Chevy Silverado Wheel Well Rust Repair - MIG welding | Body FIller (pt 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Part 2 of Chevy Silverado Wheel Well Rust Repair by MIG welding and using body filler / Bondo - a permanent rust repair. Here I will explain how to knock the welds down, fill it, shape with various tools and finally, prime the panel. If you have any ?'s feel free to ask by
commenting.
/ @lakesideautobody
After all that work,I'd have a hard time bringing back the fender back to the junk yard. One thing that I noticed in most all your videos is that after you're done with the 36 grit in leveling the filler,you hit it quick with the 80 grit and then spray primer.In the past I would spend too much with the 80 grit,then the 120 grit, only to realize I oversanded the filler,trying to avoid sand scratches. I don't know how many times I did that and I don't remember where I picked up the habit. I stepped away from bodywork and paint to do some building projects but I'm eager to get back into it trying your method of sanding filler. It took me that long to figure it out! Another great video!
It's art. You either have the feel or not. Retired now but loved it no matter how bad it came in.
It's a very rewarding occupation for sure :)
Really nice work and so nice to see a pro tackle this fender damage that is so common.
It is super common. It's because salt water and debris love to sit up in there and just rot away the metal. If there was good drainage so that water could wash away the salt and mud, it would not happen :)
This really helped today bud! I was struggling with my body filler ..... trying to get it perfect the first coat...... and a long sanding block made a huge difference..... thanks again things are going well with 1990 c2500 project
Glad I could help - let me know how it turns out. Have a good weekend :)
I sure will enjoy your weekend as well
🙏 Amen!! This was just what I needed. I honestly had many questions that were eliminated after watching your video. Thank You God Bless
You're welcome. Any suggestions or videos that you would like me to do let me know. Jerry
I learned alot of technique here knocking down high spots. Excellent video. Thank you
Thanks - "Hit it low and fill it with dough" When an old guy once told me that after he watched me play around with a dent for too long, everything got a lot easier. Don't play with high spots :)
@@LakesideAutobody I never once considered "education" a form of abuse lol the guys I learned from had no filter
You make it look so easy. Nice job.
Thanks Dave - thanks for watching :)
Wow that looks so nice!
Thanks Thad 😊
Best comedy show I've seen in years ..... laugh my ass off the whole time !
All these haters have clearly never done any actual body work...R+R is for punks, this is actual body repair...when I worked at ford as a mechanical tech, there was only one old guy in the body shop who could do this kind of work, everyone else could only do R+R...good video man, keep up the real work 🤟
You are so right. Even in a body shop there is only a percentage of guys that fix serious dents and rust repair. Thanks - have a good weekend.
What's R+R?
Thanks for this video. I'm going to be doing this same type of thing soon. I do have a question though. Why'd you cover the entire patch panel with body filler? I was thinking after tacking the panels on and pounding down the seam like you did, you'd just use enough filler to cover the seam and a bit of the surrounding are. Is that a bad practice? I've never done any body repair before so I'm just asking to clarify the "why not".
The first lesson that is needed to be learned if you want to be the best body man you can be is to never-ever be afraid to use filler. That kind of talk is for magazines, tv and internet blogs. Every really good (really good) body man is proficient with filler - the one's that leave the trade can't get filler straight thus can't make money. That being said.... the reason it is spread out so far is because you tapped the seam down which is a positive thing - you want a protective buffer such as rigid filler between your vulnerable seam and your nice paint. Once you tap the seam down it's just good practice to spread the filler out further than needed so that you make sure you get it straight in one or two apps. You don't want to apply/sand/apply/sand, etc. If you have more questions feel free to ask - you stumbled on the right channel if you want to be successful at body work :)
Hi there can I ask What gauge metal do you recommend if any when patching like this or is it just whatever feels strong enough 🙂
20-22 gauge is good for patch panels. Cars today are right in that range - maybe even thinner. 20 is around .035" and 22 is around .030"
@@LakesideAutobody thank you. 😊
Dam that looks great! You made it look so easy, it never is for me
Thanks - just have to do a million dents - then you'll be good at it
Hi Jerry, what would be the last grit on the filler and to feather the edges right before primer? 220 or finer? Thank you
You can finish your filler with 80, feather edge the paint surrounding it with 120 and then so you don't get primer on any shiny paint you can go out further with 240-320 or even scuff - again out further so no primer lands on shiny, unprepared paint.
@@LakesideAutobody OK great! Thank you so much.
Another great video,Jerry! Thank you! Did you make the palette that you mix on? If so,what is it made of? Or did you buy it somewhere? Thanks!
It's made of that dark brown hardboard - had some squares of it laying around. It's very smooth, thin, and strong - works very well for a mixing board. In the shop we just cut up boxes and made a bunch of disposable boards they worked well too.
Hi Jerry, After you sand the filler you mentioned you feather the edges with a DA. I heard you mention you used 220 grit on the surrounding metal for the primer. Do you use 220 to feather the filler too? I got the 40 grit, then 80 grit on the sanding blocks. Thanks!
You can use rough paper to make the DA sanding faster. Like: Start with 80 on the DA then move to 120 then 220 out further and maybe scuff pad (red) for anything you missed. Basically don't want to put primer on shiny paint. I actually knock down any heavy 36 grit scratches with the bondo hog and 40 or 80 then move to the DA with 80, 120, 220, etc. Make it easy on yourself - what ever gets it done fast i.e. down to fine grit that can be primed over and painted.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you! I have been watching you video "teaching" series and they are wonderful.The Red Mustang series is great!!!
Great work as always can you do a video on repairing rust holes on a frame i see so many rusty frames here in Southeast Wisconsin
Great suggestion - I'll try to do something on that - Thanks and always good to hear from you :)
Thanks for your videos.. been able to learn from you.. 👍
I'm glad to hear that. If you have any suggestions feel free to let me know what you need :)
Hi, Thanks for posting, I'm sure I will be watching this video a few more times. I have a Question, my van has several areas of rust that I need to repair, so it will probably take me several days. I will be doing the repairs outside, so my question is, is primer waterproof, and will it protect the repair from rain until I'm ready to paint? Thanks.
I use lacquer primer a lot 'cause it's very inexpensive and works well but is not waterproof. That said, I'm not afraid to leave it outside for a long time. If you leave it outside for more like a year, I would sand it off and prime again. If you are working outside and you get the job done in a few months, I wouldn't worry using any type of primer. Epoxy, urethane and polyester primers are probably better at holding out the water but I don't really think any of them are completely waterproof forever. Again don't worry about it unless you see rust coming through the primer.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you.
I see you use a metal tool to put the filler on is it better than a plastic spreader, thanks
They both really work the same (plastic or metal). The big difference is that the metal ones are very easy to clean. I have two of them at all time. One mixes and spreads the filler - when finished you scrap it clean with the other: th-cam.com/video/7LiLlGGhms4/w-d-xo.html Check it out at 1 minute and 20 seconds into the vid. Happy TG :)
Before the bondo, shouldn't you prime it or otherwise seal it to prevent rust? ie epoxy primer? Or is that only necessary if you are working on the entire car and there will be a lot of time between metal work and bondo?
No need to prime it first - bondo sticks the best when it's applied to freshly ground metal. After you finish your body filler you can prime with what ever type primer you prefer and paint - that will seal the metal and the filler
My personal opinion, I believe applying Epoxy primer before putting on the filler is good practice since filler is porous. This guy mixed and applied it really well so it's very unlikely to rust, but for total guaranteed prevention, then Epoxy, filler and then prime again before paint would definitely ensure nothing will be able to come back.
@@deanomutch6175 thats also my understanding .
Automotive Bob Ross
How do you know whether to use glass or just bondo?
It's totally your choice. I use regular filler because it sands easier and frankly I never have an issue with rust coming back. Some shops/bosses like you to use a layer of fiberglass reinforced body filler for an extra layer of protection. It can't hurt to have the first coat be the bondo glass. It's up to you. You'll hear all kinds of stuff but that's the truth really.
I prime I paint and it rusts out again by the next summer em I missing something getting tired of sanding and painting or having to replace and fix the same rockers and cab corners every year thanks
Try using a small overlap, weld solid, knock the seam down below the original surface, fill, prime, block, prime, finish sand and paint. Then make sure you have drainage so that no salt water and debris gets trapped and finally try to coat the back side if you can. If not squirt some used motor oil in there - it will creep around and ceventually coat everything in there. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html or
th-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps a bit.
Looks like no roughing up with low grit 80 is needed for second coat of filler
I do hit the un-sanded filler in the low spots with some sandpaper before another coat just to make sure it adheres well :)
I would like to know why didn't you Grind the welds down first.
There's no need. It's a waste of grinding discs, time and you're removing the strength of the weld. Grind them down a bit, grind the area, blast the seam if you want (sand blaster), tap, and fill. Hope that answers your question. :)
Planning on doing this on both rear wheel wells sometime before winter I just bought the truck. I'm going to do what you did and cut out all the rust including some that's inside the wheel well towards the back on the driver side and making my own panels to weld back on. The only difference is that my s10 came with flare covers that I presume are factory. I'm hoping to keep everything that the flares dont cover my goal is to cut out all the rust and get solid metal back in so I can draw the flares back in tight. My question is what should I use to seal the metal if the flares are covering it (not paint matching) is rocker guard better than just primer and paint? Also where could I buy a sheet of metal suitable for body panels?
You can buy 20 or 22 gauge sheet metal from places like Alro Steel and Speedy Metals. 20 gauge is approximately .035" and 22 gauge is about .030. Rustoleum might work for you - it's cheap and you can spray it or brush it - good rust preventative paint too. You could use rocker guard too or some real good undercoating. A lot of people swear by Por-15 but I think that stuff is pretty $. Let me know how your project goes. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the response I live in ontario and never heard of either of those steel places... maybe napa could get me a sheet? Also I just binged a bunch of ur vids and I see u use something called seam sealer? Is that a caulking and how nesscesary is it
@@LakesideAutobody I gotta say I've watched a lot of videos on auto body and yours are by far the best I've seen I've done slip on rockers before but it was a rough job wasnt happy with how it turned out
Did you apply filler to the inner lip you created with the snips?
Yes - after you weld up the "snips", grind the welds lightly, sand blast or wire wheel them, tap down any extremely high spots, fill and sand perfectly straight. You can then attach any trim after you paint. Jerry
Great job and thanks for the tips.
Thanks a lot. Glad you could use the info. Happy New Year.
Where did you get that hammer?
Here's one like it - MARTIN TOOLS 158G GENERAL PURPOSE PICK HAMMER The one I was using was made on a metal lathe (high school project) 😊
What welder and what settings did you run your welder on ? @lakeside autobody
It's a Miller - Millermatic 90 - wire feed is around 40, the heat is at 2 (it has 4 settings). the wire is .030 I think...
I would use .023 or .025 wire less warping because less heat and do your spot welds way closer then this I even used a flap wheel knocked the spot welds down even more no sense in waiting till bondo I use a Lincoln mp 210
Beginner here, so you knock down the welds not the actual overlap between the two pieces? Any rust issues on the inside of the panel when doing lap welds? I'm gonna try lap welds on my car since butt welds seem quite difficult to get right at first. I'm just concern it would show the line through the paint.
Just know that both methods have the same longevity - end of story. Also know that there is not one body production body shop that butt welds in Michigan (rust capital). The butt welding thing is mostly an internet myth. The floor in every new car is lap welded together and it lasts just fine taking the brunt of salt water. You do what works best for you. Just weld it up, grind the welds just a bit - don't go nuts, knock anything down that's higher than the original surface, fill, prime, paint. Check this vid out at 14:13 th-cam.com/video/aSVkIDWHrGk/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the tips. Will definately check thay video right now. 👍
Why didn’t you grind down the welds.
I believe that is effects the integrity of the weld. I'm pretty sure these guys that are grinding the welds completely flat are hitting adjacent sheet metal (thinning it) and really are not sure how thick the welds are anymore after grinding. Plus it's a huge waste of discs and time.
You are correct the welds should be ground before adding 10 GALLONS of Bondo. I see why the plan was to return the fender to the junk yard after destroying it.
One trick, don't add too much harder 🤣
True :)
Awesome!
I can not seem to find part one
Sorry, I put it in the correct playlist now - thanks. Here it is though - th-cam.com/video/QNDRjyphZJQ/w-d-xo.html - Jerry
Hack. At least your making the bondo companies tons of money off of you alone
You can replace the panel if you prefer but that's not what this channel is about. These are the time tested methods for repairing panels used in body shops (Metro Detroit Area) throughout the 60's 70's 80's 90's. Most of the skills on this channel are still really needed in shops today but they can't find guys that can do the work. Most can only replace panels. Happy Holidays - here's a good video to watch that shows the longevity of such repairs - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
Really?
I’ve watched Boyd Coddington spread filler over the WHOLE car and then block sand. Show car. Probably a $200,000.00 build.
This guy has the best vids on n you tube for solid repairs. I’ve learned quite a bit from his videos.
@@mrbigg7255 Thanks. Yea, I'm not scared of filler one bit - it's all how the surface is prepared. Never had it crack or fall out. Have a great week end. Jerry
@@mrbigg7255 Coddington used a skim coat to flatten panels. He sanded 95% of it back off. My money says Coddington had less body filler on that entire car when finished than lakeside has in this one repair.
That's a horrible repair . .wow
th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html - still perfect today - neighbors truck - will do a follow in another 2-3 years - will still be perfect. This is the way it's done - it's the way the factories do/did sail panels to roof seems for 50 years :)