I fixed my Bosch refrigerator's inverter box using your video as a guide. Thanks for pointing out the capacitors that are problematic. I used needle nose pliers to twist off the old ones, cut the leads on the new ones short, bent them at the end so they can rest on the pads, and soldered them onto the board (paying close attention to polarity). I used 33UF 50V capacitors -- $5.00 CAD at Sayall. I put everything back together, plugged in the fridge, and it works. The fridge is cooling down and the compressor is running and warm. The inverter box was going to cost me $300 with a one to two week wait. Thanks again.
Thanks for that - fixed my Bosh fridge today. Would have never thought that the capacitors break over time - 4 of the small 33uf were bad. Struggled to find a replacement inverter for the VCC3 2456 76 - so this saved me some money and frustration!
excellent. I used a hair dryer to release the adhesive. it took about 5-10 minutes and with gentle prying the board came loose. Exactly the same failure you have, the large caps were leaking and some of the smaller caps are bad. This video gave me the ability to go ahead with a repair so thanks!
Thank you so much for posting this video. My Kitchen aid fridge went out yesterday and a new inverter board was a day or two away, it was Halloween so there was no dry ice to be had to keep the freezer frozen and my wife did not want to purchase a new fridge. I just happen to have 33 micro-fared 50 volt capacitors in my garage from a previous project. I was able to change these out and get my fridge up and running in 15 minutes using the heat gun on my re-work soldering iron. Thank you again!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! We have been waiting 3 weeks for Siemens technical service to repair our refrigerator. After watching your video, I took a deep breath and got on with it. It took me some time to disassemble the case (although I was lucky that it was not attached to the PCB) but I completed the whole thing, including re-assembling the fridge in less than 3 hours, including an 8-block walk to the electronics store to buy the caps. (I used 33uf/63v/105º, similar in size to the ones you used) Again, thank you!
I followed this and replaced with throughhole capacitors 33uF 25V. Cost me $3.50 for a pack of 10. Compressor worked straight away. I have a bosch fridge.
super video, have all the capacitors on my vcc3 exchanged and everything works fine again the compressor is running again. saved me a lot of money, thank you
Great video, I need help diagnosing issue with my Kitchenaid 48" which has the same VCC3 and the main control board (W102194630). I have repaired the main control board by replacing all relays and capacitors and utilizing a new VCC3 board. The issue now is the compressor never stops and goes much below 0 where it's set at. I think this was happening before as well and thats what took the vcc3 board out. I have checked 2 thermistors and both read 2.6Kohm at 70F. I am at a loss as what to do next.
I would recommend joining 'Appliance Technician Group' on Facebook, it's a better platform for getting repair help and you can download files and post videos and pictures easily.
Hi, thanks you very much your information. I was replaced that six capacitors and unfortunately not worked. I observed two capacitors defective but not work. I measured some resistor or fuse but no problem, is there any different advice? Please help me ☺️ thanks.
@@sukruzagyapan I have also seen the IGBT transistors short as well. Any short on the board, and I put in a new inverter. Like any complex appliance part, this is one possible repair, you have to diagnose the board using your meter, ESR meter for electrolytic capacitors and DMM for shorts.
@@electronicsprojects4708 thank you very much for your information, i called service and inverter card replaced by new one but not worked again :) other card will be replaced at the top of refrigator.
Hi, thanks for your helpful video, I am repairing this board, i.e., VCC3 Inverter. I saw that just one of outputs had AC voltage for a couple of seconds, and then it turned off. I have replaced all the capacitors you mentioned in your video, and no consequences were observed. All 6 IGBTs and 3 Driver ICs are intact. I have a question, how can I repair this issue?
This is not the only reason it could fail, I have seen the two large capacitors go defective as well. This is the reason I take the board completely out, to test all the capacitors. You may have a micro defect as well.
Hi thanks for the video. My VCC3 inverter is 2456 A1 as a consequence I have only N connected on CN01 Do you know how i can test it ? cause as for you i have CN05B connected but I also have CN01B. Therefore I have 5 wires (2 from CN01B, 2 from CN05B and 1 is P wire) going to a plug and I dont know how to test this. The goal here is to test this inverter far from the compressor and simply obtain my 3 phases on CN07 connector. Thanks in advance
@@electronicsprojects4708 thanks for this answer. so maybe I should try to get back information from temperature sensor, alarm and so on... (by the way I talk about bosch gsn51aw40 freezer) as I have no more information in front of the freezer maybe it's not the VCC3 board but an other one hidden higher in the freezer. It is in fact the other reason for me to have information about CN05B and CN01B. If voltage on those two connectors is good I could suspect the hidden board but if the values are not the good one I could suspect the VCC3 board. Is it correct from your point of view ? Do you have any idea what could be value on CN01B ? (as the 2 wires are 1.5 mm² I suspect it's 220 V)
Hey there, I was wondering if you could help me with a problem. I used this video as a guide to try to troubleshoot an old fridge (GE profile, 2007 I believe) that gave out around 5-6 years ago. It seems like the compressor won’t turn on, but after some snooping it seemed the inverter board may have been the issue. Like you did, I removed the SMDs and replaced them with new capacitors, and I did have a few of them test wonky, so I thought I was on the right track. Unfortunately, when I tried putting the inverter back into the fridge, it didn’t work. I get a short, loud buzzing noise (which seems to be coming from the inverter board itself, yikes) when I plug it in, which lasts for a few seconds. Other than that, the only noticeable change is that there is a soft gurgling sound that sometimes persists for a few minutes but eventually goes quiet. This gurgling noise would happen a bit before the capacitor replacement, but it seems louder now that there are fresh caps on the inverter board. Now it seems as through the itself compressor is malfunctioning, plus my added worry I may have broken else something when I repaired the inverter. When I tested it in the fridge, the inverter was getting the right inputs (120 vac and 5 v pdc at 50-60 Hz). Still, no vibration or noise from the compressor at all. The compressor tested fine electrically, but I’m having trouble finding tips on how to determine if the compressor is seized up or if the inverter may still be malfunctioning. I also wanted to try building your tester circuit, but it seems useless when I know that the inverter is getting power fine in the fridge. Are there any ways I could try to safety jumpstart this compressor and maybe ‘knock it loose’, so to speak?
I have never found a bad compressor cause an inverter to fail. With a short on the board, that can cause other parts on the board to fail, also, I have seen many different types of failures on these boards down to ant sized smd capacitors, so helping by proxy would not do you much good. My recommendation for your situation is to replace the inverter, maybe find a good used one on EBay if you don't want to spend a lot of money.
@@electronicsprojects4708 thank you very much for your insight. I think I see your point, and that’s probably the best advice I could’ve asked for. It makes a lot of sense that the board itself might have more faults than just those capacitors. With how sensitive they are, I imagine that sequential failures between connected components can be common. I wish I had enough skill to have tested it more thoroughly, but I hoped that perhaps replacing the capacitors would get the job done. Since that wasn’t enough, I had already started to figure that the work it would take to make sure the board was working properly wasn’t worth it when I could just buy another. I’ve seen some online for between $100-$200, which is still a lot less than a new fridge. I knew going into this that if was a bad compressor, repair wouldn’t be worth it, which is why I started with the inverter. The motherboard was sending it the proper power and control signal , but the compressor still wouldn’t come on, so I’ve been holding out hope that it is the inverter and not the compressor. However, knowing a bit about how important those caps are for the functionality of this board, and that the majority of the ones I pulled off tested bad, it, I should’ve given up after replacing them didn’t work, but I thought it was worth seeing if you might have any other tricks up your sleeve. It’s alright, I knew it was a Hail Mary. I’m a total novice, but I had a bad feeling the circuit had other issues. One of the caps I replaced (one of the little 33 microFarad ones) tested at over 330 microFarads. After replacing it with a brand new 33 mF cap and testing the board, I found that the new cap I had installed was now reading at ten times it’s ratings as well. I’m certainly not well versed enough to guess at what that might mean, but I’m pretty sure erratic behavior like that in this circuit is, uh, bad. Do you have any notions on what happened there? I really appreciate your input on this, and I think I will follow your recommendation and see if a different board solves the issue. Thank you for saving me the headache of trying to wish a dead hunk of silicon back to life. I did have one more question regarding what you said, about it being unlikely that the compressor failed first, causing the inverter to fail. What about the reverse situation? If the inverter was indeed what caused the problem, can you give me any odds on if it could have subsequently damaged the compressor? Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and expertise to help me with this project! You’ve been a great resource and inspiration draw on to try to tackle this on my own. I truly would not have gotten this far without that, and this makes you awesome in my book!
Great video, just wondering on the board power connections where does the black and orange hook up to? Black is phase and orange is neutral ?did not mark them when disconnecting them and now in a bind?thanks
Just two spades at the input and you can see in the video which hooks up where. Please be more specific, cause this seams too obvious to have answered your question.
My GE refrigerator is not cooling the inverter control unit is a vcc3 1156 c1 f 58 my question is if I used other inverter white other number.or what replacement inverter.thanks
How do u do the connector to the power tha power cord do u have a video for that we have a business and like u said sometimes we just buy a new board but if we are replacing more then one I think is worth it to try fixing them By the way I just subscribed to ur channel
I soldered all the resistor connections, I used TE Connectivity / Buchanan Barrier Terminal Blocks, you can find the same type at Lowes in the electrical section and heat shrink, electrical tape and zip ties
Electronics Projects where I order this capacitor do you have a link please I will really appreciate in the past when I comment here I had same issue and I had to order a new board and that fix the issue but now I have another refrigerator with same issue and I wanna try to fix this. Board this time
I have a similar board that i will now fix because of your awesome video here, the most critical piece of info was how to get the board of the housing and what usually goes wrong with the board. I have a related question, on a replacement board i bought, its same model and spec but on internal card inspection it has 320uf caps 200v x 2 instead of the original design board having 800uf 200v x 2. Do you think its because of improved design or I have the wrong board. KA model ksss48qmb01. Thanks
They have made different designs over the years, many are interchangeable. If the signal connector has 2 wires, I use the cheap GE inverter WR49X10283, never had a problem. I have seen quite a few different failures on these. I just repaired one that had an IGBT transistor, surface mount capacitor and electrolytic capacitor fail. First time I saw that. I didn't do that repair in the field, just replaced the inverter, fixed it in my lab just to see if I could.
every inverter will be different, you have to look at the numbers on the capacitor that you are repairing. Search those numbers online to find out the manufacturer and then decode it by looking at the data sheet for the capacitors.
@@DANIELSTv every capacitor will have a datasheet, different brands have different codes that will cross reference. If you can't find the datasheet by web search, call Mouser and see if they can help you out in locating the part info.
no, you would have to probably change the 100k to 200k or something like that. You can test it out, you want between 7 and 10v p-p, if it's too high, it's not good for the circuit.
if you are talking about the 'signal' input that goes to the optocoupler, I set up a circuit to gun it off the main 120vac 60hz input line using resistors and a diode. I have a video on my channel about the circuit design.
Hi there.....i hope you can help me out to save some money. I live in Europe. I have a siemens inverter refrigerator. 2 months before it stops working and the motor does a like week 'bzzzzz' sound. I am amateur in this things but i have a hako soldering iron and a fluke 179 multimeter and i know/have a little practice about soldering/desoldering. I have test all the 33uf electrolytic capacitors. 3 of the capacitors have regular values, +/-5%. One of them have if i remember right is 584 uf and the other about 48uf. So i found this video of you and get very inspirated :D....so i ordered a few electrolytic cap on aliexpress that took 2 month to arrive. I changed the 2 "faulty" capacitors and voila....nothing happended.....same as before. The reading of the new capacitors are equal with the old original ones that i repleace (high- 584-48uf). I notice that when i measure these 2 capacitors soldered in the board values are high, but when i dessolder it and test it again off the board the values are correct. Also the 2 'old' original capacitors that i took off the board have the right values 31.8/32.5 uf. I don't know what to do, should i replace and the other 33uf capacitors or no? Please help me my friend!
I don't know how much help I can be as US appliances are different than Europe's, but to properly test electrolytic capacitors you need an ESR meter, there are a lot on Ebay, digital multi-meter does not do a good job in testing the quality of the capacitor. It's pretty useless. I have a video of an example here: th-cam.com/video/rMXIeSGQ280/w-d-xo.html
@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank you my friend for the reply and the advice, i will try to find one but the postage is difficult at this pandemic situation. Anyway....from your knowledge...why the capacitor has high values when soldered in the board and regular values when desoldered?
My inverter is embraco vcc3 EM model, it doesn’t have 6 capacitor but only have 3, I can’t find the mf33 25v in the local electronic shop but Can I replace it by mf33 50v higher voltage?
Using a diode cuts it down to 60 volts rms and the resistor act as a voltage divider circuit. Here's a link to the other video: th-cam.com/video/HKR0tagaFy0/w-d-xo.html
@@rms8576 this unit is designed specifically for a 3 phase compressor, I have run a different brand 3 phase compressor, but a 3 phase motor will probably be outside the parameters of its power handling, if it draws too much current, or too little, it will not start. There are units designed for more general 3 phase motor applications, called VFD or Variable Frequency Drive units.
@@electronicsprojects4708 I have been working with FVD for many years. I understand that such a thing is issued, for example, 50-150 hertz or the like, and is designed for a relatively small current. She is worth a cheap in China, I thought to take an experiment!)) Thank you for the information!
@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank you for fast reply! One more question. Is it possible to test the inverter with a 3 Phase Sequence Presence Rotation Tester? If so should the inverter be tested with the compressor not connected?
My vcc3 inverter in Beko fridge in making buzzing noise. Sounds like relay coil or transformer buzz. It will quiet down after couple of minutes working. Any idea what going on? Capacitors failing?
@@electronicsprojects4708 It looks the same. It is Embraco but it is 220-240V 50/60Hz input, 230V 73-150Hz output. Works on Embraco compressor. I am just wondering if that small transformer on the board can make such audible noise if the capacitors are failing? I had one of those electrolitic caps explode in my face as I was changing them. Probably was factory defective,but tested good. It went with a bang as loud as .45 shot just at my face when I pluged board into mains. I had hearing problems for half an hour. Now I just get a few meters away before testing new caps :).
You need to make sure that you pay attention to polarity. If you put in a cap backwards it can explode if it has enough voltage, I've never seen a transformer fail on one of these.@@Lycras
different inverters will have different capacitors and different brands, you will have to look at yours and figure out the micro farad and voltage rating for each capacitor.
Can you tell me what the vcc31156c1f56 numbers mean? I also have in bold lettering along the bottom 200D5948P012 I have other boards with the same vcc number but does not have the 220D number will they interchange?
I look up the part by the manufacturer part number, not what's on the sticker. There are a few different software and hardware configuration differences depending on the compressor application. If you are not sure, best to go with the original.
No, you cant bypass the inverter. The inverter provides variable voltage to the compressor; this is for savings pourposes sending more or less voltage to the compressor and therefore it consumes just the amount of electricity required to keep fridge at the desired temperatures. The only wy to bypass the inverter is changing compressor for a old kind unit, a reciprocating one who works always at the same consuming electrical rate, so is more expensive in terms of annual electricity cost.
They are not all the same, you would have to cross your capacitor numbers to the manufacturer data sheet online to see what the specs are. They use different brands for the caps.
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I fixed my Bosch refrigerator's inverter box using your video as a guide. Thanks for pointing out the capacitors that are problematic.
I used needle nose pliers to twist off the old ones, cut the leads on the new ones short, bent them at the end so they can rest on the pads, and soldered them onto the board (paying close attention to polarity). I used 33UF 50V capacitors -- $5.00 CAD at Sayall.
I put everything back together, plugged in the fridge, and it works. The fridge is cooling down and the compressor is running and warm.
The inverter box was going to cost me $300 with a one to two week wait.
Thanks again.
Thanks for that - fixed my Bosh fridge today. Would have never thought that the capacitors break over time - 4 of the small 33uf were bad. Struggled to find a replacement inverter for the VCC3 2456 76 - so this saved me some money and frustration!
Fixed my BOSCH fridge VFD. Replaced the capacitors with 47uF. It works great. I am surprised that Embraco decided to save $1 on them. Thanks...
Thanks for the vid. changed caps out and compressor is now working. Saved me a small fortune as Fridges here in Australia aren't cheap.
excellent. I used a hair dryer to release the adhesive. it took about 5-10 minutes and with gentle prying the board came loose. Exactly the same failure you have, the large caps were leaking and some of the smaller caps are bad. This video gave me the ability to go ahead with a repair so thanks!
Thank you so much for posting this video. My Kitchen aid fridge went out yesterday and a new inverter board was a day or two away, it was Halloween so there was no dry ice to be had to keep the freezer frozen and my wife did not want to purchase a new fridge. I just happen to have 33 micro-fared 50 volt capacitors in my garage from a previous project. I was able to change these out and get my fridge up and running in 15 minutes using the heat gun on my re-work soldering iron. Thank you again!
Cool, what was the other project?
@@electronicsprojects4708 I was replacing leaking capacitors in the dash on my 94 Toyota Supra Turbo.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! We have been waiting 3 weeks for Siemens technical service to repair our refrigerator. After watching your video, I took a deep breath and got on with it. It took me some time to disassemble the case (although I was lucky that it was not attached to the PCB) but I completed the whole thing, including re-assembling the fridge in less than 3 hours, including an 8-block walk to the electronics store to buy the caps. (I used 33uf/63v/105º, similar in size to the ones you used) Again, thank you!
I followed this and replaced with throughhole capacitors 33uF 25V. Cost me $3.50 for a pack of 10. Compressor worked straight away. I have a bosch fridge.
super video, have all the capacitors on my vcc3 exchanged and everything works fine again the compressor is running again. saved me a lot of money, thank you
You are welcome
Thank you i had fixed my haier refrigerator by the same method , i used 33UF 50V capacitors
Thanks alot, this vid saved me some hours of research. Fridge worked again.
Great video, I need help diagnosing issue with my Kitchenaid 48" which has the same VCC3 and the main control board (W102194630). I have repaired the main control board by replacing all relays and capacitors and utilizing a new VCC3 board. The issue now is the compressor never stops and goes much below 0 where it's set at. I think this was happening before as well and thats what took the vcc3 board out. I have checked 2 thermistors and both read 2.6Kohm at 70F. I am at a loss as what to do next.
I would recommend joining 'Appliance Technician Group' on Facebook, it's a better platform for getting repair help and you can download files and post videos and pictures easily.
Hi, thanks you very much your information. I was replaced that six capacitors and unfortunately not worked. I observed two capacitors defective but not work. I measured some resistor or fuse but no problem, is there any different advice? Please help me ☺️ thanks.
If you measure low resistance on the large capacitor (if it's bubbled and shorted) there is no repairing the board, it blows up the power supply.
@@electronicsprojects4708 no any bubbled or shorted, i was resoldered all smd and other components but not worked :(
@@sukruzagyapan I have also seen the IGBT transistors short as well. Any short on the board, and I put in a new inverter. Like any complex appliance part, this is one possible repair, you have to diagnose the board using your meter, ESR meter for electrolytic capacitors and DMM for shorts.
@@electronicsprojects4708 thank you very much for your information, i called service and inverter card replaced by new one but not worked again :) other card will be replaced at the top of refrigator.
Hi, thanks for your helpful video, I am repairing this board, i.e., VCC3 Inverter. I saw that just one of outputs had AC voltage for a couple of seconds, and then it turned off. I have replaced all the capacitors you mentioned in your video, and no consequences were observed. All 6 IGBTs and 3 Driver ICs are intact. I have a question, how can I repair this issue?
This is not the only reason it could fail, I have seen the two large capacitors go defective as well. This is the reason I take the board completely out, to test all the capacitors. You may have a micro defect as well.
Did you have the inverter connected to the compressor? Otherwise the inverter will turn itself off.
Hi thanks for the video.
My VCC3 inverter is 2456 A1 as a consequence I have only N connected on CN01
Do you know how i can test it ? cause as for you i have CN05B connected but I also have CN01B. Therefore I have 5 wires (2 from CN01B, 2 from CN05B and 1 is P wire) going to a plug and I dont know how to test this.
The goal here is to test this inverter far from the compressor and simply obtain my 3 phases on CN07 connector.
Thanks in advance
With any vcc3 inverter you cannot test these live without a compressor. It will sense that there is not load and will not turn on.
@@electronicsprojects4708 thanks for this answer. so maybe I should try to get back information from temperature sensor, alarm and so on... (by the way I talk about bosch gsn51aw40 freezer) as I have no more information in front of the freezer maybe it's not the VCC3 board but an other one hidden higher in the freezer. It is in fact the other reason for me to have information about CN05B and CN01B. If voltage on those two connectors is good I could suspect the hidden board but if the values are not the good one I could suspect the VCC3 board. Is it correct from your point of view ? Do you have any idea what could be value on CN01B ? (as the 2 wires are 1.5 mm² I suspect it's 220 V)
@@padopado399 I can't speak to your specific model, but on the one in the video, it requires 120vac and a signal voltage about 4-10 vac 50 - 150 hz.
Wow, this is not for the faint of heart!!
Hey there, I was wondering if you could help me with a problem.
I used this video as a guide to try to troubleshoot an old fridge (GE profile, 2007 I believe) that gave out around 5-6 years ago. It seems like the compressor won’t turn on, but after some snooping it seemed the inverter board may have been the issue.
Like you did, I removed the SMDs and replaced them with new capacitors, and I did have a few of them test wonky, so I thought I was on the right track.
Unfortunately, when I tried putting the inverter back into the fridge, it didn’t work. I get a short, loud buzzing noise (which seems to be coming from the inverter board itself, yikes) when I plug it in, which lasts for a few seconds.
Other than that, the only noticeable change is that there is a soft gurgling sound that sometimes persists for a few minutes but eventually goes quiet. This gurgling noise would happen a bit before the capacitor replacement, but it seems louder now that there are fresh caps on the inverter board.
Now it seems as through the itself compressor is malfunctioning, plus my added worry I may have broken else something when I repaired the inverter. When I tested it in the fridge, the inverter was getting the right inputs (120 vac and 5 v pdc at 50-60 Hz). Still, no vibration or noise from the compressor at all.
The compressor tested fine electrically, but I’m having trouble finding tips on how to determine if the compressor is seized up or if the inverter may still be malfunctioning.
I also wanted to try building your tester circuit, but it seems useless when I know that the inverter is getting power fine in the fridge. Are there any ways I could try to safety jumpstart this compressor and maybe ‘knock it loose’, so to speak?
I have never found a bad compressor cause an inverter to fail. With a short on the board, that can cause other parts on the board to fail, also, I have seen many different types of failures on these boards down to ant sized smd capacitors, so helping by proxy would not do you much good. My recommendation for your situation is to replace the inverter, maybe find a good used one on EBay if you don't want to spend a lot of money.
@@electronicsprojects4708 thank you very much for your insight. I think I see your point, and that’s probably the best advice I could’ve asked for. It makes a lot of sense that the board itself might have more faults than just those capacitors. With how sensitive they are, I imagine that sequential failures between connected components can be common. I wish I had enough skill to have tested it more thoroughly, but I hoped that perhaps replacing the capacitors would get the job done.
Since that wasn’t enough, I had already started to figure that the work it would take to make sure the board was working properly wasn’t worth it when I could just buy another. I’ve seen some online for between $100-$200, which is still a lot less than a new fridge. I knew going into this that if was a bad compressor, repair wouldn’t be worth it, which is why I started with the inverter. The motherboard was sending it the proper power and control signal , but the compressor still wouldn’t come on, so I’ve been holding out hope that it is the inverter and not the compressor.
However, knowing a bit about how important those caps are for the functionality of this board, and that the majority of the ones I pulled off tested bad, it, I should’ve given up after replacing them didn’t work, but I thought it was worth seeing if you might have any other tricks up your sleeve. It’s alright, I knew it was a Hail Mary. I’m a total novice, but I had a bad feeling the circuit had other issues.
One of the caps I replaced (one of the little 33 microFarad ones) tested at over 330 microFarads. After replacing it with a brand new 33 mF cap and testing the board, I found that the new cap I had installed was now reading at ten times it’s ratings as well. I’m certainly not well versed enough to guess at what that might mean, but I’m pretty sure erratic behavior like that in this circuit is, uh, bad. Do you have any notions on what happened there?
I really appreciate your input on this, and I think I will follow your recommendation and see if a different board solves the issue. Thank you for saving me the headache of trying to wish a dead hunk of silicon back to life.
I did have one more question regarding what you said, about it being unlikely that the compressor failed first, causing the inverter to fail. What about the reverse situation? If the inverter was indeed what caused the problem, can you give me any odds on if it could have subsequently damaged the compressor?
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and expertise to help me with this project! You’ve been a great resource and inspiration draw on to try to tackle this on my own. I truly would not have gotten this far without that, and this makes you awesome in my book!
@@preservetheunion9258 In my experience, it's one or the other, I don't ever recall having to replace both parts on a fridge.
hi great movie helps a lot, but my question is how did you make signal to the box to start the compressor
I made an inverter tester. th-cam.com/video/HKR0tagaFy0/w-d-xo.html
great vdeo! I was searching for someone who repaired a vcc board. Thanks for sharing :)
Dsd
Great video, just wondering on the board power connections where does the black and orange hook up to? Black is phase and orange is neutral ?did not mark them when disconnecting them and now in a bind?thanks
Just two spades at the input and you can see in the video which hooks up where. Please be more specific, cause this seams too obvious to have answered your question.
You can also change the and caps without heating the board in oven. Plastic case can stay on
No se necesita quitar la caja porque los capacitores son de montaje superficial
My GE refrigerator is not cooling the inverter control unit is a vcc3 1156 c1 f 58 my question is if I used other inverter white other number.or what replacement inverter.thanks
best to go with the manufacturer part number.
Thanks you just saved me a lot of money :-)
How do u do the connector to the power tha power cord do u have a video for that we have a business and like u said sometimes we just buy a new board but if we are replacing more then one I think is worth it to try fixing them
By the way I just subscribed to ur channel
I soldered all the resistor connections, I used TE Connectivity / Buchanan Barrier Terminal Blocks, you can find the same type at Lowes in the electrical section and heat shrink, electrical tape and zip ties
Electronics Projects where I order this capacitor do you have a link please I will really appreciate in the past when I comment here I had same issue and I had to order a new board and that fix the issue but now I have another refrigerator with same issue and I wanna try to fix this. Board this time
@@juansanchez-kb4ij You can buy them anywhere Mouser, Digikey, Ebay, Amazon, your capacitors may be different than the ones in my video.
Thank you sir this video is helpful to me I'm gonna solved same issue
I have a similar board that i will now fix because of your awesome video here, the most critical piece of info was how to get the board of the housing and what usually goes wrong with the board. I have a related question, on a replacement board i bought, its same model and spec but on internal card inspection it has 320uf caps 200v x 2 instead of the original design board having 800uf 200v x 2. Do you think its because of improved design or I have the wrong board. KA model ksss48qmb01. Thanks
They have made different designs over the years, many are interchangeable. If the signal connector has 2 wires, I use the cheap GE inverter WR49X10283, never had a problem. I have seen quite a few different failures on these. I just repaired one that had an IGBT transistor, surface mount capacitor and electrolytic capacitor fail. First time I saw that. I didn't do that repair in the field, just replaced the inverter, fixed it in my lab just to see if I could.
good. Would you be so kind as to provide me with the value of the ic401 component? and how do you work directly? thank you.
Hello, excellent video and hints. Do you have the circuit diagram for this inverter board? Thanks a lot!
Sorry
Sir inverter board not passing current to compressor ...MOSFET and capacitor is good but don't know which component is defected
De que valor son los capacitores? Podes poner los numeros.... Saludos desde Argentina
every inverter will be different, you have to look at the numbers on the capacitor that you are repairing. Search those numbers online to find out the manufacturer and then decode it by looking at the data sheet for the capacitors.
Can you test the capacitors if they are solder?
yes
@@electronicsprojects4708 I was thinking that would be easier to replace by using a airgun?
@@DANIELSTv I've done it both ways, but not all people have them and good ones are expensive. They work well.
@@electronicsprojects4708 I opened one and one had a 68 efk 4u6 not sure if I can swap them off with 33 25v
@@DANIELSTv every capacitor will have a datasheet, different brands have different codes that will cross reference. If you can't find the datasheet by web search, call Mouser and see if they can help you out in locating the part info.
Hi thank you for your efforts please if you can tell me how I can make tester cable like yours gad ples you
It worked for me, thanks for sharing
Excelent. Would you be so kind as to provide me with the value of the F001 component? Thank you
THANKS FROM TURKEY
Hi VCC3 2456 F4 Need some info for rework.. Failure found no positive signal. i have change IRS2304 ic but still same.
Sir iask howto connect positive and negative will connect to the 220 volt
Hello can I make this test cable for 220v in the same value of components thank you
no, you would have to probably change the 100k to 200k or something like that. You can test it out, you want between 7 and 10v p-p, if it's too high, it's not good for the circuit.
Where does the feedback voltage to the optocoupler comes from??
if you are talking about the 'signal' input that goes to the optocoupler, I set up a circuit to gun it off the main 120vac 60hz input line using resistors and a diode. I have a video on my channel about the circuit design.
How are you can you help me fix the motherboard. In my refrigerator, which is similar to that you have a respons
Hi there.....i hope you can help me out to save some money. I live in Europe. I have a siemens inverter refrigerator. 2 months before it stops working and the motor does a like week 'bzzzzz' sound. I am amateur in this things but i have a hako soldering iron and a fluke 179 multimeter and i know/have a little practice about soldering/desoldering. I have test all the 33uf electrolytic capacitors. 3 of the capacitors have regular values, +/-5%. One of them have if i remember right is 584 uf and the other about 48uf. So i found this video of you and get very inspirated :D....so i ordered a few electrolytic cap on aliexpress that took 2 month to arrive. I changed the 2 "faulty" capacitors and voila....nothing happended.....same as before. The reading of the new capacitors are equal with the old original ones that i repleace (high- 584-48uf). I notice that when i measure these 2 capacitors soldered in the board values are high, but when i dessolder it and test it again off the board the values are correct. Also the 2 'old' original capacitors that i took off the board have the right values 31.8/32.5 uf. I don't know what to do, should i replace and the other 33uf capacitors or no?
Please help me my friend!
I don't know how much help I can be as US appliances are different than Europe's, but to properly test electrolytic capacitors you need an ESR meter, there are a lot on Ebay, digital multi-meter does not do a good job in testing the quality of the capacitor. It's pretty useless. I have a video of an example here: th-cam.com/video/rMXIeSGQ280/w-d-xo.html
@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank you my friend for the reply and the advice, i will try to find one but the postage is difficult at this pandemic situation. Anyway....from your knowledge...why the capacitor has high values when soldered in the board and regular values when desoldered?
@@altinhasa8784 you are testing the capacitance in the circuit as well. Parallel capacitance go up. Parallel resistance goes down.
@@electronicsprojects4708 thank you my friend for your time and explanation. I will try it once again.
Pls am ask!embraco inverter vcc3 can I use relay to replace compressors to start working ! I went no you opinion.
no, you have to use an inverter, you can't use a start device or compressor relay.
My inverter is embraco vcc3 EM model, it doesn’t have 6 capacitor but only have 3, I can’t find the mf33 25v in the local electronic shop but Can I replace it by mf33 50v higher voltage?
yes
Hi how did u get the 2.4 volts thing? As i can see in the vid u cinnected it directly to the ac socket...
Using a diode cuts it down to 60 volts rms and the resistor act as a voltage divider circuit. Here's a link to the other video: th-cam.com/video/HKR0tagaFy0/w-d-xo.html
tengo tarjeta embraco y la falla que presenta es compresor no arranca podría ser una resistencia que está en corto
Hello friend, my board flashes 3 times the green led ... do you know the defect?
Gracias por su aportación. Mejor no mueva tanto la cámara
Very nice sir
what voltage do you have on the red and black wires on the white connector, to the control board?
Signal wire is 10vp-p, AC wire is 120vac. Wire colors will vary with manufacturer.
@@electronicsprojects4708
what do you think a similar module can control a three-phase asynchronous motor?
@@rms8576 this unit is designed specifically for a 3 phase compressor, I have run a different brand 3 phase compressor, but a 3 phase motor will probably be outside the parameters of its power handling, if it draws too much current, or too little, it will not start. There are units designed for more general 3 phase motor applications, called VFD or Variable Frequency Drive units.
@@electronicsprojects4708
I have been working with FVD for many years. I understand that such a thing is issued, for example, 50-150 hertz or the like, and is designed for a relatively small current. She is worth a cheap in China, I thought to take an experiment!)) Thank you for the information!
How did you test the caps in circuit to know the caps were bad?
I currently recommend the ESR meter by BK Precision 881 model
@@electronicsprojects4708 Thank you for fast reply!
One more question.
Is it possible to test the inverter with a 3 Phase Sequence Presence Rotation Tester?
If so should the inverter be tested with the compressor not connected?
Could you please tell me the value of resistor R002 on the back side of board? It was melted on my board so I can not deduce the real value. Thanks
I am getting 2 ohms, not sure of the wattage, though
What if you reap some of the bottom compomnets, than what lol?
be gentle in the first place, if trace comes up, you can always follow the trace and use thin gauge wire to bridge.
Good gob
My vcc3 inverter in Beko fridge in making buzzing noise. Sounds like relay coil or transformer buzz. It will quiet down after couple of minutes working. Any idea what going on? Capacitors failing?
We don't have Beko products over on this side of the pond, sorry can't help with that.
@@electronicsprojects4708 It looks the same. It is Embraco but it is 220-240V 50/60Hz input, 230V 73-150Hz output. Works on Embraco compressor. I am just wondering if that small transformer on the board can make such audible noise if the capacitors are failing?
I had one of those electrolitic caps explode in my face as I was changing them. Probably was factory defective,but tested good. It went with a bang as loud as .45 shot just at my face when I pluged board into mains. I had hearing problems for half an hour. Now I just get a few meters away before testing new caps :).
You need to make sure that you pay attention to polarity. If you put in a cap backwards it can explode if it has enough voltage, I've never seen a transformer fail on one of these.@@Lycras
Hello, Could you tell me how to connect the signal to CN05C? I want to test the inverter.
Use a square wave generator between 50 hz to 120 hz, 10 volts peak to peak. If it doesn't work in one polarity, reverse the wires.
What are the capacities of the capacitors you used
different inverters will have different capacitors and different brands, you will have to look at yours and figure out the micro farad and voltage rating for each capacitor.
Pls i make ask ! Embraco inverter vcc3 can I use relay to replace compressors to start working, pls went to no you opinion?
Thank you very much. Have a Bosch...
Can you tell me what the vcc31156c1f56 numbers mean? I also have in bold lettering along the bottom 200D5948P012 I have other boards with the same vcc number but does not have the 220D number will they interchange?
I look up the part by the manufacturer part number, not what's on the sticker. There are a few different software and hardware configuration differences depending on the compressor application. If you are not sure, best to go with the original.
Where can I find the Converters
Lütfen kabloları nasıl bağladığını göster
Would 45uf 65v work?
voltage can be higher, capacitance must be the same.
WHERE can I get capacitor tester to buy?
Search for 'ESR meter, BK Precision 881'
Is there any way to bypass this inverter ?
No, you cant bypass the inverter. The inverter provides variable voltage to the compressor; this is for savings pourposes sending more or less voltage to the compressor and therefore it consumes just the amount of electricity required to keep fridge at the desired temperatures. The only wy to bypass the inverter is changing compressor for a old kind unit, a reciprocating one who works always at the same consuming electrical rate, so is more expensive in terms of annual electricity cost.
Thanks where can I get those capacitors brother
👍👍👍
Cambiar esos capacitores me funciono el compresor no funcionaba y luego de eso si
Que capacidad pusiste los capacitores todos los cambiaste
33uf / 25v - 33uf /63v Would it be a problem if I replace it
higher voltage is ok, replacing with a lower voltage is a problem.
@@electronicsprojects4708 teşekkürler
Can u mention the value of changing capacitors bcoz I can't clearly understand your voice. Thanks
33 micro farad @ 25 volts
conector en el minuto 7:14 como se conecta
At 5:32, the capacitor shouldn’t 35v 220 mf, can you double check? My inverter have this label m3 220v.
They are not all the same, you would have to cross your capacitor numbers to the manufacturer data sheet online to see what the specs are. They use different brands for the caps.
pura repetidera de lo mismo, todos los videos de reparaciones de las tarjetas les cambian los capacitares, tengo una que se los cambie y no funciono
you're welcome