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Electronics Projects
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 2 ม.ค. 2015
วีดีโอ
Re Engineers Zoom Meeting no 5
มุมมอง 5613 ปีที่แล้ว
In this Zoom meeting I go over cleaning and maintenance of the Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun as well as how to test capacitors with the BK Precision model 881, electrolytic capacitor ESR meter, as well as general discussion.
Zoom Meeting no 4
มุมมอง 2484 ปีที่แล้ว
Re-Engineers Zoom meeting, discussion of relay diagnosing, and general technical topics.
Samsung FDBM evap heater add
มุมมอง 170K4 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is meant for professional appliance technicians. Supco heaters - 120 VAC ONLY! 15 watt heaters: www.amazon.com/Supco-SH502-Drain-Heater/dp/B004XS12XO www.amazon.com/Supco-SH201-Braided-Aluminum-Heater/dp/B008HQ7MSW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=sh201&qid=1583102172&sr=8-2 Zip Ties, (220 degree F): www.anixter.com/en_us/products/TY525MX/THOMAS-&-BETTS/Supplies/p/104701 www.amazon.com/Cable-Nylo...
WP LED BOARD REPAIR
มุมมอง 8K4 ปีที่แล้ว
WP sxs refrigerator LED board repair, in this video I show how to transfer these sensitive LED's so they can be reused from defective boards.
Samsung Washer Switch Repair
มุมมอง 8944 ปีที่แล้ว
Samsung washer, NLA board repair, broken switch actuator, bypassed switch with microswitch and new actuator.
Zoom Meeting no 2
มุมมอง 2044 ปีที่แล้ว
Discussion of the GE sxs WR55X10942 control board, soldering wires and general discussion.
Re Engineered Oven Display (no audio)
มุมมอง 1704 ปีที่แล้ว
Re-Engineered this single oven display to show 'rEngnEr', just for kicks. Microcontroller is a AtMega328p-pu.
Oscilloscope Primer 2
มุมมอง 8K4 ปีที่แล้ว
www.amazon.com/Hantek-Oscilloscope-Generator-Multimeter-Multifunction/dp/B07MT3LDB4?th=1 www.circuitspecialists.com/handheld-oscilloscope-multimeter-dso1062b.html?otaid=gpl&gclid=Cj0KCQjwre_XBRDVARIsAPf7zZi2GW9nL3zBMpU7DglnQEMBd9vvjB01zKmDbkHwlbO9VFNUI0I57wQaAmyDEALw_wcB www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-BNC-Male-to-Dual-Banana-Plug-Jack-Female-USA/232579594958?hash=item3626d2face:g:xhAAAOSw4DJYjB6N:sc:...
DMM Capacitance vs ESR Meter
มุมมอง 2K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Who will win the battle? Capacitance vs. ESR testing... Watch to find out...
Computer Monitor Repair, Dual Mosfet IC and Capacitors
มุมมอง 2K5 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video I show how to troubleshoot a dead electronic appliance, also soldering surface mount components, a dual mosfet chip, and standard electrolytic capacitors.
Re-Engineers, Zoom Meeting no 1
มุมมอง 3865 ปีที่แล้ว
Discussion of soldering, desoldering, electrolytic capacitor ESR testing, other board repair topics
GE TL Washer start switch replacement
มุมมอง 1.4K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Momentary start switch replacement for intermittent operation on a top load GE washer.
2 speed VCC3 Inverter Compressor Tester
มุมมอง 4.1K5 ปีที่แล้ว
2 speed VCC3 Inverter Compressor Tester
Help! It worked initially, then the temp started going up and up to 70!
hello what termostat can buy to control de temperature and RPM (PWM) ihave a inverter VCC3 1156 S0 A 00 ENBRACO only have a compresor and inverter unit to adapt in old equipmet can you helpme?
I see this is an old video so not sure if I will get a reply. The circuit is a 3kOhm resistor and two ptc thermistors. What value are the thermistors or do you have a part number for them?
Sounds like you are designing your own, just set a max voltage of the part at two times your max voltage and you will be ok. I don't have the p/n's for the pic in this unit, I do not know where it is to check.
I was going to make something similar at least useable, I can't quite make out the value of the resistor either, any idea what that was? Thanks, great video.
@@mbennett979 Just calculate the max wattage through the circuit, then double it for the resistor.
Hello, the choke has a side that's recessed and a side that's just flat "front" and "back". Say you forgot or didnt take note which side it was facing or its original orientation on the pcb when u pulled it out. Can it be inserted both ways? Thanks
yes, it's not polarized, so you can put it in either way.
@electronicsprojects4708 thank u! Appreciate it
It seems longer than two years ago when I did this but I haven’t had any issues . I can’t thank you enough 👍👍
Good to hear.
Is there any risk of the clips cutting the main wire in 2
not if you get the right connectors. it is meant to straddle the wire, and only cut through the insulation.
Relatedly, I measured 2 microwaves to check a magnetron replacement, the power efficiency was 64.2% and 66.7%, "microwave rating" vs wall watts (not VA). VA was about 100w more for each.
Thank you for helping us with this issue. Just wanted to ask how you know the cable is actually heating up? You mention you go into the diagnostics to turn on the defrost. How do you do that? Thanks!
It's a heater, not a cable, it uses Kanthal wire. Every fridge has its own diagnostics procedure to turn the defrost heater on, refer to the service documents from Samsung.
Microwaves at work would have arcing and melted wires to the door switches. I always cut off those spade connectors and soldered the wire directly to the switch.
I have a cheap surge protector that doesn't have a MOV but just a big cap and an IC. It shuts off for a minute when it detects an over/under-voltage (at least in theory since I haven't tested it like that.) The ones you showed don't seem to an IC. Theoretically, mine could work fine, as long as the reaction time of the IC is fast enough to avoid a spike damage it. What do you think? Here's the picture btw: i.postimg.cc/Kv8vbY9x/unnamed.jpg
Simpler is more reliable, the reaction time of MOV is very fast.
@@electronicsprojects4708 But a capacitor is also dead simple and avoids sudden voltage changes across its terminals. It doesn't have the risk of catching fire either, whereas you need a thermal fuse with a MOV.
@@DrN007 if it relies on a chip and a capacitor, that circuit is more complex. A capacitor will not do the job of a MOV in clamping voltage, and I have seen capacitors short and get burnt up like an MOV.
Cool 🤙
how do yo turn on the heater mode without the fan a nd thermosta conectedfrom the front panelbeen connected?
Hi, excellent work, I have the same MCU and the washing machine marks me error F11, serial com error, what could be ? please.
Good job
did u eat the cheese
Outstanding! I was down to about once a week hearing the fan hitting ice. Forced defrost lasts about 2 days. Horribly designed fridge in so many ways, but the icing issue is by far the worst. Putting the ice maker in the fridge was dumb too. I used sealant at the seems of that to contain the freezing air. Bravo!!
Just say the colors and sim the camera.
What kind of grease that you use to put on the gas valve to seal the leak , Thank you
silicone grease
Annoyingly enough, I cannot find a source for new replacement 26843975 start switches like you have there, and I have 900 washer/dryer units that use them...I keep the occasional fails going by filing contact points fml. If you know of a supplier that would be great! :-)
My dryer still runs after turning off if we use the 20 min cycle. We think we have narrowed it down to this cycle only. But one day it was off and suddenly I heard it come on by itself so we removed the lightbulb inside and just leave the door open all the time. It’s no big deal where the dryer is because we are the only one that sees it. My dryer & washer are both 10 yrs old now. Hated them at first but now we know how to tweak & use the cycles. I love the presetting the wash time to early and waking up to an already washed load ready for the dryer.
Thanks for the video! I was a bit baffled by the sealed PCB and you gave me hope. 2 questions: Any recommended options other than the hot knife? And since my new to me dryer is only a couple of years old and this motor start relay seems to be a common problem, can I get a better relay? Mine is 891P-1A-F-C. But why replace what seems to be a shoddy relay with a shoddy relay? Any other brands with the same specs/size that you could recommend?
I don't know of a 'better quality' relay you can put in there with the same pin configuration.
That’s what the service tech charged me $800 for a month ago?!! My god I think I got ripped off!
Really need LED replacement part number math doesn't match available LEDs wattage and forward current
I had an open LED and it's still dimly the other two units must be more circuitry
if it's only one led not working ,, you can either put a "500mw"<your number"- resister to replace it, or just jump across it"short it", and the other leds will just be a slight bit brighter with that extra 3 volts they all get to share on. that's what some of the tv repair guys do. i snagged the main board on sale, and was trying to repurpose it for somthing else, didn't realize it was a 3 part ordeal, i might have fried the leds out putting 110 volts to it without any "dummy load",, they all have little black spots on them now. opps.
Overloading the circuit is not a risk I like to take if I can help it. Doesn't look good if customer starts to hear snap crackle pop when I am fixing their appliance, lol.
By the numbers in the video can I assume that the LED is 3 volt 500 MW. Figuring 150 milliamps add 3 volts per led
To my knowledge all WP led's are 3vdc across the board.
I have a 2015 Samsung side-by-side refrigerator. The icemaker is junk. The water supply is junk. They should they shouldn’t even be on the market mad. I’m mad mad.
Hi I have a Samsung fridge and it's not cooling on top but freezer works what do u think is works it's been like this for two weeks please help
Now you can calculate the speed of light!
Thank you. Very helpfull proffessional video. Straight to the point.
So how long should this model last? We've had ours for 12 years and the problem with the ice build up under the drawer is just starting. Should I buy a new Fridge or try the fix in the video?
It's probably towards the end of life, maybe you can get it to 15 or 16 years, odds are against any longer than that. New fridges are worse though.
This is extremely stupid and not a permanent fix. The ice comes from either a shorted defrost sensor, faulty heater, stuck relay, clogged drain or hot air infiltration. Most common cause is hot air entering through the doors/french assembly not sealing properly or cracks in the liner. This heater will cause the liner to crack and additional hot air infiltration will happen exacerbating the issue. You're not smarter than the Samsung engineers. I am a certified Samsung technician.
This modification has been done thousands of times my techs, and is very safe. I have done it for my customers for about 4 years with no issues. I guessed you worked for Samsung by your comment, way to shill for one of the worst manufacturers of refrigerators. The only ones sticking up for the company are the ones getting paid to do so.
@@electronicsprojects4708 just because something works at the moment doesn’t make it the right fix. My explanation for why this heater is stupid as hell is in my previous post. It’s a band aid fix when there are real fixes to the issue you just clearly don’t know appliances well enough to figure out the true fix.
It's not a band aid fix when it works for years with no further problems. There are many techs that I get feedback from that say they tried everything, including the Samsung bulletins, and it's the only thing that worked. Like I said, the fact that you work for Samsung and get paid by them disqualifies your opinion as biased. Especially for the fact that you have no specifics, and clearly disregard the facts that I have stated. Just playing politics.
@@electronicsprojects4708 it’s a band aid fix dumb ass I’ve had to tear these dumb ass heaters out of fridges that caused liner cracks and ruined the fridge
Thanks.
Does it need to be zeroed around the conductor or can you zero it outside of the conductor and then clamp it around?
I clamp first, then zero out.
Do all numbers have same function on all dryer motors
no
Bro you're such a god for the diagram. Do you know if the wires that came out the ACDC board go all the way to the other boards? I'm asking cause I made a LED board since I live out the states and I was wondering if I put the 12v to the wires that goes to the freezer board so the freezer board light up.
yes, you could do that. Sorry for the late response. They are like Christmas tree lights. You wouldn't have any protection, if you did that though, for short circuit.
Lütfen kabloları nasıl bağladığını göster
Thank you very much for this explanation. In my case only SMD LEDs are bad. Do you know the type of the LEDs. Where to order them? Thank you for your help
Sorry, I have not been able to identify the exact p/n for the LED. I was just using LED's from junk boards I had, best way.
Every time it heats up all I can smell is burnt plastic. I have taken the cover off and it's burnt the plastic around the fan and the foam on the back of the cover. What do yo8 recommend for this?
What was the part number you used for the add on heater. I only recommend SH201 or SH502 Supco heater. You won't get any smell with these. If you use others, they may be too high wattage.
I have a leaking main and secondary coil. Can I just replace those seals? Where does one find them? Hate to spend 200 on a 22 year old machine
The seals don't come separate to my knowledge.
do you know the model # to order just the led's ?
I have only been using LED's of junk board because WP doesn't provide the part number for the LED's and getting the hue right is the issue. So, no.
Do you find that the rd defrost mode is helpful for a RF261 fridge with ice buildup behind the panel in the fridge?
If you want to do that periodically, that can be a solution. Depends on how bad the frost is building up.
@@electronicsprojects4708 Thanks for the reply. Even after all the fixes my fridge wouldn't stop ice build up so we replaced it.
@@leka_the_prophet It is not common, but if you have a sealed system failure, like an inefficient compressor or freon restriction, it can cause too much frost to build up in a short amount of time and even the add on heater won't work. This is a small minority, I have only seen it maybe 2 times in the last 4 years of performing this mod. Hope you didn't replace it with a Samsung, lol.
You can use soldering braid to remove execess solder fro areas where it isnt supposed to on the circuit board?
You didnt reinstall the repaired and test it to make sure it works?
Thank you for your video. I have this issue with my Samsung French Door (code: RF24FSEDBSR). I am based in the UK. (1) Will this kit work in the UK (where the standard voltage is higher than the US - 230V v 120V)? (2) Has any in the UK been able to find a technician willing to fit a part which is not "Samsung approved" to their fridge? Those I have spoken to are worried about the liability and I am struggling to find anyone; (3) Has Samsung produced its own kit which would make it easier for me to persuade a technician to fix the part? If I cannot find anyone i will have a go myself. The refusal of SAMSUNG to admit that their products have this inherent design flaw and/or to correct it is bewildering. For around a decade, it has been public knowledge and, despite a class action law suit being brought in the USA, they continue to sell fridges with the same issue. I will never buy another SAMSUNG product of any kind ever again.
Sorry for the late response, YT stopped giving notifications for comments. The Supco part numbers provided only work for US, 120vac, wattage is too high and heater will probably just fail very quickly and get so hot, it may cause damage to the back panel, if used in a 240v setting. I am not familiar with any Samsung retrofit of this type. Because of the wattage limitations set my the federal government, they would not be able to just add components like this without getting reapproved which probably would not happen.
Fixed my BOSCH fridge VFD. Replaced the capacitors with 47uF. It works great. I am surprised that Embraco decided to save $1 on them. Thanks...
Hi great info , I am having a issue with my dryer it will turn on run but shut off like it's getting to.hot,, there is also a gas smell when opening the dryer door.. any ideas
If the drum just stops turning mid cycle, the motor typically overheats, then you have to wait and after 5 minutes or so, you can restart it. For a gas smell, if the gas valve is leaking, you can get a gas smell when the dryer is not working. Both are pretty expensive issues.
I've had to do this twice now on my Bosch fridge. I have a very small soldering iron and have experienced the problems of removing the small caps without the specialist tools .i did lift a couple of pads but not fatally . I found that using desoldering braid in small steps made it easier but without doubt the easiest way to remove the caps is to carefully twist them off . I read @steveliddycoat3111 's post and it gave me the courage to try it so thanks to him. Being careful not to pull up at all a couple twists less than 30 degrees each way and the pins break off either at the pad or the cap with no damage whatsoever to the pads. My inverter is 10+ years old so I cant guarantee the same results on newer components but this saves a huge amount of aggro. I suspect this is a commonplace technique for those in the industry so if there's anyone out there who does this on a regular basis please chime in.
This is not for dyi you are dealing with gas it's always better to change gas valve if you know and smart only Gas is dangerous if it's leaking
My videos are for technicians. If you have a fear of gas, I recommend leaving it to the pro's.
Installed this several weeks ago and the ice build up returned. I forced the defrost mode and it doesn't warm up at all. Any ideas on what's causing that?
If the defrost heater is working, but the new add on heater is not working, most likely the connectors are not tight.
Why does my dryer shut down after about 2 minutes of running? What should I check first?