Fix Any French-Door Refrigerator That’s Not Cooling How To Replace Inverter Controller Embraco VCC3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2019
- A good working refrigerator is vital for the home. In this Short video I tell a story how I troubleshoot and diagnosis a failed motor compressor inverter controller and what to look for on a good working refrigerator. I hope you enjoy.. Thanks for watching! And if you haven't yet subscribed, DO IT!! Also hit the bell for awesome notifications.
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How To Fix A GE Profile Refrigerator Thats Not Cooling Troubleshoot Compressor/Inverter PFE29PSDASS
How To Fix A GE Profile Refrigerator That’s Not Cooling Troubleshoot & Replace Failed Inverter Board
#inverterboard #troubleshooting #repair
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Thank you all for checking out the video working towards getting your refrigerator back up and running. As this video will quickly get you going after diagnosing a failed inverter controller. Keep in mind that the motor that the controller connects to can also fail mechanically, the motors windings can fail for high resistance shorts, and insulation breakdown. testing for these types of failures are not possible with a multi meter. You would need a “Meggar” that specifically tests for these types of failures. We don’t go this far into this type of testing is because most people don’t have access to a meggar. Mechanically pistons can lock up on cylinder walls as wells as bearings can fail on moving parts. All this can and will effect the way the compressor runs. Most of the time your inverter will go over heat and fail. Simply put if you have replaced the inverter and it still doesn’t start the motor it is possible that compressor has totally failed. Thanks for watching 🍻
Good points for sure, thanks. In my experience, with access to top of the line O-scopes I’ve only had to replace (actually re-wind) one electric motor and it was after decades of operation in a harsh environment. The fridge is only four years old and not even in a garage environment, plus the motor had continuity across all three plugs so I’m certain it’s the electronics which are made cheaper and cheaper each year in the PRC. Thanks again for an excellent video and follow up.
Thanks for the video. I got my fridge running again. I didn't have time to order the inverter off ebay so I had to get one from an appliance parts shop and I had to pay about $220 for it. They didn't have an Embraco inverter but they did have a GE one which had the same specs, mounts the same etc. I decided to buy it and it worked out fine. One of the early signs the inverter was starting to fail was the ice maker was struggling to produce ice for the last couple months.
Very cool, thanks for watching 🍻
Great video!great video! I did the test on the refrigerator and that indicated the compressor was good! Or at least that it wasn't fried. However when I changed out the inverter or control box decompressor made hardly any noise at all. I couldn't even really tell it was running. But I did feel it vibrating a little bit so that gave me some reassurance. Yours in the video it sounds very obvious that the compressor is running. On mine you could only hear the fan running for the most part. On these refrigerators they I have a diagnostic mode, unfortunately one of my refrigerator buttons was not working for the diagnostic mode so I couldn't diagnose it or pull codes. But I took a chance and prayed this was to fix! Thankfully it was and the refrigerator and freezer are both functioning again we had been on a trip and all of our food in the freezer and refrigerator went bad unfortunately, it looked like there was a power outage at one point because the stove clock with flashing like it does when the power goes out, so I don't know if maybe there was a lightning bolt and it fried the control box or what happened, but at least it's working! Thanks!
Your video along with another helped me on my fridge. Ready to throw in the towel but ordered the $100 version of the board.
Up and running .
Thanks!
THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! I just cancelled my new fridge order ($$$$$) all in thanks to this video that helped show me exactly how to troubleshoot and fix my fridge issue- all for just a little $$. I am so grateful!
Thank you for your outstanding help videos. I was able to diagnose my fridge, by following your instructions. You saved me hundreds of dollars, by not calling a repair shop. I was able to fix my fridge with a $120 part. THANKS!!!
@Russ Dupper Nice, 💥 I appreciate it , thanks for watching
Fixed the refrigerator following your testing. Awesome. The controller cost $150 because we needed it right away on a Saturday, and got the last one in stock 15 minutes before the store closed. Excellent detailing on the explanations, thank you, thank you for that. The thumbs down you got must be from people that are jealous of what you have done that they can't do as well.
Very glad to see this all worked out for you and the awesome feedback. Thank you for watching! I appreciate it 🍻
This video helped me fixed my GE Profile by doing exactly what is shown. I thank you so much for saving me hundreds of dollars. For a guy being not so hands-on, I think even my wife is impressed. Three days of buying ice until the new inverter arrived; Not so bad. Thanks again.
@Eddy Pena 💥 nice , thanks for watching
Great and detailed step by step instruction. Spent $140 and now have a working fridge and freezer again!
That’s really cool, I’m glad this video helped and your back up and going ! Thanks for watching! Cheers
Excellent video! I fixed the fridge and everyone is happy again! Thanks!
💥 Thanks for watching
Good job, young man! UEI makes a VOM that measures frequently in Hz. I never needed it until these new compressors came out
Mine did same after a power outage. When power was restored, there may have been a surge that fried the inverter. Followed your steps but only found 2.5 vdc on the small connector. I made a judgement call and ordered the inverter. Cost $180 but it fixed the problem. Thanks Brother!
Jeffery Sharp 💥 nice, Happy to help and that it worked out for you! , the voltage will vary based on temperature. I appreciate it ! Cheers
Changing the inverter worked! Now I don't have to buy a new fridge or pay a service guy a bunch of money. Thanks man! I owe you one!
I’m glad it worked out buddy, thanks for watching I appreciate it 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Yes. Of course. And thank you man. But now to my next question. This ge profile fridge is 9 years old. How much more life do you think the compressor has in it? I just touched it and I noticed it gets pretty damn hot. And I searched it up and they said life expectancy of refrigerator compressors is around 10 years. Which has me worried.
Just did a repair following your procedure. Worked perfectly. Thank you.
Thanks for watching buddy i appreciate it 🍻
Thank you for your efforts. I hope they give you a longer weak end for more videos.
Thank you 🙏 🍻
Excellent video! You are helping me diagnose the issue and i really need the help. On my GE French door I have all fans running, the fridge is not cooling, but the freezer is cooling. maybe a thermo sensor top center?
GREAT Video, very well explained. Helped me troubleshoot and fix my 13yr old Profile GE refrigerator, saving me time and money. I think my board got fried because of a severe thunder/lighting storm in my area. Large oak tree of neighbor across the street got hit as well. So like most electrical components in these type of devices they are sensitive to power surges. Thanks again keep up the good work.
Get a good surge protector, thanks for watching 🍻
I just want to say thank you for this! Saved me quite a bit.
Thank you for watching 🍻
Great video. I've seen so many on the topic in the last two days and this one has the most valuable information. My issue actually seems to be that the evaporator fan was not runnning. It's frustrating because I can't be sure that is what it is because I didn't realize it shuts off when you open the door. So I dug into the back of the freezer to get to it and it was not moving because the switch for the freezer drawer was open but I had already spun the fan by hand before pressing the button which caused it to turn on. I feel like the fan may have just been stuck for some reason because the prior two days both compartments would not cool more than just a little, maybe 40 degrees as a guess. Now after confiriming the fan is runnning everything seems to be as cold as it should be.
I'm just not sure if the inverter could be an intermittent problem.
Awesome video man. Explained everything were i can understandstans.
Thanks so much👍
Thank you for the video. Followed your instructions here and fixed my GE fridge.
Welcome to the channel 🍻
Thanks man justed fixed my fridge with your vid !
hello great vieo well done. my ge French refrigerator freezer not working
Great step-by-step instructions.
Nice , I appreciate it. Cheers
Super straight forward. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for watching 🍻
Thank you so much for this detailed video. Worked out great. Keep up the good work 🤘
Great video! I’m a novice at repair - how did you detach the ground wire from the compressor? Do you just pull on it with pliers? Didn’t want to damage it with too much force if there is a proper way to remove it. Thanks!
Great video, best ive found for diagnosing and changing part. Do have question about inverter part numbers ... can find several options with same input and output specs, but the numbers after the Vcc3 1156 ________ differ ... does this matter, as only finding one with exact same numbers (01 F 04) on ebay and it is used part. Thanks in advance for your time
Thank you so much for this video!
Hello sir , that was a lot of help, was wondering if u could tell me where the green/yellow ground goes to?
Jaime Sustaita hi there, glad to help! Should go from controller to the side of compressors metal housing! Cheers!
Excellent video, thank you!
Well forgot to ask this very important question, the ac wire the one that goes to the outlet is it suppose to have a green wire coming out of it close to compressor?
This can be also applicable to the Frigidaire refrigerator as well, I fixed this same way. my fridge had the same Embarco condenser and Circuit board. One of the big capacitors got bigger(which means bad). I wish I would have seen this video before.
And I was afraid of buying from Ebay(due couple of bad experiences) I bought from Amazon one of the OEM sellers. It cost me ~$300
Great content. How did you know the exact control cables to test? How did you know the exact cable to test for AC voltage? Did you read the schematic to know the exact wires to test?
Thank you, says on the controller!! Cheers
Hello, thanks you very much for this video. I have a question though. I high voltage isn’t producing any voltage at all… does that mean my board is messed up?
Note: When measuring signal voltage (from themain control board) at the inverter, a reading of 4-6VDC will be measured with all wires connected. If theinverter wiring is disconnected, the board output willmeasure between 10-12 VDC GE Profile PGCS1RKZ
Very nice 👌 and instructive! 10 🌟 u just fixed my refrigerator
Thanks for watching 🍻
Great video, really. Thanks. I suspect the same issue with my Haier fridge, but I can't find the same inverter as I have. On mine the Output range is 53 to 120 Hz, with 2.1A. I can find inverters with a range from 40 to 150Hz, 2.1A, for example, but not exactly mine. What does this range mean, do you know? How did you figure out the compatibility between parts in your case?
M. Kessels the HZ specs are based on Output motor speeds, you want to directly match these up when finding a replacement controller . That controller could work but can possibly compromise your compressors design. In theory that controller could run your motor faster hence more HZ . Hope this helps , thank
Gracias
Thank you, this video solved our issue! However, now my touch pad doesn't work. The control buttons work but not the touch screen. I don't suppose you have a solution for this? Thanks!
Kathy Sarno nice , thanks for watching, I would try and do a hard reset on the refrigerator see if that helps , if not it’s very possible your screens digitizer has failed and would need to be replaced! But I would reference the manual for that machine to see if maybe something is turned off or the screen has been manually disabled, good luck thanks!
I like your video . I'm having problems with my LG French door that 4 years old .Linear Compressor checks out good with OHM check across one leg and 0 on other two Continuity Negative . Could you tell me what the recommended refrigerant PSI should be .
I had d same test result as yours on the inverter but also I replaced capacitor n relay on control board & when I turn it on it will beeping continuously & led doesn't power up...any input?
I would like to see a video about repairing the inverter controller pc board.
@Ken Layton 💥 nice, thanks for watching! Cheers
We have a Kitchen Aid Superbo that has the fans running and we hear what sounds like the compressor trying to turn on but doesn’t. Does that point to the compressor itself as the control board seems to be sending the signal to turn on. It cycles like this every 5 minutes or so. The compressor hums like it wants to run but doesn’t and stops about 3-5 seconds after trying to start. Any ideas?
Thanks for a wonderful video!
Excellent video. I assumed it was the motherboard having been responsible for the sonar system my entire Navy ship was built around, but it was nice not having to look at schematics to see what AC and DC voltages I was looking for to verify the problem instead of “bubblegum” card swapping, as we used to call bad tech work. They’re now $122 on eBay and almost $300 on Amazon…thanks to Bidenomics….
Thank you 🙏 🍻
Thx for sharing.
Great video.... The water intake line broke and water sprayed awhile before I was able to shut off water. I replaced water hose and next day compressor stopped working. Would water short inverter? If so would harness also be damaged?
Oh man that’s a bummer, yes water can short the controller if it got in there, I would inspect all the cabling and if the compressor motor is not running follow the troubleshooting steps I provide in the video to replace the controller, if there are burns or melted wires yes replace! Good luck ! Cheers
Algien me puede decir si la marca board en refrigerador es buena calidad gracias.
Great video thanks for your help
I’m good on the 120 v but only reading 2.8-2.9 DC
Change cabinet temperature, then check voltage again. Doesn’t the Voltage change? Motor start?
Thank you for this great video man. I tested the motor like you did to make sure that wasn’t the problem and it showed good so I went ahead and bought the inverter and swapped it out. Only difference with the one I was provided by the parts store( which they said Frigidaire changed to that part number) is that the new one has two grounds as opposed to the original which only had one. My motor didn’t have anywhere to connect that second shorter ground so I just grounded it to the bottom surface of the fridge? Do you think that will be a problem?
as long as your sure it’s a ground wire you should ok with that. Thanks for watching 🍻
Great Video:) I was wondering if this is a common issue with these fridges? We just replaced the Main control board on our GE Profile PFSS5RKZHSS Fridge 4 months ago, and it stopped working recently, now the inverter board is pretty much doing what your video described. So do we replace it for $200, or buy a new fridge..........$2000
I never seen one of those before.
Thanks for the video! My inverter was shot. Replaced it and the compressor is now working! The freezer is cooling nicely however the refrigerator isn’t. I replaced the evaporator fan as well. Any ideas??
Make sure the fans in the refrigerator are working as well
Thanks I changed the inverter board like you said. Compressor is now running. Does the compressor ever shut off. Seems to be running alot
Eventually it will once the cabinet has reached operating temperatures that you set. Ambients can also affect this! Thanks for watching 🍻
Oh, and i got 12V DC from the main control board. My fridge was off for a couple weeks, so its warm.
Great, very informative. Extremely helpful. 👍👍👍✅✅✅
🍻
My freezer is working but the main compartment is not cooling staying at 63F. I melted the ice by the evaporator coils and noticed the fan not working. I also noticed the crisper fan not working. Once fans are disconnected inside the fridge, which pins do I place my tester leads to see if fans are receiving power? Just want to see if I need to order something other than fans.
💥 nice, thanks for watching, i want to say the blue and red wires are the one, but this can be different, the crisper fan I never bothered to replace, but definitely need to replace the other one. Here is the link for fan replacement
GE Profile French-Door Refrigerator That Has Warm Door Seals How to Replace Condenser Fan WR60X10358
th-cam.com/video/KALUbfkJXW0/w-d-xo.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD thank for quick response! I will order today.
I have a Viking 48' in wall, I have the same problem, the compressor won't start, will follow your procedures to check voltage and resistances first. BTW, the price of VCC3 on ebay raised to $100 now.
💥 nice 👍🏼 thanks for watching! That’s a bummer they have gone up in price, seems like everything is going way up these days . Interesting times to say the least thanks for sharing that and Hope you can get your refrigerator going soon! Cheers 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Found there's no 120V to inverter. I think I need change the control board.
@@dmtycn sounds like something upstream for sure ! Double check that you have good input voltage from the temperature sensors from inside the fridge to the board! And that you have 120vac going into the board , possibly a component needs replacing on the board! Also if you can, think about putting an inline surge suppressor for the main plug on the wall, they are inexpensive and helps a lot with the sensitive electrical components in the fridge. Just want to get one that can handle heavy loads ! Thanks for sharing
electricianapprenticehq.com/best-surge-protector-for-refrigerator/
great video.cfe29tsdcss is warm, meat drawer freezing then puddle water under the drawer, took out shelves build-up of ice vents. eventually thawed and then frig stopped working and freezer. replaced evaporator fan back wall of the frig, replaced damper fan ( not spinning, door lever sounds like trying to move but daper fan stops spinning when I change temp on the meat drawer. The condensor fan is working blowing cold air. cage back of frig has been cleaned. The freezer fan not working . Question is the evaporator fan in the freezer different than the evaporator fan in the fresh section back wall of the frig? this one is black with the boot and the freezer fan is White. 2013nre had serviced 2018 for evaporator fan and heater. time for a new frig?
Both fans are very similar fridge and freezer, you definitely want them all to be working! The smaller drawer fan is not a big deal to have on , it can be disconnected! Thanks for watching I appreciate it
Thanks! I couldn't get the screw which holds the inverter to the compressor back in - it didn't line up - but it is hanging on the ledge fine. Fridge is working again though. You think this will be okay, or should I figure out how to secure it? Zip tie?
There’s a ledge to rest on Try and secure it if you can , just make sure you have all the power and ground connected should be ok. Thanks for watching 🍻
Does the inverter on a GE Arctica control the freezer evaporator fan speed too? My freezer fan is turn slow hard to make ice
not totally sure on that one , but typically not! There are sensors in the fridge that contribute to the main control boards final decision, it takes all those signals and controls the inverter board, the fan and compressor motor speeds.
Hope this helps thanks for watching
At 2:30, "And with the machine plugged in", you say we've got to locate the "signal control cable"...these ones, the RED and YELLOW? I see the red but the other wire looks white (with purple stripe) to me. Am I missing something? I guess it's not the color that's as important as what they plug in to? Still pretty good video. I learned a lot.
Yes white and purple And solid red in this case! You are the First to mention this! , thank you for watching!
My compressor wasn't getting line voltage. I checked the input side of the relay on the control board and got 12vdc every time. Had line voltage to the switched input side. Voltage out was erratic and well below line. Found the relay part number and I ordered one from Mouser. Installed it and the fridge works fine. Symptom was it wouldn't cool all the time.
Awesome , thanks for sharing 🍻
Update- fridge has been working properly since the repair. No problems whatsoever.
I am measuring 120VAC and on the signal wires it bounces back and forth between 3.9 and 4.9 VDC. The refrigerator was unplugged for a while so it is very warm. Does that VDC signal make sense or is the inverter likely bad? Also, I did not have this problem until after changing the evap fan. I left the fridge unplugged for a couple of days waiting for the evap fan to come in. After installing the fan, now the compressor won’t start.
Hello, and thank you for your video.
I have a question with the same model, my freezer is working well but the fridge is not (freezer is -16 degree C (as i set it) while fridge actual is 19 degree C while I set it on the recommended temp as 3 degree c) so the freezer is cooling well but the fridge is not...
I cleaned the dust below around the condenser fan but that didn't help
Any recommendation?
👍🏼 nice, while the refrigerator is running , there are two vents on the back wall, (fridge side and not freezer side) you may not be able to feel the air coming from the vent back there, but cold air should coming out of those vents. There is another fan back there! (I only show you the freezer evap fan working in this video) I usually tape a small piece of thread right above that vent; if the thread is moving that usually indicates a good working fan without taking apart the back panels to get to the fan! Also a temperature sensing gun can be helpful and used to find difference in temperature at this vent! If that fan is not working it could be bad or something is telling it to not turn on! I would first see if the fan is on or off and test for a voltage present on the leads. I show how to do this on my other video for fan replacement! Same senerios, but instead we are now looking at the evap fan not condenser fan for the refrigerator not the freezer ! th-cam.com/video/KALUbfkJXW0/w-d-xo.html
@@ATEMOFFROAD MANY WP built refrigerators (also Samsung) are leaking at the brazed joints of an evaporator - usually the fresh food side. WP had been installing stainless steel evaporator. Some ate rusting due to the water bottle dripping sweat down onto the evaporator: Who was the DOPE who thought mounting the water reservoir above a steel evaporator? SMH! Copper and stainless expand and contract from temperature changes at VERY different rates, guaranteeing the solder joints will leak over time. Samsungs just aren't assembled well.
Great video
Thanks for watching I appreciate it
Great finding your site. Ihave a ge profile that mice had urinated on high side tubing and corroded it near divider that holds condenser fan.gas leaked out damaged compressor. I replaced damaged line brazing with nitrogen flow thru. Blew out system with Nitrogen several times. Installed new comp exact model ohmed at 6.5 replaced inverter and motherboard.checked ohms on temp sensors acording to repair manual for that model.but manual calls for 10 ohm resistence on compressor. Comp starts runs for about an hour shuts off and will not restart.i used my recycler compressor in parallel to installed comp with frige unplugged and it continued to run at normal pressures which to me indicates no blockage in system. Any suggestions what to check next greatly appreciated. Do u have patrion set up for rewards. Thanks
This is a great video. I have a question. My full part number is VCC31156C1F58. I am not finding this exact part number. I do find VCC3 1156 K9F76. The difference I see is in the output of 3.3a on mine and 2.1a on the one I'm finding.
Will the 2.1a inverter work for me?
No that will be too small
Hello, I am trying to find a control panel for PFSF6PKXABB GE Profile fridge. I have tried GE and ebay doesn't have the right one any suggestions.
trying to find an inverter for my Viking 48". on your original inverter VCC3 1156 C1 F 50 and your replacement is VCC3 1156 06 F 13 ... noticed the numbers at the end are not the same.. are all boards inside the housing the same if it has the VCC3 1156 and the housings and plug connectors are different based on models and brands of refrigerators like GE and Viking and how it's mounted? Basically I want to know if I can buy a new inverter and swap out the board inside with my housing and old connectors. I know it has hard mounting gunk to hold it and warming it releases it.
I can't find an inverter that is new for a decent price with my mounting positions on the housing. As long as the input and output on the inverter is the same am I going to run into problems buying an inverter with a different mounting box housing and wire connectors that I can change out?
LINDA NOWICK Hi there, it’s really at your decision if you want to try it or not, usually if all the Inputs and outputs are exactly the same values . it should work regardless of plugs type On that note I will always say OEM is the way to go. What is your food worth? What is your time worth? Maybe weighing these out can help you decide. Good luck and cheers
@@ATEMOFFROAD Hey thank you, that's the answer I needed, very kool. cheers!
I don't understand this,I have a MayTag refrigerator mzd2766gew and at first it was the clicking sound and I changed the starter relay and overload and the refrigerator worked just so fine and I later disconnected the unit from the power supply to to put it in it's permanent position and when I eventually did,the unit refused to run it just starts and stops.What can possibly be the problem with this refrigerator.
Hello sir, what happens if I’m not getting no voltage from the low , You think it might be the control board?
Eduardo Mendez yes should probably start working up stream from there
I have this exact model. Freezer is working fine. Lower meat/cheese drawer also fine. Main compartment not cooling. Any thoughts? TIA!
Check the evap Fan and controller in the back the same one I showed you in the freezer there’s one in the refrigerator part too.
@@ATEMOFFROAD Great video! I have the same model and like the poster said, I have the same problem, the freezer got nice and cold but the refrigerator would not get below 67 after 48hrs of running with nothing in the fridge after replacing the controller. The evaporator fan in the freezer is also running along with the fan in the refrigerator. I took the drawers out of the fridge and noticed that the evaporator coils in the fridge were frozen over. I unplugged the fridge and put a blow dryer in there to melt the ice. Fired it back up, will see if it cools now.....
I have the same model refrigerator same issue . I replaced the evaporator fan in the main frig compartment myself took about a half an hour. Saved me $300.00!
@@ATEMOFFROAD Evap fan is in the front. Used steam cleaner to melt ice, installed new fan. Voila.
Stephen Silberfarb yes I meant in the fridge but behind the plastic in the back , Happy you got it fixed ! Cheers
I have this exact fridge and I ordered the controller, but on the controller I got the output is 230v-53 to 133hz instead of 150hz. Can I use it or should I send it back for the 150hz?
It will work , but I would suggest to get the correct controller replacement for your unit! Thanks for watching
Hi my fridge died and was checking voltage from inverter to board and back as AC was showing correctly the DC was showing as - voltage there was 3 wire red blue and green checked on red-red black-blue multimeter-wire and was showing minus and ideas?
I got a new inverter but it did not fix it. Tested compressor like you did and it was fine on all 3 points. What else could the issue be? Fridge is cooling a little and freezer doesn't freeze or keep anything cold. Please help
Could be that your compressor is weak. Or not running, confirm that the compressor is running! If not, check each phase to ground for shorts with meter. If you have shorts to ground” (not phase to phase) motor is bad. If your meter tests no shorts to “ground” or phase to phase, it’s still possible that the motor is bad. You need a special tool for this test. Normally this tool is used by professionals. The tool is called a meggar. My serious recommendation is that if you haven’t fixed it yet it may be worth calling a professional to troubleshoot the problem and fix. This tool tests for high resistance shorts and insulation breakdown in the motor! Good luck and thanks for watching🍻
Good job! a great instructional video. But i have a harder question, that no one has been able to answer yet. Working on a GE Side by side, PSPS9PGZBCSS with an inverter compressor . My control (mother) board is putting out 11 volts, not the recommended 4 to 6 volts to the inverter. Everything else checks out ok, compressor and 120acv. What does this mean? I am very hesitant to put in a new inverter board thinking the 11 volts may destroy it.. or is 11 volts ok and due to the fridge/freezer being so warm?
What is the dc input voltage range on your board saying?
@@ATEMOFFROAD I checked the voltage at the J15 plug on the control board going to the inverter, 11 volts. The same at the other plug end going into the inverter... is that what you are asking?
@@ATEMOFFROAD I guess I figure the input is supposed to be between 4 -6 volts like i have seen stated in videos.. are you saying that the 11 volts could be normal if that is the input range? where and how to I find that range for this unit?
@@ricks3409 yes that’s what I’m saying. you will find those values printed on the board itself. Also keep in mind that the temperature sensors in the refrigerator are proportional to the output voltage values. the hotter the cabinet more voltage, cooler the cabinet less voltage or inversely! Definitely check your temp input sensors going into the board , if those are good and the inverter is turning the compressor on, I suspect something would be going on in your mother board. Does the inverter controller not turn the compressor on? But again I’m not there to really know anything!
@@ATEMOFFROAD the compressor is not running, but everything else seems to be ok. I will check the board for input voltages tomorrow (i'm doing this for a friend on hard times). I also wondered if the temp sensors inside the cabinet were telling the control board to run the compressor faster, hence the 11 volts to the inverter?? I am not sure how to test the temp sensors going into the 'mutha' board (lol). I'll look for video on that unless you could supply a link to one, I am sure it is a simple check. I greatly appreciate your help, and if anything to be able to talk about figuring it out.. like I said , it is a hard question that I can't find n answer for the 11 volts. I'll let you know what happens, and if I fry another inverter board.
I'm getting between 11 and 12Volts DC on my smaller connector. You day it should be 4 to 6 Volts DC.... Am I doing something wrong?
Great video, BTW!
Thanks for watching, Do you have ac voltage present at the time the compressor should be running?
@@ATEMOFFROAD yes, I do.
@@romankarbowski9399 and does motor run! Of not controller is possibly bad still!
High pressure side will be higher causing more current draw, this overloading the part you just replaced.
I have a GFE29HMEJES.
and it is not cooling like it should. I pulled the fridge away and blew out the coils in the back. as I was instructed by another video. no change.. is this the next step? I have my fridge set at 36 and it's usually around 40-50 degrees. depending on how much it gets used. the freezer I have set to 0 and it's at 20. I am capable of fixing it just don't want to tear into it not knowing what I'm looking for
Ohhhhhh snap.
At 10:29 you read the output incorrectly.
The dash is just a separator.
The output is 230V between 53 to 150 Hertz.
Yes sir , Thanks for catching that I totally missed that 230v 53-150 HZ herts is what we vary to change motor speeds ! I see you haven’t subscribed please do thanks for watching
Hi, we have the exact refrigerator, but cannot find the exact replacement part number- VCC3 1156 C1 F 50. Is there a newer part number that will work with this refrigerator?
As long as they have the same input and output Specifications, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work , but just keep in mind there may be variations in the plugs too!
If you got 120 going into the inverter but don't have 240 going out is it bad? Or could it be the motherboard? Maybe the inverter needs a certain dc voltage to convert the 120 to 240?
@Daniel L 💥 nice, thanks for watching! There is no real way to check the outputs of the controller without specific equipment, on that note if you have control and power voltages present on the cabling, it’s very likely that the controller board is bad and needs replacement, if you have time and can wait , having a working back up controller would be very helpful to narrow down the problem . This is why I also test the motor for obvious open shorts! Even this test is vegue! Because the right way to test windings in the compressor would be to use a meggar! This device test for insulation breakdown and high resistance shorts! Hope this helps cheers!
@@ATEMOFFROAD without specific equipment ? What do you mean? Usually the present day multi meter has it all ejj
@@heatncool this is where the rubber meets the road! Thanks for watching!
My Samsung inverter makes circuit breaker of the house go off as soon as the compressor starts. Lately the compressor has been making noise. Do you have any suggestions?
M
What if I have all the same symptoms no cold in both compartments, compressor not running but it’s hot to the touch, could a failed inverter be the cause or do you think the compressor is locked up?
It’s likely that the compressor has failed or even locked up at this point, Do any of the fans come and stay on?
When testing the leads on the compressor my readings are jumping around. 22, 7, 17 ohms as an example. What could that mean?
If you move or slide the leads around it can cause that. Try to keep the leads still as possible and let the meter come to a stop if jumping around! Should be your reading! When it stopped, that could be and issue if those are truly unbalanced, and should be tested with a meggar! If you cannot access a meggar I would still try and replace the inverter board to see if it starts the motor
it means the compressor's windings have been shorted
I get about 30 ohms on all 3
Is that too high?
I changed this inverter 2 years ago and it worked. Now the fridge isn’t cooling again. Compressor is really hot. Is that a symptom for a bad inverter or bad compressor? Also blowers done seem to be working inside the fridge.
It could be a bad fan, make sure to clean the condenser coils and check that the fan is on when the compressor is on.
So what happen if I am not getting the 120 volts on the second plug you tested, do I still need to replace the controller ?
The controller can still be good, I would start testing up stream why there is no 120vac
@@ATEMOFFROAD what if you get no volts on the 1st test ?
@@shaquioafrancis6062 what are you testing? Ac or DC side of circuit?
@@ATEMOFFROAD I put it exactly where you did and got nadda.
@@shaquioafrancis6062 I’d start looking up stream where that power comes from ! Good luck
Hi Everyone.
So if I get the VCC3 1156 model it doesn't matter the others numbers? Mine is k8 f90
All those numbers matter as far as the input & output of the controller. All the controllers pretty much do the same thing but they have their differences so you want to match up the one that came off of your refrigerator
When checking the compressor I got 17 ohms on all three. Is that a good compressor or not?
Do you have good , both DC and AC inputs into the controller? If so then that ohm measurement would indicate consistency across all three phases. I would assume the compressor is good and you possibly have a bad controller. I’d try a different controller.
The blowers inside the fridge are running. The motor runs as well, but the fridge or freezer is not getting cool enough. The resistance at each motor coil is 7.6. I am getting 120v from one connector but the other is giving a reading of 12.6v instead of 4-6v. Any suggestions?
For some reason I’m not getting all notifications! I apologize! did you get this fixed, I would definitely Check all input sensors inside the refrigerator to the board . The temps are measured inside the refrigerator and input into the main circuit board. If the sensors are faulty can cause the motor speeds to slow. Hope this helps please subscribe.. thanks for watching
Joe, I had the same readings from my fridge (12.6v instead of 4-6v) and I went ahead and replaced the converter board anyway, and at first the compressor would not kick on, but then I reset the temperature control board , and that's when the compressor motor kicked on. The fridge has been running good for the last two days with no issues.
Jose thanks for the reply. I tried to add/check refrigerant and the low pressure side normally 2-5 psi had a pressure of 10+, so I assume my compressor is bad. We are looking to upgrade appliances anyway so We will probably replace the fridge.
@@JoseMartinez-vl4fc How do you reset the temp control brd?
@@JoseMartinez-vl4fc hello! How did you reset the temperature control board? Thanks 🙏
did you notice the original controller had a reworked sticker on it? so it must not have been a very good repair.
fast corvette yes I noticed it, I got this refrigerator used , it may have been repaired in the past before me. If you don’t close the door all the way you can burn up the controller quickly. Best to always set the door chime.
I have a bosch French door refrigerator
When I plug it in and stick my ear to the side of the refrigerator I can hear the compressor kick on for just a few seconds then kick back off but but neither one of the fans on the inside or the outside are coming on would that be the inverter box or the motherboard
Check for voltage present on the AC and DC side of the inverter outlined in this video. If they are there replace inverter if not , It could be something in the board.
@@ATEMOFFROAD I'm thinking it's probably the board because neither the condenser fan nor the evaporator fan comes on but I could be wrong does the inverter box power the fans?
The freezer of my Samsung French Door refrigetator (RF4267HAR) fluctuates between 46 and 51 degrees. (The main compartment maintains perfect temperature.) The problem started happening after it was moved from one house to another AND after a power glitch when it was plugged in the first time because the power cord got nicked in the move. I've tried a hard reset to the control board but it didn't resolve the issue. I'm afraid the power glitch may have damaged something serious but hoping too that it could be a simple fix. Any ideas?
Kim Gallo 💥 thanks for watching, I’m not sure about your setup but I believe cold air from the freezer is blown to that section of the ice maker, when the door is shut , I would check that your fans are on and that there are no restrictions! You won’t see a fan you have to dig for it! Good luck
Latest: this morning there is a loud noise coming from the bottom of the refrigerator and it turns off when I open the freezer drawer. I unplugged it for about 10 minutes. When I plugged it back the temp in the freeze had actually dropped 13 degrees. Could it be that the freezer is iced up and it just needs to be set to the defrost setting? ( I've read that the loud fan noise could be the blades hitting against ice)
Kim Gallo possible that the fan stopped working and iced up the coils, noise could be from the fan trying to start up!
Can this controller also cause the compressor to "short cycle?" My fridge and freezer aren't getting cold enough.
Possibly the unit could just be lazy and work when it decides to ! But I would be more pointing towards a bad or failing temp sensor / control circuit within the cabinet or mother board that initiates that type of occurrence. But if you had a controller in hand it wouldn’t hurt to try it! Good luck thanks for watching
@@ATEMOFFROAD Thanks for the video and the reply. I will try that.
I have a GE profile and the inside of the fridge in the fresh food section has two little fans on the side wall that seem to be overheating, they are really warm. My fridge/freezer is not cooling at all. Do you think this would be the same issue?
estela arroyo are the fans moving? The little one on the lower left corner is not really necessary, but the larger one in the very back is important to keep the coil from freezing up, make sure the compressor is on.
All Things Electro-Mechanical Jeeps & Outdoors yes the fan in the very back is moving (I can see it from inside the freezer after remover the drawer). Also the fan in the back bottom, behind the panel also is working. I see the compressor, but I don’t know how to tell if it’s working. I don’t have a multimeter, my compressor looks just like yours. Should it be warm/cool to the touch ? Or making a sound when on? Thanks for responding so quickly!!
Should be able to hear it turn on
Pleas be aware that some refrigerators like LG, come with the inverter integrated to the motherboard.