If you are planning to replace the engine anyway, can you just drive it until it dies and then do a tear down to show us what actually went wrong? A great way to move that process forward would be to drive it 9,000 miles. Who knows, it might not have any problems at all. If it doesn't break down then you win because you had no issues, and if it does break down you win because you get to make great content.
I would think all the aluminum particles were probably from the timing chain failure. If you did not take the oil pan off and clean out the pan and pickup tube, then you'll probably never get majority of the debris out. My recommendation would be to remove and inspect oil pan. Clean everything as best as possible, reassemble and do a couple oil changes then reevaluate. I would think if you had something wearing inside the engine causing that much debris there would be an associated abnormal noise. GM World Class, ASE Master certified technician, Banks Chevrolet Cadillac
Totally agree. As someone else said I would keep changing it until it is clean. Oil and filters and way cheaper than another engine. Also, you kind of know what you have now, any engine swap and you start over. Lastly, I think that 4 ounces of Seafoam is all you should have added. I think 8 ounces was too much. I think it was extra cleaned.
Waldo, just run it with normal oil change interval! The aluminum shavings could be in there from timing chains rubbing due to guides being broken! Use to see it in ford crown Vic police cars all the time. No big loss if it blows up and your close to home. I’d drive it!
I agree. If he mixed up his cam caps and put them back on out of order--- they will have some wear in also. Personally, I'd just plan on doing another oil change halfway through his trip. Maybe stop at another youtubers Garage along the way--- like a collab. It will at least ensure that he has fresh oil to get him home-- and just chalk it up as a little insurance cost. I bet by then, it will be mostly flushed out and should be fine. That seafoam is definitely an suspect idea on an old engine-- because there is so much gunk that it can break loose-- you have to be careful what you ask for. lol... Fuel tanks are notorious for clogging after adding a cleaner like that; and the Oil passages can be the same way.
Yeah, this is a good point. As for the camshaft bearing caps, I was very careful to install them in the same locations they came from, so that *shouldn't* be the issue. The only downside to having it blow up on me is that it'll make it more difficult to move around the property as needed (e.g. when I want to move it into the shop, or if I want to mow under it, etc.). I guess I should order a bunch of oil filters and give it a try 👍
Waldo, This series of four has been one of the most easily-comprehensible, enjoyable and magnetic I've ever watched on TH-cam. Your laid-back style has been a pleasure to watch and I wish you success with getting the Range Rover up and running to the confidence level that will allow you to run it with confidence.
I'm not a Mechanic but do work in JLR Spare Parts and I would say just run it, putting more money into this engine is just chasing losses. If it does go pop then replace it with an engine that is reliable and as close to the original engine spec as possible i.e. a reliable V8 of similar displacment with similar features. You should be able to adapt the Jag sensors to work on the new V8 allowing the Jag Engine Computer to run it at the end of the day the ECU has no idea what the sensors are installed in and all engines need the same things to run.
Keep driving it. I reckon you've accumulated a lot of that metal from the previous damage and it's swirling around in the sump. You've fixed it now. Regular oil changes and flushing and it will last a ling time now. I hope you fitted the newer chain guides with the stainless steel buttons for the tensioners. The original ones were aluminium, which is what some of that material in your filter could be.
Keep driving it I honestly think that’s nothing wrong with the engine Sea foam probably removed/ detached some gunk so it will take some driving to get rid of
you only flushed it once. that's hardly enough if its been neglected; i would do it twice more. also i don't remember, did you have the oil pan off? how was it? lastly , when you were drilling the broken bolts it looked like the metal grounds were falling straight into the engine.
@@WaldosWorld Thank's for replying. Like many here I'm an optimist, I'd suggest changing the oil a couple more times and just keep driving. There's also a machine (the garage I go to has one) that deep flushes the oil. It attaches hoses to the oil filler and the sump drain and connects them to an external filter and pump. It runs a heated, high detergent oil around the engine for a couple of hours and it gets EVERYTHING out. Maybe you can find something like that nearby? Also this reminds me how, with good old cast iron blocks, you could just stick a magnet to the back of the oil pan and all filings would collect there!
@@WaldosWorld I think that is your biggest mistake right there, and a one which you could correct in an hour or two in the next oil change, when you drive it on the lift next time let it run until hot 10-15m and then leave overnight for the hot oil to wash itself and the shavings down onto the pan as much as possible, and then clean it while doing another oil change, and you are set.
@@WaldosWorld Maybe a bigger piece of the broken tensioner is loose in the engine, bigger but still very small... like the size of a little bb or smaller, I would do the powered flush and take off the pan and clean everything you can out with the machine mentioned above if it's not too costly, would hate to mix the engine brands in such a nice rover. Not sure how you'd find a random piece of aluminum... but I bet it will grind itself away and not hurt the engine too much, but what do I know. You said the coolant was mixing with the oil, could it be from the radiator or that side of things? Just throwing ideas at you.
After watching to the end and I agree with the rebuild. You seem VERY detail oriented, and you do the appropriate research before starting a project. Since you have plenty of other things to drive I would suggest doing the rebuild yourself. It will make great content.
Ive got a 2009 L322 supercharged. For oil on my neglected truck I started using Liqui Moly -Molygen 5W30 in the green bottle. She runs Amazing. 30-40% quieter. 18-20mpg highway (below 70mph). Wont discuss nyc mpg bc we know that. But for your long distance driving make sure you got the good oil and bring an extra jug with you. And as long as shes got new plugs and possibly coils you should be good. You may want to run a bottle of Oxycat in the fuel to clean out the cats. Run her at 3k rpm on cruise control for an hour with like ⅓ tank of gas left. Then fuel up and feel the difference. Oh. And get her waxed. That’ll get you another 2mph highway :)
Send the oil in for testing, Maybe the gunk is grinded up chain tensioning guide or from the hole it rubbed in the cover!? I think you should test the oil and keep driving it and keep flushing the engine oil and see how it goes.
I'm inclined to agree it's just the aluminium from the tensioner damage. Maybe give it another flush that should get rid of any last bits. If a rebuild or engine swap maybe in the cards then just running it as is with any possible issues won't really matter to much. Great videos bud, keep up the good work
13:53 in Russia they have been swapping Toyota v8 in range rovers, Porsche Cayenne, Mercedes’ sprinter/gwagen , Bentley…… there are multiple channels on TH-cam. It’s NVA motors the TH-cam channel.
As a former bmw tech, it appears that engine uses a similar process that bmw does with cylinder liners being “electro-arc sprayed” on. This process was essentially a failure as a design in this era of vehicles, and caused a ton of failures due to premature wear. Based on your boroscope video, with the heavy thrust area wear, it’s likely a lot of those particles are coming from there. However, with that much contamination, if it was just from the cylinder walls, you should see some lower compression numbers. My guess is the oil pump being the major culprit of wear. I’m not Land Rover trained, but nearly all modern engines have oil pumps with aluminum housings and steel gears, and the first component to use unfiltered oil is the oil pump itself.
Just wanted to say thank you for turning me to the Milwaukee metal saw and the Tillman gloves. You pick very good products. That saw is a blessing. I have an XP30 and am sick of grinding dross and slag. When I first used the saw on 3/16 msp, I was awestruck. It cuts with less effort than going through wood with my cordless framing saw.
Maybe drop the oil pan if it is eay to clean out any debris and drive it with constant oil chages to see if all the junk is cleaned out like the other viewer suggested.
I'm watching this Range Rover series as a first viewing of your channel. I recently had to sell my RR for €2700 as it had a number of problems after being stood for 2.5 years in my garage during Covid. Anyway, I just wanted to say that both your knowledge of mechanics and the tools to do the job is really impressive, as is the presentation. Congrats on a job well done all round. I would love an RR again but whereas you can buy them cheap, for very amateur mechanics like myself the repairs are just too expensive.
You crazy guy! And good call at stopping where you did. And yes, it definitely matters which way ya wanna go. And super frustrating to do all you did, and still not be able to drive it😢
I have seen fractured guides on many manufacturer's engines after timing issues. With the amount of effort you have put in a new set of guides would not be the worst job before they self detonate and a lot cheaper than an unknown used block!
Really like the clarity of you taking us through the step by step process, very informative. Now I don't see a Range Rover in my future, but the insight will help with me fixing my daily driver.
Great vid. No LS swap, too complex of a vehicle. It's find that glitter in the oil source and use the bucket to smash it, but a super mud run or an airborne jump may be required first. These LR's are hard ones as they are unique from oil passages to high tech attempts at superiority. Hoping you can find the source of the aluminum in the oil and fix. Someone with better knowledge of these than me might help. Sure hope so. Waiting on Part 5.
Fully agree. What can you loose just driving it. Who knows if it comes right. You did so much and spent so much time and money. Enjoy it for local trips.
Run it with regular maintenance. Don’t overthink it and I think you’ll get a lot more life out of it than you think. But go ahead and ls3 h/c/I swap with t56 if you want 👀
In 2nd part i almost thought the owner might have lost out.. But after part 3 I admire that guy... He didn't even bother trying and got whatever he cld get...
Cheap is usually cheap for a reason. If your taking the engine out to swap, where’s the harm in tearing the engine down? You could find the problem and be able to fix it for cheaper than another engine. I agree with other commenters I’d at least 2 more short interval changes before condemning the engine. It was neglected for a while and there is a lot places for junk to hide that gets loosened up by sea foam.
Becareful, @ 2:29 when you did the bolt extraction it looks like some of the metal shavings from drilling the bolt might have fallen down into the engine.
Yeah this repair is just not good at all... so many future problems could be prevented by taking the time to do things right the first time and don't allow metal shards from drilling to enter the motor... 🤦♂🤦♂
What an amazing and talented young man and an incredibly interesting and captivating channel. Please, keep up the exceptional work. Kids like you give me hope for the future of our country.
Dsmn, it's a shame for the engine rebuild. You did a great job fixing it to this point, you should be proud with such a complicated system. I would just keep driving it local until or if it breaks down. LOL, we could have an episode of roadkill if you took it on your trip.😉 Thanks for another great vid Waldo and I hope you feel better soon. I just noticed too that the race for 200k subs is on, it wasn't that long ago for 100k. Go Waldo's World!!!!
At this point the only thing left to do is write: "Waldo's complete guide to Land Rover/Range Rover Maintenance" You could pitch the concept to the Discovery channel since there always on the lookout for the impossible, improbable and the absurd. Cheers!
Hey Waldo, my wife and I just got back from the Cripple Creek, CO area and it’s awesome! On your road trip check out Manitou Springs and Victor as well. Victor is a cool little mining town. A lot of old mining equipment!
Rebuilding is for young guys like you who have the patience and energy to do it twice. The rebuild and then the newer engine replacement later when the rebuild inevitably fails down the road. At least you'll get a youtube video or two out of it.
It's funny you say that... I rebuilt a 97 Isuzu rodeo 5spd 4x4, that had a spun bearing at 240k miles or so (I towed a lot with it, and beat it up offraod a lot). Spent $1k on machining the block, also getting new bigger pistons, new crank, all new bearing kit and head gaskets, ect. ect... I got a couple thousand miles out of it--- and I noticed that I have an oil leak, and it's a little low. I let my brother drive it to the store, and he comes back with it HAMMERING yet again........ I had told him to take it easy, it's a new motor; it was raining a little bit -- and he says; "What? All I did was spin out a few donuts in the rain, it shouldn't just break" _-- smh.. so yeah, he hot roded my new engine and over revved it with low oil, and killed it... Never rebuild an engine, and never let your brother drive your newly built engine............ I ended up buying another rodeo for $500, with 160k miles with a blown trans and swapped that motor into mine; and drove it all the way to 320k miles and now it needs a timing belt. It's a little offroad sleeper-- so I'll get around to doing the timing job eventually.
Your takeaway is 100% on point. My wife has always admired used Rovers and (so far?) i have been able to talk her out of buying one. Its a fools errand for a layperson to try and keep one of these moneypits going.
Engine Flush and oil pan removal...It would make damn much of noise if it would have been wearing... probably those debris are still left in oil pan. Great work of art. Thanks. Great videos
Like the man said in your earlier video: these things come off the assembly line with Check Engine light on. Despite your very best efforts, and your need for video content, I say part it out to recover your losses. I so want you to “win” here, but the deck is stacked against. There’s a reason these cars are so cheap: they apparently are legitimately terrible. So sad: they are so gorgeous!
Along with the easy-out kit, left hand drill bits work great for extracting bolts when used along side of right handed bits. Simply drill a hole in the broken bolt with a right handed bit, then choose the next size up in a left handed bit and forcefully drill the hole thus provoking the bit to jam inside the broken bolt and unscrew it.
I like the different stuff. Everyone does a ls or coyote swap. Find out WHY these are unreliable and engineer a way to fix it. It’d be tedious, but interesting.
early model chain guides get destroyed by the tensioner piston poking a hole through them. same thing happens on the ford 4.6 4v other than that most of these get blown up because of coolant loss from the water pump or the front and rear coolant crossovers
As dark as the first oil change is, it’s possible, all the broken cam parts were just stuck in the oil sludge in the engine, if it’s holding good oil pressure and not making abnormal knocking or vibrations. It’s probably fine.
@waldo Dude, I need more content! Love the channel and the videos you release! Please keep them coming as I'm begining to feel addicted to your channel. TIA, your glorious subscriber
This is my favorite Chanel on TH-cam. I love the level of detail you share and the project is cool. A cheap luxury’s vehicle.. I wish you had more vids. I’m sure it takes a long time to make them though. Great content!
The 3 litre diesel in my Discovery has ran 313000 km without trouble. But it's maybe difficult to get that one where you live. Other than that a Mercedes diesel would be cool.
As always. The quality of this video is impeccable! You made this relatively in-depth job look easy. I am pretty happy that it doesn't need a rebuild because I wanted to see you drive it and I'm very excited for the cross country road trip videos. Very clear instructions for those that may want to follow along.
Sorry Waldo, I forgot to comment with a yes on the rebuild, you are this far in to it, its three quarters of the way disassembled, so keep going. No sense in having to do it all over again to be right back here. It does not look like you need the practice in taking it apart, deer flies or no deer flies. I going to get in to part four
I am not here to advise you, as i understand that you will decide a best option for yourself! I just wanted to thank you for making such a content, i am just amazed how many tools you have !! I have hardly came across any youtube channel which is this good ! A long way to go brother !! Wish you luck !!
Great video, Waldo, good to see you back! Your roadtrip will be about 6 hours away from me at your northwest point in Montana. I’m in British Columbia. Would an oil analysis on the range rover better narrow down what is wearing?
Thanks, Greg! Yeah, I guess an oil sample would help tell if it's aluminum or something else. Their experience interpreting the results certainly wouldn't be a bad thing either 😂
Last night I started watching your vids, from the Lieber machine. I jumped to the Land Rover videos which are preery exciting but it is sad to know how complex and intrincate and almost propietary or incompatible Land rover technology is. Good for you, you have the knowledge, the patience and the time to work on this projects but they are definietey pricey. Excellent set of vids. Looking for part V. and I would go with the Engine Swap. It appears to be the most practical thing to do.
When you did your cams--- You have to keep the caps in order and put them back where you got them from. If you mixed up your caps, it will have to wear in a bit-- but it should still be fine after it wears in.... I'd just plan on doing an oil change half way on your trip, somewhere on the road or in another TH-camrs garage along the way. (that's what Deboss Garage always does). That seafoam could have busted a lot of stuff loose and it may take a few cycles/ oil changes to flush it all out.
Here on the West Coast, both of them are worth 100/ton, the wheels would be about $25 each (×8), an I don't know for sure, but I bet the Catalytic converters are worth a grand or more...... Best advice you're gonna get Waldo... 😜
Can you retrofit the sensors from the Rover engine to the GM LS or Toyota 5.7L engine for the Rover electronics? Use the GM or Toyota ECM to run the engine. I know this sounds easier than it really is, but it may solve some of the issues with the conversion.
LR3 (Discovery 3 everywhere else in the world) is a great truck! I think it was probably the most reliable Land Rover product for many years. I had one and the only thing that went wrong with the rear view mirror came off the windshield right 3 days after I bought it brand new. By the way all that fancy trash control and yaha control ..yeah that doesn't matter on ice. It won't save you. Especially if there's a layer of thin snow on top of it and you can't see the ice underneath it. And the fancy street tires they put on them limit your off-road capability. But otherwise great comfortable and generally reliable vehicles. (LR3) only
Hey! Thanks for this awesome video. Love the project and your format. I don’t think you should swap an LS into it, better to get this or a similar/newer engine. If you wanna go crazy with it, maybe convert it an EV?
I remember you said you would not be another failed youtuber with a broken Range Rover, so please don't be! Really liking this content, it also brought me to your channel :) All the way from Belgium
PJmac. After I had my chain guides changed I drained oil and dropped oil pan.Found a lot of plastic from old guides and some metal shaving.Also oil pick up strainer was partially blocked with plastic from guides.I changed oil three times over a couple of weeks.Oil filter had no particles of anything.Its been four years, runs well.
I've been a mechanic most of my life seeing the damage from those broken vulture probably got residual aluminum still throughout the engine you only drove the vehicle 10 miles you said so that wasn't enough time to flush everything loose plus you're going to have some transfer from the new components you put in there from what I can tell on your videos the engine sounds really well I wouldn't worry about it I just drive it put some liquid Moly anti friction oil treatment you can find on Amazon for about 10 bucks a can I nearly get mine at Napa for around $14
Agree with some other comments. My experience as well has been new metal internal parts you will see metal shavings. Could be all the metal in the system from before finally getting some good servicing and breaking it all loose.
Those timing chains flapping around in there make a lot of aluminum shrapnel.. you'll be picking aluminum out of your filter for three more oil changes then shell be all fixed... only way to get it all in a hurry is drop the pan which is a fluster cluck on those piles of equipment
I did one with a New timing chain and crank and cam sprockets. Metal shavings did go away after four new filters . The bolt that was rattling around would add even more shavings to clear all the oil channels. Before your trip use Liqui Moly Ceratec.
I once had an 1978 MGB. It constantly had electrical problems. I was telling a British friend about all the electrical problems I was having and he told me a joke that was relevant. "Why do British people drink warm beer? Because they have Lucas refrigerators" :o)
AH SNAP! i've done the same mistake with my 1996 volvo 940. The issue with engine cleaners is that they do more harm than good if used the easy way. Ideally we should've both taken the oil pan out, thoroughly cleaned it, then added some expensable oil with the engine cleaner followed by at least 2 oil changes. By cleaning the sump first you ensure 90% of the rubbish has been removed and won't go swirling around all the friction points such as crankshaft bearings etc. Then that way you only clean and dislocate any residue from oil passages and the rest of the engine which you'd want to flush out after 500 miles or so. If the oil and filter don't look too bad then you're good to put fresh good quality oil and filters in until the next oil change. As every one else mentioned keep at it until it's clean, perhaps at the next oil change once you've drained the old oil put the sump plug back on and pour a quart of oil in the engine, then flush that as well, hopefully the fresh oil will drain a good amount of stuff in your sump, you could even run it through a cloth or towel to see if it actually carried some shavings with it. Best of luck Waldo. If you were to engine swap it why not consider the 4.4TDV8 or the smaller 3.6TDV8 or even the L405 4.4 v8 turbo diesel V8 engine from the newer 2012 onwards range rovers? They're all diesel torque monsters, they come with 600 to 700nm(516lbft) from factory, if you re map them they go up to 1000nm(737lbft) or more.
![Replacing Crankshaft Bearings and the Oil Pump in my Cheap Range Rover [Part 5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sNqKducDQoQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Replacing Crankshaft Bearings and the Oil Pump in my Cheap Range Rover [Part 5]](/img/tr.png)
![I Bought a Land Rover LR3 at Auction! Did I End Up With a LEMON? [Part 1]](/img/n.gif)
If you are planning to replace the engine anyway, can you just drive it until it dies and then do a tear down to show us what actually went wrong? A great way to move that process forward would be to drive it 9,000 miles. Who knows, it might not have any problems at all. If it doesn't break down then you win because you had no issues, and if it does break down you win because you get to make great content.
I agree, thanks for the encouragement! 👍
I like this idea. There could be a lot to learn here.
Agreed
sounds like a win win to me
Came here to say the same thing! Great idea!
I would think all the aluminum particles were probably from the timing chain failure. If you did not take the oil pan off and clean out the pan and pickup tube, then you'll probably never get majority of the debris out. My recommendation would be to remove and inspect oil pan. Clean everything as best as possible, reassemble and do a couple oil changes then reevaluate. I would think if you had something wearing inside the engine causing that much debris there would be an associated abnormal noise. GM World Class, ASE Master certified technician, Banks Chevrolet Cadillac
Totally agree.
As someone else said I would keep changing it until it is clean. Oil and filters and way cheaper than another engine. Also, you kind of know what you have now, any engine swap and you start over.
Lastly, I think that 4 ounces of Seafoam is all you should have added. I think 8 ounces was too much. I think it was extra cleaned.
Hey Chris, I'd like to ask you something about GM certification. Whats your instagram?
Makes sense.
@@brianvancalster2594 I agree with you Brian.
Need to drop the pan.
Waldo, just run it with normal oil change interval! The aluminum shavings could be in there from timing chains rubbing due to guides being broken! Use to see it in ford crown Vic police cars all the time. No big loss if it blows up and your close to home. I’d drive it!
I agree. If he mixed up his cam caps and put them back on out of order--- they will have some wear in also. Personally, I'd just plan on doing another oil change halfway through his trip. Maybe stop at another youtubers Garage along the way--- like a collab. It will at least ensure that he has fresh oil to get him home-- and just chalk it up as a little insurance cost. I bet by then, it will be mostly flushed out and should be fine. That seafoam is definitely an suspect idea on an old engine-- because there is so much gunk that it can break loose-- you have to be careful what you ask for. lol... Fuel tanks are notorious for clogging after adding a cleaner like that; and the Oil passages can be the same way.
@@calholli you can, you had a source of aluminum where the bolt was broken off. All that aluminum around the bolt hole will be in the oil.
Add me to the "Drive it until it breaks" list. Maybe not a 6000 mile trip, but around town? Hell yea!
Yeah, this is a good point. As for the camshaft bearing caps, I was very careful to install them in the same locations they came from, so that *shouldn't* be the issue. The only downside to having it blow up on me is that it'll make it more difficult to move around the property as needed (e.g. when I want to move it into the shop, or if I want to mow under it, etc.). I guess I should order a bunch of oil filters and give it a try 👍
@@WaldosWorld Maybe previous owners didn't do regular oil changes and your seafoam is slowly breaking a lot of stuff free
Landrover, turning drivers into mechanics since 1948.
Waldo,
This series of four has been one of the most easily-comprehensible, enjoyable and magnetic I've ever watched on TH-cam. Your laid-back style has been a pleasure to watch and I wish you success with getting the Range Rover up and running to the confidence level that will allow you to run it with confidence.
I noticed while you extracted the broken bolt the drill filings went in the engine timing casing.
I was thinking that too
It's just aluminum. What could possibly go wrong? 😬
@@WaldosWorld hmmm...the bolts are not aluminium.....
I'm not a Mechanic but do work in JLR Spare Parts and I would say just run it, putting more money into this engine is just chasing losses. If it does go pop then replace it with an engine that is reliable and as close to the original engine spec as possible i.e. a reliable V8 of similar displacment with similar features. You should be able to adapt the Jag sensors to work on the new V8 allowing the Jag Engine Computer to run it at the end of the day the ECU has no idea what the sensors are installed in and all engines need the same things to run.
Keep driving it. I reckon you've accumulated a lot of that metal from the previous damage and it's swirling around in the sump. You've fixed it now. Regular oil changes and flushing and it will last a ling time now. I hope you fitted the newer chain guides with the stainless steel buttons for the tensioners. The original ones were aluminium, which is what some of that material in your filter could be.
Yep, it's got all the updated timing components 👍
Keep driving it
I honestly think that’s nothing wrong with the engine
Sea foam probably removed/ detached some gunk so it will take some driving to get rid of
you only flushed it once. that's hardly enough if its been neglected; i would do it twice more. also i don't remember, did you have the oil pan off? how was it? lastly , when you were drilling the broken bolts it looked like the metal grounds were falling straight into the engine.
I agree with you!
Yeah, you're right. I only flushed it once and I didn't have the oil pan off 👍
@@WaldosWorld yhea man deff get the pan off and flush it at least 2 more times
@@WaldosWorld Thank's for replying. Like many here I'm an optimist, I'd suggest changing the oil a couple more times and just keep driving. There's also a machine (the garage I go to has one) that deep flushes the oil. It attaches hoses to the oil filler and the sump drain and connects them to an external filter and pump. It runs a heated, high detergent oil around the engine for a couple of hours and it gets EVERYTHING out. Maybe you can find something like that nearby? Also this reminds me how, with good old cast iron blocks, you could just stick a magnet to the back of the oil pan and all filings would collect there!
@@WaldosWorld I think that is your biggest mistake right there, and a one which you could correct in an hour or two in the next oil change, when you drive it on the lift next time let it run until hot 10-15m and then leave overnight for the hot oil to wash itself and the shavings down onto the pan as much as possible, and then clean it while doing another oil change, and you are set.
Run it!
If it stays together, great. If not, you'll get another disassemble/diagnoses experience.😁
Thanks!👍
+1
More video content, right? 😂
@@WaldosWorld Well...yes, and a chance it stays together.
Thanks!👍
@@WaldosWorld Maybe a bigger piece of the broken tensioner is loose in the engine, bigger but still very small... like the size of a little bb or smaller, I would do the powered flush and take off the pan and clean everything you can out with the machine mentioned above if it's not too costly, would hate to mix the engine brands in such a nice rover. Not sure how you'd find a random piece of aluminum... but I bet it will grind itself away and not hurt the engine too much, but what do I know. You said the coolant was mixing with the oil, could it be from the radiator or that side of things? Just throwing ideas at you.
After watching to the end and I agree with the rebuild. You seem VERY detail oriented, and you do the appropriate research before starting a project. Since you have plenty of other things to drive I would suggest doing the rebuild yourself. It will make great content.
Ive got a 2009 L322 supercharged. For oil on my neglected truck I started using Liqui Moly -Molygen 5W30 in the green bottle. She runs Amazing. 30-40% quieter. 18-20mpg highway (below 70mph). Wont discuss nyc mpg bc we know that. But for your long distance driving make sure you got the good oil and bring an extra jug with you. And as long as shes got new plugs and possibly coils you should be good.
You may want to run a bottle of Oxycat in the fuel to clean out the cats. Run her at 3k rpm on cruise control for an hour with like ⅓ tank of gas left. Then fuel up and feel the difference.
Oh. And get her waxed. That’ll get you another 2mph highway :)
Thanks!
Send the oil in for testing, Maybe the gunk is grinded up chain tensioning guide or from the hole it rubbed in the cover!? I think you should test the oil and keep driving it and keep flushing the engine oil and see how it goes.
In addition, you could have the metal shavings analyzed to determine the exact alloy. This would allow you to trace back which part is eroding.
Waldo your quality and knowledge on this channel will make you huge bro keep it up glad to see your projects everytime they pop up on my feed!
I appreciate it!
I'm inclined to agree it's just the aluminium from the tensioner damage. Maybe give it another flush that should get rid of any last bits.
If a rebuild or engine swap maybe in the cards then just running it as is with any possible issues won't really matter to much.
Great videos bud, keep up the good work
The results of the compression test is FANTASTIC news!! I'm glad you don't need to do a rebuild!
I like the Toyota 5.7 idea. You can also seek out a stand alone ecu like a haltech.
13:53 in Russia they have been swapping Toyota v8 in range rovers, Porsche Cayenne, Mercedes’ sprinter/gwagen , Bentley…… there are multiple channels on TH-cam. It’s NVA motors the TH-cam channel.
As a former bmw tech, it appears that engine uses a similar process that bmw does with cylinder liners being “electro-arc sprayed” on. This process was essentially a failure as a design in this era of vehicles, and caused a ton of failures due to premature wear. Based on your boroscope video, with the heavy thrust area wear, it’s likely a lot of those particles are coming from there. However, with that much contamination, if it was just from the cylinder walls, you should see some lower compression numbers. My guess is the oil pump being the major culprit of wear. I’m not Land Rover trained, but nearly all modern engines have oil pumps with aluminum housings and steel gears, and the first component to use unfiltered oil is the oil pump itself.
That's a good point. I'll have to see if I can figure out if the oil pump is the culprit 👍
Don't these range rovers run on bmw engines.
Just wanted to say thank you for turning me to the Milwaukee metal saw and the Tillman gloves. You pick very good products. That saw is a blessing. I have an XP30 and am sick of grinding dross and slag. When I first used the saw on 3/16 msp, I was awestruck. It cuts with less effort than going through wood with my cordless framing saw.
Maybe drop the oil pan if it is eay to clean out any debris and drive it with constant oil chages to see if all the junk is cleaned out like the other viewer suggested.
I'm watching this Range Rover series as a first viewing of your channel. I recently had to sell my RR for €2700 as it had a number of problems after being stood for 2.5 years in my garage during Covid. Anyway, I just wanted to say that both your knowledge of mechanics and the tools to do the job is really impressive, as is the presentation. Congrats on a job well done all round. I would love an RR again but whereas you can buy them cheap, for very amateur mechanics like myself the repairs are just too expensive.
You crazy guy! And good call at stopping where you did. And yes, it definitely matters which way ya wanna go. And super frustrating to do all you did, and still not be able to drive it😢
I have seen fractured guides on many manufacturer's engines after timing issues. With the amount of effort you have put in a new set of guides would not be the worst job before they self detonate and a lot cheaper than an unknown used block!
What a fancy torque wrench! No more need to fake the click, click sound! Nice video, I sure hope you figure something out with the Range Rover.
Really like the clarity of you taking us through the step by step process, very informative. Now I don't see a Range Rover in my future, but the insight will help with me fixing my daily driver.
Great vid. No LS swap, too complex of a vehicle. It's find that glitter in the oil source and use the bucket to smash it, but a super mud run or an airborne jump may be required first. These LR's are hard ones as they are unique from oil passages to high tech attempts at superiority. Hoping you can find the source of the aluminum in the oil and fix. Someone with better knowledge of these than me might help. Sure hope so. Waiting on Part 5.
I agree with what your saying... and the folks that build these piles should have the guts to reach out
@7:10 "That's what she said"! :)
that's what I said to her
Fully agree. What can you loose just driving it. Who knows if it comes right. You did so much and spent so much time and money. Enjoy it for local trips.
Run it with regular maintenance. Don’t overthink it and I think you’ll get a lot more life out of it than you think. But go ahead and ls3 h/c/I swap with t56 if you want 👀
In 2nd part i almost thought the owner might have lost out.. But after part 3 I admire that guy... He didn't even bother trying and got whatever he cld get...
Just when I was supposed to sleep. That can wait 😊
I know how you feel 😂
That aluminum is from where the bolt wore tbe block
Cheap is usually cheap for a reason. If your taking the engine out to swap, where’s the harm in tearing the engine down? You could find the problem and be able to fix it for cheaper than another engine. I agree with other commenters I’d at least 2 more short interval changes before condemning the engine. It was neglected for a while and there is a lot places for junk to hide that gets loosened up by sea foam.
Maybe try an engine flush like watchjrgo uses?
What a pleasure to watch someone do a job properly great work
Becareful, @ 2:29 when you did the bolt extraction it looks like some of the metal shavings from drilling the bolt might have fallen down into the engine.
Made me cringe
I agree
Yeah this repair is just not good at all... so many future problems could be prevented by taking the time to do things right the first time and don't allow metal shards from drilling to enter the motor... 🤦♂🤦♂
@@stlwrx It’s a cheap POS range rover, who cares?
did he even recover the broken head bolt that was down in the pan?
What an amazing and talented young man and an incredibly interesting and captivating channel. Please, keep up the exceptional work. Kids like you give me hope for the future of our country.
Keep driving it, The aluminum shavings could be in there from timing chains rubbing due to guides being broken!
I've enjoyed watching your work ..... NASA needs people like you.
I’d run a couple engine oil flush cycles. Might just be shavings from the extract or failed timing components.
Good call! 👍
Love this man, it takes me two hours just to change the plugs, amazing the work you do by yourself :)
Dsmn, it's a shame for the engine rebuild. You did a great job fixing it to this point, you should be proud with such a complicated system. I would just keep driving it local until or if it breaks down. LOL, we could have an episode of roadkill if you took it on your trip.😉 Thanks for another great vid Waldo and I hope you feel better soon. I just noticed too that the race for 200k subs is on, it wasn't that long ago for 100k. Go Waldo's World!!!!
Thank you! The growth has been amazing, mostly due to this RR series and also the excavator video 👍
At this point the only thing left to do is write: "Waldo's complete guide to Land Rover/Range Rover Maintenance" You could pitch the concept to the Discovery channel since there always on the lookout for the impossible, improbable and the absurd. Cheers!
awesome another video 👍
Can't wait to see the road trip.
Hey Waldo, my wife and I just got back from the Cripple Creek, CO area and it’s awesome! On your road trip check out Manitou Springs and Victor as well. Victor is a cool little mining town. A lot of old mining equipment!
Rebuilding is for young guys like you who have the patience and energy to do it twice. The rebuild and then the newer engine replacement later when the rebuild inevitably fails down the road. At least you'll get a youtube video or two out of it.
Lmfao 😅😅😅😅😅
It's funny you say that... I rebuilt a 97 Isuzu rodeo 5spd 4x4, that had a spun bearing at 240k miles or so (I towed a lot with it, and beat it up offraod a lot). Spent $1k on machining the block, also getting new bigger pistons, new crank, all new bearing kit and head gaskets, ect. ect... I got a couple thousand miles out of it--- and I noticed that I have an oil leak, and it's a little low. I let my brother drive it to the store, and he comes back with it HAMMERING yet again........ I had told him to take it easy, it's a new motor; it was raining a little bit -- and he says; "What? All I did was spin out a few donuts in the rain, it shouldn't just break" _-- smh.. so yeah, he hot roded my new engine and over revved it with low oil, and killed it... Never rebuild an engine, and never let your brother drive your newly built engine............ I ended up buying another rodeo for $500, with 160k miles with a blown trans and swapped that motor into mine; and drove it all the way to 320k miles and now it needs a timing belt. It's a little offroad sleeper-- so I'll get around to doing the timing job eventually.
Yeah, because old men don't do rebuilds, smh.
Your takeaway is 100% on point. My wife has always admired used Rovers and (so far?) i have been able to talk her out of buying one. Its a fools errand for a layperson to try and keep one of these moneypits going.
Oh my god,my fly is undone.😆🤣🤣🤣
Engine Flush and oil pan removal...It would make damn much of noise if it would have been wearing... probably those debris are still left in oil pan. Great work of art. Thanks. Great videos
Like the man said in your earlier video: these things come off the assembly line with Check Engine light on. Despite your very best efforts, and your need for video content, I say part it out to recover your losses. I so want you to “win” here, but the deck is stacked against. There’s a reason these cars are so cheap: they apparently are legitimately terrible. So sad: they are so gorgeous!
Along with the easy-out kit, left hand drill bits work great for extracting bolts when used along side of right handed bits. Simply drill a hole in the broken bolt with a right handed bit, then choose the next size up in a left handed bit and forcefully drill the hole thus provoking the bit to jam inside the broken bolt and unscrew it.
I like the different stuff. Everyone does a ls or coyote swap. Find out WHY these are unreliable and engineer a way to fix it. It’d be tedious, but interesting.
Honestly, fixing the timing is a big part of it. There are of course other issues as well 👍
early model chain guides get destroyed by the tensioner piston poking a hole through them. same thing happens on the ford 4.6 4v
other than that most of these get blown up because of coolant loss from the water pump or the front and rear coolant crossovers
I've never heard of a Coyote swap, but LS swaps are common, even in spaces that the engine would normally not fit into (Miatas).
Great videos Waldo. Please make your videos more often as they are very interesting.
As dark as the first oil change is, it’s possible, all the broken cam parts were just stuck in the oil sludge in the engine, if it’s holding good oil pressure and not making abnormal knocking or vibrations. It’s probably fine.
If it were mine I run run it until it quit. Just keep the oil changed and drive it. Great video thanks for sharing!!
@waldo Dude, I need more content! Love the channel and the videos you release! Please keep them coming as I'm begining to feel addicted to your channel. TIA, your glorious subscriber
Thank you so much! 🤠
This is my favorite Chanel on TH-cam. I love the level of detail you share and the project is cool. A cheap luxury’s vehicle.. I wish you had more vids. I’m sure it takes a long time to make them though. Great content!
Wow I’m excited to watch this video while I eat my salmon dinner and twice baked potato tonight! Thanks Waldo!
Yum! 🤠
Iam chilling in Jamaica eating some jerk chicken and watching waldo working on my favorite truck koool
Loved how the bolt shavings were falling all around the timing parts :))
The 3 litre diesel in my Discovery has ran 313000 km without trouble. But it's maybe difficult to get that one where you live. Other than that a Mercedes diesel would be cool.
I would love a Mercedes diesel! 🤠
Om606
As always. The quality of this video is impeccable! You made this relatively in-depth job look easy. I am pretty happy that it doesn't need a rebuild because I wanted to see you drive it and I'm very excited for the cross country road trip videos. Very clear instructions for those that may want to follow along.
Sweet project
Sorry Waldo, I forgot to comment with a yes on the rebuild, you are this far in to it, its three quarters of the way disassembled, so keep going. No sense in having to do it all over again to be right back here. It does not look like you need the practice in taking it apart, deer flies or no deer flies. I going to get in to part four
TBH , i would just keep driving the RR until it goes bang .. at least then everyone will get the content from an engine autopsy
I am not here to advise you, as i understand that you will decide a best option for yourself!
I just wanted to thank you for making such a content, i am just amazed how many tools you have !! I have hardly came across any youtube channel which is this good ! A long way to go brother !! Wish you luck !!
Great video, Waldo, good to see you back! Your roadtrip will be about 6 hours away from me at your northwest point in Montana. I’m in British Columbia. Would an oil analysis on the range rover better narrow down what is wearing?
Thanks, Greg! Yeah, I guess an oil sample would help tell if it's aluminum or something else. Their experience interpreting the results certainly wouldn't be a bad thing either 😂
Last night I started watching your vids, from the Lieber machine. I jumped to the Land Rover videos which are preery exciting but it is sad to know how complex and intrincate and almost propietary or incompatible Land rover technology is. Good for you, you have the knowledge, the patience and the time to work on this projects but they are definietey pricey. Excellent set of vids. Looking for part V. and I would go with the Engine Swap. It appears to be the most practical thing to do.
When you did your cams--- You have to keep the caps in order and put them back where you got them from. If you mixed up your caps, it will have to wear in a bit-- but it should still be fine after it wears in.... I'd just plan on doing an oil change half way on your trip, somewhere on the road or in another TH-camrs garage along the way. (that's what Deboss Garage always does). That seafoam could have busted a lot of stuff loose and it may take a few cycles/ oil changes to flush it all out.
Yeah, I made sure to put the camshaft caps back in their original locations 👍
Here on the West Coast, both of them are worth 100/ton, the wheels would be about $25 each (×8), an I don't know for sure, but I bet the Catalytic converters are worth a grand or more......
Best advice you're gonna get Waldo... 😜
Can you retrofit the sensors from the Rover engine to the GM LS or Toyota 5.7L engine for the Rover electronics? Use the GM or Toyota ECM to run the engine. I know this sounds easier than it really is, but it may solve some of the issues with the conversion.
Drive it and enjoy it! Change the oil a few more times before the adventure begins!
I still vote 6.5 diesel swap. The 6.2/6.5 is a very underrated swap. Its light, mechanically simple and there is tons of parts available.
Waldo'😅s a great mechanic! I'm impressed!
I would talk to a mechanic familiar with LR vehicles, and pick his brain on what might be the cause of the aluminum.
These cars are like women, hard to tell what they'll do next.
LR3 (Discovery 3 everywhere else in the world) is a great truck! I think it was probably the most reliable Land Rover product for many years. I had one and the only thing that went wrong with the rear view mirror came off the windshield right 3 days after I bought it brand new. By the way all that fancy trash control and yaha control ..yeah that doesn't matter on ice. It won't save you. Especially if there's a layer of thin snow on top of it and you can't see the ice underneath it. And the fancy street tires they put on them limit your off-road capability. But otherwise great comfortable and generally reliable vehicles. (LR3) only
Hey! Thanks for this awesome video. Love the project and your format. I don’t think you should swap an LS into it, better to get this or a similar/newer engine. If you wanna go crazy with it, maybe convert it an EV?
EV swap!
Yes! Ev swap would be sick
Rule #1 in mechanics. No replacement for displacement. Go LS or don’t go.
I remember you said you would not be another failed youtuber with a broken Range Rover, so please don't be! Really liking this content, it also brought me to your channel :) All the way from Belgium
Never ever ever ever ever buy used Range Rovers or Jags. Lol
Truer words have never been spoken!
PJmac. After I had my chain guides changed I drained oil and dropped oil pan.Found a lot of plastic from old guides and some metal shaving.Also oil pick up strainer was partially blocked with plastic from guides.I changed oil three times over a couple of weeks.Oil filter had no particles of anything.Its been four years, runs well.
Buy a nice boat and use the car as an anchor……
youre on the right track, bring it to spec and enjoy. i had the BMW engine in a RR 04. MAJOR COOLING ISSUES HEAD GASKET 100K PLUS. IT WAS TOAST
I've been a mechanic most of my life seeing the damage from those broken vulture probably got residual aluminum still throughout the engine you only drove the vehicle 10 miles you said so that wasn't enough time to flush everything loose plus you're going to have some transfer from the new components you put in there from what I can tell on your videos the engine sounds really well I wouldn't worry about it I just drive it put some liquid Moly anti friction oil treatment you can find on Amazon for about 10 bucks a can I nearly get mine at Napa for around $14
Agree with some other comments. My experience as well has been new metal internal parts you will see metal shavings. Could be all the metal in the system from before finally getting some good servicing and breaking it all loose.
Hey Waldo, why not do an EV conversion? If you haven't done one before it could be a nice change :)
Those timing chains flapping around in there make a lot of aluminum shrapnel.. you'll be picking aluminum out of your filter for three more oil changes then shell be all fixed... only way to get it all in a hurry is drop the pan which is a fluster cluck on those piles of equipment
one of the worst cars ever made in the uk there are hundreds up for sale because you can't insurance them due to high levels of theft
I did one with a New timing chain and crank and cam sprockets. Metal shavings did go away after four new filters . The bolt that was rattling around would add even more shavings to clear all the oil channels. Before your trip use Liqui Moly Ceratec.
The lesson is DONT buy anything British.
I once had an 1978 MGB. It constantly had electrical problems. I was telling a British friend about all the electrical problems I was having and he told me a joke that was relevant. "Why do British people drink warm beer? Because they have Lucas refrigerators" :o)
AH SNAP! i've done the same mistake with my 1996 volvo 940. The issue with engine cleaners is that they do more harm than good if used the easy way. Ideally we should've both taken the oil pan out, thoroughly cleaned it, then added some expensable oil with the engine cleaner followed by at least 2 oil changes. By cleaning the sump first you ensure 90% of the rubbish has been removed and won't go swirling around all the friction points such as crankshaft bearings etc. Then that way you only clean and dislocate any residue from oil passages and the rest of the engine which you'd want to flush out after 500 miles or so. If the oil and filter don't look too bad then you're good to put fresh good quality oil and filters in until the next oil change. As every one else mentioned keep at it until it's clean, perhaps at the next oil change once you've drained the old oil put the sump plug back on and pour a quart of oil in the engine, then flush that as well, hopefully the fresh oil will drain a good amount of stuff in your sump, you could even run it through a cloth or towel to see if it actually carried some shavings with it. Best of luck Waldo. If you were to engine swap it why not consider the 4.4TDV8 or the smaller 3.6TDV8 or even the L405 4.4 v8 turbo diesel V8 engine from the newer 2012 onwards range rovers? They're all diesel torque monsters, they come with 600 to 700nm(516lbft) from factory, if you re map them they go up to 1000nm(737lbft) or more.
Keep working on it,don't give up,it has potential.
Hats off to you brother that repair looked like a nightmare!!!!
You should take the pan off to check that as well as check the oil pickup from the pan.
Your work ethic and attention to detail is great!! Keep up the great work and content. Good luck on your trip.
Great channel. I'm really happy that TH-cam put you in my suggestions. Once in a while TH-cam gets it right.
Those have 2 intake pipes from factory? Idk anything about those but that's very cool.
Fellow NH guy here. Glad to be a a part of your journey
The bolts left behind after the job is done, are called shoulder bolts! Toss them over your shoulder and job well done!
love the soundtrack you use for your videos reminds me of watching a weekend PBS program