Screws back out because people overdriving them with impact guns instead of using a clutch. When they are overdriven the rubber washer can no longer provide the give needed when the panels expand and contract. Thus reaming out the hole they’re driven into b
They will anyway because the rubber detiorates and there's no pressure against the threads to keep them from backing out. Ringshanked nails are way better than the screws now days
@@Musicdudeyoutub they definitely do leak eventually. Made this mistake of playing whack a mole with my leaks at first. The installers suck and miss purlins. Also they use the cheapest screws with paper thin washers. Best to just rescrew it every 15-20 years with the best screws you can get. I was able to do my 2000 sq ft roof in a weekend. Also the roll insulation under the metal makes it impossible to get tension right. Standing seam would be awesome. But it is just unreasonably expensive to install and add snow brakes. Also ridiculous to repair.
@PinkFZeppelin I've put a few on , and overtightening doesn't help, but they'll back out at some point because regardless of overtightening the rubber deteriorates sometimes in not so many years. Anyway you can be right if you want.
Actually the screws you’re putting as replacements are called plywood screws. They’re what’s recommended for direct plywood install. Also recommended pre drill hole through the tin and plywood before screw install. If goes on directly to plywood you better be decked 5/8 T@G or 3/4 T&G. My personal choice is 2x6 and pre drill all the sheets on the ground.
They should've been screwed through the Ridge of that design of metal sheeting. They have a Ridge at both sides of the sheet(one side is smaller to be overlapped by the next sheet.), two more Ridges(put a screw in each one of them.), then lay a new sheet up were the Ridge overlaps the smaller ridge of sheet you just screwed down. That's how that style of metal sheeting is suppose to be screwed down. There should've been 2\4's laying flat nailed/screwed to your rafters or metal C-channel(metal-constructed buildings). No need for plywood on a metal sheeted building. Next hail storm, turn it into your insurance. A couple days before they come to re-roof the building. Remove the roof tin and plywood(start at peak and work down to the eves.). As your removing the plywood, take 2-6"L(2\4's each side of the rafter every 2', then screw down new 2\4's the whole length of the building and repeat till your down to the eves. I would get the self-drill screws w/ the closer threads(like the ones you had, they look like a drill-bit at the tip, metal washer(same color as screw head)and rubber washer.). 1"L(trim) and 2"L(for the Ridge). Now the 3 flats on each metal sheet, you can screw 1- 1" screw at the center of the flat(3/4"- 1" away from the edge.), at each end of the sheets(the trim guy can do that, he should have the 1" screws.). This style of metal sheeting, corrugated-tin sheeting, nail/screw it it goes through the metal at the ridge(high point of each sheet), not the valley where water runs. I have 2 buildings 1974(40'W x 140'L x 14'H) & 1984(60'W x 120'L x 16'H) they have never had to have a sheet replace or repaired, there are no leaks. No one's been on the roof or touch either building since they were built. My cousin has 8Good luck. Blessings be upon thee
I remember 150 years ago when they nailed and screwed in through the peaks and not in the valleys, and the rooves never leaked. Well not for the last 150 years so far, even in cyclonic wind rating zones. Who knows what is going to happen in another 10 years when this roof starts leaking again.
The REAL REASON these screws back out is because the sheet metal expands and contracts more than the wood roof substructure. The longer the metal roof panels, the worse the problem. This is not an issue if the building/roof is also metal (steel). The type of metal roofing for a wood house/roof is called standing seam that uses concealed clips that don't go through the panels and allow the metal roof to expand and contract without loosening the screws that hold the clips. It is an ingenious design that is difficult to explain without pictures. I had to replace my 30 year old "through fastened" metal roof with a standing seam roof because of this problem.
Application RPM Speed Panels to wood 2,500 Panels to metal - self-drill 2,000 Panels to metal - self-tap 1,000 The use of higher drill/driver for wood applications can result in over tightening or stripping out the fastener. Attempting to install self-drilling fasteners into steel substrates with faster drills/drivers can result in fastener failure due to the points burning up. Impact drivers are NOT recommended for fastening panels. With the higher torque produced by these drivers, fasteners can be easily over driven to the point of the washer being over tightened or the fastener breaking. Additionally, the impacting action can cause excessive paint damage to the fastener heads and thread strip out.
If you are only screwing a metal roof to your roof decking you might lose your entire roof. 1x4’s or 2x4’s should be screwed into the rafters or trusses first.
Some companies use good EPDM rubber and many use poor quality which cracks, splits and rots. No way to know which you have until time takes it's toll and VERY difficult to make a claim since the rubber has no warranty. Caveat emptor.
Yes! It can be a cheap alternative to replace your entire roof, and can extend the life of a roof, I would always use new screws though and get the bigger shanked screws. Usually those have a bigger head on them as well Like 5/16” or 3/8”. Especially if it’s only screwed into plywood Which is a common mistake people make.
Failure is inevitable for all roofs. Not all metal roofing fastens like this. Because of the nature of this type, I would only use it on uninsulated buildings without roof sheathing so that I could detect the failure early. It has advantages over shingles.
@@ProctorSilexright about not all metal roofs fastening like this, the one I'm about to install you won't see any screws because they will be under the overlap.
You need a standing seam panel that mechanically sealed with butyl, and held to the roof with a movable clip system so it can flex with the temp changes.
---------------------------- imo screws need to be improved not just bigger but redesigned .... the hell w/carbon steel use stainless to make screw , w/a aluminum 'cap' instead of worthless recycled rubber washer employ industrial grade O-rings (2) seated inner n outer , cap stops screw from being over driven.....thx ....hell yea they will cost more upfront .... but over time well worth it ....(now that my brain is partially operational) ----- one screw could potentially be sealed X 3 .....as mentioned 2 o-rings on underside of flangenut plus the cap itself could have a seated o-ring as well . we need a better screw ok ....especially steel lap roofing
I agree we need better screws. Here in Tennessee the company we install for uses a 5/16 head screw that has a much better washer system than the old 1/4” head screws had The head and steel part of the washer is made into one, plus a steel and rubber washer.
1x4 or 2x4 has better holding power for.screws. Plywood is decent, osb is terrible. Ive done both direct to deck & purlins 2ft oc for metal. Both work if done correctly. Its usually old osb that gives the issues. 1/2 in plywood in good condition is OK.
In my experience you need at least 5/8” osb to be ok, And even then it’s just a matter of time before it dry rots and the screws losses up. With plywood I’ve seen screws back out as well. But that was out west. I would think 1/2” plywood would be too easy to strip out.
@plankroofing Plywood had 3x the holding power of osb and solid wood about 3x that of plywood. For standing seam the manufacturers want 3/4in plywood. Ive done standing seam over osb/plywood thinner decking but we need to run 1x4 purlins. We always recommend 2ft insulated syrofoam between purlins bc it makes the roof more servicable and efficient. The exposed fastener is a shit show bc of of folks budget. Roof over shingle is typical, it works but we cant update the nail pattern on the decking and obviously inspect all the decking. All depends on the client, budget and a number of other factors.
As someone who worked for Morton Buildings and did this everyday I can say you're just doing it wrong. There's thousands of Buildings across the US with decked roofs directly on the plywood. If you can't hit the purlin putting your roof screws in then you're terrible at your job.
I would never understand Americans and their fascination with wood. 2 x 4 H beams, z purlins and new wave sheets. You put your screws on the rib to prevent leaks. That roof will last you 30 or 40 plus years before the screws go bad
You must put the screws through the ribs to allow for expansion and contraction of the roof sheet. Putting the screws through the tray or flat of the roof sheet doesn't allow for expansion and contraction and hence the problem they have.
Interesting point. You might have a valid point there. Not sure I’ve ever heard that perspective on the matter. However you get better uplift resistance by screwing in the flat, and I’ve heard bad things about roofs screwing in the ribs. It’s a nice idea, but I’m not sure read it has as good of real world application as people think. But I could be wrong, I don’t have much experience with roofs screwed in the ribs.
That doesn't make sense since wherever you put the screws the ribs can flex. This characteristic is use to stretch the metal slight to adjust for things being slightly off square. Most manufacturers recommend screwing into the flat, so that you can't buckle the rib.
@@richdobbs6595 I could go into detail but you mention most "manufacturers"? Lysaghts being probably the largest roofing/walling manufacturers in the world have a booklet they call the Lysaghts Referee where they describe in detail roofing/wall or profiles and how they are to be fixed and what fixings to use etc. You can download this and find out what where and why. As matter of interest it isn't a matter of the ribs flexing? Regards Stewart. 17-09-24
Yes, but they are solid wood. Plywood or OSB are computes of glued together wood strands or thin sheets. Which can dry rot with heat and cause the screws to back out much much quicker, and they don’t hold screws as tight as solid wood.
@@cliffhaskett7703 yep! People think it’s better to crew in the ribs because there “less water” while that is a valid point, the fact of the matter is, you get better up-lift resistance screwing in the flat, and the screws are less likely to break off due to expansion and contraction. And if done right, with 1x4’s or 2x4’s over OSB, if you have osb or some kind of sheathing on the roof deck. nailing them into the trusses, and screwing through that. Plus Doing proper maintenance, keeping the screws tightened down every few years and replacing them every 10 years or so. Will make a roof last much longer.
I dont wanna be that guy, but the screws back out form temp change, and my roof is old and no plywoord just 1*4 and the screws backed out. it took 20 plus years for that to happen but some did. Its got nothing to do with whats below the roof, its the shrinking and expansion from hot and cold. btw I was building houses when this op was in his dads bag. furthermore its code almost everywhere to screw into the ridge of the metal roof. Bro you need to grow as a contractor in a massive way before you u make another video.
Not in pencil rib, flat of panel, mastic tape on lap screw on dry side of mastic, any manufacturer worth their salt shows in prints how washer should look, standing seam all day long given my choice, allows for expansion and contraction
To be bruitily honest I don't think you should be using the those sheets as roof sheets. To me they would be more suitable for wall cladding. You would be right to a point about up lift. A roof profile with more ribs would be much stronger, something like corrugated iron or Trimdek where the screws go through the ribs. All roof profiles are rolled from the same width coil sheeting so why not use corrugated sheets which are ultimately stronger and look better. Screwed properly, if they blow off they will take the entire roof structure with them. Lysaghts being the largest roofing manufacturer in the world have a booklet called the Lysaght's Referee which mentions all profiles of roofing, cladding and fixings.
But I’ll bet you it didn’t happen as fast. Most people don’t maintain their metal roofs. If the screws would be tightened every few years and replaced every 8-10 years they would last a lot longer. Plywood/osb not only doesn’t hold as good but it also dry rots, allowing screws to back out quicker then anything else. That’s my theory. And I’ve been doing roofing for about 10 years.
What kind of skills I got??? I'm pretty good with a bo staff and i am exceptional at identifying holes... Wait right here while I go grab my numchucks.... 😐
@@solarsynapse because all water go down on flat part. I have asbestos roof on my house. It's basically same like this roof. All screws was on the ribs. After 40 years roof was in very bad shape. Screws were damaged. Lots of cracks on the ribs. But no leaking. I remove that and put metal roof. All screws I put on the ribs. Nothing on flat part. Two years and still no problems. And don't expect any. I live in the area with strong winds and hot summers.
@@busnorthFastener Specifications: Roof: Screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface of the panel between the ribs. Wall: Screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface between ribs. Screwing of Steel Panels Roof Sheets -Use 2" Wood Grip screws on rib top or 1" screws in the flat. Peak & Eave of roof sheets -Use 1" Wood Grip screws installed in the flat surface Wall sheets -Use 1" Wood Grip screws installed in the flat surface
Hey Brandon how much water travels down the top of the rib? How much water travels down the flat? Plus, 5v crimp the over lap seam is at the rib so you screw through both sheets.
What you really gotta do is stop installing metal roofs with exposed screws… every exposed screw is now going to act as a straw pulling water right into the the building 🤦♂️…learn the actual craft of hidden cleats and straps as well as double locking everything together. A metal roof done properly installed on plywood should last 50-75 years. The plywood isn’t your problem it’s the roofer!
I have no volume im in the factory whats the point of the video? Use bigger screws and more quality rubber sealant band in those screws and attach them to bigger beams in the structure? I guess its that
Wrong. The emphasis should be on hitting the rafters/truss angles for perlings and the torque put down on the screw regardless. Dont listen to your neighbor, dude. Go learn
I’m not sure what you’re saying. Doesn’t really make sense. But This roof metal was laid straight on top of OSB which is a recipe for disaster and is not recommended No Perlins either just OSB. Hence most of the screws were backing out and needed replacing. And even then it was too late for lots of them. The decking was to rotted out already.
@@JonathanCarroll3579 I don’t think it matters. But you need something on top for extra holding strength for the screws. Either 1x4’s or 2x4’s every 2’
@@plankroofing ply has a better holding strength for screws than shid board. Was wondering because a client had me put ply for a deck roof decking instead of the purlins I was going to, guess his prior contractor used just plywood so that's what he wanted done. Customer always happy till they have to pay more later to fix what coulda been right into the first place.
I believe that on a roof your screws should be on the rib and not on the flat between the ribs where the water runs. Water does not run on the ribs. On the walls it's ok to put the screws on the flat between the ribs.
All I was doing is replacing screws on an old roof, I know some people don’t like to use impacts but that’s fine, I understand a drill doesn’t wear the paint off the screw heads. Is that what you don’t like them?
This is why I hate metal roofs. You are punching a hole in your roof and closing it with a little rubber o rings stupid. It will leak and it will crap out, at those failure points.
I never put screws in the valley where the water runs, always use longer screws on the peaks.
Metal manufacturers now will void your warranty if you screw the highs
@GavinKeller-u5v In which country is this the case Gavin ?
@@GavinKeller-u5vdon't need the warranty if you screw the peaks.😉
I so that on the seams. I'm starting to see more installers doing it. Makes sense since it see less water action.
I just watched a video that said to do just the opposite and gave several reasons for it.
Screws back out because people overdriving them with impact guns instead of using a clutch. When they are overdriven the rubber washer can no longer provide the give needed when the panels expand and contract. Thus reaming out the hole they’re driven into b
They leak anyway eventually.. better to screw on top of the ribs, or better yet.. use standing seam instead
They will anyway because the rubber detiorates and there's no pressure against the threads to keep them from backing out. Ringshanked nails are way better than the screws now days
@@TommyMarler You install AG roofing with ring shanks?? :o
@@Musicdudeyoutub they definitely do leak eventually. Made this mistake of playing whack a mole with my leaks at first. The installers suck and miss purlins. Also they use the cheapest screws with paper thin washers. Best to just rescrew it every 15-20 years with the best screws you can get. I was able to do my 2000 sq ft roof in a weekend.
Also the roll insulation under the metal makes it impossible to get tension right.
Standing seam would be awesome. But it is just unreasonably expensive to install and add snow brakes. Also ridiculous to repair.
@PinkFZeppelin I've put a few on , and overtightening doesn't help, but they'll back out at some point because regardless of overtightening the rubber deteriorates sometimes in not so many years. Anyway you can be right if you want.
the trusty ol 3/16 wooden dowels drive into hole then break off put new screw in .
Actually the screws you’re putting as replacements are called plywood screws. They’re what’s recommended for direct plywood install. Also recommended pre drill hole through the tin and plywood before screw install. If goes on directly to plywood you better be decked 5/8 T@G or 3/4 T&G. My personal choice is 2x6 and pre drill all the sheets on the ground.
They should've been screwed through the Ridge of that design of metal sheeting. They have a Ridge at both sides of the sheet(one side is smaller to be overlapped by the next sheet.), two more Ridges(put a screw in each one of them.), then lay a new sheet up were the Ridge overlaps the smaller ridge of sheet you just screwed down. That's how that style of metal sheeting is suppose to be screwed down. There should've been 2\4's laying flat nailed/screwed to your rafters or metal C-channel(metal-constructed buildings). No need for plywood on a metal sheeted building. Next hail storm, turn it into your insurance. A couple days before they come to re-roof the building. Remove the roof tin and plywood(start at peak and work down to the eves.). As your removing the plywood, take 2-6"L(2\4's each side of the rafter every 2', then screw down new 2\4's the whole length of the building and repeat till your down to the eves. I would get the self-drill screws w/ the closer threads(like the ones you had, they look like a drill-bit at the tip, metal washer(same color as screw head)and rubber washer.). 1"L(trim) and 2"L(for the Ridge). Now the 3 flats on each metal sheet, you can screw 1- 1" screw at the center of the flat(3/4"- 1" away from the edge.), at each end of the sheets(the trim guy can do that, he should have the 1" screws.). This style of metal sheeting, corrugated-tin sheeting, nail/screw it it goes through the metal at the ridge(high point of each sheet), not the valley where water runs. I have 2 buildings 1974(40'W x 140'L x 14'H) & 1984(60'W x 120'L x 16'H) they have never had to have a sheet replace or repaired, there are no leaks. No one's been on the roof or touch either building since they were built. My cousin has 8Good luck. Blessings be upon thee
You just spared me a lot of headaches. Much appreciated.
Should screws be in peak of roofing not valleys? roof won't leak on peaks
I remember 150 years ago when they nailed and screwed in through the peaks and not in the valleys, and the rooves never leaked.
Well not for the last 150 years so far, even in cyclonic wind rating zones.
Who knows what is going to happen in another 10 years when this roof starts leaking again.
i was wondering the same thing valleys hold more water the peaks is simple geometry
They will back out of 2xs too. I've replaced a bunch of them. If I ever put another on mine it will be seemless or shingles.
The REAL REASON these screws back out is because the sheet metal expands and contracts more than the wood roof substructure. The longer the metal roof panels, the worse the problem. This is not an issue if the building/roof is also metal (steel). The type of metal roofing for a wood house/roof is called standing seam that uses concealed clips that don't go through the panels and allow the metal roof to expand and contract without loosening the screws that hold the clips. It is an ingenious design that is difficult to explain without pictures. I had to replace my 30 year old "through fastened" metal roof with a standing seam roof because of this problem.
Application RPM Speed
Panels to wood 2,500
Panels to metal - self-drill 2,000
Panels to metal - self-tap 1,000
The use of higher drill/driver for wood applications can result in over tightening or stripping out the
fastener. Attempting to install self-drilling fasteners into steel substrates with faster drills/drivers can
result in fastener failure due to the points burning up.
Impact drivers are NOT recommended for fastening panels. With the higher torque produced by
these drivers, fasteners can be easily over driven to the point of the washer being over tightened or
the fastener breaking. Additionally, the impacting action can cause excessive paint damage to the
fastener heads and thread strip out.
They probably used an impact, I prefer a drill with the clutch set loose.
If you are only screwing a metal roof to your roof decking you might lose your entire roof.
1x4’s or 2x4’s should be screwed into the rafters or trusses first.
@@garrimic3 I agree! But most people don’t do that! This was just an old roof I was replacing the screws on.
Depends on the roof decking. When properly fastened, 5/8" or thicker plywood should be sufficient.
@@plankroofingworks for me. No one said you don't need to inspect and replace screws over time.
Some companies use good EPDM rubber and many use poor quality which cracks, splits and rots. No way to know which you have until time takes it's toll and VERY difficult to make a claim since the rubber has no warranty. Caveat emptor.
Your knowledge and advice much appreciated. About to install my first metal roof on a pergola.
Good stuff
I caulked every single screw on mine. It’s time consuming but well worth the effort.
Yes! It can be a cheap alternative to replace your entire roof, and can extend the life of a roof, I would always use new screws though and get the bigger shanked screws. Usually those have a bigger head on them as well
Like 5/16” or 3/8”.
Especially if it’s only screwed into plywood
Which is a common mistake people make.
Do NOT use silicone because it is a one-way trip. I like Through The Roof sealant.
What caulk did you use?
That’s a good tip jimmy👍
I had no idea metal roofs were fastened so simply, relying on rubber washers compressed by screws. Seems to me like failure is inevitable.
That is why you screw into the ribs, which shed water.
Failure is inevitable for all roofs.
Not all metal roofing fastens like this.
Because of the nature of this type, I would only use it on uninsulated buildings without roof sheathing so that I could detect the failure early. It has advantages over shingles.
@@ProctorSilexright about not all metal roofs fastening like this, the one I'm about to install you won't see any screws because they will be under the overlap.
an afternoon replacing screws every 15 years isnt bad
Ur simple
Either that or someone used an impact and stripped most of them. I use the 1.5" long screws but I'm careful not to strip them.
I love impact guns but they make guys too lazy. Clutched drills exist for a reason, wood strips easy is that damn reason!
You need a standing seam panel that mechanically sealed with butyl, and held to the roof with a movable clip system so it can flex with the temp changes.
Nice tip I built my shed with 2x3s but didn’t know this . 👍👍 🙏
Make sure your screws aren't to long..sweating will cause raining in structure
Yep! I use 1×4's and I'm careful to not strip the screws.
Gotta be careful not to over drive them, i used a set of cheap 12v drills for roof jobs
Underlayment gaf peel and stick
Should the screws be in the flat? I have 5V tin and put the screws or nails in the raised Vs
Always in the flat .On the new metal
Thanks for the tip!
Should have concealed brackets on each longitudinal seam holding the roof down, not with screws through the roof.
How old is it?
yes! im glad you said that! im doing 2x4s
I'm starting this project shed this week, and you just saved me
Most times also why they don’t hold up is the rafters aren’t proper vented. Insulation just stuffed right in tight and no cold air flow.
That's the mistake i made on my dad's roof. Thought i was doing it good but it all had to be taken off and redone. Now i know better
Thank you! I might have done just that!
If screwing into 1x4s does the screw still back out over time?
I think eventually it will. But definitely not as quick.
However you decide to install it, when you consider sun, heat, cold, wind....eventually the washers dryrot and metal moves....its called mainten.ance
Standing seam roofing is a much better option, no scews thru roofing panels and far stronger
Twice the price tho!
Put on high rib...if done correctly it's way better
Manufacturers do not recommend perlins anymore.
Once the holes don’t except any size screws use some wood filler material, I used wood skewers and cut them with dikes and the screw’s worked again
---------------------------- imo screws need to be improved not just bigger but redesigned .... the hell w/carbon steel use stainless to make screw , w/a aluminum 'cap' instead of worthless recycled rubber washer employ industrial grade O-rings (2) seated inner n outer , cap stops screw from being over driven.....thx ....hell yea they will cost more upfront .... but over time well worth it ....(now that my brain is partially operational) ----- one screw could potentially be sealed X 3 .....as mentioned 2 o-rings on underside of flangenut plus the cap itself could have a seated o-ring as well . we need a better screw ok ....especially steel lap roofing
I agree we need better screws.
Here in Tennessee the company we install for uses a 5/16 head screw that has a much better washer system than the old 1/4” head screws had
The head and steel part of the washer is made into one, plus a steel and rubber washer.
You're getting close to standing seem price then. The junk they sell now is double priced
1x4 or 2x4 has better holding power for.screws. Plywood is decent, osb is terrible. Ive done both direct to deck & purlins 2ft oc for metal. Both work if done correctly. Its usually old osb that gives the issues. 1/2 in plywood in good condition is OK.
In my experience you need at least 5/8” osb to be ok,
And even then it’s just a matter of time before it dry rots and the screws losses up.
With plywood I’ve seen screws back out as well. But that was out west.
I would think 1/2” plywood would be too easy to strip out.
@plankroofing Plywood had 3x the holding power of osb and solid wood about 3x that of plywood. For standing seam the manufacturers want 3/4in plywood. Ive done standing seam over osb/plywood thinner decking but we need to run 1x4 purlins. We always recommend 2ft insulated syrofoam between purlins bc it makes the roof more servicable and efficient. The exposed fastener is a shit show bc of of folks budget. Roof over shingle is typical, it works but we cant update the nail pattern on the decking and obviously inspect all the decking. All depends on the client, budget and a number of other factors.
So what screw should I use for metal sheets to wood? I’m replacing a roof next week
The screws are going to back out its thermal expansion
Lets be honest. Screws are not 100% watertight, and if they are they won't be later. Really considering standing seem on my build.
Wow I didn't know that that's good advice about the plywood hand using the better screws
What size are those replacement screws?
The head is 5/16” and I’m not sure what the shank sizes I just know it’s bigger
Screw in the flat, in the purlins. Don't overtighten screws.
I don't understand what good is a longer than 3/4" screw in OSB or plywood or is this.
Thsnk you.
Stick a little metal shaving in the hole if the screw doesn’t hold
A toothpick or two. Can dowse with CA to harden the wood.
Lap on the metal is wrong too
Some screwed in the ridge less water down the ridge than in the valley
I never use 1/4 screws on metal roofs. I use the next size up. 5/16?
I never knew that. Plywood just doesnt hold em? weird.
I guess its not real thick though
As someone who worked for Morton Buildings and did this everyday I can say you're just doing it wrong. There's thousands of Buildings across the US with decked roofs directly on the plywood. If you can't hit the purlin putting your roof screws in then you're terrible at your job.
I wonder what the purpose with your rope is, you will be on the ground long time before it's holding you, as it should.
Safety first!
I would never understand Americans and their fascination with wood. 2 x 4 H beams, z purlins and new wave sheets. You put your screws on the rib to prevent leaks. That roof will last you 30 or 40 plus years before the screws go bad
Screws are to be put in the rib of the steel roof by manufacturer instructions.
This prevents his problem
They never leak when put in the rib.
The manufacturer guides for the roof I installed specify to place screws next to ribs not in them except the ridge cap is screwed into every rib
You must put the screws through the ribs to allow for expansion and contraction of the roof sheet. Putting the screws through the tray or flat of the roof sheet doesn't allow for expansion and contraction and hence the problem they have.
Interesting point. You might have a valid point there. Not sure I’ve ever heard that perspective on the matter.
However you get better uplift resistance by screwing in the flat, and I’ve heard bad things about roofs screwing in the ribs.
It’s a nice idea, but I’m not sure read it has as good of real world application as people think.
But I could be wrong, I don’t have much experience with roofs screwed in the ribs.
@@plankroofing What do you mean by "ribs"? The trusses or the purlins? Thanks.
That doesn't make sense since wherever you put the screws the ribs can flex. This characteristic is use to stretch the metal slight to adjust for things being slightly off square. Most manufacturers recommend screwing into the flat, so that you can't buckle the rib.
@@plankroofing better uplift protection with standing seam especially when mechanically seamed, rated for 150 mph, Easter LI
@@richdobbs6595 I could go into detail but you mention most "manufacturers"? Lysaghts being probably the largest roofing/walling manufacturers in the world have a booklet they call the Lysaghts Referee where they describe in detail roofing/wall or profiles and how they are to be fixed and what fixings to use etc. You can download this and find out what where and why. As matter of interest it isn't a matter of the ribs flexing?
Regards Stewart. 17-09-24
Are the 2x4s not also made of wood?
@@bobgillis1137 2x4s are solid for a strong "bite". Plywood, or even worse OSB, is a laminate that screws can pull out of with repeated high stress.
Yes, but they are solid wood. Plywood or OSB are computes of glued together wood strands or thin sheets.
Which can dry rot with heat and cause the screws to back out much much quicker, and they don’t hold screws as tight as solid wood.
@@plankroofingnever knew that.
I think ray charles screwed off the roof the first time
Ouch! Use the ribs, don't use he valley...
Age old debate.
Ribs or flats.
@@cliffhaskett7703 yep! People think it’s better to crew in the ribs because there “less water” while that is a valid point, the fact of the matter is, you get better up-lift resistance screwing in the flat, and the screws are less likely to break off due to expansion and contraction.
And if done right, with 1x4’s or 2x4’s over OSB, if you have osb or some kind of sheathing on the roof deck. nailing them into the trusses, and screwing through that.
Plus Doing proper maintenance, keeping the screws tightened down every few years and replacing them every 10 years or so. Will make a roof last much longer.
I dont wanna be that guy, but the screws back out form temp change, and my roof is old and no plywoord just 1*4 and the screws backed out. it took 20 plus years for that to happen but some did.
Its got nothing to do with whats below the roof, its the shrinking and expansion from hot and cold.
btw I was building houses when this op was in his dads bag.
furthermore its code almost everywhere to screw into the ridge of the metal roof.
Bro you need to grow as a contractor in a massive way before you u make another video.
Use longer screws on top of the tall ribs on the roofing or your begging for leaks
Not in pencil rib, flat of panel, mastic tape on lap screw on dry side of mastic, any manufacturer worth their salt shows in prints how washer should look, standing seam all day long given my choice, allows for expansion and contraction
Is that Street MD?
??
Sounds like: use perlings and corrugated panels.
To be bruitily honest I don't think you should be using the those sheets as roof sheets. To me they would be more suitable for wall cladding. You would be right to a point about up lift. A roof profile with more ribs would be much stronger, something like corrugated iron or Trimdek where the screws go through the ribs. All roof profiles are rolled from the same width coil sheeting so why not use corrugated sheets which are ultimately stronger and look better. Screwed properly, if they blow off they will take the entire roof structure with them. Lysaghts being the largest roofing manufacturer in the world have a booklet called the Lysaght's Referee which mentions all profiles of roofing, cladding and fixings.
I downloaded the Lysaght "Referee" pdf. 35th edition. Thanks for the info!
I have 2x4s...... that my roofing is screwed to..... still have the same problem 😂
But I’ll bet you it didn’t happen as fast. Most people don’t maintain their metal roofs. If the screws would be tightened every few years and replaced every 8-10 years they would last a lot longer. Plywood/osb not only doesn’t hold as good but it also dry rots, allowing screws to back out quicker then anything else.
That’s my theory. And I’ve been doing roofing for about 10 years.
@@plankroofingunderlayment and ice and water should help the pan not dry rot but if they have 1x decking + osb it adds more to fasten onto
Run a screw into osb or plywood and run one into 2x4. Take a hammer and tell me which one is easier to pull out.
What kind of skills I got??? I'm pretty good with a bo staff and i am exceptional at identifying holes... Wait right here while I go grab my numchucks.... 😐
yes to new purlins but dont fix in the pan 😂 thats where you guys go wrong
G-rib is just a crap option. Use standing seam
May be crap but it is half the price of seamless
@rjhinnj okay so you pay for it now or later when it leaks. What is the difference? That makes no sense to me.
I see screws in the ribs too.. that's part of the problem
Why? Even if screw are damaged you don't have leaking if screw is on peak
@@zeljkomikulicic4378 How so? That requires longer screws and more precise torque for the proper washer seal tension.
@@solarsynapse because all water go down on flat part. I have asbestos roof on my house. It's basically same like this roof. All screws was on the ribs. After 40 years roof was in very bad shape. Screws were damaged. Lots of cracks on the ribs. But no leaking. I remove that and put metal roof. All screws I put on the ribs. Nothing on flat part. Two years and still no problems. And don't expect any. I live in the area with strong winds and hot summers.
I was taught from my father, try to screw in to peaks. Also, it voids manufacturer warranties. I aways use 1x4 over 2x4 or 6.
@@busnorthFastener Specifications:
Roof: Screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface of the panel between the ribs.
Wall: Screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface between ribs.
Screwing of Steel Panels
Roof Sheets -Use 2" Wood Grip screws on rib top or 1" screws in the flat.
Peak & Eave of roof sheets -Use 1" Wood Grip screws installed in the flat surface
Wall sheets -Use 1" Wood Grip screws installed in the flat surface
And don't use an impact and smash the washers!!
The screws should be installed on the rib ,versus the flat
Yes, it is common sense.
No.
Hey Brandon how much water travels down the top of the rib? How much water travels down the flat? Plus, 5v crimp the over lap seam is at the rib so you screw through both sheets.
What you really gotta do is stop installing metal roofs with exposed screws… every exposed screw is now going to act as a straw pulling water right into the the building 🤦♂️…learn the actual craft of hidden cleats and straps as well as double locking everything together. A metal roof done properly installed on plywood should last 50-75 years. The plywood isn’t your problem it’s the roofer!
I have no volume im in the factory whats the point of the video? Use bigger screws and more quality rubber sealant band in those screws and attach them to bigger beams in the structure? I guess its that
Yes!
I am not a big fan of metal roofs, period.
I like the looks of singles better.
Why didn't you just get the blind man back that put them in?
This is not the way to do it...😢
Wrong. The emphasis should be on hitting the rafters/truss angles for perlings and the torque put down on the screw regardless. Dont listen to your neighbor, dude. Go learn
I’m not sure what you’re saying. Doesn’t really make sense.
But This roof metal was laid straight on top of OSB which is a recipe for disaster and is not recommended
No Perlins either just OSB.
Hence most of the screws were backing out and needed replacing.
And even then it was too late for lots of them. The decking was to rotted out already.
@@plankroofingso osb not plywood makes since then
@@JonathanCarroll3579 I don’t think it matters. But you need something on top for extra holding strength for the screws. Either 1x4’s or 2x4’s every 2’
@@plankroofing ply has a better holding strength for screws than shid board. Was wondering because a client had me put ply for a deck roof decking instead of the purlins I was going to, guess his prior contractor used just plywood so that's what he wanted done. Customer always happy till they have to pay more later to fix what coulda been right into the first place.
Why are you using an impact?
👍
Perfect roofing material ruined by a stoopid design.
That kind of tin on a roof is garbage!
Exposed faster roofing is stupid
I believe that on a roof your screws should be on the rib and not on the flat between the ribs where the water runs. Water does not run on the ribs. On the walls it's ok to put the screws on the flat between the ribs.
Guy you’re hacking up metal roofing with an impact and acting like you know something 😆
All I was doing is replacing screws on an old roof, I know some people don’t like to use impacts but that’s fine, I understand a drill doesn’t wear the paint off the screw heads. Is that what you don’t like them?
This is why I hate metal roofs. You are punching a hole in your roof and closing it with a little rubber o rings stupid. It will leak and it will crap out, at those failure points.
Don’t use an impact gun on that type of tuff rib tin roof… idiotic 🤦♂️
use ringed nails, they dont back out
bullshit
Bullshit
Dont screw in the gulleys, mate ..screw in ridges..
That's an opinion for sure but i agree
Um, no.
The ridges/ribs don't leak.
It's crap, we fix the tables on the airwaves and not on the dishes