Are piston rings causing oil burning? | Compression test | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 3
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- Doing a compression test to confirm or refute stuck piston ring theory.
0:00 Intro
00:14 Removing EFI fuse
00:47 Removing coil packs
1:37 Removing spark plugs
2:32 Compression test kit
3:36 Compression testing with engine cold
5:40 Compression testing with engine warm
7:15 What does it all mean?
11:02 Cleaning spark plugs
12:02 Checking and cleaning PCV valve
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this TH-cam channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Previous video in this series:
Motor Flush vs. Stuck Piston Rings: th-cam.com/video/h00tNeTEiVg/w-d-xo.html
Next video in this series:
Is it the PCV valve?: th-cam.com/video/91gMq7QYN-I/w-d-xo.html
Off to do a compression test on my engine right now! Bought the tool about 6 months ago and it's still in it's packaging. My SAAB is also burning a bit of oil. Not as much as your Toyota though. It has 210k miles on it and last year I fitted a refurbished head with all new valve oil seals. This improved things but still losing a bit of oil. Time to work through what else it might be. It's not the turbo as that has also been replaced with a quality refurbished unit. I've also stocked up on some Seafoam and will give the bottom up approach a try. Thanks for creating these videos. They have inpired me to get to the bottom of the issue once and for all. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment, Richard. I wish you the best with your SAAB. Sounds like you really love it. I've heard those turbo SAABs are a pleasure to drive--wait, all of them have turbos, don't they?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Good news is I have 215psi on all cylinders and the plugs are a nice biscuit colour with nice clean piston tops. I've chucked a slug of seafoam in with the oil and will run it for 300 miles and see if that improves matters. I think all the SAABS you got in the US had turbos, but here in the UK some of the lower spec models had NA engines. Mine's the top of the range Aero which has a modest tune for extra giggles!
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 doing the same thing Can't wait till further videos
Do you have that cylinder deactivation crap on your engine? Goes to V-4 or V-6 at a stop light? If so that is the oil issue.
I have the same car and problem. The problem is it was made in Fremont, California, and not Japan!
Based on your first video, and this video, the top down worked better on the pistons that were down lower and unstuck the rings in cylinder 1 and 4 and didn't in 2 and 3 so redo top down on 2 and three with the pistons.lower
Amazing warm pressure difference.
Maybe Berryman Chem Tool in the combustion chamber and soak for a few days. I use that to decrud pistons with gunked up oil control rings on my last engine rebuild. Worked wonders and it was quick too
I just picked up a 2001 Corolla with this insane oil consumption issue. I will be doing the seafoam thing soon. PS the day I purchased the car I installed a new OEM PCV valve.
So sorry, Brian. Hope you have some good results. Someone mentioned they run half a bottle of Seafoam in their Corolla crankcase all the time (not just the 300 recommended miles) and it has almost eliminated their oil consumption problem.
Update?
I have a 2000 Corolla with just over 300K trouble free miles and have some oil burning, but do NOT assume the problem is the piston rings... it may be elsewhere !
They came with that issue from factory, just upgrade new piston and rings..you will good to go..trust me
I just stumbled on this again, I see someone else mentioned Lucas. I had done that about 50k miles ago, and was fine and forgot about but now my same generation Rolla is burning about 1/4 qt like 1000+ miles, not bad and I just top off but I've got a jug of sea foam to I'm going to try it in the oil. I'm just about to turn 200k miles!
I love your approach to the compression and oil consumption issues.
Did you do the Seafoam treatment by putting it in your oil?
If not, a friend suggested not just driving normally, but doing some hard pulls. Not just that, but. Driving down some steep hills at decent revs, using compression braking in low gear. That reverses the loading on the compression and oil rings. I did both mid to high rpms up some hills in low gear, then back down a bunch of steep hills, compression braking in low gear.
Only thing I didn't do, is before and after compression tests.
Yes, my oil was dirty afterwards.
Great stuff your coming up with.
Mine is a 1988 4.3 in an S10 pickup.
I tried it in the oil, and down the spark plug holes.
How about pouring in lacquer thinner and automatic transmission fluid in the cylinders while the engine is warm and let it sit for several days topping it off as needed for several days then change the oil and filter again and see if that helps
try taking rhe I let manifold off and having g a look in there?
also add an oil catch can!
This is a late reply and I just subscribed. Have you tried Berryman for cylinder 2 and 3? I too have an oil burning Matrix.
Thanks, Peter. Haven't tried Berryman yet, but will keep that in mind.
Try Kreen engine flush , I have a 2008 Honda Accord that burns about a quart every 4k miles and I am going to try Kreen at my next oil change.
Also Ratchets and Wrenches says that Liquid Moly works for this type of thing. Might be worth a test.
Thanks for the tips, Matt!
You should put oil in and see if the compretion comes up this will tell you if its rings or valves
How so ?
@@bartsprengelmeijer4825 Adding a small amount of oil can seal the rings better, thus increasing compression.
Adding oil will not affect the valves this way.
If adding a tiny bit of oil doesn't improve compression, that would indicate a valve not sealing.
I also think that after driving it the cyls are then wet with oil, while when it was cold the oil had drained away leaving dry cyls.
My 09 Matrix is also burning oil. I will check compression as well.Then will also pour atf or mystery oil down the plug holes to soak.
Interested in hearing how that turns out, Douglas.
Followup posted yet? :)
Thank you for this update, I have noticed my Toyota 7A FE engine (1994 Celica) smoke if I push it over 2K RPM when cold...but as soon as it gets hot, I can rev it higher with no issues! However, I noticed that I burn more oil (instant huge cloud) if I accelerate after engine braking.
Did you try this test too? (Engine braking down a mountain and then accelerate). Do you see any visible smoke? Also since this is a follow up video, I assume the seafoam didn't help? Didn't you already pour it in before? Is there any thing better than seafoam to be poured into the spark plug?
I haven't tried an engine braking test like you're talking about. I might do that. The Seafoam seems to have helped some, but the oil burning is still excessive. Down from about a quart in 320 miles to a quart in 500+ miles. We'll see how these next experiments go. I was able to drive the car over 500 miles without letting it cool down to see if I burned less oil when the engine was warm. The results were surprising. I hope to publish a video on that very soon. Thanks for the comment, Ahmad!
My engine only shakes after warming up. Can someone tell me what it might be? I know there are some smart people here. The vehicle barley moves when pressing the gas, smoke or steam coming out of the exhaust pipe, etc. The water pump went bad and I replaced it. I think I had a blown head gasket. I used gasket sealer and the smoke reduced almost completely but when I first turn the vehicle on a puff of smoke comes out. No check engine light. The temperature guage does not go up enough when my scan tool shows a much higher temperature. The engine is knocking. When I remove the upstream oxygen sensors I hear something like clunking or air quickly releasing from the exhaust valve when it shouldn't, on the side that shakes the most. Thank you.
Valve clearance is tight when cold?
it's not just the PCV valve that's a problem it is the whole system; like the valve cover is part of the PCV system. It needs to be removed and cleaned
use restore and more seafoam to clean those valves.. i think that will do wonders..im a toyota guy..
my 01 corolla is starting to become a headache but i do not want to get rid of it i'd rather spend the money to fix it. thanks for your videos!!!!
I feel the same 😏
I wouldn’t discard the head gasket in between cylinder 2 and 3?
Engine oil consumption can also be as simple as a stuck closed pcv valve
True, charging7. That's why there's footage of me checking the PCV valve at the end of the video. I filmed that part this winter before doing the compression test. Thanks for the comment.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Just replace the PCV valve, there's no point in cleaning them as they still can malfunction just from age.
While the pcv valve would allow oil consumption in a open position, after the car is running, thus creating a wet piston condition, it does not tell much about the compression test that that primarily deals with valve stem seals and piston rings. Your engine valve stem, piston rings or cylinder walls are worn.
@@RayleighCriterion Another thing I learned about the PCV valve is that it is best to use an OE because the valves are calibrated to each engine.
@@RayleighCriterion yes; they are cheap to buy and easy to replace and cleaning the old one proves nothing...
I'd run MMO in the fuel to try to clean up the moving part in the cylinders.
You should try something that's based on polyetheramine/PEA such as Gumout because it's supposed to be more effective than seafoam.
I agree, seaoam was ok with non-ethanol gas, gumout should get you better results
I have been using gumout now for weeks; put one in the tank on almost every fillup, but I cant comment on how it is doing at this point, but Im glad to hear that it has that PEA thing that you mentioned, I know my cyls/ combustion chamber/ valves are dirty cause I checked them with a borescope too plus all the cyls compression are below 200psi. ; I will have to pull the head eventually, but I am seeing if I can clean it up first...
would it be a blown head gasket as you issue is with 2nd and 3rd cylinder are working together and might be some oil going though it. I once got exhaust from the compression cycle going through the hg and into the coolant causing it to pressurize. but it all depends where it is blown.
Good call-out Samer, but I don't think it is. Both my coolant and oil have no signs of one contaminating the other, and no external leaks either (to speak of). I'm pretty sure the oil drain holes in the pistons are clogged up, so the oil can't be scraped off the cylinder walls, because it has no where to go. But we'll see. Plenty more experiments to go. Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY This guy shows how the oil rings are problematic on subarus engines. Can be same issue on yours as well. It looks like it is a mission impossible to release them once they are stuck in there.... th-cam.com/video/5zKc6IAGvPc/w-d-xo.html
A leaky injector washing away the oil lube could have caused that very low cyl. ; and it may have been replaced after the damage was done, if it was not still leaking at the time of the video.
1 half week ago.i told you to try BG cleanse cleaning inside engine.BG do many things for car.
Did you change the spark plugs ?
If it burns that much oil, my guess is that the pistons oil control rings are worn out. Probably need major engine repair. it could be a big project for DIY.
If it comes down to it, we'll attempt the rings. Thanks again for the comment, Kyle!
This generation Rolla is known for this oil consumption due to stuck (not worn) piston rings. The fix is to upgrade to better pistons with better oil relief holes and rings, not just replace worn rings. Like they VVT, the rings, chain and engine are okay with frequent good oil changes, but people use cheap filters or oil or go too long and this generation is known to plug up. I saw a used Mazda once and the guy thought he 'burned oil' so he went to the old myth of using heavier grade. Then couldn't figure out the chain noise. He gunked up the timing chain tensioner so it no long provided tension, so the chain rattled on decel. I should have bought it.
Liqui moly works great, my 92 corona 1.8L burned oil not a lot but enough to make me frown. Liqui moly oil smoke stop worked great
Around 200,000 you will need valve seals. Oring on the cam can tensioner will leak. Check your pcv system. Remove the oil cap while its running and see how much blowby you have. I would try berrymans Chem dip in the cylinders as a cleaner. Change the oil and filter afterwards and check compression after you have run it and let it cool off for 24hours.
Thanks for the info and tips!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I would drain the oil first until it's completely dry. Then put a clean catch pan under the drain plug. That way whatever comes out you can keep pouring it back in.
@@ebuzek3648 that’s a great idea.
Just by seeing your plugs. Valve seals and guides
is there a product for those or just change them?
That toyota model came with pistons rings problems from factory. I used to work on bunch of them..just upgrade new piston rings a good to go
Or the rings are kind of stuck due to carbon : that goes away when the engine is hot. May be spray in a bit of wd40 and indeed let it soke for a while
doing compression test after driving ,if rings are stuck wouldnt they allow oil build up on cylinder walls causing same effect as doing a wet test on a cold engine?..... having simalar problems with my car
Entirely possible, numbre nine. Thanks for the comment.
Toluene is also a good cleaner, but you would have to change the oil after soaking the cylinders because it's a very good solvent but a very poor lubricant.
Yes it did work thanks for your knowledge 🙏
Your gauge is absolutely inaccurate
Compression should never go that high even if it's 1k miles old
Tell us more. What is the real issue?
240 lbs of compression is too high for that engine... I have a high compression 12.5:1 4 cylinder that makes juat under 215 lbs.. This isn't a high comp engine.
Very well
Carb Cleaner down spark plug holes . let it soak , crank engine without plugs , Before starting / Do NOT crank engine with liquid inside !
What is the benefit for put carb cleaner inside the cylinder?
Classic stuck rings, do exactly what you did with C form but instead get a product called “Shooterz lube“ and if you want to see how well it works take those old spark plugs and put some shooters lube on them and you’ll see a carbon off of the spark plugs. You can do the same thing for the rings.
Thank you for that, MrRoverpilot. I just looked that up and think that really might make an interesting experiment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY My Audi Q5 has over 110,000 miles and was burning over 1 qt for every 350 miles , Would get the Low oil warning light on in 350 miles . Might be 2 qts low . now uses half a qt in 10,000 miles . I introduced the shooters lube after pulling the drain plug and draining the oil , Waited until it ran through engine , poured it back on top the pistons 4 times . I also use AmsOil European formula 5W40.
also when I change the oil I drain the oil normal then pour an additional quart of fresh oil in on top with the drain plug still removed until it come out looking like fresh oil usually a single qt will do it
@@MrRoverpilot Shooters lube solvent or oil?
@@douglasberman840 solvant
@@MrRoverpilot Hey bro, so the method you used was - Drain all the oil out, then pour the lube on top the piston heads via spark plug holes, wait to drain through engine? i might try this for my audi, would the process lock up the engine in anyway?
Engine Restore will improve compression and reduce oil burning.
Hey I had an idea I used on a 53 chev. Truck. Soak cylinder in carb cleaner then use compresed air direct to cylinder on the tester hose. Blow down.
What were the results, Howard?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY had bad over fueling lots of carbon compression improved.
Try engine restore, it's an engine oil additive that helps with compression and oil consumption. It worked great on my 71 Ford. Good luck!
Thanks Eugenio. After reading this, I watched the Project Farm video on Restore. Looks promising. th-cam.com/video/Hr8jIwVyIFE/w-d-xo.html
@Tee Mack is it possible to remove the pistons from the bottom without taking off the head? I have a Toyota 7A FE oil burner
@@Shumayal Gotta pull the crank out
I heard restore make trouble on vvti. But I did at my 2001 Corolla got great results. Try Xado product it like combination of engine restore and liqud moly crate.
@@Shumayal Negative unless Crankshaft removed
Engine restore and Lucus will give you great results!!
should do a leak down test to find out the problem
Possible blown head gasket between cylinder 2 and 3
Not with 240psi on 2 and 3 guy. WATCH the video.
I will try engine flush to release the rings
I thought you partially resolved your Corolla oil burning problem by Seafoam?
I did, SunnySky. I went from burning a quart every 320 miles to about every 520 miles. Still pretty bad though ... but I'm still hopeful. Thanks for the comment.
Is there a way to test if there are worn or broken oil rings? A compression test or leak down test will probably not show the condition of the oil rings.
A leak down test would help determine of the piston rings are compromised because you would be able to remove the PCV valve and listen for any leakage emanating from the removed PCV valve opening. You would have to leave the other spark plugs in that you are not testing and you would have to be sure the piston is at TDC so that all intake/exhaust valves are closed for the cylinder being tested. Remember, this would leave several other cylinders with valves that are in a mixed state of open/close. The leaking air should follow the path of least resistance, which is past the rings and out through the PCV opening via the engine head. A leak down test may show multiple points of air escaping. If the air is coming out of the PCV opening, it indicates a potential problem of the cylinder rings. How much? Well, other issues would have to be ruled out ,like cracked head, bad head gasket, open valve when at TDC...... The whole idea behind a leakdown test is for the pressure to stabilize during the test. If the pressure doesn't stabilize, you have potential issues in potentially multiple places.
@red_887 just got a compression and leakdown test done in my 2008 2.0 mazda 3. All 180psi in all 4 cylinders, 2% leakage in 3 cylinders and around 5% in 1 but it may have been off TDC so results didn't come out bad. However, I'm burning oil 1quart per 1000km with zero smoke. There is some crankcase pressure felt when oil filler cap is opened but no smoke. Hoping it's my pcv valve but no leaks except for a bit from the valve cover gasket in the 2 middle cylinders ( less than 10000km since valve cover gasket was replaced). I'll do the gasket again too but it's an old engine at 258k km.
Hey. If you're still trying to save it, try 'piston bath' with some fuel system cleaner or oil addictive. Something has PEA in it. It's proven to clean carbon. But be sure to do research on how to soak pistons. Mishandling could lock up the engine.
Also, other youtubers see great result from liqui mody engine restore. It could be worth a try
We might try this. Thanks.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY have you tried BG EPR?
When doing a compression test if one or more cylinders comes up low immediately pour a tablespoon or two of motor oil in the cylinder via the spark plug hole and retest the compression. If the compression rises immediately then you know your rings are bad if it doesn't rise then it's your valves.
Tried it all in my 4.3 engine to no avail. I found no magic cure for unreasonable oil consumption. Did in truck valve stem seals with rope in cylinder trick and compressing valve springs, etc. nothing would cure it short of yanking engine.
Ouch. Thanks for the info!
Have you ever put a Bore scope down into.... a
nearly empty gas tank...? I'm intrested in seeing what sediments are floating around. Obviously not inserting it into fuel. My 007 Lexus IS350 has 171,400 miles. And I'm seriously considering changing the fuel filter.
Haven't tried that yet, Jeff.
Valve clearance would be my personal perspective about your issue.
too tight keeps valve open, can cause low compression
What's all the white build up on the plugs?
It's typically just called "ash," Bobby. Not sure exactly what the deposits are made of, but the whiter it is, usually the leaner the engine is running. They used to say a properly tuned engine would have "tan" electrodes on the spark plugs.
lets say its the oil holes behind the rings that are clogged up with hard crud, seafoam not dissolving it cause its temperature
hardened crud. In that case the clogged oil return holes ( behind the rings) will mean there is more oil going past the rings
into the cylinders as its not being drained back to the pan via the inside of the piston.
In that case it is possible that piston 1 and 4 might actually be the bad pistons, they are showing
high compression due to the excess oil remaining in the cylinder making a better seal at cold start.
Wheres lets say oil drain holes are still clear in cylinders 2 and 3, then less oil in the cylinder and they "appear" at start up to have low compression.
Not trying to put you off, just making suggestion to explain the results. I have been trying to clear oil drain holes a toyota eninge using seafoam in engine oil for maybe a year or more now, bottom up approach with no success, I intend to keep adding seafoam for however long it takes, using about same amount of oil you are. Its just for the sake of seeing if it will work over very long term, a bit of extra oil use means you will have clean oil all the time pretty much, cat converter though will be working pretty hard to convert all that oil via the exhaust.
I have wondered if its possible to drill out somehow the oil holes by taking off the sump
and getting access to the under side of the pistons ( rather then take out whole engine), would be really nice if there is a way to clear those holes while pistons remain in situ.
Apparently that crud is really hard after being held at high temps for long periods.
Quite a few vids showing people clearning out those holes after pistons removed.
I actually wondered the same thing. Like maybe seeing if I could get something up there, like an angled pick, to scrape them out. Thanks for the comments.
Head Gasket ruptured between cylinders 2 & 3, leaking oil and cold compression. See adjacents?
That is an interesting hypothesis. But wouldn't they have low compression whether hot or cold? And isn't it likely I'd be loosing coolant somewhere too?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Depends where the rupture is, theres the water gallery and theres the oil galley, if the HG ruptures close to the oil line craved in the head, you gonna have oil injestion into the near cylinder by the huge oil pressure you get there, especially at cold viscous oil. The expansion of the HD and the Head itself may keep the cylinder more compression sealed. JMT. I would advise you to not use Restore yet, because the metals on it will embbed in your rod bearings making things ugly and your cylinder liners are like new with crosshatches and all, not needing Restore at all. And the rings, prolly like new too. You could try moly MOS2, if it cooks around the rupture, you may cure the HG.
May I say to you that 240psi is way too high for a gas engine, ok for Diesel..1ZZ-FE is a 10:1 compression ratio, so 150psi readings are about normal...roughly. Kerosene or GM top cleaner...
The book says it should be 218 psi. My gauge is probably off. The lowest it should be according to the book is 145 psi.
Maybe it is higher than normal because of so much carbon in the combustion chamber. I'm surprised it's not detonating prematurely. If it is, the knock sensors must be retarding the ignition timing a lot in an attempt to avoid preignition.
Was this before putting Seafoam or after?
After.
actually the new plugs may prevent fouling because the old plugs may not be getting hot enough to burn off the oil if they are bad and that could be why they keep fouling. Just a thought.
It's because that 100 Shot of NOS almost blew the welds off the intake. Now you will have to rip apart the block and replace the piston rings you fried!
140psi 8:1 comp
160psi 9:1 comp
180psi 10:1 comp
200psi 11:1 comp
220psi 12:1 comp
High readings are not good either those cylinders that are high have oil contamination excessive carbon
Or the rings r just worn out cause the center cylinders usually run a little hotter
Yikes. I suppose that’s possible. Thanks for the comment.
Piston rings or piston sleeves. Been worn
Maybe you got to open your head cylinder and check the Valves and Pistons up close ...
Thanks for the comment, Lennox. Got a glimpse of the pistons in this video ... th-cam.com/video/A398v3j67Jw/w-d-xo.html
250lbs??? Something seems off about that
Like me you forgot to open the throttle while doing the compression test?
Did matter with 240psi LOL.
Valve seals! It’s not the rings your compression is fine.
Compression rings is a different thing than oil control rings. You can have good compression and still burn oil.
I got my rings unstuck ,cylinder two and three. took oil out and left oilpan bolt off,lowered the two middle cylinders all the way down,filled with gas ,and let sit 24 hrs ,then boiled water as hot as possible and poured that in the next day,and lord and behold it unstuck em.car running great now.
So no oil burning now, Eddie?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY had 90 psi compression on cylinder 2 ,,,,,,150 on cylinder 3 ,and 180 on 1 and 4.Had cylinder head redone,and checked valves while head was off with the cams on and valves were perfect.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY with the oil pan bolt off,and cylinders full of gas it was dripping pretty heavy thru the bottom.After the cleaning, their wasn't a single drop coming out of the oil pan plug.
You might want to check your brake fluid, its very dark...
Yeah. If I can get the thing to stop using oil, I'll probably flush the brake lines among some other maintenance. Thanks for the comment, Cameron!
Interesting. My 2007 Camry manual says 1 quart for 600 miles is OK. That's about what it burns until you get on the highway, then it burns 1/4 of a Quart every 2000 miles! Mine never got the new rings on a recall.
2.4 2007 Camry do have ring problems, I have one with only 112000 miles on it ...
those little fuse tools dont work well at all.
very true
Why didnt you do a wet test? Its like a mystery to me I addition to what's messed up in your car. I know you not a mechanic but you could try changing a few seals on the top of the crank case. It's a 20 min job if your plugs are wet and tips of coils are wet that's a big sign you oil is being lost there also if not entirely.
Check pcv
Empty the engine oil out, put 3/4 back in, then put a 1/4 of diesel in. That will act as a flush, cleaner , all whilst lubricating everything.
Not today's Diesel. It's so stripped out of oil, not even funny. Old Diesel was a great solvent cleaner. Now this low sulfur on road crap is terrible for cleaning carbon, compared to old Diesel. I still use Diesel to clean oily greasy parts. Nothing better nor cheaper.
Italian tune up?
It's an interesting idea. I actually flogged it quite a bit after the last oil change to see if that would make a difference. Didn't seem to. Near the end of this video by Engineering Explained, he mentions blow-by being increased by the Italian tune-up which could actually cause more deposits to form th-cam.com/video/5C9Ie4BcYew/w-d-xo.html But it's certainly another thing to consider/debate.
they need replacing for sure
Do a leak down
Don’t assume. Do the wet compression test when cold anyway.
stuck valves my friend holy molly 250 psi is near to blowing your motor
you need to heat soak seafoam in your throttle body immediately
you need to heatsoak with seafoam before your engine blows man. Trust me it will work
@@HerbZilla Seafoam is a joke. This guys does a video on it. So many others prove it too. Rislone and GM AC Delco engine treatment are the best.
Dona leak down test it will tell you if it’s piston or valve
look up kano labs kreen. do a piston soak. add it to the oil and the fuel.
Interesting stuff. I see that it's illegal in California ... must be pretty good ;-)
you are WAY WAY overdue for spark plug replacement. the saving you get from not replacing costs more on fuel consumption.
Pull the engine, and put new rings in.
Riiiight. Car is not worth that guy.
THOSE PLUGS SAY WORN OUT RINGS
If you are noticing blue smoke from the exhaust, it means your engine is burning oil due to an oil leak. This symptom could be the result of a leaking valve seal or a problem with a piston ring. That escaped oil can then mix with the fuel and burn as the fuel burns. Therefore it doesn't look like you have that problem with your compression rings or oil rings. Those spark plugs looked very bad. Stop being cheap and change the spark plugs, PVC valve and also check your valve cover and oil pan for oil leaks. It"s a good chance your loosing oil from those area and not burning oil.
Kano Labs Kreen
Is a waste of money.
Buy a new PCV valve and install it and skip testing the old one or cleaning it. The click may be there and the PCV valve still not working right...Low cost and simple to do. Do NOT assume the problem is the piston rings (3rd one down) but instead the valve seals (2 in and 2 out on a 4 cylinder small engine like a Corolla or Civic or other small engine... Some chemicals may be a lot cheaper than 'fixing the problem' ... and awful non-music, BTW.
your compression should stay the same weather the motor is hot or cold. the rings need to be replace and probably the pistons as well have skirt damage and wear.
I'm sorry you have to face it that engine is shot get it out of there
Those cars are too ugly to bother with swapping in another engine . i would just get rid of it .
Spray a touch of silicone lubricant on those plastic coil connectors.
Thanks for the tip!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I'm a fan of the permatex brand
Go and get yourself a bag of onion rings!
The solution is sell it
Or do the right things as he is by fixing it proper. Don't pass it along to someone else. No integrity guy......
@@jimdavidson5208 Yes, if it is a worthy car. Corolla 1998-2002 is not worth to be fixed. It is basically junk, crusty interior, crusty rusty body, and it just has no value. It is meant to be in junkyard anyway as a scarp metal. Civic or Sentra at that period is much better. The 2003 - 2008 Corolla is a legend, very durable and much better quality interior and rust protection too. In the market 1992-1997 Corolla worth more than 98-02 Corolla even without VVTI.
Wasting your time. The only thing that will fix it is rings and drill out oil holes under oil rings or replace pistons. Trust me, I know
Sell it and buy a Honda or Acura