Repotting Japanese wind orchids, Neofinetia falcata
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Please visit us at: botanyboy.org/ This tutorial covers the basics for repotting the Japanese wind orchid, Neofinetia falcata, using traditional materials and methods. The plant is cleaned and then wrapped in long fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss. Find out how you too can be successful repotting these beautiful orchids.
Ive watched your vidoes so much.. theres something so calming about your voice and the way you narrate.
Very nicely done and well explained throughout! Thank you!
This is the bet re-potting I've seen on youtube, no extra gibble-gabble, straight to the point.
Thanks! Short and to the point was my goal. I'll have another one out soon about using baskets for "unruly" species.
Thank you for this wonderfully illustrated video. I have just purchased 3 Neofinetia Falcata. Going to look for some pots now.
Watch out, Neos are seriously addictive. Have fun!
Thanks for the interesting and informative video. It looks so easy when you do it, but didn't work that well when I tried last year, but I didn't have that long fibered sphagnum moss. I used regular sphagnum and tied it with string. One problem I had is that so much algae grew on the sphagnum ball, that it didn't absorb water well enough afterwards. My plant is a cross of neofinetia falcata with something else. The name of the cross is Vandachostylis Charm. So it doesn't have exactly the same requirements but can be grown the same way. I got tired of the algae and potted it in bark, and I will see how it likes it this year.
Potting this way is a bit tricky and virtually impossible unless you have moss strands at least as long as your hand. It is also unnecessary to grow them in sphagnum - that's just how they are grown here. They do well mounted or potted in a very free draining mix. They need a lot of air movement around their roots, just like tropical Vandas and Ascocentrums. They definitely don't like soggy roots 24/7. I wonder where the algae came from though. I sometimes get algae in my moss balls, but not a lot.
Thank you so much. Excellent tutoring! Just discovered your channel. Best instruction !
Great video,
Luckily, here in New York we don't have to be so concerned with the inner cavity. The air here is so dry in the winter that I find it to be unnecessary. Actually, those slotted pots are a problem as they allow the moss to dry too quickly. Fancy Fukiran pots work just fine.
Cheers,
Chris
My neos need a repot desperately. Thank you so much for this video tutorial!
Glad the video helped!
you speak extremely well in your videos. very helpful. txs.
Thanks, I teach English in Japan and so I have to speak clearly for non-native speakers. Thanks for watching!
Very clear instructions. Great video. Thank you.
This was so interesting I've never seen one of these orchids repotted awesome thank you
👉👵👈
Thanks for watching Libby. This technique is the one mostly commonly used in Japan, so I thought I'd show how it is done.
와우! 풍란키우는 서양분을 뵈니 참 좋습니다. 그리고 공동심기의 방법도 모르는 분들에게 유용할것 같습니다.
번창하세요. Thank You!
Oh that was wonderful!!! 🤍💚
Excellent video!
That was a very nice demonstration.
What an excellent video. Thank you!
Thanks! I will be putting out more like this in the future.
Wow you are an artist!!
Hi! Thank you for these awesome videos and resources. Do you have any advice on where or how to find ceramic neofinetia pots in Japan? We travel to Tokyo occasionally, would love to find some handmade pots!
great technique & demo. thx for sharing @botanyboy1
Thank you, I have about, 9 different ones. I think one is dead. I was going to wait till spring to repot them. I have a Neo class on Saturday with Orchid Web. All my Neo’s come from them. I have for 6 months to a year.
Sorry for the late reply. They can be tricky to grow in sphagnum moss particularly if you are going them indoors, or any situation where humidity is low. I wish you the best of luck with your plants. Jason knows his stuff and certainly should be able to help!
This is awesome and I know it's not going to make much of a difference since you're just one person, but sphagnum is not sustainable and everything is destroyed getting it out of there. Coir/CHC works just as well or better. Neos and sedirea don't really need to be potted like this, though it does look nice. Alternatively you can thread foam peanuts together and then just wrap the outside with moss, ,but yeah, I'm sure you notice that the roots inside are all dead and the live ones are growing on the outside, so moss on the inside is kind of pointless.
It is a personal decision to use or not use a product. Certainly I do not endorse using sphagnum moss per se. The issue of sustainability is a pandora's box, though it seems that NZ is better in their harvesting than most North American sources.
NZ moss is high quality, resistant to rot, and if handled properly can last up to three years per potting. Yes, the number of roots that fully penetrate the moss tends to be less than the ones closer to the surface, but if a large enough air space is left at the core I don't tend to see rotten roots, just dead old roots.
Super video, excellent tutorial. I am receiving a bare-rooted Neofinitia Falcata "Shoujou" - previously potted in three inch pot of moss. I ordered a 2.75" pot like yours. Do you think this will suffice? I have the moss both regular and triple long strand.
Where do you get your pots from?
And most importantly what is your watering technique? I would really like your help, since this is my first experience with a Neo, and want to get it right. Thank-you!
Hi Marcella. Glad you liked the video.
Neofinitia pots are fairly standard size, so your pot should be fine. I actually live in Japan, so I source pots locally. Watering depends on the season and growing conditions. I grow outside year round where the humidity averages 60% or more most of the time. In winter when temperatures drop below 50 F, they are watered once a week at most. In summer daytime highs range from 90-96 F, so they are watered every morning. In general, when the plant is in growth, keep it continuously moist, but not wet. To see a complete article I wrote on this subject, check this out: botanyboy.org/how-to-grow-fukiran/
Superb primer on Neos. I live in Canada. My plants will have to stay indoors - winters are much too cold, but conversely in summer, we can have the same high temperatures are you experience in Japan, but not for prolonged periods. I DO appreciate your help!
Great tips...thnx for sharing...
Hello! I recently received my first Vanda falcata and I'm intrigued to have it potted in this way. I'm glad that I found this video which is thorough and easy to follow. I have a question regarding watering for this sort of planting. How do you water the plant with the moss ball? Do you spray the moss, or pour water on it, or probably other method? And how to know that it's enough water given to the plant? Thanks :)
I water directly onto the moss since I grow my plants outside. The problem is that once dry, sphagnum repels water so you have to water, wait a bit, and then water again. In summer plants are kept continuously moist, but in winter when temperatures average below 50 F I keep them just moist enough so that they don't dehydrate. You know you have watered enough when the moss is literally sodden. It drains quickly, so there is no worry they will stay too wet. When the plants are in spike it is best to try to keep water off the developing buds, and later on the flowers. Good air flow is also necessary.
@@botanyboy1 Thank you for your explanation! This has helped me to understand the requirements that it needs.
That was very informative! Thank you for sharing! Can you do a video about the different type of Neos? Or about the ones you have?
Greetings from Hungary!
BR,
Maria
Hi Maria! Did you see my video of a Neofinetia show? Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/Pi-W4oRyN5Q/w-d-xo.html I also have written several articles about them on my website at: botanyboy.org/category/neofinetia-falcata/
Excellent video, thank you! I just ordered my first Neofinetia and this will be very useful. It looks like you removed the old media when it was completely dry...is that right? I’m used to soaking my orchid roots and old media before repotting.
Thanks for watching! You can remove the media on the dry side or moist. If it is too dry however it won't come apart easily. If so, moisten it a bit.
Good morning, I like your technique and plan to put my starter Neofintetia in kokodama. It is May first and a few roots are starting. Can I repot now ?
exelent video. thank you.
My parents care for a lot of orchids and they use charcoal bricks as the growing medium. They thrive quite well but I prefer moss aesthetics, I may have to ask them to give up an orchid plant for me to try.
Growing them in moss is definitely the Japanese aesthetic for cultivating this species, but certainly not necessary. Actually, I think it is a high maintenance technique since repotting is needed every second or third year. Still, I encourage you trying one in moss!
just make sure you get good quality moss usually with longer strands. I find this way it packs lighter and does not compress, and it will not not create as much sediment that will break down faster and form sediment that will stick to the roots and break down quicker.
also you can mix with bark. this way you are less likely to suffocate the roots by packing the sphagnum moss too much, and it will not stay as moist for so long. However if its very hot and dry, moss is your friend! it all depends on how dry and hot your conditions are but more importantly how much you would be willing to give them attention. moss is great because you don't have to water so much, or just sprinkle near the base. its also good the smaller the orchid but with a large orchid it may stay too damp inside a large pot. just use what you know about your environment and your ability to tend to them :) if find moss is a good default because it doesn't hurt new root tips when repotting. and good for recovering orchids.
Also, why repot when roots are dormant in winter? Shouldn't you wait until new root activity just starts like with cattleyas and other sympodials, so the plant can re-establish quickly after the damage of repotting?
I like to repot just before nature root growth begins, ideally in mid-March, so they are still dormant. I would avoid fall or early winter repotting. That said, I've repotted them from time to time during their growth cycle as well without much trouble.
Would you add a little text bubble to the video explaining that? - That the plant is getting ready to start new roots soon? I think..well, before I knew..like with cattleyas, if you repot some of them before new root growth just starts, they won't grow anymore and slowly die. It would be very helpful if you explained that for new growers. When you said "late winter," I was thinking December/Feburay. I consider March to be technically spring, but it's still really winter here then. I just remember back when I was starting and I read "repot when dormant" and then it explained more, but I lost a few plants to repotting at the wrong time. My humidity is 25 percent, so root damage will really hurt a plant here. (Now I've got good humidity in my grow room, but I didn't back then.)
I hope I don't sound like a jerk. Not intended at all, ok? You're just one of the most knowledgeable orchid people on TH-cam and I think you may skip some details that seem obvious to you. I know I do sometimes when I start talking about orchids. Anyway, I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your channel and your sharing. Also, I wanted to ask if you've ever tried coir for neos? It's my favorite thing for phals and has been working great for the young sedirea I've had in it for two years. My other sedirea is in a plastic pot with mostly air space, a few styrofoam peanuts, and a tiny bit of moss. Been like that since 2008. The old roots never seem to die. It's an ugly potting job, but it seems to work well and I get 2-3 bloomings per year. Plant would do better if I potted it with more moisture retentive mix or watered it a bit more, but overall I love it because I don't have to use very much moss. I love the properties of sphagnum but I always feel guilty using it. Oh-I'm glad to learn that NZ is more responsible with their harvesting. Thank you. I read an article once that said that if you stood in a sphagnum bog knee deep, that your feet would be on the layer when Jesus lived. I tried growing some from dry better-grow brand in a ziplock once and the rate at which it grew made me believe what I'd read. In two years, it was as thick as about ten hair strands and 1/4 of an inch or less tall. That was years ago and I've got more light now, so that may have had something to do with it, but ive also got a bare root Cattleya I've had in the same pot since 2010 that has a bit of this growing as well. the patch is a whole half inch across after all these years. That was also from moss from the better-gro brand. I've heard the Sphagmoss brand is sterilized and won't grow from spores. Have you tried growing it that way?
Done! I've found that as long as I repot after the main cold period is over (late December thru early February), timing isn't that critical. I try to avoid repotting during their growth cycle, but in a pinch that can be done too.
Oh thank you so much. I grow under lights so I can repot any time plants are starting roots. I don't have the best humidity still, and only have a few catts that are super picky about repotting time, so it's still important for me to repot when new roots grow and it's important for a lot of windowsill growers etc. Thank you again.
Very nice! 👍😍💚🌸
Your video wonderful!
Very informative! Thank you - could I plant these directly into a small bonsai pot?
Yes, that is OK, but I recommend a tall pot that drains well. This species needs to have lots of air around the roots. If you use sphagnum then be sure to have a large hole at the center of the ball and mound the moss high. Otherwise you can plant it into any free draining orchid mix and it should do fine.
that was an excellent demonstration.
Would you pot a neostylis "blue bell" the same?
thanks
Yes, you certainly can. I've seen many orchids grown in this fashion - Phalaenopsis, Dendrobiums, and Cattleyas for example. Glad you liked the video.
I know this is the classic way of potting neos, but have you tried any others? Have you ever mounted them and if so, any luck?
I grow all my plants in sphagnum if they are in pots. Two trees in my garden also have plants in them (as seen at the beginning of the video), so those are mounted - starting with a small mound of sphagnum that eventually disappears through time. I put one plant on an inverted flower pot (again with a sphagnum base layer), and there also are a couple large ones mounted onto tree fern fiber. In my experience they seem to do equally well under all the above conditions. I know of people who grow them in a variety of substrates, including more common materials like bark, charcoal, perlite, etc. The main thing is the roots should go through moist/dry cycles regularly.
A silly question, I know, but Exactly how to you water the neofinitia. Soak in water or spray?
Thank-you and also on the Primer: How to grow fuukiran, the basics, which I have printed.
You can do either with no ill effect. When they are in bud it is best to keep water off the flower spikes since this can cause the buds to blast.
So you’re basically making a koketama!!!
Yup, but be sure to have the air space in the middle for this species. Less problems that way.
thank you for this video.this will help so many people.I have one neofi that all roots are gone only some in side of the plant.so I'm thinking to mount it instead.what is your advice.subscribe.
I would try putting your rootless plant into pure sphagnum and keep it evenly moist. If it dries out too much, especially if the humidity is low, it will have a hard time rooting. Mounting is indeed another good option. Again, I'd use a small clump of sphagnum to help it root. Good luck and thanks for watching!
thank you.
Can seem to find the pot you use. Where can I find them plz. Thanks.
You can get them in from OrchidWeb in the states. Search also online auctions in your area.
Nice plants. Take a look on my current video, please. I've improved my orchids place.
Wow the moss is so long over there?
That is extra long moss from New Zealand. Sometimes you see domestic moss in Japan that is about that long, but it is very expensive.
I'm live in pokhara , western part of Nepal. we have many kinds of orchid near jungle. I'm interested to make orchid garden . but we don't have any material like moss . could u please help me get it
Sorry, I can't send organic products out of country legally. There are many things you can grow orchids in however - tree bark and coconut husk (called coir) for instance. In your area you may just be able to tie them directly to trees. Sorry I couldn't help more.
Magnífico !🇧🇷👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🌳🌳🇧🇷
Should I try to grow an egret orchid from seed?
If you mean Habenaria radiata, I recommend buying bulbs. They quickly multiply if grown properly. From seed they will take a long time to grow and flower.
botanyboy1 Do you know a good supplier?
can this be done to phalanopsi orchids?
Sure. I've seen many different orchids potted this way - Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda and even Angraecum. The only drawback is they need to be repotted every 2-3 years since the sphagnum breaks down.
How about using an omoto pot? Would that work?
Sure, as long as it dries out well. Glazed or plastic types will dry slower, while unglazed clay ones will dry very fast. This species seems to like to go through wet/dry cycles between waterings. Some have said they even grow well in S/H watering, but if you let the roots stay soggy I'd be careful of rot setting in.
botanyboy1 so add a combination of orchid bark, crushed pumice/ hummus at the bottom then?
This species can be grown in a wide range of media as long as it is totally free draining. I'd skip the hummus though or anything else that breaks down too rapidly. Coconut coir, bark and sphagnum are all suitable, but care must be taken to monitor the the medium over time. Repotting every other year is a good idea to be on the safe side..
So all the roots that were covered with moos in the core of the plant rotted and died and the plant survived due to it’s air roots. Unfortunately you have taken aerial roots that are used to little amount of humidity from the air only and covered them with moos. They will rot too in no time. This is not the way to go.
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