Sorry this video was late guys time has been limited to edit with all the new installs and mods lately. Thanks so much for the support mopar fam you all rock🤙also this is the dial indicator tool I used not expensive and works great. www.harborfreight.com/Clamping-Dial-Indicator-63656.html
Drain plug is a nice feature. The early 9" Ford housings actually had drain plugs on the underside of the housing and a fill plug on the rear of the housings. Later models just had a fill plug located in the third member.
I left a comment awhile ago about the part no for the clutch rebuild kits and i asked my work for it again and mopar dropped support of it from when i did it and no longer stocks it. I did my rebuild a year and half ago
One trick ive seen done on installing the ring gear on the unit is to freeze the ring gear and heat the main unit and it will just seat perfectly over the lip. Great vid btw👍
So little information on these axles . I need to replace at minimum the dust shields and e brake shoes . Thanks for the detail on getting things apart . Please send a Taco . If differential needs a fix the local axle shop we will visit .
Thanks for the video. I like seeing what can be done with basically the tools I have in my garage. Shops around here want waaayyy too much cash to do what you did in a couple hours.
Thanks its definitely not that bad just need to pay attention and take your time🙏 that's the dial indicator I bought super cheap and works great. www.harborfreight.com/Clamping-Dial-Indicator-63656.html
FWIW: Use a 6 point (8mm) on the differential cross shaft pin. Don't take a chance rounding it with a 12 point. I don't know about Dodge, but GM is pretty notorious for this bolt being broken and having a thread or so remaining. I have actually been able to remove a few of the broken ones using a seal pick to turn the end of it (requires patience) or a magnet like the ones you sometimes find on the end of those small screw drivers. Turn gently if using a magnet. You may have to cut some of the screw driver back to expose enough of the magnet to get it to go in deep enough to stick to the broken bolt end.
I plan on doing stuff to a 3rd gen Dakota, I wanna keep my 4th gen 12 quad cab reliable as possible. But the dakota will be getting a hemi swap but I'm doing something different. It's going to be a 4x4 truck but lowered and will be swapping for awd because I like the drive ability of awd on dry pavement with the pedal smashed!
How are the 4.10s??? I have 3.21s with a 8 speed. I have an open diff looking to upgrade and get rid of the one wheel peel. I have full bolt on but that open diff is killing my time. I don't race. I daily drive and just have fun when no one is around at 4am on the way to work. 13.22 is the best I can get with all the wheel spin on the street.
I've been waiting for this ! My truck is a Silver 2012 reg cab Hemi Express that I bought new and I have kept it looking that way, just hit 88k miles. I have the Mopar cold air intake and Magnaflow muffler. We all know these trucks run strong stock but I am finally looking at upgrades and gears and a tune are first on the list, along with wheels and slight lowering. Thanks for the great videos, Frostbite is killer !!
Limited slip as an 2 wheel peel right. I just thought having spider gears ment open diff 1 wheel peel. Also on moes page the lsd shows spider gears. I want 2 wheel peel
@@FrostbiteRam yea me too. I'm going to build a trutrac conversation with a complete axle assembly on the side so if and when this breaks again ...I'll be ready
Great video bud !! Your right that doesn’t look near as hard as I thought it would be I can definitely do this myself I just need to read up on how to do backlash I know nothing about it . Also I’ll email you some pics of my rear end gears , I thought I had a limited slip in my 2012 crew cab ram but the dealership says I have an open diff with 3.55 gears , but it looks like a limited slip to me when I replaced the cover and changed the oil
By chance, did you use side that side bearing preload tool or just the hammer and punch? Just wondering how you got torque specs during the install. Great vids and truck btw!
Always wondered if you are a tech by trade or did you just grow up around it all? You seem to have a ton of tools and access. Thanks for this video and showing the work!
Would this also the same for a 2005 ram 1500 that has a 9.25 rear end I’ve done some read end stuff but never in a doge and that’s what I currentlydrive
HI, wanted to know what’s the break in procedure? And which oil did you use? If I use the red line 75w140 with lsd additive , would I need the additional friction modifier? Just a bit confused about the modifier
i'm wondering the same thing i just had my 2007 dodge ram 4x4 rear rebuilt i had a lot of bad bearings making a lot of noises we replaced all bearings and seals ring gear and the pinion gear they put 90 weight gear oil back into rear and now the shuttering has started on take off and sometimes when making a left turn my question is were they supposed to put the special additive for the shuttering and also there is a very high pitch sound coming from the rear at between 58 and 62 MPH any recommendation
Any way to over ride the computer on a 2017 ram? When I turn off the engine with it in neutral, it will auto shift to park thus locking the diff. I really don't want to drop the drive shaft if I do not have to.
@@FrostbiteRam: Just looked it up on TH-cam . Searched "keeping a 2017 ram 1500 in neutral with engine off". Check DoctorD907. Turns out it's quite simple if you know were to look and what to pull push and swing out. Thanks for the quick response.
Any particular reason for going with an OEM replacement vs. a Detroit truetrac or something without clutches? Also, how long did your original unit last? I’ve got a 2016 with about 40K miles and am wondering about life expectancy. It’s my daily driver with no mods and conservative driving behavior. Thanks for the video!
How long would a job like this take? Thinking about getting a posi track or limited slip to replace my conventional dif in my 16' ram 1500 express hemi. JW the hrs to see if the mechanic is close. Also...should I go from 3.21 axle ratio to 3.92 or what would you recommend? Just my daily driver but want it more fun. And when I get the positrack do I also need a kit for bearings and everything? Thanks!
@@FrostbiteRam I just found out that I would need to change my front axle ratio as well if I do the back...so i think I will keep them the stock 3.21 for now. The truck has tons of power already so I think I will be ok. Have a Pulsar system and a s&b air filter and she really moves decent! Going to be putting a outlaw? muffler on it too.
I thought LSD's had to have a S spring or some type of spring in between the spider gears to apply force to the clutches. The 9.25ZF unit doesn't look like it has anything in between the spider gears like a open diff, so how does pressure get applied to the clutches? The 9.25ZF unit must use pressure rings instead of a preload spring or S spring, right?
So your video about the rear diff got me motivated to tare my diff apart today. I had bad axles seals, the old girl started to leave her mark. Not rubber on the road, oil instead. I found somthing interesting, I always thought my truck had 3.55 gears. I took the cover off and to my surprise stamped on the ring gear is 3.92. So I assume that means she's got 3.92 gears?
Hi, i have 2013 ram 1500 planning to change rear gear diff with 3.92 ratio, is the ring and pinion gear 3.92 only? Is the sleeve need to change too? Im pulling an RV, thanks
Does this year rear not use the long tool that reaches down the axle tube to loosen and tight the bearing cap retainers? Im working on a 2000 ram 1500 with a 9.25 rear and used the tool (cheap on from Amazon). Worked great. Never tried the hammer and punch method
@@FrostbiteRam any chance you know where I can find an exploded view of the order the clutches go in? I got a new set of clutches but the old ones were already removed and I cant find any info on the installation of the new clutches
Does this mopar lsd use a clutch patch or is like the eaton trutrac? Is there a break in period. I've tried to find information on this lsd but info on it is very sparse.
This vid was awesome 😂🤣 I like your torque specs....did u grease the inner and outer bearings? When I did my outter wheel bearings I didn't notice the groove and got a small socket wrench stuck in-between the housing and and pin was emberssing even with no 1 there 😅 and great job gettin those axel shafts in by yourself bro It took me forever to get those things lined up!! Frostbite gonna b carving pavement in no time flat!!
@@FrostbiteRam yeah but seems like we are in the same boat we want it done we do it! And yeah when u set those thangs in place having to wiggle up n down as u slide forward u almost have to hold your mouth rite 😋
Very informative video .. great job on that !! An of the few mopar channels I watch yours is by far my favourite !! Like how you are jus you being down to earth good guy .. you come across as genuinely wanting to be helpful in any way you can An that will get you places!! I was thinking about taking out my 392 limited slip An swapping for the 410s .. jus for little more quicker off the line .. so you think I will notice much of a difference to be worth changing out or no ?? Appreciate your feedback an advise bro .. thanks an 10 outa 10 on this great vid !!👍👍🇨🇦
Frostbite Ram ya that’s what I was kinda thinking too .. not a lot of diffence between the 392 An 419 for the work .. I like the sounds of swapping to the 456 gear big time .. but am a bit worried as for it being my daily driver how much it would rev rpm wise on highway travelling .. my truck has the 5.9 360 mag motor with the automatic overdrive An lockup .. any thoughts on it maybe being too much gear change for me ? I don’t do a lot of highway miles more jus from a to b driving an some quarter mile fun at track an on street !! This spring I am doing cam an intake an headers an eventually heads too jus can’t put all the $ out at once for them an jus about to order my programmer too .. appreciate ya letting me what ya think .. maybe try motor add Ons an see what that does befor doing a rear gear change ??
@@DarrensTruckzs if your running oversized tires than it would be perfect Not so much for regular size tires as I believe you have a 4speed transmission?
@@DarrensTruckzs you probably good with the 392s I had that transmission in a Dakota R/T 456s would be great for racing but not so much for daily driver
@@FrostbiteRam yea that is true you didnt yea because right now i am changing from 3.55 to 4.10 and everything is going good besides the wear pattern i need to get it closer looks like and i added 2 shims already and needs closer .
I have a ram rcsb, and I'm copying your truck 💯 haha, beautiful sir. My 2016 I believe already has limited slip...am i wrong? Or are you doing a repair?
This is not the correct advice, and it wouldn't be a surprise if you do not have success just throwing it together like this video suggests. Do not listen to this, you will be paying someone who has the know how to redo it correctly. 1. Case spread MUST be measured and within specs after setting backlash, welcome to the world of threaded adjusters. 2. As the differential spins, the crush sleeve inherently continues to crush over time/mileage resulting in incorrect bearing preload, because of this, pinion depth and pinion bearing preload should ALWAYS be checked regardless of what your opinion of the old contact pattern is. 3. Your oil is filthy? Hmmm... That means your bearing races could have minor pitting that will only get worse with time. Check your bearing races carefully while you have it apart, how many times are you planning on tearing your diff apart in the future because of your laziness? Like a cancer cell, your bearings/races start with one bad spot (pit) that spreads until it's all over and it's life ends. 3. A diff cover gasket (felpro #55073) costs less than a tube of rtv, and it's the correct way to go. 4. To properly measure backlash, you are to measure in 4 spots 90 degrees apart, then use the lowest reading. Again, if you're trying to assemble your diff yourself and you feel capable do the BARE MINIMUM and get a Factory service manual before you dive into it.
You got lucky. Don't waste your money on any lottery tickets, you used your good luck on this project only doing what you felt necessary rather than following proper procedure.
@CJ Hosey dude I didn't replace gears or Pinon or bearings I just replaced the factory worn out lsd unit with another factory lsd unit. If the ring gear or Pinon was replaced I would agree with you.
New or old parts, it's imperative it's setup to spec using only approved procedures, whether or not the ring gear was new or used... 1. Runout should have been measured with the ring gear on the new carrier, manufacturer imperfections (especially Chrysler) are not uncommon, and neither are seating imperfections from a piece of dirt or something falling between ring gear and carrier causing excessive runout. You may feel impenetrable and confident that it didn't or couldn't happen to you, but from a stand point of expecting your viewers to have exactly the same outcome as you luckily found yourself to have it doesn't make sense not to make the necessary checks. It doesn't seem like you grasp that you made a how to video for others to follow, and defending your work by saying you raced it for 3 yrs now only instills false confidence into your viewers who have commented saying how easy you made things look. 2. Regardless of new or old ring gear, backlash is to be measured at 4 points with a helper holding the pinion stationary as rotational pressure is applied to the ring gear, you just taught how many people how to do it incorrectly and to expect everyone to have the same outcome as you after skipping steps and then cited how super simple it is. 3. Pinion bearing preload is critical, new bearings have a spec and there's also a spec for used bearings. 4. Case spread is also critical. No matter how perfect your backlash is set, the case can be spread apart too much or too little. 5. Again, your oil was filthy and was contaminated, spin those inferior OEM Korean made bearings and fill them with dirt, debris, clutch material, etc... and the quality (or lack thereof) of the most cost effective bearings from a subpar manufacturing company that Chrysler decided to utilize (iljin) often becomes a failure point. 6. The proper torque spec for the 8mm lock pin is 19ft lbs, with red loctite as the factory uses. Not 2 mfers. I feel bad for anyone who has had failures and thought they had this after watching how to do it halfway.
Sorry this video was late guys time has been limited to edit with all the new installs and mods lately. Thanks so much for the support mopar fam you all rock🤙also this is the dial indicator tool I used not expensive and works great. www.harborfreight.com/Clamping-Dial-Indicator-63656.html
I use a strong punch in the ring gear bolt holes. Using a chisel between the ring gear and differential runs the possibilty of marking the carrier.
Drain plug is a nice feature. The early 9" Ford housings actually had drain plugs on the underside of the housing and a fill plug on the rear of the housings. Later models just had a fill plug located in the third member.
I left a comment awhile ago about the part no for the clutch rebuild kits and i asked my work for it again and mopar dropped support of it from when i did it and no longer stocks it. I did my rebuild a year and half ago
www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-p4529484?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAjrXxBRAPEiwAiM3DQl2X0B_a4p88Gh3I1Qn6pM8viNY3UxZ3d0ZFFg5ExJypcnhbd5WfYBoCeeoQAvD_BwE
Yea that's what I keep seeing mopar only offers the assembly now😔
@@Bustopable unfortunately I seen those but they are different for older axles.
One trick ive seen done on installing the ring gear on the unit is to freeze the ring gear and heat the main unit and it will just seat perfectly over the lip. Great vid btw👍
Thanks and yes that works great also👍
So little information on these axles . I need to replace at minimum the dust shields and e brake shoes . Thanks for the detail on getting things apart . Please send a Taco . If differential needs a fix the local axle shop we will visit .
I wasted 37 minutes of my life just to get the the part I really needed that is skipped over...thanks...
What part was that? And how did you end up doing it?
Thanks for the heads up
Thanks for the video. I like seeing what can be done with basically the tools I have in my garage. Shops around here want waaayyy too much cash to do what you did in a couple hours.
Thanks its definitely not that bad just need to pay attention and take your time🙏 that's the dial indicator I bought super cheap and works great.
www.harborfreight.com/Clamping-Dial-Indicator-63656.html
FWIW: Use a 6 point (8mm) on the differential cross shaft pin. Don't take a chance rounding it with a 12 point. I don't know about Dodge, but GM is pretty notorious for this bolt being broken and having a thread or so remaining. I have actually been able to remove a few of the broken ones using a seal pick to turn the end of it (requires patience) or a magnet like the ones you sometimes find on the end of those small screw drivers. Turn gently if using a magnet. You may have to cut some of the screw driver back to expose enough of the magnet to get it to go in deep enough to stick to the broken bolt end.
I actually got one out with a stick and crazy glue in an old 8.25 dodge.
Skipped one of the most important part. how to set the backlash again 🥺
Can you please explain how to set the backlash?
Thanks for this video! I have a TrueTrac on order and this will solve my traction problem. Open diffs suck! Especially in a tuned, bolt-on truck.
That's for sure💪
Did you do a video on how to rebuild and reassembly?
I plan on doing stuff to a 3rd gen Dakota, I wanna keep my 4th gen 12 quad cab reliable as possible. But the dakota will be getting a hemi swap but I'm doing something different. It's going to be a 4x4 truck but lowered and will be swapping for awd because I like the drive ability of awd on dry pavement with the pedal smashed!
That would be awesome man I had a Dakota R/T years ago loved it.
How are the 4.10s??? I have 3.21s with a 8 speed. I have an open diff looking to upgrade and get rid of the one wheel peel. I have full bolt on but that open diff is killing my time. I don't race. I daily drive and just have fun when no one is around at 4am on the way to work. 13.22 is the best I can get with all the wheel spin on the street.
I love my 4.10s but my truck is not a 8speed so they may be a bit much for your 8speed
I've been waiting for this !
My truck is a Silver 2012 reg cab Hemi Express that I bought new and I have kept it looking that way, just hit 88k miles. I have the Mopar cold air intake and Magnaflow muffler. We all know these trucks run strong stock but I am finally looking at upgrades and gears and a tune are first on the list, along with wheels and slight lowering.
Thanks for the great videos, Frostbite is killer !!
🙏thanks brother these trucks are definitely fun to mod and drive.
That 9.25 is a very strong differential!
Definitely
Great video man! slow and steady is the name of the game when doing diffs
What size are the gear ring bolts. 7/16x18
Im confused, the new one is a 2 wheel peel but it has spider gears like the stock 1 wheel peel.
The stock rt has a mopar lsd from the factory
Limited slip as an 2 wheel peel right. I just thought having spider gears ment open diff 1 wheel peel. Also on moes page the lsd shows spider gears. I want 2 wheel peel
You can get new clutches for it from orielys auto parts
And ebay now
how did u get those adjusters back in there?
THANK YOU for posting this! Question: I have a 2018 4x4 3.21, i just bought 4.11 gears, will this LSD work with that setup? Thanks!
It should
Did you find clutches to rebuild the old unit?
I'd like to see that video
Ebay
Rear end fluid has a HORRIBLE smell still a stint of it in my truck n it never even spilled in inside
You got that right straight nasty 🤣
@@FrostbiteRam yeah it's terrible and I had to smell m deal with like 4 times with 2 broken rears lol
@@IncredibleHemi1111 I know bro I really hope you have a good season with no rear problems 🤞💪
@@FrostbiteRam yea me too. I'm going to build a trutrac conversation with a complete axle assembly on the side so if and when this breaks again ...I'll be ready
@@IncredibleHemi1111 hell yea💪🤘
Great video bud !!
Your right that doesn’t look near as hard as I thought it would be I can definitely do this myself I just need to read up on how to do backlash I know nothing about it .
Also I’ll email you some pics of my rear end gears , I thought I had a limited slip in my 2012 crew cab ram but the dealership says I have an open diff with 3.55 gears , but it looks like a limited slip to me when I replaced the cover and changed the oil
Thanks man yes just watch some vids in backlash setup its easy.
By chance, did you use side that side bearing preload tool or just the hammer and punch? Just wondering how you got torque specs during the install. Great vids and truck btw!
Good ol hammer and punch lol
One thing I had to learn the hard way. Always torque ring gear bolts. Always use new bolts. And use thread lock. Don't ask me how I know XD
Always wondered if you are a tech by trade or did you just grow up around it all? You seem to have a ton of tools and access. Thanks for this video and showing the work!
Thanks I'm actually a small engine tech by trade since I was about 18.
Would this also the same for a 2005 ram 1500 that has a 9.25 rear end I’ve done some read end stuff but never in a doge and that’s what I currentlydrive
Pretty much same process and rear.
Frostbite Ram okay thank you
HI, wanted to know what’s the break in procedure? And which oil did you use? If I use the red line 75w140 with lsd additive , would I need the additional friction modifier? Just a bit confused about the modifier
i'm wondering the same thing i just had my 2007 dodge ram 4x4 rear rebuilt i had a lot of bad bearings making a lot of noises we replaced all bearings and seals ring gear and the pinion gear they put 90 weight gear oil back into rear and now the shuttering has started on take off and sometimes when making a left turn my question is were they supposed to put the special additive for the shuttering and also there is a very high pitch sound coming from the rear at between 58 and 62 MPH any recommendation
Any way to over ride the computer on a 2017 ram? When I turn off the engine with it in neutral, it will auto shift to park thus locking the diff. I really don't want to drop the drive shaft if I do not have to.
Not sure on that one perhaps custom tuning but I haven't heard of that one.
@@FrostbiteRam: Just looked it up on TH-cam . Searched "keeping a 2017 ram 1500 in neutral with engine off". Check DoctorD907. Turns out it's quite simple if you know were to look and what to pull push and swing out.
Thanks for the quick response.
To go this far in depth into a video only to totally cut the installation part, makes me wonder if you set the backlash yourself.
guess we may never know 🤷♂️😎 Sorry battery's die my man.
Any particular reason for going with an OEM replacement vs. a Detroit truetrac or something without clutches? Also, how long did your original unit last? I’ve got a 2016 with about 40K miles and am wondering about life expectancy. It’s my daily driver with no mods and conservative driving behavior.
Thanks for the video!
My truck had over 130k on it when it went out. Had no effect on drivability just wouldn't do a good burnout.
How long would a job like this take? Thinking about getting a posi track or limited slip to replace my conventional dif in my 16' ram 1500 express hemi. JW the hrs to see if the mechanic is close. Also...should I go from 3.21 axle ratio to 3.92 or what would you recommend? Just my daily driver but want it more fun. And when I get the positrack do I also need a kit for bearings and everything? Thanks!
About a days work and 392 or 410s would be perfect
@@FrostbiteRam I just found out that I would need to change my front axle ratio as well if I do the back...so i think I will keep them the stock 3.21 for now. The truck has tons of power already so I think I will be ok. Have a Pulsar system and a s&b air filter and she really moves decent! Going to be putting a outlaw? muffler on it too.
I thought LSD's had to have a S spring or some type of spring in between the spider gears to apply force to the clutches. The 9.25ZF unit doesn't look like it has anything in between the spider gears like a open diff, so how does pressure get applied to the clutches? The 9.25ZF unit must use pressure rings instead of a preload spring or S spring, right?
How does positrak work on a dodge 🤔 nobody knows it just does 🤣🤣
@@FrostbiteRam lol as long as it works, that's all that matters! 🤘😎
@@deviantarsenal oh yeah 🤘
@@FrostbiteRam lifes like a garden, dig it
@@Brandenlytle1 keep on keepin on🤘
Can you swap 3.92 to 3.09 on a 2015 ram RT
So your video about the rear diff got me motivated to tare my diff apart today. I had bad axles seals, the old girl started to leave her mark. Not rubber on the road, oil instead. I found somthing interesting, I always thought my truck had 3.55 gears. I took the cover off and to my surprise stamped on the ring gear is 3.92. So I assume that means she's got 3.92 gears?
That's awesome I'm glad my video got you in the garage 🔧🍻
@@FrostbiteRam not too much to do other than sharpen my mechanical skill in this whole social distancing. Who knows what could be next?
@@billknight5578that's for sure👍
Haha love the Joey taco plug 19:19 😂
Hotdamn 🔥🌮
Hi, i have 2013 ram 1500 planning to change rear gear diff with 3.92 ratio, is the ring and pinion gear 3.92 only? Is the sleeve need to change too? Im pulling an RV, thanks
You need a master installation kit along with your choice of gear ratio
Thanks man for the reply, can you send me a link where to buy, im from canada
@@sandersalazar9114 contact gauge performance or moes
@frostbite ram i watch your video thats why im looking how to change it my self, maybe u can answer my question
@@sandersalazar9114 if pulling alot 410s would probably be better. That's what my truck has and I love them.
Does this year rear not use the long tool that reaches down the axle tube to loosen and tight the bearing cap retainers? Im working on a 2000 ram 1500 with a 9.25 rear and used the tool (cheap on from Amazon). Worked great. Never tried the hammer and punch method
I'm sure there is a tool that one may work. Most just use hammer and punch tho.
@@FrostbiteRam any chance you know where I can find an exploded view of the order the clutches go in? I got a new set of clutches but the old ones were already removed and I cant find any info on the installation of the new clutches
Or even a video showing them installed?
@@Tactical_Arborist_1776 not really man seems to be the mopar parts break down sucks pretty bad.
Check out "Patriot Diesel" He shows the clutch order around 3.25
I love your scientific torque specs 😂
🤣🤘
So just stock from the factory they come with a limited slip?
Depends on model but the rt has the posi mopar lsd.
Does this mopar lsd use a clutch patch or is like the eaton trutrac? Is there a break in period. I've tried to find information on this lsd but info on it is very sparse.
It a clutch pack designe. All lsd units except the truetrac uses clutch packs.
Thanks for the quick reply
Hows the new limited slip holding?
Good so far
Awesome video bro!! Thanks for doing this for us this is great !! Quick question could you use Lock tight on the bolts or not a
Necessity
Thanks bro Yes you can lock tight them
Are the 2011 rear differentials the same as my 2017?
Yes
What order did you put that clutch pack in
I replaced the entire unit
It says 2011 and up. My 2009 is the same model and your telling me it won't fit??
It fits all zf rear ends so if you have a zf unit then it will work.
Im guessing ZF doesn't come on a stock 5speed onle equipped on 8speed's? Im asking because im getting ready to buy one.
What is a ZF Unit??
I need a control unit to get this limited slip?
It fits bro!
I just went ahead and got radials for traction
This vid was awesome 😂🤣 I like your torque specs....did u grease the inner and outer bearings? When I did my outter wheel bearings I didn't notice the groove and got a small socket wrench stuck in-between the housing and and pin was emberssing even with no 1 there 😅 and great job gettin those axel shafts in by yourself bro It took me forever to get those things lined up!! Frostbite gonna b carving pavement in no time flat!!
Thanks man its definitely easier with some help for sure those axles suck getting back in sometimes.
@@FrostbiteRam yeah but seems like we are in the same boat we want it done we do it! And yeah when u set those thangs in place having to wiggle up n down as u slide forward u almost have to hold your mouth rite 😋
@@bmanclassics4350 definitely need your mouth at the proper angle if the dangle 🤣
@@FrostbiteRam smh 😂🤣
Very informative video .. great job on that !! An of the few mopar channels I watch yours is by far my favourite !! Like how you are jus you being down to earth good guy .. you come across as genuinely wanting to be helpful in any way you can An that will get you places!! I was thinking about taking out my 392 limited slip An swapping for the 410s .. jus for little more quicker off the line .. so you think I will notice much of a difference to be worth changing out or no ?? Appreciate your feedback an advise bro .. thanks an 10 outa 10 on this great vid !!👍👍🇨🇦
Thanks for the support 🙏 honestly I wouldn't do it its alot of work and money for very little difference. But 456s would definitely be a difference
Frostbite Ram ya that’s what I was kinda thinking too .. not a lot of diffence between the 392 An 419 for the work .. I like the sounds of swapping to the 456 gear big time .. but am a bit worried as for it being my daily driver how much it would rev rpm wise on highway travelling .. my truck has the 5.9 360 mag motor with the automatic overdrive An lockup .. any thoughts on it maybe being too much gear change for me ? I don’t do a lot of highway miles more jus from a to b driving an some quarter mile fun at track an on street !! This spring I am doing cam an intake an headers an eventually heads too jus can’t put all the $ out at once for them an jus about to order my programmer too .. appreciate ya letting me what ya think .. maybe try motor add Ons an see what that does befor doing a rear gear change ??
@@DarrensTruckzs if your running oversized tires than it would be perfect Not so much for regular size tires as I believe you have a 4speed transmission?
Frostbite Ram yes that’s right 4 speed trans with 295 45 20 s for tires
@@DarrensTruckzs you probably good with the 392s I had that transmission in a Dakota R/T 456s would be great for racing but not so much for daily driver
Does this modification fit a 2014 Dodge Ram 1500 3.2 axle ?
open diff
Yes fits all zf rear ram trucks
no need to change anything in the front diff , i have four-wheel drive 3.20 ?
@@waleed101m if you stay with your factory gears no need to change anything
What rotors/pads do you use? Great Video btw.
Thanks they were the power stop kit from Amazon
Frostbite Ram Thanks! I got the power stop kit Z26 the other day. So yeah, feeling pretty confident about that decision now.
What’s the conversion of a MF to ft. lbs.?
🤣🤣
Hey brother did your pinon have any shims on it??
I'm sure but I didn't remove mine. I only removed the limited slip unit I kept my factory gears.
@@FrostbiteRam yea that is true you didnt yea because right now i am changing from 3.55 to 4.10 and everything is going good besides the wear pattern i need to get it closer looks like and i added 2 shims already and needs closer .
Great video bro. great job
Thanks man
Great video 👍🏼
Thanks🤙
1st! Now we got that out the way let's see this install 😅
If your not first your last "Ricky Bobby "🤣
I have a ram rcsb, and I'm copying your truck 💯 haha, beautiful sir. My 2016 I believe already has limited slip...am i wrong? Or are you doing a repair?
I was replacing mine I finally wore the clutch packs out but gears was fine.
@@FrostbiteRam awesome man. Keep the vids flowing...love it!!
@@FrostbiteRam hey bro, just ordered my 2/4 kit.
How much did you have cut off your springs? Love your ride height!
Love the info... bro... dying to see the next time your on the track.... Frost Bite is Bsd Ass bro..... wait until The Black Ram is done... 👍😁👍
Thanks man I'm definitely ready lots of work to go.
Thank u
🍻👍
Skiped the best part smh
“One shaft c’mon!” Lol
🤣yea c'mon
haha...thats how I always torque my stuff
🤣the only way💪👍
he left out the hardest part...lol
You know someone with try it and kill themselves when the rear diff locks up on them at highway speeds...
What was the hardest part?
This is not the correct advice, and it wouldn't be a surprise if you do not have success just throwing it together like this video suggests. Do not listen to this, you will be paying someone who has the know how to redo it correctly.
1. Case spread MUST be measured and within specs after setting backlash, welcome to the world of threaded adjusters.
2. As the differential spins, the crush sleeve inherently continues to crush over time/mileage resulting in incorrect bearing preload, because of this, pinion depth and pinion bearing preload should ALWAYS be checked regardless of what your opinion of the old contact pattern is.
3. Your oil is filthy? Hmmm... That means your bearing races could have minor pitting that will only get worse with time. Check your bearing races carefully while you have it apart, how many times are you planning on tearing your diff apart in the future because of your laziness? Like a cancer cell, your bearings/races start with one bad spot (pit) that spreads until it's all over and it's life ends.
3. A diff cover gasket (felpro #55073) costs less than a tube of rtv, and it's the correct way to go.
4. To properly measure backlash, you are to measure in 4 spots 90 degrees apart, then use the lowest reading.
Again, if you're trying to assemble your diff yourself and you feel capable do the BARE MINIMUM and get a Factory service manual before you dive into it.
Been racing it 3years now lol😎
You got lucky. Don't waste your money on any lottery tickets, you used your good luck on this project only doing what you felt necessary rather than following proper procedure.
@CJ Hosey dude I didn't replace gears or Pinon or bearings I just replaced the factory worn out lsd unit with another factory lsd unit. If the ring gear or Pinon was replaced I would agree with you.
New or old parts, it's imperative it's setup to spec using only approved procedures, whether or not the ring gear was new or used...
1. Runout should have been measured with the ring gear on the new carrier, manufacturer imperfections (especially Chrysler) are not uncommon, and neither are seating imperfections from a piece of dirt or something falling between ring gear and carrier causing excessive runout. You may feel impenetrable and confident that it didn't or couldn't happen to you, but from a stand point of expecting your viewers to have exactly the same outcome as you luckily found yourself to have it doesn't make sense not to make the necessary checks. It doesn't seem like you grasp that you made a how to video for others to follow, and defending your work by saying you raced it for 3 yrs now only instills false confidence into your viewers who have commented saying how easy you made things look.
2. Regardless of new or old ring gear, backlash is to be measured at 4 points with a helper holding the pinion stationary as rotational pressure is applied to the ring gear, you just taught how many people how to do it incorrectly and to expect everyone to have the same outcome as you after skipping steps and then cited how super simple it is.
3. Pinion bearing preload is critical, new bearings have a spec and there's also a spec for used bearings.
4. Case spread is also critical. No matter how perfect your backlash is set, the case can be spread apart too much or too little.
5. Again, your oil was filthy and was contaminated, spin those inferior OEM Korean made bearings and fill them with dirt, debris, clutch material, etc... and the quality (or lack thereof) of the most cost effective bearings from a subpar manufacturing company that Chrysler decided to utilize (iljin) often becomes a failure point.
6. The proper torque spec for the 8mm lock pin is 19ft lbs, with red loctite as the factory uses. Not 2 mfers.
I feel bad for anyone who has had failures and thought they had this after watching how to do it halfway.
@@cjhosey3438 🫡👍