Well, I’m in peak physical condition and I’m not even in shape.. think about it. Tip #3 seat time is kinda the expensive one no? Fuel, track, maintenance.
hehe... we had decalworks custom design flame graphics for all our bikes. they were featured on their main website for a while. i think you can still buy a old version of the design for neck braces.
Cable lubrication. Great tips regarding chassis getting bound up and throttle tube but making sure the cables are l lined is critical. Clean pivot points, sliding and rotating components is critical to prevent that “my bikes lost that loving feelin’” after 50-100 hours that so many guys complain about but don’t maintain these systems/components. You go through and clean the bike up, do the maintenance and voila h feels all freshened up!
Hey man, the Coors Classic on the wall is awesome! I'm comin to moto from a long MTB life and I appreciate the straightforward talk and practical advice. I've done lots on the bike, and the best advice I can give is pump up your tires and lube your chain. Kind of universal in its simplicity and this vid followed that theme. Thanks again.
This was awesome guys. If you're going to do anything well, you have to first educate yourself. The correlation to HP was great and very helpful. Great to see your knowledge come through, thanks Scott.
True story... i bought a dirtbike from a guy REAL CHEAP because he said its not running right. I got home 1st thing i looked at was the air filter. It had honestly about a 1/4 inch of dust on it... i cleaned it and she has been running like a champ every since
Here are some torque wrench tips: 1 - never break torque with a torque wrench, only use it to apply torque 2 - don't use it to run fasteners down, use a ratchet, t-handle, or speed handle 3 - only use the ratchet head for repositioning the wrench if you don't hit your setting on the first swing 4 - set it to its lowest value when done, never set it below its range or leave it at the setting you applied 5 - always store it in its case or a shadowed drawer to keep it from getting bounced around
thanks for posting. Didn't know about lubing the fork seal with a feeler gauge . My friends don't believe me about a clean lubed chain. Oh and the hp gain from non-o ring chain, nice. Don't like o ring chains, now I have a justification for not using them. A chain lube tip: run Bel Ray gear saver in your crank. Save it when you change oil and soak your chain in it until you ride next. Better than any spray lube. *** Found that Honda Pro is best spray lube but haven't tried Motorex.
Are you guys kidding? I didn't know Martha Stewart was related to James Stewart! And you hired her for this video! Somebody is bucking for a raise. Never spend money on levers after Memorial Day!
@@DStabs720 Eh I get what you're saying, but I'm still 40 hours past that and its running great. I could probably check the gap soon or something or just the overall condition, but performance wise there is no problem.
That rear sprocket tip is just great! I have a 250 YZ and it can feel a bit too snappy for me and the front end some times feel a bit too light or twitchy. Maybe it'll help taming the bike a bit while bringing a little more stability to the front end.
Pretty sure you cut the lengthening the wheel base backwards the longer wheelbase provides more stability the shorter wheelbase makes it turn quicker but can cause head shake issues but I haven’t had an issue with this yet in 15yrs or so which could mean it’s no longer an issue on modern bikes but it m not sure to be honest.
Instead of giving 1/8” that can cause throttle tube to break on a fall push throttle tube in till it touches lightly then push housing out to tube and tighten there. There is probably 1/16” play in housing to tube and now it doesn’t bind and on a fall it will contract bar and not crack. Also your right arm isn’t 1/8”+ off center compared to your left now. 👍🏻
Replace brake fluid after every race? What's the justification? Do you think that the heat from a single race has caused a breakdown of the fluid? This isn't oil hydrocarbon chains we're talking about. Brake Fluid stops working well when it absorbs moisture, primarily. If it's sealed, it should be ok, but I'd like to know if there's a physics reason it breaks down sooner.
I wash my bike by hand use only car wash and cold water then I sham it dry then blow dry it to get all the water I can’t reach them I lube my chain, all pivot points, cables on both ends I use the little straw to shoot oil up into both sides of clutch and I live my breaks at the pivot point then I use Greot’s garage best of show wax and wax all the metal and I use some detail spray to get to any parts I can’t reach with my hand makes the whole thing look brand new! Then I check, oil, air pressures, air filter, etc! But mine is a street bike 2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000L6 she’s a beast!
One thing no one has ever talked about or done and I now do it with my bikes and the feel of the bike is incredible. The left side of the bike is heavier due to chain, sprockets, chain guards, clutch bleeder line, front brakes assembly. To properly balance your bike you figure closely what each of these weight and it won’t be much and you add wheel weights to the opposite side of the frame or close to the same wires where the parts are located for example the front brake caliper is on the left side so add weight to the same spot on the right side. It will do so much more for a bike than anything I’ve ever tried in my 35 years of riding
What tool do I need to change my stator cover on a 250 sxf 2012 ktm? Not the stator itself just the cover? Guy I bought it from used JB weld and it's leaking oil out of the cracks
Nice tips! My brake fluid is relatively new but still got darkish in the rear master cylinder, while front does look much cleaner. Might it be because of the high temperature zone where back cylinder is located (right behind the engine)? Should I change the fluid in that case?
I think if you’re going to loosen and retorque the engine mounts and swingarm pivot, you should lower the bike and let it’s weight rest in the wheels first.
Premix Utah the seals he’s lubricating is not the seal for the air. Also opening that seal does not hurt the forks, helps flush dirt out of the oil seal.
As many Chinese anodized parts as you can buy! Most are cheaper than muffler packing! You don’t need muffler packing anyway, bike sounds better without it. If it’s louder, it’s probably faster. Race cars run open pipes. Mufflers are a conspiracy. Loud pipes save lives! Chinese anodized parts are scientifically proven to have lower drag when going fast. That’s why they ship so fast! The bigger and more over-engineered Chinese folding brake lever you can put on your bike, the better! You’ll be able to hold the gas on longer coming into the corners. The small stock lever is no strong CNC super best, that’s for sure. OEM parts suck. You shouldn’t even waste your time cleaning them or even your bike when you have AliExpress or the Tusk accessories pages bookmarked. Chinese air filters flow more air. Minimal foam, minimal drag. It’s not rocket surgery. Gluing seems only hinders flow further. Always invest in good set of ultra shiny designer Chinese brake and clutch levers. Not only do they look super champion #1 best speed, their universal fit will be a guaranteed a winner when your buddy crashes and brakes a lever and it works as a non-working but fashionable lever to get you home. He be like Flavor Flav of the trail. Last but far from least... your bike will bling so hard that your competition may be blinded or at least intimidated by the look of your bike before the race even starts!
Im happy with my modification duck bike be a Enduro bike, engine 120cc 2 stroke, already 2 years no Enduro since broke engine, hofe someday cant buy new engine, GBU sir shaloom from west Borneo Indonesia
@@Relinquish8t if i had the money i would buy a smart carb and be done with it. if your gonna spend that much money on a carb might as well skip the lectron and go all out. otherwise the stic is awesome and works magic!
A little, yes. Raising clamps/lowering forks will slow steering and floppy at slow speed, but increase stability at speed and better cornering. Slow tech usually want lower front and quicker steering, faster high speed and desert you want stability! Front higher ads a bit of weight to the back and can change sag a tad and change damping a tad. Old suspension tuner once had me raise the front instead of softening the rear suspension and stiffening the front and it worked because it transferred the weight and the bike handled better because of it.
just because something is called "brake cleaner" doesn't mean use it to clean your brake rotors. INCORRECT SIR! use soap and water. Brake cleaner will cause squeaks.
KTM Factory Mattighofen Austria!500€ Don t know If they are Sold Out yet???Because of Corona Lockdown...try IT...or choose THe New X Trig Triple Clamps have a even better forkcalmp Design...
under heavy traction wich only occurs on well prepared motocross tracks if you are on a lower rpm range yo can feel the difference in acceleration even on a 250F
It's changing the wheel base. Longer wheel base is more stable at high speed but you lose cornering feel. Shorter wheel base the bike will turn easier but can feel Shakey at speed
Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol based and interchangeable. Difference is Dot 3 has lowest boiling point, Dot 5.1 is highest boiling point. Dot 5 is silicone based and does not absorb water. Color is usually purple. If you use Dot 5 in a glycol based system, the brake system's fluid may congeal and the seals may be damaged.
It's mind-boggling how much maintenance would be required to do everything by the book, plus all the other suggestions like these... The manual's checklist for every 10 hours is dozens of items. And don't forget to have your shock rebuilt every 40 hours and rebuild the entire bottom end and transmission every 100 hours.
The guy isn’t crazy. This stuff is for pro factory riders with pro factory mechanic’s trying to get every possible hp. Out of there bike. Don’t forget to wax your helmet too , possibly 1/2 a hp. Lol.
Free tip #1: fitness. Free tip #2: static balance practice. Almost free tip #3: seat time with a specific goal in mind.
Finally some legit advice.
He said to improve bike performance not rider performance
Well, I’m in peak physical condition and I’m not even in shape.. think about it.
Tip #3 seat time is kinda the expensive one no? Fuel, track, maintenance.
Best tip for these “cheap” commentators. Just ride&play motocross/supercross on your ps4 online! Lol 😂
@@eastonw9776 Guessing he assumes you have a low BMI (body mass index), great cardio, muscle strength and balance? LOL
you forgot about adding flames to your graphics, that gives at least 2 hp
hehe... we had decalworks custom design flame graphics for all our bikes. they were featured on their main website for a while. i think you can still buy a old version of the design for neck braces.
Energy drink logos add 6-8 ponies each
Just jetted my carb for those flame stickers. Never experienced a harder pull across the powerband from my bike.
3hp on 2 strokes, 4hp if used with the green powerband!
More aerodynamic 😂
“Every time you ride clean your brakes” lmao I’ve never cleaned them and they are still perfect
Cable lubrication. Great tips regarding chassis getting bound up and throttle tube but making sure the cables are l lined is critical. Clean pivot points, sliding and rotating components is critical to prevent that “my bikes lost that loving feelin’” after 50-100 hours that so many guys complain about but don’t maintain these systems/components. You go through and clean the bike up, do the maintenance and voila h feels all freshened up!
Aligning the forks can also be done spinning the wheel on the stand and grabbing the front brake.
Hey man, the Coors Classic on the wall is awesome! I'm comin to moto from a long MTB life and I appreciate the straightforward talk and practical advice. I've done lots on the bike, and the best advice I can give is pump up your tires and lube your chain. Kind of universal in its simplicity and this vid followed that theme. Thanks again.
Stickers, lots of stickers!! 🤘🤘
Just about 6 or 9 extra horsepower
This was awesome guys. If you're going to do anything well, you have to first educate yourself. The correlation to HP was great and very helpful. Great to see your knowledge come through, thanks Scott.
You forgot cleaning your air filter lol. The most important
He was giving you a little credit for knowing something...
right i clean my every ride
These are some lesser known tips...not common sense tips.
True story... i bought a dirtbike from a guy REAL CHEAP because he said its not running right. I got home 1st thing i looked at was the air filter. It had honestly about a 1/4 inch of dust on it... i cleaned it and she has been running like a champ every since
Johnny Turbo How do u get a bike and not even at least do the air filter 💀😂 good thing you got the bike getting way better use and care im sure 👍🏻
Here are some torque wrench tips:
1 - never break torque with a torque wrench, only use it to apply torque
2 - don't use it to run fasteners down, use a ratchet, t-handle, or speed handle
3 - only use the ratchet head for repositioning the wrench if you don't hit your setting on the first swing
4 - set it to its lowest value when done, never set it below its range or leave it at the setting you applied
5 - always store it in its case or a shadowed drawer to keep it from getting bounced around
After these awesome tips, I can feel those “double-blips” coming together perfectly now.
Also adding numbers to the plates adds good 5hp.
thanks for posting. Didn't know about lubing the fork seal with a feeler gauge . My friends don't believe me about a clean lubed chain. Oh and the hp gain from non-o ring chain, nice. Don't like o ring chains, now I have a justification for not using them. A chain lube tip: run Bel Ray gear saver in your crank. Save it when you change oil and soak your chain in it until you ride next. Better than any spray lube. *** Found that Honda Pro is best spray lube but haven't tried Motorex.
I'm OK losing 3% hp if it means I don't have to deal with my chain at all for a whole season.
Are you guys kidding? I didn't know Martha Stewart was related to James Stewart! And you hired her for this video! Somebody is bucking for a raise. Never spend money on levers after Memorial Day!
“No cost”.... 5 seconds into the video, “It won’t break the bank” 😂😂😂😂😂😂 NO HATE
Righty tighty lefty Lucy on nuts and bolts, I usually tighten untill they start to strip, then back it up a little, also use red thread locker.
Change your spark plug!
I’ve never had to change my spark plug on my 2013 300 xc. A friend ran the choke until it died and I just turned the choke off and it ran like a champ
@@nepicness that doesn't mean it shouldn't be changed
@@DStabs720 Eh I get what you're saying, but I'm still 40 hours past that and its running great. I could probably check the gap soon or something or just the overall condition, but performance wise there is no problem.
Giday, with the feeder gauge trick, do u do that all around the seal or just the one spot? Thanks great presentation 🇦🇺👌
Check your manual or the master cylinder cover. Some bikes need DOT 5. Mix this up with Dot 4 or 5.1 and you will have problems.
That rear sprocket tip is just great! I have a 250 YZ and it can feel a bit too snappy for me and the front end some times feel a bit too light or twitchy. Maybe it'll help taming the bike a bit while bringing a little more stability to the front end.
Pretty sure you cut the lengthening the wheel base backwards the longer wheelbase provides more stability the shorter wheelbase makes it turn quicker but can cause head shake issues but I haven’t had an issue with this yet in 15yrs or so which could mean it’s no longer an issue on modern bikes but it m not sure to be honest.
I thought he said it backwards also mate haha
Punctuation ...
I think he was wrong too!
Yes,,wrong on fork length,,just the opposite
Throttle tube out an 1/8 of in inch. No binding. Best tip! On it tomorrow. Moving it out an 1/8.😉🤙👍
Instead of giving 1/8” that can cause throttle tube to break on a fall push throttle tube in till it touches lightly then push housing out to tube and tighten there. There is probably 1/16” play in housing to tube and now it doesn’t bind and on a fall it will contract bar and not crack.
Also your right arm isn’t 1/8”+ off center compared to your left now. 👍🏻
Excellent maintenance advice! Just got a new KTM 450XC.
Thank you great details to look at for almost no money at all.
When did David Spade start riding bikes?! Great video tho !
Fantastic tips thank you, this was a very entertaining and informative video!!! 🤙
Great tips 👌
pro tip: clean your pads with WD-40, works wonders 👌🏼
Vital information thank you for the time to put this together. Smart advice
Hydroscopic is the word you are looking for. Brake fluid absorbs water.
hyGroscopic. With a G
Replace brake fluid after every race? What's the justification? Do you think that the heat from a single race has caused a breakdown of the fluid? This isn't oil hydrocarbon chains we're talking about. Brake Fluid stops working well when it absorbs moisture, primarily. If it's sealed, it should be ok, but I'd like to know if there's a physics reason it breaks down sooner.
Think he was talking about those Orange front brakes mostly
@Tommy Ealey "orange" as in ktm. They run fancy brembo brakes, gasgas and husky probably do too. Changing fluid every ride is crazy though
the best way to actually center the front tire is to spin the axle as this naturally makes it centered.
I wash my bike by hand use only car wash and cold water then I sham it dry then blow dry it to get all the water I can’t reach them I lube my chain, all pivot points, cables on both ends I use the little straw to shoot oil up into both sides of clutch and I live my breaks at the pivot point then I use Greot’s garage best of show wax and wax all the metal and I use some detail spray to get to any parts I can’t reach with my hand makes the whole thing look brand new! Then I check, oil, air pressures, air filter, etc! But mine is a street bike 2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000L6 she’s a beast!
One thing no one has ever talked about or done and I now do it with my bikes and the feel of the bike is incredible. The left side of the bike is heavier due to chain, sprockets, chain guards, clutch bleeder line, front brakes assembly. To properly balance your bike you figure closely what each of these weight and it won’t be much and you add wheel weights to the opposite side of the frame or close to the same wires where the parts are located for example the front brake caliper is on the left side so add weight to the same spot on the right side. It will do so much more for a bike than anything I’ve ever tried in my 35 years of riding
Great video and advice. Keep on keeping on!
I thought if the wheel base is closer it'll turn better but won't be as stable....but you say it's the opposite?
I think that was a slip up. You are correct
Rear axle placement statement? Moving back for more front end bite?
Thank you for those tips.
Great video man thx for the insight!
Setup guru!! Thanx bruh
What tool do I need to change my stator cover on a 250 sxf 2012 ktm? Not the stator itself just the cover? Guy I bought it from used JB weld and it's leaking oil out of the cracks
Great video. I learned alot of good tips.
Thx👍
Nice tips! My brake fluid is relatively new but still got darkish in the rear master cylinder, while front does look much cleaner. Might it be because of the high temperature zone where back cylinder is located (right behind the engine)? Should I change the fluid in that case?
The repacking is for both thumpers and smokers?
Great tips!!! 👍
Great tips!! Thanks!!
A bit crazy on the brake fluids...every race😂
Good stuff thanks Scott
I think if you’re going to loosen and retorque the engine mounts and swingarm pivot, you should lower the bike and let it’s weight rest in the wheels first.
really great video thank you for this
Thanks for that very good video
Cool tips
Billet fuel cap should peg the dyno!
Those triple clamps are bad ass
What, lubricant a fork seal? Who in the hell is doing this?
People that notice the "feel " of overtighten a engine hanger.
no one.... garbage
Is this for air forks only??? Sounds like a good way to get leaking seals haha
Yeah I shook my head at this too
Premix Utah the seals he’s lubricating is not the seal for the air. Also opening that seal does not hurt the forks, helps flush dirt out of the oil seal.
As many Chinese anodized parts as you can buy! Most are cheaper than muffler packing! You don’t need muffler packing anyway, bike sounds better without it. If it’s louder, it’s probably faster. Race cars run open pipes. Mufflers are a conspiracy. Loud pipes save lives!
Chinese anodized parts are scientifically proven to have lower drag when going fast. That’s why they ship so fast! The bigger and more over-engineered Chinese folding brake lever you can put on your bike, the better! You’ll be able to hold the gas on longer coming into the corners. The small stock lever is no strong CNC super best, that’s for sure. OEM parts suck. You shouldn’t even waste your time cleaning them or even your bike when you have AliExpress or the Tusk accessories pages bookmarked.
Chinese air filters flow more air. Minimal foam, minimal drag. It’s not rocket surgery. Gluing seems only hinders flow further.
Always invest in good set of ultra shiny designer Chinese brake and clutch levers. Not only do they look super champion #1 best speed, their universal fit will be a guaranteed a winner when your buddy crashes and brakes a lever and it works as a non-working but fashionable lever to get you home. He be like Flavor Flav of the trail.
Last but far from least... your bike will bling so hard that your competition may be blinded or at least intimidated by the look of your bike before the race even starts!
Awesome video
great information
Just checked my brake fluid, is it supposed to be like a mud texture or what, my brakes work great though
Should be a clear liquid lol
@@thomasbeard838 huh, think it’s time to change it?
I finally remembered the advice I wanted to give you today....if it ain’t broke don’t fix it son
How about riding really really hungover, I go faster when I can’t remember what I did the night before.
hy·gro·scop·ic
/ˌhīɡrəˈskäpik/
adjective (of a substance) tending to absorb moisture from the air.
another tip is to exercise your brake caliper pistons.
Im happy with my modification duck bike be a Enduro bike, engine 120cc 2 stroke, already 2 years no Enduro since broke engine, hofe someday cant buy new engine, GBU sir shaloom from west Borneo Indonesia
Here is a low cost option get a CUO for your bike and change the engine maps.
If you have a carb, get a Lectron. Best $500 you'll spend.
a keihen with a stic works amazing! why spend 500$?
I also did the stic metering block. Way better than that poo-tron
@@Relinquish8t if i had the money i would buy a smart carb and be done with it. if your gonna spend that much money on a carb might as well skip the lectron and go all out. otherwise the stic is awesome and works magic!
Lectron caused two engine failures on my Bike, because the set it way too wrong...
Relinquish8t what is the stic?
The right billet aluminum ball protector can add 5 hp.
love the hair!
Good stuff!
And covering the bike with Matthes In A Can will also make the bike faster
Love these videos
Damnm what kind of boots are those? they are slick!
If I raise my forks in triple clamps will it change my rear suspension?
Not really the bike will obviously ride slight lower
Will change handling. Will either make stable but harder to corner or will corner easier but not as stable at higher speeds.
A little, yes. Raising clamps/lowering forks will slow steering and floppy at slow speed, but increase stability at speed and better cornering.
Slow tech usually want lower front and quicker steering, faster high speed and desert you want stability!
Front higher ads a bit of weight to the back and can change sag a tad and change damping a tad.
Old suspension tuner once had me raise the front instead of softening the rear suspension and stiffening the front and it worked because it transferred the weight and the bike handled better because of it.
He just said "shortening the wheelbase improves stability."
😑
just because something is called "brake cleaner" doesn't mean use it to clean your brake rotors. INCORRECT SIR! use soap and water. Brake cleaner will cause squeaks.
I buy a new bike everytime I ride
Get me one big dog. Mine is too small
I'll buy your used bikes
😂
Cleanup the chain/sprockets and front / rear brakes carefully after each ride...
Where and for how much you got the KTM triple clamp
KTM Factory Mattighofen Austria!500€ Don t know If they are Sold Out yet???Because of Corona Lockdown...try IT...or choose THe New X Trig Triple Clamps have a even better forkcalmp Design...
Thx for the tips. Curious why is it a "non O-ring chain is better for motocross, especially the small displacement bikes"?
under heavy traction wich only occurs on well prepared motocross tracks if you are on a lower rpm range yo can feel the difference in acceleration even on a 250F
O-rings create friction between the links.
One reason is there heavier, making more rotating mass.
That sounds like an excellent way to ruin fork seals
Bruhhh I don't have a torque wrench, what am i gonna do now?
chain lube .5 hp lol
Does anyone want to help me understand the chain length rear axle placement scenario?
It's changing the wheel base. Longer wheel base is more stable at high speed but you lose cornering feel. Shorter wheel base the bike will turn easier but can feel Shakey at speed
Fuck up fork seals and waste time bleeding brakes ever month LOL!
Thought bleed forks was coming...
Should’ve named it bike maintenance
Don't think dot 4 and 5.1 are interchangable. I think your talking about dot 3 and 4
4 and 5 is not compatible. 4 and 5.1 is.
@@ericgustafsson9008 your right. I guess I was thinking about 4 and 5.
Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol based and interchangeable. Difference is Dot 3 has lowest boiling point, Dot 5.1 is highest boiling point. Dot 5 is silicone based and does not absorb water. Color is usually purple. If you use Dot 5 in a glycol based system, the brake system's fluid may congeal and the seals may be damaged.
What name is that seat cover?
its stock with new ktm's
2:40 Once a season is good enough.
Bleed the breaks every race? That would mean I’d have to bleed it every time I ride 😂
Its a euro thing ,
It's mind-boggling how much maintenance would be required to do everything by the book, plus all the other suggestions like these...
The manual's checklist for every 10 hours is dozens of items.
And don't forget to have your shock rebuilt every 40 hours and rebuild the entire bottom end and transmission every 100 hours.
@@youtubeaccount9058 150+ hours on a 2016 crf450r and still going strong
Chain lube adds horsepower 😂😂
Adjusting the base timing *
Где взять смещëные кольца?
You can't add "a link". You need to add 2.
New power bands are cheap, too
I thought improvements in performance come in percentage, not numbers/amounts of hp.
He said moving the back wheel forward will give the bike more stability.... Sorry that's the wrong way around
Oil in the throttle tube??????? Are you crazy !!!!!
Tip Nr.1 Buy a Yamaha
The guy isn’t crazy. This stuff is for pro factory riders with pro factory mechanic’s trying to get every possible hp. Out of there bike. Don’t forget to wax your helmet too , possibly 1/2 a hp. Lol.
❤❤❤❤