Been Racing & Riding in the dirt for 51 years and I'm not ashamed to say that I learned some things from this video. This is one of the most useful informative videos I've seen on the internet. There isn't 1 of the 125 items that couldn't be useful to someone. Great job. My helmet is off to you sir.
At 64 I'm getting back into desert riding and restoring some old 2 strokes,I really appreciate your videos and only wish I had seen them sooner! Keep up the good work!
I am a 67 year old and been riding and tuning dirt bikes my whole life. This is the most useful information in one video I have ever seen regarding proper care, maintenance and tuning of your dirtbike. He covers a wide range of years and wide range of fuel delivery systems. Excellent, valuable, usable information.👏👍
I only put filtered water in mine and then don’t dump it till next fill so it doesn’t let air in and grow bacteria. I get a couple years out of a bladder. Also I find Camelbak the least likely to get mold doing it this way.
Been dirt bike riding for 52 years and for my 68th birthday I brought myself a New TE250I Husky . Let's see how many more years I get . Love the Husky, 2 strokes rule . Great video .
This has been one of the best "tips" videos i think i have ever seen. Learned maybe 10 new techniques. And was reminded of probably 5 or 7 more items. Good stuff!
At the 30 second mark, I knew you know your stuff. I've been riding over 55 years and this vid is getting shared with all my buds & family that ride. And not just MX'ers & trail riders. Lot's of good stuff here! And thanks for not ruining the vid with crappy background music while you're talking!!!!
Fantastic, fast-paced and easy to understand. Simple and more complex tips, and a few big surprises that sound great, like double tubing the tire for trail riding. Wow. Thanks!
Rotella t6 for the win. Switch all my bikes to it couple years ago quieted down my hondas and everything runs smooth as butter for basically half the price as gn4 or yamalube
I loved that video! Its precise, brief and straight to the point. The clips and images to support every single tip make it very clear what you are refering to and how to do it, i love it. I subscribbed to the channel not even halfway in the video.
I just got me a dirt bike, and stumbled on this channel... Man , you answered a lot of the questions I had,. Great video, and for that, I subscribed and I hit the like button. Cheers!
As a machinery consultant, the WD40 people taught me it is not a lubricant and it leaves an intentional residue. WD = Water Displacement chem lab attempt number 40. 1958 first sold to the public but developed in '56 meant to spray Atlas missiles outer skin to prevent rust from trapped water. Then we used it on distributor caps on the side of a road in the early 60's for our cars trucks that splash through a puddle and die; sprayed through the dwell adjust window. WD then started making multiuse sprays that are actual lubricants. I use WD40 to get water out of tight spots but follow with a real lubricant. Just sayin ...
hey Jay Paul here-a 65 year old born gearhead with more experiance than you, already knowing and teaching the mechanical technics you just coverd-I just wanted to say GREAT JOB BUD keep it up, nothing satisfies me more on seing more and more younger generations becoming mechanically inclined, I was loosing hope there some years back so keep watching and learning young bloods
You should try 75w-140 differential fluid on your chain. Apply to an old tooth brush and just spin the wheel. Do the top, the bottom and both sides. It doesn't take long at all and it barely even slings off. No more than a typical spray. That one bottle will last you years and you will save a lot of money
Great list of tips! As a long time hydration pack user (probably 30 years) the best trick is to throw the bladder in a freezer in between rides. Also, around here on the eat coast we bend front brake rotors all the time…got to run a guard on the front!
Great tips all of them. Let me add that most of the brake-caps (all Japanese brakes) uses JIS-screws, not Phillips(!). They look the same (almost) but aren't. Whit the right bit you don't ruin the head of the screw 27:50 Ha, ha, should have watched until the end first 😂. Great stuff!
Tip for a stuck seat valve, smack the bowl with a plastic screwdriver handle while the fuel is on, it usually jogs the float valve enough for it to begin working again :-)
As someone who just bought a 22 year old 4 stroke KTM for my kid, I kind of cringed a little bit , but your video was very useful, lots of good tips especially for a new KTM owner.
I have an old bike too, 05 CRF 250R. It has been a lot of work to get it running, and keep it running. Hopefully you have some tools and mechanic “know how”. As someone who owns 3 used bikes, my next purchase will be brand new. I like riding more than fixing. And many times, the old bike will cost as much as new if you actually fix everything on it. That being said, I’m probably going to keep 2/3 of my old bikes, and buy a brand new DRZ for moto camping, and around the city rides. Hope your kid enjoys the bike though!
I don’t understand your hatred for TPI - sure when they were new they had some issues. But I have a 2020 KTM 300 XCW and love it. Idk if I’m just subconsciously bias because I own one. But I genuinely love this bike. Either way - great tips - great content
Some people have lots of hassle others have none.Ive had 2 issues so far 1 at 49 hours-had to rebuild lack of oil and 1 at 58 with a sensor go out.I got a two stroke performance head + ECU tune and it was so good I got a irk kit and it's excellent now but on a expensive bike I don't think you should have to spend $1200 Aus dollar on tuning.I do like the bike but stock was disappointing.I got a simple yz250x as back up it's not as good but it's very very reliable.
@@Ray-ol8bx fair enough - ya I’ve had to change out my sensors but that’s no biggie to me. I keep a few as backup. I very much would like a TSP head and ecu. I agree you shouldn’t have to spend $1200 to have your bike run correctly and as I realize you did - I don’t need that for mine to run correctly. Although I am tempted from a performance gain prospective. So I’m very interested as to your insight
Love love love these tips watch til the end very useful information definitely put in my saved list of videos also just subscribed, thanks jay for all the Information.
Helicoils are used in most aircraft, (including military), for all screws that are screwed into aluminum. If installed well, they work well. They also (like an insert), make the thread stronger, are replaceable, are lighter (big reason for aircraft), stainless steel so they won't rust, and do not require as big of a new drilled/tapped hole as a insert does. How much material you have around the hole to drill for the tap can get pretty thin with inserts. If you don't have much meat around the hole, a helicoil will almost always fit.
Lots of good tips those of us who have been riding forever had learned through experience. One exception would be lubing the chain after washing. O-ring chains are internally lubricated so all you are doing by spraying lube on it is making it easier to collect dust and grit which will wear the chain and sprockets. Better to just spray with WD-40 or something similar to displace the water and then dry with a rag. And cleaning air filters in a bucket? all you are doing giving the opportunity for dirt to get deeper into the filter element and into the engine. Better to buy the cheap pre-oiled one time use filters unless you have an old clothes washer you can put your filter in.
Handlebar fittings - use some self-amalgamating tape. It saves scratching the bars. If you fall, the levers are more prone to move than break. Feather the outer edges of the handlebar clamps. It helps to prevent fatigue cracks in your bars. Bars should be changed every few years. I put a grease nipple in the head-stock. This keeps the bearings full of grease preventing dirt and water ingress. It may give a little damping. I move the handlebar levers further in so that my fingers are on the ends of the levers. It also helps to minimise breakage. If I break a lever, drill each end with about 3mm drill. I insert a cut off Allen key and araldite. The lever is as tough as new. I also do this if I want a longer clutch lever for progressive action in mototrials or fast starts in supermotard. I get two levers and make a longer lever. If I damage a throttle tube, I get on old one and cut two rectangular prongs about six millimetre deep so they fit together. I put on an old handlbar. I put some fibreglass tape of the type used by plasterers and smear with Araldite. In dusty conditions, breathers should have a filter at the end of the pipe. A fuel filter will suit. This includes tank and gearbox. Spokes should all get a drop of 'three in one' oil when new or when you purchase a bike. Seized nipples are a problem sometime in the future. If possible, I put a grease nipple on the rear brake lever and swing arm. After racing, I remove the kick-start and put in my toolbox to make it difficult for thieves. Sometimes, I remove the spark plug. I remove the fuel line so that the carburettor doesn't get a slow weep of fuel. Many taps do not block fuel flow completely. I need glasses. I buy extra large wire frame glasses of a colour to match the bike to give me a bigger field of view. I get non tinted glasses so I can see better even if it makes my eyes ache a bit by the end of the day. Practice touching your googles so you can find the tear-offs rapidly id desperate situations. Somebody reported that they saw me remove a tear-off whilst in a full slide at Speedway at Claremont, a very fast track. When fitting wheel-bearings, I pull the rubber covers and pack with fresh grease. The rubber covers are optional if there are good wheel seals. On Trials bikes, the rubber cover is the wheel seal, so I pack fully to prevent ingress. Make sure the choke cannot be accidentally knocked on. If you have fuses, tape a spare fuse on a cable near the fuse. I use JASO MA oil rather than JASO MA-2 for smoother clutch action on the start line. When bleeding a front brake, I once used kart clear brake line. Bubbles rose up the pipe faster than I could pump through. Bleeding still left small bubbles. If I tapped the pipe, the bubbles rose to the top whence they vacated into the master reservoir. Grease all bolts. Rear sprocket. I locktite the sprocket to the hub then use grease on the bolts so I can check their tightness. I do the same with truck drive shafts. Locktite mating surfaces but grease the bolts. The same applies to the fork tubes in the triple clamps. I remove exhaust studs in the head and re-insert with silver paste. They are a bastard if they sheer. Brake calipers. I use a tiny bit of rubber grease or other lubricant on the cylinders. Not enough to run or contaminate pads but enough to prevent corrosion. Bike tie-downs should not be put on the handlebars. It will promote fatigue in the bars where they enter the handlebar clamps.
For riding at niight you can get battery adapters for a drill battery and put some connectors on the postive and negitive wires to a light/light bar and a 2ah battery lasts around 1.5hrs on a 2x2” harbor frieght light and its super bright. easy to do if you dont mind spending a few minutes to wire and mount it all. i put mine on my number plate bolt it hold very good and the battery is ziptied to the front fender. kinda janky but its worth it.
Awesome tips. Also appreciate you mentioning ICW Radiators. I didnt know about them, but will be aending in my radiators to get yhem braced and straightened. Cheers
Recently had to fix threads for a spark plug. It blew right out of the engine... =( Wish id have found this video earlier... took me weeks of research to find timeserts. They did the trick amazingly. I knew about helicoil, but seeing how they are expecting install i just walked right past. Glad i held out and found timeserts. They are amazing, easy to install and give you a real fix that will never fail and give you steel on steel threads. For spark plugs def the wayt to go. Pricey, but not as pricey as a job done bad.
@@edsyphan3425 Well, it fully replaces the threads. Its a whole kit. Comes with a few tools and the inserts (4 i think). The inset itself is kinda like a tubular sleeve. Firt you use the tool to rethread the original threads to a larger size, next you use the special tool to cut, dirve and fix the sleeve. Its not any more complicated really, just guarantees a fix every time perfectly. When doing spark plug holes, you dont really wanna make a mistake. Helicoils are cheap but they also are known to fail and be really tough and error prone depending on the application at hand. This removes all the worry. You basically cant screw it up and you are guaranteed a fix that will last forever.
I say Dunlop underrated the MX14 scoop tire. They said they designed it to be good on a wider variety of ground, but only pushed it for the sand. That tire is hard to beat for anything golf course hard and softer. Best tire I ever used, hands down, in the Michigan CCC trails. Even with poor low RPM power on 2-stroke YZ250, (for now), I don't have to pull on the bars much to get my front over the next sandy whoop as I had to with the MX33. I don't think any tire today will beat that MX14 in those trails, and Dunlop does not seem to know that.
I like the zip tie idea for getting to the truck with a flat. As far as a good all around tire I always recommend the IRC-M5B. That thing is gnarly and hooks up on anything.
That was a lot of good stuff. 😊 I don’t see how running the rear brake pedal high reduces dragging and heating rear. I’d think it would be opposite..?.
OH sorry- because if its high you will come to a stop really quick and get your foot off of it-- if its level or under you wont feel yourself dragging it -- with it high much more of you leg weight is on it and thus you will feel it slow you down really quick-LOL
I’ll give it a shot! Been fighting rear brake drag so I lowered mine thinking it would get stop my foot from pressing on it without realizing. I’m sure it’s the operator being the problem but it is the 1 thing that I’ve been fighting to the point it’s in my head. You guys are on it, fast reply! Keep up the great content.
Wow thought I was good but wow, wish I was near by. Mentor material. Took me long time to learn how to avoid trail hazard, I’m sure that’s old learned technique to you. I’m 66 years old and am the first to admit if someone teaches me stuff. I’ve learned. Thank you. Wish I lived near by.
My 1 issue is the tires! I ride in the desert & rocky trails, I need the hardest tires available. Eco-friendly or Evo tires are crap. 2 rides and they're done. Maxxis desert tires are the way to go. I'll add your tip about 2 tubes too! Riding the trails at night is nuts. Uhhhhh, how many funnels do you own? Great tips!
Awesome video! And about to buy a 20 year old crf450r lol but seems yo run ok. Also most rebuild kit out there cost almost the same from 2002-2023 very small change in price. And they look almost the same i want it for a supermoto project
I am also with you with the "chain lube" situation. The only thing that they do is attract dirt and sand and wear out the chain. I know it looks corny to have your chain all rusty on the outside if you leave it completely dry, that is why a light oil like WD-40 is good... But I can attest that just running an o-ring chain bone dry your sprockets and chain will last 10x longer.
After almost 50 years of Dirt riding this is one of the most useful info summaries I've seen Than you.
4 sure man, I love this channel. Old Jay Clark is the man, ain't no doubt about it
Been Racing & Riding in the dirt for 51 years and I'm not ashamed to say that I learned some things from this video. This is one of the most useful informative videos I've seen on the internet. There isn't 1 of the 125 items that couldn't be useful to someone. Great job. My helmet is off to you sir.
Great to hear! Thanks for the support.
Jay is the man. Im not currently riding dirt and still watch all his stuff!
Same I’m on a super sport😂😂😂 r1 2020 dam what a machine that is bro
I’ve been riding 42 years and do all my maintenance and rebuilds…but I learned a few things here, thank you!
As a 45 year old rider just getting back in ridng dirt there was a tonne of great bits of information for me.
As a 35 y/o rider.... same.
Same age and thinking about getting back into it too, not ridden since 2004, how's it going?
@ap6584 it's been awesome.e, just take slow steps up , start by riding real basic stuff and it will come with a bit of time
At 64 I'm getting back into desert riding and restoring some old 2 strokes,I really appreciate your videos and only wish I had seen them sooner! Keep up the good work!
I am a 67 year old and been riding and tuning dirt bikes my whole life. This is the most useful information in one video I have ever seen regarding proper care, maintenance and tuning of your dirtbike. He covers a wide range of years and wide range of fuel delivery systems. Excellent, valuable, usable information.👏👍
Comprehensive, as always.... RE: water bladders, I keep mine in the fridge to prevent bacteria or mould build up.
Good tip. I always dry mine and store it ventilated.
Yeah I’ve stuck mine in the freezer for same reason
Luke, I've been doing the same for years. It works
I do the same, wash with warm water then throw it in the freezer
I only put filtered water in mine and then don’t dump it till next fill so it doesn’t let air in and grow bacteria. I get a couple years out of a bladder.
Also I find Camelbak the least likely to get mold doing it this way.
Been dirt bike riding for 52 years and for my 68th birthday I brought myself a New TE250I Husky . Let's see how many more years I get . Love the Husky, 2 strokes rule . Great video .
This has been one of the best "tips" videos i think i have ever seen. Learned maybe 10 new techniques. And was reminded of probably 5 or 7 more items. Good stuff!
Pure gold. All bikers should watch this, not just off-roaders. Thanks for your time and experience.
At the 30 second mark, I knew you know your stuff. I've been riding over 55 years and this vid is getting shared with all my buds & family that ride. And not just MX'ers & trail riders. Lot's of good stuff here!
And thanks for not ruining the vid with crappy background music while you're talking!!!!
Right on Thanks!!
Add-on for tip 46 (Oiling air filters), just use gallon plastic bags, rather than making a mess with your gloves and multiple drain pans.
Honestly I have been riding for my whole life. This was worth my time. Thank you for sharing !!!
Thats great to hear! Thanks for watching.
This is a Must Watch for any rider, especially the DS newbies. Thanks for simple explanations of tips AND the reasons why. Happy riding!
So much good stuff in one video.
Thanks Jay!
Glad you liked it!
Wow. Thank you for sharing this absolute torrential downpour of knowledge!!!! I’ve definitely upgraded my game, just by listening!
Every 4 seconds he drops a nugget that prevents chaos when we ride. Thank you!
Man I am 50years old and I’m riding dirt bikes for 30 years. Your video reminds me my life🙌🙌🙌👏👏👏👍👍👍
Wow!!! Thanks for all the great info with none of the fluffy filler! Outstanding!
Fantastic, fast-paced and easy to understand. Simple and more complex tips, and a few big surprises that sound great, like double tubing the tire for trail riding. Wow. Thanks!
I have always started the engine after cleaning and it helped a lot with rust and gaskets
Awesome video! Watched the whole thing! Will definitely come back to this over time and continue to learn from you. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Baja tire tool is great to putting on a tire. Works so good.
Much appreciated for always giving some really good and really detailed information.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Much appreciated as a newer rider with 2 stroke. Thanks!
He is the Stacey David of dirtbikes! The community loves having you man
You’ve been helping me for yrs now bud thank you for what you do and you do it well!!!!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Handgrips. I put gasoline in the grip. Dumpi it out. Push on the grip and let dry. Fastners that demand.respect. cool video. Thanks
Rotella t6 for the win. Switch all my bikes to it couple years ago quieted down my hondas and everything runs smooth as butter for basically half the price as gn4 or yamalube
Watched the whole way through, super useful! Thanks
Probably the best information in the shortest amount of time. THANK YOU FOR SHARING!!
Glad it was helpful!
I loved that video! Its precise, brief and straight to the point. The clips and images to support every single tip make it very clear what you are refering to and how to do it, i love it. I subscribbed to the channel not even halfway in the video.
I've been riding for almost 40 years but I pulled quite a few tips from this and some things I knew but forgot about.
Ethanol Free Super Unleaded gas won’t leave a varnish in the carb. I had it in my Smartcarb for 4 years and it had zero varnish buildup 👍
I just got me a dirt bike, and stumbled on this channel... Man , you answered a lot of the questions I had,. Great video, and for that, I subscribed and I hit the like button. Cheers!
Thanks for watching and subscribing
I built the TIRE CHANGING STAND for $40.00 in materials and love it. Thank you for the plans
Yes I agree Ive been riding even working on dirtbikes/road rebuilding this is the video serious riders should watch 😅
As a machinery consultant, the WD40 people taught me it is not a lubricant and it leaves an intentional residue. WD = Water Displacement chem lab attempt number 40. 1958 first sold to the public but developed in '56 meant to spray Atlas missiles outer skin to prevent rust from trapped water. Then we used it on distributor caps on the side of a road in the early 60's for our cars trucks that splash through a puddle and die; sprayed through the dwell adjust window. WD then started making multiuse sprays that are actual lubricants. I use WD40 to get water out of tight spots but follow with a real lubricant. Just sayin ...
hey Jay Paul here-a 65 year old born gearhead with more experiance than you, already knowing and teaching the mechanical technics you just coverd-I just wanted to say GREAT JOB BUD keep it up, nothing satisfies me more on seing more and more younger generations becoming mechanically inclined, I was loosing hope there some years back so keep watching and learning young bloods
You should try 75w-140 differential fluid on your chain. Apply to an old tooth brush and just spin the wheel. Do the top, the bottom and both sides. It doesn't take long at all and it barely even slings off. No more than a typical spray. That one bottle will last you years and you will save a lot of money
I've been doing that based off of fortnine's recommendation, but not with a toothbrush. Gonna have to try that!
Merry Christmas man,you had a lot of influence on the purchase of my white 2023 Honda XR650l and I like that darn thing so much thank you!
Excellent video! I learned allot.
Great list of tips!
As a long time hydration pack user (probably 30 years) the best trick is to throw the bladder in a freezer in between rides.
Also, around here on the eat coast we bend front brake rotors all the time…got to run a guard on the front!
Watched it all, it was great!
Man you packed a lot of good info into this video. Thank you
Great tips all of them. Let me add that most of the brake-caps (all Japanese brakes) uses JIS-screws, not Phillips(!). They look the same (almost) but aren't. Whit the right bit you don't ruin the head of the screw
27:50
Ha, ha, should have watched until the end first 😂. Great stuff!
Tip for a stuck seat valve, smack the bowl with a plastic screwdriver handle while the fuel is on, it usually jogs the float valve enough for it to begin working again :-)
Chain lubes, agree. I use wd-40 chain lube or John Deere chain lube the most. They are all messy. Run oring chains.
The tape thing, best tip ever
As someone who just bought a 22 year old 4 stroke KTM for my kid, I kind of cringed a little bit , but your video was very useful, lots of good tips especially for a new KTM owner.
I have an old bike too, 05 CRF 250R. It has been a lot of work to get it running, and keep it running. Hopefully you have some tools and mechanic “know how”. As someone who owns 3 used bikes, my next purchase will be brand new. I like riding more than fixing. And many times, the old bike will cost as much as new if you actually fix everything on it. That being said, I’m probably going to keep 2/3 of my old bikes, and buy a brand new DRZ for moto camping, and around the city rides. Hope your kid enjoys the bike though!
I don’t understand your hatred for TPI - sure when they were new they had some issues. But I have a 2020 KTM 300 XCW and love it. Idk if I’m just subconsciously bias because I own one. But I genuinely love this bike.
Either way - great tips - great content
Some people have lots of hassle others have none.Ive had 2 issues so far 1 at 49 hours-had to rebuild lack of oil and 1 at 58 with a sensor go out.I got a two stroke performance head + ECU tune and it was so good I got a irk kit and it's excellent now but on a expensive bike I don't think you should have to spend $1200 Aus dollar on tuning.I do like the bike but stock was disappointing.I got a simple yz250x as back up it's not as good but it's very very reliable.
I got 80 hours on my 22 ktm 250xc tpi basic matinence an warms up procedure an adjusted the power valve bike runs great 0 issues
@@Ray-ol8bx fair enough - ya I’ve had to change out my sensors but that’s no biggie to me. I keep a few as backup. I very much would like a TSP head and ecu. I agree you shouldn’t have to spend $1200 to have your bike run correctly and as I realize you did - I don’t need that for mine to run correctly. Although I am tempted from a performance gain prospective. So I’m very interested as to your insight
@@Briank-ef5iqya I had a friend who did not do the recommended warm up - and treated it like an carb two stroke - blew his top end reaaaal quick
@@MulTfrancis I believe it. ! To warm it up is simple ! Start bike let idle 6-8 minutes while ur suiting up !
Thank you buddy! Merry Christmas!
Same to you!
OMG. Massive content. Great value vid! Thanks!
This was awesome!
Thanks!
Awesome video thanks for doing this! Knowledge is key for a long healthy life of your machine! Keep rocking it out!
Super awesome list. My husband rides so this is good for me to know 😮😂
Tell him you heard WD 40 on the Grips, Seat and break rotors is what the racers are doing😅
The one with the steering stem helped me so much because I stripped it and painted so I couldn’t tell the difference between the two metals
This is just awesome. Just rattling of tons of great tips!
Love love love these tips watch til the end very useful information definitely put in my saved list of videos also just subscribed, thanks jay for all the Information.
Helicoils are used in most aircraft, (including military), for all screws that are screwed into aluminum. If installed well, they work well. They also (like an insert), make the thread stronger, are replaceable, are lighter (big reason for aircraft), stainless steel so they won't rust, and do not require as big of a new drilled/tapped hole as a insert does.
How much material you have around the hole to drill for the tap can get pretty thin with inserts. If you don't have much meat around the hole, a helicoil will almost always fit.
But with experience, we still all have our preferences for the details. :)
Make me think of my crf.
Lots of good tips those of us who have been riding forever had learned through experience. One exception would be lubing the chain after washing. O-ring chains are internally lubricated so all you are doing by spraying lube on it is making it easier to collect dust and grit which will wear the chain and sprockets. Better to just spray with WD-40 or something similar to displace the water and then dry with a rag. And cleaning air filters in a bucket? all you are doing giving the opportunity for dirt to get deeper into the filter element and into the engine. Better to buy the cheap pre-oiled one time use filters unless you have an old clothes washer you can put your filter in.
Handlebar fittings - use some self-amalgamating tape. It saves scratching the bars. If you fall, the levers are more prone to move than break.
Feather the outer edges of the handlebar clamps. It helps to prevent fatigue cracks in your bars. Bars should be changed every few years.
I put a grease nipple in the head-stock. This keeps the bearings full of grease preventing dirt and water ingress. It may give a little damping.
I move the handlebar levers further in so that my fingers are on the ends of the levers. It also helps to minimise breakage.
If I break a lever, drill each end with about 3mm drill. I insert a cut off Allen key and araldite. The lever is as tough as new. I also do this if I want a longer clutch lever for progressive action in mototrials or fast starts in supermotard. I get two levers and make a longer lever.
If I damage a throttle tube, I get on old one and cut two rectangular prongs about six millimetre deep so they fit together. I put on an old handlbar. I put some fibreglass tape of the type used by plasterers and smear with Araldite.
In dusty conditions, breathers should have a filter at the end of the pipe. A fuel filter will suit. This includes tank and gearbox.
Spokes should all get a drop of 'three in one' oil when new or when you purchase a bike. Seized nipples are a problem sometime in the future.
If possible, I put a grease nipple on the rear brake lever and swing arm.
After racing, I remove the kick-start and put in my toolbox to make it difficult for thieves. Sometimes, I remove the spark plug. I remove the fuel line so that the carburettor doesn't get a slow weep of fuel. Many taps do not block fuel flow completely.
I need glasses. I buy extra large wire frame glasses of a colour to match the bike to give me a bigger field of view. I get non tinted glasses so I can see better even if it makes my eyes ache a bit by the end of the day.
Practice touching your googles so you can find the tear-offs rapidly id desperate situations. Somebody reported that they saw me remove a tear-off whilst in a full slide at Speedway at Claremont, a very fast track.
When fitting wheel-bearings, I pull the rubber covers and pack with fresh grease. The rubber covers are optional if there are good wheel seals. On Trials bikes, the rubber cover is the wheel seal, so I pack fully to prevent ingress.
Make sure the choke cannot be accidentally knocked on.
If you have fuses, tape a spare fuse on a cable near the fuse.
I use JASO MA oil rather than JASO MA-2 for smoother clutch action on the start line.
When bleeding a front brake, I once used kart clear brake line. Bubbles rose up the pipe faster than I could pump through. Bleeding still left small bubbles. If I tapped the pipe, the bubbles rose to the top whence they vacated into the master reservoir.
Grease all bolts.
Rear sprocket. I locktite the sprocket to the hub then use grease on the bolts so I can check their tightness. I do the same with truck drive shafts. Locktite mating surfaces but grease the bolts. The same applies to the fork tubes in the triple clamps.
I remove exhaust studs in the head and re-insert with silver paste. They are a bastard if they sheer.
Brake calipers. I use a tiny bit of rubber grease or other lubricant on the cylinders. Not enough to run or contaminate pads but enough to prevent corrosion.
Bike tie-downs should not be put on the handlebars. It will promote fatigue in the bars where they enter the handlebar clamps.
Wow, I learned quite few things. This was very well done. Thank you!
Nice job on a great helpful video!
Thanks dude
Your videos are life savers
Thanks for watching
So many great tips. Love this !
Not even riding at this time. Still watching Jays videos.
Thanks for watching!
Great informative video thanks👍
For riding at niight you can get battery adapters for a drill battery and put some connectors on the postive and negitive wires to a light/light bar and a 2ah battery lasts around 1.5hrs on a 2x2” harbor frieght light and its super bright. easy to do if you dont mind spending a few minutes to wire and mount it all. i put mine on my number plate bolt it hold very good and the battery is ziptied to the front fender. kinda janky but its worth it.
Nice tip!
Thanks for tips, that I have always wondered about!!
Happy to help!
This is such an awesome video ! Would have been better is it was done back in the 80’s and 90’s . 😂 great job ! 🤙
Glad you liked it!
Awesome tips. Also appreciate you mentioning ICW Radiators. I didnt know about them, but will be aending in my radiators to get yhem braced and straightened. Cheers
Valuable! Thank You for All your Honesty & Effort in Helping Others.
Glad it was helpful!
Love the suggestion to carry a zip lock bag for transferring fuel.
Recently had to fix threads for a spark plug. It blew right out of the engine... =( Wish id have found this video earlier... took me weeks of research to find timeserts. They did the trick amazingly. I knew about helicoil, but seeing how they are expecting install i just walked right past. Glad i held out and found timeserts. They are amazing, easy to install and give you a real fix that will never fail and give you steel on steel threads. For spark plugs def the wayt to go. Pricey, but not as pricey as a job done bad.
How are they different? I hadn’t heard of the Timesert.
@@edsyphan3425 Well, it fully replaces the threads. Its a whole kit. Comes with a few tools and the inserts (4 i think). The inset itself is kinda like a tubular sleeve. Firt you use the tool to rethread the original threads to a larger size, next you use the special tool to cut, dirve and fix the sleeve. Its not any more complicated really, just guarantees a fix every time perfectly. When doing spark plug holes, you dont really wanna make a mistake. Helicoils are cheap but they also are known to fail and be really tough and error prone depending on the application at hand. This removes all the worry. You basically cant screw it up and you are guaranteed a fix that will last forever.
@@PaulKind3d thanks for the explanation
I say Dunlop underrated the MX14 scoop tire. They said they designed it to be good on a wider variety of ground, but only pushed it for the sand.
That tire is hard to beat for anything golf course hard and softer. Best tire I ever used, hands down, in the Michigan CCC trails.
Even with poor low RPM power on 2-stroke YZ250, (for now), I don't have to pull on the bars much to get my front over the next sandy whoop as I had to with the MX33.
I don't think any tire today will beat that MX14 in those trails, and Dunlop does not seem to know that.
Tearing up on a nice hilly golf course is one of my dream rides!
This video is GOLD. Thanks! 🤘🤩🤘
Huge knowledge boots! Thank you!!
I like the zip tie idea for getting to the truck with a flat. As far as a good all around tire I always recommend the IRC-M5B. That thing is gnarly and hooks up on anything.
I think I need more funnels! LOL. Looks like Jay has plenty. Add it to the list next year... Thanks for that great tip list, Jay.
Haha we have tons
Solid vid, im exhausted and I didn't make the vid lol. Thanks for making this and I'm sure i'll reference something in here in the future.
The bonus was all the amazing information
Best video ever! Thanks man!
This is gold!
Thanks!
Very good tips all in one place......took me 55 years of riding to discover some of them.
Right on!
That was a lot of good stuff. 😊
I don’t see how running the rear brake pedal high reduces dragging and heating rear. I’d think it would be opposite..?.
OH sorry- because if its high you will come to a stop really quick and get your foot off of it-- if its level or under you wont feel yourself dragging it -- with it high much more of you leg weight is on it and thus you will feel it slow you down really quick-LOL
I’ll give it a shot! Been fighting rear brake drag so I lowered mine thinking it would get stop my foot from pressing on it without realizing.
I’m sure it’s the operator being the problem but it is the 1 thing that I’ve been fighting to the point it’s in my head.
You guys are on it, fast reply! Keep up the great content.
Wow thought I was good but wow, wish I was near by. Mentor material.
Took me long time to learn how to avoid trail hazard, I’m sure that’s old learned technique to you.
I’m 66 years old and am the first to admit if someone teaches me stuff. I’ve learned. Thank you. Wish I lived near by.
Thank you so much about sharing this all with us!!!
Great video. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for watching!
You’re the flippin man jay!!
Thanks!
WOW - so may great ideas very expertly communicated. Thanks so much!
1/4 thick plexiglass backing behind your license plate works well too. countersink allen head screws work great in brake and clutch master covers.
Nice!! Ton of info all good thanks again!!
Danmm Great Video to watch. It was cool and informative. Watched it all. Thanks mate⚡️⚓️🤙🏾
My 1 issue is the tires! I ride in the desert & rocky trails, I need the hardest tires available. Eco-friendly or Evo tires are crap. 2 rides and they're done. Maxxis desert tires are the way to go. I'll add your tip about 2 tubes too! Riding the trails at night is nuts. Uhhhhh, how many funnels do you own? Great tips!
Great info, thanks for all the help!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video! And about to buy a 20 year old crf450r lol but seems yo run ok. Also most rebuild kit out there cost almost the same from 2002-2023 very small change in price. And they look almost the same i want it for a supermoto project
I am also with you with the "chain lube" situation. The only thing that they do is attract dirt and sand and wear out the chain. I know it looks corny to have your chain all rusty on the outside if you leave it completely dry, that is why a light oil like WD-40 is good... But I can attest that just running an o-ring chain bone dry your sprockets and chain will last 10x longer.
muchas gracias
Helpful info!
Glad it was helpful!