Dude, thank you so much. This saved my bike. I bought an RPS Hawk 250 as a project bike and for my commute to work, and put a Nibbi on it. I have ZERO experience with any kind of small engines/carburetors, and after I first installed the Nibbi it was idling at 4500RPM and would bog down/cut out with any acceleration. I was panicking, but thanks to your video I got it tuned perfectly. Idling at 1200rpm, zero stuttering/bogging throughout all acceleration, and its running BEAUTIFULLY. Thank you so much again!!
No problem glad I could help I definitely wanted to make it easy for everyone to understand. Plus I had a hard time finding anything that explains this process good.
I'm so excited I've never turned a wrench in my life. I'm at 3100 feet got the nibbi pe28fl for my 22 brozz 250 slapped it in stock main and pilot 115 and 40. Started the bike up and freaked out. Closed both like you did went 1 and a half air fuel and almost 3 on idle adjustment amd bam!!!!
I've been able to only tune my carb very basically and just got a new one, which so happens to be a nibbi and never really learned about the jets and inside of a carb besides cleaning them. This helped alot appreciate it
You always start with the main jet, then work your way towards the idle circuitry. Main jet is full throttle. Midrange is dependent on your " JET NEEDLE" Position. Low end on the pilot jet size. And idle with the air/ fuel mixture screw. Which is set at idle, for the highest idle point. Which can be one to three turns out. Any further then three you need to upsize the pilot / slow jet. Which is where you usually get low speed "BOG" if not enough fuel during rapid off idle runs. Float height is very critical, and common knowledge is to always get sparkplug readings for both cruise, and full throttle blasts.
You got it right on point. All my carbs had to adjust the float and on some vm22 I had to adjust slightly higher for the pilot to pick up. Somehow the design had a flaw and the pilot kept screwing inside the carb to the tread and not the seat.
Hey man can you do a video on adjusting the idle on the knock off mikuni? So many people want to see this because mostly everyone has the amazon one. That would be soooooo helpful!
Omg I am driving home right now and cannot wait to try adjusting the air screw first. The idle and tuning my PE 28 has been driving me insane. I hope and I think that this is going to help! Weeehooo
Needle jet is for like 1/4 - 3/4 throttle the needle is tapered so that as you open the throttle it meters the amount of fuel coming through the main jet
Huge thank you for this video brother. I know nothing about engines but bought a used grom clone with a faulty carb. I followed your instructions on the install and tuning to the tee and it worked perfectly! You just made my weekend, huge thanks again!
@@throttlefamily4655 you vid is really helpful I was messing with the settings on a diff carb and kept getting the hesitation on the 1/4 turn when reving. When I start it again tomorrow I’ll play with the fuel mixture screw to see if I can fix it.
I just installed my nibbi carb on my 250cc Templar X Pro 4 stroke and I'm about to start it up so we will see where the idle screw and fuel screw helps.
Man, this video really hit the spot for me. I got a Nibbi carb for a Yamaha I got without the factory carb on it. You just filled in the blanks for me as to why my bike is idling so high. Well done!
I do have a question, If your slow jet is big, will it make the idle stay high? I'm having troubles getting my bike to idle low. Wondering if my slow jet might be big.
I recently replaced my carburetor to a “Mikuni” I bought off Amazon. My issue is the bike bogging in those higher RPMs. Dude you explained everything I need to know unlike other videos I’ve watched where they explain one thing, but not the other. Thank you!!
@@throttlefamily4655 I’m referring back to this video because I’m having carb issues again. Im bogging out on top gear (4th gear) my main jet is at 125 and pilot at 38. I have no issues with idle at all. Only when I get to higher rpm the power is just crashing. I even went as low on my jets to see if it will help.. low as 88 on my main jet. I messed with the needle. Pretty much did everything. I have a new spark plug.. recently changed the oil. Anything you recommend?
@@nicholassaldanatuning a carb can be a big pain in the but and specially when your new to it. I hade also the problem that my bike ( 2 stroke ) would not get in to its powerband. After trying idk how many jets and try a lot of different needle heights. I was slowly getting there. Some times it can take a couple evenings to get it right specially when your new to tuning carbs. Just try and try and probably you will get it right one time. Just watch out that your not running to lean so you don’t damage your engine. 😉😉 that 2 stroke was my first time tuning a carb. But afterwards if heard that ingaf a carb and air filter that where hard to tuning in and get it right 😅😅
Why the best carb for your bike is the one that will come on it! Don't through it away a nibbi carb adds no value to a bike ads like stock parts? Having said that I done the same thing let people convince me it's the first thing you should do! Add see how it rides first try resetting your stock carb!
Rejetting at different altitudes while riding in the mountains seems like a pain in the butt. Wish I knew how easy or tough it would be on the XPro Hawk250.
Great info TF. i got one thats suppose to work on my 1977 suzuki TC 185. thanks for the video. I will definately comment if this thing works. ( classic suzuki ranger)
I just put a new exhaust on my KP MINI 2 days ago and have a nibbi carb. Its still running okay.. Its back firing every now and again when I get on the throttle. Also, Is it normal to have to kind of roll into the rev? If i go from idle and just pin the throttle my bike will bog of stall... if I give it a couple quick revs its fine and when I am out riding I can just send it.. full pinned. EDIT: as I got deeper into youre video you touched on exactly what I needed to know! Thank you! I want to go mess with my carb right now but now I am terrified of messing with that thing. I would also like to add that your explanation on the mechanics and function is amazing
That's not a fuel screw, it's a slide height screw. It's your idle level screw, it lifts or lowers your slide which gives your engine more or less air. The pilot air screw changes the fuel mixture at idle. You have a good hold on what's happening with the carburetor. Good advice to newbies. Good job!
What jets u running I have the 24mm 115 main 45 pilot and it goes good but when I go to flip the throttle in neutral itgoes to bogg out on me dosent die but just bogs
@@throttlefamily4655 do you know if the pilot jet and main jet inside the carb should be screwed all the way in or just until its snug or should they be turned out by 1 turn or 2 because I took them out to clean and put them back in but I tightened them all the way now bike starts up really high revs
Hey man so i got the same carb and when i tune it warmed up and itll run great but if i keep it where it was at and let it cool down i have to turn the red circle up so its rpm is higher but then when i let off the gas and pull the clutch in to downshift it revs extremely high and then will kinda go back to normal and then ill tune it lower and itll idle perfect warmed up again
I just ordered a pwk 28mm for my 1977 Yamaha dt100. It is supposed to come with the right jets and screws. I see a lot of confusing info that this carb doesnt work with a 2 stroke. Are people saying that the two stroke oil reservoir cannot be hooked up to the carburetor? If thats the case, do you just mix the 2 stroke oil straight into the gas tank instead? Or are people just posting bad information. This seems to be hard to figure out how everything gets swapped out and adjusted. This video helped with a lit though, thanks.
U need to do plug cops at idle ,mid range and full throttle to completely tune your carb with a new plug ever time because a plug don't lose color wants it has it so if u want to take it to the next level thats your next step
Good video, thanks! My NIBBI is going to drive me insane so I really appreciate the help. I'm at 6500' elevation and am having a terrible time getting tuned in-going to try 100 main/40 pilot/needle at 3 (middle) today. Getting exhaust popping at 105 main/42 pilot. Thanks again!
For my bike I installed it how it was set at factory, it kicks on no problem but doesn’t want to stay on without me having to give little throttle bumps. What do you suggest I need to adjust?
I Hava a NIBBI Racing Performance Carburetor 32MM Motorcycle Carburetor, would you know where the two hoses on the side of the carb leads to or where it should be connected to on my 250cc motorcycle? I know where the standard hoses, like fuel and bowl lines connect. But the hoses on the side have me at a loss.
I took my carburetor apart and originally it was to make sure that there was no blockage within the Jets before this my bike did not start and after my bike started and would turn on only with the choke and I would have to rev it to keep it running what do you think is my problem?
I have a question nobody else seems to have an answer I'm looking for the clip not the e clip that holds the needle but the one that shaped funny and holds the whole needle and eclip to the round slid on a nibbi 26 mm cant find one since I've been watching your videos you were the one person I thought might would know
engine is a 165FMM (230cc) Valves both at 0.10mm carb is a NIBBI PE28FL with a pod filter. Needle is as high as it can be, (5 slot) air screw is exactly 2 turns out 42 pilot 115 main Slight bog off idle and screams everywhere else. Any deviation up or down on the jetting makes it fall on its face. Line on the side of the float is exactly parallel with bowl flange when upside down How the hell can i get that last little bog to go away. Sucks big time when you need to pop that front end up, and it hesitates. bringing the needle down makes it terrible on the bog, larger pilot one size up (45) and need in any position is terrible. same if i go down one size on the pilot (40) Have to fully remove all plastics, seat, and fuel tank to mess with the needle, and carb with intake manifold has to be removed for jetting. Spent almost 16 straight hours getting it where its at now. Bike is brand new, only 40 miles on it. Original carb was a PZ30 china clone and non adjustable.
Can you adjust the throttle position? I feel like mine is closed and on start (maybe it should be) but it bogs and dies. Could be turning I’ll try this.
I have the knock off Mikuni which worked on my ssr 110 perfect but on my 125 I have to turn the idle screw so far out that its rattling loose so that it isn’t idling crazy high
Lower your pilot jet. I just got the carb and my bike was idling high with the Jets that came in the carb it’s a PE28mmFL stock 112 main jet 40 Pilot. I went down to a 35 Pilot and now I’m actually able to idle normal. Gotta do a couple more adjustments but other than that I’m Gucci.
throttle family okay I think I got the carb adjusted properly, but the Engine bogs and dies wen I give it throttle, do I change my needle jet or main jet?
@throttlefamily465 I have 105cc Phatmoto bike. I like a bicycle/motor bike but anyways I was wondering what nibbi carb would be best for the 105cc the PE19 or the PE22 and what main jets and pilot jets would be best for it?
Hi . I’ve got the nibbi pe26 on my thumpstar 125cc pit bike 2021 model and it’s a Lafan Engine . I’m having trouble with bogging towards the top end of the throttle . I’ve gone up on main jet and gone down on main jet could you help me out with any knowledge before I take my bike to a Field and set fire to it . That’s how frustrated it’s getting me. I also live in the UK so I’m not sure if C level is higher or lower to where you are
@@paulwhittle4653 it sounds like you are running rich try adjusting the ring on the needle jet up a little and it could be oil blow by or it is just running way too rich
when you say change the jets do you mean physically taking the carb apart and unscrewing the jets and screwing new ones in? I just ordered a pe28FL carb and im wondering if its just plug and play with a little adjustment or am i going to have to buy different kinds of jets to get my bike to run properly
Cool video but for a 125cc you have a nibbi pe22 how the heck did you end up at #48 #120 I have a 160 and am panicking #38 #118 is to rich on a pe26 my 140cc runs so good with a pe24 #37 #115 my pe26 was running great till about a week ago now I'm stumped?
Let me tell you my brother thank you for your info it helped a ton, and to tell you my hawk 250 with dong fang engine went 72 with the nibbi pe30, I tried to change my sprockets to 17t/40t and change chain but ordered the wrong ones and the spark plug made the bike bog so I have to tune the carb to it so I’d say it could go 90-100mph or more if I change to street tires and I weight 222Lbs idk why it’s going so fast haha wooo ppl on TH-cam say they are getting it to max out at 75
Just installed my Nibbi and set it at the baseline setting you used. Idles good with choke off but its cutting off over half throttle blip. Haven't changed the jets yet, would I be running too lean or too rich? Just unsure where to start with changing jets, and which ones needed to change.
@@throttlefamily4655 Ok I'll try that setup and see what it does. With the knock off mikuni did you have to change jets with it? If not do you think the fake mikuni jets would fit in the nibbi?
I only get bogging when I try to throttle fast and hard right away I’m new to this but I’m guessing that would be the pilot jet? I’m at about 50ft elevation (this is for the nibbi carb) really need help with this
Hi bro. I have problem with starting engine. 140cm3, Nibbi24 stock jets 112 and 40 and it is hard to start it. I have to kick it with chocke and then trying without it. If it starts I have to hold throttle until it will be hot. How to solve it?
Great video! A lot of good information. Not trying to take anything away from you but you need to check out the video that rollingwrench put out about carbs. It's epic!
Great video man ...I just installed the nibbi on a hawk 250 and it wont start ...I smell fuel like crazy and probably need a smaller pilot jet ...not completely sure at all but I'm trying stuff ...do jets need to be screwed in all the way.. I have no clue about that either...any info would be great
@@throttlefamily4655 I got it right finally ...my bike (2021 hawk) loves this carb ..got more speed more power starts 1st time everytime , it's good stuff ...ur videos helped alot ...thanks man ..ride on !!!
@@throttlefamily4655 Really? Thanks, I was just about to spend the extra money and get the Nibbi too! I would have thought after you finally tuned it, it would have been better than the knock off mikuni but guess not?
@@throttlefamily4655 One thing I didnt hear mentioned is the carb size. Was you engine stock? If it was 28mm might have been a strong factor why you came to the "not that good'" conclusion.
Hey, you got the "air screw" and "fuel screw" backwards". They are visa versa. The one with the thumb wheel is the idle air screw and the one you use the screwdriver to adjust is the idel fuel screw.
I've put a nibbi pe26 on my z155 engine and getting backfire. Would you recommend going up a size or down a size with the jets. Also what jets would be right sizes?
Just installed my Nibbi, what could it be if my bike bogs only when I pull on throttle quickly? Its fine when I do a slow thottle acceleration. Airflow and jets is still factory set to.
I have a 125cc but didnt came with the correct carb it doesnt have power it came with a PZ20 chinese carb but i have ride other bikes like mine an they have alot more power than mine am odering a PZ25 do u think that will do a better job? Or if it those not i will jus have to order main jets.
nice tips, thank you, i just received my first nibbi, going to put it on a 2 stroke 110cc peddel assist low rider i created, you peddleist can eat my grit.. lol cheers
I have the same carb on my pitty, runs sweet. Disagree with you on the fuel screw though i turn mine even one full turn and theres not much difference at all
Hey man, I got the NIBBI on my RFZ 125. Runs awesome with stock jetting (thankfully)! One question: it bogs if you blip it real quick (closed to half) but if you just crack it slowly & steady increase it revs fine. How do I get that bog out? Richen with a bigger pilot or main?
@@throttlefamily4655 I'm changing now from the stock 40 to a 42 and I'll just keep incrementing up from there. At what point do I need to adjust increase the Main? Or can I leave it alone if it's running good from 1/2 to FULL throttle? Thanks again, SO MUCH, for the reply!
@@MIKEDRISCOLL45 I just had to re-tune the Nibbi 24mm carb on my 155 Pister Pro. Stock came with 40 pilot, 105 main and needle set to middle position. My plug was black so it was definitely running rich and was sputtering all over. No bogging. Had trouble idling. Couldn't kick it without any throttle. Had to apply throttle to get it to start off the kick. I need to reverify now with a new plug, but where I finally got mine running great is a 35 pilot, 38 ran pretty good too. Got noticeably worse with a 42. Needle clip at the highest spot (leanest setting), and a 108 main. It idles great, doesn't bog or die off of a quick blip from idle. I'm 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw. It can start with choke off and no additional throttle applied. No sputtering in mid range, and no sputtering on top end. Will refine it now with a fresh plug to verify results. I'm currently at 4500 ft elevation.
I ended up sending the 26mm back & got the 24mm instead. The tech guys at NIBBI recommended a 19mm for a 125cc motor, but a lot of guys on the Apollo RFZ Facebook page says they had success with the 24mm so I tried it. Stock jetting & it runs fine! Still has the blip bog but I tune that out by turning in the fuel knob (higher idle).
@@MIKEDRISCOLL45 So when I was blipping the throttle off of idle mine was actually dying. So that's what lead me to think it was too rich. When I went up to 42 from 40, it was dying even worse. 38 got noticeably better, and 35 was about the same. still pretty good. It was sputtering like crazy in mid range which lead me to believe it was rich. Moved the needle down one setting and it improved quite a bit, but was still sputtering some. Moved it down one more time (highest/leanest setting on needle) and all of the mid range sputtering went away. No sputtering at WOT, but I haven't had a chance to read a fresh plug after a WOT run to see if the main is too lean or not. I did put a 120 in on the main and it was running like garbage. So either the 108 is perfect, or maybe the 110. Hopefully this all helps. My air screw seemed to hit highest RPM at around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 out from all the way closed. I just got new plugs today so will be checking that out this weekend.
I have the knockoff Mikuni VM22 and get aggressive bogging in 2nd gear and such (seems mostly anything more than 15-25% throttle so definitely main jet). Ride in 7,800 to 9,000 foot elevation mostly; how would one go about getting jets for the knockoff Mikuni?
@@throttlefamily4655 THANK YOU!!! That is going to help an absolute ton. I got my Uni air filter installed to my carburetor, tuned the fuel mixture screw and throttle clip, and the bike now runs only on choke but goes through all the gears perfectly on choke. Doesn't idle and still bogs without the choke regardless of idle screw adjustment and such so adjusting to a bigger pilot screw seems essential! I'm gonna open my carburetor up and potentially come back with jet sizes. Thank you, again. VERY much appreciated.
@@throttlefamily4655 By default mine had a K38 pilot and K95 main. Definitely great bogging through the throttle range without that choke. I looked on Amazon and these keihin jets have mixed reviews for the Mikuni knockoff. Some say only the main jets fit and others say they're not working at all. Do you have any recommendations for getting a jet kit?
I bought a nibbi pe26 for my kawasaki klx 140r. I've tried different needle clip positions, different size pilot jets (35 & 40), and different size main jets (105, 108, 110, 112). In all scenarios I can get a good idle, I can get steady midrange rpms, and I can get steady full throttle rpms. In each of these scenarios I have a rapid throttle bog. In other words, from idle, rapidly twisting the throttle I get a bog. Although it won't bog moderately twisting the throttle. Any ideas?
Problem I’m having with mikuni knock off . Bike ran and idled great for a few months. Now it runs great as long as your giving it gas. Let off the gas it won’t idle. Adjusting the idle higher don’t help. Plz help
You will need to take the jets out and clean them I have to do that every once in a while as well I will be posting a video tomorrow that will have it explained in the video
my pitbike runns way too high rpm in neutral and when u ride it it feels like you ride a 80cc but its an 160cc.... what jet do i have to adjust and how much rotations.... i was told to habe the two main jets in the middle all the way in.....
No, if you're talking about the pilot jet, the one on the side of the carb, ideally you want to be around 2 turns out. Fully in should make the bike cut out if not your pilot jet is too rich and need a smaller one. If it bogs on full throttle u need to put a different size main jet, midrange is on the needle which you can adjust needle position to run richer or leaner... Your spark plug will tell you all you need to know on how your bike is running, if to rich or to lean
I have a stock SSR 125, but my main jet seems to be much longer than any jet kits I find online? Know what specific jet form factor I have so I can find the correct one? I have a 38 pilot that is short and round. 85 main that is longer than the typical results online. Im bogging from idle to WOT transition. I assume my main is undersized.
hey question i have a nibbi kit 28 mm 150-250cc carb with 48mm air filter kit.I cant for the life of me find where the idle screw is.Bike runs fine but dies at stop signs and lights unless i leave the choke plunger open. Or warm it up for like 15 minutes.
Dude, thank you so much. This saved my bike. I bought an RPS Hawk 250 as a project bike and for my commute to work, and put a Nibbi on it. I have ZERO experience with any kind of small engines/carburetors, and after I first installed the Nibbi it was idling at 4500RPM and would bog down/cut out with any acceleration. I was panicking, but thanks to your video I got it tuned perfectly. Idling at 1200rpm, zero stuttering/bogging throughout all acceleration, and its running BEAUTIFULLY.
Thank you so much again!!
No problem I’m glad this was able to help you out
Do you ride in the mountains with this bike?... while changing a significant elevation?
Ummmmmmmm, TWINS! Literally my exact story
This video made me understand the mechanics of carburetors and how they work really well , thanks
No problem glad I could help I definitely wanted to make it easy for everyone to understand. Plus I had a hard time finding anything that explains this process good.
@throttlefamily4655 what's kind of carberator u have
@@AC-nr8kk NIBBI PE22 from Amazon
I'm so excited I've never turned a wrench in my life. I'm at 3100 feet got the nibbi pe28fl for my 22 brozz 250 slapped it in stock main and pilot 115 and 40. Started the bike up and freaked out. Closed both like you did went 1 and a half air fuel and almost 3 on idle adjustment amd bam!!!!
I've been able to only tune my carb very basically and just got a new one, which so happens to be a nibbi and never really learned about the jets and inside of a carb besides cleaning them. This helped alot appreciate it
Got a new bike that kept dying when I hit the throttle. This fixed it and got it sounding perfect
You always start with the main jet, then work your way towards the idle circuitry. Main jet is full throttle. Midrange is dependent on your " JET NEEDLE" Position. Low end on the pilot jet size. And idle with the air/ fuel mixture screw. Which is set at idle, for the highest idle point. Which can be one to three turns out. Any further then three you need to upsize the pilot / slow jet. Which is where you usually get low speed "BOG" if not enough fuel during rapid off idle runs. Float height is very critical, and common knowledge is to always get sparkplug readings for both cruise, and full throttle blasts.
You got it right on point. All my carbs had to adjust the float and on some vm22 I had to adjust slightly higher for the pilot to pick up. Somehow the design had a flaw and the pilot kept screwing inside the carb to the tread and not the seat.
thank you so much ❤
Hey man can you do a video on adjusting the idle on the knock off mikuni? So many people want to see this because mostly everyone has the amazon one. That would be soooooo helpful!
like you would on any other
Well you have ti tighten the idle screw and air screw
Next make sure they are in all the way in
Next unscrew them 2 full turns on both screws
Omg I am driving home right now and cannot wait to try adjusting the air screw first. The idle and tuning my PE 28 has been driving me insane. I hope and I think that this is going to help! Weeehooo
Needle jet is for like 1/4 - 3/4 throttle the needle is tapered so that as you open the throttle it meters the amount of fuel coming through the main jet
Huge thank you for this video brother. I know nothing about engines but bought a used grom clone with a faulty carb. I followed your instructions on the install and tuning to the tee and it worked perfectly!
You just made my weekend, huge thanks again!
No problem I’m so glad to hear I could help
@@throttlefamily4655 you vid is really helpful I was messing with the settings on a diff carb and kept getting the hesitation on the 1/4 turn when reving. When I start it again tomorrow I’ll play with the fuel mixture screw to see if I can fix it.
I just installed my nibbi carb on my 250cc Templar X Pro 4 stroke and I'm about to start it up so we will see where the idle screw and fuel screw helps.
Man, this video really hit the spot for me. I got a Nibbi carb for a Yamaha I got without the factory carb on it. You just filled in the blanks for me as to why my bike is idling so high. Well done!
I do have a question, If your slow jet is big, will it make the idle stay high? I'm having troubles getting my bike to idle low. Wondering if my slow jet might be big.
@@calebb9314is your throttle cable too short? I had to trim the rubber to give me more cable for the carb
That zip tie in the camera almost had me thinking a driveway drain was in the frame but it’s just a zip tie 😂
I recently replaced my carburetor to a “Mikuni” I bought off Amazon. My issue is the bike bogging in those higher RPMs. Dude you explained everything I need to know unlike other videos I’ve watched where they explain one thing, but not the other. Thank you!!
You are very welcome thank you
I got the same problem
@@throttlefamily4655 I’m referring back to this video because I’m having carb issues again. Im bogging out on top gear (4th gear) my main jet is at 125 and pilot at 38. I have no issues with idle at all. Only when I get to higher rpm the power is just crashing. I even went as low on my jets to see if it will help.. low as 88 on my main jet. I messed with the needle. Pretty much did everything. I have a new spark plug.. recently changed the oil. Anything you recommend?
Really surprised cause what worked for me before isn’t helping…
@@nicholassaldanatuning a carb can be a big pain in the but and specially when your new to it. I hade also the problem that my bike ( 2 stroke ) would not get in to its powerband. After trying idk how many jets and try a lot of different needle heights. I was slowly getting there. Some times it can take a couple evenings to get it right specially when your new to tuning carbs. Just try and try and probably you will get it right one time. Just watch out that your not running to lean so you don’t damage your engine. 😉😉 that 2 stroke was my first time tuning a carb. But afterwards if heard that ingaf a carb and air filter that where hard to tuning in and get it right 😅😅
I'm also digging on that DC2 Integra with a JDM front swap.
Video is perfect, i get my bike in 5 days and this is the first thing im going to do. Thanks!
Why the best carb for your bike is the one that will come on it! Don't through it away a nibbi carb adds no value to a bike ads like stock parts? Having said that I done the same thing let people convince me it's the first thing you should do! Add see how it rides first try resetting your stock carb!
Rejetting at different altitudes while riding in the mountains seems like a pain in the butt. Wish I knew how easy or tough it would be on the XPro Hawk250.
Super easy man. Look up "hawk 250 pe28mm carb jetting"
Thanks alot got my Gy6 150cc Running Smoothly got full Nibbi kit installed today 😅😂😊.. super 😎 Cool.
Great info TF. i got one thats suppose to work on my 1977 suzuki TC 185. thanks for the video. I will definately comment if this thing works. ( classic suzuki ranger)
I just put a new exhaust on my KP MINI 2 days ago and have a nibbi carb. Its still running okay.. Its back firing every now and again when I get on the throttle. Also, Is it normal to have to kind of roll into the rev? If i go from idle and just pin the throttle my bike will bog of stall... if I give it a couple quick revs its fine and when I am out riding I can just send it.. full pinned. EDIT: as I got deeper into youre video you touched on exactly what I needed to know! Thank you! I want to go mess with my carb right now but now I am terrified of messing with that thing.
I would also like to add that your explanation on the mechanics and function is amazing
Out of like 50 videos I watched this I by far the best one . Nibbi should include a link to this with every carb the sell.
thank you so much i am very glad i was able to help also i very much so appreciate this comment
That's actually a very easy carb to tune it just has some issues that are hard to overcome, especially if it's a little larger than it needs to be.
What about when you go from idle to WOT (like literally idling and just cranking the throttle) and it causes it to shut off??
That's not a fuel screw, it's a slide height screw. It's your idle level screw, it lifts or lowers your slide which gives your engine more or less air. The pilot air screw changes the fuel mixture at idle. You have a good hold on what's happening with the carburetor. Good advice to newbies. Good job!
Fuel screw = idle screw/slide height. Beautiful work
Which direction would lower idle speed?
@@connordillon1312 left
what kind of carberator I this so I can get me one
@@AC-nr8kk the exact carb he’s using is linked in the description 👍
Ty brother these dam nibbi carburetors a pain in the a$$. Just had to drop the main jet down thanks helped me alot
What jets u running I have the 24mm 115 main 45 pilot and it goes good but when I go to flip the throttle in neutral itgoes to bogg out on me dosent die but just bogs
What a legend best explanation ever just what I needed to fix my m2r 125 now it runs perfect
Right on glad I could help!
@@throttlefamily4655 do you know if the pilot jet and main jet inside the carb should be screwed all the way in or just until its snug or should they be turned out by 1 turn or 2 because I took them out to clean and put them back in but I tightened them all the way now bike starts up really high revs
Thanks bro got my 140cc crf 50 engine swap right running perfect
Yo do uk what jets you have installed. I have a 140cc tao tao dbx1 and i cant seem to get the jetting right.
Same engine as mine just on crf 50frame
115 main jet
40 for pilot jet
@@Nate-hw1oe tht makes bike run to rich
Excellent explanation of jetting. Thanx!
No problem you are very welcome!
Hey man so i got the same carb and when i tune it warmed up and itll run great but if i keep it where it was at and let it cool down i have to turn the red circle up so its rpm is higher but then when i let off the gas and pull the clutch in to downshift it revs extremely high and then will kinda go back to normal and then ill tune it lower and itll idle perfect warmed up again
I just ordered a pwk 28mm for my 1977 Yamaha dt100. It is supposed to come with the right jets and screws. I see a lot of confusing info that this carb doesnt work with a 2 stroke. Are people saying that the two stroke oil reservoir cannot be hooked up to the carburetor? If thats the case, do you just mix the 2 stroke oil straight into the gas tank instead? Or are people just posting bad information. This seems to be hard to figure out how everything gets swapped out and adjusted. This video helped with a lit though, thanks.
Good information about your tuning carburetor thanks happy trails
U need to do plug cops at idle ,mid range and full throttle to completely tune your carb with a new plug ever time because a plug don't lose color wants it has it so if u want to take it to the next level thats your next step
“Air is thinner up at 5000 square feet”😂😂😂😂😂😂
Good video, thanks! My NIBBI is going to drive me insane so I really appreciate the help. I'm at 6500' elevation and am having a terrible time getting tuned in-going to try 100 main/40 pilot/needle at 3 (middle) today. Getting exhaust popping at 105 main/42 pilot.
Thanks again!
I feel you may have to go to a 110 or 115
Thank you I always appreciate it when I can help someone
What was your final adjustments
Nice bro thank you. Building up a tw200 and chose the nibbi 30mm. Are tgese carb’s performance carbs, do you noyice a difference?
For my bike I installed it how it was set at factory, it kicks on no problem but doesn’t want to stay on without me having to give little throttle bumps. What do you suggest I need to adjust?
I Hava a NIBBI Racing Performance Carburetor 32MM Motorcycle Carburetor, would you know where the two hoses on the side of the carb leads to or where it should be connected to on my 250cc motorcycle? I know where the standard hoses, like fuel and bowl lines connect. But the hoses on the side have me at a loss.
Heck yeah, good video! I learned a little something today! Thank you!
I took my carburetor apart and originally it was to make sure that there was no blockage within the Jets before this my bike did not start and after my bike started and would turn on only with the choke and I would have to rev it to keep it running what do you think is my problem?
Watching from Tela Honduras C.A ,nice video im gonna try that like the way you explained it 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I have a question nobody else seems to have an answer I'm looking for the clip not the e clip that holds the needle but the one that shaped funny and holds the whole needle and eclip to the round slid on a nibbi 26 mm cant find one since I've been watching your videos you were the one person I thought might would know
This video has helped me understand everything so much better! Thank you 👏🏼
engine is a 165FMM (230cc) Valves both at 0.10mm
carb is a NIBBI PE28FL with a pod filter.
Needle is as high as it can be, (5 slot)
air screw is exactly 2 turns out
42 pilot
115 main
Slight bog off idle and screams everywhere else.
Any deviation up or down on the jetting makes it fall on its face.
Line on the side of the float is exactly parallel with bowl flange when upside down
How the hell can i get that last little bog to go away. Sucks big time when you need to pop that front end up, and it hesitates.
bringing the needle down makes it terrible on the bog, larger pilot one size up (45) and need in any position is terrible. same if i go down one size on the pilot (40)
Have to fully remove all plastics, seat, and fuel tank to mess with the needle, and carb with intake manifold has to be removed for jetting. Spent almost 16 straight hours getting it where its at now. Bike is brand new, only 40 miles on it. Original carb was a PZ30 china clone and non adjustable.
All ima say is thank ya for making this video my G🤝🏾💯
Can you adjust the throttle position? I feel like mine is closed and on start (maybe it should be) but it bogs and dies. Could be turning I’ll try this.
Thanks I just changed my main jet and and tuned my mikuni knock off this helped a lot
I have the knock off Mikuni which worked on my ssr 110 perfect but on my 125 I have to turn the idle screw so far out that its rattling loose so that it isn’t idling crazy high
Lower your pilot jet. I just got the carb and my bike was idling high with the Jets that came in the carb it’s a PE28mmFL stock 112 main jet 40 Pilot. I went down to a 35 Pilot and now I’m actually able to idle normal. Gotta do a couple more adjustments but other than that I’m Gucci.
Should I have the filter on wen tuning the carb? Very helpful vid btw?
Yes you should it makes a big difference.
throttle family okay I think I got the carb adjusted properly, but the Engine bogs and dies wen I give it throttle, do I change my needle jet or main jet?
@throttlefamily465 I have 105cc Phatmoto bike. I like a bicycle/motor bike but anyways I was wondering what nibbi carb would be best for the 105cc the PE19 or the PE22 and what main jets and pilot jets would be best for it?
Great information brotha! You guys are rockin the subs pretty fast it seems. 👍
Hi . I’ve got the nibbi pe26 on my thumpstar 125cc pit bike 2021 model and it’s a Lafan Engine . I’m having trouble with bogging towards the top end of the throttle . I’ve gone up on main jet and gone down on main jet could you help me out with any knowledge before I take my bike to a Field and set fire to it . That’s how frustrated it’s getting me. I also live in the UK so I’m not sure if C level is higher or lower to where you are
Have you taken your spark plug out and s checked what color it is?
@@throttlefamily4655 ye it was black as Cole so got new one
Also can I ask you one more question
What does it mean for when I start my bike for the 1st black smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe
@@paulwhittle4653 it sounds like you are running rich try adjusting the ring on the needle jet up a little and it could be oil blow by or it is just running way too rich
So what the air fuel screw before you turn it a half and then fullturn do you want it all the way in?
when you say change the jets do you mean physically taking the carb apart and unscrewing the jets and screwing new ones in? I just ordered a pe28FL carb and im wondering if its just plug and play with a little adjustment or am i going to have to buy different kinds of jets to get my bike to run properly
Cool video but for a 125cc you have a nibbi pe22 how the heck did you end up at #48 #120 I have a 160 and am panicking #38 #118 is to rich on a pe26 my 140cc runs so good with a pe24 #37 #115 my pe26 was running great till about a week ago now I'm stumped?
Let me tell you my brother thank you for your info it helped a ton, and to tell you my hawk 250 with dong fang engine went 72 with the nibbi pe30, I tried to change my sprockets to 17t/40t and change chain but ordered the wrong ones and the spark plug made the bike bog so I have to tune the carb to it so I’d say it could go 90-100mph or more if I change to street tires and I weight 222Lbs idk why it’s going so fast haha wooo ppl on TH-cam say they are getting it to max out at 75
awesome video guys. yall rock it
Thank you
I got 28mm nibbi round slide carb running 115 in MJ, 38 in PJ. It's really hard to tune.
Can you do a video on adjusting the valves?
i have a ssr 125 with the bogging oem cab witch nibi carb did you order
I have the links in the description but the best one I have is my second newest video in the description
Great video! One question, where is the choke on the Nibbi carb, and when starting cold would it be up or down?
Sorry I just saw this comment it should be a pull tap on it near the top and you pull it up for the choke on.
Mine idles and runs great but when im in gear it sputters between ¼ and ¾ throttle. How can i fix this
Just installed my Nibbi and set it at the baseline setting you used. Idles good with choke off but its cutting off over half throttle blip.
Haven't changed the jets yet, would I be running too lean or too rich? Just unsure where to start with changing jets, and which ones needed to change.
This is when you have to pull the spark plug put and see what it looks like I played the guessing game for a while before I finally got it dialed in
@@throttlefamily4655 Makes sense, would you happen to remember what size jets you swapped to? I have a kit on the way.
@@dylanmoore1006 I want to say I was running a 115 main and the pilot I think was a 42
@@throttlefamily4655 Ok I'll try that setup and see what it does. With the knock off mikuni did you have to change jets with it? If not do you think the fake mikuni jets would fit in the nibbi?
@@throttlefamily4655 also do you have to drop both jets in size when changing or can you just change one?
Is it the stock jetting you used or did you change the jetting in the nibbi??
Changed it
I only get bogging when I try to throttle fast and hard right away I’m new to this but I’m guessing that would be the pilot jet? I’m at about 50ft elevation (this is for the nibbi carb) really need help with this
Yes that would be the pilot jet
I know you said you use 120 and 48 but your at a higher elevation so should I be running bigger?
My exhaust glows red when idling for a few minutes. I can’t undo my idle screw any more, any suggestions please?? Great video
It sounds like you may need to install bigger jets may be running to lean
@@throttlefamily4655 I got bigger main jets I can use, I’m using a 95 atm. Do I need a bigger pilot jet too or can I just upsize on the main jet.
@@connorjack3246 yes go bigger
Hi bro. I have problem with starting engine. 140cm3, Nibbi24 stock jets 112 and 40 and it is hard to start it. I have to kick it with chocke and then trying without it. If it starts I have to hold throttle until it will be hot. How to solve it?
Ok right off throttle and it cuts out would that be bigger pilot jet
I have a pe28 carb and my elevation is at ‘222 elevation what pilot and main should I run and my dirtbike runs really lean backfires a lot
Love all the carb videos i just got a 125tr with a 140 piranha conversion and ive been trying to get it running right
What jets
Got the same problem with that same motor. Did you ever fix it up?
I have the same set up and would love to know what size jets and what size Nibbi you are running
Spread the knowledge man. Great video
Thank you.
Great video! A lot of good information.
Not trying to take anything away from you but you need to check out the video that rollingwrench put out about carbs. It's epic!
Great video man ...I just installed the nibbi on a hawk 250 and it wont start ...I smell fuel like crazy and probably need a smaller pilot jet ...not completely sure at all but I'm trying stuff ...do jets need to be screwed in all the way.. I have no clue about that either...any info would be great
Definitely too much fuel will make your bike not run at all
And yes the jets do need to be snug
@@throttlefamily4655 I got it right finally ...my bike (2021 hawk) loves this carb ..got more speed more power starts 1st time everytime , it's good stuff ...ur videos helped alot ...thanks man ..ride on !!!
So what's the final verdict, is it worth tuning the Nibbi or just going with the knock off Amazon mikuni?
Get the knock off amazon mikuni
@@throttlefamily4655 Really? Thanks, I was just about to spend the extra money and get the Nibbi too! I would have thought after you finally tuned it, it would have been better than the knock off mikuni but guess not?
Tony Alves yea they are not that good I even ordered a knock off mikuni for mine
@@throttlefamily4655 One thing I didnt hear mentioned is the carb size. Was you engine stock? If it was 28mm might have been a strong factor why you came to the "not that good'" conclusion.
Hey, you got the "air screw" and "fuel screw" backwards". They are visa versa. The one with the thumb wheel is the idle air screw and the one you use the screwdriver to adjust is the idel fuel screw.
Can someone confirm this
Thumb wheel is throttle stop adjustment which sets idle speed, screwdriver screw is air screw.
I've put a nibbi pe26 on my z155 engine and getting backfire. Would you recommend going up a size or down a size with the jets. Also what jets would be right sizes?
Just installed my Nibbi, what could it be if my bike bogs only when I pull on throttle quickly? Its fine when I do a slow thottle acceleration. Airflow and jets is still factory set to.
On my 125cc I used 45 pilot jet a 120 main and I think that’s the sweet for evey 125 to be honest
Hey where I can get more yet’s my Nibbi do not came with 120 or 45 Lol
Some niddle jet pins have more slots than others some have 5 slots to adjust
Should I buy this brand?
I have a 125cc but didnt came with the correct carb it doesnt have power it came with a PZ20 chinese carb but i have ride other bikes like mine an they have alot more power than mine am odering a PZ25 do u think that will do a better job? Or if it those not i will jus have to order main jets.
got one of these for my go kart having issues tuning it, it will run on stands wheels spinning, you put it on the ground and it dies
it would run with the air screw turned in the whole way
I just bought the nibbi for my 2021 ssr 125. Will I have to change the jets on it? Or can I just install and tune it and it will be ok
So if you're coming from sea level to 5,000 SF, you're forced to change the jets manually by taking out the carb? Air/fuel mixture wont help?
When I turn choke my engine and when I take choke it doesn’t jerk
nice tips, thank you, i just received my first nibbi, going to put it on a 2 stroke 110cc peddel assist low rider i created, you peddleist can eat my grit.. lol cheers
What size jet did you use in this video?
me and my cousin are getting these
I have the same carb on my pitty, runs sweet. Disagree with you on the fuel screw though i turn mine even one full turn and theres not much difference at all
Hey man, I got the NIBBI on my RFZ 125. Runs awesome with stock jetting (thankfully)! One question: it bogs if you blip it real quick (closed to half) but if you just crack it slowly & steady increase it revs fine. How do I get that bog out? Richen with a bigger pilot or main?
You may need a bigger pilot jet
@@throttlefamily4655 I'm changing now from the stock 40 to a 42 and I'll just keep incrementing up from there.
At what point do I need to adjust increase the Main? Or can I leave it alone if it's running good from 1/2 to FULL throttle? Thanks again, SO MUCH, for the reply!
@@MIKEDRISCOLL45 I just had to re-tune the Nibbi 24mm carb on my 155 Pister Pro. Stock came with 40 pilot, 105 main and needle set to middle position. My plug was black so it was definitely running rich and was sputtering all over. No bogging. Had trouble idling. Couldn't kick it without any throttle. Had to apply throttle to get it to start off the kick. I need to reverify now with a new plug, but where I finally got mine running great is a 35 pilot, 38 ran pretty good too. Got noticeably worse with a 42. Needle clip at the highest spot (leanest setting), and a 108 main. It idles great, doesn't bog or die off of a quick blip from idle. I'm 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw. It can start with choke off and no additional throttle applied. No sputtering in mid range, and no sputtering on top end. Will refine it now with a fresh plug to verify results. I'm currently at 4500 ft elevation.
I ended up sending the 26mm back & got the 24mm instead. The tech guys at NIBBI recommended a 19mm for a 125cc motor, but a lot of guys on the Apollo RFZ Facebook page says they had success with the 24mm so I tried it. Stock jetting & it runs fine! Still has the blip bog but I tune that out by turning in the fuel knob (higher idle).
@@MIKEDRISCOLL45 So when I was blipping the throttle off of idle mine was actually dying. So that's what lead me to think it was too rich. When I went up to 42 from 40, it was dying even worse. 38 got noticeably better, and 35 was about the same. still pretty good. It was sputtering like crazy in mid range which lead me to believe it was rich. Moved the needle down one setting and it improved quite a bit, but was still sputtering some. Moved it down one more time (highest/leanest setting on needle) and all of the mid range sputtering went away. No sputtering at WOT, but I haven't had a chance to read a fresh plug after a WOT run to see if the main is too lean or not. I did put a 120 in on the main and it was running like garbage. So either the 108 is perfect, or maybe the 110. Hopefully this all helps. My air screw seemed to hit highest RPM at around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 out from all the way closed. I just got new plugs today so will be checking that out this weekend.
I have the knockoff Mikuni VM22 and get aggressive bogging in 2nd gear and such (seems mostly anything more than 15-25% throttle so definitely main jet). Ride in 7,800 to 9,000 foot elevation mostly; how would one go about getting jets for the knockoff Mikuni?
They use the Kiehn size jets and you can get them off Amazon
@@throttlefamily4655 THANK YOU!!! That is going to help an absolute ton. I got my Uni air filter installed to my carburetor, tuned the fuel mixture screw and throttle clip, and the bike now runs only on choke but goes through all the gears perfectly on choke. Doesn't idle and still bogs without the choke regardless of idle screw adjustment and such so adjusting to a bigger pilot screw seems essential! I'm gonna open my carburetor up and potentially come back with jet sizes. Thank you, again. VERY much appreciated.
@@GamingWithFusion your welcome and you are definitely on the right track 👍
@@throttlefamily4655 By default mine had a K38 pilot and K95 main. Definitely great bogging through the throttle range without that choke. I looked on Amazon and these keihin jets have mixed reviews for the Mikuni knockoff. Some say only the main jets fit and others say they're not working at all. Do you have any recommendations for getting a jet kit?
@@GamingWithFusion they have worked for me also I believe I was running a 42 and a 115 but I can’t remember off the top of my head
My bike will only run with my hand over where the filter should be but doesn’t want to stay running idk what’s wrong with it any help appreciated
Just uploaded a video that should help that definitely means it’s not getting enough fuel
I bought a nibbi pe26 for my kawasaki klx 140r. I've tried different needle clip positions, different size pilot jets (35 & 40), and different size main jets (105, 108, 110, 112).
In all scenarios I can get a good idle, I can get steady midrange rpms, and I can get steady full throttle rpms.
In each of these scenarios I have a rapid throttle bog. In other words, from idle, rapidly twisting the throttle I get a bog. Although it won't bog moderately twisting the throttle.
Any ideas?
Sounds like you need a bigger pilot jet Try one size up to 42.
Hey man I have a 127cc engine, what do you think is the optimal size nibbi carb to run..?
My bike only runs on the choke after putting the nibbi on and won’t idle down, help???
Problem I’m having with mikuni knock off . Bike ran and idled great for a few months. Now it runs great as long as your giving it gas. Let off the gas it won’t idle. Adjusting the idle higher don’t help. Plz help
You will need to take the jets out and clean them I have to do that every once in a while as well I will be posting a video tomorrow that will have it explained in the video
my pitbike runns way too high rpm in neutral and when u ride it it feels like you ride a 80cc but its an 160cc.... what jet do i have to adjust and how much rotations.... i was told to habe the two main jets in the middle all the way in.....
No, if you're talking about the pilot jet, the one on the side of the carb, ideally you want to be around 2 turns out. Fully in should make the bike cut out if not your pilot jet is too rich and need a smaller one. If it bogs on full throttle u need to put a different size main jet, midrange is on the needle which you can adjust needle position to run richer or leaner... Your spark plug will tell you all you need to know on how your bike is running, if to rich or to lean
I have a stock SSR 125, but my main jet seems to be much longer than any jet kits I find online? Know what specific jet form factor I have so I can find the correct one? I have a 38 pilot that is short and round. 85 main that is longer than the typical results online. Im bogging from idle to WOT transition. I assume my main is undersized.
hey question i have a nibbi kit 28 mm 150-250cc carb with 48mm air filter kit.I cant for the life of me find where the idle screw is.Bike runs fine but dies at stop signs and lights unless i leave the choke plunger open. Or warm it up for like 15 minutes.
I’m not to familiar with the 28mm carb sounds like the pilot jet may be too big considering it takes a while to warm up
@@throttlefamily4655 ahhh makes sense thanks
What is your needle position currently set at with the Nibbi 26mm carb?
Right in the middle
Awesome I hope I can finally get this carb tuned!
I’m sure you will be able too if I can do it you can do it!
1 more question... How was the bike running with the jetting setup you used? Was the spark plug the right color and did the bike feel good?
Bar3ar bike runs great and spark plug is perfect
Is the choke on when it is popped up or pushed in