This show is six years old and still getting comments!! I'm working through this swap now on my 00 XJ and using Martin's show's on the topic as the go to for information. Thank You!!!
Thank you for the kind words. Yes the whole combination of front, rear and master cylinder gives you some real reassurance that your going to able to stop. I did the ZJ rear disc on my. The only thing I wish I had done was to get the rotors and pads from ATL Auto Sports. I would have gotten slotted an drilled zinc coated with pads for less then I paid at Autozone for standard rotors.
Good choice welding with stainless. More nickel content also can help with welding cast. Perfect heat up and cool down. Martinbuilt: thanks for telling about the 1/4” thick spacer very nice choice on the disk.
I'm doing this to my 93 XJ. One of the upgrades the precious owner didn't do. XJ sits on 37's with a 6inch lift. Just about everything upgraded besides the front. The XJ didn't run and drive when the last owner had it. The drive line was rubbing making it seem like the transfer case. Overall I've been looking for a decent upgrade to my brakes and this is it. I can't wait to do it.
The video was great I've heard of this conversion before and wanted to do it and now I feel more comfortable doing so , I have the terra flex rear disc kit now that was an improvement in its self and now with this video and the Durango master cylinder video I'm sure I will have some great breaks
I'm not positive but I believe that this swap should work on a ZJ. Maybe one thing that may be a problem would be the anti-lock brakes. Compare your ZJ part numbers with the XJ. Like upper and lower ball joint. Bearing hub assembly. I would think it is doable.
All the WJ's have a low pinion whitch a big disadvantage. The other difference is the WJ is wider by few inches. That is not a bad thing but it is different than the XJ, ZJ.
I did miss understand. I have done the ZJ conversion on my XJ and one other but never did a video on it. I have a neighbor that wants to do the same conversion and has all the stuff. I'm sure that I'll end up doing the mod for him and at that time I'll do a video on it.
If you want faster,easier steering. Bolt on a steering box from a 96 -03 S-10 pickup. It's the same exact box as an XJ or ZJ,it's just a faster steering ratio. Bolts right on,no modifications necessary. While you're at it,might as well bolt on a steering box stabilizer. That's the main reason XJ & ZJ steering boxes leak from the pitman arm shaft seal. They flex or the bearing gets loose because of the flex then it leaks. Steering box stabilizer really helps. Thanks for the video. Did you have to clearance the calipers,so the rims didn't sctape?
Beautiful work. The 35" tires on my XJ are a little tougher to slow down than I'd like and I'd love to do something like this. I'll need to invest a bit more in my shop before though. I'm thinking a lot of the improvement in steering you felt was probably from your sloppy lower ball joints. I just replaced mine and it made a world of difference in handling.
Arien Mcclure I 've got a hard time believing that the 00-01 bearing hubs don't need the spacer. The only thing that I can see different between the 97-99 hub and the 00-01 is the later has longer wheel studs. Most people that are saying you don't need the spacer are getting this info from a forum. Forums are great places to get the info but not always correct. As I said in the video about the lower ball joint needs to be replaced with ones from a WJ but, if you read on some forums you'll find people that have used the stock lowers. I can guarantee that is not correct. To those people that are saying that the 00-01 need no spacer are you speaking form experience or something you read.
Yes you would need the spacers. WJ unit bearings are the same other then they are heaver duty but not worth the effort with having to redrill to a 4.5x5 pattern. Unless you wanted the 5x5 pattern. There is a web site out there that claims that the WJ bearings will work without the spacer, NOT true because I have tried. I would stick with the XJ unit bearings.
martinbuilt please can you send me a link to where I can get that same exact dual piston calipers. By the way your video is very helpful and easy for me to follow thanks a lot.
Hi martin its Brian again How about a review of all the mods you have completed to date on your XJ and those which you propose in the future The future looks good ! Cheers Brian
@@nickjames6241 cause they are the same I think as like the 06 TJ rubicon model hubs in the way of being slightly different in build specs don't know why that is but it just is. Also if you use the Rubicon ones they have longer lugs to them just in case you are gunna run spacers or something to make 15" wheels work note you can run 15" wheels if they are the right offset and are thinner steelie wheels without grinding the top of the caliper. I don't recommend spacers personally you are not putting proper load on the hub at that point and you will probably get pre mature ware out of said hubs if you run any spacers that's how I see it and understand it all to be.
Addition to my previous comment - extremely good tutorial and you should definitely look for sponsors because with a good attitude and a face better than Babe Ruth and a good explanation of things as well as how to do it properly is exactly what those guys on shows like trucks and Car Fix are doing so you might as well try and get some free shit out of it at the very least! Great job. And if you are into health supplements/ staying young and stuff like that respond to my comment and I'll send you some stuff
Great video Martin. I'm currently running the IRO OTK kit on my ZJ, about to try a custom Y link setup from Ruff Stuff, may try this next if the new setup doesn't give me the performance I'm looking for.
Thank you for your comments. this is one of my favorite mods especially when it comes time to stepping on the brakes hard. I know with these 3's it will stop.
On my 02 Dakota has 03-04 steering knuckles and brakes on it as the 03 and 04 has same geometry and the 03 and 04 has the Dual piston caliper larger rotor and the caliper pads don't ride on the steering knuckle it's part of the caliper like it should be on the 03 and fours
Great detailed video, best I’ve seen to date. Question will this conversion work on an 05 wrangle rubicon? As you may know it comes with a “dana 44” but from my research it appears these parts come off certain dana30s which cross over to some dana44… in particular TeraFlex makes a double arm knuckle that fits both d30/44 but costs over $500 any advise appreciated. Thanks Rick
you can get them al at the local junk yard i pulled the entire front axle from a wj fore $126 they price them from rotor to rotor and the one i found had brand new rotors pads and calipers then i should the axle for $80 so its all about luck really
I don't want to be "that guy" internet mechanic, but since this is safety related I thought I'd type something. Rather than add threads to the end of that bar by welding nuts to it, wouldn't it be better and safer to cut the bar and sleeve it to extend it?
Martin, thanks again for all your hard work and attention to detail. I saw a video for Rusty's where they upgrade the steering on a commanche. I'm sure you've seen it. My question is whether you think the Rusty's track bar bracket would work with this setup? The Rusty's bracket sits atop the axle. I suppose it changes the length/angle of the track bar, but it looks close. Also, the steering links themselves look pretty easy to fabricate, no? Thanks again, well done.
this is a great, well explained video. i just have one question i was kind of confused about. which knuckle did you use? because in the video you said you used the cherokee (xj) knuckle but a caption box said you'd need both grand cherokee (wj) knuckles
I am about to start a makeover on the front end of my 96 ZJ. Unlike the video I want to get all new Bearing hubs with a 5x5 lug pattern for the 17" wheels i have. No lug adapters or wheel spacers desired. That leads me to WJ hubs which come with a 5x5 lug setup, hence all WJ parts with no re-drilling the rotors for 5x4.5. OK so here's the question. Will there be any fitment issues with the WJ hub going on to the outer axle spline with enough length to nut and cotter this all together on the final step of the knuckle install? Also, if there is some reason that this all WJ setup would need the JKS spacer and the Caliper spacers, let me know and i'll get them and get going. Great video, great advice... thanks for taking the time with this question.
Hi, I went to pull the knuckles and calipers from a WJ today, but didn't bring a big enough hammer, so I'll have to go back. My question is, what about the ABS stuff? I don't have ABS on my '96. There is a cog wheel on the bearing unit for ABS. Do I just discard all of it?
Hi Martin, I hve been recently (w/ball joints) people are not using xj uppers & wj lowers. What I've been seeing/reading (forums) is JK ball joints. Can U confirm this? Is this false. I ask because there beefy-er. Thank U, jasonC
i enjoyed this, ive been researching this for some time now. thanks for the video, also nice radius arm setup, im running tnt's kit and bilsteins too :D
because without it the axle shaft will not be in the middle of the knuckle and as you turn left and right the axle shaft will move in and out of the axle tube that is not a good thing
Out of all the mods I've ever done to my XJ this is got to be on the top five on my list.. the breaking alone that I've achieved with these rotors and calipers is well worth it. Before I couldn't even come close to locking up any of the tires, now with the combination of the ZJ disc brakes in the rear and the Durango master cylinder I can easily lock up all four and I'm running 35 in tires. I believe I spent around $400 and that was mine most of the stuff new. I could have done it for one third of the cost if I would have used all junkyard parts.
Hello, first I want to thank you for this great video. I have a doubt. Is it possible to make this change and keep the original wheels with 2.5" spacers? (This is how I currently have it. And 31 x 10.5 tires)
@@martinbuilt thanks for your answer. I had that doubt because some people have told me that I had to change my 15 rims for 16 rims as a minimum. I'll get to work on this change then. Thank you so much.
I'm confused. In the beginning didn't he say you have to use the factory XJ upper and lower ball joint because the grand Cherokee ball joint was too big?? And then join the video he said you Have to use the grand Cherokee ball joint for the lower??
Great video! I have a 97 TJ with 04 Rubicon 44s and the WJ conversion. Running 17" Walker Evans Beadlocks with 35" Pro Comps (110 lbs total per corner). It's my DD. No steering stabilizer, don't need it. And it stops better than a stock TJ. Where did you get the brand new Akebono calipers? My right caliper froze up and I had to put on a reman. Would like to replace both with new calipers.
You can but I don't recommend it. Because the bearing hub assembly sets into the knuckle but with the spacer it does not and you're putting the entire load on the three bolts that hold the bearing hub assembly in
Well I bought new rotors, pads and calipers which no doubt up surprise but I was able to do it all for around 500. If you went with used calipers, rotors I think you could probably get it down to around 200
very good i was worried for a tad about crossover im running my dana30 on my s10 sas for now since my cherokee got into a rear end colision using what i have for now
would it be possible to run that iron rock kit with out modification on the bottom knuckle and not utilize the top knuckle for the drag link? i know its not ideal like the cross over these knuckles alow for, but i would think that would avoid a lot of hassle relocating the track bar and keep the geometry the same.
you must live where there is no salt or a lot of rain. my 95 xj did not come off that easy especially the hub. what about the back you can convert it from drum to rotor from a wj.
Yes I live in Southern Nevada it is very dry here. I did convert the rear axle as well using the ZJ disc brakes, you can also use the ones from a Jeep Liberty.
Why is the spacer necessary? I've never seen them referenced in any other videos. But I have to say myself, welding the spacer seems unneeded with the assembly being bolted together.
May I get this a lot. For one why would JKS make the spacer if it wasn't necessary. It is required to correct geometry for the axle and center the joint. As you turn the steering wheel the axle would move in-and-out of the differential if you did not have the spacer. Now the spacer that I put on the brake caliper brackets that may or may not be needed depending on what year bearing hub assembly you are using.
@@martinbuilt Just asking because I had never seen any reference to it before. Now looking at the JKS site they say it's to align the axle shaft & "Brake Caliper".
is the spacer completely necessary that you welded on the knuckle? i haven't heard mention of it in this conversion till this video. Also can i use my origional rotors on this upgrade?
Yes the spacer is totally necessary without it as you turn your steering wheel the axle shaft will move in-and-out of the axle tube. The spacer recorrects the alignment of the axle shaft and prevents the axle shaft from moving in-and-out of the tube.
Heard you should use nickel 99 welding rods and a stick welder for welding steel to iron. Can anyone confirm this? I'm about to tackle this job in the next month or so.
I want to do this, but I dont want to have to relocate my track bar. I just put on a new RE track bar and bracket. I also have a 15" rim with a 4.5" backspace.... Did you find that the ZJ rear break swap help stopping? or just stability? I've heard different things on them. Thanks! Luke
great vid! i hoping to get a ZJ soon with a rustys lift ad the same brake mod you did. Do you have any step by step instructions on any forums you might suggest? ( besides your detailed vid of course)
I have the same Iron Rock tie rod and drag link kit as you. What bolts did you use to go from single point bracket to double on the passenger side? And were yours too short to connect properly?
Paul Sheer looks like the Grand Cherokee knuckle is shallower than the xj part, so the driveshaft would be too long, but you can't shorten the driveshaft because the universal joint has to be in the same place.
How much of a difference is the knuckles? My platform is a 93 yj with sua. What to see if it would be a worthwhile investment or just save the money for the eventual 1 ton swap.
For me it made a huge difference in breaking power alone not to mention you end up with a crossover steering but if you're planning on using let's say 37-in or bigger tires on your Jeep then I would go with larger axles like you mentioned.
I’m in the middle of this swap on my 89 xj, i’ve put in the spacers on the knuckle but for some reason my rotors seem to fit almost perfectly without the spacers on the caliper bracket. Any advice?
Thanks for the video Martin. U do some good work and in depth instructional info. Will subscribe and look forward to more. Thanks again for your time to learn us.
Hey Martin about to do this with your video as a guide love your channel btw you have helped me learn alot I'm young and just started my first build but do you use a wj knuckle or a xj knuckle to weld the spacer to
The steering Box is a 4 bolt that came out of a 78 Cadillac limousine. Here is the video that I did on the steering Box and reinforcing the frame. Thank you for watching. th-cam.com/video/POP9p8c7-FU/w-d-xo.html
What I did is used one of the original front rotors flipped it over and placed it against the WJ rotor. I believe I also took the XJ rotor and on the center hole there is a ridge I took a grinder and grounded flat so the rotor would lay against the WJ rotor flush. And then Mark the holes on to the WJ rotor. I would suggest when you do drill the holes go one or two sizes larger than needed for the studs. I hope this helps.
nice video Martin, I think I watched the port and polish intake upgrade video you made like 100 times while I was restoring and porting my junkyard intake for my xj. Is there a better choice of drag link and tie rod for less mod work
Matter of fact just over this past weekend I replaced the tire rod from Iron Rock that I have been running for years with the Ruff stuff tie rod with 1 ton Chevy offset tie rod ends and I went over the knuckle. As far as a drag link goes you could either make your own using tie rod ends or heim's joints. But the one thing unique about the Iron Rock drag link it had that bend in it to where I could install the track bar bracket where I wanted to keep the drag link and track bar at the same length and at parallel angles. This eliminating any bump steer. Ruff stuff also has some kits available that would work. Of course welding will be required.
I found your channel and said to myself what a well in depth and informative video. Im currently in the process of doing this swap. I have a 1994 Cherokee axle, will be trussed, I picked up 2002 WJ Knuckles, what is the newest year of XJ hubs and axle shafts can I use? Thanks for this great video, will watch more of them.
Thank you, glad you liked it. You should be able to use all the up to 01 XJ hubs. I have heard that you may not need the spacers that I needed on the brake calipers but, can verify that.
Martin great video, question what did you use for the brake lines, im soon to do this swap i have my xj lifted but used the brake line relocation brackets, i am going to go with longer steel braided lines, which ones did you use and are they just plug and play type deal ?? Thanks so much
What are the measurements for the three steering links? I'm in the process of getting all the parts for this conversion install pretty soon, and would like to know what length to set the linkage's. Thanks!
Hi martin A great review ! However would the work on a 98 ZJ grand cherokee and do you have a rear conversion up your sleave Cheers all good stuff Regards Brian
Nice video Martin, I checked it out a couple of years back but now I'm getting around to this upgrade. Question: can you keep your existing rotors without the larger rotors etc. I just put premium brakes on it just want the crossover steering
no because those knuckles will only accept the dual piston calipers. Believe me you what those bigger rotors, the best brakes I've ever had on any 4x4.
Hello Martin I'm doing this steering upgrade on my 97 Orvis. My question is I bought a complete WJ donor rear I also bought a set of 17" WJ rims. I was wondering if I could use the WJ unit bearings This would save me having to buy the wheel adapter to go from the ZJ bolt pattern to the WJ bolt patteren (on the new rims)and also eliminate having the 1/4" spacer welded in. Double savings!!!! What do you think would this work? I'm actually installing this upgrade on a Dana 30 High Pinion out of a 90's XJ then installing the HP Rear in my 97 ZJ. Thanks
So I did the complete swap, 96 XJ ball joints on top, and 2001 WJ bj on the bottom. one side is very tight as if the upper mount is not going up as high on the BJ shaft so its tight making it hard to turn the knuckle. what am I doing wrong?
Not sure if I'll get you here Martin, but I have a quick question. Do these new calipers use the same banjo bolt from the XJ? I'm slowly accumulating all the parts I need as I'll have to bang this out in a weekend.
that sure would be nice if it was that easy. unfortunately that wouldn't change anything it's all about the access point of the axle compared to the knuckle needs to be the same
14 dislikes ?????? how this guy wrote a book on how to do wj conversion better then anyone out there. PERIOD awesome video
miranda hines some people are just dipshots i reckon,love your work Martin
Hey Miranda, it makes no sense - take care!
best and only detailed video of this upgrade period!
The knuckles are cast steel not cast iron. No need to heat them prior to welding. Food video otherwise.
Xj? Wj maybe??
This show is six years old and still getting comments!!
I'm working through this swap now on my 00 XJ and using Martin's show's on the topic as the go to for information. Thank You!!!
Yep 6 years old and still on the same brake pads and I'm grateful every time I have a panic stop. Got to be one of my top 10 mods to be done doing XJ.
@@martinbuilt I pulled the parts from an '03 so I got the Akebono's for cores, I can't believe they want 35$ ea. for cores. Subed btw👍
@@tonyb2086 thank you Tony
I wish I could give this video more than just one thumbs-up - thanks, you're the best!
No I don't run a shop I just enjoy doing modifications and building stuff.
The wj knuckles will bolt up onto my 01 tj I'm pretty sure
Thank you for the kind words. Yes the whole combination of front, rear and master cylinder gives you some real reassurance that your going to able to stop. I did the ZJ rear disc on my. The only thing I wish I had done was to get the rotors and pads from ATL Auto Sports. I would have gotten slotted an drilled zinc coated with pads for less then I paid at Autozone for standard rotors.
Hey Martin, you've done an amazing job producing this video and I'd just like to let you know that I really enjoyed it. Thanks man!
Thank you. I really appreciate that. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for. I feel 100× more confident going after the WJ knuckle swap now. Thanks dude!
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thank you for watching. 🙂
Good choice welding with stainless. More nickel content also can help with welding cast. Perfect heat up and cool down.
Martinbuilt: thanks for telling about the 1/4” thick spacer very nice choice on the disk.
Thank you, Greg.
I'm doing this to my 93 XJ. One of the upgrades the precious owner didn't do. XJ sits on 37's with a 6inch lift. Just about everything upgraded besides the front.
The XJ didn't run and drive when the last owner had it. The drive line was rubbing making it seem like the transfer case. Overall I've been looking for a decent upgrade to my brakes and this is it. I can't wait to do it.
This is one of the top 10 upgrades for the XJ. I love this mod.
You got to have some talent to pull this off.
Putting 3" on my cherokee soon . Love jeeps .
The video was great I've heard of this conversion before and wanted to do it and now I feel more comfortable doing so , I have the terra flex rear disc kit now that was an improvement in its self and now with this video and the Durango master cylinder video I'm sure I will have some great breaks
I'm not positive but I believe that this swap should work on a ZJ. Maybe one thing that may be a problem would be the anti-lock brakes.
Compare your ZJ part numbers with the XJ. Like upper and lower ball joint. Bearing hub assembly. I would think it is doable.
All the WJ's have a low pinion whitch a big disadvantage. The other difference is the WJ is wider by few inches. That is not a bad thing but it is different than the XJ, ZJ.
I did miss understand. I have done the ZJ conversion on my XJ and one other but never did a video on it. I have a neighbor that wants to do the same conversion and has all the stuff. I'm sure that I'll end up doing the mod for him and at that time I'll do a video on it.
If you want faster,easier steering. Bolt on a steering box from a 96 -03 S-10 pickup. It's the same exact box as an XJ or ZJ,it's just a faster steering ratio. Bolts right on,no modifications necessary. While you're at it,might as well bolt on a steering box stabilizer. That's the main reason XJ & ZJ steering boxes leak from the pitman arm shaft seal. They flex or the bearing gets loose because of the flex then it leaks. Steering box stabilizer really helps.
Thanks for the video. Did you have to clearance the calipers,so the rims didn't sctape?
you are doing a great job Martin on these videos.
I feel welding the spacer is unnecessary if it sandwiched between the hub and the knuckle and it is bolted together
It's for less micro twist. You should totally do it.
Nice video, if some day I decide to do this up-grade I will have to re-visit this. Well done!
Beautiful work. The 35" tires on my XJ are a little tougher to slow down than I'd like and I'd love to do something like this. I'll need to invest a bit more in my shop before though.
I'm thinking a lot of the improvement in steering you felt was probably from your sloppy lower ball joints. I just replaced mine and it made a world of difference in handling.
Shop!! I'm doing this in my driveway like a hard core jeeper should. I'm just jealous you have a shop is all.
Thanks Martin! I'm running Jeep Liberty wheels, I heard I can use the smaller caliper with my set up for now, I will investigate!
The spacer supports the weight of the vehicle. Also, if you use 00-01 or TJ unit bearings you do not need to space the brake caliper out.
00-01 you don't need the spacer?
Arien Mcclure what is it about those 2 years that they don't need the spacer.
I personally won't wast time with 00-01 axles because of the low pinion.
I want to do an hp swap, with all of this on it so that it will be a decently beefy upgrade without having to go away from a d30.
Arien Mcclure I 've got a hard time believing that the 00-01 bearing hubs don't need the spacer. The only thing that I can see different between the 97-99 hub and the 00-01 is the later has longer wheel studs.
Most people that are saying you don't need the spacer are getting this info from a forum. Forums are great places to get the info but not always correct. As I said in the video about the lower ball joint needs to be replaced with ones from a WJ but, if you read on some forums you'll find people that have used the stock lowers. I can guarantee that is not correct. To those people that are saying that the 00-01 need no spacer are you speaking form experience or something you read.
I didnt mean that you dont need the spacer. I meant to ask do you really need the spacer? thanks for the great video.
Ok jgc lower balljoint, and weld or dont weld on the spacer.
Seems like a direct fit.
Cool.
Just start with a WJ!
Great video.
I have also polished the 30 tird knowing that down the road I will upgrade to bigger axles.
Thank you, Jim. I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
hi martin thanks for the fast response i should have said i want to do this to a 96 zj thanks
Yes you would need the spacers. WJ unit bearings are the same other then they are heaver duty but not worth the effort with having to redrill to a 4.5x5 pattern. Unless you wanted the 5x5 pattern. There is a web site out there that claims that the WJ bearings will work without the spacer, NOT true because I have tried. I would stick with the XJ unit bearings.
martinbuilt please can you send me a link to where I can get that same exact dual piston calipers. By the way your video is very helpful and easy for me to follow thanks a lot.
@@1badhoekaren903 FRONT [ Akebono Model ] Premium Grade OE Semi-Loaded Caliper Assembly Pair Set amzn.to/2W7Iziq
Hi martin its Brian again
How about a review of all the mods you have completed to date on your XJ and those which you propose in the future
The future looks good !
Cheers Brian
if you use the later model unit bearings (basically from a low pinion 30) you dont need the caliper bracket spacers.
why is that
@@nickjames6241 cause they are the same I think as like the 06 TJ rubicon model hubs in the way of being slightly different in build specs don't know why that is but it just is. Also if you use the Rubicon ones they have longer lugs to them just in case you are gunna run spacers or something to make 15" wheels work note you can run 15" wheels if they are the right offset and are thinner steelie wheels without grinding the top of the caliper. I don't recommend spacers personally you are not putting proper load on the hub at that point and you will probably get pre mature ware out of said hubs if you run any spacers that's how I see it and understand it all to be.
Addition to my previous comment - extremely good tutorial and you should definitely look for sponsors because with a good attitude and a face better than Babe Ruth and a good explanation of things as well as how to do it properly is exactly what those guys on shows like trucks and Car Fix are doing so you might as well try and get some free shit out of it at the very least! Great job. And if you are into health supplements/ staying young and stuff like that respond to my comment and I'll send you some stuff
Thank you for the kind words I really appreciate that!
Take care and stay safe.
Great video Martin. I'm currently running the IRO OTK kit on my ZJ, about to try a custom Y link setup from Ruff Stuff, may try this next if the new setup doesn't give me the performance I'm looking for.
Thank you for your comments. this is one of my favorite mods especially when it comes time to stepping on the brakes hard. I know with these 3's it will stop.
Thanks for putting the torque specs. How come you didnt show where you torqued it up
On my 02 Dakota has 03-04 steering knuckles and brakes on it as the 03 and 04 has same geometry and the 03 and 04 has the Dual piston caliper larger rotor and the caliper pads don't ride on the steering knuckle it's part of the caliper like it should be on the 03 and fours
I have rotors, calipers and knuckles for my 01 Dakota to do the same.
Great detailed video, best I’ve seen to date. Question will this conversion work on an 05 wrangle rubicon? As you may know it comes with a “dana 44” but from my research it appears these parts come off certain dana30s which cross over to some dana44… in particular TeraFlex makes a double arm knuckle that fits both d30/44 but costs over $500 any advise appreciated. Thanks Rick
Thank you, according to my research that I've just did it looks like this conversion should work on your 05 Wrangler.
Man welding and then the spacer make me nervous. I need a welder still 😫 one day ill try this upgrade tho
once the spacer is welded to the knuckle there's nothing to be nervous about.
Thanks! this is a well done video and looks to be a good easy upgrade. about what was the total cost in parts?
you can get them al at the local junk yard i pulled the entire front axle from a wj fore $126 they price them from rotor to rotor and the one i found had brand new rotors pads and calipers then i should the axle for $80 so its all about luck really
I don't want to be "that guy" internet mechanic, but since this is safety related I thought I'd type something. Rather than add threads to the end of that bar by welding nuts to it, wouldn't it be better and safer to cut the bar and sleeve it to extend it?
thx a lot Martin your conversion is amaizing!!! keep going
What would happen if the spacer isn't welded on? Does it have to be welded on?
Martin, thanks again for all your hard work and attention to detail. I saw a video for Rusty's where they upgrade the steering on a commanche. I'm sure you've seen it. My question is whether you think the Rusty's track bar bracket would work with this setup? The Rusty's bracket sits atop the axle. I suppose it changes the length/angle of the track bar, but it looks close. Also, the steering links themselves look pretty easy to fabricate, no? Thanks again, well done.
I had not seen it until now. looks very nice. I like their frame side track bar mount. I don't know why theirs requires 17" wheels.
Why even weld the spacer? It can't move once bolted in.
this is a great, well explained video. i just have one question i was kind of confused about. which knuckle did you use? because in the video you said you used the cherokee (xj) knuckle but a caption box said you'd need both grand cherokee (wj) knuckles
Conner,
in the video I was just using the XJ knuckle as an example how the ball joints fit but yes you need both WJ knuckles.
I am about to start a makeover on the front end of my 96 ZJ. Unlike the video I want to get all new Bearing hubs with a 5x5 lug pattern for the 17" wheels i have. No lug adapters or wheel spacers desired. That leads me to WJ hubs which come with a 5x5 lug setup, hence all WJ parts with no re-drilling the rotors for 5x4.5. OK so here's the question. Will there be any fitment issues with the WJ hub going on to the outer axle spline with enough length to nut and cotter this all together on the final step of the knuckle install? Also, if there is some reason that this all WJ setup would need the JKS spacer and the Caliper spacers, let me know and i'll get them and get going. Great video, great advice... thanks for taking the time with this question.
Hi, I went to pull the knuckles and calipers from a WJ today, but didn't bring a big enough hammer, so I'll have to go back. My question is, what about the ABS stuff? I don't have ABS on my '96. There is a cog wheel on the bearing unit for ABS. Do I just discard all of it?
Hi Martin, I hve been recently (w/ball joints) people are not using xj uppers & wj lowers. What I've been seeing/reading (forums) is JK ball joints. Can U confirm this? Is this false. I ask because there beefy-er. Thank U, jasonC
i enjoyed this, ive been researching this for some time now. thanks for the video, also nice radius arm setup, im running tnt's kit and bilsteins too :D
Thanks Ruben
nice , but i will ask you the same question I have been asking every one why you need the knuckle flange spacer
because without it the axle shaft will not be in the middle of the knuckle and as you turn left and right the axle shaft will move in and out of the axle tube that is not a good thing
@@martinbuilt ok my friend but that wheel bering only have 1 position and there is no way posible that will be out of center but is ok , thanks
@@kenskens69 I'm not talking up and down center, I mean left to right as if you were standing in front of the Jeep
Does that hub spacer need to be welded or could I get by without welding?
That’s great and all but how much better is that setup over factory? And how much do you have into it vs putting that money in a Dana 44 or bigger
Out of all the mods I've ever done to my XJ this is got to be on the top five on my list.. the breaking alone that I've achieved with these rotors and calipers is well worth it. Before I couldn't even come close to locking up any of the tires, now with the combination of the ZJ disc brakes in the rear and the Durango master cylinder I can easily lock up all four and I'm running 35 in tires. I believe I spent around $400 and that was mine most of the stuff new. I could have done it for one third of the cost if I would have used all junkyard parts.
Hello, first I want to thank you for this great video. I have a doubt. Is it possible to make this change and keep the original wheels with 2.5" spacers? (This is how I currently have it. And 31 x 10.5 tires)
Yes you can do the WJ conversion and keep your spacers or offset wheels.
@@martinbuilt
thanks for your answer. I had that doubt because some people have told me that I had to change my 15 rims for 16 rims as a minimum. I'll get to work on this change then. Thank you so much.
I'm confused.
In the beginning didn't he say you have to use the factory XJ upper and lower ball joint because the grand Cherokee ball joint was too big?? And then join the video he said you Have to use the grand Cherokee ball joint for the lower??
You need to use the grand Cherokee lower balljoints K3185
Thank you for watching 👀
Great video! I have a 97 TJ with 04 Rubicon 44s and the WJ conversion. Running 17" Walker Evans Beadlocks with 35" Pro Comps (110 lbs total per corner). It's my DD. No steering stabilizer, don't need it. And it stops better than a stock TJ. Where did you get the brand new Akebono calipers? My right caliper froze up and I had to put on a reman. Would like to replace both with new calipers.
Can you just sandwich the spacer between the hub assembly and knuckle instead of welding it to the knuckle
You can but I don't recommend it. Because the bearing hub assembly sets into the knuckle but with the spacer it does not and you're putting the entire load on the three bolts that hold the bearing hub assembly in
Cant wait to do this upgrade. Ball park for cost in parts??
Well I bought new rotors, pads and calipers which no doubt up surprise but I was able to do it all for around 500. If you went with used calipers, rotors I think you could probably get it down to around 200
I'll look for the receipt and post it.
great vid, is is necessary to weld in the spacers? wouldn't the hub bolts hold it in place? thanks for any info.
here is a video where I explain more th-cam.com/video/i84AX6upyK8/w-d-xo.html
very good i was worried for a tad about crossover im running my dana30 on my s10 sas for now since my cherokee got into a rear end colision using what i have for now
would it be possible to run that iron rock kit with out modification on the bottom knuckle and not utilize the top knuckle for the drag link? i know its not ideal like the cross over these knuckles alow for, but i would think that would avoid a lot of hassle relocating the track bar and keep the geometry the same.
you must live where there is no salt or a lot of rain. my 95 xj did not come off that easy especially the hub. what about the back you can convert it from drum to rotor from a wj.
Yes I live in Southern Nevada it is very dry here. I did convert the rear axle as well using the ZJ disc brakes, you can also use the ones from a Jeep Liberty.
Why is the spacer necessary? I've never seen them referenced in any other videos. But I have to say myself, welding the spacer seems unneeded with the assembly being bolted together.
May I get this a lot.
For one why would JKS make the spacer if it wasn't necessary.
It is required to correct geometry for the axle and center the joint. As you turn the steering wheel the axle would move in-and-out of the differential if you did not have the spacer.
Now the spacer that I put on the brake caliper brackets that may or may not be needed depending on what year bearing hub assembly you are using.
@@martinbuilt Just asking because I had never seen any reference to it before. Now looking at the JKS site they say it's to align the axle shaft & "Brake Caliper".
@@udx-483muddbucket5 yep that it
Amazing. Nice upgrade, you are awesome.
Much appreciated! Great tutorial.
wow vary good video am new to the jeep thing got a xj yesterday am in love don't tell the wife XD thanks for the video !!!!!
is the spacer completely necessary that you welded on the knuckle? i haven't heard mention of it in this conversion till this video. Also can i use my origional rotors on this upgrade?
Yes the spacer is totally necessary without it as you turn your steering wheel the axle shaft will move in-and-out of the axle tube. The spacer recorrects the alignment of the axle shaft and prevents the axle shaft from moving in-and-out of the tube.
I know this is an older video, but could you not run the draglink under instead of on top to match the stock angle of the trackbar?
yeah you can do that as long as there is no wheel interferes
If you did not put the spacer behind the wheel bearing and did not put spacer behind caliper bracket will there be an issue. What issue would that be
The axle would not be centered on the axes and the axle would pull in and out as you turn the steering wheel.
Heard you should use nickel 99 welding rods and a stick welder for welding steel to iron.
Can anyone confirm this?
I'm about to tackle this job in the next month or so.
I want to do this, but I dont want to have to relocate my track bar. I just put on a new RE track bar and bracket. I also have a 15" rim with a 4.5" backspace....
Did you find that the ZJ rear break swap help stopping? or just stability? I've heard different things on them.
Thanks!
Luke
You are not running dust shield?
Ok sounds good I'd like to see it if u do the mod for him and again thanks again for the great videos
great vid! i hoping to get a ZJ soon with a rustys lift ad the same brake mod you did. Do you have any step by step instructions on any forums you might suggest? ( besides your detailed vid of course)
I have the same Iron Rock tie rod and drag link kit as you. What bolts did you use to go from single point bracket to double on the passenger side? And were yours too short to connect properly?
Hi Martin,
Can you please explain why you need "one of these babies" (the spacer)?
Thanks
Paul Sheer looks like the Grand Cherokee knuckle is shallower than the xj part, so the driveshaft would be too long, but you can't shorten the driveshaft because the universal joint has to be in the same place.
How much of a difference is the knuckles? My platform is a 93 yj with sua. What to see if it would be a worthwhile investment or just save the money for the eventual 1 ton swap.
For me it made a huge difference in breaking power alone not to mention you end up with a crossover steering but if you're planning on using let's say 37-in or bigger tires on your Jeep then I would go with larger axles like you mentioned.
@martinbuilt I'm already running 39.5 SS TSL'S..
Good morning. Can this modification be done with the stock steering???
Yes I believe so, I believe you'll need to adjust the tire rod to a longer length.
Thank you for watching.
What are the differences upon installation with a ZJ?? I feel like that XJ front end is quite different but I could be wrong.
some early ones had the split-shaft/vacuum disconnect and the later 2000-01 had low pinion but they will interchange.
Same exact thing for a 98 ZJ 5.9?
I’m in the middle of this swap on my 89 xj, i’ve put in the spacers on the knuckle but for some reason my rotors seem to fit almost perfectly without the spacers on the caliper bracket. Any advice?
Thanks for the video Martin. U do some good work and in depth instructional info. Will subscribe and look forward to more. Thanks again for your time to learn us.
which Steering setup would you recommend to avoid this problem or is it going to be pretty much a custom job? Thanks
Hey Martin about to do this with your video as a guide love your channel btw you have helped me learn alot I'm young and just started my first build but do you use a wj knuckle or a xj knuckle to weld the spacer to
Martinbuilt: is your steering box a stock one, also do you have a brace across to the other side frame rail ?
The steering Box is a 4 bolt that came out of a 78 Cadillac limousine.
Here is the video that I did on the steering Box and reinforcing the frame.
Thank you for watching.
th-cam.com/video/POP9p8c7-FU/w-d-xo.html
Can you explain the drilling process on the rotors I'm so confused!?..
What I did is used one of the original front rotors flipped it over and placed it against the WJ rotor. I believe I also took the XJ rotor and on the center hole there is a ridge I took a grinder and grounded flat so the rotor would lay against the WJ rotor flush. And then Mark the holes on to the WJ rotor. I would suggest when you do drill the holes go one or two sizes larger than needed for the studs. I hope this helps.
nice video Martin, I think I watched the port and polish intake upgrade video you made like 100 times while I was restoring and porting my junkyard intake for my xj. Is there a better choice of drag link and tie rod for less mod work
Matter of fact just over this past weekend I replaced the tire rod from Iron Rock that I have been running for years with the Ruff stuff tie rod with 1 ton Chevy offset tie rod ends and I went over the knuckle. As far as a drag link goes you could either make your own using tie rod ends or heim's joints. But the one thing unique about the Iron Rock drag link it had that bend in it to where I could install the track bar bracket where I wanted to keep the drag link and track bar at the same length and at parallel angles. This eliminating any bump steer. Ruff stuff also has some kits available that would work. Of course welding will be required.
Do you know what the difference is between the dana 30's on xj/zj's to the wj one's? Kinda seems easier to swap axles and just weld on the brackets
I found your channel and said to myself what a well in depth and informative video. Im currently in the process of doing this swap. I have a 1994 Cherokee axle, will be trussed, I picked up 2002 WJ Knuckles, what is the newest year of XJ hubs and axle shafts can I use? Thanks for this great video, will watch more of them.
Thank you, glad you liked it. You should be able to use all the up to 01 XJ hubs. I have heard that you may not need the spacers that I needed on the brake calipers but, can verify that.
@@martinbuilt Appreciate the speedy feedback. Thanks
I love this upgrade. Not inclined to do something like this myself though, do you run a shop?
Martin great video, question what did you use for the brake lines, im soon to do this swap i have my xj lifted but used the brake line relocation brackets, i am going to go with longer steel braided lines, which ones did you use and are they just plug and play type deal ?? Thanks so much
+jose licciardello These brake lines came with the RC long arm lift kit.
What are the measurements for the three steering links? I'm in the process of getting all the parts for this conversion install pretty soon, and would like to know what length to set the linkage's.
Thanks!
Hi martin
A great review ! However would the work on a 98 ZJ grand cherokee and do you have a rear conversion up your sleave
Cheers all good stuff
Regards Brian
Yes this would work on a ZJ. I don't have a rear conversion as of yet.
Nice video Martin, I checked it out a couple of years back but now I'm getting around to this upgrade. Question: can you keep your existing rotors without the larger rotors etc. I just put premium brakes on it just want the crossover steering
no because those knuckles will only accept the dual piston calipers. Believe me you what those bigger rotors, the best brakes I've ever had on any 4x4.
@@martinbuilt thanks for the reply.
Hello Martin
I'm doing this steering upgrade on my 97 Orvis. My question is I bought a complete WJ donor rear I also bought a set of 17" WJ rims. I was wondering if I could use the WJ unit bearings This would save me having to buy the wheel adapter to go from the ZJ bolt pattern to the WJ bolt patteren (on the new rims)and also eliminate having the 1/4" spacer welded in. Double savings!!!! What do you think would this work? I'm actually installing this upgrade on a Dana 30 High Pinion out of a 90's XJ then installing the HP Rear in my 97 ZJ.
Thanks
I'm sry I think u miss understood me I was wondering if you done a video on ur rear brake conversion sry for not being clear
Hi martin. Is that setup works with stock xj steering or with zj 5.9 steering upgrade??
It may you will need to turn the tie rods outward and I don't know if there is a safe amount of threads left once the toe-in is adjusted
So I did the complete swap, 96 XJ ball joints on top, and 2001 WJ bj on the bottom. one side is very tight as if the upper mount is not going up as high on the BJ shaft so its tight making it hard to turn the knuckle. what am I doing wrong?
Doesn't make any sense way it would do that.
Not sure if I'll get you here Martin, but I have a quick question. Do these new calipers use the same banjo bolt from the XJ? I'm slowly accumulating all the parts I need as I'll have to bang this out in a weekend.
Used the same brake lines that I had on the XJ
@@martinbuilt awesome Martin, thank you.
Martin, would it be better and faster if I just cut off 1 quarter inch off the axel shaft? thanks!
that sure would be nice if it was that easy. unfortunately that wouldn't change anything it's all about the access point of the axle compared to the knuckle needs to be the same
Awesome video!!!!!
Thanks Rick
Just wondering if you could keep the 5 by 5 bolt pattern
Then you would have to drill the bearing hubs to 5 on 5