Bro love your videos, I just finished a 3 link in the front. It all takes time. Don't get frustrated. Cutting , plasma, ect. All leaves junk. Sweep it up and carry on.
the body/axle certainly ill not fall over or damage anything without the track bar in place.. they can move around a little bit usually it stays within 1/2" if theres nothing pulling it further out of square but even if you pulled them in opposite directions the controls arms would stop it from going more than a few inches to either side, and keep in mind its only centered at ride height when the suspension is compressed or stretched down itll let the axle droop side to side, so the new one should be set up with jack stands under the axle not under the frame so the weight is on the suspension, or atleast make your measurements while the weight is on the suspension
@14:35 I am planning on doing the same build on my 77 f250 axle under my TJ... just waiting to buy a welder. I know you are using the Titanium series but not sure if it is the 170 or the 200. I am about to buy the 170 and hope it is enough to do the job.
Do you have problems with alignments? With the drag link on top of the tie rod, I feel like you wouldn’t be able to get a perfect alignment seeing how it’s a full turn or nothing. Or is it so small it doesn’t really make a difference.
What alignment...?🤣 I set the toe before I welded it on, so it should be good. I could unbolt one side and turn the heims one at a time for small adjustments if needed.
I have almost that same setup in my TJ and works very well. My only concern now is the heim angle at the pitman. It is not in the middle but somewhat down pointing to the tie rod. So you have full movement in the drag link at the lower heim but is limited at the pitman. That goes to having about 4 to 5" more down travel at the left than the right. Looking for a solution I thought about "twisting" the pitman arm. Found a "known brand" expensive one and also found an angled johnny joint but has opinions against it for steering use. What you think?
I have thought about getting the twisted pitman arm but just haven’t pulled the trigger because of the price. With the high misalignment spacer at the pitman arm I haven’t had any problems with it bottoming out. I’ve had it this way for 3 years, did king of the hammers, ect. Never had an issue at the pitman arm side. Besides the twisted pitman arm, I have not been able to come up with a good solution.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I'm in the same boat. I have widely used mine for years. When you look at photos articulating you can't see a problem. But when dropping down the axle at the shop it is hanging from that upper heim. I found someone that assures the factory pitman can be safely twisted by heating it in certain way then cool it slowly in sand. Have to find more on this.
one more build question. I am looking at your tie rod @17:20 and see you used strait tie rod ends vs offset ones like barnes also sells. Would offset tie rod ends be a bad thing for the f150/250 axle builds? But then again if straight works just run with it right hahaha. But glad to see this, I was wondering if I would need to go off set or not with a after marker diff cover.
The offset would definitely work, they didn’t have them when I built my steering. It is a very tight clearance with the diff cover for sure. And with a little bend from some rocks...it touches the cover.
Great video, I know this is a older video but how come you didn’t decide to go with a high steer knuckle option? Liek the tera flex it is more $$$ but I figure it would be easier then welding on the drag link to the tie rod. Plus for alignments it would be easier. Just wondering going to build my own steering for my tj!
Didn’t see a flex test (up and down) for interferences? Is this why you added the bump stops? How about length, are the draglink and panard bar the same length? Or is the different radius not a concern?
I was doing about 10 things at one time while doing this video, so there was extensive “flex” tests done throughout the process, with no springs so it Would go through its movements easily. I already had bump stops in the same location I just changed up how it was mounted. And it is impossible to get the track bar and drag link the same length in this configuration, so as the axle drops it does pull the axle slightly to the drivers side because of this, but I don’t notice it while driving or have any clearance issues.
Ohh yeah bro, one other thing. Watching your videos pointed me to barnes 4 wheel drive, but they never respect your code. I've purchased a probably 1,500 bucks and tried every time. I started ordering from Genright because of that
Are you using 3/4” heim joints for the track bar as well? Does Barnes sell a heim kit that I can get with everything as I am in the process of building my own track bar as well.
I was using 3/4” heims, they are plenty strong, but I now have 7/8” heims. I bought a bunch and had them already. Yes Barnes sells them in kits, so just make sure you get one left hand and one right hand, figure out how long of tube you need and mounting brackets if you need them.
This is the first welder I have ever owned. I personally wouldn’t spend the extra $ on the Vulcan. I haven’t used the tig or stick at all so I cannot give any feedback on that. But the mig is awesome.
Bro love your videos, I just finished a 3 link in the front. It all takes time. Don't get frustrated. Cutting , plasma, ect. All leaves junk. Sweep it up and carry on.
Great video! I'd like to see a video on moving your sway bar brackets to do an over the top steering setup.
Thanks, they are the synergy high steer sway bar mounts. I bought from poly performance. I actually have never had a sway bar on this Jeep.
Little by little! Interesting you decided to go back to your old setup for the steering. Good thing you noticed the issues while in the garage. 👍👊
Yea, there was many hours moving the axle up and down with no springs making sure everything was👌🏻 in doing that I had to made some changes.
Looks great man! Should hold up well now time to test it
Looks great man, can’t wait to get myself a welder
Thanks, definitely get one. It opens a new world of things you can do.
Muddy Beards 4X4 might go your route with welder. For the price, seems like it’s been doing a good job
Yes it has, gone through 14lb of wire and 3 bottles of gas and still works great.
I wish I had a plasma cutter. Seems much easier than a grinder
Some things for sure. But you will always need the grinder, lol.
the body/axle certainly ill not fall over or damage anything without the track bar in place.. they can move around a little bit usually it stays within 1/2" if theres nothing pulling it further out of square but even if you pulled them in opposite directions the controls arms would stop it from going more than a few inches to either side, and keep in mind its only centered at ride height when the suspension is compressed or stretched down itll let the axle droop side to side, so the new one should be set up with jack stands under the axle not under the frame so the weight is on the suspension, or atleast make your measurements while the weight is on the suspension
@14:35 I am planning on doing the same build on my 77 f250 axle under my TJ... just waiting to buy a welder. I know you are using the Titanium series but not sure if it is the 170 or the 200. I am about to buy the 170 and hope it is enough to do the job.
Mine is the 200, I can’t say for sure, but the 170 plugged into 220 should do the trick.
Do you have problems with alignments? With the drag link on top of the tie rod, I feel like you wouldn’t be able to get a perfect alignment seeing how it’s a full turn or nothing. Or is it so small it doesn’t really make a difference.
What alignment...?🤣 I set the toe before I welded it on, so it should be good. I could unbolt one side and turn the heims one at a time for small adjustments if needed.
Hey Kelly, I know this is an older video, but what pitman arm is that? I need a 44 pitman arm with some drop, but not like 4" drop. Thanks
I don’t remember off the top of my head but I built it in this video.
th-cam.com/video/AAJ9ndl-Q7Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7rVa13ahACyPdMxw
12:38 what hook is that, digging the style!
Harbor freight Apex 12k winch.
I have almost that same setup in my TJ and works very well. My only concern now is the heim angle at the pitman. It is not in the middle but somewhat down pointing to the tie rod. So you have full movement in the drag link at the lower heim but is limited at the pitman. That goes to having about 4 to 5" more down travel at the left than the right.
Looking for a solution I thought about "twisting" the pitman arm. Found a "known brand" expensive one and also found an angled johnny joint but has opinions against it for steering use.
What you think?
I have thought about getting the twisted pitman arm but just haven’t pulled the trigger because of the price. With the high misalignment spacer at the pitman arm I haven’t had any problems with it bottoming out. I’ve had it this way for 3 years, did king of the hammers, ect. Never had an issue at the pitman arm side. Besides the twisted pitman arm, I have not been able to come up with a good solution.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I'm in the same boat. I have widely used mine for years. When you look at photos articulating you can't see a problem. But when dropping down the axle at the shop it is hanging from that upper heim.
I found someone that assures the factory pitman can be safely twisted by heating it in certain way then cool it slowly in sand. Have to find more on this.
Could you use a string?
one more build question. I am looking at your tie rod @17:20 and see you used strait tie rod ends vs offset ones like barnes also sells. Would offset tie rod ends be a bad thing for the f150/250 axle builds? But then again if straight works just run with it right hahaha. But glad to see this, I was wondering if I would need to go off set or not with a after marker diff cover.
The offset would definitely work, they didn’t have them when I built my steering. It is a very tight clearance with the diff cover for sure. And with a little bend from some rocks...it touches the cover.
Can you tell me what size & where you got the tubing for the track bar?
I believe it is 1.5” 1/4” wall dom. Get it at your local metal yard.
I appreciate it brother. Wish I had your skills. Not close to SC are you? Lol
Haha, nope.
Great video, I know this is a older video but how come you didn’t decide to go with a high steer knuckle option? Liek the tera flex it is more $$$ but I figure it would be easier then welding on the drag link to the tie rod. Plus for alignments it would be easier. Just wondering going to build my own steering for my tj!
Thanks, and yes cost is the issue. I will probably be getting the Reid racing knuckles at some point but the cost adds up.
Hey, does your track bar hit your diff? It is that why you have those bump stops?
Didn’t see a flex test (up and down) for interferences? Is this why you added the bump stops?
How about length, are the draglink and panard bar the same length? Or is the different radius not a concern?
I was doing about 10 things at one time while doing this video, so there was extensive “flex” tests done throughout the process, with no springs so it Would go through its movements easily. I already had bump stops in the same location I just changed up how it was mounted. And it is impossible to get the track bar and drag link the same length in this configuration, so as the axle drops it does pull the axle slightly to the drivers side because of this, but I don’t notice it while driving or have any clearance issues.
Actually I just measured and the bars are the same length, just mounted offset so the track bar looks shorter.
Ohh yeah bro, one other thing. Watching your videos pointed me to barnes 4 wheel drive, but they never respect your code. I've purchased a probably 1,500 bucks and tried every time. I started ordering from Genright because of that
Code is “muddybeards” just tried it and it works.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I called spoke with Collin and another guy
It doesn't work
My Jeep build is legit
You guys have great videos, I'd love to send you pictures of my build.
How do you like the hydro assist with this jeep and the stock pump
Works fine. I do have a PSC stock Tj replacement pump so technically not a factory pump.
3/4 heims strong enough? they seemed small on the end of that beefy tube
Yes, I’ve had good luck with them. Plenty strong.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 are they the 7/8 shank or the 3/4 shank?
Are you using 3/4” heim joints for the track bar as well? Does Barnes sell a heim kit that I can get with everything as I am in the process of building my own track bar as well.
I was using 3/4” heims, they are plenty strong, but I now have 7/8” heims. I bought a bunch and had them already. Yes Barnes sells them in kits, so just make sure you get one left hand and one right hand, figure out how long of tube you need and mounting brackets if you need them.
Muddy Beards 4X4 perfect I appreciate the help man!
Is your track bar shorter then your steering?
I just measured and the links are the same length
So what kind of welder are you using?
It is the harbor freight Titanium unlimited 200, it is a great welder.
Thank you.
What welder are you using ?
It’s the harbor freight Titanium unlimited 200. Had it almost a year, it has been a great welder.
Muddy Beards 4X4 did you upgrade? I’m thinking of going with the Vulcan but if the titanium is just as good I’d rather save some money
This is the first welder I have ever owned. I personally wouldn’t spend the extra $ on the Vulcan. I haven’t used the tig or stick at all so I cannot give any feedback on that. But the mig is awesome.
Muddy Beards 4X4 hell yea thx man
Who is this impostor? This dude must have stolen the jeep and the channel from the guy with the beard! Great Video as always!
🤣😂
😎👍
Bro are you sponsored by HF? 🤣