Suggestion: Turn the chip/dip tubs 90° so they're not stretched out so far away from your hand. Then swap the dip and chips around so the lighter of the two is further out. This will place all the weight closer to the pivot make it so the leverage won't cause so much rubbing between the plates. Also, you could rout recesses in the bottom of the snack caddy instead and get rid of the top and end plate entirely. Then you would make the whole contraption lighter AND possibly eliminate the need for a counterweight on the bottom.
On top of all of that, instead of the Popsicle stick, a waxed plastic piece would work wonders as a failsafe I'm pretty sure. Not too sure why they thought of the 3d printed washer for less friction but still put a wood piece on the bottom.
And make the top plate thinner, a 1/4" rather than the 1/2" they ended up with. In the original, it looks like he used 3/8" plywood for everything, which would be light and stiff.
One of my favorite things about your channel is that you don’t edit out ALL of the missteps and mistakes. I’m a software engineer and a hobbyist maker myself and it’s so validating to see someone else make mistakes. We all do. However some people prefer to edit those out to appear more perfect than they actually are. Failure is ALWAYS and option.
He's actually quite patient when he makes a mistake, or at least they've edited out the bit where he kicks the shit out of some trash cans haha it happens!
The "play" in the bearing blocks isn't a error. Its so you can compensate for error. Normally you would always use two of these bearing blocks to mount a shaft. next time just use one thrust bearing and sandwich it between two plates. You also dont need two bearings, one bearing in one piece and just a fixed bolt in the other would have worked fine.
So off the back of 30+ years of engineering, I had all kinds of useful and informative suggestions to make the thing work better, but basically now I just want chips and dip, so thanks...
As others mentioned a thrust bearing would help the swivel action a bunch. Also I wonder if you could eliminate the upper portion of the chip and salsa holder. Add a gusset to support the weight of the chips and salsa on the lower board. The weight of the chips and salsa would act as the counter weight.
Dude! You got me in strife with the Missus. I was supposed to be working on the back deck today, but I got stuck watching your movies... Maybe build a comfortable Dog Box. I could definitely use that! Love your movies, mate. I love the way you figure as you go, it's how I've done some of my best work.
So fun! About three quarters way through, I wondered about centering the beer, and having the snack trays hang down lower than the beer. I’ll sleep on that! Awesome work, great vid, thanks to designer and your crew!
Line the sides that are rubbing with thin sheets of teflon (you can get those anywhere they sell Heat Transfer Vinyl supplies). That thing will glide like nobody's business.
Angle the wood underneath the bearing on either side away from each other so only the bearing area is touching. That would illuminate the rubbing and give room for the play.
You only need the bearing on one side. The bolt on the handle side can be fixed rigid coming out like a stud. Then both of the pillow bearings fitted to the chip side. One either side of the wood. That will give more strength to the pivoting mechanism. If you look at the original video there is no contact between the two pieces other than the bolt. No contact, no friction. You also shouldn't have used the thick wood on the unsupported end as that's just unnecessary ballast, a thin dowel would have be adequate.
You probably could make the small one work with one addition. Cut a slot 2" below the pivot point, where you can mount a bearing horizontally. The bearing just needs to protrude maybe an 1/8". Just enough so when the loaded snack tray flexes the unit, it hits the bearing instead of the other piece of wood. Now it can roll along the outside of the bearing instead of binding.
One thing that might help: put opposing strong magnets in the two parts - the magnetic field might be strong enough to force them apart and eliminate the friction introduced by the weight of the containers.
Not sure if anyone pointed this out yet but in the original build you can see the top is canted off from the bottom when the holder sits on a table, but when he lifts it the holder has a pretty even gap. Seems like he put the hole at an angle or has the dip holder slightly higher than the beer holder to create an artificial gap and to remove the pinching issue you are having. Or maybe just a larger gap than one would expect.
A set of thrust bearings and washers between the pieces, as well as on the bolt head and nut would have made this a lot easier I think. Love the vids. Keep it up!
It looks like the pivot point was a little too high in the first one, so when you added the weight(the chips & dip) it just sagged, too much friction so it wouldn't turn freely how it did empty
The shaft wobbling is a feature not a bug. Most mounted bearings are designed to compensate for shaft misalignment so they have some flex built in to the mount.
I like that the response to having spent so much time and experienced so much trouble with the original design was to just overdesign it even further and make a new, even bulkier version from scratch.
I love that you have a laser but not some of the more common woodworking machines. Made me giggle when you went from “I don’t have anything to turn dowels” to “we have a laser” 8:01
You could have put a hole saw in the drill press that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the can. Since you are routing out the edge, this would allow you to sneak up on the snug fit for the can.
I love everything you do! At first look I was ready to say, "What a silly project!" Then I watched the process and I have renewed respect. Though I am not a wood-worker, I'm a fiber artist who works from sheep to completed project, so I completely appreciate the incredible amount of behind the scenes planning and work that goes in to what seems like the simplest of things! PS- Hubby totally connected with the comment, "My hand wouldn't fit in here." I completely appreciate you saying, "This is so much harder than I thought!" Hah! to you, Sara, kids, your help-mates, and the guys behind the scenes!
Man. When I watch your channel all I can think sometimes is “MAN it must be nice to have all this raw material just ready to go for whatever you need to do” 😂 Meanwhile I’m over here humming and hawing over whether I can afford a sheet of plywood for a dog house base, much less how to find the time to empty the back of the pickup in order to haul it back home lol
The square carbide tool is for roughing. Basically turning the square wood round/knocking the corners off. The round carbide makes curves (beads and coves) easier and will leave you a better--albeit not great--finish cut. At the end of the day all carbides work by scraping the wood and leads to more tear-out, especially on end grain. Gouges and skews leave a better finish because they can slice or peel the wood grain without tearing.
What you could try is the same set up with the bolt, but and spacer. But maybe get a standard cased ball bearing but counter sink it slightly into the wood?
A couple of thoughts, you probably only needed 1 bearing to allow the parts to turn, which would reduce the play since the side without a bearing would be able to be locked to stay at 90 degrees. Second is if you put something like a low friction furniture glide below the axle. That would help the wood parts not bind up if the axle gets out of alignment. Last thing is the thing mentioned already, by switching the salsa and chips locations.
might not be the original design, but you could rout a slot at the bottom of the beer part, bore a hole from the bottom and screw in another bearing. I mean orthogonal to the first one, so the chips part rides on a bearing. if that doesn't cancel out the friction problem idk what will xD
Love these videos. It's like the fella next door that has more money than he knows what to do with so starts a woodshop with amazing tools but doesn't quite know how to use everything but has no qualms about trying to make any/everything he sees. Not hating, actually envious and looking forward to even more videos! cheers
for starters put the dip on the inside as its the heavy help reliving some strain of the baring preventing the bottom from rubing and the first one might have worked
If you added two inlaid, Teflon rings opposite each other, it may alleviate the rub when the weight is added. The food going on top is countering the weight on the bottom and compounding the pinch. Teflon rings would be easy to manage and slow to wear out.
Think a wider bearing, like for a lazy susan, may have worked better, and of course making it lighter would solve a bunch of issues. That thick heavy wood was the death nail of this project.
Maybe some kind of Teflon coating on the surfaces that have to move might help. Also the bearing being at the top means that the weight of the dip pushed the bottom edges against each other. So perhaps making the gap the same as the width of the bearing and something like Teflon on the surfaces so there's no friction at the bottom.
You can add a Teflon block that is the thickness of your gap on the chip side of the joint. It will be hidden when you do the handle twist and maintain the joint width.
Omg your awesome increasing the surface area of the bearing will balance the weight distribution of the other side decreasing the drag. Meaning us a bigger bearing
A bearing down at the bottom sunk into the wood but sticking out just enough to stop the joint from flexing and making it rub against the bottom of the two peaces would help keep slop off the joint as well as smoothen the motion
I know an old video but adding something like wax to the inside should help reduce the friction being caused by the pinching and allow the pieces to slide better.
Putting a small horizontal wheel in between both moving parts would be weight bearing and take the load off the top bearings allowing for a smooth movement with much less friction. 🥳
if you put in a round channel between the parts and a bearing ball in that channel you limit range of motion but reduce friction between the wood parts in case that was the issue
since the first one you made was binding up at the base of the two sides, you might have tried tapering that end maybe an eighth of an inch at the base on each side. tapering from the center to the base so that the base was one eighth of an inch less.
The dip is probably heavier than the chips; and it's the weight 'at a distance' that's causing the bottom of the ... contraption? ... to bind. So if you switched the positions of the dip and chips, so that the dip is closer to the pivot point, that will make a difference. Wether it makes enough of a difference depends on too many factors to calculate, but should be an easy thing to test?
OK, that vacuum trick with the glue was epic. Brilliant! worthy of a beer my friend. As for the pinch point where it's rubbing between the two sections- a piece of UHMW tape, maybe 1" wide across the bottom of each should take care of that. I used to be in sales for and Industrial Mfg co and that tape was made for a lot of automotive applications. But I found a lot of applications in woodworking where you needed to eliminate friction points for drawers, moving parts, etc. UHMW- Ultra High Molecular Weight. Think of what Teflon is for hot pans. UHMW is for friction points. Regardless, you made that more practical! loved the crock pot!
What about counter sinking something that works like a fidget spinner, on the side with the drink holder, so it's reveal is just enough for the bearings to ride against the chip holder side. Then, maybe some type of tension connection to hold it together. Is there something (like a turnbuckle) but smaller, that will allow a stainless steel cord to spin freely inside of it?
Suggestion: Turn the chip/dip tubs 90° so they're not stretched out so far away from your hand. Then swap the dip and chips around so the lighter of the two is further out. This will place all the weight closer to the pivot make it so the leverage won't cause so much rubbing between the plates. Also, you could rout recesses in the bottom of the snack caddy instead and get rid of the top and end plate entirely. Then you would make the whole contraption lighter AND possibly eliminate the need for a counterweight on the bottom.
On top of all of that, instead of the Popsicle stick, a waxed plastic piece would work wonders as a failsafe I'm pretty sure. Not too sure why they thought of the 3d printed washer for less friction but still put a wood piece on the bottom.
And make the top plate thinner, a 1/4" rather than the 1/2" they ended up with. In the original, it looks like he used 3/8" plywood for everything, which would be light and stiff.
He could also cut the sides on an angle so the wouldn't touch each other or have an extra support bearing on the topside.
Empty beer, chips and dip into a horse feed bag and tilt head back!
Was just going to comment this. But you already did.
One of my favorite things about your channel is that you don’t edit out ALL of the missteps and mistakes. I’m a software engineer and a hobbyist maker myself and it’s so validating to see someone else make mistakes. We all do. However some people prefer to edit those out to appear more perfect than they actually are. Failure is ALWAYS and option.
Agreed! I skip all channels that leave those out....
I dropped my bottle once as a baby, only mistake iv ever made 🤣
Yeah but why did Sam leave, boys?
@@ginger_nosoul I once thought I made a mistake, but I was wrong.
He's actually quite patient when he makes a mistake, or at least they've edited out the bit where he kicks the shit out of some trash cans haha it happens!
You should try using a thrust bearing. I think that might eliminate the play.
Screaming this at the screen from the get go. Lol
Also try switching the order of the chips and dip so the weight is closer to the bearing
Glad I’m not the only one
Came here to say the same thing!
Thank you! Was going nuts on this side of the screen.
I think it could help to move the dip in toward the pivot so that there is less downward pressure on the friction joint. Just a thought.
I had the same idea
Me too!!
The "play" in the bearing blocks isn't a error. Its so you can compensate for error. Normally you would always use two of these bearing blocks to mount a shaft. next time just use one thrust bearing and sandwich it between two plates. You also dont need two bearings, one bearing in one piece and just a fixed bolt in the other would have worked fine.
So off the back of 30+ years of engineering, I had all kinds of useful and informative suggestions to make the thing work better, but basically now I just want chips and dip, so thanks...
I really enjoy this kind of content, I really appreciate you leaving in all of the struggle and the redo attempts.
Maybe have the dip container next to to bearing. The extra weight of the dip being so far away is making it bind up
Love your version better. Bringing the bigger and better. Def a piece that would be talked about in the tailgate. 🎉
I really appreciate how positive and supportive you always are of the other video creators you reference.
As others mentioned a thrust bearing would help the swivel action a bunch. Also I wonder if you could eliminate the upper portion of the chip and salsa holder. Add a gusset to support the weight of the chips and salsa on the lower board. The weight of the chips and salsa would act as the counter weight.
Use a thrust bearing in between the two wood structures. That will give you smooth rotation. 👍
Thats what i was thinking the entire video
You do much better that I ever could at turning 🙌🏻
Add the dip first then the chips because the dip is heavy and is counter weighting the Trey 😊
Dude!
You got me in strife with the Missus. I was supposed to be working on the back deck today, but I got stuck watching your movies...
Maybe build a comfortable Dog Box. I could definitely use that!
Love your movies, mate.
I love the way you figure as you go, it's how I've done some of my best work.
The second one is so you, glad you made it John sized in the end, great video!!
So fun! About three quarters way through, I wondered about centering the beer, and having the snack trays hang down lower than the beer. I’ll sleep on that! Awesome work, great vid, thanks to designer and your crew!
Southern Tier brewery! Brewed in my backyard
I loved this video. All the failures and attempts to make a giant contraption. Amazing. And all for an item that is a solution looking for a problem.
I think you need a thrust bearing in between the two sections. 🙂
Line the sides that are rubbing with thin sheets of teflon (you can get those anywhere they sell Heat Transfer Vinyl supplies). That thing will glide like nobody's business.
I appreciate he didn’t quit, but just fully sent a new one at the end.
Really appreciate your videos John! They are fun to watch and instructional for a noob like me!
Angle the wood underneath the bearing on either side away from each other so only the bearing area is touching. That would illuminate the rubbing and give room for the play.
You only need the bearing on one side. The bolt on the handle side can be fixed rigid coming out like a stud. Then both of the pillow bearings fitted to the chip side. One either side of the wood. That will give more strength to the pivoting mechanism. If you look at the original video there is no contact between the two pieces other than the bolt. No contact, no friction. You also shouldn't have used the thick wood on the unsupported end as that's just unnecessary ballast, a thin dowel would have be adequate.
Additionally the pivot point should have been in the center of the board.
absolutely AWESOME!
I noticed the pivot placement is at the top. So, you might want to have it more to the center for less friction on rotation maybe?
Exactly what I was thinking. Center that bearing and it would work better.
You probably could make the small one work with one addition. Cut a slot 2" below the pivot point, where you can mount a bearing horizontally. The bearing just needs to protrude maybe an 1/8". Just enough so when the loaded snack tray flexes the unit, it hits the bearing instead of the other piece of wood. Now it can roll along the outside of the bearing instead of binding.
One thing that might help: put opposing strong magnets in the two parts - the magnetic field might be strong enough to force them apart and eliminate the friction introduced by the weight of the containers.
Do his peanut dispenser next! Love your channel, it's great! Using your knowledge to help build my first river table.
Love it! But what I really want is the digital file of the Ron Swanson image I have been lusting over for YEARS!
The weight of the salsa being on the end was what was making it pinch if you switch the chips and the salsa it may work better
Not sure if anyone pointed this out yet but in the original build you can see the top is canted off from the bottom when the holder sits on a table, but when he lifts it the holder has a pretty even gap. Seems like he put the hole at an angle or has the dip holder slightly higher than the beer holder to create an artificial gap and to remove the pinching issue you are having. Or maybe just a larger gap than one would expect.
A set of thrust bearings and washers between the pieces, as well as on the bolt head and nut would have made this a lot easier I think. Love the vids. Keep it up!
Gotta love the process
It looks like the pivot point was a little too high in the first one, so when you added the weight(the chips & dip) it just sagged, too much friction so it wouldn't turn freely how it did empty
Great video. Seems that the only thing that didn’t give you problem was the wood turning. 😂😂😂
Great start to summer! A happy Memorial Day to all of my fellow veterans. H2P!
The shaft wobbling is a feature not a bug. Most mounted bearings are designed to compensate for shaft misalignment so they have some flex built in to the mount.
I love how serious & in depth he went to make this mobile personal bar 😂 * yoda impersonation* clear are the priorities with this one haha
Exactly a little over one inch 😂. This project is great and you sir are a Jedi on the lathe😉
If you switch the chips and the dip the weight distribution might be better and allow it to rotate on the first handle you made.
Yes. Been lookin for this comment
you could use a set screw to hold the bearing, also nylon washers for low friction!
That was awesome! Love the “malecki” style finisher. Just need arms like the hulkster to carry it round. Still awesome though
I like that the response to having spent so much time and experienced so much trouble with the original design was to just overdesign it even further and make a new, even bulkier version from scratch.
Use thrust bearings will keep the joint tighter and smoother. Also use a small spacer down the bottom between each part to eliminate the flexing
I love that you have a laser but not some of the more common woodworking machines. Made me giggle when you went from “I don’t have anything to turn dowels” to “we have a laser” 8:01
He said "I don't have any dowels so I'm gonna have to turn a handle"
That and I don't have a scroll saw
You could have put a hole saw in the drill press that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the can. Since you are routing out the edge, this would allow you to sneak up on the snug fit for the can.
I love everything you do! At first look I was ready to say, "What a silly project!" Then I watched the process and I have renewed respect. Though I am not a wood-worker, I'm a fiber artist who works from sheep to completed project, so I completely appreciate the incredible amount of behind the scenes planning and work that goes in to what seems like the simplest of things! PS- Hubby totally connected with the comment, "My hand wouldn't fit in here." I completely appreciate you saying, "This is so much harder than I thought!" Hah! to you, Sara, kids, your help-mates, and the guys behind the scenes!
Man. When I watch your channel all I can think sometimes is “MAN it must be nice to have all this raw material just ready to go for whatever you need to do” 😂
Meanwhile I’m over here humming and hawing over whether I can afford a sheet of plywood for a dog house base, much less how to find the time to empty the back of the pickup in order to haul it back home lol
Home Improvement/ Tim the Toolman Taylor level of step up.. More Power! Argargargarg!! 😂😂😂
Great stuff!!
The square carbide tool is for roughing. Basically turning the square wood round/knocking the corners off.
The round carbide makes curves (beads and coves) easier and will leave you a better--albeit not great--finish cut. At the end of the day all carbides work by scraping the wood and leads to more tear-out, especially on end grain. Gouges and skews leave a better finish because they can slice or peel the wood grain without tearing.
The vacuum and glue trick was pretty legit
Love it man.
I believe a thrust bearing in between the two parts would give the pivot and take out the slop.
Appreciate the effort but I loved that you Malecki'd it at the end. 🙌
Very simple solution to this. Use a thrust bearing. It will counter rotate the chip side.
Two weeks between uploads OMG I cried when this came up. Such a good mf video
What you could try is the same set up with the bolt, but and spacer. But maybe get a standard cased ball bearing but counter sink it slightly into the wood?
That was so terrible it was amazing! Legend!
A couple of thoughts, you probably only needed 1 bearing to allow the parts to turn, which would reduce the play since the side without a bearing would be able to be locked to stay at 90 degrees. Second is if you put something like a low friction furniture glide below the axle. That would help the wood parts not bind up if the axle gets out of alignment. Last thing is the thing mentioned already, by switching the salsa and chips locations.
might not be the original design, but you could rout a slot at the bottom of the beer part, bore a hole from the bottom and screw in another bearing. I mean orthogonal to the first one, so the chips part rides on a bearing. if that doesn't cancel out the friction problem idk what will xD
1:05 - someone's getting a C&D letter soon... lol
Love these videos. It's like the fella next door that has more money than he knows what to do with so starts a woodshop with amazing tools but doesn't quite know how to use everything but has no qualms about trying to make any/everything he sees. Not hating, actually envious and looking forward to even more videos! cheers
I freaking love your videos brother. One love!!!
great project
fun project and glorious, over-engineered solution. oh, well done.
Thrust Bearing inbtween the wood attached to the bolt. You need Thrust for smooth Wood.
for starters put the dip on the inside as its the heavy help reliving some strain of the baring preventing the bottom from rubing and the first one might have worked
If you added two inlaid, Teflon rings opposite each other, it may alleviate the rub when the weight is added. The food going on top is countering the weight on the bottom and compounding the pinch. Teflon rings would be easy to manage and slow to wear out.
I wonder if that first one would have less pinch if you swapped the (heavy) salsa and the chips? Fun build for sure.
Think a wider bearing, like for a lazy susan, may have worked better, and of course making it lighter would solve a bunch of issues. That thick heavy wood was the death nail of this project.
Leverage my guy. Friend and foe
Maybe some kind of Teflon coating on the surfaces that have to move might help. Also the bearing being at the top means that the weight of the dip pushed the bottom edges against each other. So perhaps making the gap the same as the width of the bearing and something like Teflon on the surfaces so there's no friction at the bottom.
You can add a Teflon block that is the thickness of your gap on the chip side of the joint. It will be hidden when you do the handle twist and maintain the joint width.
honestly, permanently attach the sides together and it would make for a good portable personal try that helps keep things organized
Omg your awesome increasing the surface area of the bearing will balance the weight distribution of the other side decreasing the drag. Meaning us a bigger bearing
A bearing down at the bottom sunk into the wood but sticking out just enough to stop the joint from flexing and making it rub against the bottom of the two peaces would help keep slop off the joint as well as smoothen the motion
I know an old video but adding something like wax to the inside should help reduce the friction being caused by the pinching and allow the pieces to slide better.
Putting a small horizontal wheel in between both moving parts would be weight bearing and take the load off the top bearings allowing for a smooth movement with much less friction. 🥳
The most relatable thing I've ever seen was you looking for your wrench when it was in your hand.
You can use skate bearings imbedded in the wals ans a thick washer in the middle just touching the inner race (also use washers for the nuts).
Swap the dip and the chip. Heavier weight by the bearing
if you put in a round channel between the parts and a bearing ball in that channel you limit range of motion but reduce friction between the wood parts in case that was the issue
A torrington bearing in between each half, and it would function super smooth! Probably!
he used thinner wood on the top and dowls on both ends, thats why his works.
its basically a camera stabilization arm for beer and snacks
you could try bearings from a skate board wheel, that might be a good strong bearing for short money
I would add a bearing perpendicular to the other one underneath the shaft so it gives the other piece something to ride on and keep it from binding.
24:20 - This is a great moment in TH-cam history! Cheers🍻
since the first one you made was binding up at the base of the two sides, you might have tried tapering that end maybe an eighth of an inch at the base on each side. tapering from the center to the base so that the base was one eighth of an inch less.
You made an awesome looking paperweight
turning, this should be fun
The dip is probably heavier than the chips; and it's the weight 'at a distance' that's causing the bottom of the ... contraption? ... to bind. So if you switched the positions of the dip and chips, so that the dip is closer to the pivot point, that will make a difference. Wether it makes enough of a difference depends on too many factors to calculate, but should be an easy thing to test?
Might also try raising the pivot point so the center of gravity is lower on the chip/dip tray.
OK, that vacuum trick with the glue was epic. Brilliant! worthy of a beer my friend. As for the pinch point where it's rubbing between the two sections- a piece of UHMW tape, maybe 1" wide across the bottom of each should take care of that. I used to be in sales for and Industrial Mfg co and that tape was made for a lot of automotive applications. But I found a lot of applications in woodworking where you needed to eliminate friction points for drawers, moving parts, etc. UHMW- Ultra High Molecular Weight. Think of what Teflon is for hot pans. UHMW is for friction points. Regardless, you made that more practical! loved the crock pot!
Breaking out the vacuum when you can just use string is a bit much. Now if the crack is irregular, I can see the vacuum thing being worth it.
Excelente video!
“I think I should reward myself with a 10:45 in the morning beer” 😂 John I love how sarcastic you are with the shit talkers!
2 washers and a needle bering work
What about counter sinking something that works like a fidget spinner, on the side with the drink holder, so it's reveal is just enough for the bearings to ride against the chip holder side.
Then, maybe some type of tension connection to hold it together.
Is there something (like a turnbuckle) but smaller, that will allow a stainless steel cord to spin freely inside of it?
“Can’t be an alcoholic if you don’t drink”
This is the mantra I live my life by!