I love that the point of the rocks is to use the waste products, and then they make waste specifically for the table, and then the whole table becomes waste
@@hotshot7000 itll cure and flake off over time. no different then throwing it away dry really. doesn't hurt the dumpster's feelings so who cares. although i would have happily taken it home to use the wood for a table lol.
Sorry about the bad pour. I had this kind of thing happen once, smaller amounts though. In the post-mortem, I realized that I had used more resin, instead of hardener, when I mixed it. 1:1 resin, guess I grabbed the wrong bottle. 🤷
Wow table turned out great. Resin can be used years after expiration date, you’ll see yellowing to part A, this can be rectified by adding small amounts of blue if you need a clear pour, or add any color to mask the yellowing. I have a bottle of resin that I purchased in 2017 used it last week, colored it dark blue arguably my piece was smaller, the pour turned out fine. Resin that doesn’t set is 98% operator error ❤
@@niccilefevre actually I’ve been adding a mini drop of blue or green, I tried a micro drop of white and it clouded the clear resin, I’m still experimenting with colors, in all my clear pours to reduce the possibility of yellowing.
My two cents: besides your two ideas (expired resin and/or a bad ratio), the uneven cure could have been the degassing. I only work with 3 minute resin, so it may not directly compare, but if I try to degas, it foams and cures in about 15 seconds. The inside of the pot gets fairly warm, and that might have kickstarted your cure too soon. The finished table looks great though!
IDK what you're talking about, I degass all the time and never have an issue, typically 60-80 oz degassed at a time single pours for me, never had a curing issue.
To help prevent air bubbles I've put resin along the live edge, let it get to the gummy stage then done the main pour, seems to help keep any air bubbles coming through from the wood.
I've got a crazy idea inspired by this video. Do a small end table to see how it turns out. Try smaller/non transparent pieces of epoxy and see if u can mimic a geo rock. As far as crushed epoxy. Maybe a rock crusher or something then screen out 1/2" 1/4" and 1/8th in and use what best fits the project.
I BTW really like the result, the soft pastel colors and the fact they are semi-transparent. This is so far my most favorite river effect that I saw. Others look great too, but this one is just amazing. Does it lose structural integrity because it didn't harden at the same time?
Industrial paint inspector here. Whenever we have issues of uncured coating (e.g., epoxy), 9 times out 10, it's due to "applicator error," which is a polite way of saying whoever mixed it probably screwed up the ratio. I also noticed you said during the pour that it looked like the epoxy was starting to set in some areas, so another course for the uncured base layer could be that the top layer of the pour has cured or skinned over faster than the bottom layer, preventing the deeper epoxy from completing its full cure as it's trapped/"suffocated" by the top layer.
I like this channel because it is transparent and realistic, and shows the failures and struggles of creating. Also, takes both with a positive attitude.
I appreciate you leaving the mistakes in. We all make them, even experienced fabricators, but not all of us share our fails. A mistake is a learning experience, share it.
Good idea! Suggestion: Wouldn't it make more sense to mould the "rocks" smooth first then tumble to have less waste? (Yeah, I know this kinda defeats the "use the waste resin idea")
While most epoxy companies will tell you their products have a one-year shelf life, That's only because the hardener will Amber or yellow after a year due to oxidization. When stored properly the epoxy will still cure to its full mechanical potential for several years after that shelf life. You just would not want to use it for any clear applications. What you experienced was a mix issue either being off ratio, or simply not mixing long enough. Take your time , keep your paddle mixer fully submerged, mix at a slow speed, stopping several times to scrape the sides and bottom of the container. I typically never mix more than a 2 gallons at a time, and generally mix for about 4 to 6 minutes.
Solid colors on the "rocks"...I was thinking the same thing the whole way through. In fact, when you pulled out the gold I figured you were going to with black and then drizzle the gold and maybe some white over it to make it look like marble.
When you cut the bark off my heart shattered it would’ve made such a nice contrast with the light iridescent rocks! I also was hoping you’d do a dark contrast rock in navy blue to really give the table some depth but this turned out so well!
My guess is that the epoxy ratio was not correct or it was not mixed throughly. The temperature and degassing would not have made some of it cure and some of it still be liquid. I also do not think shelf life would affect it that much. I've used TotalBoat epoxy that was years old with no problems.
Only bad thing about the DIY Mr. Cool units is that no good HVAC company wants to service them. When it breaks down it will be easier to just replace it then get someone to repair it.
It's not from degassing too long. I worked as an engineer at a wind turbine manufacturing facility and we could leave resin in a degassing tank for 24 hours, conservatively. I feel your pain tho. 😢
What type of resin was it that you used and are you positive that you kept under vacuum for 24 hours and not in a pressure pot? The reason I ask is that this type of resin will start to boil under vacuum very rapidly once the majority of the air bubbles are evacuated..
Question for the engineer - Is it at all possible that the epoxy rocks and shards, under heat, partially reactivated or reacted, throwing off the ratio?
@@thefrankperspective4247 if they're cured its fine. When we did any kind of repairs on blades, we used resin again (like filling holes or reinforcements) on cured resin with no issues.
As someone who has done a lot of large scale epoxy projects I have 1 bit of advise (This is specific to what your doing in this video, not for all resin project just this 1 type) (Ignoring the non cure part coz that was out of your control) Clamp the wood down with a lot of clamps take your time with this part, making sure it's level. Add the epoxy rocks. Only add 1 quarter of the total resin you need, pop the bubbles like normal, then later check on it while it's still soft. Any new bubbles pop as many large one as I can it with something pointy (cocktail stick or a bbq screwer depending on size) Once it's set add the next quarter and repeat over and over. Keep the surface dust freel with cheap plastic wrap, it's just a precaution I personally do (Without it touching the resin, of course) But even better buy a vacuum chamber and de gas the resin before adding it VERY SLOWLY to not make new bubbles (I will admit they aren't cheap, but with the amount of resin/epoxy projects you do it's a well worth investment) Hope this helps or inspires some new ideas for your future projects.
couple of questions 1. could you use spray sealer in place of the quick resin 2. would pouring a thin-ish layer of resin first and letting it part set before putting in the rocks and then topping up worked better?
That table turned out so much better looking than I thought it would. At the start of the video I thought there was no way this was going to look good, granted I never saw the one you got the idea from. Keep up the great videos.
I actually really like the opalescent look and would actually prefer it to show more. Also maybe have more contrast between the light and dark color rocks. it seems to be a great way to use up excess epoxy in a variety of builds large and small scale like pen blanks, knife scales and all the way up to tables.
QUESTION, is the air hiding under your wood that isn't flat against the table? Then all that trapped air underneath the wood would cause the lower level not to harden? Am i wrong????
You should do what Blacktail Studio does and paint the wood with fast set epoxy first. It keeps the bubbles from coming out of the wood into the resin.
Hi 👋, great looking job, Mercedes a few years ago, encapsulated a Mercedes 4x4 into an epoxy resin block. Not sure where you seen it., I presume if you’ve got the equipment and the money, anything is possible. Phil from the moulin
The opalescent result looks good. If you can find some storage space for the 'failed pour' tables, it could be a 'limited stock' item when you fill a storage bin.
I have learned so much from your mistakes, thank you! I have been doing epoxy tables for more than two years, and have avoided many major mistakes by watching your videos. Unfortunately, I have been able to invent some monumental blunders all on my own. The real talent in making epoxy mistakes is the ability to fix that which you have screwed up. And you have helped immeasurably with that process. Again, Thank you!
Sometimes it goes bad. We live to learn and learn to live. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friends. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friends fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God bless.
my guesses on what caused the pour failure are either that it wasn't mixed properly (I've seen those streaks form in that case,) the wrong ratio was used, or that there was moisture that got trapped in it. moisture in the wood or mold, or even in the epoxy itself would probably vaporize from the heat and form those big pockets. I don't know if epoxy resins can trap moisture, but I work with 3D printers a little, and I know that whenever you use certain plastics like Nylon, for example, you have to dry them out before use.
Been going through a hard time lately in general but also struggling to keep a positive mindset after making a mistake on a project. Obviously you can’t throw a fit on camera but I’m gonna let this video be a lesson for taking one on the chin with grace. I feel like having a great attitude is so important when trying something new. Table looks great.
This couple bought a brand new UTV and went riding. They rode for about a half mile and it caught fire. They bailed off it without getting burned. Totaled of course. The aluminum wheels melted and formed puddles that looked like bright, shiny streams. Very pretty. I can imagine pouring molten aluminum down a new, flat aluminum plate while tilting it to form a crooked stream and then inlaying the stream into wood.
I’m over a year late. But maybe breaking up the rocks in a large Rubbermaid container would help stop them from escaping. Like the ones they make to store under your bed.
As Portuguese the final product kinda looked like Portuguese pavement, give it a look, it consists in dark blue and white rocks cut to shape by hand, doing something like it in Epoxy could look really nice.
15:10 here are some things you could try to improve the pour: - pour less at a time and wait for it to cure first (repeat until it's filled to the top) - cool the epoxy while it's curing - use a UV lamp to make sure it cures to 100% before taking it out of the mold.
Honestly I love the good successful builds but there is something very entertaining about the fails also. Kinda makes people like myself feel better about failing at a project
Uhm, excuse me. Working with epoxy is *not* woodworking. Joking obviously, it just reminded me of some comments Cam from Black Tail Studio always points out when someone tries to gatekeep woodworking again.
My daughter (8) says she and her brother (5) would like to see more kid stuff. They absolutely loved the volcano table you did. They are huge fans btw and we watch your TH-cam every night at bedtime.
John, how cold was the room when it was curing? Hotter cures faster, cold takes longer or not at all. I aim to have it around 75. If it's really cool, it can still cure, but can take a lot longer. I normally work with polyurethane, so I'm not sure about your total boat resin. Also how old is it? If it's around 6-12 months, it SHOULD be okay. But again, every case is different and resin can be a bitch.
@@John_Malecki Gotcha, Hmm... I did have a case where I degassed too long and it started to cure faster than normal. I also did get those booger whisps when over degassing too. It would be amazing if you built a huge pressure pot and it will solve a lot of bubble problems. If anyone could do it, you have the resources and space. Maybe not for full slabs, but the smaller end tables Degass - pulls bubbles out Pressure pot - pushes them to microscopic (not able to see w/ naked eye)
I love that the point of the rocks is to use the waste products, and then they make waste specifically for the table, and then the whole table becomes waste
Yeah... I wish they could've found a way to at least dispose of all that responsibly, rather than just dumping liquid pouring resin into the dumpster
@@hotshot7000 itll cure and flake off over time. no different then throwing it away dry really. doesn't hurt the dumpster's feelings so who cares. although i would have happily taken it home to use the wood for a table lol.
It’s the circle of life 😂
"An attempt was made" 😅
The irony the irony is strong with this one!!!
If you did the silver and blue "rocks" only you could do a frozen river with chunks of ice floating throughout.i think that's be a pretty cool table
Great video. I love when the mistakes are shown. It's unfortunate you couldn't track down exactly what happened.
Almost looks like one of the buckets of resin wasn’t mixed or bottles mislabeled when shipped
It definitely felt like the hardener was missing, that’s for sure! 😬
Sorry about the bad pour. I had this kind of thing happen once, smaller amounts though. In the post-mortem, I realized that I had used more resin, instead of hardener, when I mixed it. 1:1 resin, guess I grabbed the wrong bottle. 🤷
Yeah I think the exact same thing happened to me. One of the layers is still a bit gummy almost a decade later
Wow table turned out great.
Resin can be used years after expiration date, you’ll see yellowing to part A, this can be rectified by adding small amounts of blue if you need a clear pour, or add any color to mask the yellowing.
I have a bottle of resin that I purchased in 2017 used it last week, colored it dark blue arguably my piece was smaller, the pour turned out fine. Resin that doesn’t set is 98% operator error ❤
Thanks for the tip.
I have some that I put in a cabinet and forgot about but I still want to use.
This is why I think they should have added a touch of blue, total boat tends to yellow a lot over time and that would've helped it age a tad better.
@@niccilefevre actually I’ve been adding a mini drop of blue or green, I tried a micro drop of white and it clouded the clear resin, I’m still experimenting with colors, in all my clear pours to reduce the possibility of yellowing.
It might be worth it to put the time in to making a rock mold for the epoxy.
Great now I cant stop thinking about doing this rock technique and carving something out of it. Fantastic idea.
My two cents: besides your two ideas (expired resin and/or a bad ratio), the uneven cure could have been the degassing. I only work with 3 minute resin, so it may not directly compare, but if I try to degas, it foams and cures in about 15 seconds. The inside of the pot gets fairly warm, and that might have kickstarted your cure too soon. The finished table looks great though!
IDK what you're talking about, I degass all the time and never have an issue, typically 60-80 oz degassed at a time single pours for me, never had a curing issue.
To help prevent air bubbles I've put resin along the live edge, let it get to the gummy stage then done the main pour, seems to help keep any air bubbles coming through from the wood.
I feel like you need to call Evan and Katelyn for any and all resin questions. 😂
I've got a crazy idea inspired by this video. Do a small end table to see how it turns out. Try smaller/non transparent pieces of epoxy and see if u can mimic a geo rock. As far as crushed epoxy. Maybe a rock crusher or something then screen out 1/2" 1/4" and 1/8th in and use what best fits the project.
I BTW really like the result, the soft pastel colors and the fact they are semi-transparent. This is so far my most favorite river effect that I saw. Others look great too, but this one is just amazing.
Does it lose structural integrity because it didn't harden at the same time?
Industrial paint inspector here. Whenever we have issues of uncured coating (e.g., epoxy), 9 times out 10, it's due to "applicator error," which is a polite way of saying whoever mixed it probably screwed up the ratio. I also noticed you said during the pour that it looked like the epoxy was starting to set in some areas, so another course for the uncured base layer could be that the top layer of the pour has cured or skinned over faster than the bottom layer, preventing the deeper epoxy from completing its full cure as it's trapped/"suffocated" by the top layer.
I like this channel because it is transparent and realistic, and shows the failures and struggles of creating. Also, takes both with a positive attitude.
I appreciate you leaving the mistakes in. We all make them, even experienced fabricators, but not all of us share our fails. A mistake is a learning experience, share it.
I don’t, it makes the video longer
Thoughts on tumbling the resin rocks so they are smooth? Might be a cool evolution.
Good idea!
Suggestion: Wouldn't it make more sense to mould the "rocks" smooth first then tumble to have less waste? (Yeah, I know this kinda defeats the "use the waste resin idea")
I love that you still posted this video. We all make mistakes.. it’s nice to share them. We can all learn from them. Love you guys
Evan and Katelyn need to help this guy
While most epoxy companies will tell you their products have a one-year shelf life, That's only because the hardener will Amber or yellow after a year due to oxidization. When stored properly the epoxy will still cure to its full mechanical potential for several years after that shelf life. You just would not want to use it for any clear applications. What you experienced was a mix issue either being off ratio, or simply not mixing long enough. Take your time , keep your paddle mixer fully submerged, mix at a slow speed, stopping several times to scrape the sides and bottom of the container. I typically never mix more than a 2 gallons at a time, and generally mix for about 4 to 6 minutes.
Solid colors on the "rocks"...I was thinking the same thing the whole way through. In fact, when you pulled out the gold I figured you were going to with black and then drizzle the gold and maybe some white over it to make it look like marble.
Y'all are a bunch of children with dangerous power tools... an I LOVE it!
Another wonderful Malecki lesson! Thanks John, keep ‘‘em coming!!!
When you cut the bark off my heart shattered it would’ve made such a nice contrast with the light iridescent rocks! I also was hoping you’d do a dark contrast rock in navy blue to really give the table some depth but this turned out so well!
I've been thinking of something similar, but using lumps of coloured glass, looks great. Cheers
My husband and I love watching your videos together! Thanks for all you do!
My guess is that the epoxy ratio was not correct or it was not mixed throughly. The temperature and degassing would not have made some of it cure and some of it still be liquid. I also do not think shelf life would affect it that much. I've used TotalBoat epoxy that was years old with no problems.
I can't get over how nice it ended up looking! So pretty.
Only bad thing about the DIY Mr. Cool units is that no good HVAC company wants to service them. When it breaks down it will be easier to just replace it then get someone to repair it.
That turned out much nicer than I was thinking. Great job!
It's not from degassing too long. I worked as an engineer at a wind turbine manufacturing facility and we could leave resin in a degassing tank for 24 hours, conservatively. I feel your pain tho. 😢
Thank you, i still have no clue how i messed it up so bad
What type of resin was it that you used and are you positive that you kept under vacuum for 24 hours and not in a pressure pot? The reason I ask is that this type of resin will start to boil under vacuum very rapidly once the majority of the air bubbles are evacuated..
@@bearded_firemedic polyester and epoxy resins and yes under vacuum. Not sure how industrial resin is different from this in the video. Good point
Question for the engineer - Is it at all possible that the epoxy rocks and shards, under heat, partially reactivated or reacted,
throwing off the ratio?
@@thefrankperspective4247 if they're cured its fine. When we did any kind of repairs on blades, we used resin again (like filling holes or reinforcements) on cured resin with no issues.
This would probably be a hellish project idea, but you should do a bent resin waterfall table, with the wood part kerfed and bent.
I love the courage and creativity that went into this. I love the finished product 🎉
hahahah the courage to make it for content and the creativity to copy an idea. bravo
As someone who has done a lot of large scale epoxy projects I have 1 bit of advise
(This is specific to what your doing in this video, not for all resin project just this 1 type)
(Ignoring the non cure part coz that was out of your control)
Clamp the wood down with a lot of clamps take your time with this part, making sure it's level.
Add the epoxy rocks. Only add 1 quarter of the total resin you need, pop the bubbles like normal, then later check on it while it's still soft.
Any new bubbles pop as many large one as I can it with something pointy (cocktail stick or a bbq screwer depending on size)
Once it's set add the next quarter and repeat over and over.
Keep the surface dust freel with cheap plastic wrap, it's just a precaution I personally do (Without it touching the resin, of course)
But even better buy a vacuum chamber and de gas the resin before adding it VERY SLOWLY to not make new bubbles (I will admit they aren't cheap, but with the amount of resin/epoxy projects you do it's a well worth investment)
Hope this helps or inspires some new ideas for your future projects.
couple of questions
1. could you use spray sealer in place of the quick resin
2. would pouring a thin-ish layer of resin first and letting it part set before putting in the rocks and then topping up worked better?
Another great video showing the good, the bad, and the ugly about builds! Thank you for sharing!
Thank goodness it worked out!!! We like to say - measure 5x, pour once!
The table looks awesome! Now I'd like to see one with solid black resin, same clear stones, glass finish.
I'm actually pretty impressed with the strength of that epoxy
Great video John! This is what we like to see. Keep the builds comin!
I’d love to see it with solid earthy coloured rocks like charcoals and what not. Keep up the amazing work !
Or natural gem colors like turquoise
I want to see version two. Take the first table, slice it up, throw it in a new mold, and pour resin over it. 10/10
That table turned out so much better looking than I thought it would. At the start of the video I thought there was no way this was going to look good, granted I never saw the one you got the idea from. Keep up the great videos.
Love the idea of the leftover resin for use as fillers - I can see creating something using marbles to the same effect.
To me, this feels filmed and structured like a 2000's TV show in the best way possible.
Wow, that was really fun to watch!! Love the final table…just beautiful!!
I actually really like the opalescent look and would actually prefer it to show more. Also maybe have more contrast between the light and dark color rocks. it seems to be a great way to use up excess epoxy in a variety of builds large and small scale like pen blanks, knife scales and all the way up to tables.
QUESTION, is the air hiding under your wood that isn't flat against the table? Then all that trapped air underneath the wood would cause the lower level not to harden? Am i wrong????
You should do what Blacktail Studio does and paint the wood with fast set epoxy first. It keeps the bubbles from coming out of the wood into the resin.
work with resin for composite boat building. only time i have ever seen that issue is ratio issues with the resin to hardener.
Hi 👋, great looking job, Mercedes a few years ago, encapsulated a Mercedes 4x4 into an epoxy resin block. Not sure where you seen it., I presume if you’ve got the equipment and the money, anything is possible. Phil from the moulin
The end result looks magical!
Just a suggestion for cleaning the "rocks" before your pour... Put them in a strainer and wash them, like lettuce.
The opalescent result looks good. If you can find some storage space for the 'failed pour' tables, it could be a 'limited stock' item when you fill a storage bin.
I have learned so much from your mistakes, thank you! I have been doing epoxy tables for more than two years, and have avoided many major mistakes by watching your videos. Unfortunately, I have been able to invent some monumental blunders all on my own. The real talent in making epoxy mistakes is the ability to fix that which you have screwed up. And you have helped immeasurably with that process. Again, Thank you!
Love the way this one turned out, great job!
wow those rocks turned out super nice
Sometimes it goes bad. We live to learn and learn to live. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friends. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friends fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God bless.
Whenever you mix the epoxy it must be poured into the second bucket and mixed again, only in this way both components are guaranteed to connect
It really turned out beautiful, John! Fantastic work! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Malecki should make a mold to get the rock shape he wants. It's kind of like an ice tray just for the rock shapes.
GI 1000 silicone is amazing for such things.
I love the inadvertent advertisement for the durability of epoxy!
For any resin questions you should DEFINATELY talk to Evan and Katelyn. They are resin EXPERTS here on youtube.
my guesses on what caused the pour failure are either that it wasn't mixed properly (I've seen those streaks form in that case,) the wrong ratio was used, or that there was moisture that got trapped in it. moisture in the wood or mold, or even in the epoxy itself would probably vaporize from the heat and form those big pockets. I don't know if epoxy resins can trap moisture, but I work with 3D printers a little, and I know that whenever you use certain plastics like Nylon, for example, you have to dry them out before use.
Dude I love your videos!😊😊😊
Love screaming donkey. His stuff is amazing
Been going through a hard time lately in general but also struggling to keep a positive mindset after making a mistake on a project. Obviously you can’t throw a fit on camera but I’m gonna let this video be a lesson for taking one on the chin with grace. I feel like having a great attitude is so important when trying something new. Table looks great.
John, that was a beaut of a table, even i know river rocks don't have sharp edges.
That was actually kind of cool!
You might even say it was... mr cool!
First things first......the portrait on the wall is awesome.....now back to the video
Interesting concept. Best part was using the bandsaw to flatten the top.
Really cool result! I love when your videos build things. The test ones are cool but the build vids are better. This was a great combination of both!
John: “Round 2”
Editor inserts Mortal Kombat “FIGHT”.
THIS is why I love this channel so much 😂😂😂
9:04 - Love that *"Yes!"* for the sledge hammers!
At least the bad resin wasn’t used on a high-end client project. Small blessing for sure.
Turn one of these slabs into a wall mounted marble run. Copper tubing with slats for wood section and clear acrylic tubing for epoxy sections.
This couple bought a brand new UTV and went riding. They rode for about a half mile and it caught fire. They bailed off it without getting burned. Totaled of course. The aluminum wheels
melted and formed puddles that looked like bright, shiny streams. Very pretty. I can imagine pouring molten aluminum down a new, flat aluminum plate while tilting it to form a crooked
stream and then inlaying the stream into wood.
Excellent at the end…great!
Turned out great. I might watch a few more of these to try my hand at one. !!! Great inspiration.
I’m over a year late. But maybe breaking up the rocks in a large Rubbermaid container would help stop them from escaping. Like the ones they make to store under your bed.
swinging a sledgehammer axe as hard as you can at something sitting one inch above the concrete is THE definition of getting squirrely
That looks awesome. Might be interesting to embed some ARGB LED light strips underneath rocks for lighting effect.
As Portuguese the final product kinda looked like Portuguese pavement, give it a look, it consists in dark blue and white rocks cut to shape by hand, doing something like it in Epoxy could look really nice.
The word for that look is opalescent. The other word for it is SICK!
Awesome project 👍, maybe something like putting your faux rock in a tumbler to smooth off sharp edges or a cement mixer to knock around. 🤔
Live & learn. all of us must and you do it in such an entertaining way. Great vid!
15:10 here are some things you could try to improve the pour:
- pour less at a time and wait for it to cure first (repeat until it's filled to the top)
- cool the epoxy while it's curing
- use a UV lamp to make sure it cures to 100% before taking it out of the mold.
The chunks look like real crystals beautiful
was there no part of the first slab that you could not save/recycle..??
Honestly I love the good successful builds but there is something very entertaining about the fails also. Kinda makes people like myself feel better about failing at a project
I love that you celebrate the bark strip :)
One of the best wood workers on here!
Uhm, excuse me. Working with epoxy is *not* woodworking.
Joking obviously, it just reminded me of some comments Cam from Black Tail Studio always points out when someone tries to gatekeep woodworking again.
He’s terrible at using diy tools. He’s good using pro tools
Looks great!
I love the screaming donkey.
That's freakin' gorgeous, I love it. Great job, and y'all know shih happens just keep on rollin'.
Some LED lights underneath would make it even more 🔥🔥🔥
My daughter (8) says she and her brother (5) would like to see more kid stuff. They absolutely loved the volcano table you did. They are huge fans btw and we watch your TH-cam every night at bedtime.
John, how cold was the room when it was curing? Hotter cures faster, cold takes longer or not at all. I aim to have it around 75. If it's really cool, it can still cure, but can take a lot longer. I normally work with polyurethane, so I'm not sure about your total boat resin. Also how old is it? If it's around 6-12 months, it SHOULD be okay. But again, every case is different and resin can be a bitch.
We keep the room under 70. The longer it takes the less bubbles we get so we prefer cold.
@@John_Malecki Gotcha, Hmm... I did have a case where I degassed too long and it started to cure faster than normal. I also did get those booger whisps when over degassing too.
It would be amazing if you built a huge pressure pot and it will solve a lot of bubble problems. If anyone could do it, you have the resources and space. Maybe not for full slabs, but the smaller end tables
Degass - pulls bubbles out
Pressure pot - pushes them to microscopic (not able to see w/ naked eye)
The yeeting them off the forklift is a great testament to epoxy's strength
Aren't we done with thus epoxy and live edge fad? Brutal.
Might I recommend an air hammer with chisel tips next time? Really BEATS the old manual hammer and hand chisel bit...
This was an entertaining watch, thanks! Too bad about the wrecked pour but shift happens. You take it in stride n move forward.
I feel like working with epoxy like this resuilts in so much microplastics going into the nearby environment.