After a lot of online research I found the adapter kit for the 8th gen. "Otc 6653" I hope this helps somebody it took me days of researching trying to find the correct adapter set. Pairing that information with this great video should definitely help somebody. it covers a few Acuras also.. it's about $100.. For use on 2009-2014 Acura TL and TSX, 2008-2012 Honda Accord, 2010-2011 Honda Accord Crosstour, 2012-2014 Honda Crosstour
Comparing this video to Z-speed video doing the same job, it is clear that this mechanic has professional experience doing front suspension work and Z-speed does not. Note the size of the hammer he uses to release the taper and exactly where he is hitting the cast iron components. Great video of the correct way to do the job.
Whoever downvoted this post needs to have their TH-cam watching privileges revoked!! This was amazing. Need to do this to my parents' car. The only thing I'm missing is the ball press kit and the Honda ball joint adapter. Thanks for the inspiration!
I think he's referring to tightening them before the suspension is loaded. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you don't have to mark the distance if you tighten all the bolts while the suspension is loaded. (In other words, jacked up by the arm)
Good work man. You Make it look fairly easy to viewers but we know it's not. Especially without a lift and bench it's Double the Trouble. Anytime my gloves bust like that I know I'm having a long day and I'm hoping for a tip. Lol...
Thanks for post ... appreciate your comment. The job is easy as it looks ... at least for me. It's all a matter of having power tools, the right specialty tools and prior experience. First time I did a Honda front end suspension job I was scratching my head.
The only issue I had with this video, was that you used a hammer to beat directly on the end of the CV Axle, in MOST cases this would lead to mushrooming the CV axle threads and needing to replace it if you weren't planning to already. Other then that, good video 👌
I paid $2k for My get-going auto technician friend (labor & parts) so he replaced the 2 front leaked shock , and two lower control arms (bushings were shown cracks)...he was saying meh not an easy job order!! After watching this video, I could tell ,,,my technician friend was well deserved whatever the labor $$ was paid there!! It is not an easy job!
Nope. The front vertical mount sets the correct height position for the control arm. If there were two horizontal mounts, you'd have to apply load to the arm to compress the strut spring before torquing.
How do I go about getting the strut back onto the fork if I didn't remove the entire wheel knuckle ? No matter what I do the fork just won't go into the strut, I can't get enough weigh on the lower control arm to create enough clearance.
The fork fits in the strut, what I mean is it's like the strut is too long or something, I have to put my entire body weight in the hub to get the fork under the strut to insert it, but then I can't get the bolt on the bottom of the fork to line up with the bottom of the knuckle because it's sitting way too low, idk wtf I did wrong but this is a nightmare to fix. @@hardlymovingpro
Not taking the snap ring off the boot first is that a reason the ball joint pushes back through the knuckle? I put a new ball joint in yesterday and today it's sticking half way up to the point the nut is partially sitting in the control arm slot.
If the diameter of the boot is larger than the joint, the boot won't squeeze through the control arm mounting hole. Some boots are the same diameter and you won't have problems
@@hardlymovingpro I used a ball joint press on the new ball joint until it could not press anymore. The ball joint wasn't flushed and I'm thinking is this the reason the ball joint is sticking half way through the knuckle. It did not have a c-clip. 2012 Acura TL and I am stumped on why it's doing it and I have always worked on my car and never had this issue.
I've watched countless videos on this project and you're the first that shows how to properly remove the knuckle/bearing dust shield!! Could I use a different tool and pull on the ring or is it recommended that I use that seal puller? Thanks!!!
You can use the tip of a large screw driver or chisel tool to work the shield off. A few light taps on the screw driver handle will gradually jar the shield loose.
Hard to say. Get some repair quotes (with detail written parts) and seeing what the prices you can get the parts for. Rockauto.com is a good source for parts.
when your reinstalling the upper ball joint ; is it a good idea to jack the hub up to " pre load " the upper ball joint when tightening down the castle nut?>
@@hardlymovingpro one other question , I also have the milwaukee stubby impact 3/8 and the 1/2. Would I be safe with the stubby on the 3rd setting when hitting those castle nuts? I don't want to over power the nut and damage the ball joint.
@@reza_dc2 With castle nuts, apply intial torque until the nut stops moving; then apply final torque (around 35 lbs) to align the nut with the cotter pin stud hole. If not comfortable with the torque generated with the impact tool, apply torque manually.
Hey man I'v kinda hit a brick wall with my repair. I ordered ball joints from Honda gave them my VIN and all that jazz and the ball joints just slide right in the spindle without the use of a press
Excellent tutorial! Would it be the same procedure for a 2013 Accord, balljoint & control arm? I'm thinking I need this done because going over bumps i hear a what sounds like a rattle from the passenger side? And what about torq specs?
Honda has not changed the basic design of their passenger car front suspension since the 90’s. So yes ... the procedure should be very close for a 2013 design. Don’t have the torque specs.
cool thanks I was wondering because I’m doing a full front end suspension replace, then the rear but the rear looks more easy than the front. thanks again.
Question: When I am accelerating from a complete stop or making a right turn and accelerating, the front-right wheel feels as if it is vibrating. What could that be? The strut was tested out for bouncing and it does not seem like that is the issue, I am assuming it may be the ball joint vibrating, but can it be the lower control arm?? ALSO, when the car is hot from a long drive, I can feel and hear as I am driving, noises from the wheel area.. like knocking sounds as I kind of turn the wheel or accelerate. PLEASE ASSIST ME!
If its a older, high mileage car, it could a combination of worn out suspension components. That is why I prefer to replace all the parts that make up a front suspension as shown in the video. Unfortunately, a regular repair shop would be reluctant to perform all this work together since they profit more by replacing individual parts and have you return later on to have another part replaced. They may argue that replacement of all is not necessary and a waste of money; until you come back arguing your dissatisfaction with their work. They might then recommend another part be replaced which they should have replaced to begin with.
I believe they are the same for the coupe and sedan. Also for '08 on up to '12, Honda made the ball joints a little larger but retained the double wish bone suspension setup.
Good question and don't have an answer. Most shops wouldn't do all this work. They usually provide piece meal repairs so the cost won't seem so high one item at a time.
Hey, I appreciate the video. I have a 2007 Honda Accord with 152k miles. I drive about 50-60 miles a day. It rides poorly and slams loudly over bumps/potholes from the front and back. It wobbles even on perfect roads, more noticeable at higher speeds. My tires are relatively new. I want to keep this car for a while longer. What do you suggest? Thanks in advance!
Sounds like you need to do some comprehensive suspension work. That would include the suspension struts, lower control arm with new bushings, sway bar links and new ball joints. Trying to isolate a specific suspension part maybe an exercise in futility. Usually when one part fails the other parts that are connected are weak and may also be on their way out.
He was overjoyed! Immediately noticed the difference. And that was a service/repair on only one side! I told him I could do the other side ... but just the strut. But he'd spent so much money on me fixing his 99 Suburban (entire AC system replaced) and his wife's Avalon, he held off on the replacement.
@@hardlymovingpro I figured he was happy all that work you did,great job my man...I have a question about my 2005 Honda Accord 140,000 miles,I'm noticing a WOBBLE at all speeds,at first I thought it was my tires,so I had them rebalanced with an alignment,didn't cure the WOBBLE,today I took it to FIRESTONE,they said I needed front struts and sway bar links and bushings,does that sound correct to you???
Considering the mileage, I would do everything you saw in this video but YOU provide the parts ... otherwise, you'll easily looking at over a $1K job ... for one side! There are suspension replacement kits with most of the parts available from Ebay vendors. I prefer using the vendor Detroit Axle. The WOBBLE could be caused by either a worn out inner or outer tie rod, or lower control arm bushings. This usually happens at low speed acceleration or braking. But since its happening at all speeds, it could simply be a bent/out-of-balance CV axle. I'd focus on the axle first IMHO. That should cost you around $150 to replace. What you saw in this video, for one side, took me around 3.5 hrs. A mechanic with Honda experience should be able to do it in this time frame. If they argue for more time, tell them to watch the video as a tutorial.
I did the same except my abs was so stuck I had to drill it out after I broke it lol oooo and I had a bolt that was stuck In a bushing on the lower control arm and I had to cut off with Sawzall what a pain
I feel your pain. Had it happen to me with the lower control arm bolt. Had to cut it off. Didn't try to remove the ABS line. I just worked on the steering knuckle close to the car with the line attached.
Did you find the ball joints were worn or loose? I did this on my 08 with 170k and everything still seems tight. Both ball joints and tie rods are tight with no play. Struts even responsive. Wheel bearings are getting though.
Maybe a little bit of both. Customer was complaining about how the suspension just didn't feel like when the car was new. Told him I could make it feel like new by replacing everything ... except the tie rods. Since the lower ball joints are inexpensive and easy for me to replace, it wasn't a big deal for me to replace them with the new lower control arms. Don't believe the upper control arms and ball joints are under a lot of stress and perhaps they can be avoided for replacement. But again, the upper control arms with new ball joints were not that expensive. I can say that he was extremely happy after I did the job...that he didn't realize how bad these suspension components had become until after they were replaced and drove the car. Honda suspensions are finicky when compared to Toyotas. But when the suspension components are all in good working condition, they out perform Toyotas. Also, I don't like customer "come backs" where they say things like "well ... its a better but not quite what I expected" or "the rides a little smoother except when I hit big bumps in the road" or "there's a slight delay in the steering response" or "there's a squeaking noise when I make a right hand turn and hit a bump", .... etc.
Just the vids i was looking for and the cv axle...nice walk through.....i think i need to bring my acura to you with the parts...you on the west coast?...haha seriously...
No problem...This is going to help out a lot...wish me luck when i tackle it...hope i can breeze through it like you did....thanks for listing the parts and tools links...good job man.
What adaptors did you use to install the lower ball joint. I am stuck on my 11 accord. I have tried autozone and oreilly tool rental and pieces dont work for me.
@@hardlymovingpro when I click on the link in the description, it doesn't look the same as the receiver you used. Can you confirm, please? I am also having trouble finding the right receiver to taking it off. Thank you!
@@stephenfloyd315 The newer Honda ball joints are larger. Don't know if there's a kit provider. You maybe able to use a universal adapter with a cut out.
Thanks! They're Honda specific ball joint press adapters. From 2008 on up, Honda increased the size/diameter of their ball joints. I used the earlier model adapters that worked somewhat but had to bang out the remainder of the ball joint. Haven't been able to find the larger adapter. You can possibly make your own. Just get a standard ball joint removal adapter and make cut outs so the adapter can fit inside the steering knuckle.
Does anybody know where I can find the lower ball joint adapter for the 8th gen that is reasonably priced. I ordered the powerbuilt kit number 76 and the adapter is not big enough to receive the ball joint any advice would be great I've been searching online everywhere
You can use the old version to partially get the ball joint out; then hammer the remaining out. I was thinking about making my own by getting the right diameter tube and making a cut out to get it to fit.
Hardly Moving Productions replacement because bending the metal and indenting the nut weakens it. Though I have seen many people just reuse it. I realized I had a typo before sorry
@@Rodecpt0 For peace of mind, if you want to replace it, by all means, replace it. Unless the threads have been corrupted by corrosion, I see no need except to enrich the dealerships.
@@hardlymovingpro hahaha I am a pro too and fix a lot of used car and when I remove 10mm bolts used for the brake bracket and ABS they often snap at he head because ''pro mechanic'' used impact on high torque settings when they put em back in...
@@flrpower5628 Which is why, as a pro, you develop a "feel" for the right amount of torque to be applied using an impact tool. If the nut or bolt requires too long a time to come loose with the gun, I apply penetrating oil and go into manual mode doing 1/4" tightening and loosening movements. Once there's good movement on the nut or bolt, I switch back to electric mode. If you're new to using impact tools of different torque ratings and settings, it will take time gaining confidence in using these tools with the right about of torque to be applied. Once you have this confidence, these tools become indispensable since they are tremendous time and effort savers. 10 mm bolts and nuts, used as fasteners, are not as critical as 10 mm bolts, for example, holding on a water pump; that I apply the final torque manually using a 1/4" socket wrench since I do not want to exceed over 7 lbs of torque and need to apply torque gradually and evenly. I rarely use a 1/2" impact drive on anything smaller than 12 mm; but in this video I did. I mostly use either a 3/8" electric ratchet or 3/8" 12V impact gun. The nut or bolt will not shear off unless you keep your finger on the trigger too long.
@@hardlymovingpro It's all about details. Speed is one thing but thoroughness is king. I also noticed that just on the lower bolt fork to lower control arm, that you torqued the bolt without the suspension being compressed. This will prematurely wear that brand new bushing... But you're a pro too so all is good. lol
@@flrpower5628 Perhaps you are correct ... but tell that to the pros on a flat rate / commission pay system that thoroughness is king. And tell that to the auto manufacturers who short change the techs on the max allocated repair time for a warranty repair. Oh ... and there's no compensation for diagnostic time for warranty work dealing with mechanical issues. It's unfortunate, but our current system rewards speed and it's been that way for the last 30 years ... which explains why so many techs burn out and there's a shortage of techs coming out of votech schools. All the tech has to or wants to worry about is customer "come backs" during the warranty period so they don't have to revisit the work for free.
Enjoyed your video,no unnecessary music not trying to be funny and keeping talk to minimum. Good vid and good job performance. Gracias...
After a lot of online research I found the adapter kit for the 8th gen. "Otc 6653" I hope this helps somebody it took me days of researching trying to find the correct adapter set. Pairing that information with this great video should definitely help somebody. it covers a few Acuras also.. it's about $100..
For use on 2009-2014 Acura TL and TSX, 2008-2012 Honda Accord, 2010-2011 Honda Accord Crosstour, 2012-2014 Honda Crosstour
Glad you found one but it's a little pricey. I'll post the link into the description of this video. Thanks!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Amazing video, i can already feel my car asking for new struts so this is really helpful and gives me confidence to do it.
Let us know how to work turns out!
asdfkqq did you ever do the job?
@@tyler238 not yet because my car still drives fine, it's a little more bumpy I feel like by 2021 I'll do it.
asdfkqq ohh gotchya, I was just curious because my front end needs work. Tbh the parts aren’t expensive
@@tyler238 as long as you have an impact driver like he does on the video, you should be fine.
this is the first vid on youtube that I’ve seen where it looks how it actually looks to work on a car minus the rust particles falling in your eyes
Thanks for the post and glad you liked it!
And this other guy didn't show all this stuff. He fast forward the hard parts.. Almost have go fuk my car up..
Comparing this video to Z-speed video doing the same job, it is clear that this mechanic has professional experience doing front suspension work and Z-speed does not. Note the size of the hammer he uses to release the taper and exactly where he is hitting the cast iron components. Great video of the correct way to do the job.
Thanks for your comments and insightful critique!
This is the best of youtube for me, thanks for the video!
Thanks alot you make it look so easy. but with the right tools and experience, I am sure it can be done. thanks again.
You are correct. Having the right tools makes it go easier and faster.
Whoever downvoted this post needs to have their TH-cam watching privileges revoked!! This was amazing. Need to do this to my parents' car. The only thing I'm missing is the ball press kit and the Honda ball joint adapter. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thanks for your post and support!
Love this video. I'm working on my front suspension and its help me a lot!!!! Thanks and I definitely will be subscribing!!!!
Thanks for your comment and support! This video covers a lot but if you replace the parts that I replaced in the video, the car will ride like new!
Excellent video
Thanks for the visit!
@@hardlymovingpro we bow down to your excellent video. Informative/simple, sweet.
why do you mark the distance between the car frame and the upper control arm?
To prevent the new control arm bushings from getting over stressed after installation.
I think he's referring to tightening them before the suspension is loaded. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you don't have to mark the distance if you tighten all the bolts while the suspension is loaded. (In other words, jacked up by the arm)
Thanks!
Good work man. You Make it look fairly easy to viewers but we know it's not. Especially without a lift and bench it's Double the Trouble. Anytime my gloves bust like that I know I'm having a long day and I'm hoping for a tip. Lol...
Thanks for post ... appreciate your comment. The job is easy as it looks ... at least for me. It's all a matter of having power tools, the right specialty tools and prior experience. First time I did a Honda front end suspension job I was scratching my head.
The only issue I had with this video, was that you used a hammer to beat directly on the end of the CV Axle, in MOST cases this would lead to mushrooming the CV axle threads and needing to replace it if you weren't planning to already.
Other then that, good video 👌
What I did is SOP for dislodging corrosion stuck axle shaft splines. I'll.go as far as use a air chisel if the rust is really bad
I paid $2k for My get-going auto technician friend (labor & parts) so he replaced the 2 front leaked shock , and two lower control arms (bushings were shown cracks)...he was saying meh not an easy job order!! After watching this video, I could tell ,,,my technician friend was well deserved whatever the labor $$ was paid there!! It is not an easy job!
Glad it worked out for you but little pricy on the repair.
You don’t have to raise lower control arm before torquing it down? 😊
Nope. The front vertical mount sets the correct height position for the control arm. If there were two horizontal mounts, you'd have to apply load to the arm to compress the strut spring before torquing.
Great video
How do I go about getting the strut back onto the fork if I didn't remove the entire wheel knuckle ? No matter what I do the fork just won't go into the strut, I can't get enough weigh on the lower control arm to create enough clearance.
You have to spread the fork with a chisel using a hammer. Be careful. Don't need to spread that much.
The fork fits in the strut, what I mean is it's like the strut is too long or something, I have to put my entire body weight in the hub to get the fork under the strut to insert it, but then I can't get the bolt on the bottom of the fork to line up with the bottom of the knuckle because it's sitting way too low, idk wtf I did wrong but this is a nightmare to fix. @@hardlymovingpro
Not taking the snap ring off the boot first is that a reason the ball joint pushes back through the knuckle? I put a new ball joint in yesterday and today it's sticking half way up to the point the nut is partially sitting in the control arm slot.
If the diameter of the boot is larger than the joint, the boot won't squeeze through the control arm mounting hole. Some boots are the same diameter and you won't have problems
@@hardlymovingpro I used a ball joint press on the new ball joint until it could not press anymore. The ball joint wasn't flushed and I'm thinking is this the reason the ball joint is sticking half way through the knuckle. It did not have a c-clip. 2012 Acura TL and I am stumped on why it's doing it and I have always worked on my car and never had this issue.
Thanks for the video!
Question, is there a circlip / snap ring on your ball joint?
Depends on the brand. Some come with them, other's don't. It's such a snug fit, the clip is overkill ... IMHO.
Excellent video 👍
Thanks!
I've watched countless videos on this project and you're the first that shows how to properly remove the knuckle/bearing dust shield!! Could I use a different tool and pull on the ring or is it recommended that I use that seal puller? Thanks!!!
You can use the tip of a large screw driver or chisel tool to work the shield off. A few light taps on the screw driver handle will gradually jar the shield loose.
@@hardlymovingpro . Good ideas! Thank you so much!!
You bet!
Fantastic!
Thanks!
Can a 2012 honda Accord suspension kit fit an Acura TL 2012.???
I believe so. You'll have to cross reference the part numbers.
Just curious: how much do I save doing this myself?
Hard to say. Get some repair quotes (with detail written parts) and seeing what the prices you can get the parts for. Rockauto.com is a good source for parts.
How much would all this cost at a shop to be done? I need this all to be done to my 2009 accord
Sorry can't say. Labor rates, time to perform task and cost of parts ... too many variables.
Awesome video!!
Thanks!
when your reinstalling the upper ball joint ; is it a good idea to jack the hub up to " pre load " the upper ball joint when tightening down the castle nut?>
Yes ... which is what I'm doing at the 18:18 time mark ... but video went a little too fast to see it that much.
Hardly Moving Productions
Appreciate the response !
It’s best to preload for the upper and lower ball joints , good to know.
Good video 👌
@@reza_dc2 You bet!
@@hardlymovingpro
one other question , I also have the milwaukee stubby impact 3/8 and the 1/2. Would I be safe with the stubby on the 3rd setting when hitting those castle nuts? I don't want to over power the nut and damage the ball joint.
@@reza_dc2 With castle nuts, apply intial torque until the nut stops moving; then apply final torque (around 35 lbs) to align the nut with the cotter pin stud hole. If not comfortable with the torque generated with the impact tool, apply torque manually.
Hey man I'v kinda hit a brick wall with my repair. I ordered ball joints from Honda gave them my VIN and all that jazz and the ball joints just slide right in the spindle without the use of a press
Gotta be the wrong part
Excellent tutorial!
Would it be the same procedure for a 2013 Accord, balljoint & control arm? I'm thinking I need this done because going over bumps i hear a what sounds like a rattle from the passenger side?
And what about torq specs?
Honda has not changed the basic design of their passenger car front suspension since the 90’s. So yes ... the procedure should be very close for a 2013 design. Don’t have the torque specs.
@@hardlymovingpro Why don't you have torque specs?
Video is more of a guide and not formal instructions. You should own a vehicle specific repair manual with all the torque specs
@@hardlymovingpro Fair point, but If I had a service manual I wouldn't be watching this in the first place.
Awesome video, thanks man!
Thanks!
Excellent video....
I got a 2003 acura tl. would all the procedure be the same ?
I think so.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks
does the spindle really need to be out to replace the ball joint? can’t I just use a ball joint separator?
Impossible without removing the cv axle from the steering knuckle
cool thanks I was wondering because I’m doing a full front end suspension replace, then the rear but the rear looks more easy than the front. thanks again.
@@the_aby_ss_8530 Good luck!
Question: When I am accelerating from a complete stop or making a right turn and accelerating, the front-right wheel feels as if it is vibrating. What could that be?
The strut was tested out for bouncing and it does not seem like that is the issue, I am assuming it may be the ball joint vibrating, but can it be the lower control arm??
ALSO, when the car is hot from a long drive, I can feel and hear as I am driving, noises from the wheel area.. like knocking sounds as I kind of turn the wheel or accelerate.
PLEASE ASSIST ME!
If its a older, high mileage car, it could a combination of worn out suspension components. That is why I prefer to replace all the parts that make up a front suspension as shown in the video. Unfortunately, a regular repair shop would be reluctant to perform all this work together since they profit more by replacing individual parts and have you return later on to have another part replaced. They may argue that replacement of all is not necessary and a waste of money; until you come back arguing your dissatisfaction with their work. They might then recommend another part be replaced which they should have replaced to begin with.
Hello house, please does Acura TL 2007 ball joints pulls like Honda also?
Acura is owned by Honda. The TL is basically an Accord.
Is this suspension assembly same for the coupe and the sedan and are they the same on 2008 to 2012?
I believe they are the same for the coupe and sedan. Also for '08 on up to '12, Honda made the ball joints a little larger but retained the double wish bone suspension setup.
00:49 cringed when he let that caliper drop. Great tutorial on how to use the ball joint tools, though.
Not heavy enough to cause line damage.
How much is job like this cost??🤔 Great video 👍
Good question and don't have an answer. Most shops wouldn't do all this work. They usually provide piece meal repairs so the cost won't seem so high one item at a time.
Can I use this same process for a 2002 Honda Accord sedan 2.3...?
Yes with some minor differences. All or most Honda passenger cars use a double wishbone (upper and lower control arm) suspension system.
Hey, I appreciate the video. I have a 2007 Honda Accord with 152k miles. I drive about 50-60 miles a day. It rides poorly and slams loudly over bumps/potholes from the front and back. It wobbles even on perfect roads, more noticeable at higher speeds. My tires are relatively new. I want to keep this car for a while longer. What do you suggest? Thanks in advance!
Sounds like you need to do some comprehensive suspension work. That would include the suspension struts, lower control arm with new bushings, sway bar links and new ball joints. Trying to isolate a specific suspension part maybe an exercise in futility. Usually when one part fails the other parts that are connected are weak and may also be on their way out.
Sounds like the bushings are bad on ur lower control arm. My 07 acura tl was doing the same thing and the setup of suspension are the same.
That car is gonna drive just like a brand new car,was the customer satisfied???
He was overjoyed! Immediately noticed the difference. And that was a service/repair on only one side! I told him I could do the other side ... but just the strut. But he'd spent so much money on me fixing his 99 Suburban (entire AC system replaced) and his wife's Avalon, he held off on the replacement.
@@hardlymovingpro I figured he was happy all that work you did,great job my man...I have a question about my 2005 Honda Accord 140,000 miles,I'm noticing a WOBBLE at all speeds,at first I thought it was my tires,so I had them rebalanced with an alignment,didn't cure the WOBBLE,today I took it to FIRESTONE,they said I needed front struts and sway bar links and bushings,does that sound correct to you???
Considering the mileage, I would do everything you saw in this video but YOU provide the parts ... otherwise, you'll easily looking at over a $1K job ... for one side! There are suspension replacement kits with most of the parts available from Ebay vendors. I prefer using the vendor Detroit Axle. The WOBBLE could be caused by either a worn out inner or outer tie rod, or lower control arm bushings. This usually happens at low speed acceleration or braking. But since its happening at all speeds, it could simply be a bent/out-of-balance CV axle. I'd focus on the axle first IMHO. That should cost you around $150 to replace. What you saw in this video, for one side, took me around 3.5 hrs. A mechanic with Honda experience should be able to do it in this time frame. If they argue for more time, tell them to watch the video as a tutorial.
@@hardlymovingpro LOL,thanks a lot man,much appreciated,keep those videos coming,there very informative...
No problem. My pleasure and good luck.
I did the same except my abs was so stuck I had to drill it out after I broke it lol oooo and I had a bolt that was stuck In a bushing on the lower control arm and I had to cut off with Sawzall what a pain
I feel your pain. Had it happen to me with the lower control arm bolt. Had to cut it off. Didn't try to remove the ABS line. I just worked on the steering knuckle close to the car with the line attached.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for the videos 👍
Is there any way I can schedule an appointment with you? I’m in Memphis. I have a 99 Acura and I want to get a lot of my front end replaced.
Sure. Send me an email.
Did you find the ball joints were worn or loose? I did this on my 08 with 170k and everything still seems tight. Both ball joints and tie rods are tight with no play. Struts even responsive. Wheel bearings are getting though.
Maybe a little bit of both. Customer was complaining about how the suspension just didn't feel like when the car was new. Told him I could make it feel like new by replacing everything ... except the tie rods. Since the lower ball joints are inexpensive and easy for me to replace, it wasn't a big deal for me to replace them with the new lower control arms. Don't believe the upper control arms and ball joints are under a lot of stress and perhaps they can be avoided for replacement. But again, the upper control arms with new ball joints were not that expensive. I can say that he was extremely happy after I did the job...that he didn't realize how bad these suspension components had become until after they were replaced and drove the car. Honda suspensions are finicky when compared to Toyotas. But when the suspension components are all in good working condition, they out perform Toyotas. Also, I don't like customer "come backs" where they say things like "well ... its a better but not quite what I expected" or "the rides a little smoother except when I hit big bumps in the road" or "there's a slight delay in the steering response" or "there's a squeaking noise when I make a right hand turn and hit a bump", .... etc.
Any tips for removing the speed sensor? I feel like i may break it
You can apply penetrating oil to let it soak into the contact points. Let it sit overnight and then try to pull it out the next day.
Just the vids i was looking for and the cv axle...nice walk through.....i think i need to bring my acura to you with the parts...you on the west coast?...haha seriously...
Thanks for your comments. Live near Memphis, TN
No problem...This is going to help out a lot...wish me luck when i tackle it...hope i can breeze through it like you did....thanks for listing the parts and tools links...good job man.
@@groy543 No problem and good luck!
at the beginning you said replace the strut mount, but never got to see
I remember. The upper mount wasn't worn out and a simple part.
Hardly Moving Productions i have one question, does 03-07 accord and 04-08 tsx and tl use the same ball joint?
What adaptors did you use to install the lower ball joint. I am stuck on my 11 accord. I have tried autozone and oreilly tool rental and pieces dont work for me.
I provided a link to the ball joint adapter tool in the Show More section of this video
Hardly Moving Productions but to install the joint do i just need the press you provided or do i need the OTC adaptors?
The kit works with the press tool to push out the old and press on the new. It's all shown in the video
@@hardlymovingpro when I click on the link in the description, it doesn't look the same as the receiver you used. Can you confirm, please? I am also having trouble finding the right receiver to taking it off. Thank you!
@@stephenfloyd315 The newer Honda ball joints are larger. Don't know if there's a kit provider. You maybe able to use a universal adapter with a cut out.
Do these come as one assembly?
Nope ... they're all individual components that work together.
Great job! Which c press adapters did you use?
Thanks! They're Honda specific ball joint press adapters. From 2008 on up, Honda increased the size/diameter of their ball joints. I used the earlier model adapters that worked somewhat but had to bang out the remainder of the ball joint. Haven't been able to find the larger adapter. You can possibly make your own. Just get a standard ball joint removal adapter and make cut outs so the adapter can fit inside the steering knuckle.
Does anybody know where I can find the lower ball joint adapter for the 8th gen that is reasonably priced. I ordered the powerbuilt kit number 76 and the adapter is not big enough to receive the ball joint any advice would be great I've been searching online everywhere
You can use the old version to partially get the ball joint out; then hammer the remaining out. I was thinking about making my own by getting the right diameter tube and making a cut out to get it to fit.
what kit did he use
One should replace the axle nut every time according to the manufacturer
Do you mean removal or replacement?
Hardly Moving Productions replacement because bending the metal and indenting the nut weakens it. Though I have seen many people just reuse it. I realized I had a typo before sorry
@@Rodecpt0 For peace of mind, if you want to replace it, by all means, replace it. Unless the threads have been corrupted by corrosion, I see no need except to enrich the dealerships.
Hardly Moving Productions I get it. I have just purchased two hub nuts which cost around $30. Could have been a meal at a restaurant
You live in Florida?
Memphis, TN
HardlyMoving Productions thanks brother nice job I need mechanic like you!👍🏼
Thanks for your support!
You should not tight everything with a power impact tool because a lot of times the fasteners will be over tighten or under tighten.
I'd tend to agree if you're not a professional mechanic.
@@hardlymovingpro hahaha I am a pro too and fix a lot of used car and when I remove 10mm bolts used for the brake bracket and ABS they often snap at he head because ''pro mechanic'' used impact on high torque settings when they put em back in...
@@flrpower5628 Which is why, as a pro, you develop a "feel" for the right amount of torque to be applied using an impact tool. If the nut or bolt requires too long a time to come loose with the gun, I apply penetrating oil and go into manual mode doing 1/4" tightening and loosening movements. Once there's good movement on the nut or bolt, I switch back to electric mode. If you're new to using impact tools of different torque ratings and settings, it will take time gaining confidence in using these tools with the right about of torque to be applied. Once you have this confidence, these tools become indispensable since they are tremendous time and effort savers. 10 mm bolts and nuts, used as fasteners, are not as critical as 10 mm bolts, for example, holding on a water pump; that I apply the final torque manually using a 1/4" socket wrench since I do not want to exceed over 7 lbs of torque and need to apply torque gradually and evenly. I rarely use a 1/2" impact drive on anything smaller than 12 mm; but in this video I did. I mostly use either a 3/8" electric ratchet or 3/8" 12V impact gun. The nut or bolt will not shear off unless you keep your finger on the trigger too long.
@@hardlymovingpro It's all about details. Speed is one thing but thoroughness is king. I also noticed that just on the lower bolt fork to lower control arm, that you torqued the bolt without the suspension being compressed. This will prematurely wear that brand new bushing... But you're a pro too so all is good. lol
@@flrpower5628 Perhaps you are correct ... but tell that to the pros on a flat rate / commission pay system that thoroughness is king. And tell that to the auto manufacturers who short change the techs on the max allocated repair time for a warranty repair. Oh ... and there's no compensation for diagnostic time for warranty work dealing with mechanical issues. It's unfortunate, but our current system rewards speed and it's been that way for the last 30 years ... which explains why so many techs burn out and there's a shortage of techs coming out of votech schools. All the tech has to or wants to worry about is customer "come backs" during the warranty period so they don't have to revisit the work for free.
The best repair videos are the ones that include lots of grunting noise, breathing noise and banging noise. None of that unnecessary bs.
Thanks and appreciated your comments and post!
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Great video.
Thanks!