Wish YT would have shown this when I was searching last week. Ended buying the whole arm. At least I know what to do when I tackle the job on the other side in a couple of weeks.
This idea for sure will be successfully worked on wheel bearing too, if selecting the right receiver & pusher parts .Thanks so much to show us a real example .
You can buy threaded rod almost any where Home Depot Amazon True value most Mom & Pop hardware stores will have Threaded rods for sale in common size thread pitch 1/4 3/8 & 1/2 - 13 threaded rod then cut to length. Great Video I to bought another set of control arm, but I kept my old set. Will definitely use this method with the bushings I could install.
Great video. Unfortunately up north too much rust on the bushing metal ring. So we had to pull entire arm off and use family press. Thanks for your assistance.
5:45 - “Probably the HARDEST thing to find. Is a, I believe it’s an 8 inch, but maybe it’s 9 inch”. Well folks… believe it or not but that is the very last thing my Tinder date said to me right after she invited me up to her apartment last night… and then I ran out as fast as I can!!! 😂😂😂
Jason, living its entire life in the arid desert climate of Southern California helps considerably as there is very little to no rust. That said, the rust-belt-wrenches know all too well the benefits of soaking parts in a quality penetrating oil and heat when servicing their cars. When I lived in the mid-west I would soak such parts in Liquid Wrench for several days before doing the work, which helped a lot. Good luck to you rust-belt DIYers on this simplified method. The ride is noticeably better!
Very nice DIY compliance bushing tool. Good job! I did the bushing with Schley Products 68100 (cost around $150), which was based on the same idea. For rust belt cars, use a C-clamp ball joint press will save the threads of the central bolt, especially during removal.
Great video. Envy you guys where cars don't get a steady diet of salt. Undoing fastener on my '07, especially suspension components, is always a struggle.
I remember those days in the rust belt well. Always a challenge. Sawzall and torch are your buddy in those cases. If your ride is clunky and its not the strut, this is likely the solution. Inexpensive as well and would definitely spend the ~$30 for the Honda bushing as they will last.
Bought everything minus the pipe cover and socket as I used my ball joint remover cups which fit same and did not work for me. Kept on bending the square spacers and galvanized bolt even bent
Hi GR, suggest a hardened bolt grade 5 or even 8 as there is lots of tension required. Also, suggest soaking the bushing perimeter in penetrating fluid repeatedly in advance to loosen rust, etc. Else, heat will be your friend to help.
Components and Sources: 2 1/8" Job Smart Socket from Tractor Supply: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/jobsmart-3-4i-in-drive-2-1-8-in-socket?cm_vc=-10005 3 inch galvanized pipe cap which you will need to drill a ~5/8" hole in the dead center (not the one I used but one found on Amazon): www.amazon.com/Cap-NPT-Galvanized-Malleable-Iron/dp/B01LWE75CX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=M87OVJNDR9RB&keywords=3%2Bin%2Bgalvanized%2Bpipe%2Bcap&qid=1654214515&sprefix=3%2Bin%2Bgalvanized%2B%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3&th=1 1 Grade 5 or 8 bolt: 8" x 1/2" coarse thread 2 Grade 5 or 8 nuts: 1/2" with matching coarse thread 6-8 matching Grade 5 or 8 washers 2-3 Square Bearing Plates with 1/2" bolt hole, like these from Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-BP-3-in-x-3-in-Bearing-Plate-with-1-2-in-Bolt-Dia-BP-1-2-3/204842277
@PlayaBluffHotelBocas The process would be the same however, I am not sure of the size of the Odyssey bushing, so can't confirm fitment of the socket and pipe cap I used. Suggest you do what I did, buy a bushing (even if a cheap one at a local auto parts store, which can return if not used) and use it for sizing a socket for pushing which catches the exterior ring of the bushing but just a bit smaller in diameter so it can push the bushing out from the control arm.
You certainly can, if you have one or use the tool loaner program at your local auto parts retailer. I don't have one and for a lot less money made it myself. Either way, the job is done and this method leaves the control arm in the car which is less work in the long run.
@@johnh9507 Yes they do, however all the LOANER sets I looked at from multiple parts stores didn't have the right size for pressing out the bushing. So I went this route.
@@galco9836 i got two sets, one with the c clamp and another with more cups, i found one with within .005 and put a hose clamp around it and put the the new bushing in it to help like another hand, i did the job for $8 with moog blue yellow box bushings from ebay
@@johnh9507 Please post details on the kit you used on the compliance bushing as that would help others. Have you done the lower ball joints? Those require a special designed cup as well. Thx
Agree most remove the entire control arm but it's more work and you put at risk upper and lower ball joints, especially their boots in the extraction process. Don't ask how I know, luckily Honda sells replacement boots for the long lasting original, high priced and better ball joints. This method is faster, even if it's awkward sitting on your garage floor. Cheers! Galco
@@galco9836 makes total sense. the Acura I just did was not fun, lower ball joint replacement and my press kit didn't fit or the compliance bushing so luckily my mechanic lives behind the and pressed out the ball joint and I just put a new control arm out but after your method I think I'll do the arm I took out and sell it. Yeah, not having a lift is a real pain for us diy
If you take out the entire lower control arm, then you would need a bench press to hold on to it while you pry the thing out....in situ the car is holding it for you....you can do the same with pressing out the ball joint and the bearing...
waow. that was Great. I need to change my compliance bushings as well and like to make a set up like yours . I can't find the 3 inch galvanized pipe cap. Where can I buy one at . Any help will be appreciated.Thank you pal.
@@truejey7475got mine at tractor supply. You need a grade 5 or 8 for strength. Suggest trying local better hardware stores near you. Min length of 8 inch is needed. All thread is also an option.
That was a pretty clever setup! You saved yourself hundreds of dollars. Good job, and thanks for sharing!
Wish YT would have shown this when I was searching last week. Ended buying the whole arm. At least I know what to do when I tackle the job on the other side in a couple of weeks.
This idea for sure will be successfully worked on wheel bearing too, if selecting the right
receiver & pusher parts .Thanks so much to show us a real example .
You are welcome
You can buy threaded rod almost any where Home Depot Amazon True value most Mom & Pop hardware stores will have Threaded rods for sale in common size thread pitch 1/4 3/8 & 1/2 - 13 threaded rod then cut to length. Great Video I to bought another set of control arm, but I kept my old set. Will definitely use this method with the bushings I could install.
nice idea ,good job without removing the ball joint...Thanks for your video.
You are welcome
Great video. Unfortunately up north too much rust on the bushing metal ring. So we had to pull entire arm off and use family press. Thanks for your assistance.
BTDT, glad if video was helpful.
When installing the new unit, I added a hose clamp around the socket and bushing to keep them aligned.
I have found C clamps very helpful to nudge suspension components into place.
5:45 - “Probably the HARDEST thing to find. Is a, I believe it’s an 8 inch, but maybe it’s 9 inch”. Well folks… believe it or not but that is the very last thing my Tinder date said to me right after she invited me up to her apartment last night… and then I ran out as fast as I can!!! 😂😂😂
u r lucky to have this bushing puled out by this device i had to exert a 3t pressure on my hydralic press
Jason, living its entire life in the arid desert climate of Southern California helps considerably as there is very little to no rust. That said, the rust-belt-wrenches know all too well the benefits of soaking parts in a quality penetrating oil and heat when servicing their cars. When I lived in the mid-west I would soak such parts in Liquid Wrench for several days before doing the work, which helped a lot. Good luck to you rust-belt DIYers on this simplified method. The ride is noticeably better!
Very nice DIY compliance bushing tool. Good job! I did the bushing with Schley Products 68100 (cost around $150), which was based on the same idea. For rust belt cars, use a C-clamp ball joint press will save the threads of the central bolt, especially during removal.
TY. I searched for the Schely 68100 everywhere and unable to find one, even used, it has been discontinued. So had to make my own for about $40-$45.
I was thinking about just using a ball joint press for the whole job. I wonder if the kit I use has the correctly sized cup?
@@travisbarrow3408 my harbor freight did not. Had the right press cup but not receiving
@@shantor100 You can use one of the cups in your ball joint press kit...
@@trankt54155won’t work for removal
Great video. Envy you guys where cars don't get a steady diet of salt. Undoing fastener on my '07, especially suspension components, is always a struggle.
I remember those days in the rust belt well. Always a challenge. Sawzall and torch are your buddy in those cases. If your ride is clunky and its not the strut, this is likely the solution. Inexpensive as well and would definitely spend the ~$30 for the Honda bushing as they will last.
That looked so easy. I had an impact on it and a breaker bar as well. I had to destroy the center and then cut two slits to punch it out.
Bought everything minus the pipe cover and socket as I used my ball joint remover cups which fit same and did not work for me. Kept on bending the square spacers and galvanized bolt even bent
Hi GR, suggest a hardened bolt grade 5 or even 8 as there is lots of tension required. Also, suggest soaking the bushing perimeter in penetrating fluid repeatedly in advance to loosen rust, etc. Else, heat will be your friend to help.
Nice clean job
Thank you! Cheers!
jesus this is brilliant
;-)
Im pretty sure its easier to buy new arms with the bushings pressed in
Awesome vid! Need one of those.
Components and Sources:
2 1/8" Job Smart Socket from Tractor Supply: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/jobsmart-3-4i-in-drive-2-1-8-in-socket?cm_vc=-10005
3 inch galvanized pipe cap which you will need to drill a ~5/8" hole in the dead center (not the one I used but one found on Amazon):
www.amazon.com/Cap-NPT-Galvanized-Malleable-Iron/dp/B01LWE75CX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=M87OVJNDR9RB&keywords=3%2Bin%2Bgalvanized%2Bpipe%2Bcap&qid=1654214515&sprefix=3%2Bin%2Bgalvanized%2B%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3&th=1
1 Grade 5 or 8 bolt: 8" x 1/2" coarse thread
2 Grade 5 or 8 nuts: 1/2" with matching coarse thread
6-8 matching Grade 5 or 8 washers
2-3 Square Bearing Plates with 1/2" bolt hole, like these from Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-BP-3-in-x-3-in-Bearing-Plate-with-1-2-in-Bolt-Dia-BP-1-2-3/204842277
@PlayaBluffHotelBocas The process would be the same however, I am not sure of the size of the Odyssey bushing, so can't confirm fitment of the socket and pipe cap I used. Suggest you do what I did, buy a bushing (even if a cheap one at a local auto parts store, which can return if not used) and use it for sizing a socket for pushing which catches the exterior ring of the bushing but just a bit smaller in diameter so it can push the bushing out from the control arm.
Would a hose clamp on the socket and bushing keep them aligned when pressing back in?
That's a clever idea and would likely help if one is struggling with alignment, especially when you're laying on your garage floor!
This is brilliant!
I am doing the same thing on my 2005 Acura TL...
Since they are basically the same car this should work. Please leave a comment on how it goes for your Acura TL. Great cars BTW.
Why not just use the socket and pipe cap with a ball joint replacement removal tool same sanario yes?
You certainly can, if you have one or use the tool loaner program at your local auto parts retailer. I don't have one and for a lot less money made it myself. Either way, the job is done and this method leaves the control arm in the car which is less work in the long run.
The clamp isn't wide enough when you start to add things
Yes, you can do that if you have the balljoint set with the giant C clamp and the cups..
If not then get a full-thread grade 8 bolt and save all the washers....
Shux, is that the oil filter?.......thats a weird place to have it.
Yep
How do we find the bolt?
Tractor Supply or Home Depot as I recall
Could you post some links to the components you used, or comparable? Or at least spell them out?
All components and their sources are discussed at 5.12 into the video and I've added details in description of the video above.
autozone ball joint tools, has different size cups, very easy
@@johnh9507 Yes they do, however all the LOANER sets I looked at from multiple parts stores didn't have the right size for pressing out the bushing. So I went this route.
@@galco9836 i got two sets, one with the c clamp and another with more cups, i found one with within .005 and put a hose clamp around it and put the the new bushing in it to help like another hand, i did the job for $8 with moog blue yellow box bushings from ebay
@@johnh9507 Please post details on the kit you used on the compliance bushing as that would help others. Have you done the lower ball joints? Those require a special designed cup as well. Thx
I appreciate you doing it on the car but why not just take the control arm out. Not that bad a job
Agree most remove the entire control arm but it's more work and you put at risk upper and lower ball joints, especially their boots in the extraction process. Don't ask how I know, luckily Honda sells replacement boots for the long lasting original, high priced and better ball joints. This method is faster, even if it's awkward sitting on your garage floor. Cheers! Galco
@@galco9836 makes total sense. the Acura I just did was not fun, lower ball joint replacement and my press kit didn't fit or the compliance bushing so luckily my mechanic lives behind the and pressed out the ball joint and I just put a new control arm out but after your method I think I'll do the arm I took out and sell it. Yeah, not having a lift is a real pain for us diy
Man that tape measure has seen some life huh
If you take out the entire lower control arm, then you would need a bench press to hold on to it while you pry the thing out....in situ the car is holding it for you....you can do the same with pressing out the ball joint and the bearing...
waow. that was Great. I need to change my compliance bushings as well and like to make a set up like yours . I can't find the 3 inch galvanized pipe cap. Where can I buy one at . Any help will be appreciated.Thank you pal.
Glad its helpful. Here's a link to a 3inch galvanized pipe cap
3" Galvanized Cap a.co/d/do9wCnV
hey thanks bro for your reply. Do you know where I cab buy that big bolt at. or a link? that's the only think I need. Thank you buddy.
@@truejey7475got mine at tractor supply. You need a grade 5 or 8 for strength. Suggest trying local better hardware stores near you. Min length of 8 inch is needed. All thread is also an option.