Fixing a slow leak through fibreglass shell, but mostly heater stuff. Lifeboat Conversion Ep73 [4K]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2024
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EPISODE 73
As if I didn't have enough to do, I noticed damp/mildew inside one of the storage cubby holes. So, I decided to fix both the potential causes. And then got on with the endless Refleks heater installation
Stainless steel 100mm flue liner
Dickinson barometric damper
All metal 8mm bulb primer
Stainless steel 90deg turn valve
Stainless steel tank breather
Generic water separator/fuel filter
8mm ID nitrile fuel hose
Titanium Pro High Temperature Sealant +1500C.
2mm Viton rubber sheet
1mm stainless steel mirror sheet
Model: NME A/S (Husnes, Norway) 7.5m TELB
Engine: Bukh DV48 turbo diesel
Feel free to ask any questions in the comments!
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Thanks to vanguardstorag... for warehousing facilities.
![Replacing & fitting a refurbed turbocharger to a Bukh DV48 engine. Lifeboat Conversion Ep56 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/X27AIE5N7n4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Manual freshwater pump - a first try for a drinking water assembly. Lifeboat Conversion Ep69 [4K]](/img/n.gif)
mate, those handle things next to the mirror are so off that you can sell it as an art piece. Keep up the good work, can't wait to see what you end up with
Love the time lapses in this video, a fantastic opportunity to see the clouds running across the sky.
Can't wait to see what we get next time!
You need to install a pa system that plays the “Alan” shout. 😂
I thing a Airthings sensor to monitor CO2 would be a cool addition as well. It can also detect particles in the air and some other stuff.
Really look forward to these videos. Keep up the great work!
Cheers
Have you thought about piping in a car heater core to engine's cooling system? Seems like a waste to send all that heat into the ocean...
It's been suggested somewhere upward of a thousand times... sadly not a go-er due to space, and the ability to switch it off without heating the engine bay.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I think you’d find the exhaust water only mildly warm and not worth all this work. Love the environment but an extra litre of fuel is easy and cheaper.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals thanks for taking the time to reply anyway!
@@barney2001 the engine should have a thermostat, so it can operate at about 80 degrees, you fit the heater matrix before the thermostat, but again depends if its worth the time to do it.
The advantages would be that it would operate on the rough water.
@@barney2001 most boat engines have coolant inside at an opalerating temperature of 80-90 degrees, which is then cooled through a seawater-fed heat exchanger. Yes, the seawater gets only mildly heated, but the coolant is hot enough for a heater core.
Looks better then I thought it would great work. Looks like it should work like a charm when it heats up.
I'll take that as a compliment!
3:00 I highly recommend a dedicated spot/ holder for the silicone cap as to not lose it. Tying it down like a sink plug or just having a couple spares should work too.
Also a reminder near the heater to remove the cap when operating the heater seems like a good Idea to me.
6:47 In the video it seems like you forgot the sealant on the second bolt of the filter mount
Good idea.
Nope I sealed both - just cut it out in the edit.
11:24 The way you quickly move your hand back to your head here looks like you wanted to get a good taste test on the sealant 🤣. Love the updates. Can't wait to see Alan in his complete seaworthy state soon.
We're all allowed our vices.
I reckon the weight of the full fuel tank will cause it to wobble and sag in the rubber straps, both fore-aft but also in towards the middle of Alan.
Imagine short steep waves that you beat into or rolly polly beam sea.
You're likely right. A pair of mini ratchet straps probably better.
It's rare for me to say I'm glad someone's gotten the flu..e 😂
" Mercifully Swift.!" Me likey.!
I think most of what you have done is very successful, especially the initial cleanup and preparation, and most installations are creative and excellently performed, however the chimney looks flimsy and potentially meltable - I think other people following the example might fail and cause a fire. Inland waterways boat safety scheme (BSS) certificate standards basically specify a solid flue for wood burners at least, and the enormous diesel heater you have installed might be the same. I get the same impression about the diesel tank rubber hoses from an earlier video - I was told that I should have solid metal connecto
I take your note of caution in the manner it's intended, but the chimney is stronger than the bought single or double skin (very thin) stainless steel through-roof cowls. And it's made using extra high temperature epoxy resins, glassfibre lagging, and a steel liner.
The flue itself is stainless steel, so won't melt, and it's about the same thickness as the stainless flues components sold by Refleks, Dickinson etc. Most sell (expensive, of course!) guards so their flues aren't damaged by falls or impacts.
The chimney looks great, sorry my terminology is incorrect here - I meant the flue looks flimsy. I took an aluminium foil tube (painted black on the outside) from a cheap diesel heater and used it as chimney for a mini wood burner. The tube caught fire, and that was probably because the paint heated up. I'm sure the flue you bought was built for the intended purpose however I would keep an eye on it anyway, ideally with arduino temperature and infra red sensors - If they could be powered like carbon monoxide alarms or wireless computer keyboards and have batteries that last several years.
I think the rubber strap idea for the fuel tank is a bad idea. When the tank is full of diesel it will be an awful lot heavier and you have nothing to stop it moving from side to side.
Not too sure about those two re-used brackets you fitted for the exhaust or why you positioned them where you did. Hate those DIY hose clips too and personally think they are terrible, especially if not clamped to a pipe. Maybe an aluminium bracket of sorts may be better suited...?
Hope you ok and stay safe....
You may be right
Oh no, there goes the submarine idea lol.
Alex, apologies if you already have content on this question:
How did you/how does one get involved in Arctic/Antarctic expeditions like the ones you do?
If someone who has never been on one wanted to "break into" it, where would you tell them to start?
There's no formula I'm afraid - many try and fail. You need to have a business angle, not just the expedition skills.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals whats your business angle? insuring your life and letting you family collect the money when this boat eventually sinks
*your. Please do continue, Mr Bojangles! :)
Alex, I'm not sure if you've dealt with this yet, however a base board under the fuel tank to provide some protection from the hooks in the bungee straps my be a good idea, I suspect they will rub on the bottom when underway and the tank is filled.
Yeah I'm adding another ledge underneath to take the weight.
I've generally found the best way to fix that flexible steel flue to solid pipe is to drill 3 or 4 holes and use stainless steel screws and then wrap the whole join in aluminium tape. Mine are all land based though. You've also put quite a constriction in the flue where you've put slots in it and folded it in. I've tried this and, well, it had no strength and leaked like mad, mostly at the ends of the slots. A reducer/adaptor might have been a better job. Google stainless steel flue pipe reducer. To be honest, that flexible stuff is just a pain, have you gone with it to absorb motion or was solid pipe not available?
Cheers Garrett. I'll have an experiment. Solid pipe is available, but not to match the angles and curves I need. It would mean twice the junctions.
If a reducer isn't available, I know it's a funny pipe size and you're short on time. A stiffener on the inside of the pipe you've cut the slots in might work. That kind of flexible pipe needs a friction fit of 2 or 3 inches, with sealant, to give a solid connection. The top end looked like quite a loose fit so could be stuffed with glass fibre followed by a layer of sealant to keep it in place. We usually use fireseal fire cement. It's cheap and goes off like concrete when heated. Does stink as it cures though.
The exterior vent connection section is the outer sleeve.? Well if water does come in it. It will go in both The cabin and the heater. Instead of just the heater.
That very last bit made me curious; is there a standard for colour coding surfaces? Like blue for safe to walk on, orange for structural handholds, yellow for can hold your weight but might be very slippery etc? I feel like in the heat of the moment that might save you or your equipment, but I've never expeditioned any further than an all-inclusive hotel on the coast of Greece, so I'm no expert
Others may do so, but I tend to just have a few heavy duty stickers that shout 'NOT A STEP!'
I grew up in the land of paraffin heaters, never heard of diesel heaters.
Will you being running a several day full function test of your systems such as diesel heater, potable water... before you start your grand voyage?
Indeed. The UK coast section of the trip will give tons of opportunity to tweak things.
Another video yay!
AMAZINGNES!!!
I would replace the rubber straps on the tank, with metal ones padded with robber
Yeah - or ratchet straps.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals faster and cheaper,
the metal ones you can shape, so the tank will be snug, but without squeeze.
Excellent video. I love your thought process about the details. Not always successful but very thoughtful and what more can a person aspire to? I have a slight concern about the positioning of the bulb primer. Having experience with using them on small outboards, the ones I have require the outlet to be at the top. I know, I know, but gravity does play a role. Hopefully you have a vastly superior one without this failure mode. Worth trying first anywho.
Fingers crossed the seal is ok. I'll know pretty quickly if not. Could also use an o clip instead of the clamp they come with.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Sorry, the problem is that the primer bulb will only pump liquid when the outlet is above the inlet. Nothing to do with the clamps.
Oh! Well I'll find out soon.
Finally sparks again … are you using the grinder to trim your hair as well? No more comments from my peanut gallery. Well done!
I buzz it off in the Arctic for practicality reasons. It'll be back!
Where is Alan going….as in destination ultimately, other than back to a safe harbor? I’m seeing cold weather and dangerous seas in its future?
Check out the latest episodes. Up to Scotland, then Norway.
I think the sealant there might have been unnecessary seeing as there's a giant hole in the flue
Right, but I'd rather the air flows through the damper door, which I can control.
If I was doing this, I would have the angled anti capsize bypass filter screw cap bedded with non-rotating anti-slip screws. When used with flexile fittings, the torque required is greatly decreased. If anyone can offer a better solution, please do ...
You're going to have so many melting or off-gassing, highly heated rubber/plastic/silicone compounds when you put everything to work. I think it would behoove you to actually start using and testing these things before you "hit the road" so to speak :).
I can't disagree with a suggestion to test, but I feel your warning is a little doom-laden. I'm very careful with material selection, and the rubbers and silicones I use near heat are pre-cured so they have a heat rating - and shouldn't off gas when heated.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Perhaps doom-laden. Can't help but to think you'll be enclosed in an plastic capsule filled with invisible, toxic doom. 😂It would really help me if you actually tested these things so I can see how easy it is to just crack a window open - or not. 😮😂
In the U.S.A we call those metal hose clamps. But in the U.S.A the screw part is normally already attached to it.
Yes - we do too - the ready made ones. Jubilee clips is a brand I think.
😃👍
No baffle system for diesel heater fuel tank?
I'm not sure they do baffle balls small enough, and foam goes manky
Are all the wall stuff attached with screws? How thick is the internal shell? Can a wall mounted handle support a person's weight?
What are you doing to prevent falling hands grabbing onto anything at rough seas? There a lot of sharp corners
No - anything that needs to take a human weight is bolted with substantial backing plates or thick washers. Only minor things are screwed in. The inner shell is about 5mm.
With all due respect the fuel primer bulb you installed is crap and will fail within 1-2 years. The rubber will develop cracks above the metal bands and it will tear. I will happily ship you a new pair of genuine Yamaha fuel bulbs that are much better quality and will eliminate the potential of diesel fuel spilling in the compartment. Just give me an address I can ship it to.
Firstly - thank you. Feel free to contact via website, Twitter, IG etc.
This model had 4.6/5 reviews and seems much better than the original, but perhaps the Yamaha uses another grade of rubber? Perishing seems to be most common when left out in the sun connected to outboard motors.
Message sent via website.
The most Complex Reflex installation i have ever seen and not the best. I would recommend to redo it. I did some by my self and i am using it daily in Wintertime.
The Reflex by it self never is to be going so hot you are think, but ok, security is always good. But this Chimney construction and the Fueltank is too complex. There are Fueltanks out of the box for Dieselhaters like Webasto or Planar, with all you need, also you can fasten it good to the Wall and they are cheap. The Filtersystem is great, dirty Fuel is always a mess. I am filling the Tank always through an Filter to do not have the Dirt in the Tank.
They Chimney is also too Complex, the riffeled Tube is bad, the soot will stick on them. All the connections not really good, why not use the correct size of tube. I am using 1,5mm thick Steel in the correct Size an welded together with only one 90° bent direct at the Oven. So it is easy to clean. If you need to clean your's you would have big Problems with all the bents and the glued Connections. And i bet my one was much cheaper, gives better heat, it's more secure and makes a better Flow.
Test your's and think about to redo it better.
I'll put you down as 'undecided' then
There is this British tinkerer posting videos on TH-cam he has been designing omnidirectional wind turbines on his channel that look quite promising.
youtube.com/@RobertMurraySmith