Its not as bad as everyone says... Modern oil injected 2strokes (with a seperate oil pump) can engine break all day. Most engines wont seize from a little engine break. Only with very lean mixture and alot of it a negative effect can happen.
PLEASE READ!! Hey Naska, Tutto bene? I wanted to say before anything that i lobe your videos and they seem very helpful, im a Motard rider in Spain and I wanted to share my opinion in addition to your front braking video, I think theres something missing due to the the front braking system!! Specially at 200km/h ITS VERY IMPORTANT to use the back brake right before the front brake in hard braking to lower the back part (suspension) of the bike so the front doesn’t flip over and like this you make the level of inertia much more placed in the center!! I hope its helpful! PD: it would be good if you haven’t made it yet, to do a VIDEO ABOUT BACK BRAKING! Take care! From MÁLAGA!❤️
Gonna be honest, not even my professors in my AutoTronics major explained this topic the way you did , It took us 3 whole lectures and 2 assignments , with you just one video ! Thanks Man !
Alberto, you're not explaining engine braking in this video. As Jason Fenske explains on his TH-cam video titled "Is It Bad To Engine Brake With A Manual Transmission?", it is not compressing the engine that causes engine braking, as that compression goes into the power stroke, which naturally more than compensates for any loss of power due to compression. That of course is not the case in your demonstration of pushing a motorcycle in gear with the engine off. At about the 4 minute mark you explained that when you let off of the throttle the inertia of the rear wheel would like to keep the vehicle at the same speed, keeping the engine's RPMs up. Then at 5:21 you state "Where does it take the energy to stay at 5,000 RPM? It takes it from the wheels. So, sucking energy from the wheels, the engine is actually braking them. So, it is acting like a brake, and this is why it's called engine braking." You are claiming that the rear wheel speed wants the engine to remain at 5000 RPMs and the engine is taking energy from the rear wheel to rev closer to that speed. That's not defining engine braking. Let's leave this one to an engineer to explain. I'll quote Jason verbatim from the video I mentioned above: "You let your foot off the throttle, and so that throttle valve closes and now you have a vacuum between that throttle valve and your engine. Your engine is trying to pull in air, but the throttle is closed so it's hard for it to pull in that air and that's what's slowing you down. A lot of people say it's the compression that's going to be slowing you down in these gasoline engines and that's not the case, because as that piston compresses up, it does pressurize that air, yes, and it does take work to do that, but that work immediately goes right back into pressing that piston back down. Very little of it is actually lost to heat in that transaction because engines are smooth running machines; they're not supposed to lose heat in that scenario. So a lot of the energy from compression just goes right back into pushing the piston back down. The real engine braking in gasoline engines comes from that throttle valve being closed and trying to pull that vacuum." To put it succinctly, engine braking is the engine slowing down due to the vacuum created by the almost completely closed throttle valves and the slower engine speed in turn slows down the rotational speed of the drive wheel; it is not the drive wheel slowing down the engine. I hope you consider re-doing this video as you don't seem like the type of guy that wants to propagate inaccurate information. It seems that you genuinely want to help others better understand how things work.
I have a small bike, 4 stroked 180cc engine. Unknowingly I do the same thing while I'm riding my bike. I also thought that engine brake might consume more fuel. But you have given me a clearity that fuel consumption will remain same while we apply engine brake. Thank you.
Another great video LOVE the advice (8:21) about changing the engine braking by raising the level of engine braking for better cornering you continue to bless us with these inside tricks really appreciate it!!!!!!!!
Excellent video. I drive a scooter (Yamaha Ray ZR) since 2016. In December 2019 I bought MT15 and after that I taught myself how to ride a bike. I use this engine braking a lot on daily basis. But I was worried about the engine, wondering if it is bad for the engine to use engine braking for slowing down. And now I am relaxed after watching your video. Thanks for all the nice tips!
I love you r videos. They are very informative. Can you please make a video on how to properly break in a new motorcycle engine? I saw many videos, but they are all confusing. Please, for all the beginner riders or people who are trying their hands on motorcycles. Love from India.
Great video. I don’t know it moterbikes are different but you also forgot to add that an engine brake uses the engine as well to slow itself down as the engine is just a big air pump. And it uses the engines as an air pump with a lack of spark and petrol to help it slow itself down.
Afwan M The front brake is still FAR more powerful. This is always your main brake, and the engine can help slow down a bit more, or scrub of corner speed as you’re turning in.
Also to develop on @D.B. 's remark, when a motorcycle slows down the front tyre compresses while the rear tyre decompresses in a sort of deceleration squat. On motorcycle racing videos you can see the rear tyre actually lifting from the ground, which means that all the engine braking is doing is slowing down the power train until it matches idle engine speed, at which point more fuel will be injected to keep the engine from stalling. Here's a good example from God Marquez: th-cam.com/video/tpI2S3GQ-gA/w-d-xo.html
@@Showmetheevidence- thank you sir, i do likely 50% 50%, but when i watch another vlog the engine brake too much is not good for the engine especial for gearbox. Is that true ? Actually Naska Videos help me alot, i didnt copy him just for my guidance 😁
@@afwanm4156 Daniel gave you the correct answer. If you use zero front brake, and zero rear brake, then you are 100% engine braking. If you use 100% front brake (and not flipped), you are using 0% engine brake. It is a continuum.
@@DumbledoreMcCracken Actually that's not exactly correct, my point on the 'engine braking interacting with the driveshaft' was only for when the rear wheel was in the air from extreme braking. What's important to be aware of is to the fact that the rear wheel decompresses under deceleration, reducing it's potential non-slip braking, which will be a combination of both engine braking and actual rear brake. To answer @Afwan M, on controlled asphalt conditions where you want to extract performance, the front brake is your bread and butter. On the road your priority is being safe and because the road condition is not something you should put your trust on, using engine and rear brake in combination with the front brake is a better strategy to stay on two wheels. My take is use engine braking when you can to save fuel and stay safe, if you need heavy braking progressively use your front brake as the main stopping power as long as you're not turning or swerving.
Awesome explaination :) That explains why formula 1 cars drop their revs so quickly compared to a standard car because the gap between the pistons and the cylinders is much less. Hmm it also means that if the revs take to long to come down the cylinders may be kaput
You have a really good channel and I like your explanations. Even without the technical terms (that is geeks like) your examples are very good. buon lavoro
it might be good to note, that an engine is controlled not by fuel, but by the air. If you twist the throttle on an old bike, you literally control an air valve (butterfly valve) on a carburator, or with EFI systems control a butterfly valve on throttle bodies (either electronically or with physical cables). Thus if you close the throttle, you restrict the airflow. If you try to suck air through a smaller gap it also gives more resistance. Whatever controls the air/fuel mixture (carburetors or computer+injectors) tries to keep the air fuel mixture roughly the same, so with less air flow there is less fuel being spent as well. This explains 8:15 (although the airflow and thus consumption is higher than if the bike would be stationary I think). I think this is also how the electronic engine braking works, by electronically not fully closing the butterfly valve, you can increase airflow and thus 'reduce' the amount of braking. I am however not 100% sure of this.
While it is correct that the engine braking increases with RPM, you missed the point that at lower gears the torque conversion allows for a stronger exchange between the engine and the wheels. Love your videos, keep it up!
Here in Chicago Illinois, it's taught in driving lessons to put the car in neutral when you're slowing down on snow or ice to keep the car from sliding due to engine braking.
@@mightylordkuba Except for the fact that I'm talking about casual driving on public roads, not driving on a track. And you'd only "have no control" if you had no ABS and are careless with your braking pressure.
Thank you for the explanation, I always use engine braking while stopping my bike I downshift usually, will that hurt or damage my chain and engine or gears???
After a tremendous engine braking experience, now learner why it should be 2nd priority after main break. Engine breaking made my front sprocket teeth broken one by one with all maintenance for chain cleaning at excellent condition...
Bro nice explained... Bro in case injecting zero fuel during hard engine braking keeping wot.. What will be the effect, more engine brake is it... Also we will see fall in cylinder temp... Wht is your openion
The first thing I noticed hopping on a motorcycle is wow these things engine brake sooo much harder than a car. It does feel like I'm wasting gas a lot because of it when I'm trying to coast and don't want to upshift 3 times or hold the clutch in (it just feels wrong) to do it. But it is definitely nice for cornering on the street. Most of the time I don't need to touch the brakes.
You should do a english lesson with Valentino, and he a racing lesson with you. Win-Win for both. 😉 And in spring i would like to see a another racing video with u. Good Video as allways Alberto.
I understand about engine braking now but what i need to no is in the street and on the track when should i engine brake and how safe is it fir me please
Really good info. My question is, how can the computer select different levels of EBC? Like how does it regulate and give it more or less engine brake based on a selection?
Its recommended to drastically use the engine break for a emergency break? Or in that situation is better pull the clutch 100% and only use the breaks with ABS?
hey alberto , i currently ride a ktm rc 200 , i break and downshift as quick as i can , but when i am breaking from like 120 to 35 kmph i shift quickly to 3rd gear but when i pop the clutch the engine break is so violent that it makes my bike screech a lot and doesnt break me comfortably , does this happen to everybody , or i am using my downshifts in a bad way , i mean the bike tries to stop really quick but it kinda violent so please tell me how to break into corner with controlled engine break
Coming from a 2stroke i was suprised on how much a 4 stroke engine breaks (my wr450f) it was absolutly crazy to me as how much the bike jerks when you cut the gas. On a 2 stroke its not half as bad...
Can you explain what exactly is the difference between horsepower and torque? There are tons of videos about it but it's still something that a lot of people don't really grasp. I'm one of them.
A slipper clutch allows you to downshift down gears and not worry about skipping the rear tyre because the gearbox speed/road speed is higher than the engine speed, when you release the clutch the engine will try and match rpm with the gear box, if the road speed is higher than say your rpm limit, you will either lock up the rear tyre for a moment or the gearbox will explode.
I love your videos bro. Keep it up, and I wish you more success. Pls I have an r1 yamaha 07 mdel, it gives me lots of issues with the starter motor, how best do you think I can fix it?. Tnx
Question: Since engine braking takes away energy from the rear wheel, does engine braking without lever braking (the front brake) produce the same braking effect as using the rear brake - that is, unloading the front wheel?
hi alberto.. one question, u said that we can gain more engine braking when downshifting in hi RPM.. but is the slipper clutch should reduce the engine braking ? currently im using suzuki k9
@@HochstartHarry you mean backing in rite? No wonder few time i done it accidentally in few corner on track.. From hi speed stretch up to tight corner.. When im rapid down shifting, Rear tyre feel like i push the rear brake eventhou i didnt..!! Lol... But it really scare.. Im struggling to centre and stabilize my bike.. :(
@@redlineemperor yes, exactly what i mean. Well there are a few possibilities. Either its a mechanical thing (like tire balance or a mismatched suspension setting) or you need to work on your throttle input. Also incase you ride with the clutch in through turns your bike will never feel stable.
But how does engine braking with assist and slipper clutch work? Does it reduce the engine braking ? And does engine braking increase wear and tear of the engine or clutch? Thanks in advance.
"it helps in braking" - but only up to the point of maximum traction of the rear wheel tire, which is lowered significantly during braking due to load shift to the front. I think the same amount of braking can be achieved solely by the rear brake. So the question becomes: which kind of rear-wheel braking is preferred? Maybe engine braking is inherently smoother? On the track, I actually never use the rear wheel brake, the question there becomes (on modern track bikes): how/why to adjust the engine brake level? How does it actually work (I'm guessing: some fuel is still injected to lower the engine brake). And also: how is it linked to a slipper clutch. Maybe all stuff for a follow up video? In any case, I've been enjoying your video's enormously :)
A lot of guys do not understand what they are riding. You should ride the motorcycle up and down through the gears and the usable rev range, and never change down two gears at the one time and make the rear wheel hop. If your rear wheel loses contact with the road, there is nothing stopping it from moving suddenly sideways. Similarly, if your bike is too light in the front, a big handful of throttle when on a lean, can cause you to lose it. The rider adapts to the bike, and improving it depends on feedback, and knowledge of the effects of changes to its set-up.
Best explanation I've heard on this! Keep these kind of videos coming!
See my other comments. It's not even a correct explanation.
*Cries in 2 stroke*
*Cries in rotary*
Its not as bad as everyone says... Modern oil injected 2strokes (with a seperate oil pump) can engine break all day. Most engines wont seize from a little engine break. Only with very lean mixture and alot of it a negative effect can happen.
You can see that by watching 2 stroke supermotos... Aint nobody got time to pull the clutch or give it a lil gas in a hard breaking scenario
PLEASE READ!! Hey Naska, Tutto bene? I wanted to say before anything that i lobe your videos and they seem very helpful, im a Motard rider in Spain and I wanted to share my opinion in addition to your front braking video, I think theres something missing due to the the front braking system!! Specially at 200km/h ITS VERY IMPORTANT to use the back brake right before the front brake in hard braking to lower the back part (suspension) of the bike so the front doesn’t flip over and like this you make the level of inertia much more placed in the center!! I hope its helpful! PD: it would be good if you haven’t made it yet, to do a VIDEO ABOUT BACK BRAKING! Take care! From MÁLAGA!❤️
This guy has a natural talent for teaching. Everything he teaches is so easy to understand
Best explanation I've ever heard. And the fact about the common misconception of wasting fuel by going downhill on higher RPMs was also very helpful
Gonna be honest, not even my professors in my AutoTronics major explained this topic the way you did ,
It took us 3 whole lectures and 2 assignments , with you just one video !
Thanks Man !
Amaaaaazing explanation, examples, and visuals for non mechs! You're a great teacher! Thank you. More technical videos please!!!
i knew a little bit of how engine brakes work, but this video helped me a lot not only for understand the engine brake, good job
Alberto, you're not explaining engine braking in this video.
As Jason Fenske explains on his TH-cam video titled "Is It Bad To Engine Brake With A Manual Transmission?", it is not compressing the engine that causes engine braking, as that compression goes into the power stroke, which naturally more than compensates for any loss of power due to compression. That of course is not the case in your demonstration of pushing a motorcycle in gear with the engine off.
At about the 4 minute mark you explained that when you let off of the throttle the inertia of the rear wheel would like to keep the vehicle at the same speed, keeping the engine's RPMs up. Then at 5:21 you state "Where does it take the energy to stay at 5,000 RPM? It takes it from the wheels. So, sucking energy from the wheels, the engine is actually braking them. So, it is acting like a brake, and this is why it's called engine braking." You are claiming that the rear wheel speed wants the engine to remain at 5000 RPMs and the engine is taking energy from the rear wheel to rev closer to that speed. That's not defining engine braking.
Let's leave this one to an engineer to explain. I'll quote Jason verbatim from the video I mentioned above:
"You let your foot off the throttle, and so that throttle valve closes and now you have a vacuum between that throttle valve and your engine. Your engine is trying to pull in air, but the throttle is closed so it's hard for it to pull in that air and that's what's slowing you down. A lot of people say it's the compression that's going to be slowing you down in these gasoline engines and that's not the case, because as that piston compresses up, it does pressurize that air, yes, and it does take work to do that, but that work immediately goes right back into pressing that piston back down. Very little of it is actually lost to heat in that transaction because engines are smooth running machines; they're not supposed to lose heat in that scenario. So a lot of the energy from compression just goes right back into pushing the piston back down. The real engine braking in gasoline engines comes from that throttle valve being closed and trying to pull that vacuum."
To put it succinctly, engine braking is the engine slowing down due to the vacuum created by the almost completely closed throttle valves and the slower engine speed in turn slows down the rotational speed of the drive wheel; it is not the drive wheel slowing down the engine.
I hope you consider re-doing this video as you don't seem like the type of guy that wants to propagate inaccurate information. It seems that you genuinely want to help others better understand how things work.
I have a small bike, 4 stroked 180cc engine. Unknowingly I do the same thing while I'm riding my bike. I also thought that engine brake might consume more fuel. But you have given me a clearity that fuel consumption will remain same while we apply engine brake. Thank you.
You explain the technical stuff so well! Love your videos.
I knew all of these things already, but I never really put it all together as to why it did that. Awesome video.
Great Explanation! i saw 2 other videos about the topic, but only your content clarify what is really is engine break! Thanks mate
Hey Naska, thanks for the English channel. In Brazil it's very hard to find videos with a so great content like your productions.
Another great video LOVE the advice (8:21) about changing the engine braking by raising the level of engine braking for better cornering you continue to bless us with these inside tricks really appreciate it!!!!!!!!
An excellent explanation Naska 😀
simple and very clear explanation .. *Thumbs Up*
very well explained Alberto
Ciao Naska Bro✋Now this is what is called BEST EXPLANATORY video on such a complex matter. Thumbs Up from me👍
It can't be the best if it's not even correct. See my other comments.
Excelent video! Good Job Alberto!
Thanks for.explaining so easy... Thanks a ton
Excellent explanation, thanks a lot. Respect to you.
wow amazing explanation keep up the good work alberto naska
with respect you are not only a good racer , you able to put thing for others to understand easily
Nice explanation brother 👍
Alberto, thank you for an excellent explanation about engine braking!
Very good explanation.
Excellent video! Thank u.
Excellent video. I drive a scooter (Yamaha Ray ZR) since 2016. In December 2019 I bought MT15 and after that I taught myself how to ride a bike. I use this engine braking a lot on daily basis. But I was worried about the engine, wondering if it is bad for the engine to use engine braking for slowing down. And now I am relaxed after watching your video. Thanks for all the nice tips!
Another informative content! Thanks, Sir!
very nice explanation
You the best bro. God bless you and your family
Very clear as crystal, thank you
Keep it up you explained to me very well 👌 that was awesome 👌
Great video. I never realised a lot of the things you discussed, this was super interesting :D
I love you r videos. They are very informative. Can you please make a video on how to properly break in a new motorcycle engine? I saw many videos, but they are all confusing. Please, for all the beginner riders or people who are trying their hands on motorcycles. Love from India.
Great detail
You always explain things very well....
Great video. I don’t know it moterbikes are different but you also forgot to add that an engine brake uses the engine as well to slow itself down as the engine is just a big air pump. And it uses the engines as an air pump with a lack of spark and petrol to help it slow itself down.
Fantastic explanation!
I only have a front brake on my single-speed fixed-gear bicycle and do "engine braking" with my feet.
Foot brake not engine
good demo naska ---cheers
Loved this video! I really feel that it even helps me ride better , thank you !Always nice to watch your videos!👍👍👍🏆🏆
Yeah need more. Love from India 😘😘
L
@@winstonkhithie8318 M
Great explanation Alberto! Keep upnthe good work, love it 🤙🏼
This answer of my question. Thanks Naska,
But how you do it ? Need your percentage estimate betwen Front brake and Engine Brake
Afwan M
The front brake is still FAR more powerful. This is always your main brake, and the engine can help slow down a bit more, or scrub of corner speed as you’re turning in.
Also to develop on @D.B. 's remark, when a motorcycle slows down the front tyre compresses while the rear tyre decompresses in a sort of deceleration squat. On motorcycle racing videos you can see the rear tyre actually lifting from the ground, which means that all the engine braking is doing is slowing down the power train until it matches idle engine speed, at which point more fuel will be injected to keep the engine from stalling.
Here's a good example from God Marquez: th-cam.com/video/tpI2S3GQ-gA/w-d-xo.html
@@Showmetheevidence- thank you sir, i do likely 50% 50%, but when i watch another vlog the engine brake too much is not good for the engine especial for gearbox. Is that true ? Actually Naska Videos help me alot, i didnt copy him just for my guidance 😁
@@afwanm4156 Daniel gave you the correct answer. If you use zero front brake, and zero rear brake, then you are 100% engine braking.
If you use 100% front brake (and not flipped), you are using 0% engine brake.
It is a continuum.
@@DumbledoreMcCracken Actually that's not exactly correct, my point on the 'engine braking interacting with the driveshaft' was only for when the rear wheel was in the air from extreme braking.
What's important to be aware of is to the fact that the rear wheel decompresses under deceleration, reducing it's potential non-slip braking, which will be a combination of both engine braking and actual rear brake.
To answer @Afwan M, on controlled asphalt conditions where you want to extract performance, the front brake is your bread and butter. On the road your priority is being safe and because the road condition is not something you should put your trust on, using engine and rear brake in combination with the front brake is a better strategy to stay on two wheels.
My take is use engine braking when you can to save fuel and stay safe, if you need heavy braking progressively use your front brake as the main stopping power as long as you're not turning or swerving.
Awesome explaination :) That explains why formula 1 cars drop their revs so quickly compared to a standard car because the gap between the pistons and the cylinders is much less. Hmm it also means that if the revs take to long to come down the cylinders may be kaput
Excelente canal y con unos temas muy interesantes. Gracias por compartir y enseñar, saludos!!
That was great, wish you would go into more detail. Thanks
Excellent explanation Alberto, thank you! Tutorials on using this and other techniques on track would be good too. Keep up the great work!
You have a really good channel and I like your explanations. Even without the technical terms (that is geeks like) your examples are very good.
buon lavoro
Very useful!
Great explanation Alberto. Thanks man!
Great video Naska! Keep them coming!
Finally,, thank u😊
it might be good to note, that an engine is controlled not by fuel, but by the air. If you twist the throttle on an old bike, you literally control an air valve (butterfly valve) on a carburator, or with EFI systems control a butterfly valve on throttle bodies (either electronically or with physical cables). Thus if you close the throttle, you restrict the airflow. If you try to suck air through a smaller gap it also gives more resistance. Whatever controls the air/fuel mixture (carburetors or computer+injectors) tries to keep the air fuel mixture roughly the same, so with less air flow there is less fuel being spent as well. This explains 8:15 (although the airflow and thus consumption is higher than if the bike would be stationary I think).
I think this is also how the electronic engine braking works, by electronically not fully closing the butterfly valve, you can increase airflow and thus 'reduce' the amount of braking. I am however not 100% sure of this.
While it is correct that the engine braking increases with RPM, you missed the point that at lower gears the torque conversion allows for a stronger exchange between the engine and the wheels. Love your videos, keep it up!
Great video. Grazie!
Here in Chicago Illinois, it's taught in driving lessons to put the car in neutral when you're slowing down on snow or ice to keep the car from sliding due to engine braking.
it is very bad idea. Neutral on slippery is dangerous because you have no control
@@mightylordkuba Except for the fact that I'm talking about casual driving on public roads, not driving on a track. And you'd only "have no control" if you had no ABS and are careless with your braking pressure.
Wow another great video, love how you explain along with your graphics everything really comes together ...
Thank you for the explanation, I always use engine braking while stopping my bike I downshift usually, will that hurt or damage my chain and engine or gears???
How about a discussion on entering the corner. Regarding use of the engine brake versus the front brake. Including clutch use and timing. Thank you
Very informative thanks, we need more vedios like this.
your video is easy to learn....keep it up brah 💪💪💪
After a tremendous engine braking experience, now learner why it should be 2nd priority after main break. Engine breaking made my front sprocket teeth broken one by one with all maintenance for chain cleaning at excellent condition...
I hope you have video applying engine braking on racebike.
Bro nice explained... Bro in case injecting zero fuel during hard engine braking keeping wot.. What will be the effect, more engine brake is it... Also we will see fall in cylinder temp... Wht is your openion
Fantastic!!!
Informative 😊
Your channel is amazing! Keep going full gas :D
Very good video!!
The first thing I noticed hopping on a motorcycle is wow these things engine brake sooo much harder than a car. It does feel like I'm wasting gas a lot because of it when I'm trying to coast and don't want to upshift 3 times or hold the clutch in (it just feels wrong) to do it. But it is definitely nice for cornering on the street. Most of the time I don't need to touch the brakes.
Glad I subscribed
Does it affects gear means any damage or any thing?
Can you make a video about looking technique. Ciao👌
You should do a english lesson with Valentino, and he a racing lesson with you.
Win-Win for both. 😉
And in spring i would like to see a another racing video with u.
Good Video as allways Alberto.
I understand about engine braking now but what i need to no is in the street and on the track when should i engine brake and how safe is it fir me please
Я смотрю с удовольствием твое видео и на английском языке ,а за русские титры огромное спасибо!
Nice work mate!
Solid information.
I don't know when you changed, I remember a fast pace Italian but nice English though
Awesome explanation. Thank you for the graphics. Can you make a video on specific numbers for engine braking for throttle/rpm ?
Excellent video 👏👏✊✊
Make a video on trail braking, backing it in
Really good info. My question is, how can the computer select different levels of EBC? Like how does it regulate and give it more or less engine brake based on a selection?
thank for make this videos in english FORZA Naska
thanks bro
Its recommended to drastically use the engine break for a emergency break? Or in that situation is better pull the clutch 100% and only use the breaks with ABS?
hey alberto , i currently ride a ktm rc 200 , i break and downshift as quick as i can , but when i am breaking from like 120 to 35 kmph i shift quickly to 3rd gear but when i pop the clutch the engine break is so violent that it makes my bike screech a lot and doesnt break me comfortably , does this happen to everybody , or i am using my downshifts in a bad way , i mean the bike tries to stop really quick but it kinda violent so please tell me how to break into corner with controlled engine break
Coming from a 2stroke i was suprised on how much a 4 stroke engine breaks (my wr450f) it was absolutly crazy to me as how much the bike jerks when you cut the gas. On a 2 stroke its not half as bad...
hi naska,how to do slide when entering corner
Can you explain what exactly is the difference between horsepower and torque? There are tons of videos about it but it's still something that a lot of people don't really grasp. I'm one of them.
Hey Naska, do you have any videos about downshifting with a slipper clutch vs no slipper clutch? Thanks for all the great content!
Not yet
A slipper clutch allows you to downshift down gears and not worry about skipping the rear tyre because the gearbox speed/road speed is higher than the engine speed, when you release the clutch the engine will try and match rpm with the gear box, if the road speed is higher than say your rpm limit, you will either lock up the rear tyre for a moment or the gearbox will explode.
I love your videos bro. Keep it up, and I wish you more success. Pls I have an r1 yamaha 07 mdel, it gives me lots of issues with the starter motor, how best do you think I can fix it?. Tnx
I hope so
Question: Since engine braking takes away energy from the rear wheel, does engine braking without lever braking (the front brake) produce the same braking effect as using the rear brake - that is, unloading the front wheel?
You need to make a strength training video for riders
hi alberto.. one question, u said that we can gain more engine braking when downshifting in hi RPM.. but is the slipper clutch should reduce the engine braking ? currently im using suzuki k9
Well ut only slips until the rear wheel matches the speed you are going... Mainly helps with starting a drift... (I ride supermoto)
@@HochstartHarry you mean backing in rite? No wonder few time i done it accidentally in few corner on track.. From hi speed stretch up to tight corner.. When im rapid down shifting, Rear tyre feel like i push the rear brake eventhou i didnt..!! Lol... But it really scare.. Im struggling to centre and stabilize my bike.. :(
@@redlineemperor yes, exactly what i mean. Well there are a few possibilities. Either its a mechanical thing (like tire balance or a mismatched suspension setting) or you need to work on your throttle input. Also incase you ride with the clutch in through turns your bike will never feel stable.
@@HochstartHarry yeah.. still trying to figure out best throttle input and braking point...
@@redlineemperor thats all a matter of practise. Go and watch "twist of the wrist" its on youtube, its cheezy as hell but lots of great info
But how does engine braking with assist and slipper clutch work? Does it reduce the engine braking ? And does engine braking increase wear and tear of the engine or clutch? Thanks in advance.
"it helps in braking" - but only up to the point of maximum traction of the rear wheel tire, which is lowered significantly during braking due to load shift to the front. I think the same amount of braking can be achieved solely by the rear brake. So the question becomes: which kind of rear-wheel braking is preferred? Maybe engine braking is inherently smoother? On the track, I actually never use the rear wheel brake, the question there becomes (on modern track bikes): how/why to adjust the engine brake level? How does it actually work (I'm guessing: some fuel is still injected to lower the engine brake). And also: how is it linked to a slipper clutch. Maybe all stuff for a follow up video? In any case, I've been enjoying your video's enormously :)
thats the question I wanted answered as well 👍🏻
Whats the difference between v4 and inline engines?
Please make your next video on clutch less upshifting
A lot of guys do not understand what they are riding. You should ride the motorcycle up and down through the gears and the usable rev range, and never change down two gears at the one time and make the rear wheel hop. If your rear wheel loses contact with the road, there is nothing stopping it from moving suddenly sideways. Similarly, if your bike is too light in the front, a big handful of throttle when on a lean, can cause you to lose it. The rider adapts to the bike, and improving it depends on feedback, and knowledge of the effects of changes to its set-up.