There are times when you might seem like an amateur mechanic but you always seem like a professional You tuber and your wife is the best camera girl ever.
I think it just needed to be run. After running all that bad gas with too much oil for 20 seconds at a time, it was loaded up. Take it out for 20 minutes and run it hard. Mix up some fresh gas with a good clean burning synthetic oil, and see if it clears out. That crankcase has sat for who knows how many years with old oil in it. The crank seal is probably fine, but could be seeping from being loaded up. Also, you should be able to tell from the smell if the smoke is from crankcase oil or running too rich (after running it long enough to burn out any residual seepage or assembly oil). Gear oil has a completely different smell from 2 stroke oil.
at the end he shows that the crank bearing has play so that as well as the leaky seals need replacing. the crankcase is not full of oil like a 4 stroke. the oil in the flywheel housing is oil and fuel; there's a serious leak when the engine is running for there to be that much residue.
it definitely could have been the problem, i had the same problem on my 89 kx80 and i ended up changing all the gaskets for practice working on my engine, ended up fixing the problem for me
Woke this morning had the notification of the new up load and made my day, kept in the bank till after work and must say well worth the wait. Love this channel.
i'm a professional and qualified automotive mechanic--i have always had motorcycles, but only recently obtained a 1990 rm 250---it dows EXACTLY this but still has incredible power-- youve saved me alot of time trouble shooting,--my case may be worst case,but at least i know where to start before i get to those pesky transmission oil seals--thanks folks. :)
You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal! if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer. Changed one on my Cr250, no problem.
Ryan Moore I live for slick little tricks like that. My buddy bought some nylon shifter bushings, and the kit came with installation instructions. It said to basically halfway drop the transmission so that you could remove the part which contains the bushing and press it out. That seemed like a big pain in the ass, so I got underneath it and looked. I ended up taking my pocket knife and sawing the shoulder off of the stock rubber bushing on one side, at which point I could just poke it out with my finger. The new nylon bushings were two piece, so they slipped in from opposite sides no problem. Turned an afternoon project into a 20 minute project.
Nevir202 I'm a auto mechanic, and back in the 90's gm had the iron duke, a 2.5 four cylinder pushrod overhead valve engine that gm used in EVERYTHING. Instead of using a timing chain, it used a fibre timing gear that was pressed onto the camshaft. The recommended repair procedure was to remove the engine, remove the balancer and front timing cover, remove the valve cover and loosen the rocker arms, remove the lifter side cover and remove the pushrods and lifters, then remove the cam and remove and replace the cam gear using a arbor press. The whole job was listed at 19 hours flat rate. Me and my buddy in the private shop we worked at devised a easier way. Jack the passenger side of the car up, remove tire and inner fender liner. Remove the passenger side cradle bolts and lower engine and subframe to gain access to timing cover. Remove belts, balancer and timing cover. The center hub of the gear is aluminum, using a drill, drill small holes thru fibre sprocket and aluminum hub as close to cam as possible. Using chisel or air hammer, crack hub apart from cam and remove. Center of cam is hollow, take a fine thread tap and cut threads into inner shaft of cam as far as possible. Using long bolt that fits threaded hole and thick washer, coat new gear hub with oil and press onto cam using bolt. Install new cover gasket and seal onto timing cover and install it, reinstall balancer and belts, put subframe back up, replace inner fender and tire, and done. Total time? About four hours, give or take.
All these are reasons why you used to hang onto a private mechanic before they started making everything to where you had to go straight to dealer for everything, then pay more for parts, labor, time, etc.
Hey Jake, just wanted to let you know I had your videos playing in the background while I was replacing the main system board of a Lenovo all-in-one PC. Your positive attitude while troubleshooting and working helped keep me in the right mindset while I worked!
Don’t get discouraged, can’t wait to see this thing run once you tear into it. Honestly the engine tear downs are my favorite part of this channel. Keep up the great content!
When bikes sit for long periods of time with the fuel valve on, fuel leaks into crankcase. The pressure from piston coming down will force this fuel out seal. The seal is easily bypassed in this direction. This "puddle of fuel will also make the volume of the crankcase smaller and make the engine run like crap. It takes a couple wot runs to clear out.
He who dares wins ,you are the man with the magic hands ,the phoenix that will rise from the cloud of 2 stroke smoke ,you will make it shine and it will see tarmac once again ,cant wait to see you guys out for a family bike ride be awesome keep up the great work no matter how frustrating :)
Great vid, personally i find it easier to remove the top end and the clutch, flywheel, primary drive gear while the motor is still in the bike. saves it wobbling all over the place on the bench. Also if you cant see the cross hatching in the bore, then the plating is worn out.
Thanks for being real people. Show us we aren't the only people on earth that learns through our questionable decisions, and grows from them. I really enjoy watching you and your wife have a life. May God ess and keep you.
Your far from a amateur man. You teach me so many odd ball ways to get things done. Your just like the rest of us. Hopeful that something small will fix a big problem.
Keep that chin up! We all love seeing the progression and process. Welcome to the wonderful world of 2stroke dirtbikes! My Kawasaki had the same exact problem when I got it. Ended up doing a complete rebuild. But keep in mind that even after the rebuild, the bike will run cold and rich for a bit and smoke a decent amount till you ride it and get some heat in it. You can see my 2 videos on my channel for proof.
Before going to all that trouble i'd mix up a batch of 40:1 Seems allot of folks run those bikes at that ratio just fine. All my cr500s needed to warm up for a minute or two before they really ran good on the top end.
The first thing I thought was the 2 stroke mix ratio is way off, an too rich, older bikes use to run 32:1 with a few others at 40:1. Nowadays its 60-80:1 or even thinner. I like having a slight puff of smoke at intial tip in, then some what clear out afterward. I think its safer to be a little rich opposed to a little lean. I believe the engine lasts longer too. Less down time, more ride time. Just saying.
If your real life mistakes mean that we are going to get more videos, then keep messing up =) I really enjoy your videos, I'm so glad I've discovered your channel!
you said oil leaking out of engine. crank seals and the gaskets. 2 strokes age. they are a love hate but easier then newer 4 strokes that make lots of power.
No matter what it shouldn't leak through the other side. Crankcase pressure will always force excess build up out of the engine unless there's a leak as in this case.
Kade Stratton I know with my bike (RM125) even at the track it smokes pretty good even with it warmed up and I’m running a carburetor jetted and tuned as perfect as I could tune it and my mechanic and the Suzuki dealership and it still smokes but I run a 32:1 mixture but it’s a two stroke so it’s going to smoke no matter what
Awesome vid guys. Sorry to see you go to all the struggle with these old KDX's, but at least now we know what all it needs. Time to go trade that turkey for a rebuild kit. Go ahead and do the whole top and bottom rebuild so you won't regret it later. Wait no don't do that, you must remain with doing as little as it takes, that's the goal of these videos and why we keep coming back to watch more.
Glad you're going to split the cases. I will mention that there are 2 other things to change as well, make sure the mix is closer to factory spec so you don't foil the plug, and let the bike come up to temp before you rev it. None of my 2 strokes have ever reved on cold start but once they are at temp the revvvvv
Stumbled upon your videos today. I really enjoy them, you and your wife make for good entertainment and it's educational.Nothing like wrenching on things, I love it. As far as the swap before checking? It happens to the best of us. Putting the cart before the horse so to speak. Just think of it as practice Lol
I enjoy your videos you make me want a dirt bike so bad...but thanks to you when I get one it will be maintained perfectly with all kinds of nice parts on it . Thank you for your time and each and every video you produce....saving up for my first dirt bike and have been for a while.keep up the good work
I have a 1990 Kx250, it smokes like a forest fire till it warms up. Stock 2-stroke mix ratio I believe is 32:1, for a while I was running 40:1, but i thought that was a little lean, so I split the difference now & run 36:1, I also run a race plug NGK B9EGV. The hotter it runs the better it runs. Anyway keep up the Great Videos.
oh the dilemma. I like to see a new video from you.. so I want to like. But the bike doesn't run and I don't want anyone to think I like that. But you did an engine swap which I like. But that didn't work either which I don't like. But it ran... I like to see running motors. But it ran like garbage which is sad. So I have no idea if I should like the video or not. frick it... *Slams Like Button
Keep making content! I thoroughly enjoy this "real" life scenario and how you attack the problem. Like any technician, you hope to fix the issue with one attempt but reality is much more painful....
Dear Jakob, changing the crankshaft seals isn't a big thing on those kind of engines. Look for it on TH-cam, i've done is on a fiew yzs'. Just by using a narrow woodscrew (spax) a screwdriver and a tong. The engine can stay in the frame, just dismount left an right engine parts to get to the basic case. Even the transmissionoil " could" stay in it. Just lay the bike flat on the foor. For youre own comfort, get your an impact wrench to loosen the clutch mainnut and flyweelnut. To get off the flyheel pull up the bike in your Garage to make it moving "free", then slightly tap the flywheelside of the crankshaft with a copperhammer. Greetings from germany.
Back basics a lot of bike shops would charge a fortune and losing the art of mechanical repairs we live in a throw away society good to ur taking up all these challenges plus ur wife’s comments are so funny
I used to have a 1969 Kawasaki 500 Mach III H1 (3 cylinder). I put a '71 front end on it (orginal front end was straight up and down, the 71 had more rake and disc brake.) We would take it to the local drag strip on weekends. I built it but my friend would drive it on the track. It had a habit of burning the piston furthest from the oil pump, so I bored out the oil port and put a bigger line to it, and cranked the oil pump wide open. It fouled spark plugs real fast so I put flat cap plugs in it, back then the only place you could find them was at the airport, sold to use in airplanes. It was street legal and I made final adjustments on the side of the road riding it to the track. It smoked so bad I called it my Smog Device, but it brought home the First Place Overall trophy many times, doing the 1/4 mile in the high 12's. Which is slow nowdays, but was pretty darned fast in the early 70's.
You can also check for leaks between the engine and the transmission by putting some castor oil in your transmission then running the bike. If you smell castor oil being burnt you’ve got a leak between the transmission and the engine. Little tech tip I learned in school.
Don't sweat it,it happens to the best, I had a 83 or 84(can't remember) Cr 250 I bought locked up. It had been setting for about 10yrs . Rebuilt it and got running but it was running erratic and lean. Beat myself to death before I figured out the crank seal behind the magneto had just decided to pop out.lol.
i have been watching your show love your comedy you and your wife doo seeing her rid that scoter that made me happy to see I just got on last Sunday $1500 bike i talked him down to $650 for 2005 klx 300r indo it runs good motor new just bel replaced no brakes i need to hook up rear master brakes lights it needs brakes seat body panels the bikes you work on look much better than mine
Use self tapping screws into the seals to pull them out without splitting the cases. Also the exhaust and silencer packing will be saturated in oil so will still smoke bad untill it’s all burnt off or cleaned. Keep up the good work, love watching ur videos!!
I'm feeling pretty amateur right now I don't make comments but it will be cool to see you guys getting 50 or so miles per gallon together ! I had to look up how to spell amature
You're going through what I'm going through. A love for old 2 strokes and then the realization that unless it's running great, and even if it is, it probably needs to be rebuilt. And not just piston and rings damn seals and main bearings. Then heaven forbid your rod needle bearing is toast cause some of the old air cooled ones they don't even make cranks for anymore! Anyways, can't get enough of your channel!
Shit happens man, it's nice to see it's not all rainbows and sunshine each time. But we are still learning and developing which is awesome! Thanks to you two for the videos.
When you tear into the engine it would be a good idea to service the power valves. That gen of KDX is infamous for stripping the teeth off the aluminum subvalves which will make it run like junk on the top end. Can't buy new ones anymore but a guy in the UK makes steel ones that should last forever. Unfortunately they cost more than you paid for the bike!
Cody Jv yep, I'm betting the expansion chamber and muffler are full of oil. He needs to wash them out as well as possible, then take it for a long hard run to blow and burn the remaining oil out. Of course, after he changes the seals. I have a Suzuki rm250 a customer brought into my shop, his "bike expert" rebuilt the top end 6 times this summer, it would not idle, and would stay revved high for a long time after the throttle was blipped. He was told by the "expert" this was normal. I knew what was wrong as soon as he told me what it was doing. After I split the cases, I found the flywheel side crank seal was installed crooked, and the "expert" goobered it with silicone sealant in an attempt to fix his mistake. This caused a vacuum leak, which made the engine run lean, causing piston damage. Its getting new piston and rings, new crank bearings and seals, and top and bottom gaskets. About $250 for parts. I'm doing a video about it next month, showing the damage and the correct way to rebuild it.
i never had to split my cases to replace a crank seal if you carefully drill a small hole into the seal then put a screw barley into it you can pull on it with a slide hammer or gentle taps to yank it out :)
I'm not trying to be a smart alec here and this video is years old so I'm sure you've fixed this looong ago. But I wonder how the fuel oil mixture is? I'm sure he's not gotten it wrong but I'd start at the source. Man Jennie (I assume that's your wife's name) is just awesome! You guys are a great team and make for fun watching. You are blessed sir!
Well, the oil won't hurt anything so no extra damage, the bright side :-D. And the compression is great so it should go like a rocket. Not wasted time, just usefull research and diagnostics lol :-D
Jusb1066 True, but I use more than 2% oil, and its kinda a mess xd The engine can't burn it all so it ends in the exhaust, I took it off and empty it, turned it around and it came out xd
i've had same problem.. i took all the transmission oils out, then half a bottle of cocacola it cleans seals etc, then you take cocacola out when you had it laying there about 2h andddd then you put transmission oil back in the chamber and it runs beautifully (edit) You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal! if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer.
Just watched a few of your vids, looking to get into fixing up used bikes myself. You have my sub! Well done on the video you and your wife are awesome!
Thank you so much for this video because I notesed when I change my oil on my 2001 Suzuki rm 125 less oil came out then I put in but I didnt know if this was normal and I don't have the $300 for a professional to look at so you saved me money thank you
Heidi Klum had a problem with a seal too... but it didn't get her down... (boom-tiss-tah!!) great series so far, can't wait for part 6, camera girl is ruthless with the burns, she's a keeper!
The real mystery is how you keep your sparkling white t-shirt sparkling white after removing 2 engines, swapping out pistons, and reinstalling 2 engines.
I think most 2 strokes end up being sold cheaply because of crank seals going bad and the owner cant figure it out... instant deal for someone that knows whats wrong and how to fix it. Usually, the easy way to find out is to take the mag cover off like you did and if theres fuel in the cover, then that seal is bad, and you can assume that the other is bad also. Its a good idea to change the main bearings when the seals go bad- even if they "look" and feel good, they will not be as tight as new bearings.
I come to learn more about motorcycle engines, I stay for your wife's ball breaking. She's a gem! Great work you two.
Eric Cherry
K
Eric C. K
Lmaooooo!
@Grant Nicholas Nice bot promoting a scam
@Marvin Elias Nice bot promoting a scam
There are times when you might seem like an amateur mechanic but you always seem like a professional You tuber and your wife is the best camera girl ever.
It's still worth saving. Keep going. !
I think it just needed to be run. After running all that bad gas with too much oil for 20 seconds at a time, it was loaded up. Take it out for 20 minutes and run it hard. Mix up some fresh gas with a good clean burning synthetic oil, and see if it clears out. That crankcase has sat for who knows how many years with old oil in it. The crank seal is probably fine, but could be seeping from being loaded up. Also, you should be able to tell from the smell if the smoke is from crankcase oil or running too rich (after running it long enough to burn out any residual seepage or assembly oil). Gear oil has a completely different smell from 2 stroke oil.
at the end he shows that the crank bearing has play so that as well as the leaky seals need replacing. the crankcase is not full of oil like a 4 stroke. the oil in the flywheel housing is oil and fuel; there's a serious leak when the engine is running for there to be that much residue.
it definitely could have been the problem, i had the same problem on my 89 kx80 and i ended up changing all the gaskets for practice working on my engine, ended up fixing the problem for me
Woke this morning had the notification of the new up load and made my day, kept in the bank till after work and must say well worth the wait. Love this channel.
Cr'Lar Lee nice profile pic lol
Henry Freund thanks pal same to you nice bike . 👍
Cr'Lar Lee oh no?! It’s you my god
All of TH-cam, Netflix, Amazon, Hulu, and on and on, and I still come here in the evening.
i'm a professional and qualified automotive mechanic--i have always had motorcycles, but only recently obtained a 1990 rm 250---it dows EXACTLY this but still has incredible power-- youve saved me alot of time trouble shooting,--my case may be worst case,but at least i know where to start before i get to those pesky transmission oil seals--thanks folks. :)
I love your back and forth banter! It would be cool to swap the triple clamps and upside-down forks from the parts bike too! And the bars!
You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal!
if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer. Changed one on my Cr250, no problem.
Ryan Moore I live for slick little tricks like that.
My buddy bought some nylon shifter bushings, and the kit came with installation instructions. It said to basically halfway drop the transmission so that you could remove the part which contains the bushing and press it out. That seemed like a big pain in the ass, so I got underneath it and looked. I ended up taking my pocket knife and sawing the shoulder off of the stock rubber bushing on one side, at which point I could just poke it out with my finger. The new nylon bushings were two piece, so they slipped in from opposite sides no problem.
Turned an afternoon project into a 20 minute project.
Yep, same procedure on my rm250.
Nevir202 I'm a auto mechanic, and back in the 90's gm had the iron duke, a 2.5 four cylinder pushrod overhead valve engine that gm used in EVERYTHING. Instead of using a timing chain, it used a fibre timing gear that was pressed onto the camshaft. The recommended repair procedure was to remove the engine, remove the balancer and front timing cover, remove the valve cover and loosen the rocker arms, remove the lifter side cover and remove the pushrods and lifters, then remove the cam and remove and replace the cam gear using a arbor press. The whole job was listed at 19 hours flat rate. Me and my buddy in the private shop we worked at devised a easier way. Jack the passenger side of the car up, remove tire and inner fender liner. Remove the passenger side cradle bolts and lower engine and subframe to gain access to timing cover. Remove belts, balancer and timing cover. The center hub of the gear is aluminum, using a drill, drill small holes thru fibre sprocket and aluminum hub as close to cam as possible. Using chisel or air hammer, crack hub apart from cam and remove. Center of cam is hollow, take a fine thread tap and cut threads into inner shaft of cam as far as possible. Using long bolt that fits threaded hole and thick washer, coat new gear hub with oil and press onto cam using bolt. Install new cover gasket and seal onto timing cover and install it, reinstall balancer and belts, put subframe back up, replace inner fender and tire, and done. Total time? About four hours, give or take.
dave1135 Most excellent!
All these are reasons why you used to hang onto a private mechanic before they started making everything to where you had to go straight to dealer for everything, then pay more for parts, labor, time, etc.
You have a way to make the most mundane things seem so interesting. You would make a great teacher.
Hey Jake, just wanted to let you know I had your videos playing in the background while I was replacing the main system board of a Lenovo all-in-one PC. Your positive attitude while troubleshooting and working helped keep me in the right mindset while I worked!
Hey ! I am glad I could watch this again before tearing into my bike .
Keep these coming! Your wife is a great drive for you. You can have this thing brand new in no time!
Don’t get discouraged, can’t wait to see this thing run once you tear into it. Honestly the engine tear downs are my favorite part of this channel. Keep up the great content!
The only bad experiences are the one's we don't learn from... LOVE the vids and running commentary!
Very, very educational! Learned how to diagnose and repair a dirt bike in 15 minutes, awesome
They deserve more attention. This is by far my favourite TH-cam channel in existence. You need to make 30m long videos!
MrTechKid total agree mate 👍👍👍👍
MrTechKid *Favorite
When bikes sit for long periods of time with the fuel valve on, fuel leaks into crankcase. The pressure from piston coming down will force this fuel out seal. The seal is easily bypassed in this direction. This "puddle of fuel will also make the volume of the crankcase smaller and make the engine run like crap. It takes a couple wot runs to clear out.
Your wife is a scream! Duct tape and zip ties are a must for a professional repair job...
Browns Nation Duct tape and wire ties work for wives as well.
yeah that how i got my wife into our freezer
I'm still laughing over the project unfolding / wallet unfolding comment a few vids ago.
I wonder if she has a cute sister with the same sense of humor. 🤔
this was made 3 years ago, it's still super fun to watch the videos.. :D
Love you videos, I go back and watch them over and over.
He who dares wins ,you are the man with the magic hands ,the phoenix that will rise from the cloud of 2 stroke smoke ,you will make it shine and it will see tarmac once again ,cant wait to see you guys out for a family bike ride be awesome keep up the great work no matter how frustrating :)
Great vid, personally i find it easier to remove the top end and the clutch, flywheel, primary drive gear while the motor is still in the bike. saves it wobbling all over the place on the bench. Also if you cant see the cross hatching in the bore, then the plating is worn out.
First, you learn the 10 ways not to fix it, then you arrive at the good solution, what a greater knowledge you have. That's why you are with Jennie.
Thanks for being real people. Show us we aren't the only people on earth that learns through our questionable decisions, and grows from them. I really enjoy watching you and your wife have a life. May God ess and keep you.
This is comedy gold! About fell out of my chair three times and I'm not past 10 minutes in. More Executive Producer Jennie!!!
Put the inverted forks of the parts bike onto the other one
I am so glad you bought this and that generac generator. The later is when I found your awesome channel, and they both meant more videos.
Your far from a amateur man. You teach me so many odd ball ways to get things done. Your just like the rest of us. Hopeful that something small will fix a big problem.
Keep that chin up! We all love seeing the progression and process. Welcome to the wonderful world of 2stroke dirtbikes! My Kawasaki had the same exact problem when I got it. Ended up doing a complete rebuild. But keep in mind that even after the rebuild, the bike will run cold and rich for a bit and smoke a decent amount till you ride it and get some heat in it. You can see my 2 videos on my channel for proof.
Before going to all that trouble i'd mix up a batch of 40:1 Seems allot of folks run those bikes at that ratio just fine. All my cr500s needed to warm up for a minute or two before they really ran good on the top end.
The first thing I thought was the 2 stroke mix ratio is way off, an too rich, older bikes use to run 32:1 with a few others at 40:1. Nowadays its 60-80:1 or even thinner. I like having a slight puff of smoke at intial tip in, then some what clear out afterward. I think its safer to be a little rich opposed to a little lean. I believe the engine lasts longer too. Less down time, more ride time. Just saying.
I love that you can take these setbacks so well so that we don't have to.
If your real life mistakes mean that we are going to get more videos, then keep messing up =)
I really enjoy your videos, I'm so glad I've discovered your channel!
Love your videos and I have never clicked so fast in my life!
It seems to be fine you just need to hold it flat and clear it out and warm it up every 2 stroke runs like that at the start till it’s warmed up
seals. bad.
you said oil leaking out of engine. crank seals and the gaskets. 2 strokes age. they are a love hate but easier then newer 4 strokes that make lots of power.
No matter what it shouldn't leak through the other side. Crankcase pressure will always force excess build up out of the engine unless there's a leak as in this case.
There should never be gas in the stator cover, the crankseals are bad and you can damage the engine riding it with bad seals.
Kade Stratton I know with my bike (RM125) even at the track it smokes pretty good even with it warmed up and I’m running a carburetor jetted and tuned as perfect as I could tune it and my mechanic and the Suzuki dealership and it still smokes but I run a 32:1 mixture but it’s a two stroke so it’s going to smoke no matter what
Awesome vid guys. Sorry to see you go to all the struggle with these old KDX's, but at least now we know what all it needs. Time to go trade that turkey for a rebuild kit. Go ahead and do the whole top and bottom rebuild so you won't regret it later. Wait no don't do that, you must remain with doing as little as it takes, that's the goal of these videos and why we keep coming back to watch more.
Glad you're going to split the cases. I will mention that there are 2 other things to change as well, make sure the mix is closer to factory spec so you don't foil the plug, and let the bike come up to temp before you rev it. None of my 2 strokes have ever reved on cold start but once they are at temp the revvvvv
Stumbled upon your videos today. I really enjoy them, you and your wife make for good entertainment and it's educational.Nothing like wrenching on things, I love it. As far as the swap before checking? It happens to the best of us. Putting the cart before the horse so to speak. Just think of it as practice Lol
I enjoy your videos you make me want a dirt bike so bad...but thanks to you when I get one it will be maintained perfectly with all kinds of nice parts on it . Thank you for your time and each and every video you produce....saving up for my first dirt bike and have been for a while.keep up the good work
I have a 1990 Kx250, it smokes like a forest fire till it warms up. Stock 2-stroke mix ratio I believe is 32:1, for a while I was running 40:1, but i thought that was a little lean, so I split the difference now & run 36:1, I also run a race plug NGK B9EGV. The hotter it runs the better it runs. Anyway keep up the Great Videos.
oh the dilemma.
I like to see a new video from you.. so I want to like.
But the bike doesn't run and I don't want anyone to think I like that.
But you did an engine swap which I like.
But that didn't work either which I don't like.
But it ran... I like to see running motors.
But it ran like garbage which is sad.
So I have no idea if I should like the video or not.
frick it...
*Slams Like Button
VHFGamer frick!!
VHFGamer Keeping it family friendly, good on you for using the word frick instead of you know what.
You and your wife crack me up, never stop teaching me!
Keep making content! I thoroughly enjoy this "real" life scenario and how you attack the problem. Like any technician, you hope to fix the issue with one attempt but reality is much more painful....
Considering his phenomenal luck with that “ruined” generator he got for a song, I think this is just balancing out the equation a bit.
I’m just glad I’m not the only one that makes these mistakes... keep on keeping on
Ya'll are hellarious!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wonderful couple. I learn alot from your humor and videos!
Dear Jakob, changing the crankshaft seals isn't a big thing on those kind of engines. Look for it on TH-cam, i've done is on a fiew yzs'. Just by using a narrow woodscrew (spax) a screwdriver and a tong. The engine can stay in the frame, just dismount left an right engine parts to get to the basic case. Even the transmissionoil " could" stay in it. Just lay the bike flat on the foor. For youre own comfort, get your an impact wrench to loosen the clutch mainnut and flyweelnut. To get off the flyheel pull up the bike in your Garage to make it moving "free", then slightly tap the flywheelside of the crankshaft with a copperhammer. Greetings from germany.
Your wife is a hoot ! Love watching your videos and the look on your face when she doesn't mince her words 😂 keep up the great work 👍😉
Back basics a lot of bike shops would charge a fortune and losing the art of mechanical repairs we live in a throw away society good to ur taking up all these challenges plus ur wife’s comments are so funny
I used to have a 1969 Kawasaki 500 Mach III H1 (3 cylinder). I put a '71 front end on it (orginal front end was straight up and down, the 71 had more rake and disc brake.) We would take it to the local drag strip on weekends. I built it but my friend would drive it on the track. It had a habit of burning the piston furthest from the oil pump, so I bored out the oil port and put a bigger line to it, and cranked the oil pump wide open. It fouled spark plugs real fast so I put flat cap plugs in it, back then the only place you could find them was at the airport, sold to use in airplanes. It was street legal and I made final adjustments on the side of the road riding it to the track. It smoked so bad I called it my Smog Device, but it brought home the First Place Overall trophy many times, doing the 1/4 mile in the high 12's. Which is slow nowdays, but was pretty darned fast in the early 70's.
Humility in defeat, superior quality sir. I wish others could show their trial and errors. Rather than acting smug or portraying next to godliness.
You guys literally make the most useful videos and they’re so entertaining
Camera Girl is the gold on this channel. You two are way too cute. But I'm in. Great vids kids!
You can also check for leaks between the engine and the transmission by putting some castor oil in your transmission then running the bike. If you smell castor oil being burnt you’ve got a leak between the transmission and the engine. Little tech tip I learned in school.
No pain no gain !!! Looking forward to next episode
You just set back the motorcycle industry 200 years with your slop bucket mechanical technique!
Dude is super humble about his mistake. Respect.
Don't sweat it,it happens to the best, I had a 83 or 84(can't remember) Cr 250 I bought locked up. It had been setting for about 10yrs . Rebuilt it and got running but it was running erratic and lean. Beat myself to death before I figured out the crank seal behind the magneto had just decided to pop out.lol.
I love how you test the bike in a closed workspace instead of taking it outside!! haha
i have been watching your show love your comedy you and your wife doo seeing her rid that scoter that made me happy to see I just got on last Sunday $1500 bike i talked him down to $650 for 2005 klx 300r indo it runs good motor new just bel replaced no brakes i need to hook up rear master brakes lights it needs brakes seat body panels the bikes you work on look much better than mine
Use self tapping screws into the seals to pull them out without splitting the cases. Also the exhaust and silencer packing will be saturated in oil so will still smoke bad untill it’s all burnt off or cleaned. Keep up the good work, love watching ur videos!!
Loving all these videos lately. I really hope to see more projects soon :)
It's gonna be a epic street -trail bike once you get the bugs worked out..great video guys!!
I'm feeling pretty amateur right now I don't make comments but it will be cool to see you guys getting 50 or so miles per gallon together ! I had to look up how to spell amature
I would have done the same thing... now it's time to rip it apart and make it new...I'm looking forward to the project good luck...
Been watching from 🇬🇧 interesting and looking forward to see it running properly. Keep uploading 👍🏻
Thank you. It is getting closer.
I really enjoy watching you and your family..thanks
You're going through what I'm going through. A love for old 2 strokes and then the realization that unless it's running great, and even if it is, it probably needs to be rebuilt. And not just piston and rings damn seals and main bearings. Then heaven forbid your rod needle bearing is toast cause some of the old air cooled ones they don't even make cranks for anymore! Anyways, can't get enough of your channel!
“Is this table sagging, or is it just you?” Got me crying 😂
Was happy when I woke up to c u guys put up a new video
Shit happens man, it's nice to see it's not all rainbows and sunshine each time. But we are still learning and developing which is awesome! Thanks to you two for the videos.
jake buddy we are here to watch amateur that's a big chunk of the appeal. loving the addition of the mrs to the videos more regularly.
Your wife is a sweet heart good for you dude.
When you tear into the engine it would be a good idea to service the power valves. That gen of KDX is infamous for stripping the teeth off the aluminum subvalves which will make it run like junk on the top end. Can't buy new ones anymore but a guy in the UK makes steel ones that should last forever. Unfortunately they cost more than you paid for the bike!
I'm not a mechanic type guy but damn I enjoy watching your work.
run it without the silencer on the expansion chamber. heck your expansion chamber might have alot of oil and need to be cleaned too
Cody Jv yep, I'm betting the expansion chamber and muffler are full of oil. He needs to wash them out as well as possible, then take it for a long hard run to blow and burn the remaining oil out. Of course, after he changes the seals. I have a Suzuki rm250 a customer brought into my shop, his "bike expert" rebuilt the top end 6 times this summer, it would not idle, and would stay revved high for a long time after the throttle was blipped. He was told by the "expert" this was normal. I knew what was wrong as soon as he told me what it was doing. After I split the cases, I found the flywheel side crank seal was installed crooked, and the "expert" goobered it with silicone sealant in an attempt to fix his mistake. This caused a vacuum leak, which made the engine run lean, causing piston damage. Its getting new piston and rings, new crank bearings and seals, and top and bottom gaskets. About $250 for parts. I'm doing a video about it next month, showing the damage and the correct way to rebuild it.
Closer to reality than any reality show I have ever watched.
i never had to split my cases to replace a crank seal if you carefully drill a small hole into the seal then put a screw barley into it you can pull on it with a slide hammer or gentle taps to yank it out :)
I'm not trying to be a smart alec here and this video is years old so I'm sure you've fixed this looong ago. But I wonder how the fuel oil mixture is? I'm sure he's not gotten it wrong but I'd start at the source. Man Jennie (I assume that's your wife's name) is just awesome! You guys are a great team and make for fun watching. You are blessed sir!
you and your wife seems lite the coolest type of people. keep it up up :)
Always happy to see a new video.
You should contact PBS because you are the Bob Ross of dirt bike repair. 6:38-6:55
ha ha thanks
Well, the oil won't hurt anything so no extra damage, the bright side :-D.
And the compression is great so it should go like a rocket.
Not wasted time, just usefull research and diagnostics lol :-D
Doesnt really damage the bike as you say, but the exhaust will be full of oil
It's a two stroke, the exhaust is used to oil LOL :-D
zx8401ztv Yeah, but it will be more oil than normal though
a little oil will stop it rusting, it will clear when its had a good run
Jusb1066 True, but I use more than 2% oil, and its kinda a mess xd The engine can't burn it all so it ends in the exhaust, I took it off and empty it, turned it around and it came out xd
i've had same problem.. i took all the transmission oils out, then half a bottle of cocacola it cleans seals etc, then you take cocacola out when you had it laying there about 2h andddd then you put transmission oil back in the chamber and it runs beautifully (edit) You don't have to split the engine cases to change a right-side crank seal!
if you take off the right side cover, the clutch basket and primary drive gear, you can sometimes drill and thread a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a slide-hammer.
hope everythings OK. really enjoy/miss your videos!
Just watched a few of your vids, looking to get into fixing up used bikes myself. You have my sub! Well done on the video you and your wife are awesome!
Thank you so much for this video because I notesed when I change my oil on my 2001 Suzuki rm 125 less oil came out then I put in but I didnt know if this was normal and I don't have the $300 for a professional to look at so you saved me money thank you
I kinda love this guy i mean his sense of humor und methods to test the engine is brilliant! :D
Good job dude keep on :)
Hey, at least, now you know. Nice job on the engine swap anyway. I appreciate your sharing what you know here.
No shame in failure bro, failure is the first step to success!
At least we got a few laughs out of an entertaining video!
Heidi Klum had a problem with a seal too... but it didn't get her down... (boom-tiss-tah!!) great series so far, can't wait for part 6, camera girl is ruthless with the burns, she's a keeper!
she totally blew a seal on that one
...I see what you did there... you're implying that Heidi had dirt bike problems at the time too!... ;-P
yep, she was sure smokin at the time
...ha ha... I don't know where to go from here... touche! you win!
she recently split her seal, which is unfortunate for a older german model
Definitely fun to watch and always educational as well. Thanks Jacob!
The real mystery is how you keep your sparkling white t-shirt sparkling white after removing 2 engines, swapping out pistons, and reinstalling 2 engines.
mdwdirect it's a fine art that takes much effort and skill
Oxyclean
i was eyeing the same quandary ...lol Only two drips on it..
Happens to everybody. Only everybody don't make great video's.
Good video, very informative, even with the bad outcome. Sorry for your luck!
I think most 2 strokes end up being sold cheaply because of crank seals going bad and the owner cant figure it out... instant deal for someone that knows whats wrong and how to fix it. Usually, the easy way to find out is to take the mag cover off like you did and if theres fuel in the cover, then that seal is bad, and you can assume that the other is bad also. Its a good idea to change the main bearings when the seals go bad- even if they "look" and feel good, they will not be as tight as new bearings.
Enjoy the vids and great banter. Keep up the good work.
Whether it works right or it doesn't, I love watching your vids. And I'm not a motorhead.
Wow that vacuum trick! I learn so much new things. Thanks!
Your videos are honestly really fun to watch ! Keep it up! 🤘🏼