I Built a Split wheel Motorcycle, But will it work?
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Hey guys, just wanted to say that the reason for the bouncing up and down is due to the change in leverage. Since one of the wheels is further back it has more mechanical advantage over the suspension due to the increased distance of the swingarm
thank you for making this comment for someone who works on motorcycles this much im very surprised he had no idea why it was doing this its about the most simple explanation ever
It was such a simple conclusion, I was almost yelling at the video saying “you have two different leverage points, one hard, one softer”.
Yep... Old Archimedes could have told him what was wrong and he'd never seen a motorcycle.
They even mentioned how the wheel base would change constantly
Completely off base comment above with 3.5k likes. Actual explanation of the problem, 33 likes. GJ people
Hey guys, self appointed B&B R&D Engineer here: I think part of the issue is the transition of one tire to the other. Perhaps in the example videos, their design wasn't a precisely half of a wheel but instead 60% (or something) so that both tires would have larger contact with pavement during transition. Right now with tires being 50% there's only the ends of the tire touching pavement and essentially squishing because there isn't the same distribution of weight as say the centre of the half tire compared to the end of a half tire. So perhaps the solution is to make the tire completely solid somehow so it doesn't squish and create a hop; that or a combination of cutting the wheel at 60%. BUT WAIT, there's more, MAYBE the suspension itself is an added obstacle and simply making it a hard tail like a road bicycle would remove the need to work around the suspension.
This makes a lot of sense
I also think the space between both back wheels is negative, basically making a longer wheel
Problem is suspension when the point of weight changes
i know how to do it better, don’t😂
The 60% wheel idea ... 4 good motorcycles into one bad motorcycle.
Sounds twice as good! :)
on the bounce. the longer the frame, the more sag you have in in. your frame is going from 5 ft to 6 ft and back again, constantly. not to mention the tips of the tires aren't properly supported and so will bend more than the uncut middle adding even more bounce and reducing the time you have before the tire overheats from flexing.
Guys you shouldn’t have cut the tires completely in half only a 3rd of each wheel should have been cut out, other than that please try this again 👍
just wanted to say that the most posible reason for the bouncing is due to lack of Blinker Fluid, very common on those bikes 👌
Yep
It's a dealer secret, they never tell you that!!
oh yeah yeah
No, it’s because one tire is bigger than the other.
oh yeah yeah
I think you guys achieved making a motorcycle feel like you're riding a horse again.
😂
A horse with an even bigger appetite and severe arthritis
I feel like bro wasn't riding a bike bro was riding a horse
You guys rock, pure humor along with ingenuity.. can't beat it.
You really should ride into the local dealer. I need you guys to check out my bike I think something's wrong with it it's not riding smooth anymore.
The suspension will compress more when the weight is being suspended on the different axles. It's like holding a weight close to your body and then trying to hold the same weight at arm's length.
The only fix that springs to my mind is to in some way have the 2 rear wheels have independent suspension. That way, you can adjust each to compensate for the differing load.
Or just don't have suspension 🤷🏻♂️
Or just don't have suspension 🤷🏻♂️
or mount the rear tire on a slightly downward facing angle, so when the rear comes in contact with ground and the suspension compresses, the travel is compensated
The tires could be mounted side by side, this would remove any mechanical advantage because that is what I was thinking too.
or having suspencion in the middle, betwen the 2 whells
the suspension is engineered for a specific swing arm length, when you transition to the half wheel in the farthest back the swing arm is basically longer and the lever effect on the suspension is greater, so it compresses more and so on.
Hard to digest at first, but after you said lever effect, suddenly I can imagine that easily. Nice explanation.
Absolutely. Can't understand why these guys didn't see it. It's really obvious.. Having said that, I can't think of the cure.. you'll have to constantly change the suspension mounting point, or perhaps removing the suspension altogether.
Making it a hardtail, Harley style??
Fix would be to somehow have the suspension attach between the wheels so each wheel is same distance from the pivot.
The solution would also be to replace the suspension with rigid steel beams.
69th like
Your rearmost wheel has to be in line with the swing arm. Youll have to find exact centre where the swing arm rotates on the frame and have it in line with that and the other wheel
I’m loving this motorcycle/e-bike/emoto side of TH-cam… y’all are crazy man
This was amazing! The bumpiness is due to the two wheels exert different leverages on the swingarm due to different distances from the fulcrum (point of rotation). Thus the spring compresses more when the weight of the bike is on the wheel that is farther away from the fulcrum, and less when the weight is on the closer wheel.
exactly. one wheel has a longer "arm" or moment, allowing the bike to compress the spring more. do this on a bike with no rear suspension and you shouldnt have an issue
this is what I was thinking too, they even mentioned that it might be a problem in the video but I think they misunderstood how it would manifest when riding it
My thought as as well.
THIS !!!!
I was hoping someone would of pointed this out in the comments
Instead of cutting the tires where you want them leave a bit more rubber on each end then bend that piece back so the loss of contact with the ground is more gradual. Also suspension to the end would keep it in contact better. Excellent video
Needs another set of tires to balance wieght
yeah, i was thinking, if it is suspension, then bring some arms up to the back of the seat with shocks, also, maybe cut the tires by a bit less than half, so they both are in contact at each end
@@barrontrump3943 you don't need to balance each wheel, you can under-load them, and then have each's lever arm balance....but that gets mathy.
I think you achieved making a motorcycle feel like you're riding a very fantastic bike
Guys you all Are FUNNY 🤣😂😂😂
I LAUGHED ALOT ON YOUR EVERY CONVERSATIONS WITH EACH OTHERS....!!!!!
Man....my stomach ache due to too much laughing....😅😅
That is truly remarkable. You have managed to bring back the galloping effect of riding a horse while achieving the speed of a modern motorcycle. I am impressed. 🙃 LOL.
If you can market this you will reach two markets at the same time....The Equestrian community and the Motor Sports community.
The real challenge is to make it look and feel like a horse on one half and a modern motorcycle on the other half. I'll leave it to you to decide which half to change.
Respect. Keep doing what you do. It is a lot of fun to follow along.
God Bless
Don't let the EPA see this
Speed of modern . motorcycle I doubt that
Lol so far horses are faster than this one but soon maybe
I hope he sees this bro. Im rooting for your date.
i think the bouncing in the suspension is from the difference in leverage on the back tire from the axel from that of the front half tire
I believe your right the rear axle needs lowered a little
The trailing edge of the front drive tire is collapsing, while the rear tire comes around with no weight on it making it taller than the other tire when it contacts the ground. They need stiffer tires or possibly there has to be a time of overlap where both tires are in contact with the ground, to get rid of the weird weight transfer
No, I think with modern tech you could make it possible to tail whip a motorcycle. It probably wouldn't be cost effective in anyway but it could be done.
Also, if you bent the ends in on each side a bit more you could achieve a flush surface w/o a the bumping up and down. It's the initial contact that is causing this issue, so if you make the intro and outro curves more severe you can bypass that a bit.
18:33 Damn that was the trippiest thing I’ve ever witnessed that wasn’t a digital illusion 😂 I think if you offset the back wheel to be a little higher maybe even lower it should ride smoother.
You get more leverage to compress the spring when it's riding on the rear wheel, kinda like when you're closing pliers, then it's easier to do when you're clamping on the end of the handle.
You could get rid of most of it by simply just riding without a spring and welding the whole thing so it doesn't have any suspension travel, or you could stiffen the spring.
Also, as another commenter said, you should have 55-60% of the tire left, so you get a smoother transition.
spot on man. I was thinking you put it on a chopper since they don't have suspension usually anyways. I didn't think of the 55-60% of the tire left, but that would probably help a lot too
100% correct, torque is a matter of force multiplied by distance, the further away the centre of the wheel is from the spring (rear-rear wheel is further than rear-front wheel) it will increase the amount of torque the being applying to the shock mount, therefor compressing the spring more on the rear wheel causing that bump effect.
the only way to completely eliminate this effect is by not cutting the wheels in half (no point in the video), welding/removing the shock (resulting in a bad ride) or have a hydraulic spring, changing the compression force to suit the torque each wheel is producing to the spring (extremely complicated - if its even possible)
if you were to have 55-60% of the wheel, it will make the torque transition smoother (correct again) but it will still have the same peak applied torque when there is just 1 wheel on the ground, which will only be noticeable at low speeds. at higher speeds, the slight extra length in circumference will become negligible
@@DeepCarrot The 55% was just to get a smoother transition in general and not for the spring compression thing
That's exactly what I am thinking too.
Yeah if anything was deserving of the "do not try at home" title this is definitely a winner! (It's much more fun to do it at work anyways ;) ) Didn't expect it to be able to start galloping like a horse LOL
hampter
Dude I could not legally agree more. This thing screams at the top of its lungs, BAD DECISION!!! Kids and everyone else for that matter, don't try this at home. These morons are actual pros at being morons. Let them hurt themselves. Then learn from their mistakes
Just 1 q. Why?
Biker and bread do have drilling lubricant
It doesn't overheat
@@slickatoe well, you'd think that's the stupidest thing in the world but today i'll have you know i scraped the ice off my gixxer thaw 2001. it was all good till i hit second and it suzuki'd all over the street.
I see someone actually drilling a pilot hole? Automatically 10x better than any others channel in this lane
It would be such a blast to spend 3 months completely over engineering this and spending probably the same as a new bike on it 😂 great video loved it
You should be able to fix the bouncing by welding a support trust the the frame under the seat. The back wheel is twice the distance from the shock so it has twice the leverage and need half the force to compress your suspension
I feel like you would have a lot more credibility if you knew how to spell truss.
Weld the back suspension up is probably the simplest idea, the support truss would only strengthen the back end from falling apart during vibration it wont stop the bumping due to leverage on the suspension. They need to either weld the back suspension up, or change it to an old style dual shock where is connects to the vey back axle, going to be a bumpy ride either way.
Yeah, the bicycle was a hard tail, that's why.
You got it.
That's what I was thinking when the suspension compresses it lightens the load on the farthest wheel! Putting that long arm up in the air sort of? All-in-all at least it was! LOL
Kind of surprising?
i was thinking the same thing. i could not understand how they could not figure it out. it took me just couple of seconds.
Hey guys, this one was wild!! Haha
So, I’m commenting as I watch so if you say the answer in the video I haven’t made it that far yet!! But to the dropping dilemma, the swing arm is longer and the shock is in the original spot. When on the back tire your weight is increased due to the leverage of the extended arm. Essentially when on the back tire you are much heavier. Pretty sure that’s a big part of why it’s happening!
Thank you, finally someone who understands physics
I was searching for this before I said it Thank You.
Same thing i was thinking, so simple
yep, agreed. weight is the same but the leverage on the pivot point moves back and forth
I concur with this assessment!
Try putting the pivot midway between the two tires with chain driving both from sprocket at pivot point. Would be fun to see result.
I have seen this rigging on conveyers my whole life. It always worked fine. I saw it on amusement park rides too.
Yep, you need to change the suspension geometry so that it has a strut on the back wheel at a minimum. Otherwise, the weight will always be balanced towards the middle wheel, which means there will be a weight shift each time the wheel changes. Cool concept, though!
needs to be placed between both rear wheels otherwise the center of mass will still primarily be on the front of the rear wheels, causing the middle wheel to compress and leading to the same leveraging issue, albeit to a slightly lesser extent. You got the closest out of anyone in the comments i've seen so far though so gw.
You actually could make an independent rear suspension version but it would require redistributing the weight and altering the frame and completely changing the suspension geometry etc.
Exactly this, and I'm thinking at higher speeds the centurial forces are going to put different leverage on the swing arm, that problem would also be fixed by strutting the back wheel
@@hell_pike9150 at higher speeds the rubber is expanding and flying off.
No no no the ONLY problem is they forgot to balance the tires after mounting.....duhh
The reason it was bouncing was because they did not correctly extend the swing arm, the new length they added was on an entirely different axis than the bikes stock swing arm. Having a strut like what you're talking about would not do anything but likely make it worse, if the extension was able to pivot freely, sure the strut would do it's job. In the end of they 100% extended the swing arm keeping the axle points on the same axis it would be perfect.
Use 60% (as others said) and the hardest solid tires you can find (like indoor forklift tires), your bumpyness will diminish some.
It's bouncing because of the different leverage the different lengths of swingarm have on the spring as the weight changes from tire to tire. The weight of the wheels is also changing back and forth between sprung and unsprung weight at different points on the swingarm/lever. Also..., the front tire becomes additional weight while off the ground but the rear becomes a counter weight while off the ground. In other words the weight felt by the spring is changing.
OR he could make it look like a horse
Exactly. Physics - the angle of the force keeps changing.
Came here to say this. You can even see as the forward tyre makes contact with the ground the bike lifts as it's pushing against the suspension at a steeper angle, and relaxes back down as the weight goes on the rear tyre.
I should have read further before adding my comment, as you have already covered the idea. Running the tires side by side would be the only way to possibly completely eliminate the gallop. Even adding hard tires wouldn't kill it completely in it's current state as the different lengths of the armature where the wheels are attaches would react different to the centrifugal force created by the off balanced wheels. Even side by side this could be problematic since the wheels would be attached to a perpendicular axle that would cause wag instead of a gallop. The only way to make it efficient to any usable speed (for a practical lifetime for a motorcycle) would be to add a third parallel wheel and weight the rims with enough precision to stabilize the centrifugal force between the three.
@@theukdave2433 Yes ... I believe you can fix this by making one of the rear half-wheels a larger or smaller (original) diameter than the other...as to how much and which one...???? Havn't thought enough about it yet...LOL
I learned so much watching this one video. Mostly remembering shyt iv already learned just forgot and great ideas lol
I want more! If it could be completed I would definitely get one to show off at Myrtle beach iykyk 😆👍🏽👍🏽
That's a pretty genius horse simulator you've made there. Gotta dress it up to look like a mini horse. Hilarious.
and to think you only needed a quarter outside kmart until now! lol
I think the reason for the bumpyness is that because of the leverage from the extended controll arm. So if you move the suspension to in between the rear tires it should get a little better, but i think the best solution is just to remove the rear suspension, it would be a harsh ride but
You are talking about a rear articulated carrier and yes that would work perfectly
That is exactly what I wanted to write down here. Make the suspension much stiffer and probably will be less bumpy. But the other fact that the middle of the tire will be stiffer compared to the end point of the half will also have some effect. So this will never be a smooth ride I guess.
I think the problem is not the stiffness. The problem is that the center of both rear wheels have different vertical positions, because the holder isn’t parallel to the street. If the holder of the rear wheels would be absolutely parallel to the street it would not be bumpy.
That was exactly what I was thinking
@@faindone there would probably be a difference with stiffer suspension, but not much. There is some truth in what you're saying👍
I was thinking maybe the differents of length between your sprockets effect the timing of the wheel rotation.
And would customize the enertubes to fit in so you can adjust the pressures accordingly. Loved the video
"It's almost like riding a shake weight." was my favorite line from this entire video.
the little extra touches in the edits are really sweetening these vids. the butter knife thing and sean flying round the workshop with pipe arms. love it
agreed, the production value is always improving!
and the gloves being thrown at him and just popping on
2 possible fixes. 1) Hard tail. 2) Need to move the spring. There will be a spot on the swing arm where the weight of the unloaded tire will balance the leverage difference of the loaded tire which is where the spring needs to be attached. You may have to also counter balance the wheels too but they balance each other out. It's too early for me to work that physics out lol
O believe you are onto it but and even easier fix might be to just correct the angle of the rear wheel. They also should have cut the wheels just a little bigger then half because the low point seems to be where the wheels join in the wheels are touching because they're not solid so it might be creating a flat spot. ( ) like that.
@@bennyrest9122 yes but the leverage difference is the biggest problem
I used to engineer suspension for Ford... 1) Hard Tail. - Assuming you don't need suspension, this is the best answer. Great job, I would choose this one. 2) Move the spring. - What happens is you find that spot, then you have to manage an oscillating force on the wheel plane for the rear two tires. This would require more weight and parts to manage. Basically, making a single wheel for efficient.
@@Invincibletro do you reckon it also had to so with the face that when the wheel is full it is a circle but wheb it is cut it is no longer and circle and has a flat spot which could also help woth this. C O imaging the C was slit at the top because essentially its a circle if the middle point is removed on the jointed together side. Or do you think its specifically only suspension. I thought it was only suspension at first but I looked closely at wheb it Bobbed and it was wheb the wheels where like this ( ) as upset to while either of the wheels was on the ground.
@@bennyrest9122 When the wheels are like this ( ) this is the exact moment the length of the lever changes, When they are ( ) the lever is the distance between the closest axel and the pivot. What you might be seeing is the A arm angle does change immediately when this transfer happens, lowering the closest axel, or raising it instantly between the transfer between the two levers.
If you want it to be smooth, you need to extend the rear swingarm out to the center point between the two split wheels and put the split wheel assembly on a pivot at that center point. However, why stop at 2? Make it 6 split wheels, each 45deg and phased so that 60deg of wheel is on the ground at any moment.
Your grand Pah Knowlegde is amazing. "We are too stupid to give up!" xD
Thanks for the video. S2
This man's actually going for a world record first!
Without Guinness!
we dont need them to do great things!
I think some Guinness is required in building something this 😧
They sent this guy's photo to Ripley's they said they don't believe it 🤭
More like Darwin Award
It's a ripoff
The nervous laughs as he was testing it out 😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
Can´t await the Chineese copy...
Shiting bricks!
Don't show this to the Busa Boyz
You need to put the strut between the rear wheels somehow so that the leverage is the same for both half wheels
Cool video
Sean, you need to do it to the front wheel as well. That will smooth it out for sure.
😂
im a motorcycle engineer, can confirm
I agree, but then mount two more half-wheels on either side outboard of the fork
I have a masters degree in mechanical engineering and I approve of this suggestion/comment!! This is -Thēē- solution! 🎉 bravo 🎈🍾 👏🏼 😊
Like it says in ...........2nd Opinions 3:5....... "Let's Don't and say we did"
The fact that they went frame by frame with the butter knife at 13:32 makes me appreciate these guys so much 😂
Yes, all 5 of the frames XD
I'm glad you pointed that out I never would have went frame by frame. Attention to detail in these videos is 10/10.
It's not crazy if it works! Can't wait to see if this actually happens!
Y’all are definitely Lancaster Co. PA boys. You said the spray foam looks like woopie pie filling!!! Love y’all’s Bible verses you throw in too! Beautiful touch.
Not a physics major, but I think the added length of the arm going to the backmost tire is increasing the overall torque applied to the suspension. So as it switches it compresses more
Exactly ,
Agreed. They need to replace all of the suspension, including the front, with solid steel/aluminum. Its going to ride like crap but even if the front suspension compresses, it will cantilever the furthest back tire higher and drop down onto it so there will still be that vibration while riding. Smoothest ride will be with no suspension compressing at all.
Yes the easyest solve is to remove back suspension, or increase front
The bicycle works because there’s no suspension
Should have used the OCC bike. No suspension, no problem.
I absolutely love these guys. Not only are they entertaining as hell, but they truly are good people and always send positive energy through their videos. I’m a Hugeee fan, and I just have to meet these guys someday. 💯👍🏼👍🏼🔥
Heck they are Christian lol
I live around 20 minutes from their shop but their hours conflict with my work day so I’ve never been able to visit
@@bigballmagrawl0929 who knows, they still might be nice.
Yes I love that they are Christian. These guys are the best. And yes I’ve worked at a motorcycle dealership for years, ppl don’t realize how much skill and work actually goes into some of these projects!
@@MikeyritZ satans temple mechanics are also really talented.
This is cool, I’m building a 3 wheel mini bike similar setup to before you cut the rear tyres..
honestly one of the funniest videos ive seen in a while thanks
Who else is here early to see if it works
Literally everybody watching the video?
I'm 4 minutes in I think it won't.
Compliments to your parents on the choice engineering of your name
Me
caught me
I think besides the tires not being solid on the ends and not being 200 degrees, and not being timed perfectly, that they also need to be counterweighted (balanced) It's easy to think them being horribly out of balance is OK because they cancel each other, until you realize they arte at different moments on the swingarm so they are pumping the swingarm up and down.
The frame also needs to be a rigid like the bicycle because the two wheels present different leverage points on the suspension.
I say if at first you get mixed success, try, try again!
That should do a lot. Right now when the rearmost wheel has contact and the other doesn't, the lever arm is long. When the front rear wheel has contact, the lever arm is short. Shock can't compensate that kind of force difference. Get rid of the fulcrum I'd say.
They need to leave the bike as is.
Literally reinventing the wheel. I love it.
On general, guys, The best way for how to prevent speed wobbles on motorcycle before you ever leave home is to do regular bike maintenance. Frequently check components of your bike such as its suspension, aerodynamics, steering damping, and wheels, especially if you purchase used motorcycles.
Im not sure how to solve it, but the issue with the bouncing/raising up and down is because when the REAR rear tire is on the ground there is more leverage being used to compress the suspension, but when the FRONT rear tire is down theres less leverage, causing the suspension to compress less than the other wheel does. So if theres a way to mod the suspension to be farther back it should lessen the issue. Love this video 🖤
OR he could make it look like a horse
@@sycecraft i support this message 😂
This is the issue. the fact that one tire is further back causes the bucking issue. How you could mad this so the spring is in between the 2 forces I have no idea. (note the spring needs to be between the forces not between the tires.)
This....
One solution would be to replace the suspension with a fixed (strong) rod. The swingarm would no longer move, but the handling might suffer a but from that....
My take on the bumpiness:
There is a force difference when each half of the tire makes contact with the ground because of the lever effect. The rear-most tire half will have less downward pressure on it than the forward tire half which sits naturally almost right under the rider. The increase in wheel base might also contributes to some flex in the frame, specifically the welded on piece. Wouldn’t be surprised if it would eventually crack from exhaustion.
Combined with another guy who mentioned the ends of tires being more flexible than the middle of them, this can easily create a bumpy ride.
I love that it looked just like riding a galloping horse.
Simple vibration from half wheels and unbalanced weight. That's literally how vibration motors work.
Out of balance bro. You make a good point though, each tire should be longer on one side to hit the pavement before the other leaves.
Hey guys, just wanted to say that the reason for the bouncing up and down is due to the change in leverage. Since one of the wheels is further back it has more mechanical advantage over the suspension due to the increased distance of the swingarm , make the back suspension in center of both tire's
3:16 Using expencive tools like that on steel while having a drill press next to you is when you know they dont care about money
I think strengthening the swing arm will help as any flex with the back-rear wheel contacting ground will cause the front-rear wheel to essentially be below the ground level when it returns to contacting.
Also counterweighting the wheel halves should help a lot too
I was thinking that if they relocated that rear shock over the center of both wheels that it'd be easier and better for the suspension to take it in and maybe less of a rough ride.
Well one things for sure…nobody else is making videos like this! I love it! Well done! You guys are TH-cam GOLD!
someone did it already
Wait. I get a Bible verse with my chop-shop madness video? Awesome.
1. The swing arm extension is acting like a cantilever causing bending due to the support from the suspension being placed so far from the 2nd sprocket.
2. When the load from the bike shifts from the first tyre to the second tyre, it causes a massive jump in the radius of the moment torque in the swing arm, causing the force at the suspension to go up and down, which in turn increases the bouncing caused by the bending in the swing arm.
The only way to deal with this is to introduce another suspension system onto the second sprocket, which should be an equivalent mass system of the entire first suspension system, so they work exactly the same.
Lots of respect for having such a successful bike channel! There are not many out there and you guys do a great job!
Wow, it actually worked... Awesome!! Strengthen the extension arm, I'm sure it flexes when weight is on the back tire. Like another comment said, make it a 60% wheel instead of 50% so the transition is smoother. Fill the tires with the densest foam you can find before you rivet them. And counter balance the tire as best you can.
replace the rear spring for a strong pipe, when going over from the 1st to the 2nd rear rim is good, but because the 2nd rim is further on the same swingarm, "force times arm" is much higher than on the first rim. Hope that you find them useful
The thumbnail gives it all away, but the content is still satisfying!
I'm not into bikes but y'all are so entertaining and so enthusiastic about what you do. Can't help but watch! God bless!
yep same
Craig does it again! ( Sean, I assume was busy doing all the behind the scenes technical stuff) I’m a bike mechanic too and I can’t get any work done because all I do is watch and rewatch you guys! God bless you guys and stay up on two…. Or three…sorta
Next you should build a single wheel bike. It would be interesting to see what you would come up with!
Someone said “you don’t need to re-invent the wheel” to this guy and he took it personally
This was an awesome start to my day. Lots of laughs and such a joy to watch you make the most amazing bike ever! 🤣
This makes the rider look like they're on a galloping horse.. now I get the whole iron horse thing. 😄
You should integrate a auto chain tensioner into that long swingarm. Like an idler pulley. Also use two separate donor wheels so there is slight overlap.
Think about leverage and lever length. As others have suggested, you'll need to change the suspension geometry, otherwise every time the weight transfers to the wheel with greater lever length, greater force is applied to the suspension and the swingarm will compress due to the shift in leverage.
18:36 bro's tire look like they loading
😂
Others have mentioned the issue with the suspension, I just want to mention that a 1 or 2 degree overlap in the tires would make the transition between them a lot less harsh.
I think it would be worthwhile adding some sort of counterweight to each wheel. Something close to the center. Won't be that much of an issue at low speeds, but if you go for higher speeds it'll be necessary for the wheels to be balanced
He just cut the counter weight, which was supposed to balance it
Came here to say this. Because physics.
@@midnightmassiveproductions7451 Didi this same conversation happen in another video about the same sh!t?
The load on the suspension changes as weight moves from the closest wheel half to the rear wheel half due to the leverage on the arms. If the 2 wheel halves were side by side (like a dual wheel truck wheel) it would probably work.
👆
@@user52613 Good point, you are probably right.
That's was my thought exactly. I think the connection between wheels also allows some slop.
Side by side would be a terrible idea. Imagine taking a corner.
@@Mr_Glenn yeah, scratch that for sure. It’s an accident waiting to happen.
Taking "if it ain't broke, break it and do better" to a whole 'nother level!
I have been waiting for someone to put a second back wheel on a bike. Shocked it took this long! Cutting the two back wheels in half I never saw coming! Love it!
I’m already contemplating a t-Rex hill climber out of my KLR.
@@dumntuftv8853 Video, or it doesn't count.
@@jayrowe6473 I’ve got like 5 other projects, I’ll get there!
This build is sick but id like to give some input on the bouncing issue
the reason it bumps is because as you transition to the farther tire the weight of the bike has more leverage on the swing arm compressing the shock more. Then when it goes back to the closer tire it has less leverage so the bike sits higher. I would like to see the shock be replaced with a metal rod at the height where both tires touch the ground as a possible solution to this. Also another reason could be that the edges of the tires are softer than the middle since there is less support due to it being open allowing the bike to sit lower from the tire squishing. maybe as someone else mentioned making the wheels with 60% diameter instead of 50% could fix this.
Overall awesome build and I would love to see it revisisited because I'm confident it could be fixed to ride smoother fairly easily.
The leverage effect is exactly right. If these half tires were side by side on the same axle it would be less of a problem. Each half tire needs needs to be indepently counter weighted.
Yup, more leverage! In the bycicle video there is no suspension so it works. Having slightly more than half the tire might help the transition between them too.
DUH!
Imagine your chain snapping or coming off on a split wheel motorcycle.
This was cool. I wonder if the bounce could be fixed by shaving down the back tire where it meets the ground first enough that when that touches the ground, it doesn't bounce and the middle tire has already made contact with the ground. I would probably play around with each tire until achieving the smoothest possible transition. If it worked it would be one of the cheapest options to try.
Called it from the beginning. The problem with this idea is when the weight is on the back tire the suspension has more leverage on it so it compresses. When the weight transfers back to the front tire the suspension rebounds and creates the bouncing motion. The shock/load needs to be mounted between the two wheels somehow so the leverage affect is equal. Or make it a hard tail. Also making the wheels a little bit bigger than 50% say 60% will make the transition from one to the other easier.
I for one, and for two (kinda nutty like that) am super impressed you actually pulled this off. You do realize the back tire is getting a ton of leverage on you with the suspension. You are going to have to get rid of the rear shock. Once you hardtail it, it should be much better.
It was going up and down because you guys angled the new a-arm extension piece instead of keeping the same angle that the original a-arm was on! Hilariously cool build though!
Bro check for the angle change in both wheel bases and work on that if that can be solved by a separate suspension... That will help. Also, check for the angle change of the last wheel when turning, if that can be solved
Bounce Baby Bounce! Haha 😂 Great job guys! Love the videos! So your bounce is because of leverage being applied to the suspension. The fulcrum point is moving back and forth with the change in drive wheel halves. If you want to keep it a softail you could put an additional spring and shock angled back from the rear of the bike, closer to the rear tire. It would need a stiffer spring rate than the existing spring to balance the compression, so some load calculations will be required. Cheers!
You guys need to have tire support curve that looks kinda like a spade where the most support is where the half tire is supporting the bike all by itself and the support spikes again where the ends of the half tire also have a spike to support the transition from half tire to half tire. I guess it would look like two spades spinning opposite, but you get the idea.
0:55 😂😂😂 the jokes just keep coming and I’m here for it man.
I love this stuff, thanks for making all of this content. I don't have a bike but I really really want one. Keep up all the things you are doing and ignore the critics! Thank you.
The rearmost of the rear wheels has more leverage against the spring (through the swing arm) than the other. This causes the bike to sit lower (as the spring is more compressed) when the weight is on that one compared to the other.
its doing that because there is more leverage on the swingarm when the contact patch is further back, compressing the spring more. when the tire contact patch transfers to the half tire in front, the leverage is less so the spring is compressed less.
Another factor is that the pivot point of the swingarm is lower than the first axle, causing the second axle to be higher than the first and so making the bottom of the second tire higher off the ground than the first. When the second tire takes over, it first has to drop a bit to settle to the ground.
i love how you can tell they enjoyed every bit of this
Just my thoughts are the tire would need to be slightly more than half way in circumference to create a smoother transition from tire to tire. Right now there is a slight gap from the amount removed from the cutting in half portion , you need consider the amount removed from each (even as little as I might be. There still a gap, as well as there is no angle of entrance to help create a smooth transition from tire to tire.
I think you would need to cut 2 tires part the 180deg point for a better blend. Like maybe 190-200 degs. 🤔
And maybe some counter weights???
thats not what is causing it to bounce, thats the shifting lever point on the rear arm but I agree that they shouldnt be cutting the wheels exactly in half, kinda surprised they did it that way. There should at least be a little overlap to ease the transition more
The name of this creation will be "HalfAss"!!!
This would definitely turn heads to see this go down the road! Something that might help a little is to take the slack out of the chain between the rear wheel as there is a push then release as each wheel comes in contact with the road and releases, transferring drive torque from one to the other.
a idler sprocket should easily take the slop out of the chain.