The tach filter is a tach filter. It is not a radio noise capacitor. The radio noise capacitor is inside the distributor next to the module. The tach filter has 2 resistors in series ( approx 10k and 6kohms ) and 2 capacitors to ground. The tach terminal is connected between the primary ignition coil and the module . The coil can draw about 6 amps, and the voltage spikes up and down as the module switches the circuit to ground in a 13 volt to zero volt sq wave. The white wire goes thru the tach filter and goes directly to the electronic dash cluster .
I was always told that the same noise in the line that could cause the tach to jump could also cause radio noise which was a sign that your Ign. module was going bad, but thanks for watching!
After you warm up your car you shut it off, and connect the timing light, DO YOU DICONNECT THE ONE WIRE BYPASS TERMINAL WHEN YOU RESTART THE CAR OR BEFORE THE CAR IS STARTED????
I been having a problem with the distributor moving on me before I can shut the car off to tighten the one nut at the base of the distributor hold down. Any suggestions?
Tighten it while the engine is running. Thanks for watching! Here's a wrench you can try. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tool-1-2-and-9-16-offset-distributor-clamp-wrench-w1189c/9020667-p?product_channel=local&store=6631&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=6631&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_sq2BhCUARIsAIVqmQsf_HNorR1E2LdMVB3uhmgBA_49xzFUujlqWO96T2HiZAEov0WK0jsaAuEYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@84c4corvetteguy5thanks for your help. Does the one wire bypass keep the car from dying out when it's disconnected and your trying to adjust timing???
@@jerrychacon8814 The bypass keeps the computer from adjusting the timing. So when it is disconnected and you adjust the timing it is what's called base timing usually 6° to 8° BTDC and then when you plug the wire back in the ECM/ computer can advance or retard the timing from your base setting. If you try to adjust it with the wire plugged in the ECM will try to adjust it while you are adjusting it so the base timing (starting point) will never be right. I hope this helps. PS: The car shouldn't dye out with or with out the wire connected.
@@84c4corvetteguy5so I did unplug the wire, and adjusted it at 6degrees and the engine was smooth idling, then I had someone in the car shut it off as I held the distributor then I tightened the hold down and plugged in the wire, and restarted the car and it ran rough idle was not good, will the computer adjust it self???
Always good info - thanks!
The tach filter is a tach filter. It is not a radio noise capacitor. The radio noise capacitor is inside the distributor next to the module.
The tach filter has 2 resistors in series ( approx 10k and 6kohms ) and 2 capacitors to ground. The tach terminal is connected between the primary ignition coil and the module . The coil can draw about 6 amps, and the voltage spikes up and down as the module switches the circuit to ground in a 13 volt to zero volt sq wave.
The white wire goes thru the tach filter and goes directly to the electronic dash cluster .
I was always told that the same noise in the line that could cause the tach to jump could also cause radio noise which was a sign that your Ign. module was going bad, but thanks for watching!
@@84c4corvetteguy5 I agree that would be a secondary benefit for using the filter !
After you warm up your car you shut it off, and connect the timing light, DO YOU DICONNECT THE ONE WIRE BYPASS TERMINAL WHEN YOU RESTART THE CAR OR BEFORE THE CAR IS STARTED????
Before the car is started. Thanks for watching!
I been having a problem with the distributor moving on me before I can shut the car off to tighten the one nut at the base of the distributor hold down. Any suggestions?
Tighten it while the engine is running. Thanks for watching! Here's a wrench you can try. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tool-1-2-and-9-16-offset-distributor-clamp-wrench-w1189c/9020667-p?product_channel=local&store=6631&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=6631&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_sq2BhCUARIsAIVqmQsf_HNorR1E2LdMVB3uhmgBA_49xzFUujlqWO96T2HiZAEov0WK0jsaAuEYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@84c4corvetteguy5thanks for your help. Does the one wire bypass keep the car from dying out when it's disconnected and your trying to adjust timing???
@@jerrychacon8814 The bypass keeps the computer from adjusting the timing. So when it is disconnected and you adjust the timing it is what's called base timing usually 6° to 8° BTDC and then when you plug the wire back in the ECM/ computer can advance or retard the timing from your base setting. If you try to adjust it with the wire plugged in the ECM will try to adjust it while you are adjusting it so the base timing (starting point) will never be right. I hope this helps. PS: The car shouldn't dye out with or with out the wire connected.
@@84c4corvetteguy5so I did unplug the wire, and adjusted it at 6degrees and the engine was smooth idling, then I had someone in the car shut it off as I held the distributor then I tightened the hold down and plugged in the wire, and restarted the car and it ran rough idle was not good, will the computer adjust it self???
@@jerrychacon8814 So if you unplug the wire again does the car idle good and is it back to 6°? If so what happens to the timing when it is plugged in?