Valve Adjustment With Motor Running!
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In this video I do a valve lash adjustment with the motor running. It's a 1995 GMC Suburban with the 5.7L motor. I hear slight ticking sound when driving on the freeway and thought this might be the problem.
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DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH AND DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME! DO NOT DO WHAT I DO. THIS VIDEO IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!
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**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
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Earned my living as a mechanic for 35 years, I've performed this job many times. With the engine warmed up, remove covers, install splash tabs/clips on rockers. With engine idling, loosen each rocker till you hear it clatter, tighten just till clatter stops, then tighten one full turn. When the clatter stops, the hydraulic lifter is just beginning to work. The additional turn puts the lifter in the center of its travel. Unless a part has failed, you should not have to do this again. P.S. I am not sure why, but people who were "told things" will put their views out here as if they carried authority, because they think one bit of wisdom applies to all engines. After reading many comments here , I think a lot of "Armchair quarterbacks" have weighed in with opinions. Some of these people are not differentiating between solid and hydraulic lifters, or have confused parts of both methods. And some rockers are pedestal mounted. You simply torque them to spec and the lifter takes up the slack.
Thank you for your input!!
Good stuff
It's a lot of bugie mechanic's with the job
Any tips for an 00 civic I adjusted the valves bit the tapping noise didnt leave just changed sound level not as loud
And that full turn in after valve clatter needs to be done 1/4 turn at a time, turn them in too fast and you'll bend your pushrods, me 40+ years as a mechanic and a USAF Master Technician.
I cut the tops off an old pair of Alum valve covers and use them while adjusting the rockers , works great no oil spilling on the exhaust.
I love that part where you say; "I've never been this deep into the engine before". I sometimes wish that I could say that.
DK. ASE Master since 1978.
So refreshing to hear advice from someone who admits they don’t know it all. Great tutorial and I love the trial and error mentality. This is exactly how I learned on my 350 sbc…so. Much. Fun.
Greg, you ever hear about these little plastic things you could put on the top of the rockers so they wouldn't leak oil everywhere when you would run your car with the valve covers off to check how things were running? at least on 302 or so, dont know if they had them for Chevys, i know i didn't dream this,lol
This has been many years ago, it was something temporary,you would clip them on and when you were done you would take them off,i wish i knew what they are called.
@@dntlss Ive seen these before but dont know what theyre called either. Ive seen some guys cut an old valve cover down so its just the bottom portion and bolt it on to keep from splashing oil. In racing we actually use an oil deflector to direct oil splash onto the valvetrain to keep everything cool and lubricated.
Before you take anything apart, with the engine warm & running, listen to each valve to find the noisy ones. You can easily do it with a long screwdriver (I use a 12" long Philips-head Craftsman) by holding the ball-end of the handle tightly against your ear. Now proceed down the valve cover, firmly pressing the screwdriver tip directly over each rocker arm. You'll be amazed what you can hear! This is great, so you can focus on the sloppy out-of-adjustment rockers.
Great advice .... listen to locate the problem , a screwdriver or a cheap version of doctors stethoscope say ten bucks even better and easier to use , designed for this very purpose.
Before any engine cover is removed for heaven's sake clean the outside of the cover carefully and completely , else dust etc is going to end up in your engine oil . Just spray on some degreaser and wash that off ; do it twice if anything is still dirty , especially around bolt holes . This will not take long ... it will not take long for dirt to destroy your motor once it gets it if you do not ! DOH
Nice to see a young guy take on the challenge of some OldSkool adjustments ...
Im 59 and strange seeing that no OldSkool mechanics like me ''Don't demonstrate what we know'
Was nice watching you 'Tune' your Lifters ... and showing it.
A shame however that you got Scared .. lol ...
You should have continued and Done All of them ...
By stopping you have left behind the Hydraulic Lifters that are slowly losing their 'Bleed Down' Spec ..
By doing what you started you preserve Future Ticking or Over pumped Lifters ...
Thanks for demonstrating but not finishing 👍👍
🇦🇺
I'm nearly 50 years old and the best way to find a clicking rocker arm and adjust them , it's not dangerous to feel of each rocker while it's running. You will easily find the loose ones because you can feel them hit the valve stems an extra time ,then you just tighten it until it stops ticking and I don't go any further if it's already at operating temp. I only go extra if the engine is cold because you're getting a false adjustment because as the oil gets hotter the oil thins and lifters aren't pumped up as tight .
Some things you can only learn from experience. Good info thank you
Careful not to bottom out your socket so it touches the rockers. Just slip it on the nut enough to turn the nut, but not to put pressure on the socket & rocker or it might keep the rocker from ticking freely during your adjustment process.
Underrated comment
Use a shallow socket to prevent that!
Only way to learn...self teaching. Always a risk of a negative outcome, but worth it down the road.
very true..the best teacher is failure.
Agreed. Nobody was born knowing how to fix cars, gotta start somewhere.
Self practice with a manual. Just going at it will work eventually, but hopefully it's not you only ride because lots of lessons require new parts. Especially electronic parts
You can set valves perfect in 1 360° rotation. Speedway had the chart showing from top dead center then every 90° what valves to adjust. Can find it easy I'm sure, circle track guys use this way all the time. It doesn't matter if it's a new cam with lifters that haven't been pumped up or soaked overnight. Use a 0.001" feeler gauge then the 1/2 turn or whatever preload the manufacturer calls for. I've had friends who weren't comfortable trusting the method and insisted on making a mess doing a one at a time running adjustment and haven't ran into it not being dead on. Saves tons of time and it's always nice not messing with the hot oil. It's worked the same if the heads are cast or aluminum. Had aluminum expansion come up with a non believer.
You only want to use this method with stock camshafts. If you have have an aftermarket or custom cam its better to use the EOIC method. This is all due to the timing on the cam and the overlap involved which some of the soon-to-be adjusted valves will be closing or opening already when you rotate the crank into the next position. Although I wouldnt praise this method in the video--"it works". If youre trying to acheive proper seat pressure on the valve the EOIC(Exhaust Opening Intake Closing) works best and is simple to do and doesnt splash oil around your engine bay. The goal is to achieve the proper seat pressure by making sure the adjustment is made while on the heel of the camshaft. Than youll know you have the correct seat pressure at all rpms and dont have to worry about misfires or premature valvetrain wear. Also, if youre having issues with rockers coming loose dont use the factory nuts use Poly-Locks. Us circle track guys use EOIC for the simplicity and accuracy. Plus our hi-volume hi-pressure oil pumps wont even allow us to run the engine with the valve covers off because all the oil would spray out onto the ground let alone having to get around the oil-deflectors to adjust em haha.
My 95 Suburban now has 361xxx miles on it and still running good.
Just found your channel and love your content! I'm not sure if you're aware, or if this is even the case but something to note and pay attention to about later model GM TBI trucks. When GM designed and used these engines, motor oils had high concentrations of zinc and phosphorus in them to provide greater lubrication. The EPA mandated less use of these materials after these trucks were produced and those who run flat tappet cam trucks have been known to experience excessive cam love and lifter wear as a result. One of the early symptoms is valves going out of adjustment as the lifter and cam lobe interface wears. I'm not saying yat is the issue, but it's something to look into and be aware of. I also have a 1999 Suburban with the 5.7. Vortec and love to see people keeping these trucks alive and well. I'll leave a link to an Amsoil article about it, take a look and feel free to formulate your own opinion on the issue. It's all about knowledge, and to each their own! Love your channel and you've got a new sub.
www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/
That light idea is mint!
Great vid! On my boat, I reference the Mercruiser factory manual which suggests using "rocker stoppers"- to eliminate oil spray and reduce the oil from dampening the sound. It also suggests waiting 10 seconds in between each quarter turn (done very slowly) to allow the lifters to adjust themselves after finding zero lash position.
Good to know! Thanks for the tips!! 🤙
Chevy engines have had this sort of rocker arm arrangement since Caesar was a pup. The first engine I ever worked on was an old Chevy OHV six cylinder. The valve adjustment is still the same as it was in the late 1950s. Just listen to the motor and follow the instruction. Tuning those old Chevys was pretty easy.
This is referred to as the Dynamic Procedure! You will achieve accuracy when using it.
Keep in mind that the stud thread pitch, rocker arm ratio and the angle of adjustment nut, will determine the depth of the hydraulic plunger once zero lash has been established.
Many of these plungers will offer a travel of .100" to .150". The goal is to place the plunger at around 1/2 of it's potential travel.
Always use a shallow socket so that the socket will not accidentally touch and push on the rocker arm or the ball swivel.
dude...as an ASE-certified 40 years and GM Goodwrench certified 25 years **** always****always**** adjust the whole valve train..... not just one or two at a time because you put excessive pressure on the camshaft in certain spots and you can wear your camshaft out faster I always pull both valve covers and start on one side back it off till it clicks run it back down till it stops and then give no more than a half a turn most of the time with engines that have high mileage on them I only give a quarter turn after it stops tapping if you tighten it too much you can float valves or collapse a lifter just let that be a rule of thumb always do the full valvetrain whether it's ticking or not when adjusting the valves this puts even pressure on the camshaft hope that helps
40 years and you do not pick up hes adjusting valves on a hydraulic cam engine.
could not adjust taps oil was squirting a foot or more with the clips on it was a bitch
And having been around these same engines since about 1970 I can tell you that's the first time I've heard a story like that!
+Andork, youtube is filled with know nothing idiots like izzynutz. Adjusting valves on a hydraulic roller camshaft while it's running doesn't make any sense in the first place. Great way to ruin a set of ignition wires though.
*DUDE* *_PUNCTUATION_*
Agree with adjusting them all. However, if you can't get the sound after the valve cover is removed, there is a possibility that you have a rocker tapping the valve cover itself. I've seen it many times.
So if it's tapping the cover then what do u do
@@ricardoarias1357 get the dremel out and start grinding or get taller covers
As far as the air filter choice is concerned, I usually buy a filter that is less restrictive-a flash light through the filter material helps with that choice. FRAM makes an inexpensive filter that will keep your intake clean...picks up a lot of dirt for the money. You will have to change it every other oil change, however. Hope this helps.
I enjoy your videos
I like your reasoning and methodology to cure that ticking sound
When tightening down one half turn, turn 1/4 at a time. Nice video, accurate too.
So essentially you're telling us to only do 2 1/4 turns?
@@anglerstube8021 no tighten till there’s no lash or ticking then give it a half turn
The 90's Chevy's are pretty notorious for clicking sounds under the valve covers. My 95 z28 has always done it.
We use to do that all the time in the old days, you can get chips that cover the pushrod holes to deflect the oil.
CLIPS
Sometimes an old hydraulic valve will "click" when it's cold but it will usually go away after it pumps up. No worries. It sounds great. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
As far as the air filter goes.
We tested filter's at the drag strip one weekend in a drag truck the k&n sucked with the k&n lid. Next we did just the k&n better but still lost a tenth. Then we tested a fram 2in element and the truck got back the tenth and gained on more. So now days in all my race and daily drivers I use a Fram 2in air filter
Better air flow is great unless dust gets through. The k&n are really free flowing and the oil catches the dust. Perhaps the k&n was fresh oiled and just needed a few passes to clear it out
You can also use an old set of covers with the top cut out
thats what i do as well
Same here.
The thought that came to mind was maybe put a finger on each one to possibly feel it instead of hear it ticking? I’ve never attempted this either so I’m anxious to try tomorrow: 2018 Ram 1500.
Loosten till it ticks. Tighten back till no tick. Then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn further in. Do all lifters on that side. Readjust other side to match also
They used to sell clips that would clip on the rocker arm where the pushrod is. It would actually cover that area and would prevent oil from squirting all over. I probably still have them somewhere.
if you cannot get that tappet noise to go check your heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold . I had one on a 1979 1/2 ton and thought it was a tappet till I discovered it was the heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold that made the same identical noise, just something to think about.
you should adjust ALL the valves, kind of pointless not to do it after having it apart once already.
I have the same problem with my 89 K1500 PU 5.7 L. At first I was thinking lifter but now Im leaning more towards an exhaust leak. Strange it is on the drivers side too and only hear it on acceleration and not at idle. I tend to hear it more on cold mornings and lessens as the truck warms up. Also running Moble 1 oil. Lots of good info here, let us know if you figure it out.
That sounds like exhaust manifold leak.
And mobile one on a 89 is pointless
Your in such a hot climate your auto book says to use 10w30 and use a zddp additive to protect your flat tappet camshaft.
Also you might want to look at a oil and transmission cooler....
I prefer k&n air filter but you kinda need to know where your ticking is coming from before you assume it's the rockers could be your exhaust at the manifolds or the collector or perhaps slack in your timing chain
These are set to zero lash right? Wouldn’t u be overloading the nm done at upgrade or last maintenance etc. keen to do this just don’t wanna fark anything lol, I prefer to adjust like old school v8 tops off anyway
If you back them off first then no. Also nobody does an adjustment tune-up anymore unless you ask for it
The lifters are hydraulic .That means there is no lash .Derek's adjustment method is correct .If there is still noise you may have a defective lifter.On another note leaking exhaust manifolds make ticking noises that go away after warming up. Hope this helps.
_Love_ the under-hood shop light.
i mean look for yourself in the material in the fram and acdelco the fram seems to be less packed with material then the acdelco btw love your videos keep them coming especially the suburban ones
I have a 94 k1500 and a old man told me to always use ac delco when replacing parts on the motor I didn't listen and used a diff name brand it didn't work very long at all go the ac delco and it's been great ever since so from now on I use ac delco
In that old motor, run shell rotella 15/40 diesil oil, you never hear another lifter noise again. and NEVER put any fram filter, air or oil filter on your vehicle.
First off, you need to have the engine at running Temperatures, then you adjust the lash. Another thing is that you adjust the lash to 1/4 to 3/4 turn maximum, if you're not sure then you can go 1/2 a turn.
Total turns should be referenced to the manufacturer in their shop manual. Some engines require 3/4, others a complete turn, and others a 1/2.
Fleetguard products are used in the most demanding apps like standby gnsets and locomotive and off road mining construction they have everything you need. It wouldn't hurt to get heavy duty upgrades if you travel in high temp and mountains. Get a oil and transmission coolers with
bigger radiator and remote extralarge oil filter to help with heavy duty work
I know yours is Chevy in this video. Which is good. Chevy rules. But I wanted to touch base on the ticking. I've got an '04 Ford. Escape that a ticking noise showed up after running a few minutes. It came and went sporadically. Talking with a mechanic friend of mine, he explained it and told how to fix it. The hydraulic lifters are better and machined more precisely than they were many years ago. That being said, it also created a negative side effect. The hole in the hydraulic lifter is smaller. Which needs CLEAN oil to function correctly. If it gets plugged, the lifter can't let oil out. It becomes a solid lifter (the ticking) until the clog is dislodged from sitting...or cleaning. His remedy. Dump a quart of tranny fluid right in the engine WITH the oil still in it. Run it AT IDLE for NO MORE than 30 mins. Change oil & filter. Use crappy filter. Run for 100 miles. Change oil & filter with your good stuff. Tick "should be" gone. ATF is basically a detergent. It should've cleaned the lifter ports and internal, as well as engine oil passages. Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea Foam work, but read directions and or watch videos on them for valve ticking solutions and engine cleaning with ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil.... Hope this helps. It made my Ford Escape run like new (figuratively) again. No more ticking afterward.
+Jayhere Nice! Lots of great information. Will be looking into that.
There are Oil splash Clips that you can Buy at most Machine shops or you can order them on line. These Clips fit over the top of the Rocker Arms and cover the Oil journal coming through the Rocker Ram from the Push Rods. The more Miles on a Motor the Less the Oil will want to Spray all over everywhere, This is due to ware. Mix a Half a Quart of Transmission Fluid with your next Oil Change run for about 1000 Miles change your Oil, this will Clean the Engine very very Good, ATF is a Killer Cleaner for your Engine and your Fuel Injectors or Carburetor it will clean your Lines, Tank and everything in the Fuel System. ATF is Super High Detergent that's why most people can get away with never changing there Trans Fluid. I use a Half a Quart to a Full tank of Gas about every 3 Months, I have been Doing this Since I was 16 I am Now 65 and have Never Had any Problems, Sometimes Just a Grain of sand or a Piece of Carbon that has Broken off from some where in the Engine can Cause the Tick most people Here. Try the ATF and Most Times it will go away. Oh Yea ATF is Cheaper to use than any Injector cleaner Made and Cleans 10 Times Better. If you Tear Down an Automatic Trans after 100.000 Miles you will notice how Clean it is on the Inside, Its because of the High Detergent in the ATF. I Promos You This does work, My Dad Tough this to me when I was a Kid and Many Other things also. Good Luck.
Garry Harris. Right on have some from 30 years ago !!!
Sorry for the Delay the Splash guards work very well. But I don't see the Need to Adjust the Valves that much. If you have a Valve that is ticking, or what i call is ticking. If you have this Problem of a Ticking and suspect a Lifter Out of adjustment it is Probably some piece of Trash somewhere that Oil is flowing and there is a Slight Blockage. First I would Take the Valve Covers off and do a I/4 of a turn on all Valves Hot or Cold does not make any Difference, Does not need to be Running, if your Ticking is not gone after that, Change your oil and add a Half quart of ATF any Brand, Run as Normal Driving for a Couple Days if this does not change the Ticking now you could have a Bad Lifter or Push Pod. This is what I would Do If I had a Ticking. Usually if you put a Screw Driver, the Longer the Better, On The Valve Cover and to Your Ear you can spot on witch side the Ticking is Coming From and do only that side. The Tolerance on Hydraulic Valves will Allow this With no Problems. A small Piece of Trash Grain of Sand can cause a Ticking. I have Rived a Engine to Max RPM 6 K and the Ticking went away do to oil pressure Dislodging the Trash But this does not always work. God Bless America and Its Disabled Veterans.
standard way to adjust is to spin the rod with your fingers and tighten at the same time until the spin stops then 1.5 turns. That helps cool the valve as those TBI motors had overheating valve problems on exhausts
I've seen that method. Makes sense. 👍🏻
Before you attempt would you just did you should check make sure that you have enough oil inside your engine and use aesthetic scope to pinpoint your issue
My dad showed me this when I was 15. Look into the plugs for the push rods , or use tine foil.
I'm thinking exhaust gasket could be leaking that's the ticking. mine do. same year and engine I have in my tahoe
i agree, check the collector gasket
95 Dakota, but my exhaust manifold has been getting hot lately. Probably ruining my gasket. I'm sure most 95's are getting to the same point.
I totally second this comment as I had a problem with headers and the exhaust leak sounded like valve metal on metal ticking but every time I put my original exhaust manifolds back on the ticking would completely go away, but like an idiot I would buy yet another set of different headers and try those and the ticking would return though less or different tone, ha ha
Or spark plug loose. That's happened to me too
Brandon Long no I don't think so. Exaust gasket really?
Also, have a vacuum gauge hooked up, as well, as an additional source of feedback.
I have the volant cold air intake and it gets the job done the filter is washable so you can maitnice it anytime
Will these bad adjusted rockers cause a misfire?
You should use k&n little bit more to buy but they can be cleaned and reused
K&N is shit. They underfilter everything. Not very protective
Lifter preload, not valve lash. Remember, exhaust opening, intake closing. 👍🏻
Screw something up and life will still go on 😊 don’t worry too much
I've been told to tighten mine like this, only thing is I have to break the cam in as well, so I'm lost on what to do
It’s possible that the rocker ball is worn, When I’ve adjusted Chevy engines like this while it’s running lightly push on the side of each rocker then listen for sound change, tighten slowly until slight bog of the engine then back out quarter turn and you’re done. Oh sometime the rocker stud will back out if they’re the pressed in type.
I've had decent luck with Fram filters as long as they are not exposed to extreme use. excessive dust they will become full and "cave in" sometimes ripping. same thing with cheap knock off cold air filters. Unless you are all highway and strapped for cash, use know high quality filters. Wix makes good filters and Napa filters are restamped Wix. At least they used to be.
I always use frame for my truck but I have a 03 ranger and it does seem to struggle on air I switch to is original acdelco and works and breaths alot better
Remove altogether for optimum flow
AC Delco is #1 for GM
ac delco. buy nothing from fram
Tom Young FRAM IS SHIT
Fram is shit? AutoZone and Pep Boys would beg to differ. Nothing beats 1/8 a roll of single ply toilet paper that has the cardboard center attached to the top and bottom with a hot glue gun stuffed inside of can as an oild filter! It even comes withhalf of it sprayed with bed liner out of a can and preinstalled metal shavings! And because diy customers are stupid, they can charge more than the cost of a good Wix filter for something so cheap, their P&L report looks amazing at every audit. How can Fram possibly be shit? AutoZone covers their entire wall with it and Pep Boys was at least devious enough to change the box.
K&N
Fram makes a few different filters.
Lowest price group of 3 different price groups, yeah they're shit. Tough guard isn't bad, their synthetic filters are cheaper and better than AC Delco, Motorcraft, and WIX. Plenty of TH-cam videos showing all of them apart.
J3GJ and Walmart
But how do I do it with the Chevy 2003 5.3L? It has coils and fuel injectors in the way of the valve cover
That is an awesome idea with the light 👍
Your so lucky the cardboard did not catch on fire, the oil is at very low pressure when the engine is at idle, so there's no need to put cardboard or anything near the exhaust, also to find out where rocker cover or rocker arm is making the noise get a long screwdriver and put it on each rocker arm as the engine is running or better still put it on the rocker cover to find out which side is making the noise if its hard to tell ? cheers :)
Maybe I missed it, but why did you only check one side? Also, I have put my hand on the rockers of Chevy engines to help find the noisy one. You can usually find it unless it is very faint. If not, set them all to zero lash, pack it up, and put it back on the road for another 50k miles.
I prefer replacing parts with AC Delco, though in my 2000 z71 Tahoe OBS, I run a CAI with a K&N. Some people hate Fram, others love them...myself personally I stay away from Fram due to some of the inconsistency I've encountered with their products...as far as K&N, Air Raid, etc.. many people are skeptical of their filtration capabilities. I'm under the impression that they're perfectly fine for on-road use. I'd never use a high flow air filter on my Jeep or anything in an abundance of dirt, dust, sand, etc..
Doing it this way is extremely inconsistent and a practice only used by the inexperienced that don't mind oil all over their engine bay and floor. Take 5 minutes to read how to do it properly so your lifter preload is the same on every valve. What this guy more than likely eventually found out is that even though he temporarily stopped the ticking the actual problem is probably that the cam lobe is flattening and the noise will soon be back. But this guy seems like a good smart dude that is probably new to this and did a good job and kept it clean. Correct lifter preload is anywhere from a half turn to one full turn all mechanics have their own belief on where inside that window is correct. I like them at a half turn so i know it's gonna have preload and be quiet but leaves plenty of plunger stroke range inside the lifter to hold oil and creates good manifold vacuum at idle but up to one full turn is still within the recommended window for proper lifter preload . AC Delco products are what GM uses at the factory and it's absolutely high quality products
Wait till you hear a Hyundai GDI motor. The ticking is pretty loud and normal for those vehicles.
My wife bought one and has owned it from 32miles on the odometer. Around 8,000mi and up, you ain't lying! Lol
That thing ticks like it has the loosest rockers I've ever seen/heard. I talked to the Hyundai guys at the dealership, and apparently that's normal for those engines (especially the 2.4 GDI) because of the lifter to rocker relationship.
A diesel?
This is easy and should be done this way -- you pull valve cover - Adjust all the rockers on that side - do not do less and miss the one that is making the noise -- you should always change the gasket unless want to do it again because a cheap gasket leaked oil. This saves from having to do it 2 times.
Wix filters are the highest quality. Even some acdelco filters may come brand new with rust inside them. Fram is the worst
Subscribed. I'm attempting removing the valve cover to place a new breather/oil fill cap. My rubber ring around the breather/fill cap has melted onto/around where you insert & I'm worried about rubber peaces falling down.
My method is take a piece of cardboard around 1 foot deep and long enough to tuck around the ends a couple inches then slide it down in there 😉. Then I can Rev it and oil just splashes off the cardboard and rolls back into the heads. Also I back every valve off til ticking one at a time. Tighten til tick goes then 1/2 turn
Weird, you have a throttle body but have the dash that gm switched too when they went to the multi port fuel injection vortec in 96. I see these trucks and burbs in the junk yard all the time and have never seen that before. GM doing funky things as usual.
Great video. I appreciate the honesty and the clear explanations. I just subscribed. Keep up the good work & videos.
WOW THIS IS INCREDIBLE!!!
Your gonna have to get a gap Gage and find out what your rocker arms are supposed to be at and that should tell you but only if it's ticing
Hey Jimmy, nice videos, I only have one issue, cartboard + oil + on top of the headers = possible fire hazzard, just my opinion tho
Scott Jones better off spreading hay to catch over spills
@@hellhellya1 and cramming it all down around the motor to soak up spills
Is this possible with the Ford 351 cleveland?
Alright "guys" at 3:28 in we finally get down to the subject matter at hand. The dishes have been washed, the kids tucked in bed, the wife is off playing bridge with her lady friends and now... finally we have arrived at the actual "adjustment" procedure. Overall... good job.
You can pinpoint what cylinder the ticking or knock is coming from by pulling spark plug wires for each cylinder and if the ticking stops when you pull that wire it’s that cylinder
Does that work food bearings as well as valve train noise? I've never heard of this method for anything other than a misfire, either spark or fuel.
My friend start with number 1 cylinder driver's side bank end at number 8 cylinder passenger side bank rear. Back off nut till it's chattering then tighten till it stop's chattering position your ratchet at 12 o'clock tighten it to 6 o'clock that's a half turn. Tighten up all 16. Understand your cam has lobes then lifters sit on top of lobes then push rod's on top of lifters and rockers with pressurized forge spring's . You do just two you'll wear the cam lobes on the two you tightened. Do all and Apply equal torque to all for equal wear.
bullshit
I agree you should do all of them but I highly doubt you'll get any serious wear in the engines life.
They are hydraulic not solid lifters man. I simply dont agree with you there. Cam lobes should not wear. They should always have a small film of oil between both metal surfaces. Lifters should wear first. Only when you up the spring tension and put in big lift cams and special rockers do you run into wear issues, atleast thats my experience.
OK so I changed head gasket on my gmc just got it done went to start an won't start acts like it's goin to but won't does any one have an answer
No. Back it off till you hear clatter, then tighten till clatter stops. Then quarter turn. Depth is set optimally.
Everyone else says 3/4 and one guy who seemed like he was experienced said full turn.
We have been doing this for years ,Bu wait till the Donk ( motor ) is hot and replace gaskets every time .
I have never had any spray from 253 Holden donk good luck . I knoe drive a Subaru Diesel turbo 6 speed manual box dont pay big money for these air cleaners as long as the air cleaner is clear your right you should see the sunlight through it just refit it .
I would use ac deco because it is the factory replacement that is all I use.
I like the other method piston to highest point on each cylinder then tightened till you have no play
This method is good just seems harder. Still excellent video.
I'll take OEM ACDelco over any cheap aftermarket filter. The only time I go with aftermarket parts is if they are performance or better quality than the OEM parts.
You should always turn down the idle screw down as low as possible and it still runs ,then the oil pressure is lower so it doesn't throw as much oil every where
Fuel injection
You have to get the pushrod to zero lash on the base circle of the cam while the engine is OFF and by hand using tools to turn crank... THEN go a full turn..
- not- while its running. You basically have no way of knowing if your lash is over or under adjusted by doing it while its running! This is dangerous and can potentially put alot of wear on the valvetrain/cam lobes. Also theres no point in doing just one, it doesnt take that long to do them all.
Derek Licon Correct. There’s absolutely no reason to adjust one of these running. Been a tech for 28 yrs. Engine off , adjust down to zero lash then 1/2 to 3/4 turn based on your cam builders spec.
You all are wrong. All though you can do it with the engine off, and many do before they install the engine in the car. If your trying to adjust valves while the engine is in the vehicle, there is nothing wrong with doing it this way. In fact many people do it this way. It's faster and if you do it right, exactly how he said to loosen/tighten then you WILL NOT hurt anything in the engine. But if your going to do it. Make sure to go ahead and do all of them. I actually like to tighten all of them a quarter turn before I start to loosen them to help quiet down some of the chatter any loose rockers would make. But IMO this is the best way, easier and faster and COMPLETELY SAFE to do with engine in the vehicle. I was actually taught this in vocational school. It would be different if the engine was out doing a rebuild or something
Oh and getting zero lash while engine is running isn't that difficult. Tighten the nut till the rocker isn't sloppy AT ALL. and then do 3/4 turn. Some people do 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn or a whole turn. Even if you dont get exactly zero lash it will be close enough. There is no possible way you would know a difference
Does this really do anything? This engine uses hydraulic valve lifters so should adjust by themselves. I thought all you can do is torque the rocker arm nuts to spec. This isn't like a Honda where there is actual lash adjustment built-in.
@living in a desert yes, if the engine has a pedestal mount rocker, you torque to spec and the lifter takes the adjustment.
been on there since 1995. so the valves were never checked prior to this video ? I know it has low mileage but still.
That gasket looked pretty fresh and dude said he'd never been in there. I'd bet the previous owner had them gone through
Hoah.!!! That’s a nice sound..! 👌🏼💯👍🏼
A/C delco is better than fram. Also Bosch is really good but they have limited applications.
Put a really long screw driver tip against the valve cover..then put your ear on the other side... you can hear valve ticks directly where they are.. each spot you put the tip of the screw driver will sound different... try it next time your cars running.. move it about an inch at a time.
Should have adjusted all lifters both sides..to eliminate all questions if you got it..If still tics first check is oil presure..if oil pressure low then new oil pump..if that is good. Then it's flat cam or bad lifter..heavy-duty oil and ride it out..
Good luck
The old one looks mint
The ideal way of taking off stuff with a gasket underneath it like a carburetor or in your case a valve cover gasket is no to just pull and yank on it. The best way of doing it if you plan on saving the gasket is by going around the edges and areas where there’s gasket and tapping around and exposing it to impact and shock kinda like an impact wrench. I have found this to work very well in most cases and I have saved Many gaskets using this method
Christian Lucatino no carb on this truck, it’s fuel injected.
Also clean clean clean before removing the cover.
Are you sure the ticking was not the exhaust gasket needing replacement?
can you provide us with the shop light link or name ?
When one has those kinds of engine, most tapping starts with oil changes. When the oil changer is too lazy to prime the filter. Yes, you are supposed to fill the new filter up with oil. This way the engine lifters don't run on empty while the oil filter get filled up. I do my own oil changes and I make sure that filter is full. You might spill a little while you are installing it Is better to spill a little than to end up with a valve tap.
Your not supposed to fill the filter with oil. By doing that your take a chance of putting contaminated oil in your engine always put filter on empty an let the filter fill from engine
@@briancoffey7697 Sorry, Coffey. But, when I took my mechanic 's training, I was taught to always prime the filter with oil. Don't know what school taught you otherwise. I have always filled my oil filter on my 18 year old engine and as of right now, it percolate like new. Hydraulic lifters needs a constant flow of oil or it will end up tapping.Solid lifters may not. But, I take no chances. As far as introducing contaminants to the engine, forget about it.
I partially fill my filters when I do my oil changes(only because my oil filter is threaded side up), but I have a strong argument that it does not madder. There are several vehicles that the oil filter is upside down or sideways from the old usual oil filter that threads upwards. So what about this fact? Not to mention the fact that the oil gets circulated and pressure builds within 2 seconds. Same thing as a cold start when all the oils setting in the pan, the oil still has to get sucked up by the pump, pumped up though the filter and then through the engine. I feel this old prefill the oil filteris crucial wise tail is myth busted by facts.
@@motov8-garage832 I don't pre-fill filters at all, ever. Just don't start the engine and immediately rev it to 6k rpm and you'll be fine. I've been told by numerous diesel mechanics to never pre-fill filters. The oil pump will fill the filter in a couple seconds or less.
@@briancoffey7697 question, if filling the filter from one of the freshly opened quarts, where are possible contaminants coming from?
These comments are funny, all of them are right and wrong. I worked for GM in 1978. Back then the Valve adjustment would be on the low side of the lobe net and then 3/4 of a turn. But the later years the adjustment was done by proper machining, then tighten that nut to a 30 ft lbs or ?. You should check with a machine shop. The ticking is probably a exhaust leak.
I replaced my pcv valve and hose. And now I have a tick coming from the passenger side of the motor, does anyone know what causes this?