Wait, wait, what happened with the intro scene, your animated logo, you talking to the camera, a panning view of your workshop, asking us where in the world are we watching you from, a convincing 2-minute speech on why to follow you and activate the bell, the ambience music, the transition effects, a pet walking by? Is this a youtube video from this universe??? THANK YOU!
That was early TH-cam. The golden era. Simple, applicable and concise. That’s why this video deserves to be: shared, liked and subscribed…don’t forget to comment! lol couldn’t help it. Now it’s unbearable like 80% Idiocracy + AI garbage videos. 😭
I've used my Irwins every day for years and never had any slip problems. But I totally get what you're talking about and I'll watch for it. How to double the working life of my clamps - what a revelation. Thank you.
I was just thinking that, except you'd really have to reverse the other grip pad as well, otherwise you just have a, small piece of metal as the tip of your spreader. Jorgensen makes clamps that can easily be converted to a spreader in a few seconds, without any tools.
@@danstheman33 I just rely on the square plastic bit of the fixed head. I only usually resort to using the clamp as as a jack at times when I just need a quick assist. It's not perfect but, in a pinch, it helps. Now you've suggested turning the fixed head I'll have to take a look at that option.
This is something I'm proud of and many mention...I trust you'll all view my channel differently. I'm a believer in the K.I.S.S principal. I word it "keep it stupid simple!" hoping, "they will come" more lol!
Seems everybody is sick and tired of crap music and constant camera/edit trix every second! Apparently they just want the facts without the "froth" lol I'm good with that 110%@@petersack5074
Great video, thank you. My grips are fine, but I like learning and this is great. Also, a pleasure listening to someone being concisely intelligent and not starting off with weird greetings and hand signals. I like normal.
Thanks a lot, I got three of similar ones nearly thrown away. You saved their lives and reduced waste. Now, even when the other sides is work out, I'd makes my own replacements. (And, if the pin gets lost, use a zip tie.)
Glad I could help! Anything older is worth saving...todays stuff is, well, not so good sometimes, especially when it floats here low and goes home high in the water...or empty.
John that metal slug needs to be almost at a right angle to lock. As you file it with a rat tail file, your elongating the slot which may cause earlier degradation. Also, that won't be good on your file that's hardened material. I have no test data on this so it's truly an unknown just a guess.
Personally, I love the Irwin Quick Grips ! I use them for everything ! I need to also add that I've NEVER had one slip ! However, it is nice to know that if one ever does fail I can fix it !
Well the algorithm served this little gem up to me & im not disappointed. Iv had my 4 little quick clamps for about 8 years now & haven’t had an issue yet, but now that iv sent that statement out into the ether im sure i will have 4 failures tomorrow morning😂 Either way you have armed me with the knowledge to an immediate fix the second it shows any signs of weakness. Funny because I would never had thought to do it, but as soon as I saw the thumbnail I knew exactly the fix you were going to do. Well done & thank you very much
DON'T do that. Wait till they slip so you'll get more time before replacing!! I'm in 20 years before 2 of 30 started to slip but in all fairness I use the hell out of them!
Sweet. I just tried this with my little 6" Quick Grips that I use constantly, and it worked like a charm. I had forgotten what it was like for them not to slip. Thanks for the tip!
Forget about that Irwin clamp; the real star is that prybar, which is a Red Devil from days gone by. My uncle gave me one 40 years ago. What makes it so special? The steel. it’s a hardened tool steel so sharpenable that years ago I actually shaved cast iron off my intake manifold while scraping the gasket off under the carburetor. It’s precious and hard to come by these days. (BTW, ex-wife and I went into a battle over this during the divorce. She wanted my “Red Tool”. I won that battle).
As a guitar builder IDK how many dozens and dozens of times I've struggled to get Irwin clamps to grip tight enough while gluing up parts. I wish a knew this at least a decade or more ago. Sir you are a champion !
There are much better clamps on the market that don't advance even half as far in one squeeze there by making them way more powerful clamps. There is a draw back... higher cost per unit.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I absolutely HATE when any brand of clamp I have starts slipping or gets "glitchy".....this particular style clamp is notorious for being glitchy in my opinion. I have about 7-8 Irwin Quick Grips that I KNOW would benefit from this simple fix! My Dad is a retired Master Machinist and Tool & Dye Maker; when I go to do this "fix" on my Irwin's, I'm going to have him fabricate a couple dozen "replacement parts" for that little interior rectangular piece!! Now you've inspired me to disassemble a couple of similar style clamps I have from other brands to compare interior parts! Thank you again! ~~Christy~~
Christy, THANKS for the visit! It seems over tightening is the culprit in wearing out the locking "slug". The hardening will be important on the new parts he makes so they do not mar the bar of the clamp itself. The new slugs need to be slightly lower Rockwell hardness or they will burr the heck out of your clamp bars.
I took out the fixed end split pins and put a quick remove type in, then you can make it a 'force apart' gripper, as well as a 'push together' gripper.
Great video. As a side note, you can also replace the roll pin with a properly sized wing nut and bolt to turn this into a "quick reverse" spreader. While I get that spreaders might have considerably fewer uses than clamps, when you need one, you need one, and being able to quickly turn a handy clamp into one is a pretty convenient thing to do for the cost of $0.19 worth of hardware. Admittedly, if you've fixed your slipping "clamp", you will now have a "slipping" spreader. Fortunately, you don't often need the kind of holding strength on a spreader that you need on a clamp, so the slipping might be a non-issue for your particular use.
Have the opposite problem, won't slip from abuse, paint, sealant, rust, dog snot (he's huge), dirt and probably a bend as well. They get used, a lot. Great tip
@@joesshop3622It has been awhile, but it just came up one day. I have been planning on doing them, but kept putting it off. I needed to have them working good for the project I am working on so decided it was time. Again, thank you for the tip.
Nice. Saving this tip for down the road when mine loosen up. My biggest issue with my set that are probably 25 years old now... the soft plastic/rubber "yellow" pads always slip off and/or are loose after so much use.
Haha... yah, I did that. Problem is they then slip even more when you place the clamp on something. Still great clamps, that have lasted for years and years.
Seems reasonablre enough that it would depend on the specifics of the individual clamp's service life. It's a great fix, certainly save some going prematurely to the bin.
I'd say we saved one hell of a lot of them already and I'm liking that. I tossed several years ago...oops. I have no time for "if it works" as the glue dries lol. THANKS FOR THE VISIT!@@ottomakers
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the visit! You'll find I like to get to the point quickly. EVERYBODY likes that, no? Watch hrs. will come in time, no need to make everybody suffer.
Great video. I know what to do now but I would take a picture or two of the bits inside before I take them to pieces. That way you've something to refer to when you forget what goes where. 👍🇬🇧
Great video - I have some Harbor Freight versions and yes they will 'give' at times - I'll check this out on those - I really think they need to have some super soft rubber sleeves that could go on the grippers for increasing grip on things like round pipes - I'll make some but that might be good for lowering the tendency to 'crush' down and strip the pinch hole
Turns out they seem to wear out due to over tightening. Only the smaller 1/2" spine versions have this issue of mine. The bigger clamps with the 3/4" spine have never slipped ever. But then again my set is from the early 90's. Today lots are saying their offshore clamps slipped from day one. That's really sad.
@@joesshop3622 Thanx for the reply - yeah my bigger ones are okay - it's the itsy bitsy's that don't hold - I use rubber band to hold them tight You must have taken typing since like me you type responses fast thanks again
Your talking the 1/4" spine models...those are fragile lol their for repairing tooth pics mostly! BTW mine slipped too before the video!@@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st
I removed my roll pins from my clamps and never put them back. By sliding the handle off and putting it on backwards you now have a clap that will spread apart. I’ve used it many times while installing decking to straighten warped boards.
I have original Quick Grip clamps and the Irwin version. I never have problems with originals. My guess is, Irwin makes them cheaper, such as using softer steel for that grab plate.
Is it possible to file the bottom of the slot when both sides have wear? Just file off the bare minimum to square up the slot's bottom concave edge? Pls let folks know. Thx
I have no test data to prove it works but suffice to say elongating will make the metal slug angled more, partly defeating locking leverage and speeding the game of wear
There are 2 types of these grips. The simple one is not much good but the better one works really well especially on big jobs. The better type has some type of ratcheting system inside it which allows you to get a really strong grip on your material.
I have a different model, but most of these clamps have reversible fixed jaws, so you can also keep things apart. I think you don't need to take out the roll pin if you remove the fixed jaw.
And, I can also make a template from that part and make my own because that side will also wear and then that part will need replaced, but, with the template, I can make my own. :)
In reality you should get a decade or 2 of fairly hard service before they wear out. If you don't squeeze these like bigfoot could, your wear will be minimal or may not even occur. I failed to point this out in the video. A viewer reminded me lol
Sorry, I wasn't clear, the fix jaw has to be flipped around as well. I drilled a hole and installed a roll pin to hold the fixed jaw in place. @@joesshop3622
I have a clone of the Irwin clamp, "Tooltech" it goes one step further and the fixed jaw is held on with a wingnut so it is easy to flip the clamp around. Instead of a roll pin on the moving jaw end, it is a easily removable screw.@@joesshop3622
These typically only go bad after decades of abuse of some kind. Mine go south due to overtightening, possible lol No big ones ever went bad with the 3/4 spine always the 1/2"
If you leave the roll-pin out, then it's simpler to flip the sliding bar and movable jaw around if you need to use the clamp for "inside" (i.., pushing outwards) clamping instead of just outside (i.e., pushing inwards) clamping. :D
@@joesshop3622Really?? I did not know that. Well, I wasn't actually going by the Irwin brand clamps when I made this comment --- I always just buy the cheapy-bargain-bin clamps, so I am not familiar with the Irwin-brand clamps; maybe they are different. I just know that with many clamps like this, you can easily reverse the jaws for "inside" clamping --- all you have to do is unscrew the nut-and-bolt securing-pin that attaches the movable half of the clamp to the end of the sliding bar, separate the jaw from the bar, remove the bar from the lever-half of the clamp, flip it around (unless both ends of the bar have the hole in the same place relative to the bar's end, in which case the removal/reversal of the bar from the lever-half of the clamp isn't even necessary, since you can just remove the roll-pin from the end of the bar and then attach movable jaw to the hole where the roll-pin was), re-insert the bar into the lever-half's slot at the "inner" side instead of the "outer" side the way you would normally assemble it, and re-attach the movable half of the clamp "backwards" --- i.e., with the clamping-pad facing towards the end of the bar, rather than towards the middle --- as well, so that the clamping-pads are now facing away from each other instead of towards. :D
Only my smaller 1/2" spine clamps have slipped in 20 years and we believe now it's due to gorilla griping and over tightening them. Thanks for the visit Sir!
The bar is hardened your considering tapping but others have mentioned just a thru bolt/screw or even a zip-tie. TH-cam rocks so many varied ways to share on everything.
Or do as I did, accidentally leave it outside in the rain etc for a while, then after discovering it with a light layer of rust on the bar, note whilst it's a bit stiffer to slide, it also lost it's willingness to slip.
Thats hardened steel so no you cant drill or file it without wrecking your file/drill unless its diamond. I drill will walk like crazy... I'm not sure if elongation of the hole will cause it to lean to far forward negating its purpose all together as a stop or perhaps failing much earlier. One would have to test the theory and so some long accelerated tests to prove out the theory.
I have three or four Quick-Grips. They all work nicely, except for one. That one was so bad, I put it aside, and after a few years I decided to figure out what was wrong with it. I opened it up; it looked OK. So I opened up one of the good clamps, and found that the good clamp had two of those lock plates (1:40), but the junk one has only one plate. Bad manufacturing.
A 3 minute video in 3:30 these days is almost as good as a double tax refund. I have two of these, and while they don’t slip yet, I’ve had them apart for various reasons. I keep the roll pin off because it makes it easier to reverse the clamp as a spreader, or put one end through my bench as a holdfast. Thanks for the great vid!
Damn, never saw a roll pin punch but here's the gig, I/we need to always be thoughtful of everybody watching...in that, most of us do not have a full tool box with every tool on earth at our disposal. So we must always have everybody in mind as we do these videos. Imagine if I mentioned only stuff most did not have? lol
In this case you become a detective. Carefully look at the very opening of each "slug" and check for a shinny spot that is worn into each that is not normal in others. If you see the wear in one and not the others I'd leave them alone and only flip what's needed. Thanks for the visit Sir!
After I posted this question, I thought, 'Just Do It.' Done and fixed. Flipped the 2 plates closest to the lower spring, leaving the trigger advance plate as is. Also gave the bar a good sand with 80 grit paper. 2 clamps back in action! Thanx Joe.
I have 5, 4 small like this, 1 bigger but same style. Had 2 bigger but broke one completely. Oops. None slip, but if they ever do I'll try this. And if I wear them out twice I'll sharpen that edge on both sides for 2 more lives.
Can we NOT put the roll pin back on, and reverse the clamp, in case we wanted to use the clamps to open something up?!? Is that do-able? Thanks for posting!
If the top is reversible I don't see why you couldn't use it to open vs close. No difference on clamp loading of the bar its just reversing the load. THANKS for the visit!
Problem is the punched hole through the steel plate will only have sharp edges on one side of the plate/hole, the sharp edges will be on the side where the punch exits the steel plate, the other side where the punch enters the plate will have rounded edges.
Its not punched on my grips though, that's weird. Its a sawn extrusion or maybe it's been faced? It's sharp on both sides if you look at the video closely. Although mine are from early 90's when they were likely made here in the USA
Wait, wait, what happened with the intro scene, your animated logo, you talking to the camera, a panning view of your workshop, asking us where in the world are we watching you from, a convincing 2-minute speech on why to follow you and activate the bell, the ambience music, the transition effects, a pet walking by? Is this a youtube video from this universe??? THANK YOU!
That was early TH-cam.
The golden era.
Simple, applicable and concise.
That’s why this video deserves to be: shared, liked and subscribed…don’t forget to comment! lol couldn’t help it.
Now it’s unbearable like 80% Idiocracy + AI garbage videos. 😭
This is the nicest thing I've read in all my comments. If I had the means I'd reward that attitude properly.
I love this. Quick, simple, clear, moving on.
Nothing better to hear! Thank You Sir!@@GrantSR
Best comments are like these!@@GrantSR
Thank you for a quick and to the point video. Too many would have made this into a 20 minute video. Subscribing.
I'm sooooo with ya on that! Totally true! And THANK YOU for the Subs ALL OF YOU!!!
direct and to the point wll done@@joesshop3622
Subscribed too! 2 Thumbs UP! Thanks !
I wish I could double thumbs the comment! Thank You Sir!@@dporrasxtremeLS3
Or just stay away from this style of clamp. The thread screw type are miles better
I've used my Irwins every day for years and never had any slip problems. But I totally get what you're talking about and I'll watch for it. How to double the working life of my clamps - what a revelation. Thank you.
I'm only on the second one to slip in 20 tears of serious use. Considering I have 30 that's pretty darn good really.
I gripped the Irwin with gorilla pressure which caused it to go into 'slip-grip.' This video instruction fixed it! So happy.
@@joesshop3622 In 20 tears of serious use? That's a lot of crying for a wood shop.
It appears this is the root of the problem...You and me both!@@mike7gerald
Thank you for this excellent tip, and not having blasting music, and for providing 3 minutes and 30 seconds of information in a 3:30 video.
I'm SOOOO glad it's being WELL recognized! I/WE all LOVE the KISS principal...so why not?
I leave the roll pin out as sometimes I reverse the clamp head and use the grip as a spreader or small jack to bring things up to level.
YES! Exactly what I was going to comment but ya beat me to it! Incredibly useful at times :)
Great tip!
Replace it with a thumb screw
I was just thinking that, except you'd really have to reverse the other grip pad as well, otherwise you just have a, small piece of metal as the tip of your spreader.
Jorgensen makes clamps that can easily be converted to a spreader in a few seconds, without any tools.
@@danstheman33 I just rely on the square plastic bit of the fixed head. I only usually resort to using the clamp as as a jack at times when I just need a quick assist. It's not perfect but, in a pinch, it helps. Now you've suggested turning the fixed head I'll have to take a look at that option.
No time wasted, just quick and easy, like the "fix"... Well done video and narration?
Thanks Much for the visit!
One of the very few short and informative videos, without all the BS, thank you. 👏👏👍👍
This is something I'm proud of and many mention...I trust you'll all view my channel differently. I'm a believer in the K.I.S.S principal. I word it "keep it stupid simple!" hoping, "they will come" more lol!
....and , velcroman, NO B A C K GROUND noise !@(music ? )
Seems everybody is sick and tired of crap music and constant camera/edit trix every second! Apparently they just want the facts without the "froth" lol I'm good with that 110%@@petersack5074
Mine haven't started slipping yet but now I'm ready when they do.
Thanks for the money saving tip!
Thanks for the visit!
Mine are also working well but when they do start slipping I will use this to fix. Probably the most used clamps in the workshop. Thankyou
Isn't that the truth...I use the hell outta' mine, only 2 of 30 have given me slippage in 20+ years so I guess that's good too! @@markphillips3341
I also have a bunch of Irwin’s. I’ll keep this in my hip pocket when they show signs of grip senility.(losing their grip on reality 😂😂🤣).
This works on my pipe clamps as well. Great tip. Also, great that it was short and to the point. Good on ya, mate!
Glad it helped and thanks for the visit mate! Some day I'll visit roo land!
Absolute genius, thanks. Off to do this with half a dozen clamps that I'd relegated to the "dammit, I wish these still worked" shelf.
LOL At least YOU saved the ones that did not work...I'm not so fortunate!
@@joesshop3622 I've got so many clamps that are the same, dead ones become spare parts for when you break something easy to fix on one that does work!
Excellent - clear, quick and no stupid music. Well done Joe! Subscribing.
Another who hates being annoyed...imagine that lol. We all hate it yet some feel we need it in every video, more lol.
Great video, thank you. My grips are fine, but I like learning and this is great. Also, a pleasure listening to someone being concisely intelligent and not starting off with weird greetings and hand signals. I like normal.
GREAT COMMENT THANKS!!
That was way simpler than I thought it was going to be. Thanks!
Thank you SIR!
Thanks a lot, I got three of similar ones nearly thrown away. You saved their lives and reduced waste.
Now, even when the other sides is work out, I'd makes my own replacements.
(And, if the pin gets lost, use a zip tie.)
Glad I could help! Anything older is worth saving...todays stuff is, well, not so good sometimes, especially when it floats here low and goes home high in the water...or empty.
John that metal slug needs to be almost at a right angle to lock. As you file it with a rat tail file, your elongating the slot which may cause earlier degradation. Also, that won't be good on your file that's hardened material. I have no test data on this so it's truly an unknown just a guess.
Wow! Just this week I had one start slipping. I was going to toss it. Not know. Thank you! Excellent video
Fantastic, another saved from the landfill! Thanks for the visit!
I like your terminology for a hammer/mallet (banging stick)
... these are sometimes known as a 'KEAT' (ie Kinetic Energy Application Tool) ...
Another "Joe-ism" lol
Personally, I love the Irwin Quick Grips ! I use them for everything ! I need to also add that I've NEVER had one slip ! However, it is nice to know that if one ever does fail I can fix it !
Thanks for sharing! Apparently if you bear down on them all the time...they get sick of it lol!
Well the algorithm served this little gem up to me & im not disappointed. Iv had my 4 little quick clamps for about 8 years now & haven’t had an issue yet, but now that iv sent that statement out into the ether im sure i will have 4 failures tomorrow morning😂
Either way you have armed me with the knowledge to an immediate fix the second it shows any signs of weakness.
Funny because I would never had thought to do it, but as soon as I saw the thumbnail I knew exactly the fix you were going to do.
Well done & thank you very much
Glad folks are reaping the rewards of a fresh tool for free!
Same here, i have loads of Irwin clamps and now know what to do when they inevitably have this issue.
Best part is its fast to do. Thanks for visiting!@@AmirKhan-qx2lr
Great tip! Leave the roll pin out and you can switch from clamp to spreader as quick as you need to.
Great point! Thanks for the visit!
This is such a great tip that I am thinking of making this fix to my Irwins even though none of them slip.
DON'T do that. Wait till they slip so you'll get more time before replacing!! I'm in 20 years before 2 of 30 started to slip but in all fairness I use the hell out of them!
Thanks Jo, one of the best tips I've picked up on YT. Sort and concise, nice!
I really appreciate you all mentioning its short and to the point. I strive for short videos getting to the point, since I like that as well lol.
Sweet. I just tried this with my little 6" Quick Grips that I use constantly, and it worked like a charm. I had forgotten what it was like for them not to slip. Thanks for the tip!
Another satisficed customer...just the way WE like it!! Thanks man!
Thanks Joe !!! Happy St. Patrick's Day, Erin go Bragh (and of course Canada & The U.S. too) !!!
Thank you SIR!! I'll toast one to you soon! LOL!! Thanks for the visit!
@@joesshop3622 You bet, more visits to come, for sure.
Forget about that Irwin clamp; the real star is that prybar, which is a Red Devil from days gone by. My uncle gave me one 40 years ago. What makes it so special? The steel. it’s a hardened tool steel so sharpenable that years ago I actually shaved cast iron off my intake manifold while scraping the gasket off under the carburetor. It’s precious and hard to come by these days. (BTW, ex-wife and I went into a battle over this during the divorce. She wanted my “Red Tool”. I won that battle).
Yeah I have several of these red tools
Vaughn still makes a pretty good one: black or blue for carpentry, orange as a beekeeper's hive tool. Very thin yet stiff, tough. 😎✌️
I have one. Just used it to pull skirting boards off the wall. 👍
Totally cool you guys are thoroughly observant! You know more about my late fathers prybar than I did lol.
WELL DONE, ESPECIALLY WITH THE VISUALS.
Thank you SIR!! And thanks for the visit!
As a guitar builder IDK how many dozens and dozens of times I've struggled to get Irwin clamps to grip tight enough while gluing up parts. I wish a knew this at least a decade or more ago. Sir you are a champion !
There are much better clamps on the market that don't advance even half as far in one squeeze there by making them way more powerful clamps. There is a draw back... higher cost per unit.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I absolutely HATE when any brand of clamp I have starts slipping or gets "glitchy".....this particular style clamp is notorious for being glitchy in my opinion. I have about 7-8 Irwin Quick Grips that I KNOW would benefit from this simple fix! My Dad is a retired Master Machinist and Tool & Dye Maker; when I go to do this "fix" on my Irwin's, I'm going to have him fabricate a couple dozen "replacement parts" for that little interior rectangular piece!! Now you've inspired me to disassemble a couple of similar style clamps I have from other brands to compare interior parts! Thank you again! ~~Christy~~
Christy, THANKS for the visit! It seems over tightening is the culprit in wearing out the locking "slug". The hardening will be important on the new parts he makes so they do not mar the bar of the clamp itself. The new slugs need to be slightly lower Rockwell hardness or they will burr the heck out of your clamp bars.
@@joesshop3622 Thank you Joe, I will share this with my Dad for sure!
I left one on the roof for years found it cleaned it and its good as new. Thanks for the tip very useful.
Great to hear! Thanks for the Visit!!
Simple, quick & easy...Just my style. Thank you
We aim to please!
I took out the fixed end split pins and put a quick remove type in, then you can make it a 'force apart' gripper, as well as a 'push together' gripper.
How did you get the top pin out it's molded as a whole unit?
Great video. As a side note, you can also replace the roll pin with a properly sized wing nut and bolt to turn this into a "quick reverse" spreader. While I get that spreaders might have considerably fewer uses than clamps, when you need one, you need one, and being able to quickly turn a handy clamp into one is a pretty convenient thing to do for the cost of $0.19 worth of hardware. Admittedly, if you've fixed your slipping "clamp", you will now have a "slipping" spreader. Fortunately, you don't often need the kind of holding strength on a spreader that you need on a clamp, so the slipping might be a non-issue for your particular use.
It seems not all can work as spreaders, I'm bummed, mine won't lol. Apparently only the newer versions. Thanks for the visit!!
Thank you! Excellent video, short and sweet.
Thank You Sir!!
Super clear and concise. Straight and to the point too! Great video!
Music to my ears my friend lol! Thanks!
Have the opposite problem, won't slip from abuse, paint, sealant, rust, dog snot (he's huge), dirt and probably a bend as well. They get used, a lot. Great tip
FLOL!! GREAT COMMENT Thank You Sir for the comment and visit!!
Just got done doing 4 clamps I thought were ready for the trash. Thank you. Took maybe 20 minutes and they now are usable again .
@@joesshop3622It has been awhile, but it just came up one day. I have been planning on doing them, but kept putting it off. I needed to have them working good for the project I am working on so decided it was time. Again, thank you for the tip.
@@jsstacy7861 Thanks!
This is sick I just had another go bad, I've been tossing em' out! $#@! Nice tip! Albeit a tad late for me.
Sorry man, not again though!!
NiceJoe,Thanks.I have several that slip. I will take care of it right away Good video.
Glad I could help! Thanks for the visit!
Brilliant!
What a great video.
Like all the best things, simple and effective…
Thank you 🙏 👏👍
Thanks, much appreciated!
Awesome video, I have noticed mt beginning to slip. Done of mine have to be over 20 years old. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it's helping a lot of you out! Thanks for visiting!
Can’t wait to try it, I have several that slip. Thanks.
Works like a charm, seriously it works like new after you flip it 180°
This is good. I have a couple of Harbor Fright bar clamps that slip. Wonder if this will work or if their steel is soft Chinesium.
WOW!!!!!!! I will use that term till I die!!! FANTASTIC! 110% truth my friend!
Nice. Saving this tip for down the road when mine loosen up.
My biggest issue with my set that are probably 25 years old now... the soft plastic/rubber "yellow" pads always slip off and/or are loose after so much use.
I turn the pads around so that they slide on from the inside. This seems to keep them in place better.
Haha... yah, I did that. Problem is they then slip even more when you place the clamp on something. Still great clamps, that have lasted for years and years.
Harbor freight may have new ones that fit. Take an old one with you.
Replacement pads are available from Irwin
- Cheap!
Mine have on occasion gotten too close to a fresh weld - I keep spares on hand for such events :0)
contact cement
Practical, simple, useful. Thanks for the advice.
Thank you sir for the Visit!
thanks for the upload. I subbed. I have an old grip that does not tighten well and I am going to try this to see if it helps. Thanks !! peace
You'll be impressed for sure. Thank You Sir!!
Fantastic & very concise! Thank you!
Thank you Bob!! and Thanks for the visit!
Got dozens, most are second hand. Never had one slip in twenty years of woodworking. But, now I know what to do if it happens, very slick.
Many are saying over tightening is the culprit. Took 20 years to have only 2 fail and both were the 1/2" bar, the medium versions 6 to 12"
Seems reasonablre enough that it would depend on the specifics of the individual clamp's service life. It's a great fix, certainly save some going prematurely to the bin.
I'd say we saved one hell of a lot of them already and I'm liking that. I tossed several years ago...oops. I have no time for "if it works" as the glue dries lol. THANKS FOR THE VISIT!@@ottomakers
Awsome info. Thanks so. Uch for the video and not wasting time. Quick, clear, concise.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the visit! You'll find I like to get to the point quickly. EVERYBODY likes that, no? Watch hrs. will come in time, no need to make everybody suffer.
Great video. I know what to do now but I would take a picture or two of the bits inside before I take them to pieces. That way you've something to refer to when you forget what goes where. 👍🇬🇧
LOL I've done real time movies of stuff that's way over my head to work on...works great.
Great video - I have some Harbor Freight versions and yes they will 'give' at times - I'll check this out on those - I really think they need to have some super soft rubber sleeves that could go on the grippers for increasing grip on things like round pipes - I'll make some but that might be good for lowering the tendency to 'crush' down and strip the pinch hole
Turns out they seem to wear out due to over tightening. Only the smaller 1/2" spine versions have this issue of mine. The bigger clamps with the 3/4" spine have never slipped ever. But then again my set is from the early 90's. Today lots are saying their offshore clamps slipped from day one. That's really sad.
@@joesshop3622 Thanx for the reply - yeah my bigger ones are okay - it's the itsy bitsy's that don't hold - I use rubber band to hold them tight You must have taken typing since like me you type responses fast thanks again
No typing but I'm learning more literally from doing descriptions for TH-cam vids!@@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st
Your talking the 1/4" spine models...those are fragile lol their for repairing tooth pics mostly! BTW mine slipped too before the video!@@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st
I removed my roll pins from my clamps and never put them back. By sliding the handle off and putting it on backwards you now have a clap that will spread apart. I’ve used it many times while installing decking to straighten warped boards.
My clamps were used on the Mayflower...so the head does not come off. I guess that's a new "innovation" like sliced bread lol
Excellent tip. Thanks! 👍👍
I had soooo many that were hosed I had to look into the matter and figured I'll save all of you the hassle of looking into it!
I hope your idea of a "Bang Stick" if different than mine? If i used mine there would be nothing left of that clamp...
I like that!! Proust!
very cool- will be doing this to my beat up old slip-grips
Works like a charm. Thanks!!
Excellent video.
Excellent advice thanks for posting
And Thanks for the visit!!
You-Da-Man, great tip.
LOL!! I recently replied with the exact comment. Thank You Sir!
I have original Quick Grip clamps and the Irwin version. I never have problems with originals. My guess is, Irwin makes them cheaper, such as using softer steel for that grab plate.
My guess is these are made across the pond now, from Chineseium!
Is it possible to file the bottom of the slot when both sides have wear? Just file off the bare minimum to square up the slot's bottom concave edge? Pls let folks know. Thx
I was thinking the same thing, a file for Sharpening chain saw blades, you can get different sizes
I have no test data to prove it works but suffice to say elongating will make the metal slug angled more, partly defeating locking leverage and speeding the game of wear
There are 2 types of these grips. The simple one is not much good but the better one works really well especially on big jobs. The better type has some type of ratcheting system inside it which allows you to get a really strong grip on your material.
Your the 1st to mention this. Mine are all old as dirt lol no ratcheting anything. Thank you for the visit!
I have a different model, but most of these clamps have reversible fixed jaws, so you can also keep things apart. I think you don't need to take out the roll pin if you remove the fixed jaw.
Not true sir, the top of the head is unremovable see my latest video please.
@@joesshop3622 that's why i said "most". idon't know this exact model you're showing here. i think iit would have been simpler with the removable jaw
Great fix! Thanks for sharing. 😊
Thank you Sir!
And, I can also make a template from that part and make my own because that side will also wear and then that part will need replaced, but, with the template, I can make my own. :)
In reality you should get a decade or 2 of fairly hard service before they wear out. If you don't squeeze these like bigfoot could, your wear will be minimal or may not even occur. I failed to point this out in the video. A viewer reminded me lol
Thank you. These are (for me) expensive and I don't want to have to discard them. Thanks for the video.@@joesshop3622
+1 Irish subscriber added ! Love the short and sweet vid 👍🏻
I don't like drawn out videos either lol! Thank You SIR for the visit and SUB!!
@@joesshop3622 Sláinte 🥃!
Thank You once again SIR!! @@Mancozeb100
Clear & Concise. Subbed!
Thank you Sir! Much appreciated!
Flipping amazing. Thank you!
Glad you like it! Worked so well for me I had to post it figuring there are likely a couple more out there LOL!
Irwin profits down 50%, executives decide steel plate should not be hardened.
FLOL!!! "CHINESEUM" counterfeits flood the market
Outstanding Joe!!!
Did you fix any slippers? Should be literally a few min and that's if you have to look for a bottle opener first lol!
You showed how to double the life of the tool!! Super money saver!
Exactly the point. Which is why I shared it. We have enough in the landfills already!
After you take that pin out of there then you have yourself a spreader! Thanks for sharing.
Yes you can on the new models...not so much on the older ones like all mine lol.
EXCELLENT and very helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm surprised you didn't mention flipping the sliding clamp end around to make your clamp a spreading clamp...
How can it spread with a fixed head in the wrong direction...I'm I missing something? See my other video like this thumbnail for explanation!
Sorry, I wasn't clear, the fix jaw has to be flipped around as well. I drilled a hole and installed a roll pin to hold the fixed jaw in place. @@joesshop3622
Sorry, I wasn't clear, you have to switch the fixed head around as well. @@joesshop3622
I have a clone of the Irwin clamp, "Tooltech" it goes one step further and the fixed jaw is held on with a wingnut so it is easy to flip the clamp around. Instead of a roll pin on the moving jaw end, it is a easily removable screw.@@joesshop3622
Well done.
Thank you Sir!
Great idea, thanks!! Being an Irwin tool, it shouldn't wear out too quickly. How old was that clamp?
These typically only go bad after decades of abuse of some kind. Mine go south due to overtightening, possible lol No big ones ever went bad with the 3/4 spine always the 1/2"
Great stuff Joe, you clever git🤣👍
Thank you Sir!!
Thank you I needed that info
Glad I could help!
If you leave the roll-pin out, then it's simpler to flip the sliding bar and movable jaw around if you need to use the clamp for "inside" (i.., pushing outwards) clamping instead of just outside (i.e., pushing inwards) clamping. :D
Only the newer versions seem to be reversible. Thanks for the visit!
@@joesshop3622Really?? I did not know that. Well, I wasn't actually going by the Irwin brand clamps when I made this comment --- I always just buy the cheapy-bargain-bin clamps, so I am not familiar with the Irwin-brand clamps; maybe they are different. I just know that with many clamps like this, you can easily reverse the jaws for "inside" clamping --- all you have to do is unscrew the nut-and-bolt securing-pin that attaches the movable half of the clamp to the end of the sliding bar, separate the jaw from the bar, remove the bar from the lever-half of the clamp, flip it around (unless both ends of the bar have the hole in the same place relative to the bar's end, in which case the removal/reversal of the bar from the lever-half of the clamp isn't even necessary, since you can just remove the roll-pin from the end of the bar and then attach movable jaw to the hole where the roll-pin was), re-insert the bar into the lever-half's slot at the "inner" side instead of the "outer" side the way you would normally assemble it, and re-attach the movable half of the clamp "backwards" --- i.e., with the clamping-pad facing towards the end of the bar, rather than towards the middle --- as well, so that the clamping-pads are now facing away from each other instead of towards. :D
I've had about half a dozen of these grips for ages and none slip, but if they ever do, I know what to do about it. Thanks.
Only my smaller 1/2" spine clamps have slipped in 20 years and we believe now it's due to gorilla griping and over tightening them. Thanks for the visit Sir!
@@joesshop3622 That's good to know, because I tend to overtighten sometimes too.
After it wears out from turning it around, I would think if you have a small file to just so slightly file it flush, it could go a while longer.
Possible but no test data on that idea... yet lol. Thanks for the visit Steve!
Great video and no ridiculous music...ty
THANK YOU! Notice I do not favor the tricks edit games or anything special editing wise. 100% pure knowledge for you ASAP...the way we like it right?
You could replace the roll pin with a small nut and bolt, or tap the hole and use a screw.
The bar is hardened your considering tapping but others have mentioned just a thru bolt/screw or even a zip-tie. TH-cam rocks so many varied ways to share on everything.
Or do as I did, accidentally leave it outside in the rain etc for a while, then after discovering it with a light layer of rust on the bar, note whilst it's a bit stiffer to slide, it also lost it's willingness to slip.
Sorry to hear that! I hope it continues to work!
FYI , you can do the same thing when your Pony clamps slip.
Exactly, Thanks!
Could u place in a vice on a drill press and drop a drill bit back through hole to sharpen edge up again?
I was thinking the same thing, or what about a round file
Thats hardened steel so no you cant drill or file it without wrecking your file/drill unless its diamond. I drill will walk like crazy... I'm not sure if elongation of the hole will cause it to lean to far forward negating its purpose all together as a stop or perhaps failing much earlier. One would have to test the theory and so some long accelerated tests to prove out the theory.
Thanks.
Anyone ever have one of the clamping arms snap off?
I have a decent grip, but that was ridiculously easy.
If you still have the parts I'd wager to say it was a "cold shot" when it was molded and never filled the cavity completely full during molding...
Great tip Joe, many thanks
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the visit!!
I have three or four Quick-Grips. They all work nicely, except for one. That one was so bad, I put it aside, and after a few years I decided to figure out what was wrong with it. I opened it up; it looked OK. So I opened up one of the good clamps, and found that the good clamp had two of those lock plates (1:40), but the junk one has only one plate. Bad manufacturing.
The double up concept is common but fixes just as I show, flip them' around 180° and they are like new again!
short precice and helpful.
Thank you SIR!
A 3 minute video in 3:30 these days is almost as good as a double tax refund. I have two of these, and while they don’t slip yet, I’ve had them apart for various reasons. I keep the roll pin off because it makes it easier to reverse the clamp as a spreader, or put one end through my bench as a holdfast. Thanks for the great vid!
Great point! Thanks for the hold fast tip! GREAT IDEA!
They make roll-pin punches...I really love them versus trying to make a regular punch serve this purpose.
Not sure about a nail. 🤔 Never tried it.
Damn, never saw a roll pin punch but here's the gig, I/we need to always be thoughtful of everybody watching...in that, most of us do not have a full tool box with every tool on earth at our disposal. So we must always have everybody in mind as we do these videos. Imagine if I mentioned only stuff most did not have? lol
What a great tip.
Thank you so much 👍
Glad it was helpful! Proust!
What about clamps with 2 springs and multiple metal pieces? 3 metal pieces to each spring. Do I flip all of them? The upper group or the lower?
In this case you become a detective. Carefully look at the very opening of each "slug" and check for a shinny spot that is worn into each that is not normal in others. If you see the wear in one and not the others I'd leave them alone and only flip what's needed. Thanks for the visit Sir!
After I posted this question, I thought, 'Just Do It.' Done and fixed. Flipped the 2 plates closest to the lower spring, leaving the trigger advance plate as is. Also gave the bar a good sand with 80 grit paper. 2 clamps back in action! Thanx Joe.
Fantastic James! This is the stuff we all like to hear!! Another satisfied TH-camr! Thank You Sir for the visit!@@jameseconleyjr7868
Good tip!😎👍
Thanks Much!!
TIP Leave the roll pin out and you can reverse the jaws to become a spreader bar instead. That can be handy at times by itself.
This kind is non-reversible so I made a 2nd vid to solve this game.
3:28 A brand new "Vice Grip"? And all this time I thought that thing was in Erwin Quikgrip
It's amazing how many found that stressful. Sorry for the slip up, it's all off the cuff
I have 5, 4 small like this, 1 bigger but same style. Had 2 bigger but broke one completely. Oops. None slip, but if they ever do I'll try this. And if I wear them out twice I'll sharpen that edge on both sides for 2 more lives.
I wish I had test data on that theory...I can't say if that elongation of the slot will be as good as it was. Could work perfectly too...
If you put the jaw on facing the opposite direction you can use the clamp to push things apart!
The top is fixed on mine though but Thanks for the Visit!!
@@joesshop3622 yea it’s fixed but it still works to push against the flat spot on top.
Can we NOT put the roll pin back on, and reverse the clamp, in case we wanted to use the clamps to open something up?!? Is that do-able? Thanks for posting!
If the top is reversible I don't see why you couldn't use it to open vs close. No difference on clamp loading of the bar its just reversing the load. THANKS for the visit!
Better still, replace the roll pin with a bolt and wing nut or some type of clip. Then you can remove it easily to use the clamp as a spreader.
You DA MAN!@@paulsylvester1394
@@paulsylvester1394 Thats what I did, the new ones have a roll pin and a bolt.
It only takes a minute to swap them around.
Problem is the punched hole through the steel plate will only have sharp edges on one side of the plate/hole, the sharp edges will be on the side where the punch exits the steel plate, the other side where the punch enters the plate will have rounded edges.
Its not punched on my grips though, that's weird. Its a sawn extrusion or maybe it's been faced? It's sharp on both sides if you look at the video closely. Although mine are from early 90's when they were likely made here in the USA
Awesome thank you !
Your Welcome Sir!!
I suppose this applies to at least some other brands as well.
Extremely likely but I have no test data to prove such...