When my daughter was 6 or 7, my wife let her pick out my Christmas gift at a dollar store. She chose a similar mallet, which 25 years later, I still used regularly. She always gets a chuckle when she sees that old mallet in my bag when I'm working on something at her house.
That's awesome that she got that for you, it still works and you use it. I'm sure that brings back incredible memories for the both of you. And she's got to be so happy that her father actually did and use is something that she gave him so long ago😊
As a guy that’s been doing woodwork literally his entire life I’m 65 now, OK well for 45 years now. Those locking table dogs are the absolute best thing that I’ve seen. I’ve got most the other stuff covered but yeah I had no idea about those and that little tool to put the chamfered top on the hole. Plus that other pocket jig. I’m definitely ordering one of those. Great video buddy appreciate it.
Been watching a lot of these type of videos from builders lately. And I just gotta say, I'm liking this dude the best. No fluff, just straight to the point and the why behind it.
I bought a drill guide from Sears for my dad, Christmas late 1970's. A crude version, but very similar. When a hole needed to be drilled at exactly 90 degrees, there was no doubt about it. I still have it. [edit] Just a tip... you can hot glue (or other means) a fastener to the face of each bin showing what it holds.
If you don't want to hot glue, a couple of very small holes and a bit of tie wire will do the same job. Also makes it easier to remove that item if you want to reallocate that bin to something else.
We had a commercial shop, at my work. We had bins of odd hardware, all mixed together. I bought a bunch of Cookie Sheets all the same size. Made a Rack out of scrap Plywood, to slide the Cookie Sheets into. Had a Sheet for each of the following. Wood screws, Sheet Metal Screws, Machine Screws, Machine Bolts, Nuts, Washers and the final one for Lock-washers.
I used to have a Port-a-Line drill guide. That is the one tool that I regret letting go of when I was forced to down-size. I tried to find one years ago, and couldn't find anything like it. I'm glad to see someone is making them again. Drill guides are also perfect for people who can't have a shop at all.
I bought a similar mallet when I was 19. Now, 58 years later, I have replaced the heads several times and it is still my most used tool after the impact driver. Used for everything from driving stakes to engine work. It even comes in handy on the wood lathe. I now have a large collection of hammers but other than driving nails and ball peen work, this is virtually the only hammer I use.
15:18 For me, the best containers for screws and such are the 1kg (about 35 ounces), clear and empty plastic peanut butter jars! Once cleaned in the dishwasher, they are almost unbreakable, stack well, plastic is see through and you can move the container around and keep it sealed in case it falls on the ground. No mess! Also a good way to reduce waste.
I agree with your recommendation on that mallet. I saw you or someone on another channel using it, and thought I'd pick one up and try. I now use it *all the time* in my assembly -- it's my go-to mallet. It has just the right heft, and unlike my wooden mallet or dead-blow hammer, doesn't leave any marks. Best of all, it was less than $20.
I just use scrap piece of wood to lay over the fine piece and than I can use anything to kick it. Maybe easier to use soft mallet but I would be worried about soft woods like spruce if I hit it with harder plastic side or also soft side of the mallet. It's like everything wants to leave marks on spruce.. Too soft for anything that needs nice finish.
Franklin Instruments makes the one and only stud finder you should ever use/need. Nothing else compares. It has a bunch of sensors and LEDs so that you can watch a stud pass underneath it, and locate its center, as you move it around. Magnetic stud finders are only as accurate as the placement of the drywall screws, and drywallers are famously not concerned with fine details.
When/if my Kreg jig wears out or breaks I'm buying one like you showed! That's a very nicely made jig. I just made two new mallets to get an in-between weight for various chiseling work. I have a dead blow hammer for assembly with non-marring faces. Works pretty well. Glad you mentioned MAKING a mallet - I've never bought one (after >40 years woodworking).
Excellent tips. By the way, the idea of using a ruler for drawing curved lines is very good and has in fact been known for a long time. Such tools were called splines (which has also made its way into the name of parametric curves in modern computer programs, e.g. Bézier splines) and were used in design. Curves determined in this way followed the path of energy minimization, which was of great significance in the design of components, for example, automobile bodies. It's great that you're reminding us of these not necessarily commonly known methods today.
If you have access to a maker shop, you can take some acrylic and cut a variety of curves using their laser save them for templates in your shop. Big time saver and it can be very efficient clamp in place for guiding your saw and or router.
I have a couple of rubber/plastic mallets, but there's often no better option than simply holding some scrap wood over the workpiece and hitting that. Concerning screw storage, I have a toolbox full of clear plastic business card boxes, which have various screws in them. They're all labelled and easily available.
For holding small parts, better to use something like the large flat Milwaukee pack out organizer. When you buy your supplies, keep the labels and put those at the top of the pile in the organizer. With the lid top open take a picture of it and keep it on your notes on your phone. This way it’s always easy for reference and you know roughly the quantity that you have in each organizer so when you’re out at the hardware store and you remember that you wanted to get something else you can quickly go to your image zoom in on it if you need to and get more of the specific item. If you share your notes with other people that work in your shop, everybody can be updated onto the contents of each supply tray. The cool thing about the Milwaukee cases of course is that they are easily pulled from shop to job site and back again.
35+ years ago Craftsman sold a similar drill guide. It didn’t have the angle adjust, but it did allow the rods to extend below the base. That way you slip it over the edge of a board, rotate it until the rods rest on the top/bottom of the board…perfectly centered dowel holes. I still have mine.
Dude that mallet… I have one too (not estwing tho), and I use it ALL the time. Great for hold-fasts, chisels, persuading metal things… everything. Love it.
You can clamp the drill guide to a larger piece of wood, and clamp or attach the wood to your target, increasing your options such as the distance from the edge whilst clamping.
Yep that's true. If you pre drill your hole in the "larger" piece it can also help with tear out. But it does limit the depth of cut you can get so id use maybe 1/2" ply or thinner if possible
For finding studs I use a rare earth magnet, round half inch thick, 3/4 diameter. I keep it on my putty knife in my work vest. When I find a sheet rock screw I also check for sheet rock screws above and below to see if maybe that screw is not centered on the stud. If critical, I'll use an eight inch drill bit and drill through the sheet rock to find the 2 edges of the stud, I'll then know exactly where the center is. Not always necessary but sometimes it is.
a couple I made note of two I have "shop built" items that work as well or better than what shown. Nails & screws I made a box with bottom filled box with short lengths of 4" PVC as "holders" "Countrytime" lemonade (which I drank a lot of as a contractor) containers just fit into the PVC. once container is empty, washed and snip off spout on chopsaw. place desired fastener into container, write contents on lid with marker (no need for high ?? label printer) affix lid & place containers in order of size & type into "rings" and hang on wall 2nd. A simple narrow, thin strip of wood and a length of string. Cut bow style notches on sides at one end, tie loop in one end of string, when "arch" is needed affix loop over end into notches, bend wood to desired radius and wrap loose end of string around several times. tied loop gives you quick release with easy repeat.-
I'd go with Simplex for choice of mallet. Multiple head weights and tons of interchangeable face materials available. Love the channel. Thanks for all you do.
@@MWAWoodworks update us if you do. I don’t have a CNC and don’t plan on getting one just for that. Haha. But I’ll buy one and I’m sure others would also.
Or at least make a shoping list with all the parts (easier to ship, to). Any one of us can, and want to make that MDFboard, with your drawings. I would love to order all your stuff throu you, so figure out som way we can order by simply clicking. Its a jungle out there if you want to find the right parts and I want to make all the clever guids, but it stops there as I can’t find the right parts. Please tell me when you are done with your “easy order”. OK? 😊. Joa in Sweden.
I use magnets to find screws, and that tool looks like an improvement. However, be aware that where edges of drywall meet, the screws will be offset to the left and right at the joints. Also be aware, guys may not sink them in pairs, so that they are next to each other, and they may not center them on the studs, particularly if the framers did not space the studs perfectly.
Love the way you used the straight edge for curve cutting. Awesome idea. I just had to cut a curve for a bathroom vanity shelf. Wasn't pretty. I was 2 days late for this show.
While using magnetic stud finders it is also useful to find screws above and/or below the first found and use the average line. Just in case, as in every case ever, the screws aren't on the center line.
There are a couple of these I need in my life. I work in a small residential cabinet shop and I'm always looking for clever tools/solutions. Using the table saw fence as the router fence adjustment is perfect. We have a big cast iron sawstop table saw in a 10x10 table. But our rarely used router table is trash. Using the extra space, with the good tablesaw fence to adjust the router fence will make me use a router table again. And I'm making a magnetic stud finder today. I already have the materials so thanks for that one too. Also the drill guide was what came to mind first. We don't have a drill press but I have a cheap plastic guide that I just found and started using. Having parallel holes, especially on hardware jigs is so important. Especially when you have to flip the jig and then start using a bigger bit to get everything straight. Think ill upgrade that too.
Lixie makes the best mallet imo. The flooring version has their two softest heads which are so soft you can hit pine HARD and it wont dent, but still puts a lot of energy into the piece.
Awesome ! Great video thanks! Stud buddy is great! But remember drywallers don't always put the nails or screws in the center of the stud! Most of the time though!
The handle of my Craftsman hammer has a thick rubber cap on the end, which is perfect for tapping parts into place, without needing to drag around another tool.
Great tool tips. One thing to consider on the Stud Buddy, if you are at a Drywall Butt Joint the screw will be in the 3/4 half of the 1.5 inch stud. So it won't be in the center.
@MWAWoodworks for pictures, it's probably no big deal, but if it is a big TV wall mount, then only catching a half of the stud with a 3/8 lag may be problematic. Regardless, it's a good tool for finding a stud.
I love the pocket hole jig set up and would love to surprise the guys in the workshop with the jig jig (Jigception). do you have a CNC file for the one you made, and would you be happy to share it please?
One thing about a stud finder; since you cannot guarantee the accuracy of a drywall nail, I use several points along the stud in order to help center any screw. To do this, I use a bunch of small 'super strong magnets'. They not only find nails my stud finders miss, but I can line up a few of them along the stud, and even neighboring studs to get the complete picture. I can leave them there where they clearly mark the studs. When I go to remove them, there's no pencil lines to erase. So much better (and cheaper) than any stud finder I've ever used.
Do you have a video for that router fence?! I have a similar sawstop setup but am running the sawstop router fence separate from my table saw fence and running into issues - your attached fence idea might just solve them all!
I don’t know your name mate but I have to say that you have just become probably my favourite workshop/woodwork guy on TH-cam. What a wonderful, neat and tidy workshop. I wish I had similar. Thank you so much for posting. I have just subscribed - you’re a keeper!! Best regards from the Giant’s Causeway coast of Northern Ireland. 😄👍☘️
Will be buying the flexible straight edge for the same reason I think it's odd to not get a drill press... non-flat surfaces. I guess they're not that common in woodworking but definitely something I have frequently. For the stud buddy... brilliant. I recently independently had that realization when I had some leftover neodymium magnets. Way more reliable than a typical studfinder.
@@scotth5503 true. However, I think finding a few screws on the same stud will be more reliable than a stud finder… or just just a combination of the two.
I rarely need to worry about finding the exact center of the stud. If I am I probably am removing the drywall and attaching right to the studs like on a floating shelf.
The IJK and the Rocker drill guide is basically a spitting image of each other... The Rocket is solid and a great premium one also...but the IJK, rocker and Woodpeckers are all pricey. While they are certainly useful.. Even the best ones pale to almost any drill press.
They are pricey, but not as pricey as an equal quality drill press! A good drill press (one worth buying with the appropriate capacities, features and accuracies) cost between $700 and $2500 and you still couldn't use it on a desk top.😀
My thermal printer is the best thing I’ve bought in years practically. That along with some small bags or Mylar bags and variety of label sizes… it’s organized stuff so well. Whenever I get extra parts for an item, pop a label on it so quickly or use it to make instructions and pop it on.. I use it several times a day. lol
Im sorry, this is a dumb question, but when u were using that straight edge as a guide for your saw how was it not moving on you lol??? I didn’t see any nails or anything in it, was it on a magnetic table? Plz explain I know nothing about all this stuff
I agree that the UJK Drill Guide is very well made & a very useful addition to my work shop.. however it has 1 big flaw in it's design.. the jaws of the chuck are left too far away from the work surface; meaning I need extra long drill bits occasionally (which are not readily available at everyday hardware shops/stores) or I use the guide to start a hole but have to finish it off with the drill machine detached ( an extra & unnecessary step). This is only a real problem when using Forstener Bits as they have short shanks..& it coud be solved if the shank of the chuck was longer or the design of the cross beam or end stops was tweaked. I really rate the quality of UJK products overall but small details like this are very annoying.
I like your short cuts, I have Kraig jig, never use it… don’t like the set up time, what if you could color code the dill bit, and have one for each depth, say red for 1.5” green for 3/4”, etc and color code as well on jig, ?
Another fantastic video. Been home for months with a broken leg and your videos are well done and very informative. Plus, it’s a good place to see the newest tools in use.
The second you mentioned the portable drill guide like 7 pieces clicked into place for me! I was like “of course that’s a thing, how did I never consider that to be a thing before??” Texted the gf immediately to update the Christmas list 😂
@@MWAWoodworks Very interested. That would be worth finding a maker to partner with to mill (even if one-off). I have toyed with doing a mounting board for the Kreg over the years, but all the designs were to big and clunky.
Thank You for this video. I appreciate all this information. Learned a lot. I would also ask if you could mention where tools are manufactured as part of the description. I ALWAYS seek out the American made tools. Especially if its made of metal. Ill keep watching and subscribe.
Also what I like is finding out how to make the tools you’re paying for, an example, just get some good magnets instead of stud buddy, bench dogs just cut or make dowels… as tool freaks that we are, quick go out and buy that slick tool…
I have all the tools I need, and a smallish workbench, as I only have a single garage which is occupied by the motor vehicle most of the time. I need to get a thick piece of MDF, which I can store against a wall and put on trestles for a larger and, most importantly, a FLAT worktop.
Thanks for the heads up on the tools. I could use most of them. Some now and some to replace others when they need to be. I certainly appreciate it! 😊😊😊
Franklin Stud sensor with a magnetic stud sensor as a back - up. Best of both worlds. Quick (Franklin) with a magnetic back up that may be (and often is) at the edge of the stud instead of the middle.
For most applications you don't need to be exactly centered on the stud, unless your application involves storing heavier items in which case I'd cut out the drywall. I did a video on this subject a couple videos back on my channel 👍
That base and hole pattern on the drill guide makes it look like you could mount it like a router under a table
9 หลายเดือนก่อน
I'm torn on that chamfer on MFT. Isn't there some reason you don't see them normally? I mean you loose a bit of stability but that's probably negligible.
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When my daughter was 6 or 7, my wife let her pick out my Christmas gift at a dollar store. She chose a similar mallet, which 25 years later, I still used regularly. She always gets a chuckle when she sees that old mallet in my bag when I'm working on something at her house.
I bought a $1 magnet extension to reach lost nuts. That has paid for itself many times.
mallets are underrated. there isn't a single day at the workshop when i don't find myself reaching for it to give something a little thwack.
That's awesome that she got that for you, it still works and you use it. I'm sure that brings back incredible memories for the both of you. And she's got to be so happy that her father actually did and use is something that she gave him so long ago😊
As a guy that’s been doing woodwork literally his entire life I’m 65 now, OK well for 45 years now. Those locking table dogs are the absolute best thing that I’ve seen. I’ve got most the other stuff covered but yeah I had no idea about those and that little tool to put the chamfered top on the hole. Plus that other pocket jig. I’m definitely ordering one of those. Great video buddy appreciate it.
This is maybe the best "tools advice" video I have seen. Affordable, kind of obscure, but REALLY useful tools. THanks!!!
Thanks 👍
Been watching a lot of these type of videos from builders lately. And I just gotta say, I'm liking this dude the best. No fluff, just straight to the point and the why behind it.
I bought a drill guide from Sears for my dad, Christmas late 1970's. A crude version, but very similar.
When a hole needed to be drilled at exactly 90 degrees, there was no doubt about it.
I still have it.
[edit] Just a tip... you can hot glue (or other means) a fastener to the face of each bin showing what it holds.
If you don't want to hot glue, a couple of very small holes and a bit of tie wire will do the same job. Also makes it easier to remove that item if you want to reallocate that bin to something else.
I'm more of a putterer than a wood worker but I find the better tools I have the better my projects come out!
Thanks don’t usually get value out of these types of videos but your has been the exception! Worth the watch.
"Would you start a furniture build without a plan" you clearly don't know how many bad decisions I make
Lmao..I also said “yes” out loud to myself at that part of the video
😂
A LOT of very very very good woodworkers don’t use plans at all.
I never use a plan. Some brains don't work like that
Plans are confusing, ill just wing it and remake a few pieces here and there lol
We had a commercial shop, at my work. We had bins of odd hardware, all mixed together. I bought a bunch of Cookie Sheets all the same size. Made a Rack out of scrap Plywood, to slide the Cookie Sheets into. Had a Sheet for each of the following. Wood screws, Sheet Metal Screws, Machine Screws, Machine Bolts, Nuts, Washers and the final one for Lock-washers.
👍
Smart. I am still using coffee cans and a tray with a funnel on the side to put them back in the can. It works, but can be a pita.
But now, where do you keep the cookies?
I used to have a Port-a-Line drill guide. That is the one tool that I regret letting go of when I was forced to down-size. I tried to find one years ago, and couldn't find anything like it. I'm glad to see someone is making them again.
Drill guides are also perfect for people who can't have a shop at all.
Ujk and rockler use the same manufacturer...they are just ok, better options exist...wp...
I bought a similar mallet when I was 19. Now, 58 years later, I have replaced the heads several times and it is still my most used tool after the impact driver. Used for everything from driving stakes to engine work. It even comes in handy on the wood lathe. I now have a large collection of hammers but other than driving nails and ball peen work, this is virtually the only hammer I use.
15:18 For me, the best containers for screws and such are the 1kg (about 35 ounces), clear and empty plastic peanut butter jars!
Once cleaned in the dishwasher, they are almost unbreakable, stack well, plastic is see through and you can move the container around and keep it sealed in case it falls on the ground. No mess! Also a good way to reduce waste.
I agree with your recommendation on that mallet. I saw you or someone on another channel using it, and thought I'd pick one up and try. I now use it *all the time* in my assembly -- it's my go-to mallet. It has just the right heft, and unlike my wooden mallet or dead-blow hammer, doesn't leave any marks. Best of all, it was less than $20.
👍
You can always choke up on it to do chisel work too. I cleaned out a knothole with mine and a 1/4" chisel pretty easily.
I just use scrap piece of wood to lay over the fine piece and than I can use anything to kick it. Maybe easier to use soft mallet but I would be worried about soft woods like spruce if I hit it with harder plastic side or also soft side of the mallet. It's like everything wants to leave marks on spruce.. Too soft for anything that needs nice finish.
@@matejcermak😂🎉
Franklin Instruments makes the one and only stud finder you should ever use/need. Nothing else compares. It has a bunch of sensors and LEDs so that you can watch a stud pass underneath it, and locate its center, as you move it around. Magnetic stud finders are only as accurate as the placement of the drywall screws, and drywallers are famously not concerned with fine details.
"In both milimiters and standard measurements"... That made me chuckle.
I usually say millimeters and normal LOL
Milimeter is the Standard.
😬😅😅😀😂
It's all about perspective bud
That's what it is called . Nothing to chuckle about.
When/if my Kreg jig wears out or breaks I'm buying one like you showed! That's a very nicely made jig. I just made two new mallets to get an in-between weight for various chiseling work. I have a dead blow hammer for assembly with non-marring faces. Works pretty well. Glad you mentioned MAKING a mallet - I've never bought one (after >40 years woodworking).
Excellent tips. By the way, the idea of using a ruler for drawing curved lines is very good and has in fact been known for a long time. Such tools were called splines (which has also made its way into the name of parametric curves in modern computer programs, e.g. Bézier splines) and were used in design. Curves determined in this way followed the path of energy minimization, which was of great significance in the design of components, for example, automobile bodies. It's great that you're reminding us of these not necessarily commonly known methods today.
🙌
Finally! A buying guide for everyone...not just the super-rich! Thanks a lot. I'm subscribing.
🙌
What, you don’t like guides like “The 10 Festool tools that you absolutely must own if you ever want to do any woodworking”? :)
@@gf2e LOL! Well put!!!
The tools are great, but it’s the artist who uses them to produce the best results. Nice work!
If you have access to a maker shop, you can take some acrylic and cut a variety of curves using their laser save them for templates in your shop. Big time saver and it can be very efficient clamp in place for guiding your saw and or router.
I have a couple of rubber/plastic mallets, but there's often no better option than simply holding some scrap wood over the workpiece and hitting that.
Concerning screw storage, I have a toolbox full of clear plastic business card boxes, which have various screws in them. They're all labelled and easily available.
For holding small parts, better to use something like the large flat Milwaukee pack out organizer. When you buy your supplies, keep the labels and put those at the top of the pile in the organizer. With the lid top open take a picture of it and keep it on your notes on your phone. This way it’s always easy for reference and you know roughly the quantity that you have in each organizer so when you’re out at the hardware store and you remember that you wanted to get something else you can quickly go to your image zoom in on it if you need to and get more of the specific item. If you share your notes with other people that work in your shop, everybody can be updated onto the contents of each supply tray. The cool thing about the Milwaukee cases of course is that they are easily pulled from shop to job site and back again.
35+ years ago Craftsman sold a similar drill guide. It didn’t have the angle adjust, but it did allow the rods to extend below the base. That way you slip it over the edge of a board, rotate it until the rods rest on the top/bottom of the board…perfectly centered dowel holes. I still have mine.
If I had waited 30 seconds…the screw in pins do the trick. Nice souped up version of an old idea.
👍
I think that my Drill guide just turned 40 and keeps on going. Bored a LOT of holes with it and set more than a few dowels.
Dude that mallet… I have one too (not estwing tho), and I use it ALL the time. Great for hold-fasts, chisels, persuading metal things… everything. Love it.
You can clamp the drill guide to a larger piece of wood, and clamp or attach the wood to your target, increasing your options such as the distance from the edge whilst clamping.
Yep that's true. If you pre drill your hole in the "larger" piece it can also help with tear out. But it does limit the depth of cut you can get so id use maybe 1/2" ply or thinner if possible
4:00 "Both millimeters and standard measurements"
Can you please tell me which standard you're referring to? For sure not SI Units
Inches
For finding studs I use a rare earth magnet, round half inch thick, 3/4 diameter. I keep it on my putty knife in my work vest. When I find a sheet rock screw I also check for sheet rock screws above and below to see if maybe that screw is not centered on the stud. If critical, I'll use an eight inch drill bit and drill through the sheet rock to find the 2 edges of the stud, I'll then know exactly where the center is. Not always necessary but sometimes it is.
a couple I made note of two I have "shop built" items that work as well or better than what shown. Nails & screws I made a box with bottom filled box with short lengths of 4" PVC as "holders" "Countrytime" lemonade (which I drank a lot of as a contractor) containers just fit into the PVC. once container is empty, washed and snip off spout on chopsaw. place desired fastener into container, write contents on lid with marker (no need for high ?? label printer) affix lid & place containers in order of size & type into "rings" and hang on wall
2nd. A simple narrow, thin strip of wood and a length of string. Cut bow style notches on sides at one end, tie loop in one end of string, when "arch" is needed affix loop over end into notches, bend wood to desired radius and wrap loose end of string around several times. tied loop gives you quick release with easy repeat.-
Both good ideas!
I'd go with Simplex for choice of mallet. Multiple head weights and tons of interchangeable face materials available. Love the channel. Thanks for all you do.
You really should look at batching out those pocket hole jigs on the CNC and selling them. I’d buy one right now!
It's crossed my mind 😁
@@MWAWoodworks update us if you do. I don’t have a CNC and don’t plan on getting one just for that. Haha. But I’ll buy one and I’m sure others would also.
I'll have to figure out how much shipping something that big would be 🤔
Or at least make a shoping list with all the parts (easier to ship, to). Any one of us can, and want to make that MDFboard, with your drawings. I would love to order all your stuff throu you, so figure out som way we can order by simply clicking. Its a jungle out there if you want to find the right parts and I want to make all the clever guids, but it stops there as I can’t find the right parts. Please tell me when you are done with your “easy order”. OK? 😊.
Joa in Sweden.
I'd totally buy one. Unfortunately don't have a CNC to make one myself.
I use magnets to find screws, and that tool looks like an improvement. However, be aware that where edges of drywall meet, the screws will be offset to the left and right at the joints. Also be aware, guys may not sink them in pairs, so that they are next to each other, and they may not center them on the studs, particularly if the framers did not space the studs perfectly.
I've used those little super magnets dangling from a 6" strip of blue tape.
Love the way you used the straight edge for curve cutting. Awesome idea. I just had to cut a curve for a bathroom vanity shelf. Wasn't pretty. I was 2 days late for this show.
This roundup is fanatic! I’ll definitely be using your links this upcoming Black Friday weekend.
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One of the very best videos I’ve seen on useful tools. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!!!
While using magnetic stud finders it is also useful to find screws above and/or below the first found and use the average line. Just in case, as in every case ever, the screws aren't on the center line.
There are a couple of these I need in my life. I work in a small residential cabinet shop and I'm always looking for clever tools/solutions. Using the table saw fence as the router fence adjustment is perfect. We have a big cast iron sawstop table saw in a 10x10 table. But our rarely used router table is trash. Using the extra space, with the good tablesaw fence to adjust the router fence will make me use a router table again. And I'm making a magnetic stud finder today. I already have the materials so thanks for that one too. Also the drill guide was what came to mind first. We don't have a drill press but I have a cheap plastic guide that I just found and started using. Having parallel holes, especially on hardware jigs is so important. Especially when you have to flip the jig and then start using a bigger bit to get everything straight. Think ill upgrade that too.
Finally someone with practical info. Been woodworking for 38 yrs and this is very cool stuff. Thank you
Lixie makes the best mallet imo. The flooring version has their two softest heads which are so soft you can hit pine HARD and it wont dent, but still puts a lot of energy into the piece.
Thanks for the recommendation. I've not heard of that!
Awesome ! Great video thanks! Stud buddy is great! But remember drywallers don't always put the nails or screws in the center of the stud! Most of the time though!
The handle of my Craftsman hammer has a thick rubber cap on the end, which is perfect for tapping parts into place, without needing to drag around another tool.
Great video
As a cabinet installer myself i found that the
"CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder" is the best out there and much more compact
Great tool tips.
One thing to consider on the Stud Buddy, if you are at a Drywall Butt Joint the screw will be in the 3/4 half of the 1.5 inch stud. So it won't be in the center.
True! but I'm not sure I care? Why do I need to be exactly in the center?
@MWAWoodworks for pictures, it's probably no big deal, but if it is a big TV wall mount, then only catching a half of the stud with a 3/8 lag may be problematic.
Regardless, it's a good tool for finding a stud.
I love the pocket hole jig set up and would love to surprise the guys in the workshop with the jig jig (Jigception). do you have a CNC file for the one you made, and would you be happy to share it please?
That Enjoy Wood pocket hole jig also looks super nice. Your jig for for pocket hoke jig is brilliant.
Cool video! Those are some really useful tools. I really like the portable drill guide! I may pick one up this weekend.
I promised myself no more new tools until I organize my shop. But I like the drill guide! Another broken promise.
I appreciate your honesty 😂
Made the same promise. Keeping for the most part.
The Harbor Freight dead blow hammers work great for assembly. Have a small one for cabinets and a large one for timber framing.
I just bought the kreg 720 pro for $129 on clearance at Lowe’s. I set it up on a 30”x 18” piece of plywood. Complete game changer!!!
nice
I would look for a pocket hole jig with the clamp in the front it makes a big difference in ease of use.
I have both a drill guide and a smallish drill press. The guide is most useful for doing angled drilling.
The ujk drill stand is a great looking tool, however id like to see a side fence on it so you can drill from a given edge
You use the aluminum yard stick as a guide (great idea) for your circular saw- but when you use it- you do clamp it down, right? Thanks.
I use 2 sided tape usually clamps get in the way
First video of yours I have seen and I love your Kregg alternative! Gave me lots of ideas. Thanks.
One thing about a stud finder; since you cannot guarantee the accuracy of a drywall nail, I use several points along the stud in order to help center any screw. To do this, I use a bunch of small 'super strong magnets'. They not only find nails my stud finders miss, but I can line up a few of them along the stud, and even neighboring studs to get the complete picture. I can leave them there where they clearly mark the studs. When I go to remove them, there's no pencil lines to erase. So much better (and cheaper) than any stud finder I've ever used.
Awesome 👍
Have you seen the Kreg one with a lazer. Also has magnets but has a lazer so you can see how the entire stud runs in the wall and level too.
Do you have a video for that router fence?! I have a similar sawstop setup but am running the sawstop router fence separate from my table saw fence and running into issues - your attached fence idea might just solve them all!
I don't, no. I built it a long time before TH-cam but I may do an explainer video about it like I did for my table saw aux fence
Would love it if you did, glad I found your channel!
Would you comment on the electric wire connected to the vacuum hose? Thanks
Dude your Jig for your Jig chefs kiss so perfect!
I don’t know your name mate but I have to say that you have just become probably my favourite workshop/woodwork guy on TH-cam. What a wonderful, neat and tidy workshop. I wish I had similar. Thank you so much for posting. I have just subscribed - you’re a keeper!! Best regards from the Giant’s Causeway coast of Northern Ireland. 😄👍☘️
did I miss something? would held that yellow straight edge in place so that you could use it as a rip guide?
Great question! I use 2 sided tape in my shop all the time but forget to mention it because it's out of sight 😂
what cabinet design program do you recommend. I am a hobbyist and want to save my plans for future use and have a material list available.
Will be buying the flexible straight edge for the same reason I think it's odd to not get a drill press... non-flat surfaces. I guess they're not that common in woodworking but definitely something I have frequently.
For the stud buddy... brilliant. I recently independently had that realization when I had some leftover neodymium magnets. Way more reliable than a typical studfinder.
Yep for sure
Downside of the studbuddy approach is it doesn't guarantee that you find the center of the stud
@@scotth5503 true. However, I think finding a few screws on the same stud will be more reliable than a stud finder… or just just a combination of the two.
I rarely need to worry about finding the exact center of the stud. If I am I probably am removing the drywall and attaching right to the studs like on a floating shelf.
I have been looking for something to attach my Incra router fence to a 20mm hole system. Thanks for the lead.
Absolutely!
Where do I purchase your drawer trays that you keep your small items, such as screws?
In the description
One of the best reviews of tools you should have that I have seen. Loved the pocket hole tool. I want one.
The IJK and the Rocker drill guide is basically a spitting image of each other...
The Rocket is solid and a great premium one also...but the IJK, rocker and Woodpeckers are all pricey.
While they are certainly useful..
Even the best ones pale to almost any drill press.
They are pricey, but not as pricey as an equal quality drill press! A good drill press (one worth buying with the appropriate capacities, features and accuracies) cost between $700 and $2500 and you still couldn't use it on a desk top.😀
Always nice to keep a regular stud buddy around or sometimes called stud Daddy!!
My thermal printer is the best thing I’ve bought in years practically. That along with some small bags or Mylar bags and variety of label sizes… it’s organized stuff so well. Whenever I get extra parts for an item, pop a label on it so quickly or use it to make instructions and pop it on.. I use it several times a day. lol
High value information in this video. Thank you for sharing your personal findings, much of it can align with my small garage shop.
That UJK drill guide looks pretty nice.
I have a cheaper portable drill guide. I have it attached to a piece of 1/2" plywood to make clamping easier.
Apropos mallets, plastic faced dead blow mallets, in different weights, every time! The multipurpose scribing tool looked interesting too.
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"Sandard measurements" : ) Made me smile
The UJK Universal Fence Clamps would work great in combination with 1-2-3 blocks.
Im sorry, this is a dumb question, but when u were using that straight edge as a guide for your saw how was it not moving on you lol??? I didn’t see any nails or anything in it, was it on a magnetic table? Plz explain I know nothing about all this stuff
2 sided tape
@@MWAWoodworks oh niceeee
I'm a big component on having a drawer with the screws all small boxes. That I have another location that has stores all the big refills boxes
Great presentation - lots of useful tools! I saved this video for when I redo/reorganize my garage.
I agree that the UJK Drill Guide is very well made & a very useful addition to my work shop.. however it has 1 big flaw in it's design.. the jaws of the chuck are left too far away from the work surface; meaning I need extra long drill bits occasionally (which are not readily available at everyday hardware shops/stores) or I use the guide to start a hole but have to finish it off with the drill machine detached ( an extra & unnecessary step).
This is only a real problem when using Forstener Bits as they have short shanks..& it coud be solved if the shank of the chuck was longer or the design of the cross beam or end stops was tweaked.
I really rate the quality of UJK products overall but small details like this are very annoying.
I like your short cuts, I have Kraig jig, never use it… don’t like the set up time, what if you could color code the dill bit, and have one for each depth, say red for 1.5” green for 3/4”, etc and color code as well on jig, ?
Most excellent advice all around. Thank you so much. Insurance tip is excellent.
Lol thanks!
Another fantastic video. Been home for months with a broken leg and your videos are well done and very informative. Plus, it’s a good place to see the newest tools in use.
Thanks for watching and for the kind words! Hope you heal up soon!
Great tips! Love the pocket hole jig platform!
Yeah I have so many ideas for upcoming jigs now!
The second you mentioned the portable drill guide like 7 pieces clicked into place for me! I was like “of course that’s a thing, how did I never consider that to be a thing before??”
Texted the gf immediately to update the Christmas list 😂
What do you think about Neiko dead blow hammers instead of nylon+rubber mallet?
Dead blows are fine I have a couple for general work but the heads are smaller on the rubber mallets so you can get into smaller places easier
Will you share plans and techniques for the pocket hole jig jig? Very slick! I just ordered one of the jigs to replace my Kreg.
It was designed and cut out on a CNC! If you're still interested maybe I can make the cut files available?
@@MWAWoodworks Very interested. That would be worth finding a maker to partner with to mill (even if one-off). I have toyed with doing a mounting board for the Kreg over the years, but all the designs were to big and clunky.
Lots of tools to make my woodwork much easier. Excellent Tutorial.😊😊😊
Thanks 👍
Thank You for this video. I appreciate all this information. Learned a lot. I would also ask if you could mention where tools are manufactured as part of the description. I ALWAYS seek out the American made tools. Especially if its made of metal. Ill keep watching and subscribe.
Also what I like is finding out how to make the tools you’re paying for, an example, just get some good magnets instead of stud buddy, bench dogs just cut or make dowels… as tool freaks that we are, quick go out and buy that slick tool…
I have all the tools I need, and a smallish workbench, as I only have a single garage which is occupied by the motor vehicle most of the time. I need to get a thick piece of MDF, which I can store against a wall and put on trestles for a larger and, most importantly, a FLAT worktop.
Awesome 👍
Thanks for the heads up on the tools. I could use most of them. Some now and some to replace others when they need to be. I certainly appreciate it! 😊😊😊
Awesome 👍
Hi, do you have a plan for the Pocket Hole Jig? I use Kreg but can see mounting it in a (deeper) jig would be great!
I will not buy a tool called a stud buddy. I have standards.
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Hahaha although I may not agree, I definitely understand. I commend you, good sir.
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Hahahahahaa😅
What exactly is the issue you have with this tool ?
What tape measure are you using? It looks pretty easy to read.
I use fastcap tapes
Franklin Stud sensor with a magnetic stud sensor as a back - up. Best of both worlds. Quick (Franklin) with a magnetic back up that may be (and often is) at the edge of the stud instead of the middle.
I like the Franklin one. Shows you where the edges of the studs are.
my 9: table saw, router, cnc, co2 laser, jig saw, band saw, lathe, planer and jointer.
14:02 but on the stud buddy, don’t you run into an issue if the screw isn’t centered on the stud?
For most applications you don't need to be exactly centered on the stud, unless your application involves storing heavier items in which case I'd cut out the drywall. I did a video on this subject a couple videos back on my channel 👍
That is the most awesome JIGGIDY JIG !!!!
The 16 " or 24 " standard stud spacing you refer to is an on/center measurement. It is not the distance between studs.
That's correct.
That jig you made was amazing!(pocket hole)
That base and hole pattern on the drill guide makes it look like you could mount it like a router under a table
I'm torn on that chamfer on MFT. Isn't there some reason you don't see them normally? I mean you loose a bit of stability but that's probably negligible.