I followed this video (and the Orca documentation) to the letter and my P1P went from printing like a dream to glitching out and giving me spaghetti for every print. Finally on a hunch I went back and changed the temperature back to the slicer's default of 220C and viola, prints started being perfect again. It was changing the temperature right at the first step that was causing all of the issues - but looking at the temperature tower, the lower temperature I had picked for my filament (205C) was the best looking level. Just throwing this out there for anyone that has a similar situation. In my case, I guess "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" will get a little more respect moving forward.
@@chrisr236 It's explained because it's printing the temp tower at much slower speeds than default Bambu printing profiles. Temp is not a one and done calibration, you have to test against the speeds you are using. Increased print speed needs increased temps.
@@Ferrous_Bueller Got it. So it seems like the temp of the hotend is not neccassarily the same temp as the filament as it comes out of the hotend? I assume the speed it comes out at, and therefore the amount of time that the filament is in contact with the hotend, determines its real temperature.
@@chrisr236 correct, filament temp would ultimately be the result of hotend temperature + the amount of time it spent in contact with the hotend. I’ve found that up to 80mm a second a hotend temp of 210 works as a general PLA rule. From 80mm a second to 200mm a second, a hotend temp of 220 works. 200mm a second to 400mm a second 225-230 works. Over 400mm a second the Bambu isn’t equipped to print well; the hotend and cooling both can’t handle it.
Very helpful video - I’d been avoiding trying Soft Fever because the big attraction of the X1C for me is the lack of fiddling I need to do. You showing this though made me realize how simple it is, I’m going to give it a try.
nice new logo. Great info. Have been interested about other slicers. have had some problems with specific prints. This video will help me fine tune the filament to hopefully correct the problem
Thank you for making this video. You have no idea how much filament I wasted trial-and-error style printing BambuLab's PET-CF. I wasn't able to get it printing properly until this video.
Just an observation, you mentioned as you left "flow calibration" ticked that the next tests were going to do that for you, then went on to do the flow calibration from the drop down. I just want to point out that they are completely different. The "flow calibration" in the menu before each print is actually getting the "k value" for linear/pressure advance, where the dropdown is actual filament flow from the extruder. It still only needs to be done once when the filament is loaded into the AMS, then it will remember the value. Then you do it again once you put a different filament in that slot.
Awesome to know that this exists period I like to stick with bamboo filaments but I do know they don't make exotic ones so it's nice to know how to calibrate it.
This is actually massively nice. I knew nothing about this as the X1 is my second printer this year as I didnt have luck with my Ender. Thank you for the great news!
I think the best line on PA in your video was actually 0.028. The top half of the 8 wasn't printed correctly. Not that this matters or is important. Thanks for the great tutorial, I'm a new subscriber now!!
Great video! Been looking for a simple explanation using fusion. One thing that may smooth the process would be to name your components the colors in fusion. Thanks again
If you print a temptower that way, the x1 or p1p slows way down because the layer time is lower than 8s. So the temptower tests the temps at speeds like 50mms. Thats not the goal, right? i would turn of the „print slower when layer time is low“ thing. Any other opinions?
At least for the X1 Carbon, the printer does all these calibration steps on its own. I guess that is the reason why its not in the slicer yet. Might change with more P1P being shipped.
It does not do pressure advance or have a setting/ calibration for it. That would be an addition to the test. The test it does every print takes time and filament. The point of using these tests is to save the time at the beginning of every print. And if you are having issues with a certain filament, you can use this to fine tune.
If I useing Bamboo Lab PLA but like mate, basic, metal... Do I need to do it for each one or just one that I prefer because all are Bamboo Orginal PLA?
I really like it (Orca Slicer now) I use it for my Prusa Mini, I wonder if you could add other Prusa printers that are not listed like the MK4 and the XL? I have ordered both and I like the slicer a bit more than the orginal Prusa Slicer...
This actually got me trying it out. The Benchy is currently beeing printed on my Voron.. I'm curious. As for now it looks quite good. Out of the box, setup, ip, material, slicing and then upload to the printer. Everything without hassle, tinkering or fiddleing. I cant imagine what will happen when it actually looks good. :D I've always had todo this, and that, printing callibration cubes like a dice roller.. Untill it eventually still didnt meet up my requirements.
To finally give an answer to this, i'm super(!) excited to tell you guys: thats it. This slicer has now replaced prusa,super and cura for me and my little vorons. *mic drop*
Softfever is just way too behind the main fork. Something like 400 commits behind I calibrate flow ratio and volumetric in softfever and use those values in main bambu studio
If it broke between 210 and 205 , shouldn't you choose 215 or higher temps for strength? Algo the "needles" are meant to be broken to compare the change of strength with temperature.
Ok so I get how to add the custom filaments/colors BUT it’s not very helpful if I go to my printer, can’t see the Ovature PLA SKIN COLOR that I just create in the slicer. Then when i sync the cams in the deliver. It outs it back to generic. Anyway yo get the custom filaments to show in the printer?
Great if you DON'T have a Bambu Lab x1 or x1c were that feature is LITERALLY built in to the printer so you can run it for every single print (if you would like to), RTFM
(Got the X1C) IMHO. there's definitely room for improvement on that front. Why do all those tests everytime if you can do them once - more thoroughly - and save the result? Click calibrate once for every new filament you plan on using .... DONE.
@@iDoPew Because even if you buy the same brand it can still be a difference between two spools if they are from different batches. Made with raw material from different manufacturers, under different humidity conditions etc. etc. in absurdum. Different colors use different dyes that affects the end product in different ways, see for instance Stephans video, th-cam.com/video/BMSp1WDqtpI/w-d-xo.html. Even how you store your filament or the humidity and temperature in the room when printing, will change it's properties between uses.
@@spafil Solid points. However, talking on the level of - in spec - batch and -proper storage - lifetime deviation of a filament, we would have to consider the current software implementation of the startup routine to be VERY precise.... I had a one off print where suddenly nothing would stick. The startup calibration routine did not care that nothing was attached and that the first layer was ugly AF. IMHO the software side is still miles away of what the hardware would be capable of. A lot of improvements to be done.
Is it though? It seems like the preset settings still need some work at times. It does the calibration but I still notice certain defects in prints that require manually setting tweaks
Does this allow complete use of the printer without signing on to any websites or using the internet in any way? I am concerned about connecting any devices to the CCP or having any devices in my home talking to them.
Check out my video for LAN only on the Bambu X1C. If you are not using LAN only on the Bambu, it is using the cloud. SF/ Orca Slicer can communicate with the Bambu printer via the cloud or LAN only. Bambu Studio has the same functionality.
@@lendizzle77 Checked the nozzle, looks good. I think is because I am down to cardboard spools! Iwas actually going to start printing the "Bambu Lab Filament Spool Switcher & Winder..." this morning, before I saw your video and thought I wanted to do your tricks first. Which came first? The hen or the egg?! I will have to revisit this procedure - thanks anyway, much appreciated.
I think you did it wrong. You allowed flow calibration on the first run and that already adjusted the calibrations, no wonder you got 0. You need to re-do all the tests after a power cycle
I followed this video (and the Orca documentation) to the letter and my P1P went from printing like a dream to glitching out and giving me spaghetti for every print. Finally on a hunch I went back and changed the temperature back to the slicer's default of 220C and viola, prints started being perfect again. It was changing the temperature right at the first step that was causing all of the issues - but looking at the temperature tower, the lower temperature I had picked for my filament (205C) was the best looking level. Just throwing this out there for anyone that has a similar situation. In my case, I guess "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" will get a little more respect moving forward.
Thanks for that tip!
How would you explain this?
@@chrisr236 It's explained because it's printing the temp tower at much slower speeds than default Bambu printing profiles. Temp is not a one and done calibration, you have to test against the speeds you are using. Increased print speed needs increased temps.
@@Ferrous_Bueller Got it. So it seems like the temp of the hotend is not neccassarily the same temp as the filament as it comes out of the hotend? I assume the speed it comes out at, and therefore the amount of time that the filament is in contact with the hotend, determines its real temperature.
@@chrisr236 correct, filament temp would ultimately be the result of hotend temperature + the amount of time it spent in contact with the hotend. I’ve found that up to 80mm a second a hotend temp of 210 works as a general PLA rule. From 80mm a second to 200mm a second, a hotend temp of 220 works. 200mm a second to 400mm a second 225-230 works. Over 400mm a second the Bambu isn’t equipped to print well; the hotend and cooling both can’t handle it.
Very helpful video - I’d been avoiding trying Soft Fever because the big attraction of the X1C for me is the lack of fiddling I need to do. You showing this though made me realize how simple it is, I’m going to give it a try.
nice new logo. Great info. Have been interested about other slicers. have had some problems with specific prints. This video will help me fine tune the filament to hopefully correct the problem
Glad to help
Seeing that bambu now allows you to calibrate! Very cool
Thank you for making this video. You have no idea how much filament I wasted trial-and-error style printing BambuLab's PET-CF. I wasn't able to get it printing properly until this video.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Just an observation, you mentioned as you left "flow calibration" ticked that the next tests were going to do that for you, then went on to do the flow calibration from the drop down. I just want to point out that they are completely different. The "flow calibration" in the menu before each print is actually getting the "k value" for linear/pressure advance, where the dropdown is actual filament flow from the extruder. It still only needs to be done once when the filament is loaded into the AMS, then it will remember the value. Then you do it again once you put a different filament in that slot.
Awesome to know that this exists period I like to stick with bamboo filaments but I do know they don't make exotic ones so it's nice to know how to calibrate it.
This is actually massively nice. I knew nothing about this as the X1 is my second printer this year as I didnt have luck with my Ender. Thank you for the great news!
Thank you for taking the time... Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just a hobbyist? Sheesh. You know quite a bit for a hobbyist! This was helpful, thanks
Thanks for watching
Very nice to know that they is another bambu studio 🤘
Yes it is!
Bambu added all of this to their slicer. All except the temperature tower, which you can run from Makerfile.
I think the best line on PA in your video was actually 0.028. The top half of the 8 wasn't printed correctly. Not that this matters or is important. Thanks for the great tutorial, I'm a new subscriber now!!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Been looking for a simple explanation using fusion. One thing that may smooth the process would be to name your components the colors in fusion. Thanks again
Great suggestion!
If you print a temptower that way, the x1 or p1p slows way down because the layer time is lower than 8s. So the temptower tests the temps at speeds like 50mms. Thats not the goal, right? i would turn of the „print slower when layer time is low“ thing. Any other opinions?
Holy shit this is great! Hope it gets adopted by Bambu Studio
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow, how is this not part of the standard bambu labs slicer? Huge overlook if you ask me but glad this exists anyway
Right?
At least for the X1 Carbon, the printer does all these calibration steps on its own. I guess that is the reason why its not in the slicer yet. Might change with more P1P being shipped.
@@axell964 it does the calibrations for any filament? Or just preprogrammed ones in it’s catalog? I was not aware.
It does not do pressure advance or have a setting/ calibration for it. That would be an addition to the test. The test it does every print takes time and filament. The point of using these tests is to save the time at the beginning of every print. And if you are having issues with a certain filament, you can use this to fine tune.
Damn, another helpful and informative video... Alright alright I'll subscribe.
Thanks Len great vid
That’s it! My job is done! Lol. Thanks for the sub. Buy a shirt please. Lol
Kinda makes me want to run Soft Fever. Thanks!
If you do this for all your filament, can you export the profiles from SoftFever and bring them into Bambu’s?
You shouldn't have to do anything. They should be there. Except pressure advance. Studio does not use pressure advance the same way.
Good review Len, thank you!
My pleasure!
This is great. Can't wait to try these out. Would you do these test per brand or per filament?
I do every spool
Makes me wonder if calibration results will differ when filament is less dry...
If I useing Bamboo Lab PLA but like mate, basic, metal... Do I need to do it for each one or just one that I prefer because all are Bamboo Orginal PLA?
They may be really close but the filaments' properties are not all the same. They do not all have the same density, for example.
@@lendizzle77 I understand, thank you very much. Great video's, specially for me as a beginner!
Thanks for watching!
I really like it (Orca Slicer now) I use it for my Prusa Mini, I wonder if you could add other Prusa printers that are not listed like the MK4 and the XL? I have ordered both and I like the slicer a bit more than the orginal Prusa Slicer...
I think so. You could add it as a generic printer worst case. You could also go to the GitHub page and submit a request to add them.
I wonder why you'd choose this over Orca. I started using it a couple days ago and love it.
It wasn't called Orca at the time.
@@lendizzle77 oohhhh I didn't realise this was the same thing. Sweetttt.
I plan on doing a follow up. Stay tuned
How the heck did you change the filiment used so easy!? I mean in bambu studio
push the number corresponding to the filament you want to use. The orange was in the second slot so i pressed 2.
I was gonna ask that too - great tip 👍
@@lendizzle77 I kind of figured that's what you did. Wish u would have known that forever ago haha
I think I first mentioned this in the baby yoda video. I will mention it more since it’s such a handy trick
This actually got me trying it out. The Benchy is currently beeing printed on my Voron.. I'm curious. As for now it looks quite good. Out of the box, setup, ip, material, slicing and then upload to the printer. Everything without hassle, tinkering or fiddleing. I cant imagine what will happen when it actually looks good. :D I've always had todo this, and that, printing callibration cubes like a dice roller.. Untill it eventually still didnt meet up my requirements.
To finally give an answer to this, i'm super(!) excited to tell you guys: thats it. This slicer has now replaced prusa,super and cura for me and my little vorons. *mic drop*
Awesome!
Softfever is just way too behind the main fork. Something like 400 commits behind
I calibrate flow ratio and volumetric in softfever and use those values in main bambu studio
What's missing then?
@r4yker442 nothing. It's literally the same program, but Orca has a new calibration tab.
@@jdavis2609 Nothing anymore, orca recently updated and ported in all the changes bambu has made over the last few months
is all this supposed to be done a normal speed?
That's what I did.
If it broke between 210 and 205 , shouldn't you choose 215 or higher temps for strength? Algo the "needles" are meant to be broken to compare the change of strength with temperature.
That was in the middle with the most force from twisting. I attribute the break to that
Ok so I get how to add the custom filaments/colors BUT it’s not very helpful if I go to my printer, can’t see the Ovature PLA SKIN COLOR that I just create in the slicer. Then when i sync the cams in the deliver. It outs it back to generic. Anyway yo get the custom filaments to show in the printer?
This was a complaint of mine in the review.
If I change nozzle sizes would I have to run tests all over again?
Yes. Flow rate and all of that will be different
How were you changing the filament to be used so fast before you sliced the file. I was black and the all of a sudden it was orange.
Never mind, I found the answer in comments below. Great video.
I can concur that this slicer is God mode
lol
Is there a retraction test?
Not built in. There are 2 other tests that don't have instructions. Maybe I will cover in a future video. Thanks for watching.
Does this software provide the models that you’re printing or do you have to download those?
yes. Once you select the test, the print shows up.
@@lendizzle77 thanks
These are the calibrations from superslicer
Great if you DON'T have a Bambu Lab x1 or x1c were that feature is LITERALLY built in to the printer so you can run it for every single print (if you would like to), RTFM
(Got the X1C) IMHO. there's definitely room for improvement on that front.
Why do all those tests everytime if you can do them once - more thoroughly - and save the result?
Click calibrate once for every new filament you plan on using .... DONE.
@@iDoPew Because even if you buy the same brand it can still be a difference between two spools if they are from different batches. Made with raw material from different manufacturers, under different humidity conditions etc. etc. in absurdum. Different colors use different dyes that affects the end product in different ways, see for instance Stephans video, th-cam.com/video/BMSp1WDqtpI/w-d-xo.html. Even how you store your filament or the humidity and temperature in the room when printing, will change it's properties between uses.
@@spafil Solid points. However, talking on the level of - in spec - batch and -proper storage - lifetime deviation of a filament, we would have to consider the current software implementation of the startup routine to be VERY precise....
I had a one off print where suddenly nothing would stick. The startup calibration routine did not care that nothing was attached and that the first layer was ugly AF. IMHO the software side is still miles away of what the hardware would be capable of. A lot of improvements to be done.
Is it though? It seems like the preset settings still need some work at times. It does the calibration but I still notice certain defects in prints that require manually setting tweaks
Does this allow complete use of the printer without signing on to any websites or using the internet in any way? I am concerned about connecting any devices to the CCP or having any devices in my home talking to them.
Check out my video for LAN only on the Bambu X1C. If you are not using LAN only on the Bambu, it is using the cloud. SF/ Orca Slicer can communicate with the Bambu printer via the cloud or LAN only. Bambu Studio has the same functionality.
The flow test cannot commence, it fails every time! I have changed filament, cleaned the plate and whatnot! Any suggestions?
Check your nozzle. Make sure it is clean.
@@lendizzle77 Thank you for replying, would you not consider the nozzle clean, when it is capable of printing normally with another filament?
No. There could be junk in there not allowing full flow
Had same issue. Video was too long so it didn’t make the cut
@@lendizzle77 Checked the nozzle, looks good. I think is because I am down to cardboard spools! Iwas actually going to start printing the "Bambu Lab Filament Spool Switcher & Winder..." this morning, before I saw your video and thought I wanted to do your tricks first. Which came first? The hen or the egg?! I will have to revisit this procedure - thanks anyway, much appreciated.
softfever is the dev, orcaslicer is the software.
Thanks
I think you did it wrong. You allowed flow calibration on the first run and that already adjusted the calibrations, no wonder you got 0. You need to re-do all the tests after a power cycle
Now imagine that this test (except the the temp-tower maybe) would run fully automated using the LIDAR sensor... MIND...F*****NG....BLOOOOOWN.
Thats where im at, doesnt the x1c do all this anyway automatically?
@@spencerlange125 The hardware would be capable to do it. But AFAIK the software doesn't really do it that troughout yet.
Seems like a whole lotta work to not use the lidar that you're paying for, for flow calibration..
P1P users with the PEI plate might find use in this because the LIDAR sucks on the textured plates sux.
@@lendizzle77 That is true. I personally never liked textured. I have more failures on all my printers because it. Probably not the proper z heights
You got to clear your throat or something man that was driving me crazy
Sorry. Was super sick