Very helpful video. I didn't know how these valves were attached to the copper pipe. Now I know they are compression fittings. Thank you for walking us through each step.
I just started re-plumbing my son's mobile home and it had pex in it, but the pex was brittle, so I'm going back with all copper and I did my first shut off underneath the vanity and I haven't turned the water on yet but I watched your video to make sure I did it right LOL. I haven't soldered a copper pipe in well over 20 years and I was not good at it to begin with.. so I will be letting it sit pressurized for 24 hours before calling it a success. Wish me luck.
Love your videos. Just the gold standard for us DIYers who want to learn. I have installed a lot of fixture shut-off valves in my place over the decades, but I learned several good tips again in this presentation. Your channel is a "MUST subscribe". I'm glad I have!
Thanks for the tutorial, this is is a lot simpler than I thought. I had thought that a plumber's torch would be involved. Neither of my bathroom sinks have shutoff valves, and I've been wanting to add them to let me change out the faucets. Also, go Illini.
Yes open fixtures to drain it. I always solder on a copper x pipe thread adaptor so you have pipe threads sticking out from the wall, and you can simply screw a new valve on.
My scenario is similar but with much higher consequences. The valve needs to be installed on the 1/2” copper leading to the outdoor sillcock. There is a small access hatch above the pipe but there are 2 gas black pipes very close by making soldering quite unsafe. I’m not too confident in Shark Bites so I’m going to try the compression fitting provided I can get BOTH of my fat hands inside the hatch. Wish me luck. Thanks again for the info.
I've watched your videos and Hear for beginners but this video needed a little more.... Like this.. #1. Me personally i would've unsoldered to keep as much Meat to Work With. #2. Compression fittings when tightening, because of the rotation of the tightening it will Slide ever So Sightly Away From the Wall AND is Good practice before Giving is Final Snug ..,. to Thread on the opposite end Nut of Compression Valve to Not Damage the Threads and Tap lightly the Whole Valve in more on the Copper Pipe and Then .........Give it's Final Snug.. Stay Blessed 🙏. Peace.
Nice job, thanks. My wife and I just purchased a house with alot of older sinks and plumbing fixtures. Just about to get in it. I hope you're planning to replace the electrical outlet with a GFCI. I have to do that as well.
Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video. Regarding the tightening of the nut between the angle stop valve and the copper line. Should that be a half or three fourths turn after the nut is hand snug tight.
I'm going to do this in my kitchen, with straight (vertical) valves; old plumbing with supply lines coming up out of the floor (copper). The faucet supply lines are grey PEX (Delta) and I bought an acrylic ferrule for that side of the valve. Wish me luck.
Thanks for an excellent tutorial! Very helpful. One question...given your high skill level and extensive experience (not to mention the luxury of having plenty of space due to the top removal), why didn't you just sweat off the existing copper fitting? I have never done this before and am curious what problems -- besides setting your house aflame -- you could run into while sweating off that fitting.
This one was interesting and since there were 90-degree fittings I needed to remove water which was trapped in the pipe and I couldn't completely drain it down. What this means is the water will cool the pipe enough where you will not be able to desolder the joint or at least with my skill level.
I would have used a shop vac and duct taped a straw or tube to the wand end and sucked the water out and then sweated the pipe til any residual water have evaporated. Want to save as much copper pipe as possible for any future repairs.
This helped because I'm removing an old compression fitting with one like this and it was the last part that I needed. However, I'm wondering, instead of cutting the pipe first, why not take a torch or a heat gun to the old fitting, melt the solder, and then remove. Then sand the end and then if necessary, trim off the edge of pipe, thus maximizing the remaining length of pipe.
I recently replaced the valve to my toilet and what I did was clean up the water line and just pull and twist off the old ferrel. Be careful not to compress the water line. I believe there is a specific tool you can use to remove the old ferrel. This way I kept the pipe intact for the next replacement, which will need to be done again in about 20 years.
Unless you don't have enough room or angle for the Crescent wrench handle, you should never tighten or loosen a nut with the pressure against the movable jaw, only put the pressure on the fixed jaw. If used putting pressure against the movable jaw, it eventually loosens and wares out. I have even seen both a 10" and a 12" 'adjustable wrench' break when used improperly in industrial situations. In this video you had enough room to use your Crescent wrench correctly.
The level of water in the bowl also depends on the built in trap. If the toilet has been designed with a low trap, you will not be able to keep a lot of water in the bowl. Look at a cross section of a typical toilet and you'll see what I mean.
I see on most of your videos after you cut off the copper waterline you ONLY EMERY CLOTH THE OUTSIDE OF THE COPPER pipe. Shouldn't you deburr the inside of the copper pipe also so that it smooth water flow through the pipe?
With so little room left on the pipe, would it not be a good idea, after making the cut, instead of putting the shut off valve put a 2 inch pipe with a connector so if in time the new valve fails, another new valve will have over an inch of pipe left?
I liked it. I have to change my valves bc they installed cheap ones before my time. By the way, what's the best way to find a rattling pipe when turning on the hot water? Thanks
You don't always have to cut the water line. You can remove the old ferrel by pulling it off. I believe there is a tool that helps you do that, but a channel lock can also be used. Just be careful not to crush the water line. If you are not replacing an old compression valve, them you'll have to follow the instructions in the video and cut the water line.
I hate when viewers comment on videos but I can't resist adding my two cents on this one. To get added space on the pipe the flange could have been eliminated since it is inside the cabinet. Just use some caulk around the pipe .
What do you do if your in a commercial setting where you can’t shut the water off? Is there another way to replace the valve without shutting the water off?
Another great video! Can you use the 1/4 turn valve on Pex tubing? Plumber changed them from copper. I want to try to attach new faucet myself! Your good videos give me confidence that I can do it and save a coupla hundred bucks!
I am refurbishing my 30 year old mobile home bathroom. I want to replace the old plastic supply lines and the plastic shutoff valves, while crimping new ends to the supply lines. Any suggestions on how to crimp and replace those would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
My stub out is too short to cut off the old soldered shut off valve. Can I remove it and use a new compression valve on the same area the old valve was soldered to?
That flange is angled out quite a bit and decreases the room left for the new vale, do they make a flange that’s flat to give another 1/8 or 3/16ths or so?
Extremely helpful. I just replaced the hot and cold shut-off valves in the laundry room. No drips from the cold side but there is a small drip on the hot side. I cranked down on the compression nut as much as physically possible and there is that drip and dribble of water. Any thoughts? Thanks again!
I do not think I have a full inch of pipe sticking out of wall. I have an old leaking sweated on valve under my sink with a resident bucket to catch leaks. I am no longer able to use the sink because of this needed repair. I wanted to switch to a compression valve 1/4 turn such as you demonstrated. Since I cannot afford a plumber, and don't have a full inch of pipe to work with, what can I do?
Would you mind telling me why you don’t use a compression sleeve puller? Or a heat gun if it was sauntered on? So you wouldn’t have to shorten your copper pipe?
Hi, very informative video. I have a shut off valve with built in supply lines that are attached to the hot and cold side of the faucet. I want to change the faucet. Question 1: Do I have to change the shut off valves too? 2: If I need to change the shut off valves then how do I know if it is a pressurized valve or not? Thanks in advance
You should not have to change the shutoff valves but you can test them to ensure you can stop the flow of water without any leaks prior to taking off the water lines and swapping the faucet.
What if I don't have any extra pipe to cut like at all?? Trying to fix a supply shut off valve in a kitchen. Like the current nut and ferral will not come off the supply line. And it's almost even with the sheet rock already.
Hi, I don't have the benefit of extra pipe coming from my wall to cut off the water valve, and mine is stuck, I've tried your heat suggestion, I've even tried soapy water, but I can't budge it, I am nervous about doing damage to interior pipe holding valve, to be honest, I can't tell which bolt to loosen, one seems to be part of the valve and then there is a part against the wall. I've been camping out here with no water, yes, I may resort to the compression cap to have running water, but need to complete toilet for use, any suggestions would be great, your videos have helped me so much.
My water in the toilet bowl itself is lower in a few days if not used, I've tried to adjust everything. I'm not sure why this is happening. When I flush the bowl, It feels to the proper level. I noticed a few drops of water on the float valve. I don't see any leaks anywhere and don't notice it running at all. Any idea what's wrong?
Whats the reason for cutting the copper pipe? Im new to plumbing im a diy'er seen few videos were they cut it and other were they didnt can u explain plz
I'm not a plumber, but as far as I know there are only two options here: 1) cut the pipe 2) unsolder the old fitting . Perhaps he didn't have a blowtorch or was not comfortable with soldering.
I thought you'd put teflon tape on the male threads of that 1/4-turn angle value to prevent leaking around the threads as a precaution. Some use thread sealant (TFE paste) or pipe dope on the copper from the end of the copper pipe to the compression fitting.
Hmmm, I am not a professional but for compression fittings I don't add anything extra and haven't had any issue. For pipe thread fittings I agree teflon tape is a must.
I was also wondering if the tape is needed. I just replaced both shutoff valves under our kitchen sink. One of them has a very small leak still, I’ve tried tighten it but it still has the leak. I’m going to remove it and try tape on the threads. Any other suggestions? Thanks
The threads are not providing the seal, the sleeve is doing all the work. If you want to help seal it put pipe dope on the sleeve - fyi the sleeve is the piece that gets compressed
If using a compression removal tool would I just clean off the copper tube with the sand paper and then proceed to install the new compression water supply valve as shown in this video? I think if I cut my copper pipe, I won't have room to screw on the new valve. It's going to be very close to the wall.
Hey Scott, I'm looking to add shut off valves under the sink in my (older) bathroom, which currently has none. There is less than an inch of pipe available to cut (less than half of the width of the small pipe cutter you use in this video). Is it still possible to install the shut off valves? If so, how should I approach doing this? I imagine, if it is possible, that there would be just enough space to put the valve if I can remove the current connection piece, but it doesn't seem like that's how you're doing it here.
Hey Dan, assuming this is copper pipe there is an option where you could heat up the current fitting which should solidify the solder and then you could remove the fitting and get the pipe length you need. I couldn’t do that because I couldn’t get all the water out of the pipe so I wasn’t able to heat up the pipe enough with a torch since the water was continuing to cool the fitting.
This really is a poor explanation on how to do this valve replacement. For those who can't cut the pipe or don't want to, there should have been an explanation on how to remove the valve and ferrule. BrassCraft recommends putting oil on the valve threads before tightening the valve nut. The most critical part is how much to tighten the nut without damaging the ferrule or under-tightening it with the potential to pop off and flood the house. This valve replacement carries a great deal of risk, and you could have done a far better job explaining how to do it.
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Very helpful video. I didn't know how these valves were attached to the copper pipe. Now I know they are compression fittings. Thank you for walking us through each step.
I just started re-plumbing my son's mobile home and it had pex in it, but the pex was brittle, so I'm going back with all copper and I did my first shut off underneath the vanity and I haven't turned the water on yet but I watched your video to make sure I did it right LOL. I haven't soldered a copper pipe in well over 20 years and I was not good at it to begin with.. so I will be letting it sit pressurized for 24 hours before calling it a success. Wish me luck.
Love your videos. Just the gold standard for us DIYers who want to learn. I have installed a lot of fixture shut-off valves in my place over the decades, but I learned several good tips again in this presentation. Your channel is a "MUST subscribe". I'm glad I have!
Hey Ron, thanks so much!
Excellent video. I have learned from other plumbers to use a mini hack saw blade to cut the ferrule or use a ferrule removing device.
The existing connection was soldered, not a compression fitting.
Good camera work, sharp subject focus, excellent narration, and important topic.
Grade? A+.
Thanks!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs and no disturbing music!! Thank You
Thanks for the tutorial, this is is a lot simpler than I thought. I had thought that a plumber's torch would be involved. Neither of my bathroom sinks have shutoff valves, and I've been wanting to add them to let me change out the faucets.
Also, go Illini.
ILL ! Best of luck on your project.
Yes open fixtures to drain it. I always solder on a copper x pipe thread adaptor so you have pipe threads sticking out from the wall, and you can simply screw a new valve on.
My scenario is similar but with much higher consequences. The valve needs to be installed on the 1/2” copper leading to the outdoor sillcock. There is a small access hatch above the pipe but there are 2 gas black pipes very close by making soldering quite unsafe. I’m not too confident in Shark Bites so I’m going to try the compression fitting provided I can get BOTH of my fat hands inside the hatch. Wish me luck.
Thanks again for the info.
I've watched your videos and Hear for beginners but this video needed a little more.... Like this..
#1. Me personally i would've unsoldered to keep as much Meat to Work With.
#2. Compression fittings when tightening, because of the rotation of the tightening it will Slide ever So Sightly Away From the Wall AND is Good practice before Giving is Final Snug ..,. to Thread on the opposite end Nut of Compression Valve to Not Damage the Threads and Tap lightly the Whole Valve in more on the Copper Pipe and Then .........Give it's Final Snug..
Stay Blessed 🙏. Peace.
extremely un-useful explanation for #2 there.
Excellent video as usual. I was wondering why you didn't use a blow torch to remove the old valve. You would have had more pipe to work with
I for one don’t know how to use se a blow torch so I appreciate the much simpler option.
@@hokypuk1 Very easy and could have had more copper to work with
Nice job, thanks. My wife and I just purchased a house with alot of older sinks and plumbing fixtures. Just about to get in it. I hope you're planning to replace the electrical outlet with a GFCI. I have to do that as well.
Hey Sean, good eye and yep swapped out that receptacle to GFCI prior to putting that condo back on the market.
Good video, my problem may be vary little exposed copper pipe so I’m going to have take the nut and ring off so I still have that 1-inch left,
Thank you! Great series of plumbing videos! Really helps a lot!
Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video. Regarding the tightening of the nut between the angle stop valve and the copper line. Should that be a half or three fourths turn after the nut is hand snug tight.
Excellent and short! Mine just fell off. Ugh, this after shark biting busted copper pipe else ware. Thx
I'm going to do this in my kitchen, with straight (vertical) valves; old plumbing with supply lines coming up out of the floor (copper). The faucet supply lines are grey PEX (Delta) and I bought an acrylic ferrule for that side of the valve. Wish me luck.
This was a very helpful video at first ii could not get off thank you for all your help.
I like the way explain your plumbing job. Keep up the good work
Thanks and will do!
Thanks for an excellent tutorial! Very helpful. One question...given your high skill level and extensive experience (not to mention the luxury of having plenty of space due to the top removal), why didn't you just sweat off the existing copper fitting? I have never done this before and am curious what problems -- besides setting your house aflame -- you could run into while sweating off that fitting.
This one was interesting and since there were 90-degree fittings I needed to remove water which was trapped in the pipe and I couldn't completely drain it down. What this means is the water will cool the pipe enough where you will not be able to desolder the joint or at least with my skill level.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks, I would have kept trying to sweat it off and not through about the water.
I would have used a shop vac and duct taped a straw or tube to the wand end and sucked the water out and then sweated the pipe til any residual water have evaporated. Want to save as much copper pipe as possible for any future repairs.
Great video! I was looking for this exact video, very informative. Thank you so much! 🙏
Happy to help!
Amazing, good thing to learn! Thank you.
😊thank you so much good teaching
The exact video we needed. Thank you
This helped because I'm removing an old compression fitting with one like this and it was the last part that I needed. However, I'm wondering, instead of cutting the pipe first, why not take a torch or a heat gun to the old fitting, melt the solder, and then remove. Then sand the end and then if necessary, trim off the edge of pipe, thus maximizing the remaining length of pipe.
I recently replaced the valve to my toilet and what I did was clean up the water line and just pull and twist off the old ferrel. Be careful not to compress the water line. I believe there is a specific tool you can use to remove the old ferrel. This way I kept the pipe intact for the next replacement, which will need to be done again in about 20 years.
Got to use pipe dope on compression fittings. Also I would have just unsweat the 90 so I had more pipe to work with.
You could have soldered on an extension on while the system was drained down
Unless you don't have enough room or angle for the Crescent wrench handle, you should never tighten or loosen a nut with the pressure against the movable jaw, only put the pressure on the fixed jaw. If used putting pressure against the movable jaw, it eventually loosens and wares out. I have even seen both a 10" and a 12" 'adjustable wrench' break when used improperly in industrial situations. In this video you had enough room to use your Crescent wrench correctly.
I missed the reason why the old valves were not unsoldered rather than cutting the tubing - which seems like a really bad idea.
He didn't say, but my guess is that he doesn't have a torch or is not experienced/comfortable with soldering
The level of water in the bowl also depends on the built in trap. If the toilet has been designed with a low trap, you will not be able to keep a lot of water in the bowl. Look at a cross section of a typical toilet and you'll see what I mean.
I see on most of your videos after you cut off the copper waterline you ONLY EMERY CLOTH THE OUTSIDE OF THE COPPER pipe.
Shouldn't you deburr the inside of the copper pipe also so that it smooth water flow through the pipe?
Yes he should have, using a deburring tool.
With so little room left on the pipe, would it not be a good idea, after making the cut, instead of putting the shut off valve put a 2 inch pipe with a connector so if in time the new valve fails, another new valve will have over an inch of pipe left?
I liked it. I have to change my valves bc they installed cheap ones before my time. By the way, what's the best way to find a rattling pipe when turning on the hot water? Thanks
good, clear video. well narated. thank you
Thanks for the video. I can't get the pop up drain from leaking. Suggestions?
You don't always have to cut the water line. You can remove the old ferrel by pulling it off. I believe there is a tool that helps you do that, but a channel lock can also be used. Just be careful not to crush the water line. If you are not replacing an old compression valve, them you'll have to follow the instructions in the video and cut the water line.
Could you have used heat to get the old soldered one off? Thanks nice video
I hate when viewers comment on videos but I can't resist adding my two cents on this one. To get added space on the pipe the flange could have been eliminated since it is inside the cabinet. Just use some caulk around the pipe .
Technically the tool is supposed to be used in the other direction, but I like the close ups.
very helpful, thank you!
When tightening the quarter turn valve onto copper pipe how tight should it be so as not to bend the ferel and cause a leak?
What do you do if your in a commercial setting where you can’t shut the water off? Is there another way to replace the valve without shutting the water off?
Another great video! Can you use the 1/4 turn valve on Pex tubing? Plumber changed them from copper. I want to try to attach new faucet myself! Your good videos give me confidence that I can do it and save a coupla hundred bucks!
Yes, you can get 1/4 turn valves for PEX which will crimp on a PEX type B line or you could also use Sharkbite.
I am refurbishing my 30 year old mobile home bathroom. I want to replace the old plastic supply lines and the plastic shutoff valves, while crimping new ends to the supply lines. Any suggestions on how to crimp and replace those would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
My stub out is too short to cut off the old soldered shut off valve. Can I remove it and use a new compression valve on the same area the old valve was soldered to?
Thanks!
Put a little bit of fritz on the ferule!
That flange is angled out quite a bit and decreases the room left for the new vale, do they make a flange that’s flat to give another 1/8 or 3/16ths or so?
I think the split flanges (which can go around a pipe when the valve is installed) might give a bit more room amzn.to/3dEeH9n
Extremely helpful. I just replaced the hot and cold shut-off valves in the laundry room. No drips from the cold side but there is a small drip on the hot side. I cranked down on the compression nut as much as physically possible and there is that drip and dribble of water. Any thoughts? Thanks again!
Did you sand it down a bit to clean the pipe?
I think you cranked down to much on tightening the compression fitting .
There a gages to check the space between the to compression nuts.
I do not think I have a full inch of pipe sticking out of wall. I have an old leaking sweated on valve under my sink with a resident bucket to catch leaks. I am no longer able to use the sink because of this needed repair. I wanted to switch to a compression valve 1/4 turn such as you demonstrated. Since I cannot afford a plumber, and don't have a full inch of pipe to work with, what can I do?
Would you mind telling me why you don’t use a compression sleeve puller? Or a heat gun if it was sauntered on? So you wouldn’t have to shorten your copper pipe?
So if you use a compression sleeve puller, there is no need to cut off the pipe where the old ferrulel ring sat?
What do you do if your old fittings are all the way yo the wall and there nothing to cut?
I think it would've been better to desolder and then put on the new compression shut off valve.
Do we have to cut the pipe ? What’s the criteria
Hi, very informative video. I have a shut off valve with built in supply lines that are attached to the hot and cold side of the faucet. I want to change the faucet. Question 1: Do I have to change the shut off valves too? 2: If I need to change the shut off valves then how do I know if it is a pressurized valve or not? Thanks in advance
You should not have to change the shutoff valves but you can test them to ensure you can stop the flow of water without any leaks prior to taking off the water lines and swapping the faucet.
If I have cpvc, is it better to do compression fitting or just go with solvent valve?
What if I don't have any extra pipe to cut like at all?? Trying to fix a supply shut off valve in a kitchen. Like the current nut and ferral will not come off the supply line. And it's almost even with the sheet rock already.
What if there is not enough pipe out the wall to cut it off? Can I just clean it up really well? I literally have the nut space alone from the wall
Hi, I don't have the benefit of extra pipe coming from my wall to cut off the water valve, and mine is stuck, I've tried your heat suggestion, I've even tried soapy water, but I can't budge it, I am nervous about doing damage to interior pipe holding valve, to be honest, I can't tell which bolt to loosen, one seems to be part of the valve and then there is a part against the wall. I've been camping out here with no water, yes, I may resort to the compression cap to have running water, but need to complete toilet for use, any suggestions would be great, your videos have helped me so much.
WD 40 and a few light taps with the end of the wrench did it for me.
@@denisef1153 Great news, thanks for the response.
Hey bud, can I use those shut off valves to change the ones for the toiler?
Yeah it would be the same valve for the toilet.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you bud
when i turn the compression valve clockwise, it doesn't stop the flow of water. what am i doing wrong?
My water in the toilet bowl itself is lower in a few days if not used, I've tried to adjust everything. I'm not sure why this is happening. When I flush the bowl, It feels to the proper level. I noticed a few drops of water on the float valve. I don't see any leaks anywhere and don't notice it running at all. Any idea what's wrong?
I currently have a solder toilet water shut off valve can I replace it with a compression valve just like you did for the vanity
Did you forget to deburr the copper pipe post cut?
Whats the reason for cutting the copper pipe? Im new to plumbing im a diy'er seen few videos were they cut it and other were they didnt can u explain plz
I'm not a plumber, but as far as I know there are only two options here: 1) cut the pipe 2) unsolder the old fitting . Perhaps he didn't have a blowtorch or was not comfortable with soldering.
My new compression ring just slides and is not gripping? Is the tuve thinner than it should?
I thought you'd put teflon tape on the male threads of that 1/4-turn angle value to prevent leaking around the threads as a precaution. Some use thread sealant (TFE paste) or pipe dope on the copper from the end of the copper pipe to the compression fitting.
Hmmm, I am not a professional but for compression fittings I don't add anything extra and haven't had any issue. For pipe thread fittings I agree teflon tape is a must.
I was also wondering if the tape is needed. I just replaced both shutoff valves under our kitchen sink. One of them has a very small leak still, I’ve tried tighten it but it still has the leak. I’m going to remove it and try tape on the threads. Any other suggestions?
Thanks
@@cosmo9362 I put Teflon tape AND pipe dope on the threads . Works like a charm for me.
The threads are not providing the seal, the sleeve is doing all the work. If you want to help seal it put pipe dope on the sleeve - fyi the sleeve is the piece that gets compressed
@hopkinshome3799 Exactly true, that's why Teflon tape /pipe sealant not needed for threads.
My pipe is threaded so I feel lucky ...
So what do you do if you have a slow leak? Is a little pipe dope on the ferrule a solution before compressing it down?
You mean a slow leak on the new valve install? If so I think you just need to tighten it a bit, until the leak stops.
Instead of cutting the pipe i have use a compression removal tool. It saves time , money and elimates shorting your pipe.
Hey Joe, good tip. I have seen those and might need to add it to the toolbox.
If using a compression removal tool would I just clean off the copper tube with the sand paper and then proceed to install the new compression water supply valve as shown in this video? I think if I cut my copper pipe, I won't have room to screw on the new valve. It's going to be very close to the wall.
@@jennyvieve9108 correct, use emery paper or 120 grit sandpaper to clean around the outside and inside of the tube.
How do fix it if it barely leaks on that bottom side. It’s so light it has t even dropped yet after 30 minutes
I think you can just tighten the compression nut a bit
WhT about the shark bite type shut off connectors?
pretty sweet, right?
Hey Scott,
I'm looking to add shut off valves under the sink in my (older) bathroom, which currently has none. There is less than an inch of pipe available to cut (less than half of the width of the small pipe cutter you use in this video). Is it still possible to install the shut off valves? If so, how should I approach doing this? I imagine, if it is possible, that there would be just enough space to put the valve if I can remove the current connection piece, but it doesn't seem like that's how you're doing it here.
Hey Dan, assuming this is copper pipe there is an option where you could heat up the current fitting which should solidify the solder and then you could remove the fitting and get the pipe length you need. I couldn’t do that because I couldn’t get all the water out of the pipe so I wasn’t able to heat up the pipe enough with a torch since the water was continuing to cool the fitting.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thank you! I have to check if the pipe is copper, but if it is, I'll try this method.
You might need to buy a pipe of the same material and solder it
Uggghh, you didn't deburr the ID (inside diameter) of the pipe.
ILL -
This really is a poor explanation on how to do this valve replacement. For those who can't cut the pipe or don't want to, there should have been an explanation on how to remove the valve and ferrule. BrassCraft recommends putting oil on the valve threads before tightening the valve nut. The most critical part is how much to tighten the nut without damaging the ferrule or under-tightening it with the potential to pop off and flood the house. This valve replacement carries a great deal of risk, and you could have done a far better job explaining how to do it.
Or in my case water all over me cause I can't take the counter off
edit: how they fk did that not bow off the end of that. Fkn water pressure alone
Thanks!