You saved me from calling in a plumber because I couldn't figure out why the nut wasn't coming off , just turning around the copper pipe, until you showed the correct tool to use for the job. I will be changing all the other shut off values now since that tool makes the job so easy. Great easy to follow video.
@SandraPatricia That’s great! I’m glad the video saved you a plumbers visit! I’m working on a video now showing ‘SharkByte’ fittings which are much easier to install that compression fittings. So once you get the old valve and fitting off, the SharkBytes just ‘snap’ on! Take a look at that option too. Thanks again for the SuperThanks - very kind of you!
Excellent video on how to replace a cut off supply valve! Not only informative and instructional, but very pleasing to hear and watch! Thank you very much, sir!
Enjoyed the video. I'm a 69 yr old DIY guy who has repaired many home plumbing projects. Came upon a similar issue needing to remove the compression ring but from a PEX line. I wasn't aware such a tool existed. I'm going to order this tool for this similar issue I face. Hope this works with PEX. Thanks for the video.
@grgomez247 I’ve never tried the tool with PEX but it seems like it should work just the same. It’s still pulling the compression nut forward. With the insert in place in the tube it should be rigid enough to hold up. I’d be interested to hear how it works for you. Please come back and let us know how it worked. Thanks for the comment!
@Grant Garrard Thanks very much, I really appreciate that! Every like and every subscriber really helps out on a new channel! I’m glad you found the video useful!
Live saver! Most videos say to cut off the ferrule but sometimes there isn't enough to cut off and still install a new valve without sweating in an extension.
If you open up a faucet lower in the house than the one you plan to work on, you can decrease the amount of water you need to drain from the one you are going to work on.
@@DougForce I don't know how much opening one on the same floor would help, other than a possible speed up in draining the pipes, which is really all that a lower level opening does.
@@DougForce u saved me today :) I was about to cry when I couldn’t get my nasty valve off. Trying to replace my faucet. Now I know why plumbers cost so much :)
As a woman, I am always impressed at how clever men are. I can learn to do what they do sometimes but I'm not someone to think it up on my own. Good work, Mr. Force. I can't wait to fix the ugly mess behind my own toilet!
@Trish Fitzpatrick Thanks for the kind words! I’m confident you can do it - take a look at SharkBite fittings too. I haven’t done a video on those yet but they literally snap on to the pipe and carry a 25 year warranty!
As a woman, you are just as clever as men, and can do anything you want to. I am a 40yo man, who has just began to attempt some DIY. Already I’ve change 2 sets of taps, mounted a TV, changed socket and light switches etc. It’s amazing what you can accomplish if you set about the task.
Very good demonstration. I got inspired to change all the valves, good or ugly as new make house looks better and me feel much better specially that recently tried to install a bidet and noticed how wrong things can go.
@Sam Sen I’m glad it was helpful and I agree with you, new ones look much nicer. I also agree about how plumbing can go wrong, but those are learning experiences!
Thanks so much. Having to replace a 73 year-old toilet. It's original. Not sure about the valve, but it looked old when we moved in 21 years ago. Just stopped working today. It was time. The toilet and the valve have done more than their fair share of work. Thanks for the hint about the ferrel puller as well!
@Becky Mcdonald Thanks for the comment! Wow, 73 year old toilet! I bet that will be an adventure! You might be able to sell that on eBay! Let me know how it turns out, I bet you will have a story on this one!
@@DougForce OMGosh, you have no idea. Now I am sure I also have 9"x9" asphalt and asbestos tiles. Most of them are in good condition, and I can just encapsulate them, but not so under the toilet, or at least I don't think so. Hoping most of the concrete is still intact. Also hoping I won't have to call an asbestos removal company, and can just encapsulate those as well. The joys of an old house. Lol
@Becky McDonald Sounds like the fun is continuing! I had to replace some concrete under a toilet last year. It actually went better than I expected but I didn’t have to deal with any asbestos!
been wanting to do this for years but was afraid to tackle it on my own. Not now, very good video showing how easy it can be if you have the right tools. Plus doing it yourself you can afford those.
@keith walker Im very glad you found the video helpful! I completely agree, I can buy whatever tools I need MUCH cheaper than paying a professional and then I have the tools for the future. And in most cases, if I tackle something I can’t handle (hasn’t happened yet) I can always call in a professional and it won’t cost any more than if I hadn’t tried so nothing to lose by giving it a try. I haven’t made a video yet but if you want to take a look at SharkByte fittings, they are even easier - they literally just snap on and work very well. Take a look at those. 😀
@@isidroenriquez4845 It may have looked that way but I didn't deform the pipe and I haven't had any issues with that fitting so far. Thanks for checking out the viideo!
@Miles Away - lol you are literally a “bear to work with!” - that’s awesome! Unusual names are the best! I’m sure you can complete this task successfully! I hope you will consider subscribing and let me know how your changeout goes!
@@DougForce thanks man-like Indiana Jones, I got the nickname of the dog. I screwed up, repeatedly, and it took 3 trips to Lowe’s….to bring it to a leak that is at least catchable in a bucket. It blew one time and was like a pressure washer-when testing. Flooded through to my first floor. Niiice. Sorry, good reminder!
@@DougForce hey Doug! I got it stopped! With a shark bite end cap. The sink isn’t useable, and it has spurred my renovation plans. I have bare (bear) 3/8” copper pipes coming out of the wall for the hot and cold. To use a shark bite-do I have to first put a 3/8 to 1/2” adapter on the copper line? Thanks boss!
@Miles Away Man I hate that you have had so many challenges but sometimes that’s how plumbing goes. Still you are learning how to resolve those problems and experience is the best teacher! I’ve seen SharkBite fitting that go from 3/8 to 1/2 and others too - you should be able to match to whatever sizes you need, all with SharkBite parts….
@@DougForce thanks boss!! I got a 3/8 cap-Amazon seemed to only have 3/8 to 1/4 adapters, but not 3/8 directly to twisty thing to sink. I am reticent to trust the guys at Lowe’s, again. I’d rather watch your videos!
Thank you so much for having this video in place. I am getting the right tools to do a decent job as yours. Great step-by-step demonstration! Well done!!
@deancitroni4447 I don’t remember the cut being too badly off square so it might have been the camera angle. I do remember it was unhandy to get the camera in the right place! Lol. It hasn’t leaked a drop in several years now. I’m thinking of replacing it with a SharkByte just to have a followup video.
Wow sir I can’t believe I just watched this in full lol 😂 u r very talented I never knew how this was done you are the life saver youtube has so many talented people like yourself sharing your skills and helping people out thank you
had issue where screw on valve was threaded onto a male thread that was soldered onto pipe- tried to replace but kept leaking so i cut off the soldered part and preapred the copper pipe and used sharkbite valve worked awesome
Nice video for soft water jobs, but what can you do when hard water deposits lock the ferrule nut to the valve and you can't get the valve or ferrule nut to turn when the assembly is located very close to the cabinet wall. After 20 minutes of effort, I gave up and just connected the new faucet to the old valve and left the problem to the future. PS - the reason I wanted to replace the valve was that it was "frozen" in the open position and could not be budged to turn off the water flow (oddly, the corresponding hot water valve worked perfectly and they were both installed at the same time).
@UTArch1 I’ve encountered that kind of issue before as well and the solution is always the same. Bigger job. You have to open the wall to gain access to the pipe, cut off the frozen valve and extend the pipe. I too have left those issues to the future but a leak in that area means you have to cut water to the house - which gets painful quickly! lol I broke a frozen valve trying to release it and had to open the wall in the adjoining room to get in and replace the whole house cutoff - which meant cutting water at the street. I called in a pro for that one! lol
Very good instructional video. The only change I would suggest is to replace the metal ferrule to a plastic one since your pipe (looks like pex). The metal ferrule will eventually cut into the plastic pipe.
@melvinmcgregor2673 Thanks for the kind words. It does look like Pex but it’s actually hard pvc - very weird. I’m planning to swap it out with a SharkByte valve one of these days, which should be an easy change. We will see!
@Rich Estep Me too, either cutting it off with a hacksaw or wrestling if off with pliers, trying not to get the pipe out of round. This tool is much, much easier! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Thanks for the tip on the ferrule ring puller! I bought a Husky Ferrule removal tool ($12) since that’s all they had in stock at Home Depot. It worked as it should but because of the tight space under my bathroom sink cabinet, it still took me 4 hours to complete the job. Cut my thumb in the process but all is well now. The biggest pain about this job is trying to lay underneath with the corner of the cabinet box cutting into your back. Very uncomfortable and not much room for your arms to extend. A towel worked ok to pad the edge, otherwise it would have been unbearable. Both of the old valve ferrule rings were seized onto the copper. I didn’t want to cut/shorten the pipe, since it only sticks out so far, so the puller was key. I used a new Compression Valve for the replacement, not one of those press on Shark style valves. I’ve been told the sharks won’t pull off but I feel uncomfortable knowing there is no nut to tighten down on the pipe. Anyway just wanted to post my experience changing my valves and faucet for the first time.
@Tom P - Under cabinet jobs are the WORST! I never have the right tool at hand and as you noted, very uncomfortable! I use an old pillow to cushion the cabinet edge. I’ve become more and more impressed with SharkBite fittings. Have used several and had no issues. They carry a 25 year warranty too. Congratulations on a successful job! You saved a ton of cash by not hiring a plumber! Thanks for the kind words and for the comment!
I recently used a Shark Bite fitting. They work fine. The only recommendation is to install them out in the open so you can monitor them for any possible leaks.
@@DougForce I have a lot of trouble so I'm just watching videos right now but I wanted to share something that I saw. I saw someone take an ironing board and lay that across the cabinet. it's padded of course and then the worker laid down on the ironing board and so they couldn't feel the edge of the cabinet. Hope you can use that tip.
@Deadmanswife That’s a great idea! I’m not sure a full sized ironing board would fit in some smaller bathrooms, but a smaller board definitely would! I’m going to look at that. Thanks for sharing the tip!
@@DougForce removed. They're made of a fairly brittle ceramic, so after the weld you just tap them with us with a welding hammer or something they come right off.
I am going to get one of those. I have the puller that looks like a great puller with two arms that have 90'0 bends in them that fit behind the nut it works but your tool you show involves a lot less fumbling around the one I have also can be used to pull those stubborn plastic faucet handles. Many times if the nut looks pretty new I want to change to a quarter turn valve but the hole in the new valve is not as deep as the old one so I just pull the ferrule closer to the end of the tubing with your tool I will pull them all the way off as yours is much easier to use. Thank you for the video
@Bill Hale Glad you found the video useful - I have several different styles of pullers as you do - some work well in some situations, some work better in others. This style really does make it easy to pull a struck ferrule off. You can't have tool many tools, I always say! Thanks for watching!
@Steve Turtle It’s a lifesaver! The last one I changed without the tool fought me every step of the way, and I had to stand on my head to reach it. That’s when I went looking for a better way and found this tool. It’s great!
@Isaac Ellis I agree, no reason to remove the nut or ferrule if they are in good shape. I only replace them if it’s leaking or the nut is rusty and corroded.
@Rick Kane I don’t have a video on soldering connections but I do intend to make one. There are several good videos on TH-cam - I’ll post one below. Soldered connections do not have threads or nuts. th-cam.com/video/b3c85sj2i7s/w-d-xo.html
@@DougForce it was done by past owners. It a regular faucet turn off connected to a square block. It's frozen in open position. It's connected to the toilet. It's not hurting but would like to br able to switch it out.
if this was a copper pipe can i reuse the same surface area where the old ferrule and nut was? Or do i need to cut off the old area for the new ferrule to be compressed
@Akane Soratobu I have never had an issue with putting a new ferrule on a copper pipe in the same place the old ferrule was located. If the pipe is generally in good shape it shouldn’t be an issue.
Thank you for this video, it helped a lot, but now I have another problem….it’s leaking where the compression nut is in the back. Tried tightening it a little more, still leaks, then loosening it, leaks then too. What do I do?
@Victoria Rose Plumbing is always an adventure Victoria! You ‘should’ not need any Teflon tape with a compression fitting but it’s the easiest way to resolve an issue like this. Get some Teflon tape from the hardware store (it’s inexpensive) and wrap the ferrule tightly with a single layer or a tiny bit more. Then retighten the compression nut and see how that goes…..
Right after I wrote my first question, I decided to take the valve off and do the whole thing all over again. This time I squinted my eyes and screwed everything back in with extreme concentration while hearing your voice in my head….and low and behold, that was trick and no more leak! 😂 You saved us $500 (that’s what we were quoted to install new toilet and valve), thank you! Feeling proud of myself for not giving up. Now I’m gonna tackle fixing a slow water flow on the hot side of a bathroom sink faucet. Do you have a video for that? I really like your style of instruction.
@Victoria Rose Congratulations on sticking with it and completing the job yourself! Sometimes just redoing the steps carefully as you did is the ticket and I’m sure you can use the $500 you saved on something much more fun! Thanks very much for the kind words! I don’t have a video on your next project but I bet someone on TH-cam does! And I’d be happy to help with any questions if I can. 😊
Great video and I found you because I'm connecting a bidet. Well now I'm stuck cause the hot water valve under the sink was rusted and cracked now needs replacing and I don't know how to cut off hot water tank in order to replace the valve, please help me. Even if h I house cold water is off the tank is full right? How to cut off hot water from going out of tank???😢
@crystalsnow9752 Bidets are great, you will love it! Look at the hot water tank and there should be a cutoff valve on the line coming out of the tank. Use that to keep hot water from flowing while you replace the under sink valve. You are correct, even with the house cold water off, the tank is full and will cause you an issue. The outflow valve on the tank is there for this reason!
Hi there is a cut off for water going in the tank but nothing to stop it from going out of the tank. It's two knobs one for gas and one for cold water going into the tank. Question is if I cut off cold water to tank does and run hot water out of line in sink, will that relieve water in lines but keep rest in tank or drain tank altogether? And if drained do I cut off gas and pilot sense no water would be in the tank? My problem is there's no way to turn off water coming out of tank, no knob. And I didn't want to drain and turn off pilot if not necessary. If I can't avoid it I have no choice. Please respond, thank you
@@DougForce there's no knob going out only for water coming in tank, that's my problem. What do I do? There's a gas knob and a cold water going in tank knob and that's it, how crazy right? So how do I get the job done then Doug 🤔 I don't want to have to cut off gas/pilot I guess, turn off cold water going in tank and then drain 50 gallons of hot water out of tank till dry, then I should be able to remove the broken hot water valve? What do you think my genius, how I wish you were here🤪
Doug my friend, is there any way to show you a picture of what I have, maybe tomorrow when you have time or something. It's not letting me go to my gallery of pictures on here.
@crystalsnow9752 Sometimes there is not a hot water cutoff, like you have. You can turn off the cold water intake to the tank, and open the other hot water faucets in the house close to the problem one and drain as much of the line as possible. You will probably still get some drainage of the line when you remove the bad valve, so be prepared to catch that in a bucket. You ‘can’ drain the tank but the above method should allow you to avoid that hassle. TH-cam doesn’t allow pictures to be shared but my email is forcedonline@gmx.com
@@DougForce I have an old house and watching you change the shut off valves helps me a lot. I'm thinking that I can do this. I don't like to work with plumbing. It's so delicate. But plumbers cost to much. Thank you.
@Lone Ranger No one likes to work with plumbing! Lol But plumbers cost too much! Cut the water off to the house before you start and give it a shot. It’s not difficult. I always try first, and if I can’t do it I can call a professional later. Good luck with it!
Friggin dang skippy! Very good tutorial on this procedure, and thanks for howling and including the link for the Superior tool! I hate to think of someone replacing a shut off, and using the old nut and ferrule?!? 😯 Peace 👍😊
@George DaVall I’m glad you found it helpful! I’ve had ferrules I couldn’t get loose in the past (before this tool) and had to leave them. They worked ok but hated to leave the rusty wall plate. The tool sure helps in those cases. Thanks for the comment!
omg I had no idea this tool existed. I had to use an old existing ferrule on my toilet valve upstairs. it works fine but I'm about to do the valves under my sink. subscribed btw. thank you!!
@Here On Mars Nothing wrong with reusing the existing ferrule but if you want to remove the ferrule the tool is great! Thanks very much for the subscription! Appreciate it!
Good instruction, easy to follow. If she had to i believe my wife could even get this job done with your help and she is not a fix it person at all really. I will be switching all of mine over to 1/4 turn valves now. Home is a 1997 build and we have hard water. Thanks again👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
In a general repair situation I just reuse the nut and ferrule that’s on it. If I do have to remove the ferrule, I have a room that cuts the ferrule. However I need to get a puller because there’s times when you don’t have enough room to cut the ferrule because the nut can’t go back out of the way.
@Josh Cowart Agreed, no need to replace the ferrule and nut unless it was leaking or the nut is rusty and corroded. I replace them if they look bad because it increases the appearance value. The puller tool is much easier than trying to work in a tight spot to remove the ferrule by cutting. I had a few of those before I found the puller tool. :)
@@DougForce yeah the cutter is what our supply house carries so that’s why I have it. As for replacing the nut, it sort of depends on what I’m there for. If they’re remodeling or redoing everything then I’ll for sure replace it. If I can’t get to the ferrule, I cut the escutcheon off which makes it easier. If in there just to fix something that isn’t working then I’ll reuse the nut.
wish I knew about that tool. I've been chaning out a lot of these in my house and I'm just been re-using the one that is there and making the nut extra tight.
@Bigbacon that’s fine if the nut still looks nice, no need to remove ferrule and nut. I just like to replace them if they are rusty and corroded. New ones look nicer! 😀
@MTZ SkunkWorks It’s a great thing to have in your toolbox. The replacement before this one would not come off and I didn’t have the tool at that time. Very frustrating ! This is much better!
My daughter just moved into a town house which has CPVC for some interior plumbing I found out. The water inlet for the toilets is CPVC. I tried to install shark bites on them but they still have a minor slow eye dropper size leak over time. What do you do to stop the leak? I've never seen this kind of pipe on the interior before. Is a compression fitting the only way to go?
@Rick J I’d never seen CPVC inside a home either before this video. I talked to a professional plumber after this and he said he always glues on the valves. That should stop the leak you have.
@Jose The Don For those you need to use a propane torch. Amazon has them for about $18 plus a $10 propane bottle. You just heat the solder joint then use a pair of pliers to pull the old valve off. You can get a fire guard material to put against the wall to protect it from the heat if needed. Once you have the old valve off, you can replace it with another soldered valve if you like, or switch to a compression fitting or a snap on sharkbyte fitting. Look for videos showing how to desolder copper pipe.
@Donna Jackson, thanks very much! But I can’t take the creative credit - I hired an artist with talent to do that for me! I’m a newb at TH-cam despite using it for years.
I use the tool from English Tool Company as it's tiny compared to those giant pullers from a box store. Old plumber showed it to me and I bought one. Works great in tight spaces (no affiliation).
@Altarox LLC That’s probably close. General finger right then one to two more full turns is probably more than enough. Not so tight that you deform the pipe but not so loose that you could remove it by hand.
@John Lennon Thanks for watching! Unfortunately stuck shut off valves usually mean replacements are in order. You can try to tap them as in this video but in my experience it usually won’t free up. Be sure you have a way to cut the water off if your valve breaks or springs a leak! Good luck! th-cam.com/video/pjCTDXst1iU/w-d-xo.html
@@DougForce Yeah, what I want to do is replace them all with the 1/4 turn valves. I have to replace the shut off valve at the house too because that is stuck and want to replace it with the handle & ball type. So all you need is to turn it 1/4 of the way. But first I have to find where and how I can turn off the water from the street. Who would I call for that? The local county?
@John Lennon Usually there is a house shut off valve located near where the water line enters the house. Mine is in the bathroom closest to the street, under the sink. Check bathrooms, kitchen, laundry, etc. if you don’t have one you can cut water off at the water meter. They sell long handle water cutoff handles at Home Depot, etc which makes it easier to get the the street valve. It will be located on the house side of the meter and is a 1/4 turn. Just rotate it!
@john see It really depends on if the ferrule is new or reused. You need to turn the nut enough to compress the ferrule tightly-so finger tight then turn till it feels firmly in place.
@The Zec Compression fittings would have a nut on the pipe at the back of the valve while a glue on valve would just be a butt fitting (like a pvc elbow or joint)…
I’m sure it’s bad practice and I just didn’t know better but I’ve replaced several of those shut off valves because they wouldn’t completely stop leaking. I just took the main valve off and then threaded a new one on the nut from the old one so I didn’t have to deal with this problem. I’ve never had a leak yet but for now on I’ll do it the right way. Just a few of them had so little room coming out of the wall my way was easy.
@Rich Ferguson I believe your method is perfectly fine! The only reason I change the nut is if it’s rusty and corroded. There is no reason to pull the ferrel and replace the nut as far as I know. The puller makes it easy if you want to change it, but it’s optional. No leaks no problem!
@@DougForce that’s what I always thought and it saved a lot of trouble. The problem is almost always inside the valve part and replacing that takes care of the problem. Not a plumber but I’ve done my fair share of it. Thanks for the new tool tip and I’ll be picking one up. Bad thing about TH-cam is I discover lots of little things to buy which equates to needing a bigger toolbox then a bigger truck then a bigger house.
@@DougForce - I stand to be corrected Here in South africa - we are "unique" ( please correct if wrong ) we started off with imperial sytem and then went metric hence in older places - nuts could be imperial and new fitting/valve would be new(metric ) hence I never want to reuse the old nut ( clean or rusty ) in the ideal world we should use one sytem - but I live in real world I need to still learn how to be able to see the differnce from a 1/4 inch nut to a metric one - hence to play it safe - I replace
@Friendly Garfield Yes you do have an unusual situation where you would not want to mix metric and imperial parts! I agree with you on this - best to swap everything to be sure you don’t have leaks due to slight dimensional differences. Thanks for sharing a consideration I had not thought of as here we still mostly use Imperial for these things. Great comment!
Your video was excellent. Good video, good explanation, all the details I needed, and reviewing some of the comments and replies also helped. Replacing corroded hot and cold valves for bathroom vanity. Followed the video step by step including using the ferrule tool. No problems. Installed new valves and tightened both “not too tight” “not to loose”. Working by myself (BIG mistake) and went in basement to turn water back on. However I still had hot water off from tank. Cold water valve spraying/leaking. More tightening fixed it. Turned hot water on from tank again a spray/leak. Tried to tighten and valve popped off! Had to run for shut off in basement. Water everywhere in bathroom and poured into crawl space under floor. With help from second person got valve back on and no leaks. However I don’t trust either valve and reluctant to start on second bathroom. WHAT DID I DO WRONG? I used short crescent wrenches to not over tighten the nuts but I feel like going back to using longer wrenches and more muscle.
@Burr Clausen First off, give yourself credit for tackling a new situation you hadn’t done before and making it work! You’ve learned some lessons, you’ve gained some experience and survived! I’m sorry you had some frustrations but that’s pretty normal for plumbing jobs. Plumbing is frustrating and challenging for everyone even pros sometimes. Sounds like maybe you didn’t compress the ferrule enough the first time which is probably why the valve popped off. Use a bigger wrench if that helps, or put a bit more muscle on it. You have a frame of reference now to guide you. Good idea to work with a partner to help leak test and get the water off quickly if needed. Maybe put a bit of Teflon tape on the ferrule since you had some leakage before. It’s not required but it might help, based on your experience thus far. Keep building on your experience and be proud you didn’t have to call a plumber to come save you. No shame in calling in a pro, but you did it yourself. Nice. Finally if you just don’t trust the compression work, you can consider swapping to SharkByte fittings… they literally snap on to the copper pipe and have developed a good reputation in the last few years. They are guaranteed for like 20 years and might give you more confidence. And they are EASY! Hang in there Burr, every DIY person has had these experiences and these feelings. You did great, and can apply those lessons s to the next set, or try out the SharkBytes! Either way you did it yourself and saved big on a plumber. 😀
@@DougForce Obviously I am not experienced in You Tube also. I wanted to post a picture of the finished vanity showing the valves and hoses but I can’t figure how. Looks great (professional) and I was able to install the valves and hoses in the second bathroom with no issues at all. However the tub fixture replacement is turning out to be another challenge. First the Moen spout coming out and the replacement is threaded. Called Moen and their answer is that is the way they sell their kits. However there is something called a Universal tub spout adapter that is supposed to allow me to install the threaded spout. I have a bigger issue / question on the new replacement bathtub drain/stopper. The new one Danco 89487 Overflow Plate & Stopper Kit is identical to what I removed. I followed the instructions on the packaging and a You Tube video with my configuration. My question / concern is the stopper threads to the inside of a 90 degree pipe under the tub. There isn’t a flange on that piece of pipe. So when I tighten the stopper using a stopper wrench it doesn’t pull the stopper down onto the recess of the tub drain hole. Was that clear? The plumbers’ putty did ooze out put I don’t see how it stays in place and won’t leak. Any ideas?
@Burr Clausen Glad to hear the second set of valves went smoothly and you are proud of your professional looking installation! Congratulations! Tub spouts are always a bit of fit and fiddle operation but sounds like you have the right adapter. The drain issue you describe kinda sounds like a problem with that Danco 89487 model. If you look at the reviews for it many have complained about the stopper being wobbly or sticking up and not fitting well. Check into some of those reviews and see if they match what you are experiencing. It may just be an artifact of that particular model.
great video! Thanks for making it so easy to understand. Glad you put the links at the top so I can easily order these supplies. Is it possible to find a shut off valve/water line that will not rust??
@Karen Stemler I’m glad you found the video helpful! I was excited to find a tool that made the removal easier as I had struggled to replace valves before that. I have not seen anything that would prevent rust on the valves but at least if it’s easier to swap them out when needed it makes maintenance easier. Thanks for the note and I hope you’ll consider subscribing! 😀
@Super Specialty I wondered that same thing but didn’t trim as the pipe from the wall would have been too short if trimmed. The ferrule compressed fine and I have had no leaks or issues since installation.
Wonderful detail makes it easy to follow, I need to remove two that have a stuck handle/valve, and just hope that it was not soldered on to the pipe...!
@Richard Centeno Yes, it does. I expected to have copper in this video, and purchased the tool for that. I was surprised to see the pvc in the wall, but the tool works on either.
Ah Bach! Hey Doug, thanks. I checked out your webpage. Really digging that ocean pic with the 2 flags, pier and wind blowing. A download desktop maybe??
@0Doubled seven Thanks! I never really thought about it but it might make a good desktop pic at that…. When I get get a few minutes free I’ll see if I can dig it up and make it available…. 😀
My kitchen faucet has low water flow after I repaired a leak and had water turned off for days . NOPE took cartridge out disconnected water lines and blew air thru them then reconnected them and still low water flow .. They ddin't look clogged up were clean but still blew air thru them and still low prsessure . Might be where the problem ? Shut off valves ?
@Frank Montez Frank, I would disconnect the line from the faucet and turn the water on to see if you have full pressure coming to the kitchen faucet. If you have full pressure to the faucet and its not coming out that way, something in the faucet is impeding it inside the faucet. If you don’t have full pressure going into the faucet, since you know the line is clear from earlier, the cut off valve is very suspect at that point. Maybe while the water was off for days some rust or sediment dried in the cutoff valve, clogging it up. Don’t you love plumbing problems?! 😜
@Frank Montez - I would test the sink faucet first to be sure it’s working properly. Then I’d test the cut off valve to see if it’s the issue. More than likely the issue is the sink faucet or the cut off valve….one of them is not passing the water pressure along…..
@@DougForce update - finally found blockage somewhere in between the spout and supply lines. I blew compressed air from the spout to the lines. That did it. Even though I first blew compressed air from supply lines upwards that didn't work. I thought it was there ..in the spout or cartridge .. narrowed it down to that
@Frank Montez Glad to hear you found it! Interesting that you had to blow it from the opposite direction to free it up. Plumbing is always fun to troubleshoot!
@Roger Lane That’s a hotly debated matter of preference. Technically you don’t “need” Teflon tape on a compression fitting. It should seal without anything but compression. However, Murphy’s law, pipes slightly out of round, phase of the moon, etc can all cause leaks and Teflon tape absolutely helps out in those situations. Some people always use Teflon, or pipe dope, or both and swear by it. Some don’t. I usually start with just the compression fitting but if I have any seepage, I’ll definitely use tape and or pipe dope or both.
Great tutorial with very clear instructions. Thank you! Wondering if you would use a sharkbite fitting here? I replaced a water shut off valve behind a toilet in one of my bathrooms. It’s working fine but wondered what you think of using a sharkbite in this application? Thanks in advance.
@Kimberly J. Thanks for the kind words! SharkBite fitting are excellent and I wouldn’t hesitate to use them for valves like this. Professional plumbers have suggested in the past that they were more for emergency repairs, but SharkBite fittings carry a 25 year warranty. I might be more hesitant to use SharkBites behind a wall or someplace inaccessible but it’s pretty easy to snap a new one on under a sink or behind a toilet every 25 years! 😀
@@DougForce Thank you Doug! I value your opinion and this gives me confidence to use the sharkbite fittings on the easy to get to valves. I did call the company awhile ago and they assured me that they honor a 25 year warranty, and your feedback seals the deal! Thank you.
@@kimariokiji I’m flattered. Glad I could be helpful. Feels great to do it yourself and save the money and hassle of hiring it done, doesn’t it? I see you have lots of diy playlists so I know you are a do it yourselfer! 😀
I bought compression sleeve puller (the one pictured) to remove the compression ring off a CPVC pipe. It did not work. The ferule did not budge. Tool shaft that's meant to catch on the edge of the pipe, started going into the pipe itself. It may work on copper, but it certainly didn't work for me on CPVC.
@loo2001 Sorry to hear that. I was surprised to see that I had a cpvc pipe in the video, since all the other valves in the house were on copper pipe. The puller did work on the ferrule on the cpvc pipe for me but it was not stuck on too tightly. Maybe that had something to do with it. We’re you able to get it off another way?
@@DougForce Yes, I ended up cutting the pipe. The furrule's were on really tight, I tried removing it after I cut the pipe, still couldn't get it off. The fitting was installed in 1998. So it's been on quite awhile. Thanks for the video though, and I have te tool now if I ever need it in the future.
@loo2001 Definitely good to have multiple tools for the same job, as sometimes things just don’t work! I’ve seen several different styles of puller since I found this one. Might be a good review to compare all the pullers in the future. Thanks for the comments and thanks for watching!
I've cut the 1/2" copper pipe to place a new 1/4 turn new shut off valve. My cut of that copper pipe is not a perfect cut as I didn't have enough space to do a 360 turn which cutting that pipe. I've used a file to smooth out the pipe's edge, but it's not a perfect circle. Could that lead to leaks if I used a compression nut and ferrule? Thx
@KanZaman Yes, I think so. The pipe being out of round is a common cause of compression fitting leaks. That doesn’t mean it’s not worth a try as it might work fine - it all just depends. If you do have a leak after installing a new ferrule, take a look at switching to a “SharkBite” connection. They essentially snap on to the pipe and are much mess sensitive to out of round pipes.
@KanZaman Compression ferrules are old school. The SharkBite system is the new technology that is much easier to install. It’s been around long enough now that plumbers have started to trust it. It’s very easy and reliable. I’ve only used it once but it was super easy
Link to ferrule removal tool: amzn.to/3zDrkJe
Link to quarter turn shutoff valve - much better than the twist off valves - amzn.to/3qIl5QD
You saved me from calling in a plumber because I couldn't figure out why the nut wasn't coming off , just turning around the copper pipe, until you showed the correct tool to use for the job. I will be changing all the other shut off values now since that tool makes the job so easy. Great easy to follow video.
@SandraPatricia That’s great! I’m glad the video saved you a plumbers visit! I’m working on a video now showing ‘SharkByte’ fittings which are much easier to install that compression fittings. So once you get the old valve and fitting off, the SharkBytes just ‘snap’ on! Take a look at that option too. Thanks again for the SuperThanks - very kind of you!
use the sharkbite fittings
One of the most polite person on the internet. Thank you sir!
@No One Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching!
Excellent video on how to replace a cut off supply valve! Not only informative and instructional, but very pleasing to hear and watch! Thank you very much, sir!
@garylcarrier Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad you found the video useful!
Enjoyed the video. I'm a 69 yr old DIY guy who has repaired many home plumbing projects. Came upon a similar issue needing to remove the compression ring but from a PEX line. I wasn't aware such a tool existed. I'm going to order this tool for this similar issue I face. Hope this works with PEX. Thanks for the video.
@grgomez247 I’ve never tried the tool with PEX but it seems like it should work just the same. It’s still pulling the compression nut forward. With the insert in place in the tube it should be rigid enough to hold up. I’d be interested to hear how it works for you. Please come back and let us know how it worked. Thanks for the comment!
Liked & Subscribed just for being the only video that didn’t skip over the nut replacement and recommended the “compression sleeve puller”
@Grant Garrard Thanks very much, I really appreciate that! Every like and every subscriber really helps out on a new channel! I’m glad you found the video useful!
Live saver! Most videos say to cut off the ferrule but sometimes there isn't enough to cut off and still install a new valve without sweating in an extension.
@Gawking Watches Yes indeed! I’ve had to replace several that were just barely long enough as is, no room to cut it shorter!
Thanks!
@SandraPatricia I'm glad the video was helpful to you and I really appreciate the 'Super Thanks' - it's my first one ever! You're very kind!
Thank you Sir, you helped me today install two new water shutoff valves & a new faucet for my bathroom sink. 😏💪🏾👍🏾
If you open up a faucet lower in the house than the one you plan to work on, you can decrease the amount of water you need to drain from the one you are going to work on.
@Stephen Knowles I never thought of that, but makes sense. Does that only apply to two story houses or can you open a nearby faucet on the same floor?
@@DougForce I don't know how much opening one on the same floor would help, other than a possible speed up in draining the pipes, which is really all that a lower level opening does.
@@DougForce yeah it does it doesn’t matter if it’s 2 story like a tub or an outside faucet would do the trick draining all that water down
@Daniel Alcala Good to know! I’ll try that next time. Thanks for the comment!
@@DougForce u saved me today :) I was about to cry when I couldn’t get my nasty valve off. Trying to replace my faucet. Now I know why plumbers cost so much :)
Thanks dude, I really appreciate this tutorial. Ya jus dunn took the mystery out of a whole lot, quick!
@John Burns I’m glad it was useful to you! Mystery solving is always fun! Especially when it saves you bank!
@@DougForce
Oh so tru mate. Looks like I owe ya
@John Burns Nah, you don’t owe me anything - I appreciate you checking out the video!
As a woman, I am always impressed at how clever men are. I can learn to do what they do sometimes but I'm not someone to think it up on my own. Good work, Mr. Force. I can't wait to fix the ugly mess behind my own toilet!
@Trish Fitzpatrick Thanks for the kind words! I’m confident you can do it - take a look at SharkBite fittings too. I haven’t done a video on those yet but they literally snap on to the pipe and carry a 25 year warranty!
As a woman, you are just as clever as men, and can do anything you want to. I am a 40yo man, who has just began to attempt some DIY. Already I’ve change 2 sets of taps, mounted a TV, changed socket and light switches etc.
It’s amazing what you can accomplish if you set about the task.
@Wonder of Watches Well said!
Very good demonstration.
I got inspired to change all the valves, good or ugly as new make house looks better and me feel much better specially that recently tried to install a bidet and noticed how wrong things can go.
@Sam Sen I’m glad it was helpful and I agree with you, new ones look much nicer. I also agree about how plumbing can go wrong, but those are learning experiences!
Thanks so much. Having to replace a 73 year-old toilet. It's original. Not sure about the valve, but it looked old when we moved in 21 years ago. Just stopped working today. It was time. The toilet and the valve have done more than their fair share of work. Thanks for the hint about the ferrel puller as well!
@Becky Mcdonald Thanks for the comment! Wow, 73 year old toilet! I bet that will be an adventure! You might be able to sell that on eBay! Let me know how it turns out, I bet you will have a story on this one!
@@DougForce OMGosh, you have no idea. Now I am sure I also have 9"x9" asphalt and asbestos tiles. Most of them are in good condition, and I can just encapsulate them, but not so under the toilet, or at least I don't think so. Hoping most of the concrete is still intact. Also hoping I won't have to call an asbestos removal company, and can just encapsulate those as well. The joys of an old house. Lol
@Becky McDonald Sounds like the fun is continuing! I had to replace some concrete under a toilet last year. It actually went better than I expected but I didn’t have to deal with any asbestos!
been wanting to do this for years but was afraid to tackle it on my own. Not now, very good video showing how easy it can be if you have the right tools. Plus doing it yourself you can afford those.
@keith walker Im very glad you found the video helpful! I completely agree, I can buy whatever tools I need MUCH cheaper than paying a professional and then I have the tools for the future. And in most cases, if I tackle something I can’t handle (hasn’t happened yet) I can always call in a professional and it won’t cost any more than if I hadn’t tried so nothing to lose by giving it a try. I haven’t made a video yet but if you want to take a look at SharkByte fittings, they are even easier - they literally just snap on and work very well. Take a look at those. 😀
He did overtight the ferrule, ater he came back to tight more, my opinion!
@@isidroenriquez4845 It may have looked that way but I didn't deform the pipe and I haven't had any issues with that fitting so far. Thanks for checking out the viideo!
Doug, I hope I can tackle this, but my name is BEAR, and I love your use of the term. Pure genius
@Miles Away - lol you are literally a “bear to work with!” - that’s awesome! Unusual names are the best! I’m sure you can complete this task successfully! I hope you will consider subscribing and let me know how your changeout goes!
@@DougForce thanks man-like Indiana Jones, I got the nickname of the dog.
I screwed up, repeatedly, and it took 3 trips to Lowe’s….to bring it to a leak that is at least catchable in a bucket. It blew one time and was like a pressure washer-when testing. Flooded through to my first floor. Niiice.
Sorry, good reminder!
@@DougForce hey Doug! I got it stopped! With a shark bite end cap. The sink isn’t useable, and it has spurred my renovation plans.
I have bare (bear) 3/8” copper pipes coming out of the wall for the hot and cold. To use a shark bite-do I have to first put a 3/8 to 1/2” adapter on the copper line? Thanks boss!
@Miles Away Man I hate that you have had so many challenges but sometimes that’s how plumbing goes. Still you are learning how to resolve those problems and experience is the best teacher! I’ve seen SharkBite fitting that go from 3/8 to 1/2 and others too - you should be able to match to whatever sizes you need, all with SharkBite parts….
@@DougForce thanks boss!!
I got a 3/8 cap-Amazon seemed to only have 3/8 to 1/4 adapters, but not 3/8 directly to twisty thing to sink. I am reticent to trust the guys at Lowe’s, again. I’d rather watch your videos!
Thank you so much for having this video in place. I am getting the right tools to do a decent job as yours. Great step-by-step demonstration! Well done!!
Thanks for the kind words. Man Tor! I’m glad you found it useful. I love having the right tool - makes things go smoothly.
Don't know if it was the camera angle or not but it looks like the CPVC was not cut square and super surprised you didn't have a leak
@deancitroni4447 I don’t remember the cut being too badly off square so it might have been the camera angle. I do remember it was unhandy to get the camera in the right place! Lol. It hasn’t leaked a drop in several years now. I’m thinking of replacing it with a SharkByte just to have a followup video.
Wow sir I can’t believe I just watched this in full lol 😂 u r very talented I never knew how this was done you are the life saver youtube has so many talented people like yourself sharing your skills and helping people out thank you
I’m glad you watched it and found it helpful! Thanks!
Thank you for the time for showing as an easy simple way to replace these valves. Thank you for the great tips.
Glad you found it helpful, @Joe Trevino
Thank you for the video! Though I have no confidence to replace this shut off valve, I will understand what the plumber is doing if I hir a good one!
@annieyue9184 Understanding what the plumber is doing and charging you for is a great way to avoid ripoffs. I bet you could do it if you tried!
had issue where screw on valve was threaded onto a male thread that was soldered onto pipe- tried to replace but kept leaking so i cut off the soldered part and preapred the copper pipe and used sharkbite valve worked awesome
Nice video for soft water jobs, but what can you do when hard water deposits lock the ferrule nut to the valve and you can't get the valve or ferrule nut to turn when the assembly is located very close to the cabinet wall. After 20 minutes of effort, I gave up and just connected the new faucet to the old valve and left the problem to the future. PS - the reason I wanted to replace the valve was that it was "frozen" in the open position and could not be budged to turn off the water flow (oddly, the corresponding hot water valve worked perfectly and they were both installed at the same time).
@UTArch1 I’ve encountered that kind of issue before as well and the solution is always the same. Bigger job. You have to open the wall to gain access to the pipe, cut off the frozen valve and extend the pipe. I too have left those issues to the future but a leak in that area means you have to cut water to the house - which gets painful quickly! lol I broke a frozen valve trying to release it and had to open the wall in the adjoining room to get in and replace the whole house cutoff - which meant cutting water at the street. I called in a pro for that one! lol
Very good instructional video. The only change I would suggest is to replace the metal ferrule to a plastic one since your pipe (looks like pex). The metal ferrule will eventually cut into the plastic pipe.
@melvinmcgregor2673 Thanks for the kind words. It does look like Pex but it’s actually hard pvc - very weird. I’m planning to swap it out with a SharkByte valve one of these days, which should be an easy change. We will see!
Great video. I always used a mini hacksaw to remove the ferrules but will be buying me one of those tools!
@Rich Estep Me too, either cutting it off with a hacksaw or wrestling if off with pliers, trying not to get the pipe out of round. This tool is much, much easier! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I was looking for a video just like yours . Going to get the ferrel remover. Thanks
@Marion Ake Glad you found it helpful! Thanks!
Thanks for the tip on the ferrule ring puller! I bought a Husky Ferrule removal tool ($12) since that’s all they had in stock at Home Depot. It worked as it should but because of the tight space under my bathroom sink cabinet, it still took me 4 hours to complete the job. Cut my thumb in the process but all is well now. The biggest pain about this job is trying to lay underneath with the corner of the cabinet box cutting into your back. Very uncomfortable and not much room for your arms to extend. A towel worked ok to pad the edge, otherwise it would have been unbearable. Both of the old valve ferrule rings were seized onto the copper. I didn’t want to cut/shorten the pipe, since it only sticks out so far, so the puller was key. I used a new Compression Valve for the replacement, not one of those press on Shark style valves. I’ve been told the sharks won’t pull off but I feel uncomfortable knowing there is no nut to tighten down on the pipe. Anyway just wanted to post my experience changing my valves and faucet for the first time.
@Tom P - Under cabinet jobs are the WORST! I never have the right tool at hand and as you noted, very uncomfortable! I use an old pillow to cushion the cabinet edge. I’ve become more and more impressed with SharkBite fittings. Have used several and had no issues. They carry a 25 year warranty too. Congratulations on a successful job! You saved a ton of cash by not hiring a plumber! Thanks for the kind words and for the comment!
I recently used a Shark Bite fitting. They work fine. The only recommendation is to install them out in the open so you can monitor them for any possible leaks.
@@AStanton1966 Great comment - appreciate you sharing your experience!
@@DougForce I have a lot of trouble so I'm just watching videos right now but I wanted to share something that I saw. I saw someone take an ironing board and lay that across the cabinet.
it's padded of course and then the worker laid down on the ironing board and so they couldn't feel the edge of the cabinet. Hope you can use that tip.
@Deadmanswife That’s a great idea! I’m not sure a full sized ironing board would fit in some smaller bathrooms, but a smaller board definitely would! I’m going to look at that. Thanks for sharing the tip!
I've always thought of ferrules as ceramic rings that go around weld studs. You learn something every day
@Elijah Franklin I wasn’t aware ferrules were also used in welding! I learned something new today too! Thanks for the note!
They contain the weld to keep it from spattering and boiling.
Interesting, are they removed after active welding or stay in place?
@@DougForce removed. They're made of a fairly brittle ceramic, so after the weld you just tap them with us with a welding hammer or something they come right off.
Man thank you for sharing your knowledge this is going to help me on tomorrows project
@John Sanabria My pleasure, I’m glad you found it helpful! Thanks for the note!
I am going to get one of those. I have the puller that looks like a great puller with two arms that have 90'0 bends in them that fit behind the nut it works but your tool you show involves a lot less fumbling around the one I have also can be used to pull those stubborn plastic faucet handles. Many times if the nut looks pretty new I want to change to a quarter turn valve but the hole in the new valve is not as deep as the old one so I just pull the ferrule closer to the end of the tubing with your tool I will pull them all the way off as yours is much easier to use. Thank you for the video
@Bill Hale Glad you found the video useful - I have several different styles of pullers as you do - some work well in some situations, some work better in others. This style really does make it easy to pull a struck ferrule off. You can't have tool many tools, I always say! Thanks for watching!
The image changed quite a bit from 1:48 to 1:49. I don't know what happen. But the video did help me change mine. Good job!
@LeeRoy Jenkins Yes, I’m still learning how to do this TH-cam stuff but I’m glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for the comment!
This was an awesome step by step how to. I have never used the ferrule removal tool before, nice tip. Thanks for sharing!
@Steve Turtle It’s a lifesaver! The last one I changed without the tool fought me every step of the way, and I had to stand on my head to reach it. That’s when I went looking for a better way and found this tool. It’s great!
Its good to remove the ferel but not always necessary. A lot of the time you can reuse the current nut and ferel
@Isaac Ellis I agree, no reason to remove the nut or ferrule if they are in good shape. I only replace them if it’s leaking or the nut is rusty and corroded.
So shiny looks good!
You have a video for solder connection? How you can tell what connection?
@Rick Kane I don’t have a video on soldering connections but I do intend to make one. There are several good videos on TH-cam - I’ll post one below. Soldered connections do not have threads or nuts. th-cam.com/video/b3c85sj2i7s/w-d-xo.html
Thank you sharing your TH-cam!❤
@Tseten Dorjee Thanks for checking out the video! I appreciate it!
I have a different set at the toilet. It's was already done. Wish I had one of these.
@Robert Sparks What kind do you have?
@@DougForce it was done by past owners. It a regular faucet turn off connected to a square block. It's frozen in open position. It's connected to the toilet. It's not hurting but would like to br able to switch it out.
if this was a copper pipe can i reuse the same surface area where the old ferrule and nut was?
Or do i need to cut off the old area for the new ferrule to be compressed
@Akane Soratobu I have never had an issue with putting a new ferrule on a copper pipe in the same place the old ferrule was located. If the pipe is generally in good shape it shouldn’t be an issue.
@@DougForce got it thank you
Just an absolutely perfect video! Thank you so much, sincerely. You just saved me a bucket full of money! I appreciate you! Subscribed. :)
@lindseyasher1982 I’m glad to hear the video was useful to you! Always nice to know! Thanks for subscribing!!
That's pretty cool compression tool removal. I had to use a hack saw to get the one I had off lol
@Jennifer K I’ve had to do the same! The last one I had fought me so hard I started looking for a better way abs found this. It’s slick!
I loved this video. Watched many other shut off valve videos and yours is by far the best. Liked and Subscribed
@Champster I’m really glad to hear it was useful to you! Thanks for the kind words and for the like and subscribe! I really appreciate it! Take care!
Thank you so much for the tip!! I have used before a Dremel tool but it’s a pain.
@tubefr71 - I have done the same in the past, but this worked great and was much less effort to get it off!
You are a genius Sir 😊
@Jay LOL No but I’m very happy you found the video useful! Thanks for the kind words!
Thank you for this video, it helped a lot, but now I have another problem….it’s leaking where the compression nut is in the back. Tried tightening it a little more, still leaks, then loosening it, leaks then too. What do I do?
@Victoria Rose Plumbing is always an adventure Victoria! You ‘should’ not need any Teflon tape with a compression fitting but it’s the easiest way to resolve an issue like this. Get some Teflon tape from the hardware store (it’s inexpensive) and wrap the ferrule tightly with a single layer or a tiny bit more. Then retighten the compression nut and see how that goes…..
Right after I wrote my first question, I decided to take the valve off and do the whole thing all over again. This time I squinted my eyes and screwed everything back in with extreme concentration while hearing your voice in my head….and low and behold, that was trick and no more leak! 😂 You saved us $500 (that’s what we were quoted to install new toilet and valve), thank you! Feeling proud of myself for not giving up. Now I’m gonna tackle fixing a slow water flow on the hot side of a bathroom sink faucet. Do you have a video for that? I really like your style of instruction.
@Victoria Rose Congratulations on sticking with it and completing the job yourself! Sometimes just redoing the steps carefully as you did is the ticket and I’m sure you can use the $500 you saved on something much more fun! Thanks very much for the kind words! I don’t have a video on your next project but I bet someone on TH-cam does! And I’d be happy to help with any questions if I can. 😊
Great video and I found you because I'm connecting a bidet. Well now I'm stuck cause the hot water valve under the sink was rusted and cracked now needs replacing and I don't know how to cut off hot water tank in order to replace the valve, please help me. Even if h I house cold water is off the tank is full right? How to cut off hot water from going out of tank???😢
@crystalsnow9752 Bidets are great, you will love it! Look at the hot water tank and there should be a cutoff valve on the line coming out of the tank. Use that to keep hot water from flowing while you replace the under sink valve. You are correct, even with the house cold water off, the tank is full and will cause you an issue. The outflow valve on the tank is there for this reason!
Hi there is a cut off for water going in the tank but nothing to stop it from going out of the tank. It's two knobs one for gas and one for cold water going into the tank. Question is if I cut off cold water to tank does and run hot water out of line in sink, will that relieve water in lines but keep rest in tank or drain tank altogether? And if drained do I cut off gas and pilot sense no water would be in the tank? My problem is there's no way to turn off water coming out of tank, no knob. And I didn't want to drain and turn off pilot if not necessary. If I can't avoid it I have no choice. Please respond, thank you
@@DougForce there's no knob going out only for water coming in tank, that's my problem. What do I do? There's a gas knob and a cold water going in tank knob and that's it, how crazy right? So how do I get the job done then Doug 🤔 I don't want to have to cut off gas/pilot I guess, turn off cold water going in tank and then drain 50 gallons of hot water out of tank till dry, then I should be able to remove the broken hot water valve? What do you think my genius, how I wish you were here🤪
Doug my friend, is there any way to show you a picture of what I have, maybe tomorrow when you have time or something. It's not letting me go to my gallery of pictures on here.
@crystalsnow9752 Sometimes there is not a hot water cutoff, like you have. You can turn off the cold water intake to the tank, and open the other hot water faucets in the house close to the problem one and drain as much of the line as possible. You will probably still get some drainage of the line when you remove the bad valve, so be prepared to catch that in a bucket. You ‘can’ drain the tank but the above method should allow you to avoid that hassle. TH-cam doesn’t allow pictures to be shared but my email is forcedonline@gmx.com
Excellent video. Easy to understand.
@Lone Ranger Thanks for the kind words! I had a long day today so it was nice to end it with a kind comment! Thanks for watching!
@@DougForce I have an old house and watching you change the shut off valves helps me a lot. I'm thinking that I can do this. I don't like to work with plumbing. It's so delicate. But plumbers cost to much. Thank you.
@Lone Ranger No one likes to work with plumbing! Lol But plumbers cost too much! Cut the water off to the house before you start and give it a shot. It’s not difficult. I always try first, and if I can’t do it I can call a professional later. Good luck with it!
Friggin dang skippy! Very good tutorial on this procedure, and thanks for howling and including the link for the Superior tool! I hate to think of someone replacing a shut off, and using the old nut and ferrule?!? 😯 Peace 👍😊
@George DaVall I’m glad you found it helpful! I’ve had ferrules I couldn’t get loose in the past (before this tool) and had to leave them. They worked ok but hated to leave the rusty wall plate. The tool sure helps in those cases. Thanks for the comment!
omg I had no idea this tool existed. I had to use an old existing ferrule on my toilet valve upstairs. it works fine but I'm about to do the valves under my sink. subscribed btw. thank you!!
@Here On Mars Nothing wrong with reusing the existing ferrule but if you want to remove the ferrule the tool is great! Thanks very much for the subscription! Appreciate it!
Good instruction, easy to follow. If she had to i believe my wife could even get this job done with your help and she is not a fix it person at all really. I will be switching all of mine over to 1/4 turn valves now. Home is a 1997 build and we have hard water. Thanks again👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
@Red Riders I’m glad you found it helpful! Thanks for the kind words!
In a general repair situation I just reuse the nut and ferrule that’s on it. If I do have to remove the ferrule, I have a room that cuts the ferrule. However I need to get a puller because there’s times when you don’t have enough room to cut the ferrule because the nut can’t go back out of the way.
@Josh Cowart Agreed, no need to replace the ferrule and nut unless it was leaking or the nut is rusty and corroded. I replace them if they look bad because it increases the appearance value. The puller tool is much easier than trying to work in a tight spot to remove the ferrule by cutting. I had a few of those before I found the puller tool. :)
@@DougForce yeah the cutter is what our supply house carries so that’s why I have it. As for replacing the nut, it sort of depends on what I’m there for. If they’re remodeling or redoing everything then I’ll for sure replace it. If I can’t get to the ferrule, I cut the escutcheon off which makes it easier. If in there just to fix something that isn’t working then I’ll reuse the nut.
@Josh Cowart Good information. I need to pick up a cutter tool just to have another option. Cant have too many tools! 😀
@@DougForce very true
Absolutely earned a sub with this video. You made this process so clear and understandable. Thank you so much.
@Green Onion Thanks for the kind words! I’m very pleased the video was helpful to you!
Great video, very clear demostration
@j lou Defonty I’m glad you found it helpful! I hope you will consider subscribing!
wish I knew about that tool. I've been chaning out a lot of these in my house and I'm just been re-using the one that is there and making the nut extra tight.
@Bigbacon that’s fine if the nut still looks nice, no need to remove ferrule and nut. I just like to replace them if they are rusty and corroded. New ones look nicer! 😀
Thanks man, I didn’t know theres a tool for that!! All my stops have to be replaced!
@MTZ SkunkWorks It’s a great thing to have in your toolbox. The replacement before this one would not come off and I didn’t have the tool at that time. Very frustrating ! This is much better!
My daughter just moved into a town house which has CPVC for some interior plumbing I found out. The water inlet for the toilets is CPVC. I tried to install shark bites on them but they still have a minor slow eye dropper size leak over time. What do you do to stop the leak? I've never seen this kind of pipe on the interior before. Is a compression fitting the only way to go?
@Rick J I’d never seen CPVC inside a home either before this video. I talked to a professional plumber after this and he said he always glues on the valves. That should stop the leak you have.
Very useful, very informative. Thank you!!!!!!
@justinkase454 I’m glad the video was useful to you! Thanks for the note!
Any way to get it off if they welded the valve under a sink? I have to replace one under my seink but the metal is melted
@Jose The Don For those you need to use a propane torch. Amazon has them for about $18 plus a $10 propane bottle. You just heat the solder joint then use a pair of pliers to pull the old valve off. You can get a fire guard material to put against the wall to protect it from the heat if needed. Once you have the old valve off, you can replace it with another soldered valve if you like, or switch to a compression fitting or a snap on sharkbyte fitting. Look for videos showing how to desolder copper pipe.
Love the pencil work in the beginning of the video. You did great on that.
@Donna Jackson, thanks very much! But I can’t take the creative credit - I hired an artist with talent to do that for me! I’m a newb at TH-cam despite using it for years.
Actually I did change the music and shorten the original clip, so I had a tiny bit to do with it! 😀
This was a really good video!
@TheNewenglandboys Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad you found it helpful!
The CP VC is not square at the end?
@Mehdi Sabet It’s not, it’s round and the same diameter as a more typical copper pipe.
I use the tool from English Tool Company as it's tiny compared to those giant pullers from a box store. Old plumber showed it to me and I bought one. Works great in tight spaces (no affiliation).
@madcow usa I’m not familiar with that tool but tiny is good especially in tight spaces! I’ll check it out. Thanks!
Excellent video! I learned a few things!
Thanks @Provided JOKER I’m glad it was helpful!
Best video on this matter....
@armandohernan4610 Thanks for the kind words!
Looks like you are putting about 25 ft lbs of torque on the Compression nut as you tighten it. Sound about right?
@Altarox LLC That’s probably close. General finger right then one to two more full turns is probably more than enough. Not so tight that you deform the pipe but not so loose that you could remove it by hand.
great video thanks for sharing - just what I needed
@OisinHoy Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment.
Good video. I have shut off valves under all my sinks that are stuck. How do I get them unstuck?
@John Lennon Thanks for watching! Unfortunately stuck shut off valves usually mean replacements are in order. You can try to tap them as in this video but in my experience it usually won’t free up. Be sure you have a way to cut the water off if your valve breaks or springs a leak! Good luck!
th-cam.com/video/pjCTDXst1iU/w-d-xo.html
Or th-cam.com/video/L-cTL7JJr8E/w-d-xo.html
@@DougForce Yeah, what I want to do is replace them all with the 1/4 turn valves. I have to replace the shut off valve at the house too because that is stuck and want to replace it with the handle & ball type. So all you need is to turn it 1/4 of the way. But first I have to find where and how I can turn off the water from the street. Who would I call for that? The local county?
@John Lennon Usually there is a house shut off valve located near where the water line enters the house. Mine is in the bathroom closest to the street, under the sink. Check bathrooms, kitchen, laundry, etc. if you don’t have one you can cut water off at the water meter. They sell long handle water cutoff handles at Home Depot, etc which makes it easier to get the the street valve. It will be located on the house side of the meter and is a 1/4 turn. Just rotate it!
Oh, the house valve is stuck too - lol - just ignore that part! I had exactly the same problem with a rental house.
► Thanks for the video and all the useful links!
@Angel DeTierra Thanks for the kind words!
One full turn after the nut contacts the ferrule?
@john see It really depends on if the ferrule is new or reused. You need to turn the nut enough to compress the ferrule tightly-so finger tight then turn till it feels firmly in place.
You are a good teacher. The!
@Chris G - Thanks for watching!
Great Video!! You took it nice and slow, I was able to follow along with everything! Thanks!
Thanks very much @Sal Montes, appreciate the kind words! Glad to hear it was helpful!
Awesome. Great video I never knew about The puller
@YAHUSHA KING Thanks for watching! I was surprised to find out how many different pullers are out there!
This share just gives you good vibes and learn instantly. Keep the share coming and I hope we can inspire one another. Keep it up. New friend.
Thanks for the kind words! New subscriber!
@@DougForce Thank you too
How do you know if the old valve was glued on or with a compression ferrul?
@The Zec Compression fittings would have a nut on the pipe at the back of the valve while a glue on valve would just be a butt fitting (like a pvc elbow or joint)…
I’m sure it’s bad practice and I just didn’t know better but I’ve replaced several of those shut off valves because they wouldn’t completely stop leaking. I just took the main valve off and then threaded a new one on the nut from the old one so I didn’t have to deal with this problem. I’ve never had a leak yet but for now on I’ll do it the right way. Just a few of them had so little room coming out of the wall my way was easy.
@Rich Ferguson I believe your method is perfectly fine! The only reason I change the nut is if it’s rusty and corroded. There is no reason to pull the ferrel and replace the nut as far as I know. The puller makes it easy if you want to change it, but it’s optional. No leaks no problem!
@@DougForce that’s what I always thought and it saved a lot of trouble. The problem is almost always inside the valve part and replacing that takes care of the problem. Not a plumber but I’ve done my fair share of it. Thanks for the new tool tip and I’ll be picking one up. Bad thing about TH-cam is I discover lots of little things to buy which equates to needing a bigger toolbox then a bigger truck then a bigger house.
@Rich Ferguson I know EXACTLY what you mean! I have two big toolboxes already and need another! Lol!
@@DougForce - I stand to be corrected
Here in South africa - we are "unique" ( please correct if wrong )
we started off with imperial sytem and then went metric
hence in older places - nuts could be imperial and new fitting/valve would be new(metric ) hence I never want to reuse the old nut ( clean or rusty )
in the ideal world we should use one sytem - but I live in real world
I need to still learn how to be able to see the differnce from a 1/4 inch nut to a metric one - hence to play it safe - I replace
@Friendly Garfield Yes you do have an unusual situation where you would not want to mix metric and imperial parts! I agree with you on this - best to swap everything to be sure you don’t have leaks due to slight dimensional differences. Thanks for sharing a consideration I had not thought of as here we still mostly use Imperial for these things. Great comment!
Thank you! Helped me alot!
@Tammie MacMullen I’m glad it was helpful! I hope you’ll consider subscribing!
thanks for the help
@Chris Gallagher Glad it was helpful to you!
Great video. Concise and clear. Thank you
@Geralt of Reviews Thanks very much for the kind words! I’m still learning how to do TH-cam so I really appreciate the comments! Happy 4th!
Your video was excellent. Good video, good explanation, all the details I needed, and reviewing some of the comments and replies also helped. Replacing corroded hot and cold valves for bathroom vanity. Followed the video step by step including using the ferrule tool. No problems. Installed new valves and tightened both “not too tight” “not to loose”. Working by myself (BIG mistake) and went in basement to turn water back on. However I still had hot water off from tank. Cold water valve spraying/leaking. More tightening fixed it. Turned hot water on from tank again a spray/leak. Tried to tighten and valve popped off! Had to run for shut off in basement. Water everywhere in bathroom and poured into crawl space under floor. With help from second person got valve back on and no leaks. However I don’t trust either valve and reluctant to start on second bathroom. WHAT DID I DO WRONG? I used short crescent wrenches to not over tighten the nuts but I feel like going back to using longer wrenches and more muscle.
@Burr Clausen First off, give yourself credit for tackling a new situation you hadn’t done before and making it work! You’ve learned some lessons, you’ve gained some experience and survived! I’m sorry you had some frustrations but that’s pretty normal for plumbing jobs. Plumbing is frustrating and challenging for everyone even pros sometimes. Sounds like maybe you didn’t compress the ferrule enough the first time which is probably why the valve popped off. Use a bigger wrench if that helps, or put a bit more muscle on it. You have a frame of reference now to guide you. Good idea to work with a partner to help leak test and get the water off quickly if needed. Maybe put a bit of Teflon tape on the ferrule since you had some leakage before. It’s not required but it might help, based on your experience thus far. Keep building on your experience and be proud you didn’t have to call a plumber to come save you. No shame in calling in a pro, but you did it yourself. Nice. Finally if you just don’t trust the compression work, you can consider swapping to SharkByte fittings… they literally snap on to the copper pipe and have developed a good reputation in the last few years. They are guaranteed for like 20 years and might give you more confidence. And they are EASY! Hang in there Burr, every DIY person has had these experiences and these feelings. You did great, and can apply those lessons s to the next set, or try out the SharkBytes! Either way you did it yourself and saved big on a plumber. 😀
@@DougForce Thank you for the reply and encouragement.
@@burrclausen Let me know how it goes and what you go back with. Sounds like you did fine, just need things a bit tighter.
@@DougForce Obviously I am not experienced in You Tube also. I wanted to post a picture of the finished vanity showing the valves and hoses but I can’t figure how. Looks great (professional) and I was able to install the valves and hoses in the second bathroom with no issues at all. However the tub fixture replacement is turning out to be another challenge. First the Moen spout coming out and the replacement is threaded. Called Moen and their answer is that is the way they sell their kits. However there is something called a Universal tub spout adapter that is supposed to allow me to install the threaded spout.
I have a bigger issue / question on the new replacement bathtub drain/stopper. The new one Danco 89487 Overflow Plate & Stopper Kit is identical to what I removed. I followed the instructions on the packaging and a You Tube video with my configuration. My question / concern is the stopper threads to the inside of a 90 degree pipe under the tub. There isn’t a flange on that piece of pipe. So when I tighten the stopper using a stopper wrench it doesn’t pull the stopper down onto the recess of the tub drain hole. Was that clear? The plumbers’ putty did ooze out put I don’t see how it stays in place and won’t leak. Any ideas?
@Burr Clausen Glad to hear the second set of valves went smoothly and you are proud of your professional looking installation! Congratulations!
Tub spouts are always a bit of fit and fiddle operation but sounds like you have the right adapter.
The drain issue you describe kinda sounds like a problem with that Danco 89487 model. If you look at the reviews for it many have complained about the stopper being wobbly or sticking up and not fitting well. Check into some of those reviews and see if they match what you are experiencing. It may just be an artifact of that particular model.
Extremely useful, thanks a lot !
@alaglo1 Thanks for the kind words! Glad it was helpful!
This video easily saved me a lot of time and effort. Thanks for posting it!
Glad it was helpful, @Wes Suess!
great video! Thanks for making it so easy to understand. Glad you put the links at the top so I can easily order these supplies. Is it possible to find a shut off valve/water line that will not rust??
@Karen Stemler I’m glad you found the video helpful! I was excited to find a tool that made the removal easier as I had struggled to replace valves before that. I have not seen anything that would prevent rust on the valves but at least if it’s easier to swap them out when needed it makes maintenance easier. Thanks for the note and I hope you’ll consider subscribing! 😀
Shouldn’t the tubing be trimmed for a good circumference seal?
@Super Specialty I wondered that same thing but didn’t trim as the pipe from the wall would have been too short if trimmed. The ferrule compressed fine and I have had no leaks or issues since installation.
@@DougForce 👍 I figured so!
What wonderful video Thnkyou so much
@Marianne Rollins Why thank you! I appreciate the kind words and I’m glad you found it helpful.
Very useful great video. Thank you.
@Sue Teacc Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad it was helpful!
Beautiful stuff bro thanks
@Rocharlens Joseph I’m glad it was helpful!
Wonderful detail makes it easy to follow, I need to remove two that have a stuck handle/valve, and just hope that it was not soldered on to the pipe...!
@Christian Gutierrez Chances are it will be compression fittings if it’s been there awhile, but you just never know with plumbing! Good luck!
Awesome video thank you
@Jirehshalom0712 I'm glad you found it useful! Thanks for the note!
Does that tool work on copper as well
@Richard Centeno Yes, it does. I expected to have copper in this video, and purchased the tool for that. I was surprised to see the pvc in the wall, but the tool works on either.
What’s the pipe that comes out of the wall called
@Jonathan Martinez I usually call it the supply line, or water line stub. It may have an official name that I’m not aware of…..
Ah Bach!
Hey Doug, thanks. I checked out your webpage. Really digging that ocean pic with the 2 flags, pier and wind blowing. A download desktop maybe??
@0Doubled seven Thanks! I never really thought about it but it might make a good desktop pic at that…. When I get get a few minutes free I’ll see if I can dig it up and make it available…. 😀
Great video.
@Larry Bell Thanks very much! Glad you found it useful!
great instruction .thank you
@Nick Henton Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful!
My kitchen faucet has low water flow after I repaired a leak and had water turned off for days . NOPE took cartridge out disconnected water lines and blew air thru them then reconnected them and still low water flow .. They ddin't look clogged up were clean but still blew air thru them and still low prsessure . Might be where the problem ? Shut off valves ?
@Frank Montez Frank, I would disconnect the line from the faucet and turn the water on to see if you have full pressure coming to the kitchen faucet. If you have full pressure to the faucet and its not coming out that way, something in the faucet is impeding it inside the faucet. If you don’t have full pressure going into the faucet, since you know the line is clear from earlier, the cut off valve is very suspect at that point. Maybe while the water was off for days some rust or sediment dried in the cutoff valve, clogging it up.
Don’t you love plumbing problems?! 😜
@@DougForce no not truly .. 😂😆 I guess you mean try testing the pressure from the shut off valves ?
@Frank Montez - I would test the sink faucet first to be sure it’s working properly. Then I’d test the cut off valve to see if it’s the issue. More than likely the issue is the sink faucet or the cut off valve….one of them is not passing the water pressure along…..
@@DougForce update - finally found blockage somewhere in between the spout and supply lines. I blew compressed air from the spout to the lines. That did it. Even though I first blew compressed air from supply lines upwards that didn't work. I thought it was there ..in the spout or cartridge .. narrowed it down to that
@Frank Montez Glad to hear you found it! Interesting that you had to blow it from the opposite direction to free it up. Plumbing is always fun to troubleshoot!
So no need for teflon tape anywhere in this project?
@Roger Lane That’s a hotly debated matter of preference. Technically you don’t “need” Teflon tape on a compression fitting. It should seal without anything but compression. However, Murphy’s law, pipes slightly out of round, phase of the moon, etc can all cause leaks and Teflon tape absolutely helps out in those situations. Some people always use Teflon, or pipe dope, or both and swear by it. Some don’t. I usually start with just the compression fitting but if I have any seepage, I’ll definitely use tape and or pipe dope or both.
Was this video uploaded to promote the handy tool
@Fernando Rodriguez No, I’m not associated with the tool or company. I just found it to be easier than trying to cut the old ferrule off.
Great tutorial with very clear instructions. Thank you! Wondering if you would use a sharkbite fitting here? I replaced a water shut off valve behind a toilet in one of my bathrooms. It’s working fine but wondered what you think of using a sharkbite in this application? Thanks in advance.
@Kimberly J. Thanks for the kind words! SharkBite fitting are excellent and I wouldn’t hesitate to use them for valves like this. Professional plumbers have suggested in the past that they were more for emergency repairs, but SharkBite fittings carry a 25 year warranty. I might be more hesitant to use SharkBites behind a wall or someplace inaccessible but it’s pretty easy to snap a new one on under a sink or behind a toilet every 25 years! 😀
@@DougForce Thank you Doug! I value your opinion and this gives me confidence to use the sharkbite fittings on the easy to get to valves. I did call the company awhile ago and they assured me that they honor a 25 year warranty, and your feedback seals the deal! Thank you.
@@kimariokiji I’m flattered. Glad I could be helpful. Feels great to do it yourself and save the money and hassle of hiring it done, doesn’t it? I see you have lots of diy playlists so I know you are a do it yourselfer! 😀
I bought compression sleeve puller (the one pictured) to remove the compression ring off a CPVC pipe. It did not work. The ferule did not budge. Tool shaft that's meant to catch on the edge of the pipe, started going into the pipe itself. It may work on copper, but it certainly didn't work for me on CPVC.
@loo2001 Sorry to hear that. I was surprised to see that I had a cpvc pipe in the video, since all the other valves in the house were on copper pipe. The puller did work on the ferrule on the cpvc pipe for me but it was not stuck on too tightly. Maybe that had something to do with it. We’re you able to get it off another way?
@@DougForce Yes, I ended up cutting the pipe. The furrule's were on really tight, I tried removing it after I cut the pipe, still couldn't get it off. The fitting was installed in 1998. So it's been on quite awhile. Thanks for the video though, and I have te tool now if I ever need it in the future.
@loo2001 Definitely good to have multiple tools for the same job, as sometimes things just don’t work! I’ve seen several different styles of puller since I found this one. Might be a good review to compare all the pullers in the future. Thanks for the comments and thanks for watching!
that's awesome, thank you so much
@That’sAwesome!ThankYou! Appreciate the kind words!
I've cut the 1/2" copper pipe to place a new 1/4 turn new shut off valve. My cut of that copper pipe is not a perfect cut as I didn't have enough space to do a 360 turn which cutting that pipe. I've used a file to smooth out the pipe's edge, but it's not a perfect circle. Could that lead to leaks if I used a compression nut and ferrule? Thx
@KanZaman Yes, I think so. The pipe being out of round is a common cause of compression fitting leaks. That doesn’t mean it’s not worth a try as it might work fine - it all just depends. If you do have a leak after installing a new ferrule, take a look at switching to a “SharkBite” connection. They essentially snap on to the pipe and are much mess sensitive to out of round pipes.
@@DougForce Thanks Doug, that's very helpful.
@@DougForce I saw that Sharkbite valve at HD the other day and I didn't know what they were for, now I do. Thank you sir.
@KanZaman Compression ferrules are old school. The SharkBite system is the new technology that is much easier to install. It’s been around long enough now that plumbers have started to trust it. It’s very easy and reliable. I’ve only used it once but it was super easy
Very interesting. Thank you for sharing
@Hassan Bazzi I’m glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
Watching videos like this is the reason why I call a plumber. Thank you for the video, sir.
@G Money my pleasure!