. One thing that is nice about this video is the calling out of tools, 13MM and 21MM sockets. That saved me about 11 minutes of trying different sockets.
300 people really appreciate this, 18 disgruntled mechanics are upset your depleting their business lol Great video, perfect for the guy with 4 kids and not much money. Now I won't have feed my kids kraft dinner for 3 weeks straight just to save money for the mechanic. Thank you.
Brake jobs are EASY money for repair shops. I don't begrudge mechanics earning their money; they gotta eat too, but the markup shops make on parts is just ridiculous. I learned how to do brakes from a friend who used to be in the business about 20 years ago. Should have learned 40 years ago. Better late than never.
Great video! I would like to add, before you put the wheel on the car, be sure to clean the back side of the wheel where it will mate with the new rotor. A wire brush and wipe with a rag usually does the job. Thanks for your post and keep up the good work!
Whoo. Took 6 hours but got er.done. got nervous when i first put it into drive as had to pump the brakes. All good a minute later. Saving a few hundred worth the time. Thanks for a super informative video.
I was taught to face the crickets at the leading edge for forward rotation on each side, usually the top on the inside. That way the cricket is free to scrape the rotor when the pads wear down. The other way the cricket is stopped by the bracket so cannot vibrate anywhere near as much as it should.
I think you did a good with this video but just a note in pushing the Piston on the caliper. Make sure to open the hood and check the brake fluid level because when the Piston moves inward in the caliper bore the brake fluid level goes up in the reservoir.
Great video and very helpful! Especially as I get ready to do my own, always good to do a little refresher since I’ve done plenty of brakes just not on this van yet.
I have done this job before but used your site as a refresher as I am not a mechanic. I definitely needed the memory jog. This was a very helpful video. And it goes without saying; I subscribed!
@@2carpros Two requests: A hands on video of testing for shorts, and a primer on how to read a wiring diagram. I own an MG. I have fixed a lot of the wiring, but can't read the diagrams in the BL shop manual. Like I said, I am not a trained mechanic, but I did get it roadworthy, and it was a non runner when I bought it. My biggest challenge has been with the sparky smoky bits. Shocking!
Great video! I changed the pads and rotor plenty of times on my 1993 mercury cougar, I could have all 4 wheel disc brake pads sets changed in less than 10 minutes from as soon as I touch the wheel chocks because I lived on a very steep hill, and my wheel chocks was just random wood I found around the house that I set to the side for wheel chocks. I even changed honda civic pads nearly the same time, and toyota corrola nearly the same time, the only extra couple minutes it took was getting out my star or hex socket set. I also can change the alternator in like 5 minutes and change the starter in 10 minutes. Changing the oil was more relaxing, just let the oil drain for 10-15 minutes... no hurry... I now own a 2014 dodge caravan. And I can't even figure out what scrap metal is the engine. I mean. I love the engine power. I do wish I had got the 4 wheel drive caravan but it would have taken 3 weeks for delivery from chicago to seattle. So I just opted for the front wheel drive caravan. But I looked in the engine bay multiple times. I couldn't identify what the engine is. I was mostly looking for fuel line rails because there might be a leak, maybe, I only see the spots on the ground when its raining or snowing. And looking under the van, it drips a lot of liquid from both sides of the frame when it's raining. I don't think I even seen any spark plugs anywhere. I can't even find the transmission fluid level dipstick and I have been driving my van for months now without even checking the transmission fluid level.
Good instruction. The only real critique I have is that you never mentioned that the person should "check" the brake fluid level, both for low fluid but also being overfilled after pushing caliper pistons in. But that's it - everything was good information.
BIG FREAKING NOTE ABOUT THE PAD GUIDES: You briefly mentioned the brake pad guides, and that your new pads didn't come with them. Mine did. I popped off the old guides without taking note of their orientation. HUGE MISTAKE. I figured out the tabs that hold the guide to the mount, but not the orientation of the straight-up side vs. the 90° bend side I hadn't even noticed that there were two different configurations (4 each). Dang, those brake pads were *really* tight in the mount! I saw another site that advised to remove rust (cuz Michigan), so I used my wire brush drill bit on a power drill and a metal file to clean off the rust where the guides go. I noticed my mistake when I put the guides back on. Fortunately, your video, beginning at 7:56, show the correct orientation of these guides. Once I figured that out, the pads moved freely. BTW, I love these videos where it appears the vehicle has never been exposed to salt. LOOK AT HOW CLEAN THE CALIPER AND THE MOUNT ARE! LOOK AT HOW EASY THAT ROTOR CAME OFF! LOL! (My pads and rotors were about 3 years old, on a vehicle that sees nearly daily use, in mid-Michigan. It took about 15 hammer shots on each of the old rotors to get them off.)
Thanks for watching! I can't control the rate at which a vehicle is exposed to salt, I live in the desert. The one time I worked on a truck from South Dakota I just hosed everything down with WD-40 and used a large prybar a ton.
I'm not big on putting grease anywhere near the braking surface. If the grease heats up and gets on the rotor the brakes won't work so good. Thanks for watching!
If my van is shaking when I break and the rear rotors have been replaced last year will changing the front breaks take care of it? Mechanic diagnosed it over the phone as rotor pulsation.
Could be warped rotors. Some shops can fix them however, safer bet would be to replace the rotors altogether. If you have a newer Dodge Grand Caravan like I do, I upgraded the rotors (slotted and cross drilled) and brakes with performance parts from PowerStop brakes. Huge improvement from stock brakes. Btw, I dont rep the company at all, just a great product.
@@2carpros My only issue is that the damn lugnuts are swollen - have to get a lugnut extration tool to remove 3 out of 10 of the nuts. The mechanic last to do my tires stripped them!!!!
My brake pads won't go in snuggly. One end would get stuck. WHat should I do?? Should I take the bracket out and clean it? I tried to see what was the problem so I put the old pads in and it was stuck the same way. Then I put the old clips in. Both the new pads and old went in as it should. I was thinking about just bending in the new clips. Imma save ur video. Some videos say to file the end of the pads down a bit. But that was before I found out it was my new clips.
first time doing break pads here...quick qustion..do i need to change rotors too or if my rotors look good can i just leave them alone? thanks in advance...
the step at the end where you reset the piston by slowly pressing on the brake pedal: does that need to be done after replacing each rotor, or can it be done just once, after replacing them both?
Interesting. I always spray the rotor off with brake cleaning fluid. Are you using carb spray because its "around" or does it work better than brake cleaning fluid?
I really enjoye the video. I know nothing about cars, but am wanting to learn. I feel like I understood everything you said, so thanks for keeping it simple. One question, it appeared that when you put the rotor and the pads on that they were kind of lose. Is that normal? Meaning what keeps the rotor on are also the lug nuts and what keeps the pads in place is the clips and the caliper. Is that correct?
Thanks so much for watching. The lug nuts hold the rotor to the hub when you put the wheel back on. The caliper keeps the pads in there place. Thanks for watching!
U should of used blue locktight on all the bolts when u reinstalled them and caliper greese on the back on the pad that contacts the caliper piston it will help reduce brake noise also u should of used antisize between the wheel hub and rotors that way when u go to replace them later down the road they come off easier other than that nit picking good job
Yeah it is clear he lives in a warm climate without heavy use of road salt/sand. His warning that the rotor might just “fall off” when the bracket is taken off is laughable. I spend at least 10 minutes smacking those rotors around before they decided to brake away. Most everything else is good. I was a little concerned when he stated “you usually don’t need a torque wrench” since those specs are for safety and to avoid breaking a bolt that is rust-mated to a surface and over torqued from the previous install. But hey, he had the specs on screen so it was covering all the bases I wanted.
Caliper bracket bolts 125 ft. lbs., bet they do always seem tight, lol. Keeping the brake pads free from bind is up to those slide guides you chose to reuse.
@@2carpros As an engineer with 10 years experience with car electronic circuit and electric part who start his apprenticeship as auto mechanic now, i can i can tell your way of explanation is great. i will stuck with your videos buddy.
@@jediagh I have used one once before and literally bent it. There are special tools to make the pistons retract. But I believe that is by manufacturer.
My last front brake job was done with cheap Chinese made rotors and pads. They lasted 14,000 highway miles before wearing out completely. This time I will be using more cheap Chinese crap parts and see if they last longer.
Not sure what the specs say for “all Dodge vehicles,” but for the caliper bracket to steering knuckle bolts the service manual calls for 150 ft-lbs...that’s prolly one reason why they’re so difficult to remove especially if not using a long enough wrench...
. One thing that is nice about this video is the calling out of tools, 13MM and 21MM sockets. That saved me about 11 minutes of trying different sockets.
Thanks for watching!
300 people really appreciate this, 18 disgruntled mechanics are upset your depleting their business lol
Great video, perfect for the guy with 4 kids and not much money. Now I won't have feed my kids kraft dinner for 3 weeks straight just to save money for the mechanic. Thank you.
Completely agree! I am embarrassed I EVER paid to have this done. Great video!
Brake jobs are EASY money for repair shops. I don't begrudge mechanics earning their money; they gotta eat too, but the markup shops make on parts is just ridiculous.
I learned how to do brakes from a friend who used to be in the business about 20 years ago. Should have learned 40 years ago. Better late than never.
Great video! I would like to add, before you put the wheel on the car, be sure to clean the back side of the wheel where it will mate with the new rotor. A wire brush and wipe with a rag usually does the job.
Thanks for your post and keep up the good work!
Do you use brake grease on the mating surface? Here in the rust belt, getting the rotor off the hub can be a MAJOR undertaking.
thanks 💖
A little ant seize on the mating surfaces between the wheel and the rotor doesn't hurt either.😉
Whoo. Took 6 hours but got er.done. got nervous when i first put it into drive as had to pump the brakes. All good a minute later. Saving a few hundred worth the time. Thanks for a super informative video.
Good stuff!
I was taught to face the crickets at the leading edge for forward rotation on each side, usually the top on the inside. That way the cricket is free to scrape the rotor when the pads wear down. The other way the cricket is stopped by the bracket so cannot vibrate anywhere near as much as it should.
Dang! I love the info in this video AND how you explained EVERYTHING!! I have to do this to mine and was terrified...NOT ANYMORE!! _subscribed_ 💖
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
Awesome Job I have to put brakes on the wife's van. Glad I watched saves time on wrench size and to refresh memory******
Great! Thanks for watching!
I think you did a good with this video but just a note in pushing the Piston on the caliper. Make sure to open the hood and check the brake fluid level because when the Piston moves inward in the caliper bore the brake fluid level goes up in the reservoir.
WoW! thanks!
Great video and very helpful! Especially as I get ready to do my own, always good to do a little refresher since I’ve done plenty of brakes just not on this van yet.
Glad it was helpful!
I have done this job before but used your site as a refresher as I am not a mechanic. I definitely needed the memory jog. This was a very helpful video.
And it goes without saying; I subscribed!
Awesome! Thanks for watching and subbing Kelly!
@@2carpros Two requests:
A hands on video of testing for shorts, and a primer on how to read a wiring diagram.
I own an MG. I have fixed a lot of the wiring, but can't read the diagrams in the BL shop manual. Like I said, I am not a trained mechanic, but I did get it roadworthy, and it was a non runner when I bought it.
My biggest challenge has been with the sparky smoky bits.
Shocking!
Thanks. You saved me time tinkering. I Looked like a pro out there.
Great job!
This is the best video I’ve seen yet for this. Now I am subscribed. Great channel
Thanks for subbing!
Thanks for the help. Exactly what the mechanic ordered .
Great video. It was very helpful. Now I'd like to see ball joint and tie rod replacement on one of these vans.
Great suggestion!
Awesome as always!!!!!
Back at you! :)
Great video! I changed the pads and rotor plenty of times on my 1993 mercury cougar, I could have all 4 wheel disc brake pads sets changed in less than 10 minutes from as soon as I touch the wheel chocks because I lived on a very steep hill, and my wheel chocks was just random wood I found around the house that I set to the side for wheel chocks. I even changed honda civic pads nearly the same time, and toyota corrola nearly the same time, the only extra couple minutes it took was getting out my star or hex socket set. I also can change the alternator in like 5 minutes and change the starter in 10 minutes. Changing the oil was more relaxing, just let the oil drain for 10-15 minutes... no hurry...
I now own a 2014 dodge caravan. And I can't even figure out what scrap metal is the engine. I mean. I love the engine power. I do wish I had got the 4 wheel drive caravan but it would have taken 3 weeks for delivery from chicago to seattle. So I just opted for the front wheel drive caravan. But I looked in the engine bay multiple times. I couldn't identify what the engine is. I was mostly looking for fuel line rails because there might be a leak, maybe, I only see the spots on the ground when its raining or snowing. And looking under the van, it drips a lot of liquid from both sides of the frame when it's raining. I don't think I even seen any spark plugs anywhere. I can't even find the transmission fluid level dipstick and I have been driving my van for months now without even checking the transmission fluid level.
Fun fact! They don’t come with a trans dip stick u gotta order it separately 🥹
Thanks for the video, it's very helpful. Greetings from Europe
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative video! Thanks. Will try this myself
I have seen some other of your video and u seem very smart in the field. Thank u
Good instruction. The only real critique I have is that you never mentioned that the person should "check" the brake fluid level, both for low fluid but also being overfilled after pushing caliper pistons in. But that's it - everything was good information.
Plastic hubcaps are held on by lug nuts just a side note great video
Great video! I have done this on my 99 and 05, slightly different. Now I can do our 2011 and 2014! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Did you put caliper grease on?
Great vid , exactly what I needed . Good job.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for your help and support me in a couple things. GBU Bro!
Awsome! Thanks for watching!
BIG FREAKING NOTE ABOUT THE PAD GUIDES: You briefly mentioned the brake pad guides, and that your new pads didn't come with them. Mine did. I popped off the old guides without taking note of their orientation. HUGE MISTAKE. I figured out the tabs that hold the guide to the mount, but not the orientation of the straight-up side vs. the 90° bend side I hadn't even noticed that there were two different configurations (4 each). Dang, those brake pads were *really* tight in the mount! I saw another site that advised to remove rust (cuz Michigan), so I used my wire brush drill bit on a power drill and a metal file to clean off the rust where the guides go. I noticed my mistake when I put the guides back on. Fortunately, your video, beginning at 7:56, show the correct orientation of these guides. Once I figured that out, the pads moved freely.
BTW, I love these videos where it appears the vehicle has never been exposed to salt. LOOK AT HOW CLEAN THE CALIPER AND THE MOUNT ARE! LOOK AT HOW EASY THAT ROTOR CAME OFF! LOL! (My pads and rotors were about 3 years old, on a vehicle that sees nearly daily use, in mid-Michigan. It took about 15 hammer shots on each of the old rotors to get them off.)
Thanks for watching!
I can't control the rate at which a vehicle is exposed to salt, I live in the desert. The one time I worked on a truck from South Dakota I just hosed everything down with WD-40 and used a large prybar a ton.
Good and complete information and semi-entertaining. Very well done.
Thanks for watching!
Is there a reason not to lube the pads where they contact the cylinder? It says to do that in the instructions with the breaks.
I'm not big on putting grease anywhere near the braking surface. If the grease heats up and gets on the rotor the brakes won't work so good. Thanks for watching!
It would help if you show how to put caliper clips on. Not sure if every break pad set comes with them, but my Carquest gold pads did.
If my van is shaking when I break and the rear rotors have been replaced last year will changing the front breaks take care of it? Mechanic diagnosed it over the phone as rotor pulsation.
Could be warped rotors. Some shops can fix them however, safer bet would be to replace the rotors altogether. If you have a newer Dodge Grand Caravan like I do, I upgraded the rotors (slotted and cross drilled) and brakes with performance parts from PowerStop brakes.
Huge improvement from stock brakes. Btw, I dont rep the company at all, just a great product.
Good tutorial. Broke it down really well. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros My only issue is that the damn lugnuts are swollen - have to get a lugnut extration tool to remove 3 out of 10 of the nuts. The mechanic last to do my tires stripped them!!!!
very helpful. You may have just saved me a whack of money that I don't have.
thanks . plain and simple explaining.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Do you have video on dodge caravan 2014 double cylinder brake job
Yes! I am getting ready to do one of those as well.
Thanks a ton for the video. Did this today.
Great job!
Great video! Thank you!
You are welcome!
If the rear brakes are pads, is the process the same?
No. Because it has a ratcheting parking break. I did a video on it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the help.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
My brake pads won't go in snuggly. One end would get stuck. WHat should I do?? Should I take the bracket out and clean it? I tried to see what was the problem so I put the old pads in and it was stuck the same way. Then I put the old clips in. Both the new pads and old went in as it should. I was thinking about just bending in the new clips. Imma save ur video. Some videos say to file the end of the pads down a bit. But that was before I found out it was my new clips.
first time doing break pads here...quick qustion..do i need to change rotors too or if my rotors look good can i just leave them alone?
thanks in advance...
I advise getting new ones because they are so cheap these days and it is really important brakes work. Thanks for watching!
Great video! so details, thanks! one question: what grease you used to lubricate that bolt?
Just synthetic wheel bearing grease. Nothing special. Thanks for watching!
the step at the end where you reset the piston by slowly pressing on the brake pedal: does that need to be done after replacing each rotor, or can it be done just once, after replacing them both?
Either or. I do it after both. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks for the reply, and for the great video!
Interesting. I always spray the rotor off with brake cleaning fluid. Are you using carb spray because its "around" or does it work better than brake cleaning fluid?
Very similar fluids. I imagine they work the same. Thanks for watching!
Gee, I was trying to install the pads with the bracket off the car and getting very frustrated. With the bracket on the car, no problem. Thanks!
Good tip! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Been doing the hard way for 30 years! Thank you! Slow learner here.
I really enjoye the video. I know nothing about cars, but am wanting to learn. I feel like I understood everything you said, so thanks for keeping it simple. One question, it appeared that when you put the rotor and the pads on that they were kind of lose. Is that normal? Meaning what keeps the rotor on are also the lug nuts and what keeps the pads in place is the clips and the caliper. Is that correct?
Thanks so much for watching. The lug nuts hold the rotor to the hub when you put the wheel back on. The caliper keeps the pads in there place. Thanks for watching!
U should of used blue locktight on all the bolts when u reinstalled them and caliper greese on the back on the pad that contacts the caliper piston it will help reduce brake noise also u should of used antisize between the wheel hub and rotors that way when u go to replace them later down the road they come off easier other than that nit picking good job
Yeah it is clear he lives in a warm climate without heavy use of road salt/sand. His warning that the rotor might just “fall off” when the bracket is taken off is laughable. I spend at least 10 minutes smacking those rotors around before they decided to brake away. Most everything else is good. I was a little concerned when he stated “you usually don’t need a torque wrench” since those specs are for safety and to avoid breaking a bolt that is rust-mated to a surface and over torqued from the previous install.
But hey, he had the specs on screen so it was covering all the bases I wanted.
Caliper bracket bolts 125 ft. lbs., bet they do always seem tight, lol. Keeping the brake pads free from bind is up to those slide guides you chose to reuse.
If you just need to do the pads and not the disc, can you just remove the first part? Flick out the pads and swap them ?
Yep. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video,
Thanks for watching!
Hi, could you tell me where add transmission oil for dodge grandvan 2009.(3.3L) please.
Down the dip stick tube for the transmission. Thanks for watching!
Here in 2024 much appreciated brother 🫡
so your saying this will work on a 2016 grand caravan ?
only if is same caliper and rotor and hub or knuckle casting design,. bolts layout etc.
Yes.
This van has HD, dual piston calipers. Your's may have single piston. The parts are different, but the process is the same.
Great job!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
link for the brake kit expired...
Thank you.. Great...
Thank you for watching!
why u change the pads looks still good condtion
They were alright but they weren't broken in right so they didn't work very well. Thanks for watching!
the slider pins dont need much grease at all
perfect thanks
Welcome 👍
@@2carpros As an engineer with 10 years experience with car electronic circuit and electric part who start his apprenticeship as auto mechanic now, i can i can tell your way of explanation is great. i will stuck with your videos buddy.
Is this the same for 2014
Yeah it should be. Thanks for watching!
very good!
Thanks for watching!
Don’t you have to bleed the brakes after changing them?
Not if you don't open the system which we didn't. Thanks for watching!
use a bungy cord, don't let it rest there, if it falls that will be bad news
Always a good tip! But it was wedged in there pretty good. I actually struggled to get it out off camera. Thanks for watching!
Why did you change the ROTOR?
Because it was worn. Thanks for watching!
how do you jack this car up
Use the pinch mold that runs down the sides of the van. Thanks for watching!
Quiero saber cul kit comoear prs mi grand caravan 2012
My brake pads wouldn't fit into the bracket. I just went and bought a file to file down the edges a bit to get them in!
The torq specs for those bolts are higher than the lug nuts lol
Just relaying the info from Dodge. Thanks for watching!
Get yourself a 6" C clamp, works for virtually every brake caliper out there.
Very thorough! I've been doing my own brakes for 40 years and you do a Great job explaining for the new generation!
@@ToddMathis-hi7hk 40yrs, awesome. Started working on my own cars in about 1976. I am not trying to explain anything, just throwing a tip out there.
What about those brake clamp kits? Are those needed or just a 6" c-clamp? Those kits come with some type of adapters for various makes and models.
@@jediagh I have used one once before and literally bent it. There are special tools to make the pistons retract. But I believe that is by manufacturer.
Maybe a dumb question...what about the back brakes?
I did a whole video on them! Thanks for watching!
I like it . Don't put the c clamp on the caliper.. Use the old break pad, that makes complete sense.. I've never seen that..
It's the best! Except on the rear brakes for this car. There is a special tool for that.
So just tighten till you hnnnggggggg aaahhh lololol
That is correct lol Thanks for watching!
2CarPros thanks for the video
That might not be the best grease to use on caliper guide pins😮
sean astin
My last front brake job was done with cheap Chinese made rotors and pads. They lasted 14,000 highway miles before wearing out completely. This time I will be using more cheap Chinese crap parts and see if they last longer.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
How come every video i watch shows me how to take the wheel off but omits how to remove the caliper clips? Unreal.
What do you mean? You just pry them off. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros yeah, and possibly bend them
Nnamdi😊😊1ŵŵŵww
Not sure what the specs say for “all Dodge vehicles,” but for the caliper bracket to steering knuckle bolts the service manual calls for 150 ft-lbs...that’s prolly one reason why they’re so difficult to remove especially if not using a long enough wrench...
thought it was 126 lbs...
Great video thank you
Thanks for watching!
Hi, could you tell me where add transmission oil for dodge grandvan 2014 please.
No bleeding the brakes? Do they don’t need it?
If you don't open the system, no. Thanks for watching!