These are the Tools and Supplies I Recommend: Brake Caliper Compressor Tool- amzn.to/2UHtxSY Best Brake Grease- amzn.to/31JewBH Nickel Anti Seize- amzn.to/37f3BAT As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Great video! Loved the detail - especially the part about making sure the pistons are correctly aligned after you wind them back. I watched several videos and didn't catch that on any but yours. Fantastic! Thanks a ton!
Every time I change my pads I watch a re-fresher on you-tube. This is the best brake video I’ve seen so far. ‘Lining up the piston ‘ is something I never knew. One thing that is catching up with me though , at 57 , I’m sick of working off of my driveway . I wish I could go to a location and rent a hoist by the hour .
I really appreciated watching your video. I am semi knowledgeable of this type of work. Your instructions and the patience you displayed really encourages me to tackle this job. Again, thank you very much and I appreciate your knowledge!
Just found your YT channel. I've only watched the one video so far, but plan to continue watching as I need to do repairs on my van in the future. Great communication by the tech. He explained it well. I've been working on my own vehicles for my whole life and the tech makes it easy to follow for others that don't know what's going on. Great job sir.
Great video! Love the detail and and explanations of things. Decided to stop being lazy and just did my own brakes for the first time after watching your video several times to make sure I understood things. Could not have asked for better instruction on the whole procedure. Thank you so much for this!
This lad must be a real mechanic because none of the shade tree guys talk about lining up the inner pad pin with the piston slot!!! I learned the hard way by ruining 2 sets of rotors how important this is. Best video on this subject!!!
Nothing like the brake job I used to do on my Taurus. I Could not have done the brake job on my Grand Caravan without your help. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I have enjoyed your videos but since I don't own a Ford I never thought I would actually need one. Imagine my surprise to find you working on a Mopar. Thank you it was exactly the info I needed and done very well
Dang it, i wished i watched this yesterday before doing a friends rear rotors and pads. You made it look too easy. It took me 3hrs to do both rears, everything was seized. Great video.
This is truly the best instructional auto video I've ever seen! This guy is the bomb. I consider myself a long term gear head, but need help on the newer models. You, sir, have given me all the confidence I need. Sure hope I can continue to find you when I tackle new projects in the future. Appreciate you! Mike
Getting ready to replace rear pads and rotors on my 2009 Town & Country. So I decided to see if I could find any valuable tips on doing this on TH-cam U. before I start. The first video I watched less than a third of it and being somewhat of a motor-head, decided to quit as it wasn't much help. Yours was the second, and I went no further. Let me say this, you ARE a teacher my friend, the was video perfect! I really appreciated how you treated the caliper pins and your method to free them up if they get stubborn, freeing up the piston boot with a pick tool if it is binding to it, lubricants used and finally the details of lining up the slots on the piston with the pins on the pad back plate. Many Thanks..see you again.
Over torquing wheel nuts does two things. 1. Wallows out the stud hole in the wheel. 2.Over Stretches the stud thus wearing its strength. The third thing which is more of a pain is it makes harder to remove the wheel nut with the proper tool.
The alignment explains why my old pads wore funny. New pads don't have that tab so it wouldn't seem to matter. They are decent quality Wagner TCs, so hopefully that doesn't have negative effects.
On 2011 town and country those warning tabs were on the back side of the brakes. It was the first brake job on it as well. I should say low pad warning tab. Also had a problem getting one of those clips for the pad guide installed. The back would pop up every time I started putting the new pad in.
Concerning the discussion starting at 31:32 about the nubs on the back of the brake pad. What the purpose is of that little nub? Does it come into play when engaging the parking brake? Great video, was all set to do this job and then it turned out I had a stuck lug nut. The tire shop touched it last and apparently cross-threaded with an impact wrench. Since, I needed help getting the wheel stud replaced, I had the shop do the rear brakes while they were at it. Heard the shop guys talking about grinding the nub off...
Came looking for the torque specs as I have to do the rears on our '15 again, glad to see that you had the same issue with the guide pins that I had the last time I did the rears (the passenger side was locked up that time). Learning from that, I just ordered a new bracket and guide pins premptively as I believe that's the problem with the drivers rear this time.
Brian, Great video - thank you! Im not a Mopar guy but I am a BSG/FordTechMakuloco guy! BTW Ive always used a bit of Permatex anti-seize on my wheel stud threads to prevent rust seizing which is common in the northeast. God bless Paul (in MA)
Absolutely. Very thin coating rubbed in with a cloth keeps the lug nuts removable. Been doing it that way for 50 plus years. I also anti seize the caliper bolts & caliper bracket bolts the same way. Never had an issue with a loose bolt. To each their own.
Great video. Helped me a lot. Quick question. How important is the rubber on the stuck guide pins? They were shredded by the time I got them out. What a pain. Also without a vise...
@@BSGAutomotive thank you. I do feel that the guard bracket may hold snow and ice on it which could make it's way into the rubber shelve. Just a thought i had while changing. All other pins were good.
Thanks for making this vid. Good tip to try to free up a stuck caliper pin by spinning with the bolt while secured in a vise. But just why-o-why did Mother Mopar have one pin with the rubber and the other one without? Also a good tip on using a silicone brake grease so that said rubber on that caliper pin does NOT swell up.
I can't get the rotor off, pounded on it like you did for almost an hour, sprayed PB Blaster around the center hub and inside the holes around the studs and I can't budge it. Please let me know if you have any suggestions for getting it loose. Thanks
I'm puzzled why there are threads on the middle of the tool? Does the tool "push" the piston in any way, or does it simply turn the piston? Seems that you could simply have a supported shaft with the round drive-plate and wind the piston in. Maybe the middle threads keep the round plate in contact with the piston, but wouldn't you need to have exactly the same pitch of thread in both the tool and caliper (distance moved per turn...)?
At 4:05 you say let's show you that now and all the sudden there's this red bar lookin' thing ( pardon the shade tree mechanic terminology there) what is that and what's it for?
@@freecycling6687 Oh derrrrrr, you're absolutely right!!! Watch for my new channel gonna be coming up here in a bit,, "How To Identify An LED Light Easily." I'm hoping there's a million other dummies out there like me that will subscribe. ;)
Last time I did the brakes on my 2010 t&c,. The boots twisted and tore. Had to get both rear calipers replaced. I am due for new pads again. What can I do to keep the boots from spinning with the piston and ripping? Probably not enough pressure pushing in, or is that just something that happens eventually given they were the original calipers and I live in the rust belt? Ive done tons of brake jobs on various vehicles, but rarely on the screw type calipers. Needless to say a felt like an real dummy when I tore both and would like to avoid this go around.
The video (2008-2020) showed the rear pads being installed with the wear indicators at the bottom of the pad. However, my 2015 Grand Caravan 3.6 liter vvt apparently requires the wear indicators to be on top, for all 4 wheels. Any comment?
These are the Tools and Supplies I Recommend:
Brake Caliper Compressor Tool-
amzn.to/2UHtxSY
Best Brake Grease-
amzn.to/31JewBH
Nickel Anti Seize-
amzn.to/37f3BAT As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Can i take your number pls
..
hy
hey
Great video! Loved the detail - especially the part about making sure the pistons are correctly aligned after you wind them back. I watched several videos and didn't catch that on any but yours. Fantastic! Thanks a ton!
Every time I change my pads I watch a re-fresher on you-tube. This is the best brake video I’ve seen so far. ‘Lining up the piston ‘ is something I never knew.
One thing that is catching up with me though , at 57 , I’m sick of working off of my driveway . I wish I could go to a location and rent a hoist by the hour .
that brake job was a pain, and all I did was WATCH! good job!
Thank you very much for this tutorial. This is the best example of how brakes should be done. BSG is truly top notch.
This is the best brake video I have seen, very through and neat, Thank you sir.......
This guy is great! I used to watch his Ford repair videos when I had an F-150. Excellent source of info!
Just used this video tonight to solve a similar issue with the lower pin binding. Saved me a ton of time!
I really appreciated watching your video. I am semi knowledgeable of this type of work. Your instructions and the patience you displayed really encourages me to tackle this job. Again, thank you very much and I appreciate your knowledge!
Brakes are so under rated ... excellent job on showing and explaining all the pitfalls and tips n tricks to do the job right the first time.
Great detail, lighting, explaining multiple methods to remove things, etc. fantastic instructional video.
This individual is highly skilled and accomplished in their chosen field.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Just found your YT channel. I've only watched the one video so far, but plan to continue watching as I need to do repairs on my van in the future. Great communication by the tech. He explained it well. I've been working on my own vehicles for my whole life and the tech makes it easy to follow for others that don't know what's going on. Great job sir.
Great video! Love the detail and and explanations of things. Decided to stop being lazy and just did my own brakes for the first time after watching your video several times to make sure I understood things. Could not have asked for better instruction on the whole procedure. Thank you so much for this!
This lad must be a real mechanic because none of the shade tree guys talk about lining up the inner pad pin with the piston slot!!! I learned the hard way by ruining 2 sets of rotors how important this is. Best video on this subject!!!
Excellent tutorial. Glad to see the finer explanations, like the nub on rear brake piston and the importance on lining it up.
Nothing like the brake job I used to do on my Taurus. I Could not have done the brake job on my Grand Caravan without your help. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I have enjoyed your videos but since I don't own a Ford I never thought I would actually need one. Imagine my surprise to find you working on a Mopar. Thank you it was exactly the info I needed and done very well
Dang it, i wished i watched this yesterday before doing a friends rear rotors and pads. You made it look too easy. It took me 3hrs to do both rears, everything was seized. Great video.
This is truly the best instructional auto video I've ever seen! This guy is the bomb. I consider myself a long term gear head, but need help on the newer models. You, sir, have given me all the confidence I need. Sure hope I can continue to find you when I tackle new projects in the future. Appreciate you! Mike
Great video, As a amateur mechanic I always had trouble with the clips but this video really helped, Thank you.
You are a natural for youtube! Very good help for me to finish my 2014 Grand Caravan!
Rotors rusted on for me so I came in and quit!
Outstanding, far and above any other video on this matter. Thank you,
Getting ready to replace rear pads and rotors on my 2009 Town & Country. So I decided to see if I could find any valuable tips on doing this on TH-cam U. before I start. The first video I watched less than a third of it and being somewhat of a motor-head, decided to quit as it wasn't much help. Yours was the second, and I went no further. Let me say this, you ARE a teacher my friend, the was video perfect! I really appreciated how you treated the caliper pins and your method to free them up if they get stubborn, freeing up the piston boot with a pick tool if it is binding to it, lubricants used and finally the details of lining up the slots on the piston with the pins on the pad back plate. Many Thanks..see you again.
Cleaning brush jag for a 20 gauge shotgun barrel looks like it would be a perfect fit for reaming out the gunk in there. Great tips as always!
Thank you! Just changed my brakes and rotors for the 1st time and your video made it a much easier process!
GREAT JOB... seems like you did it the way it's supposed to be done makes me wonder if other mechanics pay this much attention to detail.
Cleaning the pin was great loved the technique to save the old part
You ROCK ......
BEST "How Too" vide on TH-cam.
Very Thorough better than most videos thanks
Great job with the video, teaching detail, and reasoning. I enjoyed it and learn a great deal. Keep up the good work.
Excellent video. Best detailed and concise commentary on the process. Learned a lot and got the job done. Thank you sir.
Absolutely the best brake video for my van! Thank you!
Very thorough video Great for DIY techs. Thanks for taking the time.
Much success on your new channel! Thank you for all the great information you provide👍
Nicely done! You provided lots of details for doing the job that included troubleshooting along with future preventative steps as well. 2 THUMBS UP!
Love your channel, and you are truly helpful for auto repair!!! Thanks
Over torquing wheel nuts does two things. 1. Wallows out the stud hole in the wheel. 2.Over Stretches the stud thus wearing its strength. The third thing which is more of a pain is it makes harder to remove the wheel nut with the proper tool.
best detail of any video I've watched.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. The vid is very well done with much attention to detail. You saved me hundreds $$
This was awesome. Really really great explanations. Great directions
wish I could give you more than one thumbs up! great job
Thank you, helpful video. Greetings from Europe
Great video.Please keep posting.
one of the best . great instructions and video
Semper Fi! Brother, thanks for the information!
Great video awesome tutorial with all important details. 👍
Great video. Learned what I need to know the easy way.
I guess you could be a movie star you got the making the faces and everything
This is a great video! Thank you!
This is great. Our caliper bolts won’t come loose for anything though 😅 It’s definitely throwing a wrench in the repair.
Great video. Thank you so much for all the information it is a huge help.
The alignment explains why my old pads wore funny. New pads don't have that tab so it wouldn't seem to matter. They are decent quality Wagner TCs, so hopefully that doesn't have negative effects.
great video. thank you for all your hard work. love your videos.
Eric o from south main auto is a pro when it comes to caliper slide pins getting stuck haha love your video tho good tips!!!
Yeah I couldn’t handle the amount of rust he has to deal with out there.
Thank you for the great video. Made the job so much easier.
On 2011 town and country those warning tabs were on the back side of the brakes. It was the first brake job on it as well. I should say low pad warning tab. Also had a problem getting one of those clips for the pad guide installed. The back would pop up every time I started putting the new pad in.
Concerning the discussion starting at 31:32 about the nubs on the back of the brake pad. What the purpose is of that little nub? Does it come into play when engaging the parking brake?
Great video, was all set to do this job and then it turned out I had a stuck lug nut. The tire shop touched it last and apparently cross-threaded with an impact wrench. Since, I needed help getting the wheel stud replaced, I had the shop do the rear brakes while they were at it. Heard the shop guys talking about grinding the nub off...
Came looking for the torque specs as I have to do the rears on our '15 again, glad to see that you had the same issue with the guide pins that I had the last time I did the rears (the passenger side was locked up that time). Learning from that, I just ordered a new bracket and guide pins premptively as I believe that's the problem with the drivers rear this time.
good job, thanks for sharing the video and also for not putting music in the background. work sound better.
Brian,
Great video - thank you! Im not a Mopar guy but I am a BSG/FordTechMakuloco guy! BTW Ive always used a bit of Permatex anti-seize on my wheel stud threads to prevent rust seizing which is common in the northeast.
God bless
Paul (in MA)
Absolutely. Very thin coating rubbed in with a cloth keeps the lug nuts removable.
Been doing it that way for 50 plus years.
I also anti seize the caliper bolts & caliper bracket bolts the same way.
Never had an issue with a loose bolt.
To each their own.
Is a little easier to install the pads when there in the vice, especially when you're working in the driveway. Great video
I have an additional bracket holding the brake line together in the 2008 model, hard getting it off I'm gonna need to get a longer breaker bar
Great video. Helped me a lot. Quick question. How important is the rubber on the stuck guide pins? They were shredded by the time I got them out. What a pain. Also without a vise...
It is not absolutely necessary.
@@BSGAutomotive thank you. I do feel that the guard bracket may hold snow and ice on it which could make it's way into the rubber shelve. Just a thought i had while changing. All other pins were good.
Very informative and excellent walk through. 5stars
Please add a comment or video addressing the parking cable!
Thanks for the video
Most Excellent Video.....Didn't miss a thing, Thank You:-)
Excellent video!
Do you have a TH-cam video how to change the spark plugs on a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan Crew V6 cylinder?
On the piston compressor tool would you use the right hand or left hand compression tool?
Great video thank you!!
Superb content really appreciate the time and effort you take over your channel 👊
Great jpb. Thankyou very much
Good Stuff as always
Good Show!
Thanks for making this vid. Good tip to try to free up a stuck caliper pin by spinning with the bolt while secured in a vise. But just why-o-why did Mother Mopar have one pin with the rubber and the other one without? Also a good tip on using a silicone brake grease so that said rubber on that caliper pin does NOT swell up.
I can't get the rotor off, pounded on it like you did for almost an hour, sprayed PB Blaster around the center hub and inside the holes around the studs and I can't budge it. Please let me know if you have any suggestions for getting it loose. Thanks
Good video thanks
You did that way better then I did I may have re do my brakes
This looks like a single (non-heavy duty) rotor and brake. Only 1 piston, correct?
I would like to see when the piston need to be replace.
Yes this is really good brakes vidéo!
can i use 1/2 copper fitting brush to clean inside the bore? would that damage anything?
I'm puzzled why there are threads on the middle of the tool? Does the tool "push" the piston in any way, or does it simply turn the piston? Seems that you could simply have a supported shaft with the round drive-plate and wind the piston in. Maybe the middle threads keep the round plate in contact with the piston, but wouldn't you need to have exactly the same pitch of thread in both the tool and caliper (distance moved per turn...)?
Do both of the rear calipers rewind the same direction?
Looked like the HD version brakes.
Nicely done
Do you need to take the cap of the master cylinder reservoir off when you push the caliper piston back in?
You don't have to, but it is a good idea, especially if your fluid reservoir is up to the top.
Very good!!!
good video
Really good work, thanks!
what kind oil you put on before you put rotor？
Thanks so much
I can't find the anti rattle clips anywhere. Do you have a part number?
My brackets didn’t fit when I put the pads back on. Does it really needs those anti rattle brackets??
thanks ,,,,,ur the best
At 4:05 you say let's show you that now and all the sudden there's this red bar lookin' thing ( pardon the shade tree mechanic terminology there) what is that and what's it for?
That's actually an LED work light, looks like it's clipped on to one of the hoses towards the inside of the wheel well.
@@freecycling6687 Oh derrrrrr, you're absolutely right!!! Watch for my new channel gonna be coming up here in a bit,, "How To Identify An LED Light Easily." I'm hoping there's a million other dummies out there like me that will subscribe. ;)
@@johnroberts3515 Ha ha, not a bad idea for a channel!
Last time I did the brakes on my 2010 t&c,. The boots twisted and tore. Had to get both rear calipers replaced. I am due for new pads again. What can I do to keep the boots from spinning with the piston and ripping? Probably not enough pressure pushing in, or is that just something that happens eventually given they were the original calipers and I live in the rust belt?
Ive done tons of brake jobs on various vehicles, but rarely on the screw type calipers. Needless to say a felt like an real dummy when I tore both and would like to avoid this go around.
The video (2008-2020) showed the rear pads being installed with the wear indicators at the bottom of the pad. However, my 2015 Grand Caravan 3.6 liter vvt apparently requires the wear indicators to be on top, for all 4 wheels. Any comment?