Rear Brake Job Walkthrough: 2008-2020 Dodge Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2020
- In this video we guide you through the process of replacing the rear brakes on your 2008 or newer Chrysler van.
These are the Tools and Supplies I Recommend:
Brake Caliper Compressor Tool-
amzn.to/2UHtxSY
Best Brake Grease-
amzn.to/31JewBH
Nickel Anti Seize-
amzn.to/37f3BAT
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomotive.com
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “BSG Automotive”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. BSG Automotive shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by BSG Automotive and therefore, BSG Automotive does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge BSG Automotive or anyone affiliated with BSG Automotive, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
These are the Tools and Supplies I Recommend:
Brake Caliper Compressor Tool-
amzn.to/2UHtxSY
Best Brake Grease-
amzn.to/31JewBH
Nickel Anti Seize-
amzn.to/37f3BAT As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Can i take your number pls
..
hy
hey
that brake job was a pain, and all I did was WATCH! good job!
Great video! Loved the detail - especially the part about making sure the pistons are correctly aligned after you wind them back. I watched several videos and didn't catch that on any but yours. Fantastic! Thanks a ton!
Just found your YT channel. I've only watched the one video so far, but plan to continue watching as I need to do repairs on my van in the future. Great communication by the tech. He explained it well. I've been working on my own vehicles for my whole life and the tech makes it easy to follow for others that don't know what's going on. Great job sir.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. This is the best example of how brakes should be done. BSG is truly top notch.
This lad must be a real mechanic because none of the shade tree guys talk about lining up the inner pad pin with the piston slot!!! I learned the hard way by ruining 2 sets of rotors how important this is. Best video on this subject!!!
Cleaning the pin was great loved the technique to save the old part
This guy is great! I used to watch his Ford repair videos when I had an F-150. Excellent source of info!
This is the best brake video I have seen, very through and neat, Thank you sir.......
Just used this video tonight to solve a similar issue with the lower pin binding. Saved me a ton of time!
I really appreciated watching your video. I am semi knowledgeable of this type of work. Your instructions and the patience you displayed really encourages me to tackle this job. Again, thank you very much and I appreciate your knowledge!
Dang it, i wished i watched this yesterday before doing a friends rear rotors and pads. You made it look too easy. It took me 3hrs to do both rears, everything was seized. Great video.
Great detail, lighting, explaining multiple methods to remove things, etc. fantastic instructional video.
Great video! Love the detail and and explanations of things. Decided to stop being lazy and just did my own brakes for the first time after watching your video several times to make sure I understood things. Could not have asked for better instruction on the whole procedure. Thank you so much for this!
I have enjoyed your videos but since I don't own a Ford I never thought I would actually need one. Imagine my surprise to find you working on a Mopar. Thank you it was exactly the info I needed and done very well
Brakes are so under rated ... excellent job on showing and explaining all the pitfalls and tips n tricks to do the job right the first time.
I always put anti seize on my lug studs.. done hundreds of wheels over my 30 years working on cars and never once have I had a wheel come off. If you have seen far too many come off then someone is not torqueing the wheels nuts correctly.
Nothing like the brake job I used to do on my Taurus. I Could not have done the brake job on my Grand Caravan without your help. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
This is truly the best instructional auto video I've ever seen! This guy is the bomb. I consider myself a long term gear head, but need help on the newer models. You, sir, have given me all the confidence I need. Sure hope I can continue to find you when I tackle new projects in the future. Appreciate you! Mike
Cleaning brush jag for a 20 gauge shotgun barrel looks like it would be a perfect fit for reaming out the gunk in there. Great tips as always!
Great video, As a amateur mechanic I always had trouble with the clips but this video really helped, Thank you.
Excellent tutorial. Glad to see the finer explanations, like the nub on rear brake piston and the importance on lining it up.
You are a natural for youtube! Very good help for me to finish my 2014 Grand Caravan!
Rotors rusted on for me so I came in and quit!
GREAT JOB... seems like you did it the way it's supposed to be done makes me wonder if other mechanics pay this much attention to detail.
Much success on your new channel! Thank you for all the great information you provide👍
You ROCK ......
BEST "How Too" vide on TH-cam.
Great job with the video, teaching detail, and reasoning. I enjoyed it and learn a great deal. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! Just changed my brakes and rotors for the 1st time and your video made it a much easier process!
Excellent video. Best detailed and concise commentary on the process. Learned a lot and got the job done. Thank you sir.
Over torquing wheel nuts does two things. 1. Wallows out the stud hole in the wheel. 2.Over Stretches the stud thus wearing its strength. The third thing which is more of a pain is it makes harder to remove the wheel nut with the proper tool.
I guess you could be a movie star you got the making the faces and everything
Nicely done! You provided lots of details for doing the job that included troubleshooting along with future preventative steps as well. 2 THUMBS UP!
Absolutely the best brake video for my van! Thank you!
Very thorough video Great for DIY techs. Thanks for taking the time.
Semper Fi! Brother, thanks for the information!
This was awesome. Really really great explanations. Great directions
great video. thank you for all your hard work. love your videos.
Thank you for the great video. Made the job so much easier.
Came looking for the torque specs as I have to do the rears on our '15 again, glad to see that you had the same issue with the guide pins that I had the last time I did the rears (the passenger side was locked up that time). Learning from that, I just ordered a new bracket and guide pins premptively as I believe that's the problem with the drivers rear this time.
Very Thorough better than most videos thanks
Great video. Learned what I need to know the easy way.
This is a great video! Thank you!
Great video awesome tutorial with all important details. 👍
one of the best . great instructions and video
best detail of any video I've watched.
Very informative and excellent walk through. 5stars
Great video.Please keep posting.
Good Stuff as always
Great video. Thank you so much for all the information it is a huge help.
Thank you, helpful video. Greetings from Europe
Excellent video! Thanks!
Thank you! Great video!
This is great. Our caliper bolts won’t come loose for anything though 😅 It’s definitely throwing a wrench in the repair.
wish I could give you more than one thumbs up! great job
Really good work, thanks!
Excellent video!
Thank You! Great Video.
Good Show!
Thanks for the video
On 2011 town and country those warning tabs were on the back side of the brakes. It was the first brake job on it as well. I should say low pad warning tab. Also had a problem getting one of those clips for the pad guide installed. The back would pop up every time I started putting the new pad in.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. The vid is very well done with much attention to detail. You saved me hundreds $$
Yes this is really good brakes vidéo!
Nicely done
I can't get the rotor off, pounded on it like you did for almost an hour, sprayed PB Blaster around the center hub and inside the holes around the studs and I can't budge it. Please let me know if you have any suggestions for getting it loose. Thanks
Thanks for making this vid. Good tip to try to free up a stuck caliper pin by spinning with the bolt while secured in a vise. But just why-o-why did Mother Mopar have one pin with the rubber and the other one without? Also a good tip on using a silicone brake grease so that said rubber on that caliper pin does NOT swell up.
Great jpb. Thankyou very much
Great video thank you!!
Most Excellent Video.....Didn't miss a thing, Thank You:-)
Is a little easier to install the pads when there in the vice, especially when you're working in the driveway. Great video
The alignment explains why my old pads wore funny. New pads don't have that tab so it wouldn't seem to matter. They are decent quality Wagner TCs, so hopefully that doesn't have negative effects.
Concerning the discussion starting at 31:32 about the nubs on the back of the brake pad. What the purpose is of that little nub? Does it come into play when engaging the parking brake?
Great video, was all set to do this job and then it turned out I had a stuck lug nut. The tire shop touched it last and apparently cross-threaded with an impact wrench. Since, I needed help getting the wheel stud replaced, I had the shop do the rear brakes while they were at it. Heard the shop guys talking about grinding the nub off...
Superb content really appreciate the time and effort you take over your channel 👊
Eric o from south main auto is a pro when it comes to caliper slide pins getting stuck haha love your video tho good tips!!!
Yeah I couldn’t handle the amount of rust he has to deal with out there.
Good video thanks
good job, thanks for sharing the video and also for not putting music in the background. work sound better.
Thanks so much
You did that way better then I did I may have re do my brakes
thanks ,,,,,ur the best
good video
I have an additional bracket holding the brake line together in the 2008 model, hard getting it off I'm gonna need to get a longer breaker bar
Great video. Helped me a lot. Quick question. How important is the rubber on the stuck guide pins? They were shredded by the time I got them out. What a pain. Also without a vise...
It is not absolutely necessary.
@@BSGAutomotive thank you. I do feel that the guard bracket may hold snow and ice on it which could make it's way into the rubber shelve. Just a thought i had while changing. All other pins were good.
Very good!!!
Hi, I have a 2017 dodge grand caravan. I have had my front rotors turned and replaced several times. The owner of the shop said the front rotors are notorious for warping. The rotors ate less than a year old and I just had them turned last week before going on a trip. I drove 800 miles and the vehicle started shaking while going down steep hills. I was actually very careful this trip and didn't ride the breaker at all. During the last repair the mechanic stated that the only way to permanently fix this problembis to buy cold forged breaks and that they are super expensive. Does this sound right? Thanks for your help.
can i use 1/2 copper fitting brush to clean inside the bore? would that damage anything?
I'm puzzled why there are threads on the middle of the tool? Does the tool "push" the piston in any way, or does it simply turn the piston? Seems that you could simply have a supported shaft with the round drive-plate and wind the piston in. Maybe the middle threads keep the round plate in contact with the piston, but wouldn't you need to have exactly the same pitch of thread in both the tool and caliper (distance moved per turn...)?
I have a 2012 Town & Country and the brakes keep wearing out after about a year (less than 10k miles). Are there any particular brakes you recommend for this car so that the brakes last longer?
How do I know what size roter I have? I see two different sizes listed for my van. Did I need to remove the wheel to measure the roter or can they go by my VIN?
Brian,
Great video - thank you! Im not a Mopar guy but I am a BSG/FordTechMakuloco guy! BTW Ive always used a bit of Permatex anti-seize on my wheel stud threads to prevent rust seizing which is common in the northeast.
God bless
Paul (in MA)
Absolutely. Very thin coating rubbed in with a cloth keeps the lug nuts removable.
Been doing it that way for 50 plus years.
I also anti seize the caliper bolts & caliper bracket bolts the same way.
Never had an issue with a loose bolt.
To each their own.
Last time I did the brakes on my 2010 t&c,. The boots twisted and tore. Had to get both rear calipers replaced. I am due for new pads again. What can I do to keep the boots from spinning with the piston and ripping? Probably not enough pressure pushing in, or is that just something that happens eventually given they were the original calipers and I live in the rust belt?
Ive done tons of brake jobs on various vehicles, but rarely on the screw type calipers. Needless to say a felt like an real dummy when I tore both and would like to avoid this go around.
The video (2008-2020) showed the rear pads being installed with the wear indicators at the bottom of the pad. However, my 2015 Grand Caravan 3.6 liter vvt apparently requires the wear indicators to be on top, for all 4 wheels. Any comment?
How can I check if my rear calipers are working i need to see if both pads are moving on the rotor? I had both brakes replaced but I still get a slight shim feel when i brake and I know its the rear because when I hit the e brake only i get the same thing.
My brackets didn’t fit when I put the pads back on. Does it really needs those anti rattle brackets??
I can't find the anti rattle clips anywhere. Do you have a part number?
Do both of the rear calipers rewind the same direction?
Do you need to take the cap of the master cylinder reservoir off when you push the caliper piston back in?
You don't have to, but it is a good idea, especially if your fluid reservoir is up to the top.
This looks like a single (non-heavy duty) rotor and brake. Only 1 piston, correct?
No bleeding the brake lines?
Great video, thanks alot!
Please add a comment or video addressing the parking cable!
On my 2020 van you can retract the piston from the electronic cluster panel. Don't know about other years.