For a cleaner look, in one installation I did I replaced all 12 manifold to head bolts with identical fasteners to the BD-supplied socket head bolts. In others I used studs.
If you are having trouble getting the exhaust manifold bolts out, your suggestion is to bring the engine up to operating temp. So you would have to hook the turbo lubrication lines back up or you will have one hell of a mess.
It really is not a downgrade. What it does is increase exhaust gas velocity into the turbo, IF you use a turbo with the same internal divider, they tend to call it 'pulse' manifold. It helps a little also with an open turbo. So instead of exhaust gas flowing into a large space, it stays directed to the turbo. Doing this helps the turbo spool up faster, so you get more engine power at lower RPM.
@@scottdowney4318 Look at the camera angle it's a closeup so the stock manifold looks enormous in the foreground and the new one is in the background loos smaller. Look at the differences in the width of the flanbges betewwn the two as well as the bolt hole spacing if the new one was really that small the turbo wouldn't bolt up.
How would you bring the engine up to normal operating temperature if you have already removed the oil lines from the turbo and the turbo from the manifold? So should you warm the truck it before taking anything off?
You mentioned bringing the engine up to operating temp to help with breaking loose the manifold bolts....but you had already removed the turbo, battery, etc. I’m guessing that you meant running the engine before all the disassembly takes place?
Great question. Some of the 24 valve automatic trucks with the HY turbo had a undivided housing, and the HX manuals had a divided housing. Even though the manifold is divided, if the turbo isnt, you don’t want to use the divided gasket. The manuals had a divided housing to aid in turbo spool for lost “momentum” from shifting gears in a standard shift.
How exactly do you bring engine/motor to operating temperature with turbo off? Edit: Thanks again I have watched this more than once. I have a 95 12v, plan on tackling this project soon, been trying to spray all these bolts with penetrant. Also need to replace motor mount rh side, cracked.
An automatic maintains constant load on the engine which helps keeps the turbo spooled. A manual unloads the engine between shifts so it needs more help to spool back up after a shift, hence the divided turbine.
great information, planning on getting a 12 valve in a few months. should I expect basically the same info? I'd still check torque specs just in case, and know the 12 valve doesn't use manifold bolt spacers, but I'd imagine everything else would be the same information, right?
Wade, I love your videos. In this one you mentioned about the AC switch rubbing on the outflow boot and moving it so it's not a threat to rub a hole through the boot. I've tried turning the outflow pipe toward the passenger tire but it ends up turning back. How do you suggest getting that condition fixed? I am nervous about repostioning that AC line. Will I break it? What a bad place to put that AC line! Thanks for any help.
Where the pieces fit it to the center part of manifold does anything need to be put on the surfaces that slide in? Also does it leak any where they slide in it center part of manifold?
No, nothing needs to be added there. Once the manifold is installed, the heat from the engine will cause the manifold material to expand and create a seal.
If you're using manifold studs rather than the factory bolts, would you suggest double-nutting the stud into the head and threading it pretty deeply or just run them down finger tight? Thanks for the great video!
Can anyone please tell me if the exhaust manifold cracks happen to the 24valve 5.9 like the 12vavle 5.9? Or are the cracks just happening on the 12valve 5.9’s ?
Is the fact that it cracks a symptom of an engineering error by Dodge or is it something else? I mean if it’s that the head is expanding and contracting through heat / cool cycles is there another problem that’s occurring that causes the manifolds to crack? The manifold cracking is a symptom What’s the cause?
@@steve5912 It definitely flows better. I thought the same when I compared the outlet holes, however once installed my turbo spooled quicker, I made the same power but reached peak boost 150rpm sooner, snd EGT's were down 100°. 4 years and no cracks.
ParoDoXz mine is an 01 6 spd manual and has an hx35w doesn't have the nice v-band clamp just the stupid bell mouth down pipe onto the ball like ended elbow
Oh I see, yeah this one may be an automatic then (in the video) cause I didn't notice the infamous blue NSN tag on the turbo like all HX35s have. The HY35s don't have the blue tags
For a cleaner look, in one installation I did I replaced all 12 manifold to head bolts with identical fasteners to the BD-supplied socket head bolts. In others I used studs.
If you are having trouble getting the exhaust manifold bolts out, your suggestion is to bring the engine up to operating temp. So you would have to hook the turbo lubrication lines back up or you will have one hell of a mess.
Wade! Santy Clause needs to bring you a set of ratcheting end wrenches for Christmas!! Maybe even pivoting ones!!
Fram filter, yuck
Look how small the exhaust ports are that go to the turbo on the new one. Looks like a downgrade to me.
It really is not a downgrade. What it does is increase exhaust gas velocity into the turbo, IF you use a turbo with the same internal divider, they tend to call it 'pulse' manifold. It helps a little also with an open turbo. So instead of exhaust gas flowing into a large space, it stays directed to the turbo. Doing this helps the turbo spool up faster, so you get more engine power at lower RPM.
@@scottdowney4318 Look at the camera angle it's a closeup so the stock manifold looks enormous in the foreground and the new one is in the background loos smaller. Look at the differences in the width of the flanbges betewwn the two as well as the bolt hole spacing if the new one was really that small the turbo wouldn't bolt up.
Would have been nice to see a dyno before and after.
Love how the oil line runs right on top of the exhaust manifold. Lol!
How would you bring the engine up to normal operating temperature if you have already removed the oil lines from the turbo and the turbo from the manifold? So should you warm the truck it before taking anything off?
At that point you cant. You will have to remove the bolts with caution.
Great video guys!
Thanks so much!
You mentioned bringing the engine up to operating temp to help with breaking loose the manifold bolts....but you had already removed the turbo, battery, etc. I’m guessing that you meant running the engine before all the disassembly takes place?
Yes, good practice if you can stand it is to break the bolts loose with the engine warm after you shut it down.
Too bad the don't warranty it when IT DOES CRACK past 1 year..... mine has 2 cracks at the down portion where it connects to the turbo
please tell me that is not a fram oil filter!... good video.
Why does something as simple as which transmission we have determine if that gasket should be divided or not?
Great question. Some of the 24 valve automatic trucks with the HY turbo had a undivided housing, and the HX manuals had a divided housing. Even though the manifold is divided, if the turbo isnt, you don’t want to use the divided gasket. The manuals had a divided housing to aid in turbo spool for lost “momentum” from shifting gears in a standard shift.
How exactly do you bring engine/motor to operating temperature with turbo off? Edit: Thanks again I have watched this more than once. I have a 95 12v, plan on tackling this project soon, been trying to spray all these bolts with penetrant. Also need to replace motor mount rh side, cracked.
You can leave turbo on to loosen the manifold bolts.
Why would it matter between standard and automatic? It seems like the automatic would flow more air
An automatic maintains constant load on the engine which helps keeps the turbo spooled. A manual unloads the engine between shifts so it needs more help to spool back up after a shift, hence the divided turbine.
177SCmaro please explain more thoroughly what is spooled ?
I like to ask you something Wade now does heat penetrate up through that bracket
hey would the removal process be the same for 2005 your fuel filter video really helped me out
BD manifold has Smaller holes looks like a downgrade to me
can i get it ceramic coated? If so do i have it done as a single piece or sperate it into the three pieces?
Will this manifold work with compounds since the exhaust ports are facing down instead of up?
Does this manifold support a EGT already or do we have to probe it ourselves? Thank you in advance.
Do they make it for the 8.3 engine
BD makes one for the ISC but not ISX.
Thanks for skipping showing us which direction that gasket is supposed to face.
Can you run the stock bolts with the old manifold on the new manifold with the spacers instead of using the Allen head Hardware that they give you
The hardware include with the manifold is the correct length given the thickness of the upgraded manifold. We suggest using the included hardware.
great information, planning on getting a 12 valve in a few months. should I expect basically the same info? I'd still check torque specs just in case, and know the 12 valve doesn't use manifold bolt spacers, but I'd imagine everything else would be the same information, right?
Wade, I love your videos. In this one you mentioned about the AC switch rubbing on the outflow boot and moving it so it's not a threat to rub a hole through the boot. I've tried turning the outflow pipe toward the passenger tire but it ends up turning back. How do you suggest getting that condition fixed? I am nervous about repostioning that AC line. Will I break it? What a bad place to put that AC line! Thanks for any help.
Where the pieces fit it to the center part of manifold does anything need to be put on the surfaces that slide in? Also does it leak any where they slide in it center part of manifold?
No, nothing needs to be added there. Once the manifold is installed, the heat from the engine will cause the manifold material to expand and create a seal.
If you're using manifold studs rather than the factory bolts, would you suggest double-nutting the stud into the head and threading it pretty deeply or just run them down finger tight?
Thanks for the great video!
I think double nutting the studs would be overkill but to each his own. The studs should only be finger tight in the block.
Would have been a tad easier/quicker with some ranching wrenches
Do you get it to operational temperature before you start the procedure in the morning after pb blaster soaking over the previous night?
I do suggest loosening the bolts with the motor warm. Once bolts are loose, let motor cool and continue with the install.
Can anyone please tell me if the exhaust manifold cracks happen to the 24valve 5.9 like the 12vavle 5.9?
Or are the cracks just happening on the 12valve 5.9’s ?
It happens on the 12 and 24 valves.
Is the fact that it cracks a symptom of an engineering error by Dodge or is it something else?
I mean if it’s that the head is expanding and contracting through heat / cool cycles is there another problem that’s occurring that causes the manifolds to crack?
The manifold cracking is a symptom
What’s the cause?
@@Chief6067 The manifold shrinks. The bigger issue is when it does it’ll eventually break the ears off the head.
might I ask where you get the tubing the manifold bolts go through to hold it to block my back two are missing aswell as the bolts Thanks
I hear they rattle out
and btw I can find a stud kit with new manifold but not the round sleeve
Give us a call. They are a Cummins part and we can get them for you no problem.
Does it make the truck louder?and will it breath easier?
Is does breath easier and it might change the sound a little but it wont be drastic.
Also, the truck will breather better overall, spool up should be quicker as well. Noise is minimal if not noticeable even on spool up.
Thoroughbred Diesel what does spoil up mean new to the channel TIA.
Spool
So where's way #2?
How can i get a thouroughbred diesel banner?
We do not provide banners because they are expensive.
"Also... as well"? Oops.
does this manifold flow more air than the stock ones ?
Yes, it does. Larger orifices and smoother flow transitions.
Thoroughbred Diesel Definitely not the holes are smaller
@@steve5912
It definitely flows better. I thought the same when I compared the outlet holes, however once installed my turbo spooled quicker, I made the same power but reached peak boost 150rpm sooner, snd EGT's were down 100°. 4 years and no cracks.
@@jasonyoung9559 Still could be performing better than it is. Waste of money
@@steve5912
Not for me. Not cracking, better spooling, cooler EGT's. Worth it.
10 metric 13 metric we know its metric when you say 10 or 13
what turbo is that?
Jason Blanc Holset HX35
Jason Blanc unless that truck was a 01 Automatic then it is a HY35. I'm pretty sure he mentioned it was a Manual though
ParoDoXz mine is an 01 6 spd
manual and has an hx35w doesn't have the nice v-band clamp just the stupid bell mouth down pipe onto the ball like ended elbow
Oh I see, yeah this one may be an automatic then (in the video) cause I didn't notice the infamous blue NSN tag on the turbo like all HX35s have. The HY35s don't have the blue tags
That is the stock Holset HX35.