🔥 Want an Industrial Injection PhatShaft Turbo? Order One Today! www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/brands/industrial-injection/ 🔥 Want the Exact Turbo In The Video? Order At the Link Below! www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/sbps6280/ ► Check Out Our Other Install Videos Here: th-cam.com/play/PLnxFEGfR52dhbBUrmZWnAuARh40MPZ-ED.html ► Check Out Our Other Dodge Cummins Videos Here: th-cam.com/play/PLnxFEGfR52dh92w_vvBrlc-xka0a9H9h1.html ★ Saving Diesel Lives! Check out our online store for performance products at: www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/ ☎ Give us a call for FREE ADVICE: (866) 737-4966 🎉 Please remember to SUBSCRIBE, LIKE, and COMMENT if you like our videos! It really does help us out! Thx for the support. th-cam.com/users/thoroughbreddiesel ❤️ Join Our Diesel Community ❤️ ● FACEBOOK: facebook.com/Thoroughbreddiesel ● TWITTER: twitter.com/TbredDiesel ● INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/tbreddiesel/ ● PINTEREST: www.pinterest.com/tbreddiesel/ ● BLOG: www.dieseladdict.com/ ● SNAPCHAT: tbred_diesel
Why wouldn’t the turbo manufacturer make the correct size outlet on the compressor housing? It’s clearly too big for the boot, you can even see the CAC clamp isn’t as close as it should be. Unless they suggest larger cac, cac piping and boots? Also you could index the compressor housing to line up better away from shock tower like the OEM turbo was. But I will say I really like your videos, you stay in a relatively good mood (at least on camera) lol. I will be purchasing many items from you guys, just on your character alone. All success.
I have the same truck only 3500. My turbo went out and was replaced. Since then , When I accelerate moderately to hard, The EGT shoots to 1300 or as high as 1400 and I need to back down, Which makes towing a pain. I tow most of the time. Any ideas on how to get my old truck back. It is pretty disappointing at present? Thanks
There is no way if I take all that stuff off with out doing a second Gen swap with the turbo in the center and you solve the heat problem for the back two cylinders and Sneed speed manifold and that is my dream and a Fleece turbo and Iam not looking for a big hp gain my truck is stock my big up grade so far is a in tank lift pump that has two gear motor pump and people don’t release that each gear motor on two separate circuit one is factory and the other I the Fleese wireing with it’s own wiring harness and has its own fuse and relay so if one pump goes out you can run of one motor and with two running you get 21 lbs and with one you get 10-11 lbs so to me it’s a win win situation. And when the first came out I was all over it and it makes a great lift pump and I have 3 fuel filters the first is a Baldwin 5 micron filter water separator with drain and after that I have a big cat filter with 2 micron and after that in factory location is a Baldwin 5 micron with drain and light that comes on when water in fuel cartridge and I have had this set up since it was 2 yrs old and I bought this truck new so I know what has been done .
How goes it, I just ordered a VP44 from ya all an I noticed on the removal of old VP44 when I got it out the keyway was coated with a clear coat of paint an when I removed it the clear coat all came off will that effect the timing of the new pump??? Any feed back will be very much appreciated, Thank you.
What fueling upgrades have been done to this truck. I would like to upgrade my turbo. I tow around 20 thousand on a regular basis. I have an early 04 sosge
Turbo. Turbsky. Turbolishious. 🤣 love you my man, I watch all these video's. Also I look at the stock cumins head and manifold on the 5.9 and 6.7 they leave so much on the table in performance / flow. Looking at the head to manifold junction I port the head to remove the flat bottom so it is round like the manifold then I port it to gasket size. I'll then open up the indirect ports on each outlet and knife the mergers. By doing this both valves flow near similar rates, then I port the inlets to Mantifold and go as deep as the drop off to main runner. Once all 6 are done I work from the t3 flange. I port the outer radius and widths them I bring the dividers from 1/4" to 1/8" and I also grind it down so it is 1/4" below flush for those turbos that are non divided this helps get the dividers further up out of the compression zone we're it funnels in to the turbine. After the manifold, the turbine housing I will start by port matching the gasket. Then porting /blending to the area's just out of sight. I then trench an area to the waste-gate where there is plenty of meat. Then I will port the waste-gate 6mm larger in the shape of a "D" so as to not cause a nasty bind up with the flapper catching the wider lip, For future compound upgrades this allows max flow to the second turbo once waste-gate is open. Allowing lower egts better flow and optimal performance Down low and up top With the head off I port the valve bowl area's especially the roof where the casting shrouds the valve guides. I unshroud the guides so as to improve flow and life expectancy of the guides due to soot and the inherent behavior this causes in the exhaust flow. Then I open up the bowl leading to the seat and I remove the inner angle on the valve job. The 35° valve seating surface will be untouched in the porting process. The machine shop will later add a deeper valve seat and make the final angle a 45° angle for the new valves for improved flow. After I get head back I will blend the new seats to the port. This lowers egts and maximizes flow and efficiency of the stock system around 43-55% and its practically free for anyone remotely good with there hands. This also opens up behind the valved 3-4mm "without going to a larger valve". And the steeper angle further aids in better flow characteristics. I will be uploading videos as I get my self setup for streaming. And flow checking. Also adding a cam the porting increases potential of the cam chosen.
🔥 Want an Industrial Injection PhatShaft Turbo? Order One Today!
www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/brands/industrial-injection/
🔥 Want the Exact Turbo In The Video? Order At the Link Below!
www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/sbps6280/
► Check Out Our Other Install Videos Here:
th-cam.com/play/PLnxFEGfR52dhbBUrmZWnAuARh40MPZ-ED.html
► Check Out Our Other Dodge Cummins Videos Here:
th-cam.com/play/PLnxFEGfR52dh92w_vvBrlc-xka0a9H9h1.html
★ Saving Diesel Lives! Check out our online store for performance products at:
www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/
☎ Give us a call for FREE ADVICE: (866) 737-4966
🎉 Please remember to SUBSCRIBE, LIKE, and COMMENT if you like our videos! It really does help us out! Thx for the support.
th-cam.com/users/thoroughbreddiesel
❤️ Join Our Diesel Community ❤️
● FACEBOOK: facebook.com/Thoroughbreddiesel
● TWITTER: twitter.com/TbredDiesel
● INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/tbreddiesel/
● PINTEREST: www.pinterest.com/tbreddiesel/
● BLOG: www.dieseladdict.com/
● SNAPCHAT: tbred_diesel
I didn’t realize third gen manifolds were divided. I thought they were all undivided
What turbo would you recommend for a stock towing application?
Stock turbo.
You do excellent videos, explaining everything in detail.
Thank you from the DIYers.
You are very welcome!
Factory stock turbo with dealer factory stock
How much does that turbo cost ?
Give us a call at 1-859-737-4966.
Informative video, I notice the manifold got changed during the video, broken stud eh 😉
Why wouldn’t the turbo manufacturer make the correct size outlet on the compressor housing? It’s clearly too big for the boot, you can even see the CAC clamp isn’t as close as it should be. Unless they suggest larger cac, cac piping and boots? Also you could index the compressor housing to line up better away from shock tower like the OEM turbo was. But I will say I really like your videos, you stay in a relatively good mood (at least on camera) lol. I will be purchasing many items from you guys, just on your character alone. All success.
Great tips. Thanks for the info. Glad we can help!
I have the same truck only 3500. My turbo went out and was replaced. Since then , When I accelerate moderately to hard, The EGT shoots to 1300 or as high as 1400 and I need to back down, Which makes towing a pain. I tow most of the time. Any ideas on how to get my old truck back. It is pretty disappointing at present? Thanks
What turbo did you replace it with? It sounds like you may have oversized the turbo and check for boost leaks.
There is no way if I take all that stuff off with out doing a second Gen swap with the turbo in the center and you solve the heat problem for the back two cylinders and Sneed speed manifold and that is my dream and a Fleece turbo and Iam not looking for a big hp gain my truck is stock my big up grade so far is a in tank lift pump that has two gear motor pump and people don’t release that each gear motor on two separate circuit one is factory and the other I the Fleese wireing with it’s own wiring harness and has its own fuse and relay so if one pump goes out you can run of one motor and with two running you get 21 lbs and with one you get 10-11 lbs so to me it’s a win win situation. And when the first came out I was all over it and it makes a great lift pump and I have 3 fuel filters the first is a Baldwin 5 micron filter water separator with drain and after that I have a big cat filter with 2 micron and after that in factory location is a Baldwin 5 micron with drain and light that comes on when water in fuel cartridge and I have had this set up since it was 2 yrs old and I bought this truck new so I know what has been done .
Thanks for the video! Any tips on testing the oil supply line before turning on the truck?
You're welcome! Before installing the turbo, you can crank over the engine and make sure you have good oil flow.
Was kinda hoping y’all had one of these install vids for a 2nd gen.
th-cam.com/video/xbxC2cpxf68/w-d-xo.html
It’s a turbo. Or a turbo charger. But no one calls it a “charger”. He says “charger” I’m looking for a CAC or intercooler.
😂
How goes it, I just ordered a VP44 from ya all an I noticed on the removal of old VP44 when I got it out the keyway was coated with a clear coat of paint an when I removed it the clear coat all came off will that effect the timing of the new pump??? Any feed back will be very much appreciated, Thank you.
No it won’t.
The paint coming off the key will not affect anything, just make sure to get your key lined up correctly!
Please list the part number for the Turbo to Exhaust Elbow clamp and the Exhaust Elbow to down-pipe clamp. Thx
Haha I can relate to the fender well comment. I always whine about it but it’s pretty easy
I can't find the video on bypassing the coolant line behind the turbo
Thanks you for that’s great information
I now have a rust free ‘94 12v 🙌🏻🙌🏻
6:50 neat trick with the heel bar. Did the same on John Deere backhoe
What fueling upgrades have been done to this truck. I would like to upgrade my turbo. I tow around 20 thousand on a regular basis. I have an early 04 sosge
None. Fueling is stock. If we stick with this turbo then we will probably change the tuning and possibly move to a 50HP injector.
Hi there nice video. I have a question is it possible to install this turbo on a Chevy small block? Thank you!!
Thank you. It would depends on the mods you have to the engine if it can support it.
Turbo. Turbsky. Turbolishious. 🤣 love you my man, I watch all these video's.
Also I look at the stock cumins head and manifold on the 5.9 and 6.7 they leave so much on the table in performance / flow. Looking at the head to manifold junction I port the head to remove the flat bottom so it is round like the manifold then I port it to gasket size. I'll then open up the indirect ports on each outlet and knife the mergers. By doing this both valves flow near similar rates, then I port the inlets to Mantifold and go as deep as the drop off to main runner. Once all 6 are done I work from the t3 flange. I port the outer radius and widths them I bring the dividers from 1/4" to 1/8" and I also grind it down so it is 1/4" below flush for those turbos that are non divided this helps get the dividers further up out of the compression zone we're it funnels in to the turbine.
After the manifold, the turbine housing I will start by port matching the gasket. Then porting /blending to the area's just out of sight. I then trench an area to the waste-gate where there is plenty of meat. Then I will port the waste-gate 6mm larger in the shape of a "D" so as to not cause a nasty bind up with the flapper catching the wider lip, For future compound upgrades this allows max flow to the second turbo once waste-gate is open. Allowing lower egts better flow and optimal performance Down low and up top
With the head off I port the valve bowl area's especially the roof where the casting shrouds the valve guides. I unshroud the guides so as to improve flow and life expectancy of the guides due to soot and the inherent behavior this causes in the exhaust flow. Then I open up the bowl leading to the seat and I remove the inner angle on the valve job. The 35° valve seating surface will be untouched in the porting process. The machine shop will later add a deeper valve seat and make the final angle a 45° angle for the new valves for improved flow. After I get head back I will blend the new seats to the port.
This lowers egts and maximizes flow and efficiency of the stock system around 43-55% and its practically free for anyone remotely good with there hands. This also opens up behind the valved 3-4mm "without going to a larger valve".
And the steeper angle further aids in better flow characteristics.
I will be uploading videos as I get my self setup for streaming. And flow checking.
Also adding a cam the porting increases potential of the cam chosen.
4k for 10 god damned horsepower? christ
Keep upgrading all that stuff on that engine it won't last as long or run as good as it would as in stock form is proven fact