I have had 2 different 2023 F250’s with rear differential failure back to back. The first was a standard F250 with the smaller axle. Failed at 350 miles. The dealer bought it back. The replacement truck for that one was a F250 with the high capacity axle package giving it the 11.6. It failed at 10500 miles. I followed the book and didn’t tow for 1000 miles for the break in. I only tow a 6000 pound Airstream. The dealer had my truck for 67 days waiting for the new axle assembly from Ford. Just completed the buy back last week. Currently looking for a new truck but all the brands seem to be junk.
Not over filled or under filled. Froth indicates water ingestion. Make sure the vent tube is routed up in the frame. The wear on the pinion head bearing race is indicative of metal contamination. When the tech drained the lube did they save it? Message me if you want to learn more.
@@mattwilliams7102 their conclusion was metal contamination it was inspected by ford. Ford replaced the axle completely no charge and the engineers came out to study the failure. Hopefully others will get quick resolution because they admitted its a known issue. They said the housing wasnt properly cleaned after machining before it was built
Mine had all the bearings and seals replaced at 900 miles. They said it did have metal in the fluid. They didnt do anything else. It was making a whirling sound wich is what led me to take it in. Stopped the whirling noise after the bearings got done but now I'm starting to here a whining sounds about 1500 miles later. I'm thinking it's the gears this time
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 they are now saying they are under filled from the factory and to get the correct fill level you don't use the fill plug you remove the eld connector
Regarding the worse after the rebuild. If they didn't remove the pinion gear, clean and replace those bearings at the same time it was guaranteed to fail. Also some gears are matched sets, you can't replace just the ring gear you have replace pinion as well.
@@chimrichalds1422 seams to be. Makes me think they didnt set backlash right. But with those fancy adjusters like a 14 bolt how could that be wrong. They said there were alot of chips and the official ford determination was it wasnt cleaned properly when it was put together. But i dont understand why all new parts didn’t fix it
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 do you know if they pulled the bearings in the axle tubes and cleaned them out as well? Contamination gets in there too. Or it could be the tech just didn't know how to setup an axle correctly.
I couldnt do the work though considering how clean the outside is my bet is has a gasket not rtv and usually you can but shouldn’t re use axle cover gaskets. No need to be sorry glad you commented
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 terrible whirling noise like old brakes dragging. My 5th wheel prep system is off too. I can't get my 5th wheel base to set in the pucks. Right rear puck is 1/4 inch low and the spacing is off. Many guys with 3/2024 builds are having this issue
@@mikehigham9552 I have that noise in my axle but it isn't terrible just over 5 mph until the truck makes more noise to cover it. I haven't yet towed but have 11K on it. Do you have the TSB #?
No lol. If i would have bought the truck at the same dealer, yes i would have but i like the service department at this specific dealer and did not buy the truck there
The amount of 10.5 and 11.5 axles fail on chevy and dodge for the last 20 years, we chock it up to crap happens. All of my friends have broken at least one on their truck(s)
@@Alaska610ish i would say always buy a vehicle for the sum of all its parts, dealer experience and what discounts/ deal you can get. All three brands make good stuff and competitive. Each brand seams to stand out in a few places. Usually ford stood out in rock solid axle reliability. But i didnt realize i had a first year front and rear axle. The thing is the service department i use is amazing and i trust them to fix it
@@Alaska610ish if you are buying new the 2024 plus duramax is an incredible product. Based on one test drive. Who knows how they will be in 200k miles. Axles and t case should be carry over. I would for sure buy a 7.3 over 6.6 gas though.
@@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 Well my 2020 2500HD LTZ L5P had 52 codes over it's life of 61k miles before I dumped it. Left me stranded in 7 states. Had to cancel multiple camping trips. I won't be back to Chevrolet products, none of them.
I've heard some squeaking at my rear axle. I figured it was the brakes. How do you know if you have the 11.6 axle? Mytruck is a 23 F350 6.7L . with 7k miles on it.
What does the code tape on the right axle tube say? If the number starts with S45… it is a 10.5” if it starts with S46… it is a 11.6”. The 10.5” is carry over. The 11.6” is next gen. The differences are size of gear set (obviously) and how the gear set (ring and pinion) is manufactured.
hope rear end was covered by warranty or they ripped you off,,way too much wrong with a 1 year old truck,,who changes the ring and not the pinion? amateur hr
Fully under warranty. Didnt pay a dime for all repairs. I must have misspoke in there i thought i said ring and pinion and carrier. It was both changed at once and it didnt net any improvement. Which is weird you would think new bearings and parts would fix the issue
I can promise it isnt leaking. All i know is i think im going to check and replace fluid on all new vehicle purchases from now on. Does the witness mark of the fluid level look low you to in the picture of the axle cover?
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 No, I don't think it was. If it was low, that would ultimately be a dealer failure. They are the last line of defense for that type of thing. They should inspect all fluid levels prior to delivery. I'm with you, though, I like to check everything when I buy a new vehicle. Ultimately, nobody cares about your truck more than you do.
Those those single electronic disconnect on a chevy have given me way more problems than the ford ones have had over the years, but i still resent vacuum
The first thing that I did with my SD was swap the hubs for Warn manual hubs. They changed sometime in 23/24 to a single side disconnect on all the non-tremors. The other side is locked which means that they are relying on the open diff (not really a disconnect).
The GM way is to leave the cv axles connected and to have a disconnect on the (right) long shaft side that lets the ring gear&pinion stop and on only the axle and spider gears in differential turn. RAM had no diconnect for years but about 10 years back they went with the GM style. Ford for 23 1/2 went to one side vacuum hub. I'm only discussing HD pickups.
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I have had 2 different 2023 F250’s with rear differential failure back to back. The first was a standard F250 with the smaller axle. Failed at 350 miles. The dealer bought it back. The replacement truck for that one was a F250 with the high capacity axle package giving it the 11.6. It failed at 10500 miles. I followed the book and didn’t tow for 1000 miles for the break in. I only tow a 6000 pound Airstream. The dealer had my truck for 67 days waiting for the new axle assembly from Ford. Just completed the buy back last week. Currently looking for a new truck but all the brands seem to be junk.
Not over filled or under filled. Froth indicates water ingestion. Make sure the vent tube is routed up in the frame. The wear on the pinion head bearing race is indicative of metal contamination. When the tech drained the lube did they save it? Message me if you want to learn more.
@@mattwilliams7102 their conclusion was metal contamination it was inspected by ford. Ford replaced the axle completely no charge and the engineers came out to study the failure. Hopefully others will get quick resolution because they admitted its a known issue.
They said the housing wasnt properly cleaned after machining before it was built
Mine had all the bearings and seals replaced at 900 miles. They said it did have metal in the fluid. They didnt do anything else. It was making a whirling sound wich is what led me to take it in. Stopped the whirling noise after the bearings got done but now I'm starting to here a whining sounds about 1500 miles later. I'm thinking it's the gears this time
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 they are now saying they are under filled from the factory and to get the correct fill level you don't use the fill plug you remove the eld connector
@@mikehigham9552 really thats interesting
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 the 4.30 calls for 4.12qt now
aftermarket axle rebuilders are not recommending synthetic oils any longer. GL5 or GL6 mineral oil is preferred
I dont actually know what the stock oil would have been for ford i will look that up
Not down here in Louisiana where mid-day the humidity levels get 93-96%. Too much moisture in the air for non-synthetic oils they will get milky.
@@ShelbyvsViper I was referring to Jasper.
What is the TSB number for the squeaking rear end?
Regarding the worse after the rebuild. If they didn't remove the pinion gear, clean and replace those bearings at the same time it was guaranteed to fail. Also some gears are matched sets, you can't replace just the ring gear you have replace pinion as well.
They did all that. Full rebuild new ring gear pinion and carrier.
Between you and me i find it very weird it was “worse” after a rebuild. Thats what they told me and thats what the paperwork says
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 yeah that's really strange, sounds like they replaced everything. At least you got it fixed now.
@@chimrichalds1422 seams to be. Makes me think they didnt set backlash right. But with those fancy adjusters like a 14 bolt how could that be wrong.
They said there were alot of chips and the official ford determination was it wasnt cleaned properly when it was put together. But i dont understand why all new parts didn’t fix it
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 do you know if they pulled the bearings in the axle tubes and cleaned them out as well? Contamination gets in there too. Or it could be the tech just didn't know how to setup an axle correctly.
Do you know the TSB number for this so I can see if my truck falls under it? Thanks
@@revest100 ill look on my paperwork when i get to my truck. Not off hand
sorry about this. did you notice if the rear axle cover had a re-usable gasket on it from the factory?
I couldnt do the work though considering how clean the outside is my bet is has a gasket not rtv and usually you can but shouldn’t re use axle cover gaskets.
No need to be sorry glad you commented
It's a gasket wouldn't reuse it but a couple times at most though.
Waiting for my 11.6 rear in my 2024 with 900 miles to be rebuilt now.
Wow thats early. Total failure or just noises?
Also thanks for confirming it isnt only 2023 axles with a problem.
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 terrible whirling noise like old brakes dragging. My 5th wheel prep system is off too. I can't get my 5th wheel base to set in the pucks. Right rear puck is 1/4 inch low and the spacing is off. Many guys with 3/2024 builds are having this issue
@@mikehigham9552 wow that sucks!
@@mikehigham9552 I have that noise in my axle but it isn't terrible just over 5 mph until the truck makes more noise to cover it. I haven't yet towed but have 11K on it. Do you have the TSB #?
Did Ford pony up with a loaner for the 3 weeks they had your truck? That’s a long time for a rear end rebuild or replacement.
No lol. If i would have bought the truck at the same dealer, yes i would have but i like the service department at this specific dealer and did not buy the truck there
Built Ford tough
The amount of 10.5 and 11.5 axles fail on chevy and dodge for the last 20 years, we chock it up to crap happens. All of my friends have broken at least one on their truck(s)
Overfilled.
New stuff is crap
Maybe Ford will read this….. I don’t trust Ford and I want a F-350, but will buy a GMC 3500 4x4.
@@Alaska610ish i would say always buy a vehicle for the sum of all its parts, dealer experience and what discounts/ deal you can get. All three brands make good stuff and competitive. Each brand seams to stand out in a few places. Usually ford stood out in rock solid axle reliability. But i didnt realize i had a first year front and rear axle. The thing is the service department i use is amazing and i trust them to fix it
@@Alaska610ish if you are buying new the 2024 plus duramax is an incredible product. Based on one test drive. Who knows how they will be in 200k miles. Axles and t case should be carry over.
I would for sure buy a 7.3 over 6.6 gas though.
@@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 Well my 2020 2500HD LTZ L5P had 52 codes over it's life of 61k miles before I dumped it. Left me stranded in 7 states. Had to cancel multiple camping trips. I won't be back to Chevrolet products, none of them.
I've heard some squeaking at my rear axle. I figured it was the brakes. How do you know if you have the 11.6 axle? Mytruck is a 23 F350 6.7L . with 7k miles on it.
You most likely have an 11.6. Go count your axle cover bolts. If its 16 than its an 11.6
What does the code tape on the right axle tube say? If the number starts with S45… it is a 10.5” if it starts with S46… it is a 11.6”. The 10.5” is carry over. The 11.6” is next gen. The differences are size of gear set (obviously) and how the gear set (ring and pinion) is manufactured.
hope rear end was covered by warranty or they ripped you off,,way too much wrong with a 1 year old truck,,who changes the ring and not the pinion? amateur hr
Fully under warranty. Didnt pay a dime for all repairs.
I must have misspoke in there i thought i said ring and pinion and carrier.
It was both changed at once and it didnt net any improvement. Which is weird you would think new bearings and parts would fix the issue
Low fluid should have been caught during the dealers PDI
I can promise it isnt leaking. All i know is i think im going to check and replace fluid on all new vehicle purchases from now on. Does the witness mark of the fluid level look low you to in the picture of the axle cover?
@greatlakespowerstrokefx4 No, I don't think it was. If it was low, that would ultimately be a dealer failure. They are the last line of defense for that type of thing. They should inspect all fluid levels prior to delivery. I'm with you, though, I like to check everything when I buy a new vehicle. Ultimately, nobody cares about your truck more than you do.
Pdi is just apply 20k of crap you didn't want...
@@cstgx i didnt buy it from the same dealer i use for service.
@@breckfreeride pdi is pre delivery inspection.
Vacuum?? Ha, my 04 Silverado has electronic actuators for the hubs....idk wtf Ford is doing over there.
They have always been vacuum and yes its a pain in the ass.
Those those single electronic disconnect on a chevy have given me way more problems than the ford ones have had over the years, but i still resent vacuum
The first thing that I did with my SD was swap the hubs for Warn manual hubs. They changed sometime in 23/24 to a single side disconnect on all the non-tremors. The other side is locked which means that they are relying on the open diff (not really a disconnect).
The GM way is to leave the cv axles connected and to have a disconnect on the (right) long shaft side that lets the ring gear&pinion stop and on only the axle and spider gears in differential turn. RAM had no diconnect for years but about 10 years back they went with the GM style. Ford for 23 1/2 went to one side vacuum hub. I'm only discussing HD pickups.