Thank you for the precise workmanship and specifications on the complete removal and installation even my manual doesn't explain it like I wanted until I found your work. Thank you so much. And may GOD continue to BLESS you
Just wanted to add this, i had made the mistake a few years back by not packing these bearings, thinking that the differential gear oil would keep them lubed, and i ended up replacing the entire axle a few months later as the bearings overheated, siezed and spun on the ends of the axle, ruining the whole thing. Needless to say, i learned my lesson on that! Quick side note, the slighly narrower cab/chassis axle fits fine if u remove the old spring perches and weld new ones in the proper location...
The end result is a nut locking mechanism, but the setup is also designed around ratcheting to the point of lockup and backing off a few clicks. A ratcheting nut takes up less real estate on the spindle allowing the outer bearing to be closer to the end of a wheel hub than what a double nut setup will allow.
What would be the ill effects of over tightening or improper torque procedure for the spindle nut? Reason I ask is because I did this service on my SRW F250 Sterling 10.5 about a year ago. Whereas the torque specs are slightly different for mine, the concept is the same as it's that same style ratcheting nut. But now when I was doing a brake job, I notice the hubs are stiff as hell. I certainly can't turn them without the use of a pry bar wedged between the lug bolts. Let me mention, I have not noticed any drive-ability issues. Noises, clunks, grinding, etc. Any suggestion on what to do next?
First thing to do is make sure there is no brake drag, including park brake shoes. Once that is confirmed, unbolt the axle shafts to confirm drag is not coming from the differential. Improper procedures will result in premature bearing wear or complete failure. Once you isolate the friction source, that will determine the repair procedure.
@@TorqueKingTV Thank you for the response. It is not brake drag as I have not only the calipers off, but the rotors too. I will pull off the shafts next and test. If there is still tightness at that point, it's the spindle nut? But if it frees up then it's an issue inside the differential? I have that correct?
@@DieselMike The ratcheting nut shouldn't let preload get so tight that you need a pry bar to rotate the wheel, but it could do some weird stuff to bearings over time. If resistance is still local to the wheel after pulling shafts, it is definitely time for bearings. If they free up without shafts, its time to pop the differential open.
If it's the ratcheting style nut, nearly identical procedure. If it's a 1-piece Nyloc, its a little different. Exact procedure can be found on the FordServiceInfo website or a factory manual from Bishko. Parts: torqueking.com/category/spindles-1996-2000-e350-dana-80r/
I have a single rear wheel drive Dana 80 on my 99 1/2 f250 I was told on the tag 373 gears and that it was a one ton Axle my question is when I seen you pull disk/drum off and apart it looked like mine ? Is it possible to make mine a dual wheel set up. I would appreciate an answer it looks like I would need the dual drum/disk to bolt to my hub I appreciate the information.
Ford only uses a Dana 80 in DRW applications... Single wheel was limited to Dana 60 and 70, but Sterling axles are more common. Generally speaking, a SRW uses a larger inner wheel bearing and that limits hub interchangeability. We do have some spacer adapters available for this conversion but we need to verify which axle it is. Send us axle pictures to sales@torqueking.com and we can evaluate your options.
Exactly what I was looking for.. thanks. Very good explanation and professional..
Thank you for the precise workmanship and specifications on the complete removal and installation even my manual doesn't explain it like I wanted until I found your work. Thank you so much. And may GOD continue to BLESS you
Nice video. You have all information about this job. Thank you for give your knowledge .
Thank you so much,for teaching r....from Mexico
Just wanted to add this, i had made the mistake a few years back by not packing these bearings, thinking that the differential gear oil would keep them lubed, and i ended up replacing the entire axle a few months later as the bearings overheated, siezed and spun on the ends of the axle, ruining the whole thing. Needless to say, i learned my lesson on that! Quick side note, the slighly narrower cab/chassis axle fits fine if u remove the old spring perches and weld new ones in the proper location...
Really?! Are you sure you didn't over torque the bearings? 🤔
Great video.
Thank you for saying the name size of the spindle nut nobody else did
Great video! Thanks!
Great content, thanks...
9/12/24 Excellent video
Awesome. What’s the bearing number please inner and. Outer. Please
They can be found on this page torqueking.com/category/wheel-bearings-seals-1999-2008-f53-dana-80r/#y=1014
Can I use the Ford bearing to pack the bearing before install. According to the parts department at Ford.
Bearings should be packed with grease prior to install.
What is the point of the ratcheting mechanism of the spindle/hub nut?
The end result is a nut locking mechanism, but the setup is also designed around ratcheting to the point of lockup and backing off a few clicks.
A ratcheting nut takes up less real estate on the spindle allowing the outer bearing to be closer to the end of a wheel hub than what a double nut setup will allow.
Rare emergency brake assembly
My f350 has a c clip, do you have a video like that?
A C clip on each shaft inside the differential like a F150? We do not... Ford mostly used this ratchet style in F250-F350, can you describe it better?
What head size are the rotor to hub ex torx bolts??
You can use 14mm 6 point socket
I have a 1999 F-550 do you know if a 2005 F-550 rear end will bolt up into the 1999 ?
What would be the ill effects of over tightening or improper torque procedure for the spindle nut? Reason I ask is because I did this service on my SRW F250 Sterling 10.5 about a year ago. Whereas the torque specs are slightly different for mine, the concept is the same as it's that same style ratcheting nut. But now when I was doing a brake job, I notice the hubs are stiff as hell. I certainly can't turn them without the use of a pry bar wedged between the lug bolts. Let me mention, I have not noticed any drive-ability issues. Noises, clunks, grinding, etc. Any suggestion on what to do next?
First thing to do is make sure there is no brake drag, including park brake shoes. Once that is confirmed, unbolt the axle shafts to confirm drag is not coming from the differential.
Improper procedures will result in premature bearing wear or complete failure. Once you isolate the friction source, that will determine the repair procedure.
@@TorqueKingTV Thank you for the response. It is not brake drag as I have not only the calipers off, but the rotors too. I will pull off the shafts next and test. If there is still tightness at that point, it's the spindle nut? But if it frees up then it's an issue inside the differential? I have that correct?
@@DieselMike The ratcheting nut shouldn't let preload get so tight that you need a pry bar to rotate the wheel, but it could do some weird stuff to bearings over time.
If resistance is still local to the wheel after pulling shafts, it is definitely time for bearings. If they free up without shafts, its time to pop the differential open.
@@TorqueKingTV This is very helpful information. Thank You.
Las dos tuercas son roscas derechas
Do you have any similar videos on the dana 135 in the f550s?
I believe we have published the S110, which is similar. We have not acquired larger axles for video yet.
How close is this procedure to a 1998 ford Superdry e-350 class-c motorhome dually. Cant find shit for torque specs...
If it's the ratcheting style nut, nearly identical procedure. If it's a 1-piece Nyloc, its a little different.
Exact procedure can be found on the FordServiceInfo website or a factory manual from Bishko.
Parts: torqueking.com/category/spindles-1996-2000-e350-dana-80r/
Where can I find retention tool
torqueking.com/category/tools-1999-2016-f350-dana-80r/
I have a single rear wheel drive Dana 80 on my 99 1/2 f250 I was told on the tag 373 gears and that it was a one ton Axle my question is when I seen you pull disk/drum off and apart it looked like mine ? Is it possible to make mine a dual wheel set up. I would appreciate an answer it looks like I would need the dual drum/disk to bolt to my hub I appreciate the information.
Ford only uses a Dana 80 in DRW applications... Single wheel was limited to Dana 60 and 70, but Sterling axles are more common. Generally speaking, a SRW uses a larger inner wheel bearing and that limits hub interchangeability. We do have some spacer adapters available for this conversion but we need to verify which axle it is.
Send us axle pictures to sales@torqueking.com and we can evaluate your options.
how do you know if your rear is a dana 80?
An 80 cover is taller than it is wide. Also, it will have a numerical 6 or 7 digit number on a build tag with no letters.
@@TorqueKingTV 606728 ? also has 41-10 4.10 i jus dont want to order wrong parts
@@puch7261 Sorry for the delayed reply, that should be a 606728-2 (indicating 4.10) with factory Trac Lok limited slip.