Top 10: #1: AOS/Catch Can (Pref AOS) #2: Cobb AP, CAI w/ OTS Map (If you can swing it go pro-tune) [Stage 1] #3: Fuel Pump (Pref E85 compatible for later) #4: Tires (Wheels too if you can) The stock rim size if not bad and will keep you on the road. Tires will change the driveability of the car drastically. #5: Charge Pipe & Recirc Valve (No tune needed) #6: J-pipe, Mid Pipe, CBE and EBC(Tune Needed) #7: TGV/EGR deletes, and intercooler (Tune Needed) [Pref get intake valves cleaned while TGV's are removed] #8: Brakes. Whether you change rotors and/or pads you will need to stop #9: FlexFuel Kit (Tuen needed. Be prepared to get HPFP as well. Stock will crap out eventually) #10: Aesthetics. (Wheels, coil-overs, engine dress up, body kit, ) I recommend doing it this way. It's basically Stage 1 - 3. From each stage, you will have to get a tune so my advice is to save the money for the stage 3 kit and do it all at once. That way you only pay for one tune or set of dyno runs. #9 is not really necessary, but it will give you a huge boost in power. I'm not running a flex-fuel kit atm, plus that is a completely separate tune. I put wheels and coil overs last because unless you are running high numbers you won't need tires wider than 245 and the stock suspension is pretty damn good. If you are wanting to close up the fender well gap then larger wheels will do just that. This is what I did, minus the FF kit.
@@maverrpl I'm not gonna say you're not right, but I have yet to hear of an OTS blowing someone's engine. If so, I'm sure I would have read about it on NASIOC. Again, not saying it doesn't happen, I just have not hear of it.
I agree with the exhaust being the first. I just bought a 2021 sport, and I'd love to be able to turn my music up and still hear my exhaust. But unfortunately stock its one or the other lol.
@Big Ballah intake and exhaust r almost like cosmetic upgrades - they add noises. Accessport and engine mods, E85, etc. r the way to go for performance
How I look at it you have two routes. Show or go. I did combination but I’ve ended up upgrading wheels last, something i should’ve done along time ago. So I’d say wheels should be at top of your list imo
@@barongaming9109 If you're going with MAP catless j pipe, I believe they provide you with a stg 2 tune along with your purchase. Once you have it flashed onto your car after installation, everything should be good to go.
Hey I just bought a 2018 wrx with 11,000 miles. I got the 7 year extended warranty for an extra 3000 dollars. Good or bad idea? Let me know your thoughts
Hey I just want to give you my input on the extended warranty as I was in the same boat as you. I bought a 2018 Wrx with 24,000 miles and bought a 7 year 70,000 mile extended warranty for my car but I ended up cancelling it because I just didn’t think it was worth the 3,000 I paid for it. The car already comes with factory warranty that’s pretty good. It comes with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty that’s bumper to bumper and then you have a 5 year 60,000 mile warranty which is the power train , which covers your engine, transmission, drivetrain and stuff like that. So I just think it’s a personal preference but to me I just didn’t think it was worth an extra 3,000 dollars for the extended warranty when the factory warranty is good enough. And besides I’m sure you’ll void your warranty anyways by modding your car! Hope this helps you
i love your vids ryan very in depth. i was wondering when u where talking about the castles Jpipe and intake did u get a pro tune or was it something that your access port did for you? I am still trying to understand what the access port does for the car.
Access port runs basic COBB tunes, off the shelf. Comes with the access port and is a base for stage 1 or stage 2. Stage 1 is an intake and Cobb stage 1 map, stage 2 is downpipe and intake with Cobb stage 2 map. Ryan got MAPerformance’s stage 2 downloaded from his computer into his access port to run it on his car. No dyno-tune, just etune. I recommend a dyno-tune if you can get it, but if not go with an etune it’s the best option. IF YOU RUN A CATLESS/CATTED DOWNPIPE AND AN INTAKE WITH THE COBB STAGE 2 TUNE OFF ACCESSPORT, you will not gain any excess power, and your car will not run how it’s “supposed” to as it is a base map, not a full tune.
Hey every1, i have a question. Im new to the WRX world. Just got a 2015 wrx, i had a 2011 impreza 2.5i hatchback and that got me itching lol. So, i do have many questions but i will keeo this 1 about the @ 4:37 when hes talking about cat and catless. Dont we need those for emissions and what about engine lights coming on? Im learning and haply to be in the wrx world. Thanks in advance every1!
1.44 is usually nothing to be concerned. When you get to like 2-3 or it's really consistent then consider checking everything over. Usually boost leaks or a bad sensor. can't figure it out? Sell the car lol
These cars notoriously over compensate for knock like he said and knock feedback under 2 is pretty regular just keep an eye out for how often it happens or if it ever jumps to 2-3+ also be aware OTS tunes knock worse than a custom tune
What up Ryan! Recently went stage 1+ with the ots tune from cobb 91 oct big sf intake. I’m starting to get knock when I hit boost from like -1.41 to -5.66. What can I do to fix this?? Only have had the tune for about 2 days
If you can get 93oct that would help. You really do not want to boost with knock. If you are getting knock I would suggest getting a pro-tune. There are a bunch of e-tuners out there and they are much cheaper than an engine rebuild. If you don't have the money then please, go back to the stock intake until you do.
Catback would definitely not be #1, a short throw shifter, swaybars, oil separator then accessport as a altogether first mod. Lighter wheels maybe with some sticker tires a little further down the line
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Top 5 Mods for a 2018 Outback
1. Full tank of gas
2. A 5 day cooler
3. Sleeping bag
4. Flash drive of 28 hrs tunes
5. Open road
I'm 2018 Premium stage 3, stock catback, stock wheels and tires for summer, 2017 wheels for winter. Fast but less attention from the cops
He’s got a point
Top 10:
#1: AOS/Catch Can (Pref AOS)
#2: Cobb AP, CAI w/ OTS Map (If you can swing it go pro-tune) [Stage 1]
#3: Fuel Pump (Pref E85 compatible for later)
#4: Tires (Wheels too if you can) The stock rim size if not bad and will keep you on the road. Tires will change the driveability of the car drastically.
#5: Charge Pipe & Recirc Valve (No tune needed)
#6: J-pipe, Mid Pipe, CBE and EBC(Tune Needed)
#7: TGV/EGR deletes, and intercooler (Tune Needed) [Pref get intake valves cleaned while TGV's are removed]
#8: Brakes. Whether you change rotors and/or pads you will need to stop
#9: FlexFuel Kit (Tuen needed. Be prepared to get HPFP as well. Stock will crap out eventually)
#10: Aesthetics. (Wheels, coil-overs, engine dress up, body kit, )
I recommend doing it this way. It's basically Stage 1 - 3. From each stage, you will have to get a tune so my advice is to save the money for the stage 3 kit and do it all at once. That way you only pay for one tune or set of dyno runs. #9 is not really necessary, but it will give you a huge boost in power. I'm not running a flex-fuel kit atm, plus that is a completely separate tune. I put wheels and coil overs last because unless you are running high numbers you won't need tires wider than 245 and the stock suspension is pretty damn good. If you are wanting to close up the fender well gap then larger wheels will do just that. This is what I did, minus the FF kit.
Nice write up💯
never go OTS map! NEVER! That's why people blow their engines up... OTS maps are trash. Always get it pro tuned!
@@maverrpl I'm not gonna say you're not right, but I have yet to hear of an OTS blowing someone's engine. If so, I'm sure I would have read about it on NASIOC. Again, not saying it doesn't happen, I just have not hear of it.
Night and Day the most 2015 WRX-looking guy I’ve see
I agree with the exhaust being the first. I just bought a 2021 sport, and I'd love to be able to turn my music up and still hear my exhaust. But unfortunately stock its one or the other lol.
These sound much better in person.
Agree
I just bought a Subaru WRX and this helped a lot !
Smashed it again Ryan. Car looks and sounds better every video. POV cam works great. Great job Ryan 💯💯💯💯🤘🤘🤘
Thank you. I liked the POV
What I always do is tint my windows first even though I don’t consider it a mod
Dude, I recognize all of the area you are driving in. I got my wrx dyno tuned in Martinsville at Fathouse Fabrications!
and the cobb accesport? I think that should be the first mod
Yea. I completely forgot to mention that. 💯
Big Ballah well you need an accessport to tune when you install the intake lol. So AP is yet again still first, stock tune is trash anyway
tyler walls not necessarily, the ets intake does not require a tune. Most do require a tune though.
Shawn Gomez have fun w that 🤕 just mod your car the right way lol
@Big Ballah intake and exhaust r almost like cosmetic upgrades - they add noises. Accessport and engine mods, E85, etc. r the way to go for performance
Awesome car Ryan can’t wait to have my sti like your wrx
Thanks
More videos do a track day with your buddy in the black wrx
How I look at it you have two routes. Show or go. I did combination but I’ve ended up upgrading wheels last, something i should’ve done along time ago. So I’d say wheels should be at top of your list imo
Access port with flex fuel should be your first mod.
Awesome and fully detailed video, I always watch your videos and enjoy them. Keep the good work up man.
I do have a question tho, If I go catless I suppose the engine light goes on, how do I het rid of it? Do I need the e-tune to get it off?
@@barongaming9109 If you're going with MAP catless j pipe, I believe they provide you with a stg 2 tune along with your purchase. Once you have it flashed onto your car after installation, everything should be good to go.
@@baruwrxyz9772 Thank you man, now I know.
Your top makes perfect sense...
Brooooo, those rims are clean! What rims are those?
They look like avid 1 av6's
Hey I just bought a 2018 wrx with 11,000 miles. I got the 7 year extended warranty for an extra 3000 dollars. Good or bad idea? Let me know your thoughts
Hey I just want to give you my input on the extended warranty as I was in the same boat as you. I bought a 2018 Wrx with 24,000 miles and bought a 7 year 70,000 mile extended warranty for my car but I ended up cancelling it because I just didn’t think it was worth the 3,000 I paid for it. The car already comes with factory warranty that’s pretty good. It comes with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty that’s bumper to bumper and then you have a 5 year 60,000 mile warranty which is the power train , which covers your engine, transmission, drivetrain and stuff like that. So I just think it’s a personal preference but to me I just didn’t think it was worth an extra 3,000 dollars for the extended warranty when the factory warranty is good enough. And besides I’m sure you’ll void your warranty anyways by modding your car! Hope this helps you
i love your vids ryan very in depth. i was wondering when u where talking about the castles Jpipe and intake did u get a pro tune or was it something that your access port did for you? I am still trying to understand what the access port does for the car.
Melon Lord i have the same question, once you put full exhaust and intake do you need a tune?
Access port runs basic COBB tunes, off the shelf. Comes with the access port and is a base for stage 1 or stage 2. Stage 1 is an intake and Cobb stage 1 map, stage 2 is downpipe and intake with Cobb stage 2 map. Ryan got MAPerformance’s stage 2 downloaded from his computer into his access port to run it on his car. No dyno-tune, just etune. I recommend a dyno-tune if you can get it, but if not go with an etune it’s the best option. IF YOU RUN A CATLESS/CATTED DOWNPIPE AND AN INTAKE WITH THE COBB STAGE 2 TUNE OFF ACCESSPORT, you will not gain any excess power, and your car will not run how it’s “supposed” to as it is a base map, not a full tune.
Your subaru so beautiful
Thank you 💯
Nice choices!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Not to bad. Thanks
So nice
Hey every1, i have a question. Im new to the WRX world. Just got a 2015 wrx, i had a 2011 impreza 2.5i hatchback and that got me itching lol. So, i do have many questions but i will keeo this 1 about the @ 4:37 when hes talking about cat and catless. Dont we need those for emissions and what about engine lights coming on?
Im learning and haply to be in the wrx world. Thanks in advance every1!
what bpv are you using?
with all the power mods how do the stock brakes feel?
The stock brakes even without being upgraded work great. I'm 85 hp over stock and have no issues.
If you are trying for mpg what do you get with all your mods?
Do you pass your emissions test with this setup? Looking to upgrade my car but not sure if they will result in me failing the test.
I dont have emission where I live
Do a video for the a o seporator!
How much everyone paying for these cobb access ports
im getting concerned about feedb knocks vs Dam readings , my ecu has to correct it 1.44
1.44 is usually nothing to be concerned. When you get to like 2-3 or it's really consistent then consider checking everything over. Usually boost leaks or a bad sensor. can't figure it out? Sell the car lol
These cars notoriously over compensate for knock like he said and knock feedback under 2 is pretty regular just keep an eye out for how often it happens or if it ever jumps to 2-3+ also be aware OTS tunes knock worse than a custom tune
Na first mods need to fix the crappy stock shifter (sti is great stock, direct linkage ftw)
Agree
You need to add audio cuz it sucks on stock
Agree 💯
Clean ass subie Ryan
Yo what are you using to make your blow off valve sound that loud??
It's not a BOV. It's a Boomba Bypass Valve.
where did you get that accessport window mount??
Amazon for like $12 Look it up!
What up Ryan! Recently went stage 1+ with the ots tune from cobb 91 oct big sf intake. I’m starting to get knock when I hit boost from like -1.41 to -5.66. What can I do to fix this?? Only have had the tune for about 2 days
If you can get 93oct that would help. You really do not want to boost with knock. If you are getting knock I would suggest getting a pro-tune. There are a bunch of e-tuners out there and they are much cheaper than an engine rebuild. If you don't have the money then please, go back to the stock intake until you do.
The remark system is good but when its hott outside i cant hear it. Will be going tomei after i go stage 1.
Been thinking about tomei as well
@@RyansRandomActs me 2
What wheels are those and cost?
Catback would definitely not be #1, a short throw shifter, swaybars, oil separator then accessport as a altogether first mod. Lighter wheels maybe with some sticker tires a little further down the line
What color is that?
Your car is dope as shit
Ahh Yes Ryan misleading new coming WRX owners yet again..
What would you suggest is the top 10 mods to do?
Yeah i disagree with his list. Absolutely the first thing to get is Cobb Accessport period.
@@mashoodaslami6109 I definitely wouldn't start with aesthetic mods, especially knowing the stock tune literally kills these cars for good gas mileage
JeremyHaze explain
where did you get the white bar under the bumper
Theres more to life than Cobb AP.
Get a tune. By a pro.
End.
You're catless? I'm sorry you lost your pet 😥
Lol cosmetic over performance? Nah
You are so wrong
SELL that shitbox ,and buy a Genesis 3.8 prem. Those subaru,s are ok for winter cars.