I don't know why i'm so excited for these videos, it's not like you do something unexpected. But maybe i just enjoy down-to-earth, no-nonsense, no-clickbait videos for a change.
1) plates where the wires are so you cannot accidentally screw into them ... 2) use conduit/sprague between every box - you can pull the wire later and or change wires later easier and without having to cut the drywall. - if you don't leave a draw-wire or get stuck, use a vacuum and bunch of like toilet paper and suck a new draw-wire though - also easier when you have the foam installed since as above, easier to work with - so once all distances are aligned, easy to work with 3) add a trim on the window to match the door, will cover the gap and match the style (since it sticks out)
Yeah, i cam to the comment section for this as well. Run conduit with the cable already inside. Saves a lot of time and yeah, never run the wires directly in the wall. What are you, American?
In the US it's usually required to put nail plates in place for new walls to protect wires and plumbing from screws. You still have to be careful though, electricians have these long flexible drill bits for drilling through framing in existing walls to avoid drywall repairs for installing new circuits.
Place the cut edges towards the floor or ceiling, where they will be covered and less noticeable. Also, get a drywall square. You think your project is small enough to avoid the expense, but they are incredible useful in a workshop, especially for marking and cutting sheets of plywood.
After scoring the drywall from the front, flip it to the side. Most likely it will break already, if not break it now. Split the sheet by cutting from the bottom. Skip flattening the cutting edge unless it is realy messy. Just the chamfer, the plaster will do the trick later. Usually you place Drywall row by row not fragmented like you did. Works sometime, but not very often. By working row vy row you start your next row with the offcut unless it is shorter than 30cm or you dont have 30cm overlapp to your next fitting edge.
Man, I'm jealous. In the US, at least where I've worked, a commercial building has to be framed in metal studs. Any OSB has to be fire rated then painted in fire retardant paint. In residential, stud guard plates have to be installed over wiring and plumbing pass throughs. Also our sheetrock comes in 4X8, 4X10, or 4X12 (feet)sheets. That half size stuff looks awesome to hang. Really wish we did the round electrical boxes here too.
Hey! For cutting insulation, get a bread knife with very very coarse teeth. Not sharp pointy saw teeth. The smooth almost sine wave serrations (usually with pointy teeth but smooth cutouts in between) work the absolute best. For an example, see the Dexter-Russell Basics P94804B. Same tip goes for cutting foams, like for custom mattresses. Hope this helps, build is coming out awesome!
Hiring out the drywall finishing was a very smart move. You can do it your self, and make it look good, but when you see a pro finish drywall it is obvious they are a pro. They are so much faster and the finish will be better overall. So happy for you guys. I always look for your new videos, and now I am eagerly awaiting collaborations.
Cutting out the electrical box holes before screwing the osb on the frame would have reminded you were the cables were running ! guessing that you will find out you did not put enough power sockets soon.
Colletted screw guns are the best thing for sheet goods. Screws load automatically and you can hold the sheet with one hand and screw with the other. They're fast!
4:00 You're supposed to install metal plates on the stud where you have electrical work so its basically impossible to accidentally drill into them within a stud.
i'm surprised that you put osb + dry wall, and that the plastering was the complete wall not just where the drywall sheet meet, but it's probably best for sound proofing. i would have attached the electric boxes to the studs before the osb. i would have precut the holes for the outlet in the osb and drywall before installing them to the wall. and marked approximated location of wire on osb and drywall to not drill there. i think the new way of installing windows is using low expansion urethane foam and hiding the foam with a frame on both side
Nice progress. It's always interesting to see how differently things are done if different parts of the world. Where I live, it is usual to hang the drywall sheets horizontally and not staggered since tape and mud will hide the seams.
Is drywall over OSB common in Germany? In the US, drywall typically goes directly on the studs, no OSB involved, but I could see it being useful for hanging things. You don't have to worry about finding a stud, you can just hang things anywhere you want.
Ireland here. I've ply lined behind plasterboard/drywall in a few rooms in my house when building it - it strengthens up the stud wall, and if you're hanging anything like cabinets later you have grounds no matter where you look for them to support the weight.
Ich hätte die Wände mit Fermacell beplankt...so spart man sich einen Arbeitsschritt. Trotzdem saubere Arbeit weiter so! Bin auf die fertige Werkstatt gespannt
Ein paar Erfahrungen aus mehreren Trockenbau-Baustellen: Besorgt euch einen Winkel um die Platten in der Länge zu kürzen. Knauf hat einen (teuer), Wolfcraft hat einen (alle mal ausreichend), für Festool(ähnliche) Schienen gibts Winkelanschläge (sollte man sowieso haben...) oder auch der billigste 60cm Schlosserwinkel. ob die Platte nachher 1mm Winkelfehler hat interessiert niemanden. Wird nur die Länge angepasst, Platte auf dem Stapel lassen, oben anritzen, aufrichten, dabei ca 1/3 Plattenbreite zu einem hin ziehen. die einfachen schmalen (nicht Faseramierten) Platten brechen meist dabei schon, wenn nicht beherzt in etwa auf Höhe des Anrisses mit der Faust gegen hauen. Platte zusammen falten und im spitzen Winkel von hinten durchtrennen. Schnittkante begradigen ist in den meisten Fällen nicht nötig. Wenn der Bruch dem Schnitt folgt, reicht es nur anzufasen. Alles unter 3mm ist Sollmaß... Entgegen der ganzen verwirrten Amis hier, es macht akustisch durchaus Sinn Gipskarton und OSB zu kombinieren. Die Platten haben unterschiedliche Absorptionseigenschaften, wirken also auf unterschiedliche Frequenzbereiche. Plus die von euch beschriebene einfachere Montage später. Ein paar Tipps dazu. Es bietet sich an die Platten flexibel mit einander zu verkleben. Montagekleber ist die teure Möglichkeit - MS-Polymer die günstige. Auf 625x2000mm reichen 8-10 kirschgroße Batzen, möglichst erratisch, aber ausreichend vom Rand weg (min 5cm). Vorteil, die Schwingneigung des Verbunds wird weiter gemindert und wenn die Schraube, die Das Regal später hält recht schnell durch den weichen Gips durch ist, drückt sie einem nicht die Trockenbauplatte vom OSB weg. Wird zwar nichts reißen dabei, aber die Fugen können einem so was übel nehmen. Wenn es von den Maßen nicht genau aufgeht (1/2 oder 1/3 Platte Rest), dann arbeitet man wie beim Laminat/Parkett verlegen ganze Reihen ab und beginnt die neue Reihe mit dem Reststück. So ist eigentlich immer ein Versatz gegeben, der Verschnitt bleibt schön klein und es geht schneller. Nur immer darauf achten min 30cm hohe Stücke zu nutzen und ebenfalls 30cm Abstand zum Stoß der Nachbarreihe zu lassen. Was die Installationsebene (der Elektrik oder auch anderer Leitungen) angeht: Zwar ist es üblich die Deckebene vertikal zu verlegen, aber es geht auch horizontal. Wenn ihr das aus welchen Gründen auch immer nicht mögt (zB weil ihr dann bei 2000mm Platten immer 250mm wegschmeißen müsst), dann bleibt halt noch die Möglichkeit der Schlagschnur. Einfach deutliche optische Hinweise setzen. Wer hat, nimmt natürlich nen Laser. Benutzt weniger schrauben. Die OSB-Platten sollen plan am Ständerwerk anliegen, nicht mehr. Stabil wird das ganze dann später doppelt wenn ihr den Gipskarton DURCH das Osb im Ständerwerk fixiert. Hier geben die Hersteller ein Schraubabstand in der zweiten Lage von 250mm an. Plattenlängsstöße werden nicht weiter abgefangen. Schon gar nicht mit ner lustigen Parade aus 5 oder 6 Schrauben... denkt doch bitte an die Personen die das später wieder abbauen müssen - ja Schrauben bringen Stabilität, aber sie bringen auch Stabilität. Wollt ihr eure Waschmaschine an der Wand aufhängen - dafür ist Trockenbau nicht das richtige ;)
To speed up: no need to cut out the window opening with a jigsaw. Just use the trim router bit. I've never seen such tiny drywall sheets. I just did a room with 4'x8' sheets (1219.2 mm by 2438.4mm)
Hey guys. I'm a civil engineer so here some advice: the rebar cannot be exposed near of the basement holes that you guys use to run the cables 1:46 . With the lack of concrete protection, it can start to corrode and can be harmful to the structure
Drywall shouldn’t be used as an anchor point for anything too substantial (45lbs+) with appropriate bracket spacing. You could easily speed up the process with loctite adhesive and fewer screws. You’re going to need to wait anyway with the plaster. So that should allow for ample drying time. When you have a wall hung load greater than 45lbs, find the studs and mount directly. Will be disappointed if you don’t with any drywall install if you attempt without stingers that are connected to your wall studs. Using perimeter screws on your drywall patches and a few equidistant in between will get the job done. With the adhesive on the back face in a zig zag spread (approx 10-20cm spacing) as always, good job and safety first unless the danger is moving to quickly- then haste it is.
Die Sockelleiste unter der Festverglasung (Fenster) hättest du bequem runterhebeln können. Nur falls du so etwas je wieder machen musst. Die Dinger werden üblicherweise auch mit einem Hammer drauf geklopft. Grüße von einem Fensterbauer.
Is that a common practice to layer the OSB with drywall? I've not really seen anyone do that intentionally before but it's a great idea. Especially for a workshop area.
You installed the window just right, for an inside window. For an outside window, the water that runs down the glass collects where you put the screws and would cause a leak to the inside.
Looks great so far but please increase the bend radius of that ethernet cable going into the basement, I know its annoying but this can severly damage the cable and therefore the signal integrety over time. The bend radius shouldnt be less than 4 times the wires diameter.
I don't know if these are available in Germany, but in North America they do make little metal protection plates that get nailed on the face of framing to protect wires and plumbing pipes from screws.
Do your electrical codes not require strain relief of the cables where they enter the boxes? Or nail plates so you don't nail/screw through your cables?
Over here on the wrong side of the pond we have nail plates to protect plumbing/wiring passed through studs. Surely there is something similar on the right side of the pond?
I have used a similar insulation from a Norwegian manufacturer (Hunton), and apart from it being really nice to work with but harder to cut as you said, it smelled like cotton candy (Zuckerwatte) which made the experience even better. Did this do the same? Great update on the construction!
Maßfliese ist ja geil, die muss ich mir merken! Wo ist Robin denn her? Der schwäbelt so.. Ich hätte jetzt gesagt schorndorf... Dass man kabel nicht anbohren sollte lernt man immer auf die harte Tour..
@MHAnything tatsächlich? Hattest du nicht oft ein Tshirt von einem münchner blaskapellenverein getragen? Ich hatte dich eher in Oberbayern eingeordnet.. Egal, dann seid Ihr eben alle Mitschwaben. Moment, wichtige Frage: bayrisches Schwaben oder richtigs Schobaländle?
@MHAnything tatsächlich? Ich hätte Stefan und dich eher als Oberbayern eingeschätzt. Seid ihr richtig ausm ländle, oder aus dem dahergloffene bayrische "schwaben"? (Ja, ich tu mich offensichtlich schwer bauernschwäbisch in schriftform zu verpacken)
That has to be the weirdest way to mount a fixed window I have ever seen. Was there a particular reason for it? Usually you would use a steel anchor plate mounted to the outside of the window frame and the wall and expanding foam to insualte around.
Thats way the way our windows gets instaled. yes it is not common to have this type of window inside of a building (it is meant for outside walls, the piece Marius hammered away was water spill guard), but it is not unheared off eather. In general our Window frames comes prebuild to the construction side an gets installed with screew through the frame (like Marius did). than you fit cpmpression-sealing (or sprayfoam) in the gap between frame and wall. Reaply plaster in the corners. Then the window glas gets installed an secured with the Snap-ip plastik strips Marius removed earlier - done.
Yes, typical German! And sometimes they use two layers of drywall and the OSB. Gives excellent noise dampening and thermal and water capacity which gives a better room climate.
@@needamuffin no thats the even sturdier brick walls. Drywall is gaining popularity here, but the house I live in has brick and mortar walls everywhere, even indoors
@@k.rompsch3530 technicaly the same here in germany. it is not forbidden to do what ever he/she/it wants to do (in terms of wirering), as long as it is private houshold (so not to be rented, or with public trafic, or buisness). It is highly recomended to get an professional for this work. As this is a installation or an buisness use, you can do the cablework yourself. but than has to be checked by an certified electricion who than brings the installtion live. - At least thats how it is meant to be. 'my uncle knows how to do wiring' is a phase i (certified sparky myself) hear way to often.
Hey Marius, I was wondering why you guys did OSB and then drywall over it on this wall. Is that common practice in the EU? Here in the US it is almost always just drywall directly on studs, or sometimes two layers of "fire code" drywall in situations where that is required.
It probably makes for a more rigid construction so you can hang stuff easier later on and it probably also dampens sound so the wall sounds less hollow
Over here in the Netherlands (the country next to Germany) It's done a bit more often. Also saves you from having huge gaping holes in the walls whenever a dumb accident happens.
Ich schreib mal dreist auf Deutsch. Ihr benutzt ein Wolfcraft Werkzeug um die Rigipsplatten glatt zu machen, da gibt es auch einen "Hobel" um den Winkel reinzuschneiden. Für mich am Haus war das Ding ein Gamechanger. Davon ab eine naive Frage: Ihr habt den Rigips danach glatt gefräst, killt das Material den Fräser nicht super schnell? Grüße.
Just as an FYI to anyone thinking about buying the wood fiber insulation material: I was curious about the "E" classification on "Reaction to fire" (1:52). E is bad. Really bad. From a document from Rockwool (renowned insulation material producer): - Reaction to fire: Significant contribution to flashover - Flashover in the Room Corner reference test: Flashover before 2 min - Additional criteria tested for: Production of flaming droplets or particles (Smoke release is expected to be substantial) I understand that this material will be encapsulated in a wall, but I still don't like this. I get that PUR, PIR and EPS are probably even worse, but I don't like those either. Be careful with flammable insulation people. A fire might never happen, but if it does, you wanna be able to get out alive.
Naked wire, like America and Germany does, in general, is bad combination with Isolation. It is the primary reason why it is never done in Sweden. Because it generally correlated to "Electrical cable = Warm, = Fire Starter" But ye, good catch.
You are right, cables tend to get hot, insuleted cabled even hotter. But trust me, like everything else, here in germany we have regulations for that. t looks to that they used 1,5mm² cables (between 15 and 16 AWG) which, when fused with 10Amps, is fine. Surplus, those wood-based insulations are technicaly flameable, but tend not to. even when hit with a torch, they build a layer of coal on top, which stops burning after the flame is applied. th-cam.com/video/OIl2N2yFxAw/w-d-xo.html from left to right: Cellulose (basicly shredded Paper/wood based, EPS, Stonewool, Rockwool. Sure, no fire in the first place is the preferable option, But while Stonewool failed after around 15Min, Cellulose still stood strong after 30min. And thats basicly the same for all plants based insulation materials.
@@arminosaeure29 I am perfectly aware that almost everything in Germany is regulated, just like it is in the Netherlands where I'm from. I also highly doubt they'd use 1,5mm² cables, 2,5 is basically the norm for anything in-wall. 1,5mm² only tends to be used for extension cords and maybe lighting circuits. While I have seen the same style of video that you linked, and they seem legit, I'd rather rely on European testing. These kinds of demonstrations are almost always done in such a way that it looks like their product is awesome and the rest sucks, but those situations tend to have virtually nothing to do with reality. For example: Yes, stonewool and glasswool will melt when hit with an extremely high temperature like a torch like in the video. However, they will NEVER contribute to a fire, because the material simply is not flammable. The same can not be said for wood fibers. Sure, densely packed wood fibers will not burn as badly as most people would expect. In a similar way, a book which is made from paper, pretty damn flammable, will barely burn when closed. However, the reality is that these kinds of materials are never tightly packed everywhere. Around the wires there will be open spaces, and in the event of a fire, those open spaces will act like chimneys, rapidly accelerating the fire and burning the wood fibers. To be clear: I'm not saying they have built a death trap fire risk. I'm also not saying that it won't contain a fire, that's not even relevant given the building, the type of construction and the sheeting on the wall. I'm just saying that this insulation material simply isn't great in a fire.
@@Helveteshit I have to say, this is the first time I've ever seen Germans do wiring like this, but then again, I don't think I've ever seen a non-brick wall built in Germany. AFAIK, virtually all in-wall electrical wiring in Germany is 3 separate 2,5mm² wires in conduit. Also, the "electrical cable = warm" is already not true, and "warm = fire starter" also isn't true. If your electrical cable so warm you can't touch it anymore, you've done something wrong. I don't think any western European country (excluding GB) would allow that. Secondly: So warm you can't touch it anymore is something like 50 to 60C. The self-ignition temperature of paper is well above 200C. Warmth from an electrical cable will never cause a fire. Electrical fires almost always happen because of loose connections or a bad install.
Wenn du mit dem Akkuschrauber und Lochsäge die Dosenlöcher bohrt, verwendet lieber den zusätzlichen Griff der Maschine. Die Dinger haben echt viel Drehmoment und können das Handgelenk in einem unachtsamen Moment echt beleidigen. Ich rede aus Erfahrung, konnte ein Monat lange mein Handgelenk nicht mehr belasten.
Stimme ich zu. Meine Bohrmaschine hat einen Sensor verbaut, der die Maschine sofort stoppt, falls sie verkantet. Geniale Erfindung und hat mein Handgelenk schon ein paar Mal geschont
Pro Tip: Drywall was invented as a backer for plaster work to eliminate the need for lathe. There is no need to put OSB behind drywall if you know how to properly install drywall.
If you want max sound dampening, easy installation of shelfs and dont want to redo the wall (or at least the frame) just because s.o. sneast to hard close to the wall, that OSB is a very smart solution against all of the above points - with nearly no extra cost an efforts. OSB and Drywall sheets even come in the same dimensions - what a nice coincidens.
So you are the reason they invented: Nail plates 😂 But I don't think that it's a common product in Germany. Walls like that are mostly build with "Trockenbauprofile" drywall framing in Germany...
If I had to guess, the main advantage is you can drive screws into the wall anywhere without needing anchors. If it was just for noise, a second layer of drywall would probably be cheaper and more effective.
It takes a professional to know where you can cut corners without impacting quality. For example a pro drywaller doesn't use a straightedge to cut a sheet, they don't even have to pick it up off the floor. You pull your tape to your length and pinch it, hold the knife to the tab on the other side, and cut while riding the edge of the sheet with your measurement hand.
Those orange Hohlwanddosen we're calling Senildosen, because when you forget to put one in before you cover the wall with OSB and plasterboards you can put it in afterwards. 🤣
I don't know why i'm so excited for these videos, it's not like you do something unexpected. But maybe i just enjoy down-to-earth, no-nonsense, no-clickbait videos for a change.
shop buld are always fun
double the ladders means you're twice as safe 3:46
Health and Saftey would definitely not argue with that sound logic!
1) plates where the wires are so you cannot accidentally screw into them ...
2) use conduit/sprague between every box - you can pull the wire later and or change wires later easier and without having to cut the drywall.
- if you don't leave a draw-wire or get stuck, use a vacuum and bunch of like toilet paper and suck a new draw-wire though
- also easier when you have the foam installed since as above, easier to work with - so once all distances are aligned, easy to work with
3) add a trim on the window to match the door, will cover the gap and match the style (since it sticks out)
Yeah, i cam to the comment section for this as well. Run conduit with the cable already inside. Saves a lot of time and yeah, never run the wires directly in the wall. What are you, American?
In the US it's usually required to put nail plates in place for new walls to protect wires and plumbing from screws. You still have to be careful though, electricians have these long flexible drill bits for drilling through framing in existing walls to avoid drywall repairs for installing new circuits.
Place the cut edges towards the floor or ceiling, where they will be covered and less noticeable.
Also, get a drywall square. You think your project is small enough to avoid the expense, but they are incredible useful in a workshop, especially for marking and cutting sheets of plywood.
After scoring the drywall from the front, flip it to the side. Most likely it will break already, if not break it now. Split the sheet by cutting from the bottom.
Skip flattening the cutting edge unless it is realy messy. Just the chamfer, the plaster will do the trick later.
Usually you place Drywall row by row not fragmented like you did. Works sometime, but not very often.
By working row vy row you start your next row with the offcut unless it is shorter than 30cm or you dont have 30cm overlapp to your next fitting edge.
Man, I'm jealous. In the US, at least where I've worked, a commercial building has to be framed in metal studs. Any OSB has to be fire rated then painted in fire retardant paint. In residential, stud guard plates have to be installed over wiring and plumbing pass throughs. Also our sheetrock comes in 4X8, 4X10, or 4X12 (feet)sheets. That half size stuff looks awesome to hang. Really wish we did the round electrical boxes here too.
These videos are so exciting, so appreciative of you letting us come along on the journey.
Hey! For cutting insulation, get a bread knife with very very coarse teeth. Not sharp pointy saw teeth. The smooth almost sine wave serrations (usually with pointy teeth but smooth cutouts in between) work the absolute best. For an example, see the Dexter-Russell Basics P94804B. Same tip goes for cutting foams, like for custom mattresses. Hope this helps, build is coming out awesome!
Hiring out the drywall finishing was a very smart move. You can do it your self, and make it look good, but when you see a pro finish drywall it is obvious they are a pro. They are so much faster and the finish will be better overall.
So happy for you guys. I always look for your new videos, and now I am eagerly awaiting collaborations.
BTW bread knife with the wavy serration are also excellent for this kind of insulation - better than a standard insulation knife!
Slow down there VanDamme, you’ll hurt yourself 😂
Cutting out the electrical box holes before screwing the osb on the frame would have reminded you were the cables were running !
guessing that you will find out you did not put enough power sockets soon.
Textured walls? How charmingly 70s!
Nailing plates make it so that you don't pierce things in the wall.
Ya beat me too it… surprised it’s not code there?
@Thomllama it could be...
Colletted screw guns are the best thing for sheet goods. Screws load automatically and you can hold the sheet with one hand and screw with the other. They're fast!
Awesome, it's great to see it all coming together. 🌟💯
You can paint uPVC windows with zinnser allcoat paint to tidy it up a bit
Hope that 45° wall on the way in becomes a cool exhibition of your projects.
Excited to see more, even more excited to see it completed
4:00 You're supposed to install metal plates on the stud where you have electrical work so its basically impossible to accidentally drill into them within a stud.
i'm surprised that you put osb + dry wall, and that the plastering was the complete wall not just where the drywall sheet meet, but it's probably best for sound proofing.
i would have attached the electric boxes to the studs before the osb. i would have precut the holes for the outlet in the osb and drywall before installing them to the wall. and marked approximated location of wire on osb and drywall to not drill there.
i think the new way of installing windows is using low expansion urethane foam and hiding the foam with a frame on both side
This is one person I anjoy watching work 👍👍👍👍
Nice progress. It's always interesting to see how differently things are done if different parts of the world. Where I live, it is usual to hang the drywall sheets horizontally and not staggered since tape and mud will hide the seams.
Is drywall over OSB common in Germany? In the US, drywall typically goes directly on the studs, no OSB involved, but I could see it being useful for hanging things. You don't have to worry about finding a stud, you can just hang things anywhere you want.
Ireland here. I've ply lined behind plasterboard/drywall in a few rooms in my house when building it - it strengthens up the stud wall, and if you're hanging anything like cabinets later you have grounds no matter where you look for them to support the weight.
It helps prevent opening up huge holes with dumb little accidents.
And it is more commonly done here (In the Netherlands)
Common in Sweden also
It’s common in the US as part of a fire barrier wall
If you want the plaster to go up faster, use bigger sheets 😅
Get yourself an automatic screw driver like the Makita DFR551Z. Saves a ton of time screwing OSB and gypsum board.
Ich hätte die Wände mit Fermacell beplankt...so spart man sich einen Arbeitsschritt. Trotzdem saubere Arbeit weiter so! Bin auf die fertige Werkstatt gespannt
Ich liebe solche Videos. Andere arbeiten, ich schau dabei zu und kann sogar noch was essen. So mag ich das. :D
Stefan and Marius in one building can become too powerful for us to handle
love the back to back to back videos.
Wer hätte gedacht, dass sogar ein kleines Kletteräffchen im Marius steckt... 1a Leiterakrobatik. ;D
handy man -> best man
More than one thousand likes and no visible dislikes! Impressive stuff
the wall before plaster looks so interesting, a very brutalist vibe to it
it's called OSB (oriented strand board) it should be available in every hardware store.
Coming from you, I thought you would build a sort of "modular wall" so you could easily disassemble/rearrange it if needed.
Ein paar Erfahrungen aus mehreren Trockenbau-Baustellen:
Besorgt euch einen Winkel um die Platten in der Länge zu kürzen. Knauf hat einen (teuer), Wolfcraft hat einen (alle mal ausreichend), für Festool(ähnliche) Schienen gibts Winkelanschläge (sollte man sowieso haben...) oder auch der billigste 60cm Schlosserwinkel. ob die Platte nachher 1mm Winkelfehler hat interessiert niemanden.
Wird nur die Länge angepasst, Platte auf dem Stapel lassen, oben anritzen, aufrichten, dabei ca 1/3 Plattenbreite zu einem hin ziehen. die einfachen schmalen (nicht Faseramierten) Platten brechen meist dabei schon, wenn nicht beherzt in etwa auf Höhe des Anrisses mit der Faust gegen hauen. Platte zusammen falten und im spitzen Winkel von hinten durchtrennen.
Schnittkante begradigen ist in den meisten Fällen nicht nötig. Wenn der Bruch dem Schnitt folgt, reicht es nur anzufasen. Alles unter 3mm ist Sollmaß...
Entgegen der ganzen verwirrten Amis hier, es macht akustisch durchaus Sinn Gipskarton und OSB zu kombinieren. Die Platten haben unterschiedliche Absorptionseigenschaften, wirken also auf unterschiedliche Frequenzbereiche. Plus die von euch beschriebene einfachere Montage später. Ein paar Tipps dazu. Es bietet sich an die Platten flexibel mit einander zu verkleben. Montagekleber ist die teure Möglichkeit - MS-Polymer die günstige. Auf 625x2000mm reichen 8-10 kirschgroße Batzen, möglichst erratisch, aber ausreichend vom Rand weg (min 5cm). Vorteil, die Schwingneigung des Verbunds wird weiter gemindert und wenn die Schraube, die Das Regal später hält recht schnell durch den weichen Gips durch ist, drückt sie einem nicht die Trockenbauplatte vom OSB weg. Wird zwar nichts reißen dabei, aber die Fugen können einem so was übel nehmen.
Wenn es von den Maßen nicht genau aufgeht (1/2 oder 1/3 Platte Rest), dann arbeitet man wie beim Laminat/Parkett verlegen ganze Reihen ab und beginnt die neue Reihe mit dem Reststück. So ist eigentlich immer ein Versatz gegeben, der Verschnitt bleibt schön klein und es geht schneller. Nur immer darauf achten min 30cm hohe Stücke zu nutzen und ebenfalls 30cm Abstand zum Stoß der Nachbarreihe zu lassen.
Was die Installationsebene (der Elektrik oder auch anderer Leitungen) angeht: Zwar ist es üblich die Deckebene vertikal zu verlegen, aber es geht auch horizontal. Wenn ihr das aus welchen Gründen auch immer nicht mögt (zB weil ihr dann bei 2000mm Platten immer 250mm wegschmeißen müsst), dann bleibt halt noch die Möglichkeit der Schlagschnur. Einfach deutliche optische Hinweise setzen. Wer hat, nimmt natürlich nen Laser.
Benutzt weniger schrauben. Die OSB-Platten sollen plan am Ständerwerk anliegen, nicht mehr. Stabil wird das ganze dann später doppelt wenn ihr den Gipskarton DURCH das Osb im Ständerwerk fixiert. Hier geben die Hersteller ein Schraubabstand in der zweiten Lage von 250mm an. Plattenlängsstöße werden nicht weiter abgefangen. Schon gar nicht mit ner lustigen Parade aus 5 oder 6 Schrauben... denkt doch bitte an die Personen die das später wieder abbauen müssen - ja Schrauben bringen Stabilität, aber sie bringen auch Stabilität. Wollt ihr eure Waschmaschine an der Wand aufhängen - dafür ist Trockenbau nicht das richtige ;)
I have nothing to say, just my usually support comment 😂, i love what ur doing. Best wishes to u and ur family!!
To speed up: no need to cut out the window opening with a jigsaw. Just use the trim router bit.
I've never seen such tiny drywall sheets. I just did a room with 4'x8' sheets (1219.2 mm by 2438.4mm)
True. My trim router unfortunately isn't powerful enough for 18mm OSB
Cabling inside the wall but not for the camera?
Well done so far!
Oifach schee, des bissle schwäbisch zwischadenna...😁
Just get a cutout/framing bit for your router!
Hey guys. I'm a civil engineer so here some advice: the rebar cannot be exposed near of the basement holes that you guys use to run the cables 1:46 . With the lack of concrete protection, it can start to corrode and can be harmful to the structure
Good point. We'll cover it up again
Install screw plates in the future to protect the wires.
I was surprised you didn't run conduit. Future proof your wiring.
Für die Kameras kriegst du noch extra Aufputz-Boxen. Sieht vllt etwas schicker aus also die wilde Hilde :D
windows are meant to be sealed and held in place with expanding foam with a fairly large clearance around (5-10mm), another way of speeding things up
Drywall shouldn’t be used as an anchor point for anything too substantial (45lbs+) with appropriate bracket spacing. You could easily speed up the process with loctite adhesive and fewer screws. You’re going to need to wait anyway with the plaster. So that should allow for ample drying time. When you have a wall hung load greater than 45lbs, find the studs and mount directly. Will be disappointed if you don’t with any drywall install if you attempt without stingers that are connected to your wall studs. Using perimeter screws on your drywall patches and a few equidistant in between will get the job done. With the adhesive on the back face in a zig zag spread (approx 10-20cm spacing) as always, good job and safety first unless the danger is moving to quickly- then haste it is.
Die Sockelleiste unter der Festverglasung (Fenster) hättest du bequem runterhebeln können. Nur falls du so etwas je wieder machen musst. Die Dinger werden üblicherweise auch mit einem Hammer drauf geklopft. Grüße von einem Fensterbauer.
Hebeln mit dem Tool was ich benutzt habe?
Is that a common practice to layer the OSB with drywall? I've not really seen anyone do that intentionally before but it's a great idea. Especially for a workshop area.
You installed the window just right, for an inside window. For an outside window, the water that runs down the glass collects where you put the screws and would cause a leak to the inside.
Looks great so far but please increase the bend radius of that ethernet cable going into the basement, I know its annoying but this can severly damage the cable and therefore the signal integrety over time.
The bend radius shouldnt be less than 4 times the wires diameter.
I don't know if these are available in Germany, but in North America they do make little metal protection plates that get nailed on the face of framing to protect wires and plumbing pipes from screws.
They would have saved a few extra work hours so far
Hanging a door isn't hard at all, you should have given it a go 😊
加油👍
Have done a few walls without drywall, just sand the OSB.
i know this is late since you already finished the insulation. but, mask bro. :)
Do your electrical codes not require strain relief of the cables where they enter the boxes? Or nail plates so you don't nail/screw through your cables?
Yes, strain relief is required, they just used the wrong entry at the boxes. They have integrated strain relief.
Over here on the wrong side of the pond we have nail plates to protect plumbing/wiring passed through studs. Surely there is something similar on the right side of the pond?
this man is so german, he uses the proper standardized 30cm distance from the floor for the outlets instead of just eyeballing it
although the native banter sounds more like tyrolean or maybe styrian… certainly something austro-bavarian.
Really cool that you take the time to let us follow along. Always nice to video's of you work!
Isn’t German plastering smooth? Looks like the texture of concrete blocks! I’m only used to seeing perfectly smooth plaster
I have used a similar insulation from a Norwegian manufacturer (Hunton), and apart from it being really nice to work with but harder to cut as you said, it smelled like cotton candy (Zuckerwatte) which made the experience even better. Did this do the same?
Great update on the construction!
Unfortunately it came without cotton candy smell. Just a "basically like nothing" smell
@@MHAnything Too bad, it was definitivelyt a nice surprise when we opened the first bale.
Interesting that you didn't use conduit for the wiring.
A very German title!
You used waaaay too many screws to secure the drywall, about double of what is needed.
Whoops 🤭
Now my comment makes no sense 😅
Genuine "that ain't going nowhere"
Maßfliese ist ja geil, die muss ich mir merken!
Wo ist Robin denn her? Der schwäbelt so..
Ich hätte jetzt gesagt schorndorf...
Dass man kabel nicht anbohren sollte lernt man immer auf die harte Tour..
Mir san alle vom Schwobaländle. Woher genau weißt ich nicht ob ich öffentlich schreiben soll
@MHAnything tatsächlich? Hattest du nicht oft ein Tshirt von einem münchner blaskapellenverein getragen?
Ich hatte dich eher in Oberbayern eingeordnet..
Egal, dann seid Ihr eben alle Mitschwaben.
Moment, wichtige Frage: bayrisches Schwaben oder richtigs Schobaländle?
@MHAnything tatsächlich? Ich hätte Stefan und dich eher als Oberbayern eingeschätzt.
Seid ihr richtig ausm ländle, oder aus dem dahergloffene bayrische "schwaben"?
(Ja, ich tu mich offensichtlich schwer bauernschwäbisch in schriftform zu verpacken)
👍🏻😉
lol stop Flush trimming everything! And get with the ingenuity!
That has to be the weirdest way to mount a fixed window I have ever seen. Was there a particular reason for it? Usually you would use a steel anchor plate mounted to the outside of the window frame and the wall and expanding foam to insualte around.
Thats way the way our windows gets instaled. yes it is not common to have this type of window inside of a building (it is meant for outside walls, the piece Marius hammered away was water spill guard), but it is not unheared off eather. In general our Window frames comes prebuild to the construction side an gets installed with screew through the frame (like Marius did). than you fit cpmpression-sealing (or sprayfoam) in the gap between frame and wall. Reaply plaster in the corners. Then the window glas gets installed an secured with the Snap-ip plastik strips Marius removed earlier - done.
Drywall over OSB... I've never seen that before (American here). Is that typical in Germany? They're going be *very* solid walls 💪
It helps noise insulation and It's perfect if you later want to screw something into that wall.
Yes, typical German! And sometimes they use two layers of drywall and the OSB. Gives excellent noise dampening and thermal and water capacity which gives a better room climate.
@@CNCKitchen Definitely. Great idea - I'm doing that next build I do here
@@martingerber9817 So that's why your walls are like a foot thick.
@@needamuffin no thats the even sturdier brick walls. Drywall is gaining popularity here, but the house I live in has brick and mortar walls everywhere, even indoors
You can do your own wiring, in Germany of all places? Here in my part of New York you have to hire an electrician.
Considering how much of a fire hazard the electrical wiring is in NY when done by "professionals". I wouldn't want to see non-professionals
@ oh no doubt. Just surprised (and more than a little jealous) to see Germany having fewer rules than New York.
you are allowed to do the wiring as long as the cable is not live. You need an electrician to connect it to the control box
@@k.rompsch3530 technicaly the same here in germany. it is not forbidden to do what ever he/she/it wants to do (in terms of wirering), as long as it is private houshold (so not to be rented, or with public trafic, or buisness). It is highly recomended to get an professional for this work.
As this is a installation or an buisness use, you can do the cablework yourself. but than has to be checked by an certified electricion who than brings the installtion live. - At least thats how it is meant to be. 'my uncle knows how to do wiring' is a phase i (certified sparky myself) hear way to often.
3:46 akrobatischer auftritt XD
Hey Marius, I was wondering why you guys did OSB and then drywall over it on this wall. Is that common practice in the EU? Here in the US it is almost always just drywall directly on studs, or sometimes two layers of "fire code" drywall in situations where that is required.
It probably makes for a more rigid construction so you can hang stuff easier later on and it probably also dampens sound so the wall sounds less hollow
Over here in the Netherlands (the country next to Germany) It's done a bit more often.
Also saves you from having huge gaping holes in the walls whenever a dumb accident happens.
Wie teuer war das Verspachteln der Rigips-Wand so in etwa?
Ich schreib mal dreist auf Deutsch. Ihr benutzt ein Wolfcraft Werkzeug um die Rigipsplatten glatt zu machen, da gibt es auch einen "Hobel" um den Winkel reinzuschneiden. Für mich am Haus war das Ding ein Gamechanger.
Davon ab eine naive Frage: Ihr habt den Rigips danach glatt gefräst, killt das Material den Fräser nicht super schnell?
Grüße.
Ich hab damit gerechnet, dass der Fräser das nicht mag. Erstaunlicherweise kann er das gut wegstecken
@@MHAnything Gut zu wissen, danke für die Info!
Why have you used osb AND drywall ? Also, why Wood and Not the usual C or U stand ?
Just as an FYI to anyone thinking about buying the wood fiber insulation material: I was curious about the "E" classification on "Reaction to fire" (1:52). E is bad. Really bad. From a document from Rockwool (renowned insulation material producer):
- Reaction to fire: Significant contribution to flashover
- Flashover in the Room Corner reference test: Flashover before 2 min
- Additional criteria tested for: Production of flaming droplets or particles (Smoke release is expected to be substantial)
I understand that this material will be encapsulated in a wall, but I still don't like this. I get that PUR, PIR and EPS are probably even worse, but I don't like those either. Be careful with flammable insulation people. A fire might never happen, but if it does, you wanna be able to get out alive.
Naked wire, like America and Germany does, in general, is bad combination with Isolation. It is the primary reason why it is never done in Sweden. Because it generally correlated to "Electrical cable = Warm, = Fire Starter"
But ye, good catch.
You are right, cables tend to get hot, insuleted cabled even hotter. But trust me, like everything else, here in germany we have regulations for that. t looks to that they used 1,5mm² cables (between 15 and 16 AWG) which, when fused with 10Amps, is fine.
Surplus, those wood-based insulations are technicaly flameable, but tend not to. even when hit with a torch, they build a layer of coal on top, which stops burning after the flame is applied. th-cam.com/video/OIl2N2yFxAw/w-d-xo.html from left to right: Cellulose (basicly shredded Paper/wood based, EPS, Stonewool, Rockwool. Sure, no fire in the first place is the preferable option, But while Stonewool failed after around 15Min, Cellulose still stood strong after 30min. And thats basicly the same for all plants based insulation materials.
@@arminosaeure29 I am perfectly aware that almost everything in Germany is regulated, just like it is in the Netherlands where I'm from. I also highly doubt they'd use 1,5mm² cables, 2,5 is basically the norm for anything in-wall. 1,5mm² only tends to be used for extension cords and maybe lighting circuits.
While I have seen the same style of video that you linked, and they seem legit, I'd rather rely on European testing. These kinds of demonstrations are almost always done in such a way that it looks like their product is awesome and the rest sucks, but those situations tend to have virtually nothing to do with reality. For example: Yes, stonewool and glasswool will melt when hit with an extremely high temperature like a torch like in the video. However, they will NEVER contribute to a fire, because the material simply is not flammable. The same can not be said for wood fibers. Sure, densely packed wood fibers will not burn as badly as most people would expect. In a similar way, a book which is made from paper, pretty damn flammable, will barely burn when closed. However, the reality is that these kinds of materials are never tightly packed everywhere. Around the wires there will be open spaces, and in the event of a fire, those open spaces will act like chimneys, rapidly accelerating the fire and burning the wood fibers.
To be clear: I'm not saying they have built a death trap fire risk. I'm also not saying that it won't contain a fire, that's not even relevant given the building, the type of construction and the sheeting on the wall. I'm just saying that this insulation material simply isn't great in a fire.
@@Helveteshit I have to say, this is the first time I've ever seen Germans do wiring like this, but then again, I don't think I've ever seen a non-brick wall built in Germany. AFAIK, virtually all in-wall electrical wiring in Germany is 3 separate 2,5mm² wires in conduit.
Also, the "electrical cable = warm" is already not true, and "warm = fire starter" also isn't true. If your electrical cable so warm you can't touch it anymore, you've done something wrong. I don't think any western European country (excluding GB) would allow that. Secondly: So warm you can't touch it anymore is something like 50 to 60C. The self-ignition temperature of paper is well above 200C. Warmth from an electrical cable will never cause a fire. Electrical fires almost always happen because of loose connections or a bad install.
Wires directly in the wall? What are you, American?
EU doesn't use nail plates?
Wenn du mit dem Akkuschrauber und Lochsäge die Dosenlöcher bohrt, verwendet lieber den zusätzlichen Griff der Maschine. Die Dinger haben echt viel Drehmoment und können das Handgelenk in einem unachtsamen Moment echt beleidigen. Ich rede aus Erfahrung, konnte ein Monat lange mein Handgelenk nicht mehr belasten.
Stimme ich zu. Meine Bohrmaschine hat einen Sensor verbaut, der die Maschine sofort stoppt, falls sie verkantet. Geniale Erfindung und hat mein Handgelenk schon ein paar Mal geschont
@@MHAnything ok, das hätte meine Makita auch haben sollen ;)
No PVC-pipes for the electrical cables?
Pro Tip: Drywall was invented as a backer for plaster work to eliminate the need for lathe. There is no need to put OSB behind drywall if you know how to properly install drywall.
If you want max sound dampening, easy installation of shelfs and dont want to redo the wall (or at least the frame) just because s.o. sneast to hard close to the wall, that OSB is a very smart solution against all of the above points - with nearly no extra cost an efforts. OSB and Drywall sheets even come in the same dimensions - what a nice coincidens.
So you are the reason they invented: Nail plates 😂 But I don't think that it's a common product in Germany. Walls like that are mostly build with "Trockenbauprofile" drywall framing in Germany...
I'm trying to figure out what the OSB is for. Noise dampening?
Maybe for fixing stuff to the wall with more resistance
If I had to guess, the main advantage is you can drive screws into the wall anywhere without needing anchors. If it was just for noise, a second layer of drywall would probably be cheaper and more effective.
Less precision would speed things up.
It takes a professional to know where you can cut corners without impacting quality. For example a pro drywaller doesn't use a straightedge to cut a sheet, they don't even have to pick it up off the floor. You pull your tape to your length and pinch it, hold the knife to the tab on the other side, and cut while riding the edge of the sheet with your measurement hand.
Those orange Hohlwanddosen we're calling Senildosen, because when you forget to put one in before you cover the wall with OSB and plasterboards you can put it in afterwards. 🤣
'ello fellow swede. Very useful tho.
@@Helveteshit Indeed they are.
Use a serrated bread knife for cutting that insulation, trust me.
Honestly, seems the right call
That's what the insulation knife basically is. It's good, just not clean
@@MHAnything Trust me
First!