Many times I'll be in my shop doing a task and I'll say "I need to go to the store to buy this tool." but then I'll think about it more and figure out a way to do the task without spending money and wasting time driving.
@@shawbrosbut this was the prefect use case - sometimes the thing you need just doesn’t exist. So rather than give up or live with something less suitable - make it yourself!
You have to love that old Jobmate high speed tool! I've broken two genuine Dremels, and another generic, but the Jobmate just keeps working. Thanks for the excellent video, I'll be making some of my own Brad point bits today, usimg my Jobmate.
Only you would think of converting one drill bit type into another! Now I have a use for the broken bits I've kept around. Also really like the idea of using heat gun to extend hot glue working time.
Interesting! Just having a jig to sharpen brad point drills is a worthwhile endeavor. Here's another thought - it looks like a lot of the stubby brad point drills that come with a hex drive have enough of a shank that I'd think a collet would get good purchase if you just cut off the hex portion. Might be worth a shot.
@@matthiaswandel You can also put a hex into a round collet, just don't put the hex points into the grooves of the collet, and you will maintain good concentricity.
I bought a set of brad point bits from the big Orange store that turned out to be so bad they weren't really even usable. So, I think I'm going to try this. Thank you for this idea!
Take a factory brad point bit and line up the grind with your bench grinder. You'll see that it's easy to off-hand grind a brad point bit in very little time if you are careful with the angles (You need to be careful with the angles either way). The radius that builds up on the corner of an undressed wheel is not even a problem. I've got a draw full of bits that I've made this way, starting with standard HSS twist drills. They work every bit as well as a factory grind.
@Matthias I make these all the time, but I just freehand them. I also use Dremel, but with a small grinding stone so I only have to make 4 cuts, first two form the cutting edges and half of the brad point, second two thin out the brad - just like you did. Wood drills are pretty forgiving on the geometry as long as they are made sharp. Shortening works but the land (middle part of the drill) gets bigger and has to thinned What I'd really like to try is to convert some metric drills into WoodOwl overdrive geometry (they only make imperial ones). It's supposed to have next to zero chipout on the exit side
Just looked those woodwol bits up -- not cheap! I was keen on getting the the brad exactly in the middle because the goal was drilling holes accurately. Though it occurred to me just now, if my goal is mortises, no brad might be advantageous too.
@@matthiaswandel Use an endmill in that case, it's a lot stiffer. I suspect a brad type drill without a point will tend to walk. I find it easy to place the point in the middle when freehand grinding by just not shifting my hold. I rotate the drill with the back hand, but I keep hold of it with my front the whole time and keep the front hand planted on the rest. I'm not very good at hand grinding by any means but I find brads are actually easier than normal metal bits to freehand sharpen. It's important to dress the stone though, once it gets rounded, you can't get that inner corner between brad and the cutting edge - this is where cutoff wheel is better I guess
@@matthiaswandel Not cheap that's true, but it makes sense since it's unique enough to practically be artisan tool. But definitely look at one of the review videos, the lack of blowout on the exit looks like magic. I tried to think of a reason why it works so well, but I couldn't come up with a good answer. If anything, just by looking at the thing I'd expect it to make the blowout worse not better
I drill pilot holes with center drills. They're very stiff, because they're short and thick (which also means they won't drill very deep, but that's OK because I follow up with a regular drill bit). They're made to use in a lathe, but they work fine in a drill press. I get the cheap ones from Harbor Freight, but you can get better ones.
I got a few, but none with the narrow part small enough. Also, switching tools is annoying. Also, won't protect against the drill drifting with the grain once its further in.
Nice work Matthias, i have to try this by myself. HSS brad point drill bits are really expensive here. By the way ER collets are available in 1/4" hex. But not always easy to find for the right price.
Here in our lovely Mordor one just comes to any hardware store and buys wood drill bits - either a set or single-piece. Yes, with cylindrical shanks. Yes, in any size. Never thought it is that much of a hassle to get them on the other side of Arctic.
An old friend of mine showed me how he does essentially the same thing. However, he used a thin abrasive disc on one of his bench grinders. Of course, I can't seem to find the part number for the wheel right now. Either way, the disc mounted to the bench grinder also made some other operations really easy since you could hold the part with two hands.
@@matthiaswandel Yep. I think the discs he used were Norton brand and finer grit than a typical "cut-off" wheel. I believe they were 0.06" thick. I know I took a photo but I can't find the photo. 😕
Recently I needed about 60 16mm holes in 5mm steel. So my dad and I just took cheapest brad point bit for ~2usd, reground to regular bit, quenched it and it worked. Without resharpening. Pilot holes were 8mm maybe.
I do fiber-optic internet installation for work. Contract work, so I'm bringing my own tools. I have gotten pretty okay at regrinding drill bits freehand, even doing some custom reduced start grinds (not quite brad-point). It is a skill that can save you quite a bit of money.
Nice job . I guess you just wanted to see if you could make a Brad point bit. The quickest way would have been to just cutoff a regular brad points to make it shorter. Still very ingenious way of doing stuff,
Is it that you can't buy them online or that you can't buy them at all without the hex portion? Here in The Netherlands I've never seen those bits with the hex portion at all, and the normal stubby bits are widely available in every hardware store. Even dollar stores have them.
@matthiaswandel They might not be a dollar (besides the fact the we use euros here of course), I should probably said discount shops, but they are definitely there in some. That's why I was so surprised, because they are so common here. We just call them wood drill bits. I can get a 7-bit set at my local hardware store for 8 euros. Seperate bits are like 3 euros.
Ah never mind. I saw another comment explaining this. It's not that you can't get the brad point bits, but the stubby ones. I presumed that was just another name for brad point bits. Because in the video you used the metal bits in the beginning and said they drifted. And I immediately thought, well obviously, should've used the brad point bits. Then you are correct. In fact I've never seen shorter drill bits ever.
Very cute video. That's a lot of work :). May I suggest you use 2fluted endmills as well/instead? Also, four fluted endmills for external surfaces will do a great job and you might be interested in roughing endmills. Awesome channel, love your videos!
Very nice! I wonder if you could just ditch the tip altogether - only having the sharp, pointy "edges" of the drill bit. Make it kind of like an endmill I guess? But more for wood.
Really, no "wooddrills" without hex socket ? On the german market this pointy drills are still standard for woodworking and available almost everywhere. I hope so at least !
It's only logical that after making a wooden milling machine, the next project is a dremel-powered wooden d-bit grinder. I may not be surprised, but I'm still thoroughly impressed! 😅
@@matthiaswandel not really expensive at all, they are online for like 30 bucks, thats cheap, they save time and you dont need a ton of them, maybe just one or two sizes and you are set
@@matthiaswandel also you have a metal lathe, you can turn dowm the hex shank of those drill to a round one, cheap and easy option, no need for hex collets
Thank you again Matthias for inspiring with out of the box thinking. Trying to imitate that, would it be possible to turn the hex shank of the stubby bits down and use them this way?
JSK Koubou the Japanese genius woodworking tool making guy has an excellent video on drill sharpening and has a jig for this kind of bit. Well worth a look and easy to find.
As cool and useful as this is, it seems significantly easier to 3D-print a hexagonal collet, if one is not available. A fully 3D printed hand-drill I have fits such hexagonal ended drillbits in the hexagonal collet. And I know the right plastic at a dense enough infill will survive the pressure. But this is a case of when you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail. And the bit you made drilled cleaner than the store-bought one you have, which is impressive but shows that you got the concept right.
First you have to have a 3d printer that can print metal, and super precisely. That is FAR from easy. Orders of magnitude harder than just grinding a brad point bit.
My response was about using a plastic collet, metal 3D printing is far beyond the scope here. As long as the used material can handle the pressure, it should work with the hexagonal shape offering enough grip on the softer plastic material. Accuracy would be hard to get right with FDM, though with manual seam painting this should be consistent enough for wood drilling.
It's wood so you can kinda get away with a lot and any improvements over what you've already accomplished would be of minuscule benefit. My only suggestion would be to cut a much more aggressive relief on the back of the cutting edge. For a regular brad point the tip is probably only square due to manufacturing efficiency, I wonder how a round and perfectly centered point would work...
A round point will not have any edges to remove material, so it seems to me that it would be more likely to follow a 'soft spot' in the wood, rather than the square edged point which will be more likely to cut it's own path. Similar to the reason a bird cage is used to make a starting point in wood, rather than the round centre punch for metals.
@@syninys100 yeah, i was thinking that too it certainly seems likely, but I'm not sure it isn't actually pushing instead of cutting. A round point, provided it doesn't seek the soft stuff should theoretically keep better alignment ment. Not too dissimilar to those drill bits that have a screw tip in the center.
Very nice. What about grinding off the hex on those other bits to make them round so you can have a full set of multiple sizes? More or less the same amount of work? Ah, nm, I see someone else asked that. My bad. ;)
more tools for the toolbox. actually more tools for both toolboxes, a new drill bit for the physical toolbox, and a new process for the mental toolbox.
COOL! Matthias, have you tried the little 1" diameter diamond wheels (Amazon, etc.)? They last far far longer than Dremel carbide wheels and they don't lose their diameter in use. They are also much thinner and they don't shatter. *Very affordable* too. I have not used a carbide wheel in my Foredom or Dremel for more than a decade.
If you decide you're not happy with the drill bit you've just made after some use then buy one with a hex shank and stick it in your lathe and turn the hex round but I like the solution you decided on.
@matthiaswandel you can mount the drill using a collet chuck and there's ceramic bits specially made to cut hardened steel but I get your point your lathe probably isn't accurate enough.
You need to make some hole saws out of some steel pipe and a countersink from lathe tail stock points. Or how about some shop made cut off wheels from hand laminated fiberglass mesh and diamond dust sprinkled over sticky paper.
How much relief angle do you need behind the cutting edge to make it work? I've sharpened metal bits and they don't require much relief angle at least for drilling metal. I suppose it's similar to a lathe cutter- for metal cutting the cutters don't seem to have a lot of draft but for wood turning they use cutters that appear to be similar to wood chisels.
@@adshwartz Jacobs chuck is quicker to change tools since it can fit a large range of diameters. Collet is more accurate partly due to less moving parts and partly the fact that it's shorter than a jacobs chuck Collet provides larger contact surface with the tool so better overall grip. Collet doesn't loosen under side loads like a jacobs chuck does
Matthias, After setting the angle of approach for the brad point itself, is it easier to simply rotate the drill bit against the grinding wheel rather than swinging out, rotate, swing in, cut, swing out, rotate... etc?
@@cooperised Not when the angle to cut the brad is set. Looking at the video indicates the angle is too steep to affect the spurs, as far as I can tell. And the depth of cut for the brad isn't that deep.
@@daveduncan9005 Matthias is right, that's what I was describing - the diameter of the disc is the problem and it would intersect with the spurs as you rotated the bit.
I read that yellow plating often contains cobalt, which is cancerous when pulverised and inhaled, therefore grinding it should only be done in wet conditions.
it's titanium oxide. idk if it has cobalt, too. either way probably not heathy but so is iron dust. most safety regulation expect you to be in contact with the stuff 8h a day every day.
No, not if it's HSS. Carbon steel anneals this way, but it's virtually impossible to anneal HSS by accident (and pretty difficult to do on purpose come to that!).
@matthiaswandel the entire point of the brads is it stays on center. Worked fine for guitar work. I punch the center mark with the spindle off then energize it.
This guy is making his own drill bits while I'm out there struggling to make a straight cut
Because he is Matthias - a scientist among carpenters and a master of precision ;)
Straight cut with what?
@@urgamecshk he talks about a jigsaw I guess
Word
He's a 2 legged genius
Videos like these are always a vivid reminder to me that I don’t have to buy everything I need - there’s probably a way to make it myself. Thank you!
You have to be careful with that kind of thinking too.
Sometimes, making it yourself can end up costing you more money and/or time.
@@shawbros or fingers.
Many times I'll be in my shop doing a task and I'll say "I need to go to the store to buy this tool." but then I'll think about it more and figure out a way to do the task without spending money and wasting time driving.
@@shawbrosbut this was the prefect use case - sometimes the thing you need just doesn’t exist. So rather than give up or live with something less suitable - make it yourself!
Trips to the store tend to be surprisingly time consuming
Nice seeing MetalMatthias morphing wood, machining, milling, tool grinding...
Superb. I love the simplicity of everything you do.
My God, Matthias, you continue to blow my mind!
You take what seems unfathomable and make it doable for average folks like me.
Greatest tool life hack EVER for unused or dull drill bits!!
Matthias working with metal is really nice
I'm so happy it's finally happening
Matthias speed running the evolution of the mill
This feels like a throw back to early Woodgears videos. Enjoyed that a lot.
Love the jigs, so simple but effective
You have to love that old Jobmate high speed tool! I've broken two genuine Dremels, and another generic, but the Jobmate just keeps working. Thanks for the excellent video, I'll be making some of my own Brad point bits today, usimg my Jobmate.
Only you would think of converting one drill bit type into another! Now I have a use for the broken bits I've kept around. Also really like the idea of using heat gun to extend hot glue working time.
Ingenious - another wooden wonder! Most of us will do this job with a conventional bench grinder having a wheel with a sharp corner.
and possibly may not have to change wheel for every one...
I love how you use wood for everything!
Next make a diamond hole saw from a brad point bit.
Lol
Interesting! Just having a jig to sharpen brad point drills is a worthwhile endeavor.
Here's another thought - it looks like a lot of the stubby brad point drills that come with a hex drive have enough of a shank that I'd think a collet would get good purchase if you just cut off the hex portion. Might be worth a shot.
I recently discovered that you can cut off the hex shank and are left with a short, stiff and accurate brad bit
but almost no shank
and a really short video :)
@@matthiaswandel You can also put a hex into a round collet, just don't put the hex points into the grooves of the collet, and you will maintain good concentricity.
Matthias is the type of guy to spent 6 hours making jigs instead of buying the $3 part 😂
That would be true if the part could be bought, for $3 or otherwise, and if the jig took 3x as long to make.
You basically built a Drill Dr. for brad points. Nicely done 👍
I bought a set of brad point bits from the big Orange store that turned out to be so bad they weren't really even usable. So, I think I'm going to try this. Thank you for this idea!
A bad workman, blames his tools.
A good workman, blames himself.
A great workman, makes his own tools.
Take a factory brad point bit and line up the grind with your bench grinder. You'll see that it's easy to off-hand grind a brad point bit in very little time if you are careful with the angles (You need to be careful with the angles either way).
The radius that builds up on the corner of an undressed wheel is not even a problem. I've got a draw full of bits that I've made this way, starting with standard HSS twist drills. They work every bit as well as a factory grind.
@Matthias I make these all the time, but I just freehand them. I also use Dremel, but with a small grinding stone so I only have to make 4 cuts, first two form the cutting edges and half of the brad point, second two thin out the brad - just like you did. Wood drills are pretty forgiving on the geometry as long as they are made sharp.
Shortening works but the land (middle part of the drill) gets bigger and has to thinned
What I'd really like to try is to convert some metric drills into WoodOwl overdrive geometry (they only make imperial ones). It's supposed to have next to zero chipout on the exit side
Just looked those woodwol bits up -- not cheap!
I was keen on getting the the brad exactly in the middle because the goal was drilling holes accurately. Though it occurred to me just now, if my goal is mortises, no brad might be advantageous too.
@@matthiaswandel Use an endmill in that case, it's a lot stiffer. I suspect a brad type drill without a point will tend to walk.
I find it easy to place the point in the middle when freehand grinding by just not shifting my hold. I rotate the drill with the back hand, but I keep hold of it with my front the whole time and keep the front hand planted on the rest. I'm not very good at hand grinding by any means but I find brads are actually easier than normal metal bits to freehand sharpen. It's important to dress the stone though, once it gets rounded, you can't get that inner corner between brad and the cutting edge - this is where cutoff wheel is better I guess
@@matthiaswandel Not cheap that's true, but it makes sense since it's unique enough to practically be artisan tool. But definitely look at one of the review videos, the lack of blowout on the exit looks like magic. I tried to think of a reason why it works so well, but I couldn't come up with a good answer. If anything, just by looking at the thing I'd expect it to make the blowout worse not better
I drill pilot holes with center drills. They're very stiff, because they're short and thick (which also means they won't drill very deep, but that's OK because I follow up with a regular drill bit). They're made to use in a lathe, but they work fine in a drill press. I get the cheap ones from Harbor Freight, but you can get better ones.
I got a few, but none with the narrow part small enough. Also, switching tools is annoying. Also, won't protect against the drill drifting with the grain once its further in.
Nice work Matthias, i have to try this by myself. HSS brad point drill bits are really expensive here. By the way ER collets are available in 1/4" hex. But not always easy to find for the right price.
Just looked it up, yes, quite expensive.
Here in our lovely Mordor one just comes to any hardware store and buys wood drill bits - either a set or single-piece. Yes, with cylindrical shanks. Yes, in any size.
Never thought it is that much of a hassle to get them on the other side of Arctic.
yes, here too. But I needed a stubby one (explained in the video). Long ones are available everywhere.
@@matthiaswandel Sorry, I missed that point. Now it does make sense!
Why not convert the long ones to stubby by cutting the *other* end?
@@pfsmith01 Fluted things don't hold well in a collet
An old friend of mine showed me how he does essentially the same thing. However, he used a thin abrasive disc on one of his bench grinders. Of course, I can't seem to find the part number for the wheel right now. Either way, the disc mounted to the bench grinder also made some other operations really easy since you could hold the part with two hands.
Could also use a cut-off disk on an angle grinder
@@matthiaswandel Yep. I think the discs he used were Norton brand and finer grit than a typical "cut-off" wheel. I believe they were 0.06" thick. I know I took a photo but I can't find the photo. 😕
Recently I needed about 60 16mm holes in 5mm steel. So my dad and I just took cheapest brad point bit for ~2usd, reground to regular bit, quenched it and it worked. Without resharpening. Pilot holes were 8mm maybe.
I do fiber-optic internet installation for work. Contract work, so I'm bringing my own tools. I have gotten pretty okay at regrinding drill bits freehand, even doing some custom reduced start grinds (not quite brad-point). It is a skill that can save you quite a bit of money.
It's the best for thin sheet metal, it makes a perfectly round hole instead of a hexagonal mess.
Wouldn't it be easier to buy the hex shank brad bits and cut off the hex portion?
Cutting the brad point was much easier than it would be to grind the hex shank down precisely.
Nice job . I guess you just wanted to see if you could make a Brad point bit. The quickest way would have been to just cutoff a regular brad points to make it shorter. Still very ingenious way of doing stuff,
I've been doing this for 50 years, also making drills for flat bottom holes. 😊
Cool to see that that this can be done. I'll just use a center punch though.
Making a brad point drill from a cut off bit. You're sick man.
DeWalt makes "Pilot Point" drill bits which accomplishes a lot of what you're trying to do.
I wanted a short brad point bit. Those bits are neither short, nor brad point. In what way do they accomplish what I was doing?
Once again i learn somthing from u.
Thank u my friend❤
If you made another bit holding clamp that angled the drill down by ~5 degrees you could use it to cut the relief angle instead of free-handing it.
I already have the rotary tool holder. I made it a long time ago. I guess I need to make the pivoting arm for it.
Honestly, this is probably the funniest thing out there today.
Really interesting work, Matthias!!! 😮
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Sorry Matthias, mit Deinen weiten losen Ärmelenden an der Bohrmaschine machst Du mich ganz wuschig....bleib gesund!
Is it that you can't buy them online or that you can't buy them at all without the hex portion? Here in The Netherlands I've never seen those bits with the hex portion at all, and the normal stubby bits are widely available in every hardware store. Even dollar stores have them.
Stubby ones as brad point bits from a dollar store? I doubt it.
@matthiaswandel They might not be a dollar (besides the fact the we use euros here of course), I should probably said discount shops, but they are definitely there in some. That's why I was so surprised, because they are so common here. We just call them wood drill bits. I can get a 7-bit set at my local hardware store for 8 euros. Seperate bits are like 3 euros.
Ah never mind. I saw another comment explaining this. It's not that you can't get the brad point bits, but the stubby ones. I presumed that was just another name for brad point bits. Because in the video you used the metal bits in the beginning and said they drifted. And I immediately thought, well obviously, should've used the brad point bits.
Then you are correct. In fact I've never seen shorter drill bits ever.
Very cute video. That's a lot of work :). May I suggest you use 2fluted endmills as well/instead? Also, four fluted endmills for external surfaces will do a great job and you might be interested in roughing endmills. Awesome channel, love your videos!
hard to get in just the right diameter.m Only took an hour to make this one, and that's the first time I tried it.
I have done this many times, I just use a bench grinder. Brad point is great for jigs,
Most the hex shank bits are just stamped or glued on and come off with a little heat.
at which point I would have no shank at all
Good rig, you wouldn't be ready for mass production, but it would work for a dozen, and for sharpening.
Very nice! I wonder if you could just ditch the tip altogether - only having the sharp, pointy "edges" of the drill bit.
Make it kind of like an endmill I guess? But more for wood.
Now we need a drill bit sharpener setup
Really, no "wooddrills" without hex socket ? On the german market this pointy drills are still standard for woodworking and available almost everywhere. I hope so at least !
He said he couldn't find stubby brad point bits in round shank. Stubby are short length drill bits. Which would be rare items for woodworking.
It's only logical that after making a wooden milling machine, the next project is a dremel-powered wooden d-bit grinder.
I may not be surprised, but I'm still thoroughly impressed! 😅
Nice skills
I just bought a Makita battery router and a Bosch sander thing, the hand held one with a cord.
Looks like you were using a collet at the end, would have liked to seen a comparison using the drill chuck and if it still wanders.
I used the collet primarily because its shorter, so less opportunity for flex. Of course, its also stiffer.
you can buy hex collets for holding hex stock or even square ones
buy?!
Looked it up, quite expensive!
@@matthiaswandel not really expensive at all, they are online for like 30 bucks, thats cheap, they save time and you dont need a ton of them, maybe just one or two sizes and you are set
@@matthiaswandel also you have a metal lathe, you can turn dowm the hex shank of those drill to a round one, cheap and easy option, no need for hex collets
Thank you again Matthias for inspiring with out of the box thinking.
Trying to imitate that, would it be possible to turn the hex shank of the stubby bits down and use them this way?
Would be more difficult than grinding the brad point
Molto interessante il braccio oscillante per "dremel like" sempre un passo avanti!
JSK Koubou the Japanese genius woodworking tool making guy has an excellent video on drill sharpening and has a jig for this kind of bit. Well worth a look and easy to find.
If you just cut them down at the other end can they still be tightened in the chuck? Or is that not so good with the spiral
Certainly wouldn't work with the 3 jaw chuck. Might work with the collet, but will bugger up the collet.
As cool and useful as this is, it seems significantly easier to 3D-print a hexagonal collet, if one is not available.
A fully 3D printed hand-drill I have fits such hexagonal ended drillbits in the hexagonal collet.
And I know the right plastic at a dense enough infill will survive the pressure.
But this is a case of when you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
And the bit you made drilled cleaner than the store-bought one you have, which is impressive but shows that you got the concept right.
First you have to have a 3d printer that can print metal, and super precisely. That is FAR from easy. Orders of magnitude harder than just grinding a brad point bit.
My response was about using a plastic collet, metal 3D printing is far beyond the scope here.
As long as the used material can handle the pressure, it should work with the hexagonal shape offering enough grip on the softer plastic material.
Accuracy would be hard to get right with FDM, though with manual seam painting this should be consistent enough for wood drilling.
You can get Collets, not only in Round holes, but Hex and Square .....
yes but expensive.
You can also just put hex bits into a collet fwiw, if you already have them
haven't got one, and they are expensive. Also haven't got the hex bit. Grinding a brad point was the easiest solution.
It's wood so you can kinda get away with a lot and any improvements over what you've already accomplished would be of minuscule benefit. My only suggestion would be to cut a much more aggressive relief on the back of the cutting edge.
For a regular brad point the tip is probably only square due to manufacturing efficiency, I wonder how a round and perfectly centered point would work...
A round point will not have any edges to remove material, so it seems to me that it would be more likely to follow a 'soft spot' in the wood, rather than the square edged point which will be more likely to cut it's own path. Similar to the reason a bird cage is used to make a starting point in wood, rather than the round centre punch for metals.
@@syninys100 yeah, i was thinking that too it certainly seems likely, but I'm not sure it isn't actually pushing instead of cutting. A round point, provided it doesn't seek the soft stuff should theoretically keep better alignment ment. Not too dissimilar to those drill bits that have a screw tip in the center.
Such a bit would be good for thin sheet metal. Would dull sooner, though.
Plans for a wooden d-bit grinder next week?
Very nice. What about grinding off the hex on those other bits to make them round so you can have a full set of multiple sizes? More or less the same amount of work?
Ah, nm, I see someone else asked that. My bad. ;)
how about just grinding the brad point instead? Easier and faster
more tools for the toolbox. actually more tools for both toolboxes, a new drill bit for the physical toolbox, and a new process for the mental toolbox.
COOL! Matthias, have you tried the little 1" diameter diamond wheels (Amazon, etc.)? They last far far longer than Dremel carbide wheels and they don't lose their diameter in use. They are also much thinner and they don't shatter. *Very affordable* too. I have not used a carbide wheel in my Foredom or Dremel for more than a decade.
Have one, but I like the cheap little cut-off disks myself. Also, I don't know if the diamond disk cuts with its edge
If you decide you're not happy with the drill bit you've just made after some use then buy one with a hex shank and stick it in your lathe and turn the hex round but I like the solution you decided on.
Hardened steel is too hard to turn. Also, how to mount the drill so its perfectly centered? Grinding the brad point is easier and faster
@matthiaswandel you can mount the drill using a collet chuck and there's ceramic bits specially made to cut hardened steel but I get your point your lathe probably isn't accurate enough.
This is the best thing a person that uses drill bits can learn... how to sharpen them.
СПАСИБО давно мечтал о таком видео
You need to make some hole saws out of some steel pipe and a countersink from lathe tail stock points. Or how about some shop made cut off wheels from hand laminated fiberglass mesh and diamond dust sprinkled over sticky paper.
Why not get the hex drive type and grind them round?
cause this is much easier
Hmmm, maybe I should revisit my cheap brad point bits, which leave fuzz.
How much relief angle do you need behind the cutting edge to make it work? I've sharpened metal bits and they don't require much relief angle at least for drilling metal. I suppose it's similar to a lathe cutter- for metal cutting the cutters don't seem to have a lot of draft but for wood turning they use cutters that appear to be similar to wood chisels.
I guess It depends on how fast you want to drill.
Well done, but would it not be less time consuming to round the shank of a hex stubby or would that remove to much material?
No, that would be much harder to get precise
@@matthiaswandel I suppose because of the flutes it would be difficult mount in a lathe, your method works well.
Every machine turns into a slot mortiser.
👍great video
you can get 1/4" hex collets but this is way more fun
those collets are expensive!
@@matthiaswandel they are not too bad in the states. we will see in a few weeks. A homemade EDM machine could be the way to go
@@billberger i know what is much cheaper than that - taking an old drill bit and grinding it into a brad point bit
@@bmxscape😂😂😂
You could turn the hex down to round.
Its too hard for turning. Easier to take a bit I already have and grind a brad point on it.
Fun to watch, but you could just get a 1/4" Hexagonal ER collet.
Have to order it first, and those are expensive
Is it possible to just cut of the hex part of the stubby drills you can buy?
then there's no shank
Hex collets exist too though.
Just who is this Brad guy and why does everyone like his points so much lol
Who's Brad?
Nice😊
Was rotating the bit and keeping the dremel in a fixed position not an option for some of the cuts?
Cuts the outer points off as it rotates. Also, easier this way.
The hex drill bits work fine in a chuck.
The cheaper ones, the hex part breaks off afyer couple of uses anyway 😅
Works fine in a chuck, but messes up a collet
@matthiaswandel whats the advantage of collet over Chuck?
@@adshwartz Jacobs chuck is quicker to change tools since it can fit a large range of diameters.
Collet is more accurate partly due to less moving parts and partly the fact that it's shorter than a jacobs chuck
Collet provides larger contact surface with the tool so better overall grip.
Collet doesn't loosen under side loads like a jacobs chuck does
Matthias,
After setting the angle of approach for the brad point itself, is it easier to simply rotate the drill bit against the grinding wheel rather than swinging out, rotate, swing in, cut, swing out, rotate... etc?
That would also grind off most of the spurs, because of where the rest of the cutoff disc would end up as the bit was rotated.
@@cooperised Not when the angle to cut the brad is set. Looking at the video indicates the angle is too steep to affect the spurs, as far as I can tell. And the depth of cut for the brad isn't that deep.
It would also make the central point round, which is not desirable
It would cut the spurs. Doesn't matter how steep the angle is set to, its the diameter of the disk that's a problem.
@@daveduncan9005 Matthias is right, that's what I was describing - the diameter of the disc is the problem and it would intersect with the spurs as you rotated the bit.
I read that yellow plating often contains cobalt, which is cancerous when pulverised and inhaled, therefore grinding it should only be done in wet conditions.
it's titanium oxide. idk if it has cobalt, too. either way probably not heathy but so is iron dust. most safety regulation expect you to be in contact with the stuff 8h a day every day.
The cobalt is usually in the bit itself rather than the coating, but you'll know if you have a cobalt bit because they're expensive!
So, you're telling me I shouldn't snort the powder made grinding? I swear everything fun is just bad for me.
did you try looking for a 1/4" hex collet?
No. Didn't know there was such a thing, and they are expensive. This was cheap, quick and easy.
Now make one out of the hex key that comes with ikea furniture.
Intersting. But those things are often not very hard. And grinding the spiral flutes is non trivial.
Wont the heat take the temper out fo the drill bit?
No, not if it's HSS. Carbon steel anneals this way, but it's virtually impossible to anneal HSS by accident (and pretty difficult to do on purpose come to that!).
Sadly, its probably just high carbon steel. HSS doesn't make that kind of spark.
@@cooperised Awesome, thanks for the info!
Who needs a mill when you have a dremel and wood
and a mill wouldn't even be that useful as this is a grinding operation, not a milling operation
Lee valley has brad point bits... I have a full set!
I have brand pint bits too, but I wanted a stubby one
@matthiaswandel the entire point of the brads is it stays on center. Worked fine for guitar work. I punch the center mark with the spindle off then energize it.
Run bit in reverse when you first bring it into contact with surface
Too much trouble. Also, no reverse on that machine.
@@matthiaswandel 10-4, works very well in many situations with handheld
Would a router bit not be better?
and where do I get a 5 mm router bit? Also, those router bits don't have brad points, so more tearout.
@matthiaswandel mcmaster carr?
i was just curious. This is also cheaper probably :)
I thought that the Drill Doctor sharpener could do that.
Actually you can get hex collets.
expensive though
Why not turn a hex shank round on your lathe?
cause getting that just right for a coller is harder than grinding the brad point. Plus, I'd have to buy the hex shank bit first.