Im a mechanic 25 years and ive never seen so much aggro doing a cv boot,ive used methods like this before and the cv boots are rubbish,itll be burst again in less than a year,just do the job correctly and use the proper boots,job done!!!
LOTS EASIER TO PULL THE AXLE, PULL THE JOINT OFF THE SPLINES, CLEAN AND INSPECT, PUT NEW BOOT ON SHAFT, REINSTALL JOINT, REINSTALL AXLE. THE WAY SHOWN GAURANTEES THERE WILL BE CONTAMINANTS INSIDE THE BOOT.
Yeah baby! I've been fighting this for over 2 weeks. I have a '93 GMC Jimmy. Yes. I said '93. I bought this heap, used. Now, how many people drive the same vehicle for over 24 years? I decided to replace the spark plugs. BUT I can't get to the plugs on the driver side unless I remove the tire AND the inner fender. Brilliant engineering! While doing this, I noticed one of my CV boots was split and leaking grease. I thought that it was the inner boot. But after removing the tire and ball joints, I noticed that it was the outer boot that was split. I intended to replace both boots. This requires pulling the axle. But it finally dawned on me to get the split boot that I just wrap around the axle, and seal it with adhesive (from Rock Auto). Our local Car Quest doesn't have the split boot. I was not aware of the installation cone. Thanks. The inner boot is OK. I installed all four boots after I bought the Jimmy. That was in 1997, 24 years ago. I decided to replace the upper and lower ball joints while doing this. My rust-bucket isn't clean as the one in the video. With all the grease on the larger end of the boot, I found that it slips off before I can clamp it. I noticed that the lug nuts weren't torqued to specs. I tighten the hub nut by putting my weight on a 3/4" drive ratchet. Very informative video. THANKS
People, people, the man is demonstrating how to use the cone tool. Here's a suggestion. Do reversal of boot once it's on the tool before putting it over the cv joint. Once expanded small end goes over the cv joint you install the retaining metal clamps or use big wire ties instead and trim as necessary.
I’ve done these dozens of times using stretch boots, takes about 20 minutes. I use a towel to grip the boot and slide it up the cone. Some cars it’s easier to unclip the joint sometimes you can undo the bottom ball joint, spread the clip and slide the joint off still in the hub and slip the new boot in. There’s always a manufacturer method and then there’s the mechanics method which takes half the time. And a couple of times I did old cavaliers that I could just spread the clip and the shaft slipped back enough to get a boot in, took a few minutes. But not all cavaliers had that amount of slop. Some, like the volvos had the joint glued into the hub and good luck getting those out . Even used sticky boots with the glue seam. Done properly they last well enough. Just need to wrap everything in cling film to stop grease spoiling the glueing operation.
i disagree, there is the factory way and then there is the shady mechanic way. if the boot is torn water and dirt has gotten in. the grease is probably tan looking. the shaft should be pulled and cleaned/disassembled. There are no short cuts in automotive repair. the generic boots are thinner than OEM boots so they can stretch........so do it right the first time OR do it again/ CV joint failure later on.
This looks handy, BUT only in case this is your only option. Personally, i will always prefer to remove the CV joint and replace the boot this way - it is cleaner and does no require all that lubrication. Plus, you can inspect the CV joint itself. Overall, it looks like you know what you are doing - using the torque wrench, using thread lock, etc. but that cone should be a plan B type of action. :)
On my car it was cheaper to just replace the whole axel than buy two replacement boots. But it is also easy to separate at the second joint and slide both boots on, assuming you can get the right parts.
Yeah I just did my axle instead of replacing the boot.. Inner boot = $26, Outer boot = $22. Whole Axle = $68.. Idk how long it has been running with the busted boot and being in rust belt, I did not feel like $48 fix (rebooting) was worth the $20 saving over just replacing the axle all together..
I've replaced the driver side axle 3 times and they all vibrate like the cv joints are bad. I replaced the oem part, not because it was bad or vibrating, but because I had the new part when the rest of the suspension was rebuilt. Now, I want to put the OEM unit back in with new grease and boots. At least it was not vibrating.
OMG!! I got aggravated just watching this. All that work. And “special” tool. Cut the old off. Pull the retainer clip take cv apart. Clean it up put new boot on put back together. Done! Bad simply bad idea!
not being a smart ass but sometimes you cannot get the cv joint off the axel. Ive had a lot of them lately and you can beat it till the cows come home and they will not come. I just replace the axel
Back when I worked in a transmission shop we did 4 transmissions a day fwd mostly that's 8 times in and out with the boss yelling hurry hurrrrrryyyy all dam day at me lmao so whole transmission R.R about half hour In and out on a lift so huge difference in a lift and yes take the cv out to work on it twice as fast sometimes it's just faster to take them out my old boss would have beaten me for this kind of work
Personally I prefer the old way. This is to much hassle. I tried it several years ago. By the sounds in this video instruction you also need an Oxygen cylinder. However good video.
Just a few extra tips. Hitting the ball joint side usually works. Never hit the ball joint stud without the nut at its end with light taps & only if you have to. Clamp type separators are better than "pickle" forks but can also cut the boot. Most can be pushed down with your thumbs. Clean axle splines w/a high rpm wire wheel & grease. It'll go back thru the hub easier.
split boots used here for yrs... they DO work but the reason for all the comments about failure result from contamination of the seams while people are putting it in place ..this leads to early failure as it lets go in the spot if the tiniest bit of oil or grease are present in the seam... trick for lasting results is to have the area Hospital clean and drape clean rags or use newspaper over and around Anything that could possiblly come into contact with the open seams that are already coated with thge glue and ready to be joined..The prep is the hardest part! the other factor for sucess is proper application of the glue and correctly seating the seam.. do trial runs without glue so u know how it goes together..once the glue is applied, ur gonna get One chance to press it together!...u cant pull it apart and try again...alot of factors make this tedious and nerve wracking to do but it Can work and hold up great.
You can pretty clearly see that the surface in the hole isn't moving, and is 99.999% likely to be the CV boot tool. As soon as he started stretching that thing I said "NOPE. NOT DOING THAT."
Holy crap. You can hear it tearing too. That is a hole, you can see it expanding a few seconds before he turns it around. On top of this I don't see them cleaning off some of the old grease. If there is any dirt or debris in the axle then you're gonna have to replace the axle in the near future. I personally can't recommend this method. It's a cutting-corners method. Sometimes its best to take the extra time and do things the right way.
Yup. Definite hole. You can see it actually come around from the left at 7:33. This guys a dumb ass. The boot was reversing it'self as he pushed it off. There was no need to insist that it go onto the axle inside out. If he'd have changed his gloves, wiped the oil off the boot, and applies slow and steady pressure, it would have come off on the axle already right side out.
@@LuxxyHD Yes! at 7:32 you just see the top edge of the white label through the hole as it spins around. Looks like it got torn on edge of the control arm when he put his foot on the cone and pressed everything on the arm then kept forcing the boot
Thanks. It works. It's cheaper and takes less time and difficulties than replacing the whole driveaxle or taking off the joint. I wish the boot rubber could be strong and last long enough. Really helpful.
It takes 10 secs to knock the CV Joint off the Shaft to easily replace the Boot, no need for all this nonsense when you've gone so far as removed almost the whole thing anyway. Silly Video.
Well documented and very helpful. Thought of replacing entire drive shaft but only the boots are cracked. Where can we buy this tool? I didn't know it would stretch that much. Like delivering a baby.
If the outer joint won't separate and the inner is in good condition it may in some circumstances be worthwhile using this method which also would negate having to disturb the transmission seal (if the car has one) however you should clean out the joint as much as possible before repacking and when lubing the cone use the CV grease not engine oil.
I do outer boots still on the car, I'm just careful to not pull the shaft while I tap off the joint, a mate or maul grips and cable ties usually work! You can get split CV boots now which glue together, they make sense (although I wouldn't personally install one a non mechanic without specialist tools could use one which is cool) but this, as he's cracked the ball joints anyway I don't get why he wouldn't just pull the joint and clean the greese, inspect the snap ring and all that, this is madness in my eyes......
@@onewhoknowsrevenge6807 depends what kind of car is. You know some car will leak gear oil if you remove the driveshaft. And there are special boots for the insert over and cost 7$...wich you can use with a pneumatic tool wich cost 100$ (or this cone).
well why dont you? its been 2 years, surely your pro by now? come on, the OP surely has read your post and is waiting very patiently for you to show the easiest way without that much mess
Great video, no waffle either, say only what's needed. Thank you. Maybe use cleaner on the axle shaft and head before start the job so all that road dirt build up doesn't go inside with the grease. Also since the axle flops around as still on the inner knuckle, and both sides need new boots, it's almost worth making a bracket to hold tight the axle while fitting the oily new boot.
44 years a mechanic, that wheel bearing looks as if it's been toasted,all that work ,easier to remove the joint if it has a clip that's accessible, if not remove the complete shift, strip inner joint and put new boot on from inner side,no need in most cases to disturb shocker bolts,disconnect lower ball joint,and he didn't decrease and pressure clean,untidy work.
I've just paid £90 to get my CV boot replaced for a MOT failure. Thought I'd been ripped off until I seen you do it. Now I'm happy I paid the £90. Sack that shit... lol
Having already removed the wheel, the brakes disc and pads, the steering joints etc it would be far easier to completely remove the shaft, as you have done most of the work. But If you wanted an easy method, a split boot is far easier and quicker as well as less damaging for the new boot.
@@eltonnoway5692 I've fitted three so far, and if you take your time you and keep your hands clean it's a quick and easy job, that will last as long as a conventional boot.
Also, sometimes the inner joint (often a tripode) can be removed more easily, especially if hub attachment a super-complicated 4x4 Locking Assembly or Fully Floating Axle etc.
Ok, first of all, why are you using those gloves? Use disposable and change them once your hands get too greasy. Secondly, Dude, you struggled needlessly getting it off the cone if you have just let it reverse it'self as you pushed it off, it would have saved you a step.
Nice video but I did this today with no cone. I just flipped the boot inside out and stretched over joints by hand. This was on a 2004 Celica. Did the inner boots without having to disassemble the whole knuckles/spindles.
Great video! Nice steady camera and bright lighting. The voice-over is a nice touch and it sounds very professional-like. The use of the lubricant and brush in the pail is a neat and useful tip. Thank you!
07:33 - 07:36 - there is a hole in a brand new CV shaft boot already. Its kinda hard to see, but its 100% there. Try 0,25x speed. Its there - its hard visible, because the cone itself is dark, but... I get it. Its very hard to do it that way, but...This was not successful.
I get the concept of using a pull over boot like this but it can’t be good on the boot to stretch way beyond its intended size. And if it’s that flimsy it probably won’t last very long. I’ve see split boots that if done right look like they would be a better replacement.
Using a cone: Lubricate external of new boot. Slide small end over the cone. Push down to turn new boot inside out. Push larger end of boot that is inside out over drive shaft. Stretch the smaller end over the wide area of the cone? Will it stretch that much without tearing? Pull the wide end of boot back over the shaft, turning it outside out. I have the Car Quest outer boot. The smaller diameter WILL NOT stretch that much. I have both the inner and outer boots, but Car Quest has the same part number for both. For my "93 Jimmy, it is 85 1103. But one boot is longer than the other. Did I miss something? This is not my first rodeo. I replaced both inner and outer boots for both sides after I bought the Jimmy in 1997 . I removed both axles to replace the boots. It seems that it wasn't that hard 24 years ago.
if the boot was torn water and dirt has gotten in. you need to pull the shaft , clean everything and take apart. there are no short cuts in automotive repair, the above video will not work anyway on the inner boot. the one that needs replacing most of the time. the OEM boots are much stronger that generic boots
I would have never believed this if I had not seen it. Hard to believe that that small inner hole could be stretched that far... I have changed the outer boot many times when i could not get the shaft out, I released the inside clip on the outer c/v joint and pulled it...
I would believe this boot is cheap something like plastic with some rubber mixture and how long it will last since my honda real boot seems impossible to stretch that much
i came here for a refresher on how to do this but i have multiple problems w this video. first off you dont have to remove the caliper support, shock absorber or the tie rod end if you just take apart the control arm at the ball joint. secondly you ripped the boot and still put it on you can clearly see its ripped at 7:34
I would have thought you could wrap some gaffer tape around the joint teeth for boot protection, and done the same job without the cone, but I am probably wrong.
you like to make work for yourself, no need to remove the caliper, or track rod end or strut nuts, just undo bottom ball joint and use a crow bar to prize it down.
better yet, unbolt the ball joint and bolt it back on when done, no need to take the ball out from the tight spot when you can unbolt it from the other side and realign it when done, just mark it up well and its even easier, though its a shit job that lands you right in the greaselands...
can you reuse the 6 inner flange bolts, the ones that secure the cv axle to the differential, or they have to be changed every time? I have a cv axle to replace tomorrow.
So many things wrongly done. 1. Undo hub nut on the ground. 2. No need to undo anything on the strut except lower ball on wishbone. 2. Clean the CV joint sparkling with tissue and brake cleaner. The old grease has dirt in it that will wear out the CV joint. Moisture and oil will make the grease fail. 3. Use only silicone lube on the cone. Oil will absorb into the CV boot and weaken it. Oil on the boot exterior will stick dirt to it and again creates sandpaper in the CV boot grooves that will shorten it's life. Clean the boot. 4. Do not pack the new grease onto the boot. Grease in the boot will make it deform at high revs and again shorten it's life and create vibration. 5. Don't use all the grease, only pack the joint. The boot it designed to " throw" grease onto the ball joint while rotating if it comes out.
Please, can worn-out or bad inner cv joint cause ABS light on? I asked because immediately I changed the cv axle joint, I began to hear like cracking nose. Please, what could be the problem?
I did my CV boot with an over the CV joint method.. was nowhere near as hard as shown in this video.. I only took the driveshaft nut off and the lower suspension joint nut off, was enough room to swing the whole suspension to get the drive shaft out of the wheel hub, and then just push the suspension assembly to one side as I fitted the new CV boot - no taking of the track rod off nor anything to do with the brake caliper. To be on the safe side I also put the new CV boot in some hot water - I guess it was not necessary as it easily slid over the cone... and I am 66 !
yeah, don't do this. he's getting all sorts of dirt in the boot and thus the joint, and not cleaning any of the dirt that may have gotten in from the bad boot. Doing this correctly only takes a few more steps if you want to replace just the boot, and ensures longer life of the part. Or just replace the whole axle to be safe and it's way easier. You don't want to be stranded somewhere because your joint fails, or worse damage other parts of the car if the axle comes loose, or even loose control while driving.
@@pochron1105 Yes some time ago haha, how long has the boot lasted? I do a lot of 4wd so this kind of technique I would not do due to the amount of stress and angles my CV's would be at so rather not have them half thrashed before they even get used.
@@benjaminprince6424 Makes sense ... but who knows! It actually came out very neat and I didn't have any issues or early wear. Probably the repair itself was less stressful than in the video above too. ;) I won't be surprised if it keeps going for ages.
This is a perfect method if you live in Cuba or some other third-world countries where you cannot afford to buy a new CV joint and labor cost is like nothing BUT not in America when an axle shaft is so cheap...
Its for diy, so your labour cost is £0.. Most aftermarket driveshaft cause wobbles. Especially on honda and really common on the fords. You'll loose gearbox oil aswell if you pop the shaft out.
That CV axle boot goes out you might as well do the whole front end to avoid about 5 front end alignments the next 2 years. The hub,rotor,brake pads, ball joint,control arm bushings,sway bar bushings..if you do things right life don't seem so bad..you can buy one coke at a time for $1.50 or get a 6 pack for 2.79..choice is yours
It is safe to do it when it just happened, providing NO dirt/contaminants entered the CV joint. It broke because rubber breaks down due to heat and twisting. All CV boots break at some point or another.
For crying out loud. Get a new or even a rebuilt axle. Half the job is spent on the boot replace. Boots that are ripped click on turns before anyone even knows they’re torn. So, they’re already beyond this type of fix.
Magne Olav Holan not really you obviously do not do this all the time , most cars are very hard to just knock CV joints off is most of the time not real , one CV joint i did was seized on and i had to grind it off
Im a mechanic 25 years and ive never seen so much aggro doing a cv boot,ive used methods like this before and the cv boots are rubbish,itll be burst again in less than a year,just do the job correctly and use the proper boots,job done!!!
What? Take off the CV using special tools. This is so much easier it's worth a shot
If you take a bigger cone, then there’s no need to remove a wheel!
😂 😂 😂 😂 O
I haven't laughed so hard in years 😂😂😂
It’s funnier if you say it in a female robotic voice!
Lmao
😂
Take it steady on the guy he’s having a go with what tools he has and he did it job sorted so what’s wrong with that
LOTS EASIER TO PULL THE AXLE, PULL THE JOINT OFF THE SPLINES, CLEAN AND INSPECT, PUT NEW BOOT ON SHAFT, REINSTALL JOINT, REINSTALL AXLE. THE WAY SHOWN GAURANTEES THERE WILL BE CONTAMINANTS INSIDE THE BOOT.
Haven’t seen this much “NOPE!” in any one TH-cam video in quite a while. Thank you.
Yeah baby! I've been fighting this for over 2 weeks. I have a '93 GMC Jimmy. Yes. I said '93. I bought this heap, used. Now, how many people drive the same vehicle for over 24 years? I decided to replace the spark plugs. BUT I can't get to the plugs on the driver side unless I remove the tire AND the inner fender. Brilliant engineering! While doing this, I noticed one of my CV boots was split and leaking grease. I thought that it was the inner boot. But after removing the tire and ball joints, I noticed that it was the outer boot that was split. I intended to replace both boots. This requires pulling the axle. But it finally dawned on me to get the split boot that I just wrap around the axle, and seal it with adhesive (from Rock Auto). Our local Car Quest doesn't have the split boot. I was not aware of the installation cone. Thanks. The inner boot is OK. I installed all four boots after I bought the Jimmy. That was in 1997, 24 years ago.
I decided to replace the upper and lower ball joints while doing this. My rust-bucket isn't clean as the one in the video. With all the grease on the larger end of the boot, I found that it slips off before I can clamp it.
I noticed that the lug nuts weren't torqued to specs. I tighten the hub nut by putting my weight on a 3/4" drive ratchet.
Very informative video. THANKS
People, people, the man is demonstrating how to use the cone tool. Here's a suggestion. Do reversal of boot once it's on the tool before putting it over the cv joint. Once expanded small end goes over the cv joint you install the retaining metal clamps or use big wire ties instead and trim as necessary.
I’ve done these dozens of times using stretch boots, takes about 20 minutes. I use a towel to grip the boot and slide it up the cone. Some cars it’s easier to unclip the joint sometimes you can undo the bottom ball joint, spread the clip and slide the joint off still in the hub and slip the new boot in. There’s always a manufacturer method and then there’s the mechanics method which takes half the time. And a couple of times I did old cavaliers that I could just spread the clip and the shaft slipped back enough to get a boot in, took a few minutes. But not all cavaliers had that amount of slop. Some, like the volvos had the joint glued into the hub and good luck getting those out . Even used sticky boots with the glue seam. Done properly they last well enough. Just need to wrap everything in cling film to stop grease spoiling the glueing operation.
i disagree, there is the factory way and then there is the shady mechanic way. if the boot is torn water and dirt has gotten in. the grease is probably tan looking. the shaft should be pulled and cleaned/disassembled. There are no short cuts in automotive repair. the generic boots are thinner than OEM boots so they can stretch........so do it right the first time OR do it again/ CV joint failure later on.
This looks handy, BUT only in case this is your only option. Personally, i will always prefer to remove the CV joint and replace the boot this way - it is cleaner and does no require all that lubrication. Plus, you can inspect the CV joint itself. Overall, it looks like you know what you are doing - using the torque wrench, using thread lock, etc. but that cone should be a plan B type of action. :)
Right my 56 year old finger just won’t work like that. Much easier to just separate it.
On my car it was cheaper to just replace the whole axel than buy two replacement boots. But it is also easy to separate at the second joint and slide both boots on, assuming you can get the right parts.
Yeah I just did my axle instead of replacing the boot.. Inner boot = $26, Outer boot = $22. Whole Axle = $68.. Idk how long it has been running with the busted boot and being in rust belt, I did not feel like $48 fix (rebooting) was worth the $20 saving over just replacing the axle all together..
I've replaced the driver side axle 3 times and they all vibrate like the cv joints are bad. I replaced the oem part, not because it was bad or vibrating, but because I had the new part when the rest of the suspension was rebuilt. Now, I want to put the OEM unit back in with new grease and boots. At least it was not vibrating.
@@hemizon1I'm doing the same. Putting my original axle back with the new boot. These cheap Chinese made crap are crap.
OMG!! I got aggravated just watching this. All that work. And “special” tool. Cut the old off. Pull the retainer clip take cv apart. Clean it up put new boot on put back together. Done! Bad simply bad idea!
not being a smart ass but sometimes you cannot get the cv joint off the axel. Ive had a lot of them lately and you can beat it till the cows come home and they will not come. I just replace the axel
I agree. This is the most retarded way of doing a cv boot. Absolute mongaloid way of going on.
Greg Cobert The joint itself pulls right apart. No need to beat anything.
Not everyone has space or a workshop to do that.
pro tip! You can remove the clamps by turning the wheel so you can see the connection point for the clamps, then you can just pinch it with a tang :D
If it ain't broke, this channel will "fix it" until it is.
I don't like this procedure. Why not clean old grease on CV joint and put new again?
Back when I worked in a transmission shop we did 4 transmissions a day fwd mostly that's 8 times in and out with the boss yelling hurry hurrrrrryyyy all dam day at me lmao so whole transmission R.R about half hour In and out on a lift so huge difference in a lift and yes take the cv out to work on it twice as fast sometimes it's just faster to take them out my old boss would have beaten me for this kind of work
So many negative comments. He got the job done. That's all that matters.
Personally I prefer the old way. This is to much hassle. I tried it several years ago. By the sounds in this video instruction you also need an Oxygen cylinder. However good video.
lol. indeed. and your comment made my day
Lol very true! and a whole new wardrobe, his clothes are ruined by the excess handling of grease
@@floydkingi4364poisonous if I what I read is true. Should have warned about that here
Just a few extra tips.
Hitting the ball joint side usually works. Never hit the ball joint stud without the nut at its end with light taps & only if you have to. Clamp type separators are better than "pickle" forks but can also cut the boot. Most can be pushed down with your thumbs. Clean axle splines w/a high rpm wire wheel & grease. It'll go back thru the hub easier.
Dang glad I’m going with the easy split boot they make now days 👍
Not in the UK your not,they are illegal over here.☹️
split boots used here for yrs... they DO work but the reason for all the comments about failure result from contamination of the seams while people are putting it in place ..this leads to early failure as it lets go in the spot if the tiniest bit of oil or grease are present in the seam... trick for lasting results is to have the area Hospital clean and drape clean rags or use newspaper over and around Anything that could possiblly come into contact with the open seams that are already coated with thge glue and ready to be joined..The prep is the hardest part! the other factor for sucess is proper application of the glue and correctly seating the seam.. do trial runs without glue so u know how it goes together..once the glue is applied, ur gonna get One chance to press it together!...u cant pull it apart and try again...alot of factors make this tedious and nerve wracking to do but it Can work and hold up great.
Thanks;
Very good ,
Except you don't
have to remove the
brake caliper at all .
OMG, the hole in the cv boot at 7:34 :O
I don't think that was a hole I think it was just some grease, I hope so anyways.
You can pretty clearly see that the surface in the hole isn't moving, and is 99.999% likely to be the CV boot tool. As soon as he started stretching that thing I said "NOPE. NOT DOING THAT."
Holy crap. You can hear it tearing too. That is a hole, you can see it expanding a few seconds before he turns it around. On top of this I don't see them cleaning off some of the old grease. If there is any dirt or debris in the axle then you're gonna have to replace the axle in the near future. I personally can't recommend this method. It's a cutting-corners method. Sometimes its best to take the extra time and do things the right way.
Yup. Definite hole. You can see it actually come around from the left at 7:33. This guys a dumb ass. The boot was reversing it'self as he pushed it off. There was no need to insist that it go onto the axle inside out. If he'd have changed his gloves, wiped the oil off the boot, and applies slow and steady pressure, it would have come off on the axle already right side out.
its like prom night all over again
Scotty would be so proud!
lol... I don't think that CV boot is supposed to stretch that much! Note the HOLE at 7:36 !!! LOL!
Paul Gibbons that’s no hole
@@LuxxyHD Yes! at 7:32 you just see the top edge of the white label through the hole as it spins around. Looks like it got torn on edge of the control arm when he put his foot on the cone and pressed everything on the arm then kept forcing the boot
7:33 This video should be renamed. Replace split CV boot with another split CV boot.
I like the way she says “drib shaft” and the straightforward removal of the first oetiker clamp...
Thanks. It works. It's cheaper and takes less time and difficulties than replacing the whole driveaxle or taking off the joint. I wish the boot rubber could be strong and last long enough. Really helpful.
It takes 10 secs to knock the CV Joint off the Shaft to easily replace the Boot, no need for all this nonsense when you've gone so far as removed almost the whole thing anyway. Silly Video.
Well documented and very helpful. Thought of replacing entire drive shaft but only the boots are cracked. Where can we buy this tool? I didn't know it would stretch that much. Like delivering a baby.
Only flimsy universal boots will stretch this much. I got a normal boot and this tool and it didn't work.
It doesn't look like an easy job.
I couldn't get the steering rack out of the disc brake.
Steering joint.
If the outer joint won't separate and the inner is in good condition it may in some circumstances be worthwhile using this method which also would negate having to disturb the transmission seal (if the car has one) however you should clean out the joint as much as possible before repacking and when lubing the cone use the CV grease not engine oil.
I do outer boots still on the car, I'm just careful to not pull the shaft while I tap off the joint, a mate or maul grips and cable ties usually work!
You can get split CV boots now which glue together, they make sense (although I wouldn't personally install one a non mechanic without specialist tools could use one which is cool) but this, as he's cracked the ball joints anyway I don't get why he wouldn't just pull the joint and clean the greese, inspect the snap ring and all that, this is madness in my eyes......
which one is responsible for oil leak, is it the outter or innner?
@@N.Looping Inner seal has gone if it leaks oil , check transmission oil .
You made that look like hard work, I'd rather take the cv joint off the shaft because for me its the easier way.
Totally agree, knock off the cv joint and put on a proper boot, job done!
This is painful to watch. Do you always do things so complicated?
Kenji Brian Kitagawa yes is good way to rip new boot cover!!
Easier just to replace the whole axle.
I'm not doing all that just change the c.v shaft. I changed my c.v shaft without jacking up my truck.
@@onewhoknowsrevenge6807 agreed. gotta take all that shit apart anyways.....
@@onewhoknowsrevenge6807 depends what kind of car is. You know some car will leak gear oil if you remove the driveshaft. And there are special boots for the insert over and cost 7$...wich you can use with a pneumatic tool wich cost 100$ (or this cone).
I wish i could show this person the easiest way how to installed the cv boot on without that much mess..
well why dont you? its been 2 years, surely your pro by now? come on, the OP surely has read your post and is waiting very patiently for you to show the easiest way without that much mess
This is a great and simple way to remove and replace a cv boot. Thanks for the video.
Not really, all he had to do was take 10 secs to knock off the CV joint, Boot slips on, done....
Great video, no waffle either, say only what's needed. Thank you. Maybe use cleaner on the axle shaft and head before start the job so all that road dirt build up doesn't go inside with the grease. Also since the axle flops around as still on the inner knuckle, and both sides need new boots, it's almost worth making a bracket to hold tight the axle while fitting the oily new boot.
44 years a mechanic, that wheel bearing looks as if it's been toasted,all that work ,easier to remove the joint if it has a clip that's accessible, if not remove the complete shift, strip inner joint and put new boot on from inner side,no need in most cases to disturb shocker bolts,disconnect lower ball joint,and he didn't decrease and pressure clean,untidy work.
😂 I was half expecting Homer Simpson to walk up shouting "CRUSTY WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING TO MY CAR"??? Doh
Since those boots are made of a thinner stretchier material. does that mean they won't last as long?
Watching this just aged me 10 years..
I had to stop watching it and went straight for the cmments....lol
I've just paid £90 to get my CV boot replaced for a MOT failure. Thought I'd been ripped off until I seen you do it. Now I'm happy I paid the £90. Sack that shit... lol
Fair price, you aint been ripped off.
This takes longer than doing it the right way.
Having already removed the wheel, the brakes disc and pads, the steering joints etc it would be far easier to completely remove the shaft, as you have done most of the work. But If you wanted an easy method, a split boot is far easier and quicker as well as less damaging for the new boot.
Not a big fan of split boots but if I could find one for my vehicle I'd give it a try! Split Boot video - th-cam.com/video/iLrGNU_t83Y/w-d-xo.html
@@eltonnoway5692
I've fitted three so far, and if you take your time you and keep your hands clean it's a quick and easy job, that will last as long as a conventional boot.
Ive put 2 split boots. both failed after 1 year. glue stick ok, the rubber is crap.
@@jennychiltoon7130
Then you are not doing it correctly, it needs to very very clean and grease free.
Also, sometimes the inner joint (often a tripode) can be removed more easily, especially if hub attachment a super-complicated 4x4 Locking Assembly or Fully Floating Axle etc.
Nice vid but I would just replace the axle less mess and you won’t have to worry about it for a long time..thanks for sharing!!
Basketball Ave CV boots cost about $15 as opposed to $200 for a whole axle , its your money though waste it how you want
Ok, first of all, why are you using those gloves? Use disposable and change them once your hands get too greasy. Secondly, Dude, you struggled needlessly getting it off the cone if you have just let it reverse it'self as you pushed it off, it would have saved you a step.
I use kevlar gloves like that every day at work they are fine
Nice video but I did this today with no cone. I just flipped the boot inside out and stretched over joints by hand. This was on a 2004 Celica. Did the inner boots without having to disassemble the whole knuckles/spindles.
I know this is older, but I just found it. This is a really excellent video! Thank you!
thanks for the info...thanks for shared knowledge.... its a blessing... God bless
It took 3 1/2 days to do, by then I had replaced a motor in two cars lol. man you made it look so hard.
Hahaha
Great video! Nice steady camera and bright lighting. The voice-over is a nice touch and it sounds very professional-like. The use of the lubricant and brush in the pail is a neat and useful tip. Thank you!
Yeah but "drift shaft"? Ffs
07:33 - 07:36 - there is a hole in a brand new CV shaft boot already. Its kinda hard to see, but its 100% there. Try 0,25x speed. Its there - its hard visible, because the cone itself is dark, but...
I get it. Its very hard to do it that way, but...This was not successful.
Nice catch!
Thank goodness there are easier methods
I didn't even know this was an option, great! And the cone is fearly cheap also (around 18€) i will try this!
I get the concept of using a pull over boot like this but it can’t be good on the boot to stretch way beyond its intended size. And if it’s that flimsy it probably won’t last very long.
I’ve see split boots that if done right look like they would be a better replacement.
Using a cone: Lubricate external of new boot. Slide small end over the cone. Push down to turn new boot inside out. Push larger end of boot that is inside out over drive shaft. Stretch the smaller end over the wide area of the cone? Will it stretch that much without tearing? Pull the wide end of boot back over the shaft, turning it outside out. I have the Car Quest outer boot. The smaller diameter WILL NOT stretch that much. I have both the inner and outer boots, but Car Quest has the same part number for both. For my "93 Jimmy, it is 85 1103. But one boot is longer than the other.
Did I miss something? This is not my first rodeo. I replaced both inner and outer boots for both sides after I bought the Jimmy in 1997 . I removed both axles to replace the boots. It seems that it wasn't that hard 24 years ago.
One vid mentioned that when gaiter/boot NOT of the stretchy type, a regular item can still be manipulated over the cone with the aid of pre-heating.
Good video, but you forgot to torque the wheel bolts.
if the boot was torn water and dirt has gotten in. you need to pull the shaft , clean everything and take apart. there are no short cuts in automotive repair, the above video will not work anyway on the inner boot. the one that needs replacing most of the time. the OEM boots are much stronger that generic boots
Already putting massive stress on the boot material with this method.
Yeah why not just pull the axle out and do things right and easy?
Great education video. But I would have just replaced the whole driveshaft with new boots already installed.
$20 verse $200 plus in most vehicle cases.
Nice video! Next time I'd put antisieze on the shaft and the threads to the nut shaft . Bravo
I would have never believed this if I had not seen it. Hard to believe that that small inner hole could be stretched that far... I have changed the outer boot many times when i could not get the shaft out, I released the inside clip on the outer c/v joint and pulled it...
the last time I did this, it was one set screw to remove the CV form the shaft, and didn't have to stretch the boot.
If this is not done correctly can it cause a n unusual smell to come from the wheel area after short trips?
I like the idea but am a quick guy just get a complete cv axcle and install in seconds lol 😆 😉 😂 😜 good work pal will try it out
He’s heavy breathing because lady “robot voice” won’t let go of his xxxxx until the job is finished! She’s got a tight grip!!!
Muy laborioso, mejor quitar la flecha completa.
Reminds me when I got the wrong box of condoms
Yike
Bobby Urkevich yea like the medium sized that slip right off
Lmao!😂
Ask for rubber bands next time 🤔
I would believe this boot is cheap something like plastic with some rubber mixture and how long it will last since my honda real boot seems impossible to stretch that much
i came here for a refresher on how to do this but i have multiple problems w this video. first off you dont have to remove the caliper support, shock absorber or the tie rod end if you just take apart the control arm at the ball joint. secondly you ripped the boot and still put it on you can clearly see its ripped at 7:34
I would have thought you could wrap some gaffer tape around the joint teeth for boot protection, and done the same job without the cone, but I am probably wrong.
One time my wife's car cb boot looked like that I packed it with grease wrapped it up with duck tape and it lasted for another 5yrs🤣
Is there any sound after modify????
@@harishchowdary20 no clicking after I put grease and sealed it with the duck tape
you like to make work for yourself, no need to remove the caliper, or track rod end or strut nuts, just undo bottom ball joint and use a crow bar to prize it down.
better yet, unbolt the ball joint and bolt it back on when done, no need to take the ball out from the tight spot when you can unbolt it from the other side and realign it when done, just mark it up well and its even easier, though its a shit job that lands you right in the greaselands...
can you reuse the 6 inner flange bolts, the ones that secure the cv axle to the differential, or they have to be changed every time? I have a cv axle to replace tomorrow.
Making really hard work of this
thought he was making a flesh light for a minute
😂😂🤣🤣🤣
I was laughing at the comments until I saw the positive comments. Then I laughed harder.
So many things wrongly done.
1. Undo hub nut on the ground.
2. No need to undo anything on the strut except lower ball on wishbone.
2. Clean the CV joint sparkling with tissue and brake cleaner. The old grease has dirt in it that will wear out the CV joint. Moisture and oil will make the grease fail.
3. Use only silicone lube on the cone. Oil will absorb into the CV boot and weaken it. Oil on the boot exterior will stick dirt to it and again creates sandpaper in the CV boot grooves that will shorten it's life. Clean the boot.
4. Do not pack the new grease onto the boot. Grease in the boot will make it deform at high revs and again shorten it's life and create vibration.
5. Don't use all the grease, only pack the joint. The boot it designed to " throw" grease onto the ball joint while rotating if it comes out.
Please, can worn-out or bad inner cv joint cause ABS light on? I asked because immediately I changed the cv axle joint, I began to hear like cracking nose. Please, what could be the problem?
I did my CV boot with an over the CV joint method.. was nowhere near as hard as shown in this video.. I only took the driveshaft nut off and the lower suspension joint nut off, was enough room to swing the whole suspension to get the drive shaft out of the wheel hub, and then just push the suspension assembly to one side as I fitted the new CV boot - no taking of the track rod off nor anything to do with the brake caliper. To be on the safe side I also put the new CV boot in some hot water - I guess it was not necessary as it easily slid over the cone... and I am 66 !
Can anyone explain how this saves any work? Is it because if you pull the axle out of the transmission fluid will leak?
What happened to just using a brass hammer to just knock off the joint end and then sliding on the boot, much easier to many of us?
yeah, don't do this. he's getting all sorts of dirt in the boot and thus the joint, and not cleaning any of the dirt that may have gotten in from the bad boot. Doing this correctly only takes a few more steps if you want to replace just the boot, and ensures longer life of the part. Or just replace the whole axle to be safe and it's way easier. You don't want to be stranded somewhere because your joint fails, or worse damage other parts of the car if the axle comes loose, or even loose control while driving.
Nice video, always wondered how that 'cone' worked.....
i use glue together types.so simple and quick and they last years
Thanks for your sharing knowledge!
Why is he breathing so heavily?
says to lubricate the joint but dumps the entire grease pack into the boot. When does it get into the joint?
i think he mix dust n grease for get the over performance..tq
There are lots of videos showing easy way to change boots. I surely not recommend this one.
how should it be done then? If I came to my mechanic and he sees I did the glued CV gaitor, he's gonna kill me.
@@pochron1105 Pull the entire CV axle out, clamp it in a vice
@@benjaminprince6424 Thanks! That was some time ago. I actually did over-the-joint but I was very happy with it!
@@pochron1105 Yes some time ago haha, how long has the boot lasted? I do a lot of 4wd so this kind of technique I would not do due to the amount of stress and angles my CV's would be at so rather not have them half thrashed before they even get used.
@@benjaminprince6424 Makes sense ... but who knows! It actually came out very neat and I didn't have any issues or early wear. Probably the repair itself was less stressful than in the video above too. ;) I won't be surprised if it keeps going for ages.
Great 👍 I did it very easy thnx
HE CREAMED THE GREASE SEAL WITH THE NOSE OF THE AXLE INSTALLING IT BACK IN THE WHEEL HUB.
I really appreciate the video and the huge effort, but that's just too much work for my Saturday. 😐
This is a perfect method if you live in Cuba or some other third-world countries where you cannot afford to buy a new CV joint and labor cost is like nothing BUT not in America when an axle shaft is so cheap...
Its for diy, so your labour cost is £0.. Most aftermarket driveshaft cause wobbles. Especially on honda and really common on the fords. You'll loose gearbox oil aswell if you pop the shaft out.
That CV axle boot goes out you might as well do the whole front end to avoid about 5 front end alignments the next 2 years. The hub,rotor,brake pads, ball joint,control arm bushings,sway bar bushings..if you do things right life don't seem so bad..you can buy one coke at a time for $1.50 or get a 6 pack for 2.79..choice is yours
it is safe just to change that boot??? why did it breake in first place???
It is safe to do it when it just happened, providing NO dirt/contaminants entered the CV joint. It broke because rubber breaks down due to heat and twisting. All CV boots break at some point or another.
Does it matter if the axle is for AWD if my Roque is front wheel drive?
There is always more than one way to do something, but for me you just gotta pull the axle.
Omg....You deflower that cv boot.lol
Remember to use a little anti seize/copper ease on all the threads,when refitting.👍🏾🛠
Any split boot options that work?
For crying out loud. Get a new or even a rebuilt axle. Half the job is spent on the boot replace.
Boots that are ripped click on turns before anyone even knows they’re torn. So, they’re already beyond this type of fix.
Holy shit, just undo the snap ring.
This poor CV boot. It's been goatse'd!
stupides way to do it when its just to knock of te joint and slide it over.
Magne Olav Holan not really you obviously do not do this all the time , most cars are very hard to just knock CV joints off is most of the time not real , one CV joint i did was seized on and i had to grind it off
Great video. Thank you.