I hint for the next time you do it, take you a bowl of water put it in the microwave put it on about three minutes two minutes depending on what microwave you’ve got and pull it out and let the boot sit in that warm water and it will soften it up Tremendously and make it so much easier. Do not do like I did the first time and put the boot in the microwave in the water. It burned a hole in it, so but yes, hot water will make it 10 times easier.
@@dirtydavesgarage8251 You don't want to use ANY detergent that could break down grease in the joint. Use a hair dryer to warm the rubber to make it stretch easier and then a light smear of multipurpose grease or clean engine oil to help it slide on to the cone and then onto the shaft.
Thanks for the instructional. My application is a little different, but similar. I need to replace the boots on my 1953 Dodge driveshaft ball and trunion universal joints. The construction of these old drive shafts makes replacing the boots a task. The OEM style boots are expensive and are quite alot of work to install through the interior of the union cup, I'm hoping these Dorman unifit boots work out as a faster less expensive seal for the jojnt. Watching you do it gives me inspiration. Thanks again!
Great video. I just did all 4 cv boots on my atv. Same design. I totally disassembled the bearing to avoid this stretching step. And I bought the band tool on amazon for 16$
Yeah these actually work. Not fun in cold weather though! that rubber refuses to expand enough, I know it's against the instructions (or it was in mine) but dumping the rubber boot in some very hot water first really helps, dry it off quickly and use lots of grease on the cone. My cone is specifically for this, the plastic is heavier etc and the end isn't open like a funnel but I can see how any long funnel would work. A tip: probably easier to do with the axle installed in the car if you can separate the ball joint and swing the suspension out of the way, at least then you're pushing against something.
Both of my outer CV boots are completely torn on my Tacoma after replacing both axles about 2 years ago. Disappointing. So, I’m going to give this a shot methinks. Thanks for the funnel hack!
Thank you for a great film. I didn't know how to use the Cone, now I know, but I see it requires a lot of strength, not sure if I can do it. I thought to buy that special spreading power tool with opening jaws, but people complain that it tears the boots, kind of works only on certain type of boots, and how to know which boot will be torn, unclear. I don't have that type of problem w/boots, but good to learn how all that works. Thank you again.
I tried this, almost got it on and the boot ripped in half. It obviously works, this is just what happened to me. A 2011 Focus was what I was doing it on.
I've got a hummer h3 and the axles are expensive from the dealer and the boots are dryrotting so I've been looking into these type of boot replacement. It seems doable!
You force the boot over the cone. The elasticity of the boot, size of cv joint, etc will play a factor at how quickly it goes for whatever you’re working on. No point in watching me struggle for 10-15 minutes.
There is an easier way. Since the 8:25 outer boot is bad, it also advisable to replace inner boot and you dont have to remove the drive shaft from tranny which requires the fluid to be drained. You can separate the inner joint by removing the boot and leaving the end in the tranny. Then the inner joint has a snap ring to release the bearings. Now you dont have to stretch the outer boot over the outer bearing. Outer boot gets installed from inner side of shaft without any stretching....
It just makes everything harder since you have to remove the inner boot first and then put the clamps back on there which is the hardest part and you make it double since you're doing clamps on both sides
I was trying to find a tool to rent. I was racking my brain to figure out how to redneck ingenuity it. Thank you so much for your video. I will do it tomorrow morning, and let you know how it went. Thank you so much for your redneck ingenuity!😂
Looks like this repair process was a struggle. I agree with the previous comments, it would have been easier to remove the joint. The boot expander is expensive. Shops have that tool and pays for itself. Not worth buying for weekend tree mechanics.
Dude, you never use dish soap for a job like this. That thing dries in seconds and will actually work against you getting the boot over the cone. It would have been better to use a little bit of the same axle grease on the cone, or my favorite, the one and only WD40.
What did you use to lube the cone with? I have separate Cv axle grease by Valvoline and HF superlube multipurpose synthetic grease. Which to use to lube the cone?
@@DustinRogersinMOo ok. Also, u know what i realized is that u could ve used the cone from the other end (inner joint) to slide the boot over without flipping it... btw i was trying to do it ur way but i have an oem subaru boot and it does not wanna stretch or flip at all.
I did try many times , it didn’t work for me. 😅.we should split cv boot.it works 100 percent,no need to take driveshaft off,save lots of time and work .works every time for me
For those curious, this is a CV joint boot installation tool, specifically it looks like the one made by Moose. The rubber goes over a vehicle’s CV (constant velocity) joints, which connect the drive shaft to the CV axle (inner CV joint) & the CV axle to the wheel (outer CV joint) - the rubber prevents dirt/moisture from getting into said joints while driving the vehicle.
Debatable. How much is your time worth? Plus the cone, the grease, the kit, the tools (if you don't have them) aren't free. That job is $200 parts and labor at a local shop. He spent about $40 on materials. And between taking the tire off, moving the hub assembly, doing the job and putting everything back together, possibly two hours. An amateur might take 3-4. Again. How much is your time worth?
1988 Toyota Camry LE broken boot, so I got a Dorman 614-001. I'm thinking I want to try this way as well. Don't really want to take the Axle apart. It's the passenger side half shaft from the factory. Maybe easier if Axle is left on vehicle? Thank you for the vid!
There was still the original grease in the joint. I didn’t clean it completely out, just wiped the excess off the outside. The other grease will work it’s way in. If it’s a brand new sparkly fresh joint, you should definitely pack some grease into the joint.
Split boot works great. You don't have to take your car apart, just cut the old boot, clean away grease, glue the new split boot on, put on new grease, and finally fix the boot, Done in no time.
The one I bought is very stiff compared to this. I tried to turn inside out and it's not going to happen. I've seen videos of being able to tap off the CV end with a hammer but I'm not having any luck so I might try the split boot you glue together instead.
Really you can just tap that thing off of there the CV axle it really just taps off of there either end you have to take the other boot off if you work from the other end but I think that it might have even been easier to stretch that boot over that tone by leaving it on the car yeah stretching the boot over the cone that's not you just got to grab it with the shop towel or something and then just push it real quick and hard and don't stop once you move it you got to figure out a way to get your voice bolted down to something cuz that bicycle just slides around on the floors that's not going to work for you you got to get your your voice monitor to the table somewhere
The least bit of dirt left in the grease in the CV joint will be making you revisit this project very soon. It needs to be hermetically cleaned before re-greasing and reassembly. I'm sure you cleaned it well, but just sayin'
Well, this was nearly 3 years ago and still no issues with the joint up until I sold the vehicle a week ago. I don’t anticipate any issues with it in the near future either.
It’d be a huge struggle trying to work around the steering knuckle/suspension. Not saying it can’t be done, but it’ll probably take much longer. However, if you can rent/borrow the pneumatic tool that is made to stretch these boots, then it may go super quick for you.
With that many miles on the car, I would just replace the entire axle/CV assembly. They are not that expensive. The old shaft is at its life expectancy. When it starts clicking and binding you will be doing the same job all over again.
Well, it’s been 2 years and still no clicking from the axle. And the replacement boot was $17. A replacement axle from the auto parts store is $135+. Roughly the same amount of work to swap the axle or change the boot. Sure you can get a no-name axle from eBay or Amazon for ~$60, but you may be swapping that axle out in 2 years when it fails and there’s no warranty.
I'm a little different. I spend money on tools that make my life easier. Work smarter, not harder. Money means nothing unless it adds to my life and this would be one tool that would add to my life. Because my stress level and cussing would be through the roof. You know what they say, stress kills men.
Lol....I would have been in tears because of the frustration and fight!! Glad you won the battle.
Great job and saved a few bucks, I found heating the boot with a hair dryer made it a lot more workable.
+1 for this. I don't have air at home for the actual tool and heating the boot on the funnel makes life much easier.
I hint for the next time you do it, take you a bowl of water put it in the microwave put it on about three minutes two minutes depending on what microwave you’ve got and pull it out and let the boot sit in that warm water and it will soften it up Tremendously and make it so much easier. Do not do like I did the first time and put the boot in the microwave in the water. It burned a hole in it, so but yes, hot water will make it 10 times easier.
hot soapy water might be even better?
@@dirtydavesgarage8251 You don't want to use ANY detergent that could break down grease in the joint. Use a hair dryer to warm the rubber to make it stretch easier and then a light smear of multipurpose grease or clean engine oil to help it slide on to the cone and then onto the shaft.
This is a big brain tip thank you
Well I did exactly what you did and after getting set up it took 2 minutes to get the boot on. Thanks so much for the video.
That was definitely thinking outside the box. I wouldn't have thought about using a funnel to stretch the boot. Good job mate!
Thanks for the instructional. My application is a little different, but similar. I need to replace the boots on my 1953 Dodge driveshaft ball and trunion universal joints. The construction of these old drive shafts makes replacing the boots a task. The OEM style boots are expensive and are quite alot of work to install through the interior of the union cup, I'm hoping these Dorman unifit boots work out as a faster less expensive seal for the jojnt. Watching you do it gives me inspiration. Thanks again!
Great video. I just did all 4 cv boots on my atv. Same design. I totally disassembled the bearing to avoid this stretching step. And I bought the band tool on amazon for 16$
Yeah these actually work. Not fun in cold weather though! that rubber refuses to expand enough, I know it's against the instructions (or it was in mine) but dumping the rubber boot in some very hot water first really helps, dry it off quickly and use lots of grease on the cone. My cone is specifically for this, the plastic is heavier etc and the end isn't open like a funnel but I can see how any long funnel would work.
A tip: probably easier to do with the axle installed in the car if you can separate the ball joint and swing the suspension out of the way, at least then you're pushing against something.
Both of my outer CV boots are completely torn on my Tacoma after replacing both axles about 2 years ago. Disappointing. So, I’m going to give this a shot methinks. Thanks for the funnel hack!
Thank you for a great film. I didn't know how to use the Cone, now I know, but I see it requires a lot of strength, not sure if I can do it. I thought to buy that special spreading power tool with opening jaws, but people complain that it tears the boots, kind of works only on certain type of boots, and how to know which boot will be torn, unclear. I don't have that type of problem w/boots, but good to learn how all that works. Thank you again.
Sweet glad to see regular joes like me are innovative.
Tried this and the boot ripped it seemed like a genius idea
I'm really happy I found this. It could save us a lot of money, and even time, despite not being fast...
Wow, what a great idea. Many thanks and best wishes from Germany💯
At first I was like "look at this dummy putting it on the wrong way", then I found out I was the dummy afterall 😂 thanks for the video 👍
I know😀, that was a mind fuk... He is smarter than us 🤣
Sometimes boiling water super hot in a large pot,and drop the boot in and let it sit for 15 minutes,makes this a lot easier.
thank you for the tip
What about warming it up a little with a heat gun ,or is that a definite NO GO
Impressive. That stretched way further than I thought it could.
That's what she said. Sorry. lol
I tried this, almost got it on and the boot ripped in half. It obviously works, this is just what happened to me. A 2011 Focus was what I was doing it on.
I've got a hummer h3 and the axles are expensive from the dealer and the boots are dryrotting so I've been looking into these type of boot replacement. It seems doable!
One of the hardest things I've done in my life getting a rubber over a funnel😂
When you get clamp like these tight, center punch the strap and clip between where the strap bends and the tabs secure the tail!
Bro sped up the video in the only part we needed to see. 😄
You force the boot over the cone. The elasticity of the boot, size of cv joint, etc will play a factor at how quickly it goes for whatever you’re working on. No point in watching me struggle for 10-15 minutes.
Awesome, thank you very much for saving me a lot of work.
Excellent method, POSSIBLY warm up the boot with a heat gun to stretch easier??
It’ll probably stay stretched if you use dry heat, I’d use near-boiling, just hot water, the moisture will help let it reform
@@TheRegretedURL thank you for the reply Love and peace
No te lo aconsejo.
May I know what did you use to make so clean and accurate cut? Thank you for your film again.
Great video 👍
Unlike split boots a proper repair 👍 Easier in warm conditions.
Thanks , a friend from Việt Nam.
Dude good job!
I would recommend to warm them up first
There is an easier way. Since the 8:25 outer boot is bad, it also advisable to replace inner boot and you dont have to remove the drive shaft from tranny which requires the fluid to be drained. You can separate the inner joint by removing the boot and leaving the end in the tranny. Then the inner joint has a snap ring to release the bearings. Now you dont have to stretch the outer boot over the outer bearing. Outer boot gets installed from inner side of shaft without any stretching....
It just makes everything harder since you have to remove the inner boot first and then put the clamps back on there which is the hardest part and you make it double since you're doing clamps on both sides
Lo difícil es sacar la homocinetica,por eso optamos por estos fuelles universales.
I was trying to find a tool to rent. I was racking my brain to figure out how to redneck ingenuity it. Thank you so much for your video. I will do it tomorrow morning, and let you know how it went. Thank you so much for your redneck ingenuity!😂
Looks like this repair process was a struggle. I agree with the previous comments, it would have been easier to remove the joint. The boot expander is expensive. Shops have that tool and pays for itself. Not worth buying for weekend tree mechanics.
Great job brother.
Dude, you never use dish soap for a job like this. That thing dries in seconds and will actually work against you getting the boot over the cone. It would have been better to use a little bit of the same axle grease on the cone, or my favorite, the one and only WD40.
What if I heat a little that boot maybe then it will go easier?
Potentially. Give it a try and let us know how it works.
What did you use to lube the cone with? I have separate Cv axle grease by Valvoline and HF superlube multipurpose synthetic grease. Which to use to lube the cone?
I think I used the same super lube
@@DustinRogersinMOo ok. Also, u know what i realized is that u could ve used the cone from the other end (inner joint) to slide the boot over without flipping it... btw i was trying to do it ur way but i have an oem subaru boot and it does not wanna stretch or flip at all.
Goog job handy handy do you need to buy a special boot like stretched one or can you buy the normal boot
This was a normal boot. Other brands may or may not be as stretchy. I didn’t know if this specific boot would stretch enough.
I did try many times , it didn’t work for me. 😅.we should split cv boot.it works 100 percent,no need to take driveshaft off,save lots of time and work .works every time for me
Wow it worked. But while watching the video. Something about monkeys 🙊 and a foot ball 🏈 came to mind. Lol.
Good job.
That’s how it felt while shooting the video too. 😆
For those curious, this is a CV joint boot installation tool, specifically it looks like the one made by Moose.
The rubber goes over a vehicle’s CV (constant velocity) joints, which connect the drive shaft to the CV axle (inner CV joint) & the CV axle to the wheel (outer CV joint) - the rubber prevents dirt/moisture from getting into said joints while driving the vehicle.
You saved yourself money doing the job yourself and replacing the boot instead of entire axle, nice!
Debatable. How much is your time worth? Plus the cone, the grease, the kit, the tools (if you don't have them) aren't free. That job is $200 parts and labor at a local shop. He spent about $40 on materials. And between taking the tire off, moving the hub assembly, doing the job and putting everything back together, possibly two hours. An amateur might take 3-4.
Again. How much is your time worth?
1988 Toyota Camry LE broken boot, so I got a Dorman 614-001. I'm thinking I want to try this way as well. Don't really want to take the Axle apart. It's the passenger side half shaft from the factory. Maybe easier if Axle is left on vehicle? Thank you for the vid!
Buy genuine toyota cv boot kit. MUCH more durable rubber boot material. My cv boots are still not ripped car was made in 2008.
Con ese embudo que tiene el estremo tan fino no hace falta dar vuelta al fuelle.
so does it matter how much we trim off ✂️ 🤷
Did you use an plastic or rubber boot in this video?
Rubber
Did you pack the grease in the joint or does it work its way in.
There was still the original grease in the joint. I didn’t clean it completely out, just wiped the excess off the outside. The other grease will work it’s way in. If it’s a brand new sparkly fresh joint, you should definitely pack some grease into the joint.
Split boot works great. You don't have to take your car apart, just cut the old boot, clean away grease, glue the new split boot on, put on new grease, and finally fix the boot, Done in no time.
Does that actually work though? Looks like it wouldn’t hold up?
Pardon me but I’m considering the split boot & super glue technique. Is it holding up after a month of use?
Van you soak the boot in hot water to make is strechier
Regular boot work, or does it have to be a "stretch boot"
This was a regular boot
I couldn't do it. Just didn't have the strength for it and it kept slipping back down
Can i do this way with a oem axle boot, or only aftermarket
It depends on how flexible the OEM boot is
The one I bought is very stiff compared to this. I tried to turn inside out and it's not going to happen. I've seen videos of being able to tap off the CV end with a hammer but I'm not having any luck so I might try the split boot you glue together instead.
Good job
Thank you
Really you can just tap that thing off of there the CV axle it really just taps off of there either end you have to take the other boot off if you work from the other end but I think that it might have even been easier to stretch that boot over that tone by leaving it on the car yeah stretching the boot over the cone that's not you just got to grab it with the shop towel or something and then just push it real quick and hard and don't stop once you move it you got to figure out a way to get your voice bolted down to something cuz that bicycle just slides around on the floors that's not going to work for you you got to get your your voice monitor to the table somewhere
I had the funnel that broke off and I thought it out. Could of used it now.
The least bit of dirt left in the grease in the CV joint will be making you revisit this project very soon. It needs to be hermetically cleaned before re-greasing and reassembly. I'm sure you cleaned it well, but just sayin'
Well, this was nearly 3 years ago and still no issues with the joint up until I sold the vehicle a week ago. I don’t anticipate any issues with it in the near future either.
QUESTION FOR ANYONE... can this work while the CV is still in the transmission? or does it absolutely have to be taken out?
It’d be a huge struggle trying to work around the steering knuckle/suspension. Not saying it can’t be done, but it’ll probably take much longer.
However, if you can rent/borrow the pneumatic tool that is made to stretch these boots, then it may go super quick for you.
@@DustinRogersinMO Thank you so much brother... im gonna look into a rental.🤙🏻
Hope you got that dawn cleaned off good. The soap could mess with the grease.
It was on the outside of the boot because it was turned inside out.
Ok that was bad ass. I can't let the ex see this though. She'll use this technique to wreck her sphincter instead of me. 😂👌
Yes you did it
If I have to take the axel off to change the boot, I'm changing the whole damn axel then.
Awesome video!
How long did the boot last?
Still going
With that many miles on the car, I would just replace the entire axle/CV assembly. They are not that expensive. The old shaft is at its life expectancy. When it starts clicking and binding you will be doing the same job all over again.
Well, it’s been 2 years and still no clicking from the axle. And the replacement boot was $17. A replacement axle from the auto parts store is $135+. Roughly the same amount of work to swap the axle or change the boot. Sure you can get a no-name axle from eBay or Amazon for ~$60, but you may be swapping that axle out in 2 years when it fails and there’s no warranty.
I'm a little different. I spend money on tools that make my life easier. Work smarter, not harder. Money means nothing unless it adds to my life and this would be one tool that would add to my life. Because my stress level and cussing would be through the roof. You know what they say, stress kills men.
Was it a Boy or Girl?
Anyone try this with an oem honda boot?
those are needle nose vice grips not channel locks
Yeah. I misspoke. It doesn’t really matter what I called them. I showed the tool I was using, so most will be able to decipher what I meant.
It would've taken less time if you just remove the inner joint
Just pull/hammer the joint off… easy.
SMART F*CKING GUY
It's painful and using more force to make that boot to stretch
literally had the same thing happen with my sway bar link on my toyota
How bizarre.
Esos fuelles no duran ni 6 meses,son muy malos.
No audio
Or, the device you’re watching on has volume muted 🤷🏻♂️
Why U don't do it slowly, U don't want us to see
Crap method. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm the new boot to help it stretch over the cone.
Drive shaft
Pls don’t fast forward it how could we learn your fast forwarding it!
Oh God Dorman garbage