Ben & Nora, each video i enjoy more than the one before and Ben, glad to see i am not the only one hanging on to my Model Master paints, used them forever and not planning on switching any time soon
Recently discovered your channel, I have enjoyed watching you build the "beast" Titanic. Thanks for all the information on the build and Nora's commentary. Am going to watch until it is completed.
They are coming eventually. It’s “normally” what we do. But this build was slowed down by a commission build and an increased work schedule. But look forward to more progress.
Just found your channel after searching for deck painting tutorials as I'm currently building the Academy Mini-craft 1/350th scale Titanic. I enjoyed the video and your approach to installing these, I honestly didn't even know these decks existed, wifey did great with instruction on how to install using the technique you chose, she was clear and precise throughout the entire process of which other video tutorials lack as they tend to skip through and cut straight to the finish. In saying that, I looked up a decking kit in my scale and honestly, I just can't justify the pricing, with shipping added it seems a little expensive to an already over-priced item. Seems like an attractive alternative for those willing to take the initiative to installing these but in my opinion, its not what I would use as a solution, I think its a lazy approach and a waste to cover up detail that is already there and it really doesn't add to ones skill if they're trying to improve their painting and weathering technique (like myself). Anyway, great content, I may go back and start watching this series from the start as you make it seem like fun and not a chore as some modelers do during their videos (which is kinda sad and off putting). Cheers!!!
Ben and Nora, first of all greetings from Ireland 🇮🇪. Loving the videos and can’t wait for the next instalment. I want to thank you so much for the tip with the tissue paper for the pontos decks. Brilliant idea. I’ve used it and it works great. Thanks guys.
Woodworker tip, with pva glue (yellow wood glue like titebond). Put layer of glue on both sides and let it sit for a few hours and completely dry. Now both sides have dried glue you can put the thin piece of wood down and position it just how you want dry, can even use tape to hold in place. Now "iron" the wood down and it will reactivate the glue and stay in place. Not sure if heat needed for that is too much for model plastic, but I use it for veneers on wood projects for perfect placement.
If you read the scale decks instructions they recommend you cut the glue with a bit of water. This helps the deck absorb the glue better and the bond is stronger.
On the lines of the paper backing,not sure if someone else has mentioned it or not,another option would be to use "onion paper"...super thin, tough, and colorless. Great video as always Ben,and I'm glad to see that Nora has finally made an appearance in your build videos. Been hearing about her for quite some time now,and we finally get to "meet" her lol. Keep up the great work you two...looking forward to the rest of the build.
Clever tip using the tissue paper.👍👌😁 It's great what a fresh perspective can do. What a shame most of the manufacturers couldn't think it through like Nora did.😂
Very nice job and, as other people have posted, I love the history. Went to see artifacts of Titanic in Madrid, many years ago. The personal stories are fascinating. I really do like the tissue paper approach (as compared to what you did with the Mighty Mo.
Great Video very informative Used a ScaledDecks deck for the first time on a 1/350 battleship. I thought the instructions said to thin a bit water. Its been a few months since I did it.
Nice video. To bad I did not see this before I put all my Pontos wood on my Titanic. My first try was the Poop deck and it ended being off a fraction of a mm near the back. It is not noticeable but some of the small hole will need some tweeking to line the parts up that fit into them. Since that first piece what I did to eliminate the misalignment problems was to remove only some of that thick clear backing. Than install the wood piece one part at a time. Once the first part was lined up correctly I peeled the rest of the clear backing as I applied the wood to the deck. Since the poop deck I have not had alignment issues and this is my first time dealing with wood decks as well.
Good job! The Scaledecks version is in my opinion so much more superior than the other options. Both the Pontos and the KA decks have burn issues at the ends of the plank joints due to the laser cutting. The Scaledecks version is so much better on that issue. Also the KA version does have fitting issues around some of the deck crane bases. The Scaledecks now has an additional option designed for the KA upscale details that does NOT have the cut outs for the life boat standings. So guys take care with which version you wish to order! ;-)
Great advise! And I agree, the scale decks version is the way to go. But it’s another $130 something USD and that may not be an option for some people. Or if someone buys a KA or Pontos deck on EBay that someone didn’t use... they’ll have to deal with the imperfections. And it’s worth it in my opinion. Build any kit out of the box and add a real wood deck and you’re model is instantly at a higher level than before.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I have a ? I have the KA kit & scaledecks LCD-25 which has the cut-out for the life boat cradles, ? Can I still use my decking with the kit attached cradles, & still be able to use the KA lifeboats & davits? Minus the PE cradles? I just would hate to have make waste of my boat deck decking from scaledecks only to buy the supplement decking LCD-25A for the sake of those PE cradles, would rather use everything I have already, except for those PE cradles kinda a mix & match scenario. Hope this makes sense to anyone?
In my opinion scale decks are simply the best decks available, with its various wood tones, they will surely outshine all competitors & will certainly leave a gorgeous result when applied. it was my choice when I got my decking 😜👍👍 although for those who wish to use their kit provided decking whether it be Pontos or KA, I love that tissue idea, I believe it will work great for those who wish to go that route with their build, you could also bring those decks up a notch by experimenting with some wood stains.👍
Heya folks. What about trying a Drafting Sketch Rolled Paper for a backing to the sticky back wood decking pieces? Sometime's it's called Canary paper, we use it in drafting, etc., and it comes typically in white and or canary yellow. HHhmmm... Other than the Gift Tissue Paper, I think the drafting sketching paper might be good to use as well. At least I think it might? Regards, Sammy Oh and a PS . . . in helping to lay down the Wood Decking, what about using a rubber print roller. You can get them in small sizes, and I think, might be a bit better than using your fingers for much larger appliques.... again, I think maybe so anyhow. Later folks! Great job!
No need for a special episode😉 When Ben mentioned a 1/200 scale Titanic was in the works, he noted my excitement, said he would buy it and we would build it together. I have zero, model building skills but the Titanic intrigued me. The rest, as they say, is history 🤷🏻♀️
@@noramarie1709 I figured it had more to do with Titanic than actual model building. To be honest that's what got me into building. I wanted a ship like the one I saw in an anime when I was a kid but there were no toys of it like for US cartoons at the time. Eventually found there was a model kit of it and I've been building ever since.
What preparation would you recommend for protecting a wooden deck from UV radiation? And is it necessary? I think the wood will darken/change color over time
I have not had this problem. But they do sell UV protectant sealers at the hardware store for outdoor wood. You could just put some of that over the deck.
I wonder whether the tissue used for covering balsa wood aircraft would work just as well for backing of the adhesive decks - as it has very good adhesive absorbency properties, plus comes in various thicknesses and will dry flat.
I noticed a couple of Shiner Bock bottles on the table. What kind of paint is that? I'd like to use it on my builds. Can you give us some application tips for it?? 😉
@@TheMidwestModelShop I live a few hours away from the brewery. Will pay them a visit soon. :) If I don't have the Model Master Acryl can I seal the decks with Vallejo Matt Varnish 70.520?
Hi ben I have the wooden deck for the 1/200 titanic but it's come with some yellow sheets cut the same size as the wooden deck. can you tell me what they are for
Hello, (I beg your pardon, but I am writing with google translator) I am putting the wooden decks to the titanic, I have already attached the bow and stern, but I forgot to pass the transparent opaque to protect them ... can I do it now? (I use the KA kit) To others that I still have to glue, is it better to put the opaque clearcoat first and then attach them?
So... quick question. My Titanic 1:400 Academy/Airfix (UK) model has got decking detail on the plastic. I want to install some wood decking so do I need to scrub/sand off the plastic details so that the wood has a totally flat surface to adhere to or is this just not necessary if I use your gorilla wood glue method?
UP Time for NORA to START building models. SO you said you're using a Pontos set? I can't find any information on it? Has it not come out yet? I wish I could locate the Pontos set for the OLD Tamiya Bismarck in 1/350. They have one for the newer Revell Kit but I can't find the one for the Tamiya kit which I'm actually going to make as the Tirpitz.
No,it’s out. When you get the titanic there’s a paper in there with where to get it from. If you TH-cam Pontos titanic reviews it will pop up and you can see what comes in the kit.
Yeah I ordered it from Trumpeter and I think back then it was a couple hundred bucks? But honestly I don’t remember and I don’t know what they go for now. You can probably find a set on EBay.
Hello, how are you ? For the scaledeck floor, why put glue on the plastic and the floor? How do I clean up excess glue without damaging the bridge ? Apparently it damages the paint? Thank you for your response, best regards
Hi Philip, Francis here, the not so famous artist. I guess you know where they came from, and they were the smallest I ever painted; I usually paint 28mm tall wargame figures so this was a magnifying and very patient job! Cheers F
Thanks again, Francis! Nora and I really love these figures and appreciate the effort that you put into them. I really think they turned out fantastic! Thank you, very much!
I saw in the video that you use a black fabric or toilet seat covers. M for toilet seats are any brand or model okay? then to cover the deck, I saw that you use an opaque transparent acrylic paint. I saw that you use that of the model master acryl (but here in Italy I can't find it) can I use any opaque transparent acrylic paint? like tamiya?
So im watching your USS Mighty Mo build and see that Nora is into Birdhouses and Doll Houses. Has she tried the airbrush yet? and if not Why not and will she?
Is there anything I need to put on the wood decks to treat them to last longer or do you just install them exactly how you receive them with nothing on them
I spray them with a flat clear coat to seal them first. Otherwise…. You could have problems down the road. Also, while building the model, if you accidentally spill something on the deck, there’s a chance you could clean it up without ruining the deck lines.
No the glue will adhere permanently to the wood. The only potential failure is to the model itself. However, I have a ship that is now 4 years old and the wood glue is still holding the deck securely in place without any delimitation.
Ha: advertising algorithms... I got a mid-roll ad for real wooden decking. Now the interwebs think I'm in the market for a new deck. Edit: Well at least I'm not being targeted for vibratory disintegrators.
I never really understood the purpose of these wooden decks on models. Sure, it is wood imitating wood on the real ship, cool, but the rest of the model is not from the steel neither, so there is no point of using the same material just for the sake of authenticity. From the point of visual appearance, a plastic deck that is properly painted, weathered and washed looks just the same. Yes it takes some effort, but so does properly gluing a wooden deck as proven by this video and unlike this which can be ruined further into the assembly and especially painting, a "wooden" plastic can be redone, fixed, improved, whatever one wants to do with it it can be done pretty much at any time of working with the kit. For me, PE parts are a must when building ships, because there is no way how to get needed detail using plastic only (for example, there is nothing uglier in my opinion than plastic railings used on some older Revell kits), metal barrels are nice, because plastic variant can never be as nicely drilled especially with smaller calibers, but with wooden decks I just don't see that much of real advantage using them.
I see what you’re saying. I would ask you to consider the opposite, though. If you go out of your way to paint the hull and other plastic parts to look like metal as much as possible, then a real wood deck will only help that appearance. Besides, if you take a flat piece of metal and a flat piece of plastic, put a couple coats of paint on it.... at this scale you can’t tell the difference without touching it, in my opinion. All the PE on the Missouri build looks just like the plastic part I painted.
Scale Decks are by far the best in the market! Great job Nora! We don't need Ben anymore!! Lol
Ben & Nora, each video i enjoy more than the one before and Ben, glad to see i am not the only one hanging on to my Model Master paints, used them forever and not planning on switching any time soon
Yeah I hear they are discontinuing all of them... I really hope that’s not the case. I don’t really want to start a paint collection over again.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I didn't know that - guess i am going to start stocking up for builds in the pipeline
You both make a great team,you are so lucky having a wife that loves your hobby. Looking forward to the next video.
What a lucky man!!! NOT only does she build, she's good at it.
Hey it's nice to see your wife helping out on the videos really like the history parts to and thank you both for sharing
I absolutely love Nora's adorable laugh. Great job guys! Super helpful and informative, as always
Recently discovered your channel, I have enjoyed watching you build the "beast" Titanic. Thanks for all the information on the build and Nora's commentary. Am going to watch until it is completed.
I love this series! Long live the RMS Titanic!
Thanks Alan!!!
@@TheMidwestModelShop no problem, ben
Drinking Shiner and modeling...Good man. Solid choice..for your wife and your beer! Cheers!
Finishing up my set of figures and sending them your way! Including jack and rose!!
Excellent!! Would love to see more "How To" videos for this ship. (lighting, railing, rigging, bench making, etc)
They are coming eventually. It’s “normally” what we do. But this build was slowed down by a commission build and an increased work schedule. But look forward to more progress.
Just found your channel after searching for deck painting tutorials as I'm currently building the Academy Mini-craft 1/350th scale Titanic.
I enjoyed the video and your approach to installing these, I honestly didn't even know these decks existed, wifey did great with instruction on how to install using the technique you chose, she was clear and precise throughout the entire process of which other video tutorials lack as they tend to skip through and cut straight to the finish.
In saying that, I looked up a decking kit in my scale and honestly, I just can't justify the pricing, with shipping added it seems a little expensive to an already over-priced item.
Seems like an attractive alternative for those willing to take the initiative to installing these but in my opinion, its not what I would use as a solution, I think its a lazy approach and a waste to cover up detail that is already there and it really doesn't add to ones skill if they're trying to improve their painting and weathering technique (like myself).
Anyway, great content, I may go back and start watching this series from the start as you make it seem like fun and not a chore as some modelers do during their videos (which is kinda sad and off putting).
Cheers!!!
Ben and Nora, first of all greetings from Ireland 🇮🇪. Loving the videos and can’t wait for the next instalment. I want to thank you so much for the tip with the tissue paper for the pontos decks. Brilliant idea. I’ve used it and it works great. Thanks guys.
Super happy it helped!
Great how-to and terrific outtakes. Dave
You make a great team! Model making should be fun. A brilliant decision to work together Ben… Looking forward to the next edition already!
Good idea using thin paper underneath the deck. Especially the black one since tar is used in real life, and the black paper imitates that ^^
Woodworker tip, with pva glue (yellow wood glue like titebond).
Put layer of glue on both sides and let it sit for a few hours and completely dry. Now both sides have dried glue you can put the thin piece of wood down and position it just how you want dry, can even use tape to hold in place. Now "iron" the wood down and it will reactivate the glue and stay in place. Not sure if heat needed for that is too much for model plastic, but I use it for veneers on wood projects for perfect placement.
Dont forget to save the pontos deck clear backing sheet, they can be used for the clear windows on the kit👍
Great idea!
Such a beautiful smile Nora love the show .
My sentiments exactly! Nora certainly does have a gorgeous smile. 😇✌
If you read the scale decks instructions they recommend you cut the glue with a bit of water. This helps the deck absorb the glue better and the bond is stronger.
Yep, I squirted a bit of water in a small cup of glue and so far, I haven’t seen any peeling of the deck.
I bet your viewership has increased exponentially since Nora showed up!
Very good job Nora 👍 u nailed it
Hi you take modelling to a new level and I think it's brilliant. I'm so glad I stumbled onto your channel and I'm now a subscriber.
On the lines of the paper backing,not sure if someone else has mentioned it or not,another option would be to use "onion paper"...super thin, tough, and colorless.
Great video as always Ben,and I'm glad to see that Nora has finally made an appearance in your build videos. Been hearing about her for quite some time now,and we finally get to "meet" her lol.
Keep up the great work you two...looking forward to the rest of the build.
Thank you for this showcase. It’ll help me with my current project I’m doing on my QM2 which also came with wooden decks.
Nice work as always, from Australia. Nora got it right when she pronounced Au-stra-lee-a . Yes it is a four syllable word - not Austraya.
I think that is a brilliant idea with the paper...I have the Bismarck I’m about to start and Pontos decks so this was very helpful! Thanks
Clever tip using the tissue paper.👍👌😁 It's great what a fresh perspective can do. What a shame most of the manufacturers couldn't think it through like Nora did.😂
Very nice job and, as other people have posted, I love the history. Went to see artifacts of Titanic in Madrid, many years ago. The personal stories are fascinating. I really do like the tissue paper approach (as compared to what you did with the Mighty Mo.
I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU DO ONE OF THE NEVADA Class.
Informative demonstration. Thanks!
Great video, thanks.
Great Video very informative Used a ScaledDecks deck for the first time on a 1/350 battleship. I thought the instructions said to thin a bit water.
Its been a few months since I did it.
That, I believe, is if you’re using the gorilla glue that’s activated by water.
Ooops! bought the wrong one.
Thanks for the tip on toilet covers. I got busted swiping a few butt gaskets at the gas station and now I'm banned and on probation!
Nice video. To bad I did not see this before I put all my Pontos wood on my Titanic. My first try was the Poop deck and it ended being off a fraction of a mm near the back. It is not noticeable but some of the small hole will need some tweeking to line the parts up that fit into them. Since that first piece what I did to eliminate the misalignment problems was to remove only some of that thick clear backing. Than install the wood piece one part at a time. Once the first part was lined up correctly I peeled the rest of the clear backing as I applied the wood to the deck. Since the poop deck I have not had alignment issues and this is my first time dealing with wood decks as well.
Good job! The Scaledecks version is in my opinion so much more superior than the other options. Both the Pontos and the KA decks have burn issues at the ends of the plank joints due to the laser cutting. The Scaledecks version is so much better on that issue. Also the KA version does have fitting issues around some of the deck crane bases. The Scaledecks now has an additional option designed for the KA upscale details that does NOT have the cut outs for the life boat standings. So guys take care with which version you wish to order! ;-)
Great advise! And I agree, the scale decks version is the way to go. But it’s another $130 something USD and that may not be an option for some people. Or if someone buys a KA or Pontos deck on EBay that someone didn’t use... they’ll have to deal with the imperfections. And it’s worth it in my opinion. Build any kit out of the box and add a real wood deck and you’re model is instantly at a higher level than before.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I have a ? I have the KA kit & scaledecks LCD-25 which has the cut-out for the life boat cradles, ? Can I still use my decking with the kit attached cradles, & still be able to use the KA lifeboats & davits? Minus the PE cradles? I just would hate to have make waste of my boat deck decking from scaledecks only to buy the supplement decking LCD-25A for the sake of those PE cradles, would rather use everything I have already, except for those PE cradles kinda a mix & match scenario. Hope this makes sense to anyone?
Please let me know the name of the deck you used in this video. I couldn’t find it. Thank you.
In my opinion scale decks are simply the best decks available, with its various wood tones, they will surely outshine all competitors & will certainly leave a gorgeous result when applied. it was my choice when I got my decking 😜👍👍 although for those who wish to use their kit provided decking whether it be Pontos or KA, I love that tissue idea, I believe it will work great for those who wish to go that route with their build, you could also bring those decks up a notch by experimenting with some wood stains.👍
Ben just hand over too Nora ..u guys a great well done
Heya folks. What about trying a Drafting Sketch Rolled Paper for a backing to the sticky back wood decking pieces? Sometime's it's called Canary paper, we use it in drafting, etc., and it comes typically in white and or canary yellow. HHhmmm... Other than the Gift Tissue Paper, I think the drafting sketching paper might be good to use as well. At least I think it might? Regards, Sammy Oh and a PS . . . in helping to lay down the Wood Decking, what about using a rubber print roller. You can get them in small sizes, and I think, might be a bit better than using your fingers for much larger appliques.... again, I think maybe so anyhow. Later folks! Great job!
Informative as always. Still waiting on the special episode where we find out how exactly we got the Mrs involved in a build.
No need for a special episode😉 When Ben mentioned a 1/200 scale Titanic was in the works, he noted my excitement, said he would buy it and we would build it together. I have zero, model building skills but the Titanic intrigued me. The rest, as they say, is history 🤷🏻♀️
@@noramarie1709 I figured it had more to do with Titanic than actual model building. To be honest that's what got me into building. I wanted a ship like the one I saw in an anime when I was a kid but there were no toys of it like for US cartoons at the time. Eventually found there was a model kit of it and I've been building ever since.
You both are awesome! Thank you for your posts. Love being able to see the progression.
You are a lucky man, a beautiful wife and loves modelling.
What preparation would you recommend for protecting a wooden deck from UV radiation? And is it necessary? I think the wood will darken/change color over time
I have not had this problem. But they do sell UV protectant sealers at the hardware store for outdoor wood. You could just put some of that over the deck.
I would choose Scale Deck over any other however they don’t have all the decks, such as the 1/200 HMS Rodney
Yes, I wish it was feasible for Scale Decks to scale up their production. But it’s a one man show…mostly.
I wonder whether the tissue used for covering balsa wood aircraft would work just as well for backing of the adhesive decks - as it has very good adhesive absorbency properties, plus comes in various thicknesses and will dry flat.
I know what you’re talking about. Just make sure it’s SUPER thin.
As with many things to do with modelling, many suppliers are cottage industries. Scaledecks Titanic deck is now unavailable!
Couldn't you use a decal scraper also on it
I noticed a couple of Shiner Bock bottles on the table. What kind of paint is that? I'd like to use it on my builds. Can you give us some application tips for it?? 😉
This is a great channel
Thanks! We try!
Good choice on that beer my friend.
Honey for the soul.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I live a few hours away from the brewery. Will pay them a visit soon. :) If I don't have the Model Master Acryl can I seal the decks with Vallejo Matt Varnish 70.520?
So I would assume so. There should be plenty of spare decking that’s on an area not used that you can test it out on FIRST.
Hi ben I have the wooden deck for the 1/200 titanic but it's come with some yellow sheets cut the same size as the wooden deck. can you tell me what they are for
I have no idea what they are for. Unless they are masks? Where did you get your deck?
Hello, (I beg your pardon, but I am writing with google translator) I am putting the wooden decks to the titanic, I have already attached the bow and stern, but I forgot to pass the transparent opaque to protect them ... can I do it now? (I use the KA kit) To others that I still have to glue, is it better to put the opaque clearcoat first and then attach them?
You can still do it. I apply it first in case I mess something up while installing it.
So... quick question. My Titanic 1:400 Academy/Airfix (UK) model has got decking detail on the plastic. I want to install some wood decking so do I need to scrub/sand off the plastic details so that the wood has a totally flat surface to adhere to or is this just not necessary if I use your gorilla wood glue method?
No you can glue right to it. Those “groves” will help the wood glue stick.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks so much for your help! Great videos and great people! Can't wait to see the finished Titanic 🙂
Would love to be a fly on the wall for one of these dinner conversations - models and toilet seat covers. Who says romance is dead, LOL.
I also have a Chihuahua, she will be six in July. Best dog in the world, she doesn't bark, is completely house trained, and she walks me!
I love dogs that walk me.
UP Time for NORA to START building models. SO you said you're using a Pontos set? I can't find any information on it? Has it not come out yet? I wish I could locate the Pontos set for the OLD Tamiya Bismarck in 1/350. They have one for the newer Revell Kit but I can't find the one for the Tamiya kit which I'm actually going to make as the Tirpitz.
No,it’s out. When you get the titanic there’s a paper in there with where to get it from. If you TH-cam Pontos titanic reviews it will pop up and you can see what comes in the kit.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Hmm so you can't order it directly from Pontos then? That's odd it's not on their site. I wonder what the price tag is.
Yeah I ordered it from Trumpeter and I think back then it was a couple hundred bucks? But honestly I don’t remember and I don’t know what they go for now. You can probably find a set on EBay.
Hello, how are you ? For the scaledeck floor,
why put glue on the plastic and the floor?
How do I clean up excess glue without damaging the bridge ?
Apparently it damages the paint?
Thank you for your response,
best regards
Because it helps the glue to hold both parts together. Just wipe away the excess glue with a wet cloth.
@@TheMidwestModelShop thank you very much
13:45 I think I would have watered down the glue? That would have extended the working time.
Last, what do I win? Great series btw.👍
can we get a closer look of those figures?????
Hi Philip, Francis here, the not so famous artist. I guess you know where they came from, and they were the smallest I ever painted; I usually paint 28mm tall wargame figures so this was a magnifying and very patient job! Cheers F
Thanks again, Francis! Nora and I really love these figures and appreciate the effort that you put into them. I really think they turned out fantastic! Thank you, very much!
@@TheMidwestModelShop It was my pleasure and I am learning so much from your build while mine is in dock until I finish something else!
I cant find that sealer where I live is there others you recommend?
I also don't have an airbrush.
Found rust oliums painters touch 2x matt clear spray would this work too?
Yes!
Which decka set was used for actual project?
Scale decks.
did you seal both sides of the decking with the acrylic? or just the top?
Just the top. Otherwise I don’t think the glue will hold as well.
good morning, for the deck, can you use baking paper as a substrate underneath?
Maybe? Isn’t there a was or something in it? You want the glue to make its way through the paper. If it doesn’t, it won’t work in the long run.
I saw in the video that you use a black fabric or toilet seat covers. M for toilet seats are any brand or model okay?
then to cover the deck, I saw that you use an opaque transparent acrylic paint. I saw that you use that of the model master acryl (but here in Italy I can't find it) can I use any opaque transparent acrylic paint? like tamiya?
Yes and clear paint will work.
So im watching your USS Mighty Mo build and see that Nora is into Birdhouses and Doll Houses. Has she tried the airbrush yet? and if not Why not and will she?
I set her up with an airbrush in the first video on Titanic.
Is there anything I need to put on the wood decks to treat them to last longer or do you just install them exactly how you receive them with nothing on them
I spray them with a flat clear coat to seal them first. Otherwise…. You could have problems down the road. Also, while building the model, if you accidentally spill something on the deck, there’s a chance you could clean it up without ruining the deck lines.
Thanks is it clear for models or for wood appreciate all info you can give
Quelqu’un pourrait m’expliquer les 4 versions de pont en bois svp ? Merci
Clearly that one downvote was by the iceberg!
Without a doubt!👍🏻
If the glue fails on the model will it fail with the paper over time?
No the glue will adhere permanently to the wood. The only potential failure is to the model itself. However, I have a ship that is now 4 years old and the wood glue is still holding the deck securely in place without any delimitation.
Hi guys!) Do I need to grind the decks before gluing?
Not sure what you mean by “grind” the deck. You need to verify the fit first….but that’s it.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Sharpen or remove the imitation of the deck of plastic))) Now you understand what I mean?)
@@TheMidwestModelShop I use a translator)
You will need to do a little bit of sanding to the decks. But out of the box, the fit is very close.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Ok! Thank you so much!)))
wait does it come with that poop deck decks?
would tracing paper work?
I don’t know. It always seemed a little “waxy” to me. I would test it first.
I'm thinking a couple more beers should steady those hands to apply the decks :)
Which decks set was used for actual project at the end?
Scale decks.
Thanks for reply. Unfortunately, they can be bought anymore :(
@dawida5606 keep checking. I heard today, that he is going to start making them again.
SHortly after I write my last reply he replied to me. I think he returned specially for me :D:D:D:D
Ben- could you use alcohol to remove the glue and then use the wood glue?
I don't think that will work very well. But you could try it on a little corner piece and see.
Where did you order your Scale Deck Titanic decks from? I've looked at their site and can't find the titanic deck to order.
Sometimes he runs out of stock. Just keep an eye out. He’ll make more soon.
👍👍👍
How could I send a figure to you for the ship. And what scale? I might have a god figure for the bridge.
You can contact us via email for the mailing address...it’s in the description.
Cool:)
Nora we don’t mind being preached to in the choir and arn’t those figures peeps are sending in wonderful 😎
Ha: advertising algorithms... I got a mid-roll ad for real wooden decking. Now the interwebs think I'm in the market for a new deck.
Edit: Well at least I'm not being targeted for vibratory disintegrators.
That’s hilarious 😆
😆...Lmao!
I never really understood the purpose of these wooden decks on models. Sure, it is wood imitating wood on the real ship, cool, but the rest of the model is not from the steel neither, so there is no point of using the same material just for the sake of authenticity. From the point of visual appearance, a plastic deck that is properly painted, weathered and washed looks just the same. Yes it takes some effort, but so does properly gluing a wooden deck as proven by this video and unlike this which can be ruined further into the assembly and especially painting, a "wooden" plastic can be redone, fixed, improved, whatever one wants to do with it it can be done pretty much at any time of working with the kit.
For me, PE parts are a must when building ships, because there is no way how to get needed detail using plastic only (for example, there is nothing uglier in my opinion than plastic railings used on some older Revell kits), metal barrels are nice, because plastic variant can never be as nicely drilled especially with smaller calibers, but with wooden decks I just don't see that much of real advantage using them.
I see what you’re saying. I would ask you to consider the opposite, though. If you go out of your way to paint the hull and other plastic parts to look like metal as much as possible, then a real wood deck will only help that appearance. Besides, if you take a flat piece of metal and a flat piece of plastic, put a couple coats of paint on it.... at this scale you can’t tell the difference without touching it, in my opinion. All the PE on the Missouri build looks just like the plastic part I painted.
First !
You win ; )