1:200 RMS Titanic Build Video 18
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This video introduces our Client's build.
Check out our website for cool T-Shirts and upcoming items:
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You can get all of the PE hull plating shown in this video from MiniBrass in France. Here's the site:
www.minibrass....
The rest of the PE comes from Woody's Model Works in the UK:
www.woodysmode...
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Absolutely agree with you about K.A. The instructions are completely opaque especially for the forward bulkhead & railing caps
So glad you decided to include your client's build. Double the fun, and information.
Thanks so much guys. I was looking for help in folding stairs and also the colours to use. So your video was a great help.
I agree that the KA instructions are a nightmare. I spend so much time going through the pages over and over and over looking for one specific part. As an aside I did find at the bottom of page 12 those stairs are shown as D02.
Fantastic work. Love every video. Love my shirt as well.
The brown trim details if you look at the edge detail on the off cuts of the scale decks sheets there is a fine dark line that can be cut into strips and works perfect in this area .
Hi Ben/Nora, I've enjoyed watching your build. I've worked on ships in the Merchant Marines for many years, and I can tell you that the "vents" you refer to at 24:50 are in fact a type of rolling bollard. The wench you installed shortly prior to this requires that the mooring lines be guided to the capstans (which are oriented in line with the ship, but must pull roughly 90 degrees from the ship) and must in some way be guided to bollards and chocks that are closer to the edge of the ship. Those bollards in question are slanted at an angle in order to properly guide the mooring line, from chock height, to capstan height, otherwise, under tension the mooring line would fly off the top of the bollard. They should be oriented such that they are angled away from the capstan, as you have done it. If you had oriented them the other way, it would have been incorrect. Just thought I'd educate you on what those were, why they were angled, and which way is correct. Cheers and thanks for the great videos!
Looking good. As usual, can't wait for the next video.
Outstanding job Ben your videos are top quality sound is crystalline clear and your voice over is very explanatory / to the point and helpful and Nora as always is a sweetheart
can't thank you enough!
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, words fail me! This belongs in a street-side window at a museum.
I think Nora has given you a suggestion for a new t shirt ;)
I would buy a "Nora said, Eat Poop" shirt!
Thanks for the tips, also you might try Vallejo or MRP acrylic paints. I can say they spray great and are brush-able. Of course paints are a very subjective item, influenced by personal preference. Just waiting for coffee mugs.
You can buy them now 😉
Outstanding detailed explication, especially for all the PE ladders (in my beloved Navy -- where I served for 2-plus decades, first as an enlisted man, a CPO and then a commissioned officer, stairs are called "ladders" ;-) ). The detail on your client's ship is exceptional and if someone has the money, it makes sense to go with PE and the resin and the scale wooden decks to add to her nautical realism. I believe it was Chester Nimitz, by the way, who explained why ships in Great Britain and the US are referred to as 'her' and 'she': "A ship is always referred to as 'she' because it costs so much to keep one in paint and powder" LOL! P.S. I'll be using your videos as the definitive 'how to' for this model build. I've never done a Titanic in so large a scale, so this ought to be 'interesting' (and what's the Chinese curse about always living in interesting times?).
This is great problem solving and remedy tips for those of us taking the 'hells highway' route with this stuff! I solved the battleship plating problem on the well decks by cutting it out completely. I then used a sandwich of the scale the titanic PE, the Pontos and the KA to get a strong but scale thickness side wall in those areas. The Scale the Titanic kit PE really needs a lot of work to remove the plastic from the hull and window areas affected. That has taken me ages to sort out and the mess!!!! Great video, showing us all the possible pitfalls. Many thanks Ben this stuff is excellent. 😉
This is very interesting information for this build, thanks for your time and hard work in posting these video's it's greatly appreciated ...keep up the great work.
Absolutely Epic episode Ben and Nora!
I'm really glad you showcased your client's build in this episode as well.
It's very nice to see the work you've put into it, and some of the differences between this one and the one you're building for yourself.
Take care and happy modeling!
Great work and wonderfull explanations by the way. As a modeler myself I believe you can´t get enough tips on how to go about certain things, even if they do seem so basic and trivial. My intention is not to gripe but to acknowledge that we the modelmakers have a say regarding the kits we build. One terrible fact that many modelers have to face is the unacceptable state of deformity many of the pieces come in these kits. Talk about quality control. Needless to mention the high price one ends up paying for these larger scale models. On top of that all the necessary extra work that goes into trying to salvage parts bent badly out of shape or just plain don't fit. If that wasn´t the worst many times buying parts from other manufacturers or building them from scratch, yes we´ve all been there. As a wonderfull community of model makers, my hats off to any and everyone who builds and painstainkingly takes the extra time and effort to share his or her work with all, to them my full appreciation and gratitude. Nevertheless, these works of art don't get finished by magic and sometimes the model industry is just a little too abusive. Please forgive my comment, I believe you are way overdue a compliment by the model manufacturing industry, as they see you put in the extra work to make their finished models museum quality. Congratulations once again.
I agree with Kip Jackson, I would be most interested in how you ship such a large quality piece. Keep up the great work.
Nora is hysterical. Thanks! The engineering you are going through is amazing. It would have been interesting to see if the Titanic had survived if it had sides built of battleship armor! Sigh. I love the lines of your model. The lines of the ship is another reason why its sinking was sad. 12 in a lifeboat sucks. I've not done much with PE yet. I think part of the reason why is the bending. Your tool makes it look much easier than I think it is. Good tools make work much easier. OK, enough of a ramble. Great job Ben!
Peter Davies-Garner's plans has squash court light and air ventilation shafts in front of the forward well deck aft bulkhead (behind the no. 3 hatch and in between the two cranes). I have yet to see a model with those vents. Even Peter didn't add them to his model which is odd. Some members of a Titanic forum said the shaft leads to mushroom vents while another said it's a grill protected by trunk vents.
I guess modellers omit the squash court L & A because no one knows exactly what it looks like.
Yep. I’m just installing what KA has provided.
Very nice and continue with both builds...there is knowledge to be had on both. Thanks!
Ben/Nora: I'd love to see or hear you talk about how you're shipping your client's finished reproduction. I'd even like to know what the cost of doing such a thing would be.
To be able to see the model situated in it's shipping container as you design it would be of great value to all of us watching.
Great video as always but personally Think you should gave added the styrin to the bottom of the other 2 stairs that way the hand rail would be a lot higher on the next deck
I almost did. But looking at the instructions, I don’t know if anyone will actually see them. So, I think the plan is to check what the end results are. If it’s going to be clearly visible, I’ll pop this stairs off and add the styrene.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Ben my kit has just arrived so I will be following what your doing very closely. Love the channel keep up the good work.
I'm loving this series so much! If it's ok with you, I'd like to make a video request. Once you're done with these builds, could you then do a video where you piece together all the different parts to make what you consider to be the "definitive" kit?
Yep
@@TheMidwestModelShop You rock!
I would like to see that too especially the cost. i am working on Bismarck and with the kit, 2 Pontos photo etch sets, assorted paint and other stuff, easily have spent over $1,000. I am sure the titanic could be very much more.
I got my shirt. Nice quality.
Hello again friends. Hope all is well. If I may be allowed, Ben you really need to be referencing 'Titanic, The Ship Magnificent' books a bit more (IMO). All of your doubts in the videos so far, have been clarified in these books. I realized that they come at a steep price, however the added degree of accuracy is well worth the price. Thanks. Stay well and safe. Continued success to you and Nora.
Those are the books I have. However, flipping through the pages for my answers takes time.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Gotcha. You can also look through the photos of Braunsweiger's MINICRAFT Titanic as they are extremely accurate.
Thank you for describing other options. Great video. A couple of questions/comments. First, all the PE hull siding is there to give a better scale appearance of the A and B decks. When it comes to the well decks, the styrene hull thickness is present. Yet with Elixander's hull sides (now available from Mini Brass) and PE parts for the inside of the well decks (multiple sources) it seems possible to remove the styrene thickness in in the well deck area and just have the thickness of the PE. Should provide better scale appearance. Any comments on that approach? What issues would you anticipate with the fit of the wooden decks?
Second, Scale Decks has a couple versions of the wooden decks, some are a little wider. Which versions were used and how did the waterways fit in?
Yes, if you use those hull sides from mini brass, you could cut out the well deck walls and have the correct size walls. And a couple people out there have done it. But the first issue is the wooden deck. It is too narrow if you do that. The solution so far, has been to cut the deck and use extra parts of decking to fill in the difference. I’m not aware of scale decks having made a well deck piece to accommodate this modification. The other problem is the transition to the forecastle. There isn’t any PE for that part we’re it curves up from the bulwark to the deck. So you have to figure out how to thin the kit styrene. It’s not impossible, but Im not sure about the best way to go about it.
I ordered my deck very early on. So they fit inside of the stock kit. I don’t know about a slightly wider version. But so far, I haven’t ran into anything that makes me wish I had something else.
Hi you've certainly done a great build on this master piece looks fantastic. I was wondering im shure you showed us a model car on one of your videos it was for titanic a vintage car would you happen to have a link from where you bought it from. Thanks 👍
A hundred years from now will people be building models of 21st century cruise ships?
If it’s famous enough.
The forecastle hach sides front left and right are black, not orange And the fore well deck holes on each side are open, no cover plates. The capstans are green top brass and from the fore hatch, the anchor gear to the big capstans and what thay are sitting on are also green. Not the chains or what the chains are sitting on.
I want to buy some more model kits, but they are all so hard to find right now. Even Amazon says they won't ship for at least 5 days, and even then, some won't arrive until mid-March at the earliest. It's ridiculous.
Ben: Have a wee look at 31:30 on the video. Is the black piece not blocking off the doorway?
Looking at various photos online, it looks like you've mounted it just a tad too close to the bulkhead wall. Mind you, the chances of anyone noticing ............. 😁
You can surely tell; I'm really getting into this now. I've always been interested in the story of this ship but studying detailed photos? That's your fault.😂
It does sit too close. But that is the correct position for the piece. I think the door is molded in the wrong place.
@@TheMidwestModelShop It'll never be seen. With the close-up photography, we're seeing these tiny details far more clearly than anyone will see with the naked eye.
Did you glue the stairs at all four points, or only at the bottom or top points on the stairs? The build is looking great, really like how you think though each assembly and installation.
All four points 😉
Are your models handcrafted?!
Going to the back well deck, the door looks like it's blocked by the bollard, just doesn't look right not that I'm an expert on this?🤔
Hello, what brand/model of air brush do you recommend for a beginner user? (12 years old) Thank you!
Hello! When I was 12 I had a single action airbrush that I learned to paint with. When I had figured it out, I eventually purchased a double action airbrush. It does the same thing, but a lot faster because you can adjust the spray pattern at will. I currently use an Iwata. I do recommend looking into the brand.
Heya mate, how much plastic did you remove from the kit super structure parts before fitting the photo etch parts? I have the photo etch sheets and wasnt sure how much to remove, especially around the forward and aft 'rail' sections. I asked this question on the "Trumpeter Titanic 1/200 model ONLY" FB group but not had much luck with an answer there yet... did you attach the KA PE parts to the inside face of the MiniBrass PE? I Hope that makes sense, thanks 😊
Well if I can recall, you only need to remove the raised surfaces. And yes, I attached the KA PE to the Minibrass PE. Except in the well deck areas. You need to leave the kit plastic there unless you want to do some clever engineering to make those parts work correctly.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Noice one, thanks buddy, I will do a bit of monkeying around and see what works. It's a bit scary, as I don't want to ruin what I've done so far. I am confident I can remedy any mistakes I make with the plastic, but the PE stuff I cannot afford to screw up! I just want to crack on with the build as I don't get much time to spend on this. When I do get everything out, try and work out an order of battle, where parts need to go, how to get them to fit etc, I end up running out of time and have to put it all away again, having achieved no progress! (Or I get distracted and end up just watching Midwest Model Shop Videos...) haha, Have a great day anyway! 😊
The drains on the deck, what color grey did you use?
It’s light grey or ghost grey.
How much would it cost for you to build a Trumpeter Titanic for me? I don't have the patience/time/space to build a model like that
great video , what paint are you using for the orange brown in the well decks
I put a layer of white on first and then spray over it with “Model Master Flesh”.
What color are you using for the well decks?
Did you have to drill out the portholes since your client didn’t want it lit? Just wondering what options there are because if I get enough money, I’m wanting to get a Trumpeter kit and I don’t plan to light mine if I do.
No I just painted them gloss black so it reflects as if there is glass in the porthole.
HI ben can I ask what Orange number did you used to paint the inside of the deck
Is there any update on the scale decks KA decks?
No idea.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I ended up getting the one that was available on Amazon, it should arrive soon. Thanks for all of this. You guys have brought my confidence up 110%. Pressin on
@Bob-un1qy any wood deck is better than no wood deck!
@@TheMidwestModelShop It is the scale deck one, so I am excited. I am curious to see if it comes in as a greener shade... Anyhow, thanks for the recommendation.
Great video, but whats the styrene 0,5 mm at 12 mn 34 please. Thank you
It’s just 0.5mm x 0.5mm styrene. On the real titanic there was a wooden trim that ran around the edge of the bulkheads there. I’m trying to represent that with the styrene. It is not part of the kit or aftermarket details.
@@TheMidwestModelShopThank you, the styrene EVERGREEN EG120 ? EVERGREEN EG110 ?
Yes I believe so.
The side of the stairs are not white?
Not in my references 🤷🏻♂️
What is this orange color?
It’s two colors. And because I’m in Brussels having beer, I’m going to recommend going to our website. Under the paint link I list everything I use in each build. Because it’s a white base coat first. Then… another color.
@@TheMidwestModelShop aight, thank you for respond. Enjoy your time
Boring ! Too much blablablabla ... makes me dizzy ! He should write a book instead of blablabla ...
You don’t strike me as the kind of guy who “reads” very much…
Boring? Your obviously in the wrong place for all the wrong reasons.
These warped Hulls seem quite common on these Trumpeter kits.
I’m visualizing a big heap of Hulls stacked up in the factory like plastic coffee cups?
Hahaha! Well, I think someone was pulling them out of the mold too quickly.