This is my second time I used the CRC Intake Valve And Turbo Cleaner in my 2013 Chevy Equinox. After using the first time I noticed a significant difference in the performance. After about 5000 more miles I used it again today and came back from driving the car on the highway for about 15 miles. I noticed the difference in performance but not like the first time. So I think the first time I must have had more carbon deposits. Since this is repeater I am not noticing a huge difference. This stuff works!! Thank you CRC!
8/19/2022 WOW! I just did this for the first time on my 2014 Honda Accord after getting a check engine light at 175,000 miles. The engine light diagnostic showed Error Code P0087: Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low. I thought it might be the fuel pump which would’ve been around $1500 to fix. So before doing that, i changed the air filter and used the CRC GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner and i must say I’m extremely happy! Not only did the engine light go off and i saved myself a lot of money, but after about the second day as this cleaner continued to work it’s magic, my Honda is running like she’s in her early 20s again! I highly recommend treating your car with this!
Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv
I’ve just used this product on my Aussie 2013 Holden V6 LFX engine. I was just as skeptic as the next person, but I have to say that it’s helped. My smooth idle has returned. Taking off from the lights the engine no longer bogs down. I’m happy to recommend CRC GDI.
Thank you for sharing your results! We are happy that you are pleased with CRC GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner and hope you continue to enjoy the benefits it brings to your vehicle!
Used two days ago on my 2016 Mazda CX-5 with 55,000 miles on it. Used as directed. Had check engine light and several other warnings come up while doing it. After the heat soak car started up normally with only check engine light on that went of after about an hour of driving. Seemed to help idle and performance although while doing the procedure I didn't have hardly any smoke coming from the exhaust. Will do an oil change today. Product worked as advertised.
It does work but you need to careful because this can grab big carbon deposits and break off after the 1 hour heat soak and inevitably clogs your catylatic converters
Interestingly, the instructions on the New Zealand version of the CRC Intake Valve Cleaner say to spray "continuously for 30 second intervals", rather than in short bursts. I was following the instructions on the can, and my car reported a P0132 (upstream oxygen sensor voltage high) during application. Also, the engine started pinging while driving following the heat soak, so I'd recommend going easy on the accelerator for the first 15 minutes.
I made this treatment yesterday on my hyundai i30 gdi 1.6 135 hp 77.000 km. After an 1 hour an 10 minutes i drove the car at 4.000 rpm for 20 minutes. When i hit 4000rpm in second gear a huge cloud of smoke was released and i heard some noises on the evac, i think that was carbon build parts. The product made his job.
How much improved the MPG in your hyundai? The same happened to me today on a Kia Soul 2013 1.6 , when I hit 4000 I hear a sound and saw a huge cloud of white smoke, the MPG has improved from 19 to 25 on the first day, awasome
@@fernandoruiz734 I did this job today, nothing happened, no smoke, nothing improved at all, and I have never done this before with a Kia soul 2012 and 66K miles on it. I use the PCV hose and one can, wait one hour and drive on the freeway or why. I follow all the instruction
@@irisbaez1972 Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv. Will this not damage the MAP and IAT sensors?
@@blackriderph4340 Yes, kia soul 20112 automatic has a MAP. doesn't have MAFS. My Elantra 2008 has MAFS. I did the same job in my Elantra and nothing improve, no smoke at all. I use in both cars the PCV hose.
I just did this on my 2014 accord 2.4 and it was a one owner car but I had poor mpg. If you follow the instructions and I sprayed through the brake booster hose on the intake manifold. During the idle process I fogged up my whole block. Then when I drove it it was bad the fog was everywhere but it fixed my low mpg and idle issue.
not enough words can explain how satisfied i am with how well using that cleaner turned out so far my car runs so much smoother it sounds different, like the car doesnt need nearly as much effort to accelerate, starting from a stop doesnt feel like a chore the car has to endure anymore, and it no longer hesitates on big pull accelerations, like its significantly better now, even the turbo sounds happier and i did this by simply going through the intake past the MAF and through the turbo and intercooler. Thank you for this video CRC im planning on continual use, my car feels amazing now
Thank you for giving GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner the opportunity to lend a helping hand. Stories like yours are what inspire us to develop the best solutions and innovations in automotive maintenance chemicals.
yep all the above for me! just used your product!! sprayed scrubbed directly on the valves..used brass brushes port by port and sucked it out....broke up very clean and it took me 6 hours but well worth it!
I did the same today. Disassemble the intake manifold and throttle body scraped off every intake valve and reassemble everything. It really was dirty but I left it really clean. Then I added a second can following the instructions in the can. I saw a really big cloud of smoke coming out of the tailpipe. So I ended using 2 cans. Total work time about 5 hours! But I am really happy!!! No more fucking misfires !!! No more fucking rattles !!! I saw this guy who had a bmw and he was doing all the above process but no adding the second can. So I said...I want to be really sure I will do the 2 methods!!! :D The results are like difference between night and day !!!
@@joecualquiera when you say "I added a second can following the instructions on the can" I wonder where did you sprayed the can into? If the MAS sensor is in intake, on the n54 335i
Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv
Informative video! We used this on my wife's 2018 Pathfinder, and heard a ticking sound, as some carbon broke off, and bounced around the drivetrain before blowing out the exhaust lol. So I plan on using a can of this every year for solid preventative maintenance
@@gefreiterkurzmaul it bounced around the drivetrain... HAHAHA. pretty sure your exhaust isn't connected to your drivetrain... fuck this is hilarious...
Used this in a 2016 Mustang EcoBoost with 25000 miles. Sprayed it in the intake duct just after the MAF? sensor. Seems to have worked very well. Off idle throttle has definitely improved. Throttle response seems smoother. Will update if I find and downsides if any happen. Engine did not throw a code and no smoke etc happened.
If used as regular maintenance, ie, 10k intervals, it's safe on turbo GDIs, but as a fix for heavily gunked valves, is there a risk that a chunk of carbon deposit will dislodge and mess up the hot side of the turbo - just like person getting a stroke from a dislodged blood clot? Also, some cars in addition to a MAF sensor by the air cleaner, also have a boost pressure sensor near the intercooler and a MAP/IAT sensor on the intake manifold. Is the product safe on those sensors? It's probably safe on pressure based sensors, but the IAT portion of the MAP might be affected negatively.
A few things to note. While a carbon piece might make its way into the turbo, the turbine blades will likely be fine with such a light piece of debris hitting them at such a low engine load (reving up at idle). The boost/MAP sensors will be fine since even if a film is deposited, that won't affect a pressure reading. It also hasn't ever affected my IAT readings before and after.
@@blackriderph4340 I have done it on my '17 Mazda6 at 25k miles on the odo, which has all three MAF, IAT, and MAP sensors (no turbo), and it runs fine. I can't tell if it did anything and I haven't visually checked before and after on the valves. I haven't done it on my turbo CX-5 yet. It's still under factory warranty and don't want to risk.
@@dogwink i have the same setup in my mazda3. The map and iat sensors are in the manifold. I still cant decide if i will use this procedure. Ill buy the product anyway it can still be used in manual cleaning. Thanks for your feedback
Got a lean condition po171 and I have done so many parts swaps at just under 100k on a 1.4 luv cruize this has to be my savior Can this be done at or under freezing temperatures? Should the oil be changed after wards? How many times should it be done to get that walnut blast clean effect?
Just used today, 4-15-22 on my 2006 Subaru sti w/140,000 miles. Ej257 engine w/ port injection. I/m readiness 5 complete. 2 are not. Catalyst and o2 sensor. Also idle fluctuating slightly between 500 and 750.
Does weather conditions during application matter? I assume it should be best applied outdoors. At cold temperatures it seems to not to travel with air but form paddles instead and drip out of the air duct.
The product does indeed work, but there is a problem. My oil analysis shows the hard particulates in the oil skyrocketed after performing this service. Not all of the carbon is consumed or exited the exhaust. How of this stuff remains in the catalytic converter. Fine soot and carbon mixes with the fuel and oil on the cylinder walls and is forced past the rings contaminating the oil. It took two oil changes within 100 miles to get the levels back to normal. A typical oil change leaves behind 10-20% of the contaminated oil. The typical 25 micron filter is not going to remove 2-15 micron size carbon particulates. If you perform this service change you oil afterwards and a second time.
So according to this video, you need 2 people to do the service? 1 person to spray the product and 1 person to keep the RPM at 2k while they spray it? Or can you do it all by yourself and rev it up to 2k after emptying the whole can?
Put a piece of wood against the front of the drivers seat and onto the gas pedal. If you have a power seat moved the seat forward until the revs reach 2000-2200 rpms. Then go up and spray the product in short 3 second or so bursts until the whole can is empty. It may take 15-20 minutes to empty the can. Reattach any parts you removed and rev the enigine to no more than 3500 rpms 2-3 times. Turn the ignition off and let the car sit for a solid hour. By the way go for a little highway ride to heat the engine and catalytic converter up before doing this service. After it sits for an hour with the product applied go for a 15-20 minute drive with a few bursts of moderate hard acceleration.
I just used it on my Hyundai GDI, with 30K miles on it. And it worked great, luckily my car doesnt even have a MAF sensor, so I just sprayed it into the intake and I figure the engine is super small I only used half a bottle. waited an hour for the heat soak and drove it on the freeway, it had a little hesitation, then I saw that it expelled a huge puff of smoke, and after that the car ran like new. The Idle is back to what it was before and just seems a little more responsive when I step on the gas. I don't think there was too much build up since it was only 30K miles but I wanted to do it as a preventative measure. I'm hoping it will continue to clean like it says in the video and I will probably use the rest of the can after 1000 miles.
Thank you for sharing your experience with our GDI Intake Valve & Turbo cleaner. We hope you continue to see great results. In the future we do recommend to use the entire can of product in order to receive the full cleaning effect. Remember to spray in short 1 second burst to avoid any pooling which may be the reason for the puff of smoke.
Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv
3.5 Ecoboost F-150. Spraying into the air box goes directly into the air tube ducting then into the intercooler. My main concern is that the product will pool in the intercooler and stay there till a WOT event then flooded into the engine. Does it stay liquid form or does it evaporate shortly after sprayed??
Don’t listen to the idiots saying this is bad for your engine from causing damage to your cylinders. The formula dissolves the carbon in a safe manner that doesn’t cause scarring to metal surfaces. Also, CRC is a highly reputable company that performs with quality. They don’t create solutions that make matters worse. Moreover, after using about 5 applications of this specific product on my GDI engine, I can say that acceleration and idle have a noticeable improvement. I would recommend using it at every oil change to really help eliminate all carbon deposits on your intake valves. For only $10-$15 more per oil change, you can keep peace of mind your engine won’t struggle and die a premature death from unnecessary stress.
At CRC Industries, we measure ourselves by the quality and efficacy of our products and the satisfaction of our customers. Thank you for your comment and support.
And also using the product as directed. Some people will buy it, skip or modify some of the steps then get mad when it doesn't work the way it should. The most common being not heat soaking the engine first.
Instructions say to spray directly into throttle body with the intake hose disconnected... but is that while it's running? if so, that would trigger a check engine or rough idle since the mass air flow is reading incorrectly the air going into the engine. Am i missing something?
How would I use this product on my 2024 KIA SELTOS SX with a 1.6L Turbo GDI Smartstream Engine? Pics or video would be very helpful as well😊 Thank you.
I just bought a can for my 07 Mitsubishi 380 with 300k on the clock but now I'm thinking there will be to much carbon built up & may glog my cat? I just bought the car and unsure what oil has been used & fuel quality.
Why are there no answers to the questions in the comment section of the video? I also have some of the same questions. Where does the carbon go if it breaks a piece of carbon off? I have heard if that were to happen it can destroy a turbo charger. Is this true?
@CRCAutoUS I am asking a very pointed question. Please respond with a detailed answer. 2017 VW Passat with the TSI (170hp) turbo motor: Where do I insert the spray nozzle? I ask because the airflow meter is immediately in front of the turbocharger and against the firewall.
2013 BMW ActiveHybrid 3, 150k. Possibly dumb question: On turbo cars, do you spray it _both_ into the intake manifold (to clean the valves) _and_ down the charge pipe (to clean the turbo vanes)?
So if I run it through my turbo, should I just not let it hit my MAF or should I also take off my MAP sensors? Mine has 2, one on the intake manifold and the other on my cold side charge pipe
Yes this product is safe to use on this vehicle. The product contains a high level PEA which clings to the carbon, dissolving it rather than breaking it off into chunks that could cause damage. If you have further questions or concerns please feel free to contact our technical service department at Ph. 800.521.3168
@@PIP_SLUHT1900 Which seals are we talking about? Yes, problems could occur when using a solvent based cleaner. Our product is a detergent based cleaner.
The description of the product implies to me that the carbon deposit is dissolved (i.e. liquefied) so that it can be burned off safely without sending damaging solids into the combustion chamber or catalytic converters. Meanwhile, at minute 9:30 of this video it states "Additional carbon that's been loosened is safely removed by the heat and pressure of engine operation", which really sounds like the carbon deposit will be made to break free ("loosened") from the intake valves. Maybe getting into semantics here, but I would buy into the idea that the loosened carbon deposit is "...safely removed [FROM THE INTAKE VALVES] by the heat and pressure...", but why am I not convinced that the carbon deposit that is loosened from the valves is safe for the combustion chambers or catalytic converters? Seems to me that this product should only really be used starting on a brand new vehicle as a preventative measure against carbon buildup. Convince me otherwise.
Thank you for your comment. To clarify the CRC GDI Cleaner emulsifies the carbon so that chunks will not break away and cause damage. Also we do recommend this product be used from the beginning as a preventative service to reduce carbon buildup but we also have proven test results for vehicles with more than 100K miles. You can view our test results at crcgdi.com
@@CRCAutoUS Thanks for your reply. Does the emulsified material contain solid carbon particulate in suspension, or is the carbon completely liquefied, i.e. soft enough that it will not have any damaging abrasive effect on the engine internals?
It softens the carbon so it passes harmlessly out of the engine. In a turbo car, the last thing you want is a chunk of carbon getting into your turbine that's spinning at 100,000 RPM.
@@steveyemenijian6070 I did oil analysis and the presence of hard carbon particulates skyrocketed after the service in my car. It took 2 oil changes in the first 100 miles to get rid of it.
I have my intake manifold off as of right now , just to make sure , can I spray this on top of the valves , let it soak , scape it off and throb vacuum out the crap ?
So, just to be clear for turbocharged GDI engines, this product MUST be sprayed AFTER the turbo, correct? If I wanted to clean the turbo impellers as well, I would have to remove the turbo from the engine for treatment?
Thank you for your comment. No the product can be sprayed before the Turbo. For example from the air filter housing. This will allow the product to go thru the front of the turbo, intercooler, valves, and exhaust side of the turbo.
@@john123mike One way is not better than the other. It is just another option that may be more convenient in some vehicles since access to the throttle body is not always as easy in certain vehicles.
Nice animation but please show some proof with a borescope! Use the product as directed and show us w/ borescope before treatment and what it does after 1K miles. I keep hearing horror stories of engines rattling... would love to see you guys actually put out a real before and after video. As I love the concept but am a little hesitant to use product as directed. I am 100% sure it will work if I take off the intake manifold and spray it in directly and scrub the valves myself.... but you guys claim it will work by just spraying into air intake.... please do a more thorough video. Also, need some clarification as to whether or not to change oil after use of this product. I have Mazda CX 5 w/ 36K miles.... not sure if I should use it before or after oil change, also want to make sure that any deposits that come off won't scratch up the sides of the combustion chamber. I'm sure there are plenty of folks out there, like myself, who would love to see this product suceed and be all that it claims to be, we just need a little more proof with real life experiences and videos. Would be a good investement on the part of CRC to spend a little more time making such videos or sponsor some mechancis to make more through videos w/ before and after effects.
It does cleaning the walls pretty well, but the deposits on the valve is pretty hard to clean. With yours at 36K miles, I doubt it will do much. I use it every 5k. the walls are like new, but the valve still accumulate deposits even with a oil catch can. I did it before oil change.
Removing the intake manifold on the CX-5 is VERY easy. Its cleaning and scraping the deposits from the ports and valves that take up the majority of the time but well worth the work. After that, I bet you your skyactiv engine will run so smooth you don't even notice it running. This is from experience.
I have been using this for multiple vehicles and I always do it prior to my oil change. As the video says do it every 10k or at every oil change. I send my oil to Blackstone, and they could see the chemicals in the oil. I do it as a preventative so carbon DOESN'T build up. Once it builds up, it will take multiple applications...important to heat sink the product.
@@ConstantXplorer Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv
@@blackriderph4340 Yes you can use it on cars that are equipped with those sensors as my car has them. You have to make sure to spray it past the throttle body neck...and NOT into the air intake housing. Make sure you remove the air filter housing and point place the tube right into the throttle body...close enough to the valve opening. This will by pass the sensor altogether.
@@blackriderph4340 Take a look at this simple instructional. My car run quite a bit smoother these days. I plan to do this after each oil change. I also make sure to go with full synthetic oil as well. Every once in a while a fuel cleaner is added....but only after about 3,000-5,000 miles. th-cam.com/video/EmjaM0sIUwU/w-d-xo.html
Do you recommend changing the oil after this service on a turbo GDI with blowby? Hyundais/Kias have some excessive blowby on their 1.6t and it is certain this product will get into the oil and likely all components cooled by oil....like turbo seals....
PEA is a dispersant and antioxidant compound. It doesn´t attach oil neither seals. Although you can have it in a curing agent of epoxy glue for less money, kkk.
Other than the form factor is this product the same as the crc guaranteed to pass emissions from a chemistry point of view, I am guessing if the crc guaranteed to pass emissions was injected through a source of vacuum in theory in should work the same way. Are this products identical or there are differences ? If there are differences what are they?
Hello! Did you remove the MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv. Will this not damage the MAP and IAT sensors?
@@blackriderph4340 on my particular car it’s not necessary to remove the map sensor, in some cases if the map sensor is downstream from where you will be spraying the cleaner you have to remove it but not for these sonatas. If your car has a mass airflow sensor downstream from where you’ll be spraying the cleaner you’ll have to remove it. I don’t know anything about your Mazda but if the map sensor is downstream be cautious and ask around a bit more. Sorry
I just wonder want happens to cylinder walls and piston rings as "carbon continues to be removed" days after treatment. They said at the begining that chunks can fall off if left untreated but couldnt chunks fall off with treatment? I get the necessity, but it seems like cganging auto trans fluid, for the first time, after 100,000 miles. Might hurt more than it helps
CRC, question; On the can it says to use every 10000 miles or before oil change. Does that actually mean i should be changing my oil after using it or can its not necessarily?
Please provide specific instruction for using this product with PEUGEOT 308 T9 2015 1.6THP (110KW). Where do I spray and do I need to remove MAF sensor?
I’ve used this product and I couldn’t drive at highway speeds either. I just drove around the block 10 times at reasonable high revs. I could see the “smoke” coming out the exhaust which would be the removed carbon. My engine has now returned to normal, smooth idle, no hesitation at take off.
Oh nice. My car hasn't turned on since. And when I mean not drivable, I mean, the car has a chance of dying on itself pretty often and it's a manual...i haven't practiced enough.
demands where at, its better to do it at the TP since it goes straight into the intake and combustion chambers; evenly throughout. The vacuum line option depending where it's located might only deliver a certain amount to a cylinder.
A question CRC, in a Ford Fiesta ST with EcoBoost 1.6L turbo engine, where is the recommended point to inject the cleaner? From the airbox trough compressor/ intercooler or thorugh the cold side hose after the intercooler and before throttle body? Thanks
Did you ever end up doing this? Have a focus st with 100k I just bought and the plugs were pretty bad so I'm thinking of doing this too...might do it the real way and take the manifold off and use gas and a brush with the valves closed
When using this product what happens to the carbon that is on the valves? Doesn't it get into the cylinder and onto the pistons??? That can't be good right?
Thank you for your comment. The product contains a high level of PEA which attaches to the carbon and slowly dissolves it so chunks of carbon will not break off and cause any damage.
I have a 2013 ford fusion eco boost 2.0 liter turbo charged. What vacuum hose can I spray the cleaner into I have no idea what one to use? I can’t access the throttle body it’s down by the radiator in front of the car almost under it.
maan!! R U telling me i cant use this on my 2010 hyundai iload turbo diesel? ive been researching for days on pick up can and found out the best going around is flashlube. i was researching just now and stumbled over this treatment. i was so excited i couldnt wait until the video ended so i can race to the store that sells it until you mentioned not to apply this product on diesel type motors. dont you have a product for us diesel users? What damage will it do if i used it? or ,aybe perhaps just spray a little amount? what about if i purchased low potent type in the market? please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for your comment. Our product chemistry is formulated for gasoline specifically. Diesel engines form carbon on other areas not too much on intake valves when compared to GDI so, we recommend a fuel additive for diesel engines with carbon build up. CRC 1-Tank Diesel www.crcindustries.com/products/diesel-1-tank-power-renew-174-15-fl-oz-05816.html
I’m very curious to try this on my 2017 VOLVO XC60 T6 R design with the 2.0 four cylinder engine that has both a supercharger and turbocharger. Do you have a video showing those results? I understand these engines have no oil dipstick and carbon build up on the valves is horrendous. Thank you
Hello ! I have 2018 Honda Accord Sport 1.5 turbo Vtec 29000 miles . It’s already has bad fuel consumption , and poor performance . Honda dealer said that it’s carbon buildup and price for cleaning is 290$ . I watched this video and decided to try it first . Were should i spray this to clean everything? Thank you !
Good morning Roman! We recommend spraying in the product from the air filter housing or as close to the throttle body as possible. All of our testing on turbo and non-turbo engines was conducted from the air filter housing. Visit www.crcindustries.com/gdi to see all of our testing data. If there are further questions please contact technical service 1.800.521.3168 M-F 8-5EST or techservice@crcind.com
@@CRCAutoUSIf I spray directly at throttle body, turbo will not be cleaned correct? As turbo is before the throttle body. To clean both I have to locate the spot after my maf sensor?
Is there a recommendation on, Before or after oil change? The instruction video says 1,000 miles between applications on extreme. Is there a maintenance schedule?
Thank you for your comment. We recommend performing the service first and then changing oil and filter. After that its every 10,000 miles or every oil change for maintenance. If your vehicle has high miles or you know it has heavy build up you can do another service after 1,000 miles. Then move onto the general maintenance schedule.
Questions. 2008 Mini Cooper S (Turbo) If I apply after MAF sensor just prior to turbo intake, will CRC go on to clean the intake valves? OR, should I do a second treatment applied after the turbo closer to the intake? I'm trying to achieve maximum efficiency. Are we sure the deposits that become dislodged wont become stuck in the catalytic converter? How can we tell? Can CRC be added directly to the crank case prior to oil change?
Hello, i checked your product and i cannot locate any sellers in Greece. Also I have a question, can i use the CRC GDI Valve Cleaner 500ml in Turbo cars like audi A3 2.0TFSI
Thank you for watching, yes this product is safe and has been proven very effective at cleaning turbos. Please contact info@crcind.com for information on where it can be purchased.
Correct me if I'm wrong...but. if you're running a 2.7 or 3.5 Ford ecoboost, could you not just disconnect the recirculation pipe from the "bov" and spray into that while it's running?
You could do this, but you are spending more time to get the product in the system. The charge pipes usually lead right in to the throttle body as well if you want to spray after the clean side of the turbos. These methods could throw a code causing the check engine light. Spraying in from the air filter housing on turbo charged vehicles is fine, the product will make it to the intake valves. For more information reach out to our Technical Service Team 1.800.521.3168 or techservice@crcind.com M-F 8-5 EST.
1). I used your produce in a Solstice GXP, but some are saying it could be dangerous as it could loosen chunks of carbon that could fall into the cylinder, and or damage the turbo wheel, and/or clog the cat. Could this happen if there's heavy build up? 2). Does the cleaner also help clean the catalytic converter or do you need another chemical for that?
Hi there. Thanks for your question. Please contact our technical services at techservice@crcind.com , who will provide knowledge advice on using this product
You can spray in from the air filter housing or as close to the throttle body as possible. Contact technical service at crcindustries.com or 1-800-521-3168 M-F 8am-5pm ET
I have an 2011 MKS 3.5 Ecoboost, since this car has 3 maf sensors, where do i have to spray the product? Thank you for your help. or im wrong about the maf and are map? Could you pin point where i have to spray please.
Thank you for your comment. The product will not harm MAP’s. The Ecoboost’ s may use 1 MAF and 2 MAP’s or 3 MAP’s and no MAF. You can spray the product from the air filter housing, thru the MAF if equipped. or thru the throttle body.
@@joaragonI'm not exactly convinced of this. Granted I can't see exactly what I've got going on, I can only just barely see the fuel rail, but I've got a 2010, same car and the thing that brought me here to this video is because it started shuddering as I exited the e-way, then after a few start ups it's back to normal. Check engine light told me cylinder 2 misfired and low fuel rail pressure, pointing my mind in the direction of fuel injector stuck open. Upon pricing one out, all I found is the high pressure fuel injector for $200 each... nowhere in that listing did they mention another lower pressure fuel injector, and I highly doubt this car uses a high-pressure injector on both sides of the valve.
Asking for advice again. I tried two times already but no good result on my car, 2011 VW Tiguan. I sprayed thru the intake air hose right after MAF sensor. But I feel maybe better result if I find the brake booster vacuum hose. The vacuum line from vacuum pump has three ways out; one to brake booster, second one to a metal tube, third one leading to some kind of black box near throttle body. Could you tell me which one I need to inject this CRC spray?
I have a Hyundai Tucson with GDI 1.6 turbo that is burning oil and completely empty by 1,000 miles. No smoke or visible leaks (oil spots on driveway etc) but definitely signs of carbon build-up. It's been like this for about a year now and has 87k miles on it. My question is about how long can a car go with build-up before internal parts are damaged?
How can you run the engine with the charge pipes disconnected? Makes no sense, your saying spray while it's on. How would the car turn on? Won't it throw a code?
Hi, I have a port injected engine so I don't need valve cleaning but I want to clean the piston heads & rings. Is it safe to spray the product directly into cylinders thought spark plug holes and soak the pistons? If yes, how long can I keep the product in the cylinder? It is a cast iron Mercedes M111 engine. I don't want to spray it in to the intake because the MAF and Supercharger is on the way. Thanks in advance.
While this product will work great on a running engine, we just don’t have the testing data to say it is ok to apply it this way. We recommend that you contact our techservice @crcind.com for alternative application methods on a running engine.
CRC, my focus St has MAF sensor near the intake and additional sensors in the manifold. If I used CRC cleaner after MAF, will it affect the other sensors inside the manifold? My car has 120km without any carbon cleaning, what do you suggest?
Thank you for you comment. I believe the sensors you are referring to are the MAP sensors. This product will not harm passing over the MAP sensor, but will harm the MAF sensors. If you assistance verifying please contact our tech service department at techservice@crcind.com or 215.442.6290.
@@blackriderph4340 Hello, i tried the product twice and didn't have any issue with sensors, carbon was not removed either. I'd recommend opening the manifold at running temperature and remove gunk by piece of cloth. It is not 100% result but I wouldn't use any chemicals again .
So, I did this with my GDI engine over the weekend. Car is a genesis 5.0 which has a GDI 429 HP V8 engine with 70k miles. The problem I had was that for the life of me I couldn't get my car to idle at 2k RPM's, it's like the computer wouldn't let it. I could get the car to idle at 2k for a second but than the car just dropped to the 500 idle rpm.(no treatment yet)so I feathered it around 2k while someone else sprayed it. Engine seems smoother and acceleration is a bit better. I also did an oil change and put a k&n air filter. I was getting 6 second 0-60 times when I should be in the low 5's range. Now I'm getting in the 5.5 range still not where it should be. Dash command app says my HP went from 375 to 401(granted dash command is calculated and not actual HP, it still gives a rough idea of the engine status) I am going to buy a camera to look at my valves and wanted to do this treatment again. (new plugs as well)Do you think it is safe to do this again in a few hundred miles or should I wait till my next oil change?
Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv. Will this not damage the MAP and IAT sensors?
@@blackriderph4340 I’m not really sure. I drove this car for another 40k miles and it ran great till someone hit me and totaled it. Now I drive a twin turbo Infiniti, this has a temp sensor in the intake manifold and the maf sensor in the filter. I’ve been thinking about doing this but not sure yet. Would have to do the cleaning after the maf sensors for sure. Basically directly in the turbo intakes.
@@mikedavin671 thank you for the fast reply! My one remaining concern will be if the emulsified carbon bits might scratch and scour the cylinder walls. Probably not because yours drove fine.
Thank you for your comment. Our product chemistry is formulated for gasoline specifically. Diesel engines form carbon on other areas not too much on intake valves when compared to GDI so, we recommend a fuel additive for diesel engines with carbon build up. CRC 1-Tank Diesel www.crcindustries.com/products/diesel-1-tank-power-renew-174-15-fl-oz-05816.html
Instructions start at 10:48
Thanks
Knowledge starts at 0:00
You are my hero
Wish I would have read this comment before I spent 10:20 watching the other stuff.
The real mvp
This is my second time I used the CRC Intake Valve And Turbo Cleaner in my 2013 Chevy Equinox. After using the first time I noticed a significant difference in the performance. After about 5000 more miles I used it again today and came back from driving the car on the highway for about 15 miles. I noticed the difference in performance but not like the first time. So I think the first time I must have had more carbon deposits. Since this is repeater I am not noticing a huge difference. This stuff works!! Thank you CRC!
How to use ? I don't want to break mass airflow sensor ... also, did you change oil after using ?
Did you see any increase in fuel economy?
Did you use it directly through TB or intake air horse? Let me know
8/19/2022
WOW! I just did this for the first time on my 2014 Honda Accord after getting a check engine light at 175,000 miles. The engine light diagnostic showed Error Code P0087: Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low. I thought it might be the fuel pump which would’ve been around $1500 to fix. So before doing that, i changed the air filter and used the CRC GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner and i must say I’m extremely happy! Not only did the engine light go off and i saved myself a lot of money, but after about the second day as this cleaner continued to work it’s magic, my Honda is running like she’s in her early 20s again! I highly recommend treating your car with this!
Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv
Much better than the previous useless video. Thanks for the update... THUMBS UP.
I was thinking the same thing
Yes Thank You as well. I followed the trail you laid to here.
7:07 "how to" begins.
Also 10:47
I’ve just used this product on my Aussie 2013 Holden V6 LFX engine. I was just as skeptic as the next person, but I have to say that it’s helped. My smooth idle has returned. Taking off from the lights the engine no longer bogs down. I’m happy to recommend CRC GDI.
Thank you for sharing your results! We are happy that you are pleased with CRC GDI Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner and hope you continue to enjoy the benefits it brings to your vehicle!
Used two days ago on my 2016 Mazda CX-5 with 55,000 miles on it. Used as directed. Had check engine light and several other warnings come up while doing it. After the heat soak car started up normally with only check engine light on that went of after about an hour of driving. Seemed to help idle and performance although while doing the procedure I didn't have hardly any smoke coming from the exhaust. Will do an oil change today. Product worked as advertised.
More people need to know about this.
Did you use it? Does it work good?
It does work but you need to careful because this can grab big carbon deposits and break off after the 1 hour heat soak and inevitably clogs your catylatic converters
Man I been looking for this product
Interestingly, the instructions on the New Zealand version of the CRC Intake Valve Cleaner say to spray "continuously for 30 second intervals", rather than in short bursts. I was following the instructions on the can, and my car reported a P0132 (upstream oxygen sensor voltage high) during application. Also, the engine started pinging while driving following the heat soak, so I'd recommend going easy on the accelerator for the first 15 minutes.
same my engine died several times AFTER letting it heat soak, it was scary but I kept turning it off and on to clear the engine of the cleaner
I made this treatment yesterday on my hyundai i30 gdi 1.6 135 hp 77.000 km. After an 1 hour an 10 minutes i drove the car at 4.000 rpm for 20 minutes. When i hit 4000rpm in second gear a huge cloud of smoke was released and i heard some noises on the evac, i think that was carbon build parts. The product made his job.
How much improved the MPG in your hyundai? The same happened to me today on a Kia Soul 2013 1.6 , when I hit 4000 I hear a sound and saw a huge cloud of white smoke, the MPG has improved from 19 to 25 on the first day, awasome
@@fernandoruiz734 4000 rpm? So how many MPH did you get? For how many minutes? any police stop you?
@@fernandoruiz734 I did this job today, nothing happened, no smoke, nothing improved at all, and I have never done this before with a Kia soul 2012 and 66K miles on it. I use the PCV hose and one can, wait one hour and drive on the freeway or why. I follow all the instruction
@@irisbaez1972 Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv. Will this not damage the MAP and IAT sensors?
@@blackriderph4340 Yes, kia soul 20112 automatic has a MAP. doesn't have MAFS. My Elantra 2008 has MAFS.
I did the same job in my Elantra and nothing improve, no smoke at all. I use in both cars the PCV hose.
I just did this on my 2014 accord 2.4 and it was a one owner car but I had poor mpg. If you follow the instructions and I sprayed through the brake booster hose on the intake manifold. During the idle process I fogged up my whole block. Then when I drove it it was bad the fog was everywhere but it fixed my low mpg and idle issue.
not enough words can explain how satisfied i am with how well using that cleaner turned out so far
my car runs so much smoother it sounds different, like the car doesnt need nearly as much effort to accelerate, starting from a stop doesnt feel like a chore the car has to endure anymore, and it no longer hesitates on big pull accelerations, like its significantly better now, even the turbo sounds happier and i did this by simply going through the intake past the MAF and through the turbo and intercooler. Thank you for this video CRC im planning on continual use, my car feels amazing now
Thank you for giving GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner the opportunity to lend a helping hand. Stories like yours are what inspire us to develop the best solutions and innovations in automotive maintenance chemicals.
yep all the above for me! just used your product!! sprayed scrubbed directly on the valves..used brass brushes port by port and sucked it out....broke up very clean and it took me 6 hours but well worth it!
I did the same today. Disassemble the intake manifold and throttle body scraped off every intake valve and reassemble everything.
It really was dirty but I left it really clean. Then I added a second can following the instructions in the can. I saw a really big cloud of smoke coming out of the tailpipe. So I ended using 2 cans. Total work time about 5 hours! But I am really happy!!! No more fucking misfires !!! No more fucking rattles !!!
I saw this guy who had a bmw and he was doing all the above process but no adding the second can. So I said...I want to be really sure I will do the 2 methods!!! :D The results are like difference between night and day !!!
@@joecualquiera when you say "I added a second can following the instructions on the can" I wonder where did you sprayed the can into? If the MAS sensor is in intake, on the n54 335i
Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv
Informative video! We used this on my wife's 2018 Pathfinder, and heard a ticking sound, as some carbon broke off, and bounced around the drivetrain before blowing out the exhaust lol. So I plan on using a can of this every year for solid preventative maintenance
It didn’t blow out the exhaust. It got stuck in the catalytic converter
@@gefreiterkurzmaul it bounced around the drivetrain... HAHAHA. pretty sure your exhaust isn't connected to your drivetrain... fuck this is hilarious...
Used this in a 2016 Mustang EcoBoost with 25000 miles. Sprayed it in the intake duct just after the MAF? sensor. Seems to have worked very well. Off idle throttle has definitely improved. Throttle response seems smoother. Will update if I find and downsides if any happen. Engine did not throw a code and no smoke etc happened.
25K isn't very long for carbon to build up but you like prevented it from building up.
Def better to use it before you have huge amounts of carbon buildup
If used as regular maintenance, ie, 10k intervals, it's safe on turbo GDIs, but as a fix for heavily gunked valves, is there a risk that a chunk of carbon deposit will dislodge and mess up the hot side of the turbo - just like person getting a stroke from a dislodged blood clot? Also, some cars in addition to a MAF sensor by the air cleaner, also have a boost pressure sensor near the intercooler and a MAP/IAT sensor on the intake manifold. Is the product safe on those sensors? It's probably safe on pressure based sensors, but the IAT portion of the MAP might be affected negatively.
I'm wondering same things great questions wish someone would answer
A few things to note.
While a carbon piece might make its way into the turbo, the turbine blades will likely be fine with such a light piece of debris hitting them at such a low engine load (reving up at idle). The boost/MAP sensors will be fine since even if a film is deposited, that won't affect a pressure reading. It also hasn't ever affected my IAT readings before and after.
I have the same exact concerns about the MAP and IAT sensors. Did you already use the product and not have issues with the sensors?
@@blackriderph4340 I have done it on my '17 Mazda6 at 25k miles on the odo, which has all three MAF, IAT, and MAP sensors (no turbo), and it runs fine. I can't tell if it did anything and I haven't visually checked before and after on the valves. I haven't done it on my turbo CX-5 yet. It's still under factory warranty and don't want to risk.
@@dogwink i have the same setup in my mazda3. The map and iat sensors are in the manifold. I still cant decide if i will use this procedure. Ill buy the product anyway it can still be used in manual cleaning. Thanks for your feedback
Hello C R C ! Would it be more effective to heat soak for 2 hour vs 1 hour ? Wait your response . Thank you .
Should i change the oil just after the CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner is used?
Definitely change the oil and filter. Perhaps a couple of oil and filter changes.
Got a lean condition po171 and I have done so many parts swaps at just under 100k on a 1.4 luv cruize this has to be my savior
Can this be done at or under freezing temperatures?
Should the oil be changed after wards?
How many times should it be done to get that walnut blast clean effect?
Just used today, 4-15-22 on my 2006 Subaru sti w/140,000 miles. Ej257 engine w/ port injection. I/m readiness 5 complete. 2 are not. Catalyst and o2 sensor. Also idle fluctuating slightly between 500 and 750.
Did it work?
Does weather conditions during application matter? I assume it should be best applied outdoors. At cold temperatures it seems to not to travel with air but form paddles instead and drip out of the air duct.
Doesn’t it clog the catalytic converters?
The product does indeed work, but there is a problem. My oil analysis shows the hard particulates in the oil skyrocketed after performing this service. Not all of the carbon is consumed or exited the exhaust. How of this stuff remains in the catalytic converter. Fine soot and carbon mixes with the fuel and oil on the cylinder walls and is forced past the rings contaminating the oil. It took two oil changes within 100 miles to get the levels back to normal. A typical oil change leaves behind 10-20% of the contaminated oil. The typical 25 micron filter is not going to remove 2-15 micron size carbon particulates. If you perform this service change you oil afterwards and a second time.
So according to this video, you need 2 people to do the service? 1 person to spray the product and 1 person to keep the RPM at 2k while they spray it? Or can you do it all by yourself and rev it up to 2k after emptying the whole can?
2 people, it should be sprayed in bursts
I used a piece of plywood and two bricks.
Hockey stick worked great.
Put a piece of wood against the front of the drivers seat and onto the gas pedal. If you have a power seat moved the seat forward until the revs reach 2000-2200 rpms. Then go up and spray the product in short 3 second or so bursts until the whole can is empty. It may take 15-20 minutes to empty the can. Reattach any parts you removed and rev the enigine to no more than 3500 rpms 2-3 times. Turn the ignition off and let the car sit for a solid hour. By the way go for a little highway ride to heat the engine and catalytic converter up before doing this service. After it sits for an hour with the product applied go for a 15-20 minute drive with a few bursts of moderate hard acceleration.
I just used it on my Hyundai GDI, with 30K miles on it. And it worked great, luckily my car doesnt even have a MAF sensor, so I just sprayed it into the intake and I figure the engine is super small I only used half a bottle. waited an hour for the heat soak and drove it on the freeway, it had a little hesitation, then I saw that it expelled a huge puff of smoke, and after that the car ran like new. The Idle is back to what it was before and just seems a little more responsive when I step on the gas. I don't think there was too much build up since it was only 30K miles but I wanted to do it as a preventative measure. I'm hoping it will continue to clean like it says in the video and I will probably use the rest of the can after 1000 miles.
Thank you for sharing your experience with our GDI Intake Valve & Turbo cleaner. We hope you continue to see great results. In the future we do recommend to use the entire can of product in order to receive the full cleaning effect. Remember to spray in short 1 second burst to avoid any pooling which may be the reason for the puff of smoke.
Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv
3.5 Ecoboost F-150. Spraying into the air box goes directly into the air tube ducting then into the intercooler. My main concern is that the product will pool in the intercooler and stay there till a WOT event then flooded into the engine. Does it stay liquid form or does it evaporate shortly after sprayed??
Don’t listen to the idiots saying this is bad for your engine from causing damage to your cylinders. The formula dissolves the carbon in a safe manner that doesn’t cause scarring to metal surfaces. Also, CRC is a highly reputable company that performs with quality. They don’t create solutions that make matters worse. Moreover, after using about 5 applications of this specific product on my GDI engine, I can say that acceleration and idle have a noticeable improvement. I would recommend using it at every oil change to really help eliminate all carbon deposits on your intake valves. For only $10-$15 more per oil change, you can keep peace of mind your engine won’t struggle and die a premature death from unnecessary stress.
At CRC Industries, we measure ourselves by the quality and efficacy of our products and the satisfaction of our customers. Thank you for your comment and support.
And also using the product as directed. Some people will buy it, skip or modify some of the steps then get mad when it doesn't work the way it should. The most common being not heat soaking the engine first.
Instructions say to spray directly into throttle body with the intake hose disconnected... but is that while it's running? if so, that would trigger a check engine or rough idle since the
mass air flow is reading incorrectly the air going into the engine. Am i missing something?
Yes, you have to spray it AFTER the maf sensor for that exact reason 🙂
Would it effect my valve stem seals ?
What to use for Diesel engines?
How would I use this product on my 2024 KIA SELTOS SX with a 1.6L Turbo GDI Smartstream Engine? Pics or video would be very helpful as well😊 Thank you.
Do you have to change your oil after using this? If so how long after do you change the oil?
No, you do not have to change your car's oil after use. The product enters the combustion chamber and leaves thru the exhaust.
I just bought a can for my 07 Mitsubishi 380 with 300k on the clock but now I'm thinking there will be to much carbon built up & may glog my cat? I just bought the car and unsure what oil has been used & fuel quality.
Why are there no answers to the questions in the comment section of the video? I also have some of the same questions.
Where does the carbon go if it breaks a piece of carbon off?
I have heard if that were to happen it can destroy a turbo charger. Is this true?
This cleaner dissolves the carbon so no big chunks are going to your catalytic converter
@CRCAutoUS I am asking a very pointed question. Please respond with a detailed answer.
2017 VW Passat with the TSI (170hp) turbo motor: Where do I insert the spray nozzle?
I ask because the airflow meter is immediately in front of the turbocharger and against the firewall.
Please reach out to our technical support team and they can assist: techservice@crcind.com
those clean and shiny mechanics XD
2013 BMW ActiveHybrid 3, 150k. Possibly dumb question: On turbo cars, do you spray it _both_ into the intake manifold (to clean the valves) _and_ down the charge pipe (to clean the turbo vanes)?
So if I run it through my turbo, should I just not let it hit my MAF or should I also take off my MAP sensors? Mine has 2, one on the intake manifold and the other on my cold side charge pipe
Is this safe for a 3.5l Ecoboost? I've heard conflicting stories.
Yes this product is safe to use on this vehicle. The product contains a high level PEA which clings to the carbon, dissolving it rather than breaking it off into chunks that could cause damage. If you have further questions or concerns please feel free to contact our technical service department at Ph. 800.521.3168
@@CRCAutoUS what about the seals? ive heard of underboost problems on ecoboost engines after induction services?
@@PIP_SLUHT1900 Which seals are we talking about? Yes, problems could occur when using a solvent based cleaner. Our product is a detergent based cleaner.
The description of the product implies to me that the carbon deposit is dissolved (i.e. liquefied) so that it can be burned off safely without sending damaging solids into the combustion chamber or catalytic converters. Meanwhile, at minute 9:30 of this video it states "Additional carbon that's been loosened is safely removed by the heat and pressure of engine operation", which really sounds like the carbon deposit will be made to break free ("loosened") from the intake valves.
Maybe getting into semantics here, but I would buy into the idea that the loosened carbon deposit is "...safely removed [FROM THE INTAKE VALVES] by the heat and pressure...", but why am I not convinced that the carbon deposit that is loosened from the valves is safe for the combustion chambers or catalytic converters?
Seems to me that this product should only really be used starting on a brand new vehicle as a preventative measure against carbon buildup. Convince me otherwise.
Thank you for your comment. To clarify the CRC GDI Cleaner emulsifies the carbon so that chunks will not break away and cause damage. Also we do recommend this product be used from the beginning as a preventative service to reduce carbon buildup but we also have proven test results for vehicles with more than 100K miles. You can view our test results at crcgdi.com
@@CRCAutoUS Thanks for your reply. Does the emulsified material contain solid carbon particulate in suspension, or is the carbon completely liquefied, i.e. soft enough that it will not have any damaging abrasive effect on the engine internals?
@@steveyemenijian6070 In all of our testing there has been no scoring to any internal engine or exhaust system components.
It softens the carbon so it passes harmlessly out of the engine. In a turbo car, the last thing you want is a chunk of carbon getting into your turbine that's spinning at 100,000 RPM.
@@steveyemenijian6070 I did oil analysis and the presence of hard carbon particulates skyrocketed after the service in my car. It took 2 oil changes in the first 100 miles to get rid of it.
I have my intake manifold off as of right now , just to make sure , can I spray this on top of the valves , let it soak , scape it off and throb vacuum out the crap ?
So, just to be clear for turbocharged GDI engines, this product MUST be sprayed AFTER the turbo, correct? If I wanted to clean the turbo impellers as well, I would have to remove the turbo from the engine for treatment?
Thank you for your comment. No the product can be sprayed before the Turbo. For example from the air filter housing. This will allow the product to go thru the front of the turbo, intercooler, valves, and exhaust side of the turbo.
@@CRCAutoUS Ok, thank you!
@@CRCAutoUS so in a turbo engine, no need to spray it into the throtel body. spyaing it into the turbo is better, right ?
@@john123mike One way is not better than the other. It is just another option that may be more convenient in some vehicles since access to the throttle body is not always as easy in certain vehicles.
@@CRCAutoUS thanks for the fast reply
Nice animation but please show some proof with a borescope! Use the product as directed and show us w/ borescope before treatment and what it does after 1K miles. I keep hearing horror stories of engines rattling... would love to see you guys actually put out a real before and after video. As I love the concept but am a little hesitant to use product as directed. I am 100% sure it will work if I take off the intake manifold and spray it in directly and scrub the valves myself.... but you guys claim it will work by just spraying into air intake.... please do a more thorough video. Also, need some clarification as to whether or not to change oil after use of this product. I have Mazda CX 5 w/ 36K miles.... not sure if I should use it before or after oil change, also want to make sure that any deposits that come off won't scratch up the sides of the combustion chamber. I'm sure there are plenty of folks out there, like myself, who would love to see this product suceed and be all that it claims to be, we just need a little more proof with real life experiences and videos. Would be a good investement on the part of CRC to spend a little more time making such videos or sponsor some mechancis to make more through videos w/ before and after effects.
It does cleaning the walls pretty well, but the deposits on the valve is pretty hard to clean. With yours at 36K miles, I doubt it will do much. I use it every 5k. the walls are like new, but the valve still accumulate deposits even with a oil catch can. I did it before oil change.
Removing the intake manifold on the CX-5 is VERY easy. Its cleaning and scraping the deposits from the ports and valves that take up the majority of the time but well worth the work. After that, I bet you your skyactiv engine will run so smooth you don't even notice it running. This is from experience.
BigDog please kindly watch the whole video!
I have been using this for multiple vehicles and I always do it prior to my oil change. As the video says do it every 10k or at every oil change. I send my oil to Blackstone, and they could see the chemicals in the oil. I do it as a preventative so carbon DOESN'T build up. Once it builds up, it will take multiple applications...important to heat sink the product.
Just bought a can for my Forte 5. Getting ready to test this out soon. Great tips and info.
Don't hesitate to contact us if you need assistance.
@@CRCAutoUS IT WORKS GREAT...easy to use and my car is running quite a bit smoother now. CHEERS! I'll be keeping up on this maintenance over time.
@@ConstantXplorer Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv
@@blackriderph4340 Yes you can use it on cars that are equipped with those sensors as my car has them. You have to make sure to spray it past the throttle body neck...and NOT into the air intake housing. Make sure you remove the air filter housing and point place the tube right into the throttle body...close enough to the valve opening. This will by pass the sensor altogether.
@@blackriderph4340 Take a look at this simple instructional. My car run quite a bit smoother these days. I plan to do this after each oil change. I also make sure to go with full synthetic oil as well. Every once in a while a fuel cleaner is added....but only after about 3,000-5,000 miles. th-cam.com/video/EmjaM0sIUwU/w-d-xo.html
i live in Canada if i wait a hour my engine is fully cold so should i plug in the block heater XD
Do you recommend changing the oil after this service on a turbo GDI with blowby? Hyundais/Kias have some excessive blowby on their 1.6t and it is certain this product will get into the oil and likely all components cooled by oil....like turbo seals....
PEA is a dispersant and antioxidant compound. It doesn´t attach oil neither seals. Although you can have it in a curing agent of epoxy glue for less money, kkk.
Very nice, but this product isn't available in Italy (regardless many other CRC products are...)
Other than the form factor is this product the same as the crc guaranteed to pass emissions from a chemistry point of view, I am guessing if the crc guaranteed to pass emissions was injected through a source of vacuum in theory in should work the same way. Are this products identical or there are differences ? If there are differences what are they?
Vid instructions say to spray directly into the throttle body, then Knowledge Review states NEVER SPRAY directly into the throttle body?
Short bursts consist of how many seconds? If its 1 sec, this process can take up to 30mins to empty can
I have a 95 Honda Del sol and the MAP sensor sits on top of the Throttle body! Can I still use this? Just put the straw past it, deeper inside?
As long as you don’t spray it directly it will be fine. You still have this Del Sol?
@@rumpelstiltskin2454 Hell yeah I still have it! Burning up and down the Freeways at night having fun!! 🤣🤣
She's running pretty good...
You said deeper inside
I'm pretty sure a old del sol is not going to have direct Injection, so this product isn't for that engine.
I have a 2017 Honda Accord. The mass air flow sensor is easily accessible. Could I just remove the MAF sensor before using this cleaner?
Do I need to take off my m.a.p(not m.a.f) sensor before using in my 2012 Sonata 2.4l?
Hello! Did you remove the MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv. Will this not damage the MAP and IAT sensors?
@@blackriderph4340 on my particular car it’s not necessary to remove the map sensor, in some cases if the map sensor is downstream from where you will be spraying the cleaner you have to remove it but not for these sonatas. If your car has a mass airflow sensor downstream from where you’ll be spraying the cleaner you’ll have to remove it. I don’t know anything about your Mazda but if the map sensor is downstream be cautious and ask around a bit more. Sorry
I just wonder want happens to cylinder walls and piston rings as "carbon continues to be removed" days after treatment. They said at the begining that chunks can fall off if left untreated but couldnt chunks fall off with treatment? I get the necessity, but it seems like cganging auto trans fluid, for the first time, after 100,000 miles. Might hurt more than it helps
You can change trans fluid at any given time, not doing it at all is worst that doing it late.
What are the instructions for a 2017 Tesla model S?
Please contact our tech service department at techservice@crcind.com or 215.442.6290 with additional questions or for detailed instructions.
Hahahahaha!!! Very good. Perhaps dielectric grease?
Put it in the port where the charger plugs in
Top trolling comment of the year🤣🤣
Can I spray directly into the turbo on the intake side after removing the intake tube from the turbo?
Yes you can go through the turbo. Just remove boost sensor
It’s cold where I’m at, hanging around freezing temps. Can I still apply the product? Even with a warmed up engine
CRC, question;
On the can it says to use every 10000 miles or before oil change. Does that actually mean i should be changing my oil after using it or can its not necessarily?
I'm worried right now, cuz my car has a lot of miles and I haven't used it in a long time. I'm gonna take to the dealership and see what happens 🤔
We recommend changing the oil AFTER using the product.
@@CRCAutoUS I assume some it can sip into the oil chamber between cylinder and piston and degenerate the oil.
Is it necessary/recommended to do an oil change after using the CRC Intake Valve Cleaner? TQ.
Probably cause then the spray gonna be in the oil
On an ecoboost 1.0 with rough idle and 90K km (56k miles) would there be risk of the carbon breaking in chunks and destroying the turbo?
Please provide specific instruction for using this product with PEUGEOT 308 T9 2015 1.6THP (110KW). Where do I spray and do I need to remove MAF sensor?
Please contact techservice @ crcind.com and they will assist. Thanks.
I finished the treatment last night, I did not drive it one hour later, I drove it this morning, does it affect the result?
Hello CRC.
So I understand that you should drive the car at highway speeds after an hour of heatsoak.
What if the car isn't drivable at the time?
Or is it possible to not have to drive the car after the heatsoak?
I’ve used this product and I couldn’t drive at highway speeds either. I just drove around the block 10 times at reasonable high revs. I could see the “smoke” coming out the exhaust which would be the removed carbon. My engine has now returned to normal, smooth idle, no hesitation at take off.
Oh nice. My car hasn't turned on since. And when I mean not drivable, I mean, the car has a chance of dying on itself pretty often and it's a manual...i haven't practiced enough.
Wouldn't this be better if I found a vaccuum house that leads to the intake for this??? I have a 2017 chevy cruze.
demands where at, its better to do it at the TP since it goes straight into the intake and combustion chambers; evenly throughout. The vacuum line option depending where it's located might only deliver a certain amount to a cylinder.
A question CRC, in a Ford Fiesta ST with EcoBoost 1.6L turbo engine, where is the recommended point to inject the cleaner? From the airbox trough compressor/ intercooler or thorugh the cold side hose after the intercooler and before throttle body? Thanks
Did you ever end up doing this? Have a focus st with 100k I just bought and the plugs were pretty bad so I'm thinking of doing this too...might do it the real way and take the manifold off and use gas and a brush with the valves closed
When using this product what happens to the carbon that is on the valves? Doesn't it get into the cylinder and onto the pistons??? That can't be good right?
Thank you for your comment. The product contains a high level of PEA which attaches to the carbon and slowly dissolves it so chunks of carbon will not break off and cause any damage.
I have a 2013 ford fusion eco boost 2.0 liter turbo charged. What vacuum hose can I spray the cleaner into I have no idea what one to use? I can’t access the throttle body it’s down by the radiator in front of the car almost under it.
maan!! R U telling me i cant use this on my 2010 hyundai iload turbo diesel?
ive been researching for days on pick up can and found out the best going around is flashlube.
i was researching just now and stumbled over this treatment. i was so excited i couldnt wait until the video ended so i can race to the store that sells it until you mentioned not to apply this product on diesel type motors. dont you have a product for us diesel users? What damage will it do if i used it? or ,aybe perhaps just spray a little amount? what about if i purchased low potent type in the market? please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for your comment. Our product chemistry is formulated for gasoline specifically. Diesel engines form carbon on other areas not too much on intake valves when compared to GDI so, we recommend a fuel additive for diesel engines with carbon build up. CRC 1-Tank Diesel www.crcindustries.com/products/diesel-1-tank-power-renew-174-15-fl-oz-05816.html
Can you use it in the winter it's about 20 degrees Fahrenheit where I live
I’m very curious to try this on my 2017 VOLVO XC60 T6 R design with the 2.0 four cylinder engine that has both a supercharger and turbocharger. Do you have a video showing those results? I understand these engines have no oil dipstick and carbon build up on the valves is horrendous. Thank you
We don't have a video for this but please feel free to contact our tech services at techservice@crcind.com who can guide you thru the process.
Hello ! I have 2018 Honda Accord Sport 1.5 turbo Vtec 29000 miles . It’s already has bad fuel consumption , and poor performance . Honda dealer said that it’s carbon buildup and price for cleaning is 290$ . I watched this video and decided to try it first . Were should i spray this to clean everything? Thank you !
Good morning Roman!
We recommend spraying in the product from the air filter housing or as close to the throttle body as possible. All of our testing on turbo and non-turbo engines was conducted from the air filter housing. Visit www.crcindustries.com/gdi to see all of our testing data. If there are further questions please contact technical service 1.800.521.3168 M-F 8-5EST or techservice@crcind.com
CRC Industries Thank you !
Hi, according to video, for turbo engine spray into charge pipe or vacuum port, will that clean the turbo as well? Does throttle body works?
Yes, We recommend spraying in from the air filter housing or as close to the throttle body as possible.
@@CRCAutoUSIf I spray directly at throttle body, turbo will not be cleaned correct? As turbo is before the throttle body. To clean both I have to locate the spot after my maf sensor?
Is there a recommendation on,
Before or after oil change?
The instruction video says 1,000 miles between applications on extreme. Is there a maintenance schedule?
Thank you for your comment. We recommend performing the service first and then changing oil and filter. After that its every 10,000 miles or every oil change for maintenance. If your vehicle has high miles or you know it has heavy build up you can do another service after 1,000 miles. Then move onto the general maintenance schedule.
I just changed my oil and filter, then had a check engine light. Is it necessary to change the oil after performing this service?
Thank you for your comment. It is not necessary but it is recommended.
Questions. 2008 Mini Cooper S (Turbo) If I apply after MAF sensor just prior to turbo intake, will CRC go on to clean the intake valves? OR, should I do a second treatment applied after the turbo closer to the intake? I'm trying to achieve maximum efficiency. Are we sure the deposits that become dislodged wont become stuck in the catalytic converter? How can we tell? Can CRC be added directly to the crank case prior to oil change?
Hell no, don't put in crank case. If you're asking a question like that better let a mechanic work on your car. CRC ONLY goes in your air intake!
Does v6 engines need 2 cans since mine has 2 filters with 2 intakes?
Hello, i checked your product and i cannot locate any sellers in Greece. Also I have a question, can i use the CRC GDI Valve Cleaner 500ml in Turbo cars like audi A3 2.0TFSI
Thank you for watching, yes this product is safe and has been proven very effective at cleaning turbos. Please contact info@crcind.com for information on where it can be purchased.
How the engine need to be on ? While spraying ? Bc own I take off my cold air intake to spray down the turbo it makes the car sound weird
How soon should I change my oil after treatment?
We recommend changing the oil after using the product and during the 1 hour heat soak or after the test drive.
Correct me if I'm wrong...but. if you're running a 2.7 or 3.5 Ford ecoboost, could you not just disconnect the recirculation pipe from the "bov" and spray into that while it's running?
Nvm I realize now that the recirculation tube only connects to the drivers side intake turbo charge tube.
You could do this, but you are spending more time to get the product in the system. The charge pipes usually lead right in to the throttle body as well if you want to spray after the clean side of the turbos. These methods could throw a code causing the check engine light. Spraying in from the air filter housing on turbo charged vehicles is fine, the product will make it to the intake valves. For more information reach out to our Technical Service Team 1.800.521.3168 or techservice@crcind.com M-F 8-5 EST.
1). I used your produce in a Solstice GXP, but some are saying it could be dangerous as it could loosen chunks of carbon that could fall into the cylinder, and or damage the turbo wheel, and/or clog the cat. Could this happen if there's heavy build up? 2). Does the cleaner also help clean the catalytic converter or do you need another chemical for that?
Hi there. Thanks for your question. Please contact our technical services at techservice@crcind.com , who will provide knowledge advice on using this product
I called and they said it just slowly removes layers so there shouldn't be any danger of chunks coming off.
you do this while the engine is running?
@CRC Industries,
For a Hyundai Genesis g80 2016 3.8L v6 Gasoline GDI engine, where do you recommend to spray the product exactly?
You can spray in from the air filter housing or as close to the throttle body as possible. Contact technical service at crcindustries.com or 1-800-521-3168 M-F 8am-5pm ET
I have an 2011 MKS 3.5 Ecoboost, since this car has 3 maf sensors, where do i have to spray the product? Thank you for your help. or im wrong about the maf and are map? Could you pin point where i have to spray please.
Thank you for your comment. The product will not harm MAP’s. The Ecoboost’ s may use 1 MAF and 2 MAP’s or 3 MAP’s and no MAF.
You can spray the product from the air filter housing, thru the MAF if equipped. or thru the throttle body.
@@joaragon Why do you say this isn't needed on the Ford GDI system? Looks like it's still configured the same way.
@@joaragonI'm not exactly convinced of this. Granted I can't see exactly what I've got going on, I can only just barely see the fuel rail, but I've got a 2010, same car and the thing that brought me here to this video is because it started shuddering as I exited the e-way, then after a few start ups it's back to normal. Check engine light told me cylinder 2 misfired and low fuel rail pressure, pointing my mind in the direction of fuel injector stuck open. Upon pricing one out, all I found is the high pressure fuel injector for $200 each... nowhere in that listing did they mention another lower pressure fuel injector, and I highly doubt this car uses a high-pressure injector on both sides of the valve.
@@joaragon I'm not sure what you mean, but I don't see any evidence of port injectors on my car.
@@joaragon Only on gen 2 ecoboosts, which I believe came out in '17 models.
Asking for advice again. I tried two times already but no good result on my car, 2011 VW Tiguan.
I sprayed thru the intake air hose right after MAF sensor. But I feel maybe better result if I find the brake booster vacuum hose. The vacuum line from vacuum pump has three ways out; one to brake booster, second one to a metal tube, third one leading to some kind of black box near throttle body. Could you tell me which one I need to inject this CRC spray?
Please reach out to our technical services techservice@crcind.com
What about if bits of carbon break off and end up in your cylinder, or in your cat?
I have a Hyundai Tucson with GDI 1.6 turbo that is burning oil and completely empty by 1,000 miles. No smoke or visible leaks (oil spots on driveway etc) but definitely signs of carbon build-up. It's been like this for about a year now and has 87k miles on it. My question is about how long can a car go with build-up before internal parts are damaged?
Hi there. It would be best to contact your dealership to assist in troubleshooting issues and questions
Do I need to use your product before I do my oil change or it can be anytime ?
Jose Gonzalez anytime
Alex Trainor I agree, you can do this anytime and do it regularly every 10,000 miles.
I always do fuel system cleanings just before an oil change, just to be on the safe side.
Do the treatment right before your oil change so you can drive the required miles then change your oil.
Hey Jose its Jose, que pasa quelabasa
How can you run the engine with the charge pipes disconnected? Makes no sense, your saying spray while it's on. How would the car turn on? Won't it throw a code?
Hi, I have a port injected engine so I don't need valve cleaning but I want to clean the piston heads & rings. Is it safe to spray the product directly into cylinders thought spark plug holes and soak the pistons? If yes, how long can I keep the product in the cylinder? It is a cast iron Mercedes M111 engine. I don't want to spray it in to the intake because the MAF and Supercharger is on the way. Thanks in advance.
While this product will work great on a running engine, we just don’t have the testing data to say it is ok to apply it this way. We recommend that you contact our techservice @crcind.com for alternative application methods on a running engine.
@@CRCAutoUS Thank you. I will contact them.
Is this safe to be sprayed directly through an electronic throttle body?
102k+ miles on a focus and never done any induction cleaning. Guess I should get on that 🤣😂
Me too, I haven't done it in a long time on mine, gonna take it to the dealer cuz I'm worried about doing it myself 👍
What is the significance of not revving beyond 3500rpm?
Too much of the liquid would taken in before it can settle on the intake valves.
CRC, my focus St has MAF sensor near the intake and additional sensors in the manifold. If I used CRC cleaner after MAF, will it affect the other sensors inside the manifold?
My car has 120km without any carbon cleaning, what do you suggest?
Is 1 crc can enough or more ?
Thank you for you comment. I believe the sensors you are referring to are the MAP sensors. This product will not harm passing over the MAP sensor, but will harm the MAF sensors. If you assistance verifying please contact our tech service department at techservice@crcind.com or 215.442.6290.
@@mixedup859 hello! Did you try the product? Did it have issues with the MAP and IAT sensors in your manifold?
@@blackriderph4340 Hello, i tried the product twice and didn't have any issue with sensors, carbon was not removed either. I'd recommend opening the manifold at running temperature and remove gunk by piece of cloth. It is not 100% result but I wouldn't use any chemicals again .
@@mixedup859 wow thank you for the feedback! Im surprised it didn’t clean the carbon I really thought it does.
So, I did this with my GDI engine over the weekend. Car is a genesis 5.0 which has a GDI 429 HP V8 engine with 70k miles. The problem I had was that for the life of me I couldn't get my car to idle at 2k RPM's, it's like the computer wouldn't let it. I could get the car to idle at 2k for a second but than the car just dropped to the 500 idle rpm.(no treatment yet)so I feathered it around 2k while someone else sprayed it. Engine seems smoother and acceleration is a bit better. I also did an oil change and put a k&n air filter. I was getting 6 second 0-60 times when I should be in the low 5's range. Now I'm getting in the 5.5 range still not where it should be. Dash command app says my HP went from 375 to 401(granted dash command is calculated and not actual HP, it still gives a rough idea of the engine status) I am going to buy a camera to look at my valves and wanted to do this treatment again. (new plugs as well)Do you think it is safe to do this again in a few hundred miles or should I wait till my next oil change?
Thank you for your comment and sharing your results so far. We recommend at least 1,000 miles before a second treatment.
Hello! Does your car have MAP and Intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold? Im hearing stories that this product will damage these sensors thats why im still hesitant to use it in my mazda 3 skyactiv. Will this not damage the MAP and IAT sensors?
@@blackriderph4340 I’m not really sure. I drove this car for another 40k miles and it ran great till someone hit me and totaled it. Now I drive a twin turbo Infiniti, this has a temp sensor in the intake manifold and the maf sensor in the filter. I’ve been thinking about doing this but not sure yet. Would have to do the cleaning after the maf sensors for sure. Basically directly in the turbo intakes.
@@mikedavin671 thank you for the fast reply! My one remaining concern will be if the emulsified carbon bits might scratch and scour the cylinder walls. Probably not because yours drove fine.
Wa it for at least 1000 miles before doing a second treatment. The product is still working a little bit for a few hundred miles after treatment.
The instructions specify to spray downstream of the MAF sensor,but my engine uses a MAP sensor. Is this product safe to use with a MAP sensor?
Thank you for your comment. This product will not harm a MAP sensor.
@@CRCAutoUS thanks!
Thanks for the clarification :) hope this works on my Focus
Thanks for the question my Ford F-150 also uses a map sensor
@@elsobnumberone3306 did it not damage the Map sensor?
Hi, I cant find CRC carbon deposit removal in Singapore and also Amazon seller does not ship to Singapore. Anyway to get it?
Lazada has
Does CRC make a similar product for Diesel?
Thank you for your comment. Our product chemistry is formulated for gasoline specifically. Diesel engines form carbon on other areas not too much on intake valves when compared to GDI so, we recommend a fuel additive for diesel engines with carbon build up. CRC 1-Tank Diesel www.crcindustries.com/products/diesel-1-tank-power-renew-174-15-fl-oz-05816.html
Not available in Australia:'(
Where specifically should I spray into a BMW N54 TWIN TURBO ENGINE? 2008.
Should I perform the cleaning only before an oil change? or is it ok to do right after fresh oil?
The oil change is simply a convenient frequency indicator; nothing to do with the oil itself.
@ CRC Industries I have a 2007 bmw n54 just to clarify can I spray your product in the air intake pipe after the air filter? Thanks for the help
Thank you for your comment. Yes you can apply the product in that way.
Have you tried cleaning your n54? How did it work?
Did it work?