How To REMOVE CARBON Build Up From DIRECT INJECTION Engines For $12
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2024
- Removing carbon build up from your direct injection gasoline engine is easier than you might think! I'd always heard that you have to soda or walnut shell blast the valves after removing the intake from the engine, then go through a painstaking cleanup to remove the abrasive. I was Googling methods to remove carbon build up again this morning and came across this CRC product that works way better than I ever expected. Since we swapped the engine on the $1,500 Hyundai Veloster it's been great but there is a small shudder at idle that I couldn't fix even after replacing the plugs and swapping coils, this cleared it right up. Now it's time to do my Volt!
CRC 05319 GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner: amzn.to/2ly0lOY
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#DirectInjection #GDI #CarbonBuildUp - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Anyone performing this intake valve cleaning needs to change the their oil immediately afterwards. This process will dump a huge amount of hard abrasive carbon into your oil. No, all of won't be blow out out the exhaust. The unburned fuel, soot and carbon will be washed past your pistons rings. How do I know. I did an oil analysis before and after. Hard Particulate matter skyrocketed and I had to change the oil twice to get levels back to normal.
I came here to say this!
Anything else worth replacing at the same time as doing the GDI cleaner? PCV valve? Using a rag to hand wipe the throttle body with a little cleaner?
Damn you had to change the oil twice? That's crazy.
The fine carbon abrasives will wear out the timing chain link pins causing slack play.
@@alwayslearningthankyou2708 Also wear out rod bearings then shake the motor apart (or if you got the lemon-sensor from the recall I guess just wait 20k more miles and get a whole new engine from Hyundai lol)
That loud clack noise sounded like hydraulic lock.
Problem with these head clean aerosol systems is that if you put in too much fluid at one time, or the additive pools on the intake manifold, the fluid could hydraulic lock the engine.
Better to do the following -
Never add the fluid to an idling or stationary engine.
Engine at around 2500rpm
Spray the additive in short spurts with at least 30 seconds between spurts,
Add the fluid at the throttle body to ensure better atomisation and even distribution (minimise chance of pooling).
After half a can, wait a few minutes before resuming the remainder of the fluid.
Leave the engine at the same revs for at least 3 minutes
Slow to idle and leave idling for 3 minutes.
You can now switch off the engine to allow the hoses at the throttle body to be reassembeled
Restart the engine and slowly increase revs to 2500rpm for one minute. .
Next, go on the 20 minute road run. Do not exceed 2500rpm.
Why isn’t everyone acknowledging Gabe’s perfect 180??? That was close to perfect!
Austin Holbrook:🍻😉👍🏼
Facts
Jacob's comments at the end were funny and spot on...got a good chuckle at his dry delivery.
lol...your face when you said "We just killed a rod "
My car did the same thing when I started going after the heat soak for the first 500 feet or so. The car ran rough, the check engine light came on, a ton of smoke blew out the exhaust... and the engine now runs better than ever.
@@vashthestampede11 My Santa Fe did this and actually went into limp mode. I had to get to an auto parts store that had a scanner tool so I could reset the check engine light and it ran fine after that but scary as hell at first.
@@robertnicholson3734 never had to reset anything. It drove really really rough for about 1/4 mile, the check engine light came on, farted out a huge cloud of dust, the engine light went away, and it's been running great ever since.
I also decided to put in an oil catch can, and after 1000 miles, it's already caught about 2-3 tablespoons of oil. Might be worth looking into. I'd be happy to show you what I did.
@@robertnicholson3734 cars ecu will reset after the chemical is gone .No need to panic .
That engine clattered hard 🤣 that's why you use it in bursts
"is that Gabe?" *immediate hoon*. That was top tier.
lost it! lol
Seth Poe:😎🍻
That does make a big difference. I have my State's Emission Tested a month after I used this same product on my 02 Ford Ranger (176,000 miles). My friend John performed the PA. Emissions Testing, afterwards he commented about not believing the great results he got for such an old truck. Yeah, as you spray that product in you'll just have to manually adjust by hand the throttle RPMs, because the engine wants to shutdown if you don't. The oil will be dirty, but before the oil change try Seafoam in the oil crankcase (1 ounce per quart capacity). Drive 50 miles, then pull it in for an oil change. The Engine will purrs!
Just did the "non-pro" instructions on a Mazda CX-5 2013 with 107K. I had suffered thru gas smell in AC vents and saw that carbon deposits could be a possible cause. After the one hour soak, fired it up and made run to where I could let it rip. No smoke but went through a series of backfire farts. It blew that carbon out and ran perfect for my 90 mph joyride. So far gas smell gone too.
Gas smell might be a spark plug that's not tightened up enough.
I had that issue when I changed my plugs without a torque wrench 😂
Thanks Jr! I followed all your instructions and blew all the carbon out of my 2013 Veloster, really made a huge difference. My car has no more dead spots, and revs high effortlessly.
I have the same car and I am about to do a carbon clean
did you survive@@pizzawhiskey9747
@@pizzawhiskey9747i hope y'all did it slow and easy.
If you broke off too much at one time, a big chunk of carbon can really fuck up your engine...
Right, thanks for the tip JR! Now I can go and fix my Hyundai. Also, Gabe's handbrake turn was on point; that just made my year! X-D
michelinman 8592: 😉🍻
i had to run that type twice in a v6 because the guy i know said he wanted to try it while using it through the port on the intake manifold. it seems like it did the trick because most of the time there is some carbon build up in the base of the intake manifold as well. it seems like it loved it to be honest to get all the crud out of the air passages thats my impression
THIS WORKS! I do this every other oil change or at 10,000 miles and I have NO CARBON BUILDUP.
How can you verify there is no carbon buildup ?
Did you physically view the valves to verify?
@@jeffersonjcoatjust pop the manifold off wym
Great video again!
I’ve a Kia GT with a T GDI engine and I’m inspired to treat my car to the cleaner now .
How'd it work?
did ya do it?
Would be nice to see a before and after scope or dyno pull - some way to quantitatively measure the difference.
You saved me a few minutes of typing, that would have been some REAL evidence
Best they can do is vaguely following bottle instructions 🙏
you typed something anyway so you did not save anything @@zxtenn
Yes i thought the same as u mention here. This video worthless as nothing learned if is for real on getting rid of carbon.
U connected to brake vacuum line. Why not have more light so could see better where line is - where starts and where line ends. Very poor overall.
Now clean the throttle body (butterfly valve). Huge difference maker. 👍🏻
I put FR3 friction reducer in at my oil change. It reduced that clattering sound alot. The engine runs smooth too. $18.00 a bottle. I have the 2.0 turbo in my Escape. Shawn.
Gonna grab some of this at next oil change, thanks!
LiquiMoly is the only brand I trust.
I've seen tests and results with own eyes, idk about the other crap but some BMWs and MBs need that shit in there. Just make sure to get genuine stuff.
That noise was hydrolock because the way the intake sits lower than the valves and the cleaner pools in the bottom. If you could actually see the carbon coming out of the exhaust it would instantly plug the catalytic converter.
Cats are cheap. Wouldn't it be better if the exhaust was removed from the cats back before using this?
Cats are cheap compared to an engine rebuild, but cats are definitely NOT CHEAP. @@jasonkoo5814
map/speed density controlled engines deal better with vacuum leaks as the computer can still see the change in air pressure
of course a big enough one will def cause issues.
Good tips. I have 2011 VW Tiguan and am planning to try this CRC. Question; hose from vacuum pump splits into two ways. One to motor(maybe intake manifold) and the other to Brake booster. Which one do I need to disconnect and spray this into? Planning this weekend. Can you replay please?
Would this improve the performance of a 5.7 Hemi? Can I use this product?
I wish you showed directly which line you pulled out, I couldn’t see which one to see where to put the spray in
Good work man. I also enjoy your videos!
I waited until I had a noticeable miss at idle on my direct injected vehicle, which was about 170k miles. I was surprised I didn't have an issue earlier, but I run top tier gasoline, which I think helps some. I pulled my intake manifold and spent a few days soaking and cleaning the valves with a variety of methods until I was happy. A LOT of carbon build-up came off the valves. Before re-installing the intake, I installed new OEM fuel injectors and seals. Once put back together, my car idled like new again (and still does).
I used the Lucas branded GDI and definitely had the same result. Oil usage has gotten to 1qt/500 miles with hesitation and pinging. I’ve seen some benefit but want to do it again before my next oil change.
What happens on these with the carbon cleaner is that when spraying into the manifold or a vacuum line, some of the cleaner tends to pool up in the intake manifold runners that aren't open (has variable intake runners, short and long for air velocity changes). When you rev it, the manifold opens the other set of runners and chugs the rest of the cleaner at once, can be bad if it's a lot of cleaner, but that's the smoke you saw. Kinda scary at first but hey, it works well.
Just tried this with my 2012 kia 1.6 Gamma GDI stick shift and it definitely started sounding better and feeling better. It also looks like my mpgs are a lot better. I only used half a can because I was being overly cautious and was using an extendable mop handle to keep the car around 2k rpms
The car also felt like it was gonna stall at low RPMs in first while starting from a stop. Now I don't have that problem.
The best way to prevent the build up on intake valves is a EGR delete. Put an small airfilter on the EGR pipe and the correct pulse value compactor on the EGR harness which prevents any CL engine codes. Also a oil catch can
*PCV* All those oil vapors routed back into the intake manifold lead to carbon buildup. Could route them down toward the road as cars did before emissions laws.
Additionally don't buy a direct injection overpriced car.
all new cars from now on will have GDI but they call it differentley for each brand so if you wanna stay away from GDI you have to stay away from cars in like 10-15 years.@@davidanderson8469
@@davidanderson8469 Best answer. I love that Mazda6 and I want to get one, but it's GDI, GDI means *od *amned Idiots, in my book, so I can't have that Mazda6.
*guy who just bought a 2017 veloster turbo with 55k miles ha yeah i wont either
@@davidanderson8469
My 2018 wrx has been having a bad idle and drive. I tried this and it works. My car was smoking bad from the exhaust. Car is now smooth.
i did this same procedure with seafoam on my old jetta just for fun . it was so much smoke i couldnt believe it . the engine ran way smoother after that too .
What engine was it? And what’s seafoam? I hear about it but don’t know what it is
2:18 Excellent product placement
Would it work on a 96 Honda accord? I might do to my daughters car
Keep up the great work thanks for the content
I appreciate your video. I have this issue with my 2013 Audi A7 and still gun shy about running this product or any other solvent cleaner through the supercharged engine. Do u or anyone an opinion on that?
Thanks for actually posting the good and the bad well what you thought was bad
Have rough idling runs a lil rough even on the highway. Just started to do that two days ago had it scanned at auto zone and said needed EGR valve replacement. This mechanic said it might just need a simple cleaning but it’d might need carbon cleaning at the ports. Will have it replaced but was wondering if needs a engine ports cleaned as well. This other mechanic said the EGR valve keeps it from getting carbon in there. No need to clean engine? 2015 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 L engine I think it’s GDI engine
dont think that would of worked on mine, just took the intake off the 00 exploder started squirt coolant out the back today. i had to scrape the carbon out of all the ports im pretty sure we filled the cup lots of hard chunks, 1st time i ever did upper an lower intake , gotta put back together tomor fingers crossed lol, im whipped now most the scrapage was done that or seafoam may doit good when im done, how dow you feel about seafoam?
Marvel Mystery Oil leaves some smoke but does the same thing plus it gives off a nice minty fragrance
11:08 was absolutely hilarious. That Veloster is soooooooo fast!!
Will this work on my 2018 Tucson gdi 1.6 turbo engine?
I tried that stuff on my GDI mini cooper with the turbo,
80,000 miles and it started to run like a new car. the turbo looked awesome as well.
Finally a Mini Cooper comment? Any other tips I just got mine it has 35k miles on it but just want it to run smooth with barely any worries.
Don’t you have to use he brake booster line closer to the intake because the Hyundai has a check valve in the line?
How did you remove the vacuum inlet ? Mine is stuck even if I remove what holds the tube to the brake booster pipe
I clean my accents motor this way as well as it is GDI. I've always had my wife rev the engine but I spray the whole can in though the air intake is that the best way for most effective treatment. I usually get really get smoke show and car runs great I'm at 94k
I have a 2018 sonata with 93,000km on it and was thinking of doing this soon. It's the 2.4l naturally aspirated 4 cylinder. Do you think it's a good idea?
There's a lot of imaginations running wild in this video in place of an endoscope.
Hey how did she perform after your used this product? Like a week or 2 later?
Would this work if you went in through the air cleaner intake?
I used this CRC on my 2011 Buick Regal twice and got more smoke the second time. She still kinda hesitates when throttling up. I just sprayed it in the air intake (post the maf of course). Would spraying it in the vacuum line produce better results?
I put an oil catch can on my car's PCV hose. I haven't seen much oil but the car works well with it installed. So it seems to be a good investment... it give peace of mind.
I might try that on my ‘06 Volvo. We don’t have CNC in the UK but we do have Wynnes?
Started Cracking up when I saw all that smoke hit your Buddy! LOL!
Did you spray into the breather hose going to the intake side of the turbo? Or did you spray into the PVC hose going into the engine intake?
He literally said brake booster line
I have a 2016, just wondering if ur veloster is still running or if it burned out of oil and got the knock
I ran this stuff in my 2014 VW cc 2.0t notorious for carbon buildup. With a high flow CAT I smoked out about half a mile covering 2 lanes. It was awesome. Whenever the stock exhaust was installed it never smoked
Hopefully this works for me either that or a throttle body clean out.
Thanks for the demo and reminder on necessary GDI maintenance. Bought my first one last year in my wife's 2018 Mazda 6. Have awhile before it builds up though. She's only closing on 25,000 miles.
If I remember correct, Mazda actually doesn't have issues with carbon buildup. Something to do with how the PCV is designed.
@@ddg2256 they run the engines hotter than most manufacturers, and the carbon has a hard time sticking to the valves at higher temps
So you guys wouldn't recommend intake cleaner or catch can on a new mazda??
What is the adapter they make, almost looks like a cone, instead of using a paper(or nothing) towel when spraying into intake lines?
Yep , those are noisy engines but very dependable and you can rap them out a bit and still get 30+ mpg
These cans of cleaner were sprayed in my GDI vehicle 2 cans in total at 580000 miles .. AT 65,000mile the manifold was removed 1/8 inch sludge was in the manifold but it was soft . Cleaned out by hand .
Would this be safe to do with the turbo version of this car? Sorry don’t know a lot about cars
Gabe is a stunt driver!....I watched him power turn twice!
Kevin Kyser: 😉🍻
The brake vacuum is hard to get to, can I use the PCV hose?
Would you recommend this over a catch can for a 2020 mazda 6,
I used to own a 1.6L 2012 Accent GDI and when I used that additive, I learned that you need to be easy once the additive is empty, don't rev it up or you will get that knocking sound, so what I did after the first time is let it to heat soak for 10 mins then start it again and let it idle for 5 mins and then take it for a spin and go very gentle otherwise the knock may come back due to the combustion chamber full of an oily substance that can cause that sound and if you are very rough increases the chances of killing the engine in the long run and around 10-15 mins of driving the product will be gone and the knocking chances are reduced, FYI, when I heard that sound, I thought that I killed the engine. Also For those who don't know in all these additives when you see white smoke is not that you are burning carbon is the actual additive mixture that makes that white smoke, once that is burned along the carbon will disappear. I have used this one seafoam as well in very clean engines and white smoke will always show up, even with intake +Carb cleaner, is like if you were burning those barbeque starting fluid, smells bad and white smoke all over. If you use that additive at home and you own a Hyundai, be patient otherwise you will pickup another engine soon. Just my opinion.
cool, i have a kia forte 2.0 GDI so i'm gonna do this.
How’d it go
Could you tell if I can do same process in a 2007 Honda civic hybrid, it is possible?
I have a 2014 Optima Turbo. I've sprayed the CRC spray through the air intake after removing the clamp holding the air filter housing. Sprayed the product as directed. Heard a 'guggling' sound after some time. Followed all instructions as directed on the can again. Nothing noticeable after starting the car after the 1 hour wait. Took it for the 10m highway ride, had some rough handling like car stalling 2 or 3 times. No real change in the car handling, no fumes or whatsoever after that. No significant change in idling behavior or change in MPG. Has anyone done this with his Optima? Feedback much appreciated.
Would this work on a Turbo car or is it bad for the turbo?
If I were to use this on my 2000 Honda Accord V6 would it potentially solve the idle/stall problems? I recently replace the idle air control valve which was nice for a second but then went again. I’m hoping this might clear things up for it.
Thank you
It definitely could. When there isn’t as much air intake due to the carbon deposit build on the intake valves, that can be a cause to idle/stall issues. Also, cleaning the MAPS or MAFS of your vehicle can help as well possibly 🌞
You know what your videos keep popping up on my recommendation list so I might as well subscribe.
U won't regret it
G H: Glad to have you with us!😎🍻
It's a bit of everything, it's great!
same
@@Gabe-ABNCW3 gabe = jrgo wingman and certified GOAT.
Hey Guys ... there used to be a product called GM Top Engine Cleaner that could only be purchased at the dealer ... I had a '76 Caddilac Eldorado that I purchased from original owner back in the early 90's ... the stuff came in a 16oz can and directions were simple ... warm up engine first then slowly pour half the can in while engine is revved to about 1500 rpm then dump the rest in till engine stalls ... turn off the ignition and let the car sit for 30 minutes to an hour tops ... that car had a four bbl Rochester with massive secondaries so when I opened them up and dumped in the last half can it flooded it and stalled ... Perfect ! we took a half hour break ... after puting the air cleaner cover back on we fired it up ... big black cloud of smoke poured from the pipes as we revved it to about 2500rpm for 15 minutes ... a short run down the hiway cleaned out the rest ... when I replaced the plugs later we could see the clean tops of the pistons ... even the worn out plugs were spotless ... 5000 lb. car with 500 Cu. In. engine, 425 HP with loads of midrange torque ... could comfortably seat eight people (no tunnel, FWD) even though there were only six seatbelts ... LOL ... my friend called our throw together band which was mostly covering ZZTop and AC/DC "large Car" after it because it was a really big car ... 18' 6" long ... makes me laugh at all the fun we had ...
did work on my wife's kia soul , why engineers didn't think of that need "oil catch can" i used cleaner and incresed gas mileage was awesome, still have more to do again in 10k miles. to keep clean.
I have a 2020 Tucson, how do I know where is that vacuum line ?
Seafoam spray does a very well job too.
On average, how many days a week are you filming or editing videos?
You did not blow anything out, the smoke is simply the stuff you put in being burned by the engine. The knock also sounded more like pre-ignition, from that stuff being in the cilinders.
I thinking you should have done a bore scope before hand for before and after results?...Maybe you didn't need to do this at all, Have you thought about what you are breaking off and throwing into your cylinder walls? I'm wondering if you have turbo and if particals might damage the heated turbo exchange
Could you show us how to change plugs on 4.6l in a crown vic? I've always worked on my cars, and a plug change should be no biggie. But I've heard horror stories and like to know how to do it right
Patiently waiting on you to get your hands on a 2jz in the Lexus is300 or like mine, gs300😎
How long do you have to drive around before Jake appears? Then how long do you have to drive around for him to disappear?
I get that same noise during the end of the shooting process.like knocking .. .duno wat it is . I turnnit off if i hear it continue. Do you have a clue?what do u mean by rod.
I’m about to do this to my 2018 Hyundai, hope it works
I do that on 2007 solstice gxp every time I change oil 5000 miles I made part service with oil change. I notice I have no problem it
Do I need to do this on my Elantra 2008 with 155 K miles? I have never done it.
Where is it listed for sale? I might be interested.
Got new plugs, new air filter and oil change, so i put premium fuel and added a cleaner to the fuel. Now rpm has been limited to 2000. Engine light blinking. idk if this is connected but will be using the spray soon.
you might as well be the brand ambassador for o'reilys lol
Do you sell the guys on craigslist or through used car dealership?
Just hit 100,000 as well, gonna give this a go
I did this on my 2017 Hyundai Sonata Sport @ 45,000 miles oli change after it started to shake lightly at idle and the throttle response was very laggy and i was getting 26 mpg with mostly i. Town and no spirited driving.
After i did this CRC treatment the car made the same loud knocking noise after the treatment 3500rpm revs and after the i accelerated it on my way to the high way.
Afterwards the light tremebling at idle went away and the thrittle response has improved dramatically with no lag.
The best of all is, the MPGs are back to 28mpg .
I will be doing this every other oil change wich is every 5k miles
After
I did my gdi clean today in my 1.6 Rio at 38k miles after letting it sit a hour I drove it to the hwy and got on it man so much smoke came out got home no more shack when at a stop
The problem with doing it this way is that if the carbon is severe it all dumps into the cat which means replacing the cat will be shortly down the road. Put Techron in your tank once a month and carbon won't be an issue. The knock noise sounded like vaporloack due to dumping it into the vac hose in a short amount of time. Do short bursts and allow the engine to burn it. Rod knocks don't temp reduce the rpm and then recover.....lol. A rod knock is mechanical and once it happens its "replace engine go time" in about all Hyundai's.
Hey I live in Wichita KS, would you ever sell the Volt?
Shouty Kilmer said to plug the vacuum hose with a shop towel and shove the spray tube past it. I am doing it that way! :)
Please don’t listen too that man but that is a good idea I did that with my finger
@@jdoge4204 Don't listen to Shouty?
@jdoge4204 No context.
yep...works for me...and can control the REVS (by sound) that way also, in my case.
Same process on the Veloster Turbo?
Was that Gabe or James Rockford rolling a 180?
Dale Jessop :😎🍻
is this a possible fix for 2013 GLI you think?
1:29 Cue FPS theme. (Most will say Doom, but I'd say Heretic or Hexen since he's unarmed)
Heretic was awesome
What's the update with this car? How much did you sell it for?
This is perfect video because my 2017 Ford Focus SEL has a 2.0L GDI 160HP engine. Ford dealership wants to charge me like 140$ here and 170$ there for the carbon build up engine cleaning service.
That's because this cleaner won't do a damn thing.
Yeah, $12 for the cleaner and $128 to spray it in. Sounds reasonable to me!