The crc intake a valve cleaner works great. Fill that port up right full let it sit for 15 minutes then grab an electric drill and stuff a bunch of zip ties in the end and cut them at differnt lengths and angles and go nuts with a drill. Works awesome.
@@golfmaniac007 you dont just let er rip. Brake clean after. I suppose you could put some rags around or try to hold something over each port while you do it.
Man, I’ve literally spent the day watching your ccv replacement videos and following your steps to get my e46 done! So I’ve been hearing your voice all day lol! But I never tire of your videos, because they have saved me, time and time again. Good work on the valves Jason 🎉
Hey, I use Amsoil Power Foam and a nylon brush for my chemical cleaning and it comes out PERFECT. The foaming action cleans the intake runners while it is breaking down into liquid. You will not be disappointed! It melts away the big chunks of carbon if you just let it sit there and you can speed it up if you use the brush to agitate it. Just let it pool up in there and repeat the process a few times. It's pretty cheap, so you can afford to repeat the process a few times.
Thank you for sharing ! knowledge has even more value when shared ;) I really like your detailed descriptions : "here are the fixture" "here 3 retaining bolts" "here the clip, push this way" "unplug this connector" etc .... This makes a longer video but it's worth it when you'll have to make it on your own.
To clean the intakes on my CX-5, I used Berrymans B-12 with a toothbrush. Took me an hour per cylinder with 4 soak/brush/extract solvent cycles. Glad to see how walnut blasting works, and that's definitly what I'm going to try next time. Thanks for the video!
Outside of doing it myself, I don’t trust anyone else to clean my intake. There are too many problems that can occur with “professional” services. My 2018 Civic EXT (bought new) with the tiny 1.5 liter turbo, GDI, CVT has 130,500 trouble-free miles after 4 1/2 years and averaging 34.1 mpg (combined). I’ve only done early aggressive maintenance...early oil/filter changes,regular transmission fluid changes, coolant flushes, etc. I replaced the water pump, drive belt, and PCV valve. I only use top-tier Shell 93 Octane for the high detergent. That’s it. If I notice my mpg falling I’ll consider the intake clean but until then I’m following the, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” philosophy.
Geez you're committed to the work, this was a very difficult job. An idea for the next time you do this, look at "computer vacuum attachments" which are quite narrow and can put into the opening.
Thank you very much for the informative video! A few points to make, EGR and Crankcase Ventilation are different things, EGR is something we do in order to reduce the oxygen content of the combustion chamber and reduce the temperatures so we produce less NOx, Crank Case Ventilation is something we do to burn oil fumes so they are not released to atmosphere. 100k miles on turbos with any engine can be enough to have bad bearings on the turbo.
I have used the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner a few times. All I have to do is to loosen the intake hose/pipe and tuck in the straw and connect the hose again. The start the engine and use a stick to lightly press the throttle to raise the RPM. Then start spraying the chemical into the engine. Once emptied. Leave the engine rest for 1 hour then go for a drive at highway speed for a few miles. I would deliberately leave the gear lower to rev the engine to around 3000RPM at highway speed. This will make the engine and gearchange smooth like a new car. It's a very good way restore the car mpg and better response driving. I know for sure this method isn't as clean as walnut blasting but to me it is 80% of the job done with 1% of the effort.
I did a chemical clean of my N54 intake valves to save money and was wholly unprepared. I made sure the valves were closed, then I filled up the entire cavities with a mix of brake clean and CRC intake port cleaner that I got from another video here on TH-cam. I was able to get the sidewalls super clean, better than walnut blasting, but just could not for the life of me get the bottom of the ports/top of the valves clean. I tried getting shoving paper towels down there but it only soaked up the liquid and left the carbon buildup sitting at the bottom. Tried wiping it out but couldn't reach it. Tried taping a straw to my wet/dry vac to suck it out, didn't work. Tried to blow it out with my wet/dry vac, didn't work. Plus it took way too long to do and my back was aching lol. If you can find someone to do it for less than 300, I'd say do it just for the convenience alone.
I have used the CRC cleaner a few times. You need two full cans to do the car. You spray about 1/4 of the can into the port and let it sit about 20 min. You need to scrub a little with a tooth brush or something and then give it a rinse with the crc. Blow out and you are good to go.
@@sbmallik2 The intake manifold is very dirty and the place where it connects to intake port has also about 2-3mm thick oily dirt. Have not looked inside with a torch yet.
Brother I have a 18' Kia Soul with the 2.0 GDI engine. I used Berrymans. With a hose and ran it into the intake and let it set for 30 minutes. When I fired her back up the car smoked out my street lol. The neighbor came out thinking my house was on fire lol. She runs better. I haven't tried and thing else because I've been using Berrymans for 20 years. I had a 91' Thunderbird LX Sport 5.0. I tried all the shelf cleaners. STP, LUCAS AND on and on and on. When I was working at Advanced Auto in the commercial area they had Berrymans Intake and fuel system cleaner. I never heard of it before but I tries it. My car wouldn't spin the tires in the dirt. After that she would spin the tires and I've used Berrymans ever since.
I’ll bet this would be a perfect job for dry ice blasting. You’d still have to worry about the carbon pieces but you would have no media to vacuum and could look directly where you are cleaning so it would be very fast too.
Very nice video - thank you! Nonetheles a question: Isn't it necessary to have closed valves when cleaning the port? If so, the valves are not closed in all the ports simultaneously. However, you cleaned all ports whithout rotating the crankshaft to close them sequentially. Am I wrong? Best regards!
Nice guide/test and great explanation! Regarding EGR i would like to inform you about a very important detail. EGR was originally designed only as an emission control system, however over the years manufactures have figured out how to exploit it to keep combustion temperature in check, which on petrol cars means they can(and does) now run higher compression without risk of detonation. That point is very important, as even today i see "EGR deletions/blocking" advised in many car enthusiast forum, which will (yes, will, not perhaps) cause occasional detonations, a effect all petrol heads know is an engine killer
The EGR only opens at light load so I'm doubtful that deleting the EGR would be used to prevent denotation or pre-ignition. At high load, you're more likely to have detonation and the EGR stays close. High static compression itself doesn't cause pinging because you can adjust the fuel and spark to prevent ignition.
@@brarautorepairs Well that's what the car engineers says and besides you could just check Google. Here's literally the first search result: "Knocking noises from the engine can be caused if the EGR is constantly closed. This is because at low rpm the fuel ignites early when it meets the high temperature. Detonations are also common as a second ignition can occur after the normal ignition." Besides I'm pretty sure you misunderstood what I wrote. I was explaining why deleting a EGR is a fairly bad idea, modern engines NEED their EGR BTW how small an engine is needed before you can define regular road use as high load? Pretty sure most people don't run their engines like a race car, so most of a cars life the EGR plays a big role
The crc is to be used while the vehicle is running spary it after your map sensor and let it hot soak for an hour i think the directions say but crc works really well i use it in my diesels and it cleans my systems very well but you have to do exactly as the directions say
As others have said, it's preferable to let the cleaner sit in place longer so it will dissolve the carbon. Once you start on a port, you should not rotate the engine until it's done, to be sure that nothing falls into the cylinder. If you're going to use walnut blasting, you're supposed to block off the PCV passage at the top of each intake port to prevent media from going up into the valve cover PCV passages, because it will end up back in the intake ports and go through your engine. You do this by inserting a feeler gauge between the valve cover and the top of the cylinder head.
I just did this on a VW Tiguan, probably $100 buying a blaster, 25 pounds of walnut shell at HF, and the port blasting fixture from Amazon. No way would I ever put a wire brush in there, one stray piece of wire and your engine is toast. Good luck!
Thank you for sharing! The engine bay looks clean at 150k. I think car owners would probably do a more thorough cleaning job than someone on the clock ⏰
That tiny amount of walnut will body born off. It's bodily just the dust that hangs on. That's why you use walnut. If any gets into the combustion chamber it just burns up. Don't worry about the dust too bad.
There's an aftermarket intake manifold (some of them are just a spacer) for these N54s that has bungs for auxiliary port injectors. Gives you the best of both worlds but also requires a flash to adjust injector pulses...otherwise you'll run rich and melt your catalytic converter. It's best to install along side a catch can (preferably with return line) right after walnut blasting...You can also prevent carbon buildup by installing the VRSF charge pipe and adding a water meth kit...both options are actually supported with your JB4 piggyback box. Both options are probably cheaper than your time is worth if you avoid cleaning your valves 2 or 3 times over the lifetime of the vehicle...Performance also stays more consistent.
It really shows that you have never done this before. You needed to leave the walnut blaster open. Those half-shots are not enough abrasive material to do any real cleaning. Yes you go through more walnut media but really does an amazing job.
I don't have the gear for walnut blasting so have been doing chemical + scrubbing clean. From experience, the CRC GDI cleaner works well, but I'd fill up the intake port about 50% and leave it over night. Makes it much easier to scrub the carbon off the next morning. Then rotate the crank and repeat on the remaining ports. With low-side catch can and the head vacuum ports blocked, the deposit would still come back every six months or so.
@@syedalam3513 Have done it over a single weekend when my car was a daily for work during the week, but now that it's a weekend car, I do have the luxury of time. Start Friday night, soak overnight for 4 of the cylinders and then do the next three saturday night. Button car up on Sunday and back to work Monday.
Keeping it real as usual. My sister just paid $800 in LA for that service on her e90 and she said other shops were asking far more than that. Insane prices for auto repair this year .i bought a trans service kit (fluid and filter )for my e39 and they wanted $200 just for the labor. . Ended up diy,ing it .
Thanks for such a comprehensive video. How do you guard against risk of damage from the steel shaft that holds the brush media or metal wand from the walnut blaster? Thanks again.
Have almost 90k on my N54 and sometimes it does hiccup a little when idling from cold, or accelerating there's a little pause or hiccup as well. Nothing major but I was starting to wonder if its my Ignition Coil packs.. After watching this video I'm now wondering if my intake valves are all clogged up.
Did a power balance test after compression spark and fuel tested good Suspecting cylinder one has Carbon build-up causing no change unplugging the injector
That sensor was the map (manifold absolute pressure)sensor . . .the air temperature sensor is the one on the charge pipe aka maf (mass air flow) sensor
Mine is doing this and it smokes from passenger engine side and smokes from exhaust. I changed valve cover gasket and same problem. I was told it was my turbo seals even though car boost fine and runs good further daily could potentially blow turbo and waste more oil. I am upgrading to 19t twin turbos as they are more affordable route to go to
Is this procedure the same on an E61, 523i with the N53 engine? It doesn't have a turbo, but I believe it has an EGR, so the gunk should be built up as well? I don't think this has been done for maaany years in my car that I took over cheap from my brother. Was thinking of doing this procedure after i've fixed the E039 Nox-issues that it is having.
Would it be a more efficient process to: 1. Soak with cleaner 2. Use pick/abrasive to break down major parts 3. Use air compressor/rag method to remove remaining cleaner 4. Use walnut method for finishing? This way the cleaner doesnt get in the shopvac and cause any hazards, and the cleaner also gives more effectiveness vs using just a mechanical tool going against hard substances.
Did you read the instructions on the CRC? It isn't made as a cleaner like you did. It's made to run through the engine and heat soak afterwards. It is something I use every oil change (6k miles) as well i install a catch can. I was pleasantly surprised the amount of oil the catch can caught that would have made it into the intake. The $16 for the CRC and the less invasive way to clean, helps out for cleaning between major walnut cleanings.
12:50, you definitely do not have to jack up the car for that, you just have to loosen enough screws under the splash shield so you can pry the front off the bumper, also helps if you accidentally dropped tools in your engine bay
That was a good video. The only thing you can do is scarp it off with a wire brush. I have been quoted $1200. for the walnut blast and I will not spend that.
It happens because not all manufactures care enough about their customers to add port injection along with direct injection. That’s the only reason it happens.
Good to see this as a Video, but also, you did not read the instructions on how to use the Chemicals. I have a GDI, and the CRC does well. You were supposed to run the car to help cleaning... but, at 150k, you definitely had to get in there with tools. The chemicals are more like maintenance between, helping to keep the Carbon in the intake manifold and intake system (TB and Turbo) down. Not only does a Catch Can help with the garbage, it helps keep the Gas from the unburning from attacking the Oil in the Oil system. After you drain the Oil, put all the oil into a container, and you can smell and see the Fuel in the Oil from a GDI vs Port Intake injection.
Foxwell 510 scan tool has a diagnostic function under Engine electronics MEVD "start-up following walnut blasting". Next screen states: The stroke adaption of the intake valves is retained with the service function. This must be performed after cleaning the intake ports and intake valves. The carrying out of this service function can take about 25-60 min. Has anyone run this or similar (using different scan tool)?
HELP!! My son and I recently tore into his 2004 E46 (325ci) to replace his valve stem seals. After we got it all put back together (timing reset and all that stuff) it cranks but doesn't start. The electrical box under the air intake buzzes if the key is in position 2, and for a few seconds after the key is turned back off. We did get a P1625 pedal position code, double checked all the connections, and the code hasn't reset since, but still the engine is turning but not firing up. Sounds a bit funny too. Any ideas what could be wrong, what we should try to double check first?
@@50sKid Will do tomorrow evening. The electrical box humming seems new to me, did it always I never noticed? Btw, thanks soo much for your videos and for replying. Seriously very awesome of you.
@@nimrod6207 the idle air control valve on just about any car makes an annoying hum when the ignition is on. You can try unplugging it and the noise should go away. If it’s something other than that, it’s a problem.
Nothing will remove the hard deposits other than scraping with a physical tool. Besides, why send all that gunk through your engine only to have it potentially clog your cats? 😮
Crc worked for me without it being warm, you just fill the valve base full of it crc . Then fill the rest of the port with non-chlorinated brake cleaner like a 50/50 mix , let it simmer for 20mins. Then suction some of the chemical stew up...agitate the remaining chemical with a brass pope brush. Then suction it out. This this to my GDI 2016 Honda civic at 143,000. I became the second owner at 142,000. The valves look great! Not 100% but 90-95% clean. I can live with that , rather than pay an absurd cost at a shop for walnut blasting...which no one near me nor the dealership offered. Instead all did an air induction cleaning which I knew would not do the job with 143000 worth of carbon build up
The bmw engines are some of the easyest engine to clean with vallnut, on some engines is the access catastrophic , so is the chemical cleaning more util
No I'm not really a fan of the blasting technique could cause issues what you want to do is try some WD40 30% mixed in with acetone and a couple drops of washing up liquid mixit thoroughly and leave it for half an hour then go in with your little brushes while it's still liquid in it. Might find if you cut a bit of the end of the brushes stem that goes in the drill leaving yourself about three quarters of an inch sticking out attach a hose tightly and on the other end of the hose just using extension so it's flexible. I think the tie rap method is quite good but you really want to use a lot of tie wraps jammed in the drill and cut them off at an angle not straight
as an engine builder, please do not scrub with hard brushes due to the fact you may shave down the valve from minimum specification. If you scrubbing is your only option due to budget, stick with soft brizzles brush.
in another channel I saw other TH-camr use WD-40 as a 1st step to penetrate the carbon for 5 minutes and 2nd step they use carb cleaner/ injector cleaner spray, soak it for 5 minutes and the last step, they use detailers brush to scrub the carbon, and finished it with air compressor and the results is better
CRC continues to work for around 1,000 miles depending on your engine and driving habits. It stays wet for a long time on purpose, so it works over time with the heat of your engine during drive time. CRC also says to heat soak for 1 hour before taking it out driving for at least 10 minutes at robust speeds. All these "trials" of CRC that don't wait for the heat soak, don't take the car on the road, don't wait 100s of miles at least before checking valve condition changes are really a waist of time. I've never seen another product that makes the claim that it continues to work after spraying like CRC. I'm about to test it out though! Time will tell... or should I say... miles will tell? 😉 Not to mention that of the stuff I've seen TH-camrs use.... the distilled water worked as well or better than any of the chemicals. Who knew? lol Thanks for the tip of using the lawn sprayer - I didn't know how to apply the distilled water, but I do now!! Brilliant!!
combine the chemical with the walnut, the chemical reacts with and breaks down the carbon build up, and loosens up the molecular chains, combining it with the media blasting would likely give best result.
The crc intake a valve cleaner works great. Fill that port up right full let it sit for 15 minutes then grab an electric drill and stuff a bunch of zip ties in the end and cut them at differnt lengths and angles and go nuts with a drill. Works awesome.
Took the words right out of my mouth
About how many cans will I need? I also have almost 150k miles and I don’t think it’s ever been done
@@Timrex17 1 can was enough for me. I think I used the whole can can't remember. If you want to get two, to be safe that will be more then enough.
how do you prevent from creating a big mess when zip ties start spinning?
@@golfmaniac007 you dont just let er rip. Brake clean after. I suppose you could put some rags around or try to hold something over each port while you do it.
Man, I’ve literally spent the day watching your ccv replacement videos and following your steps to get my e46 done! So I’ve been hearing your voice all day lol! But I never tire of your videos, because they have saved me, time and time again. Good work on the valves Jason 🎉
he has kept my e46 on the road for 200K miles
I just got my first e46 and I'm loving this guy he has helped me learn so much already and I Have had my car for like 2 weeks
Hey, I use Amsoil Power Foam and a nylon brush for my chemical cleaning and it comes out PERFECT. The foaming action cleans the intake runners while it is breaking down into liquid. You will not be disappointed! It melts away the big chunks of carbon if you just let it sit there and you can speed it up if you use the brush to agitate it. Just let it pool up in there and repeat the process a few times. It's pretty cheap, so you can afford to repeat the process a few times.
Thank you for sharing ! knowledge has even more value when shared ;)
I really like your detailed descriptions : "here are the fixture" "here 3 retaining bolts" "here the clip, push this way" "unplug this connector" etc ....
This makes a longer video but it's worth it when you'll have to make it on your own.
To clean the intakes on my CX-5, I used Berrymans B-12 with a toothbrush. Took me an hour per cylinder with 4 soak/brush/extract solvent cycles. Glad to see how walnut blasting works, and that's definitly what I'm going to try next time. Thanks for the video!
Outside of doing it myself, I don’t trust anyone else to clean my intake. There are too many problems that can occur with “professional” services.
My 2018 Civic EXT (bought new) with the tiny 1.5 liter turbo, GDI, CVT has 130,500 trouble-free miles after 4 1/2 years and averaging 34.1 mpg (combined). I’ve only done early aggressive maintenance...early oil/filter changes,regular transmission fluid changes, coolant flushes, etc. I replaced the water pump, drive belt, and PCV valve. I only use top-tier Shell 93 Octane for the high detergent. That’s it. If I notice my mpg falling I’ll consider the intake clean but until then I’m following the, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” philosophy.
For super thick deposits, I find a heat gun really softens the tar to make it easy to remove, then finish off with a cleaner.
Geez you're committed to the work, this was a very difficult job. An idea for the next time you do this, look at "computer vacuum attachments" which are quite narrow and can put into the opening.
Those cleaners are really meant for it to be running and work in combination with heat.
Thank you very much for the informative video! A few points to make, EGR and Crankcase Ventilation are different things, EGR is something we do in order to reduce the oxygen content of the combustion chamber and reduce the temperatures so we produce less NOx, Crank Case Ventilation is something we do to burn oil fumes so they are not released to atmosphere. 100k miles on turbos with any engine can be enough to have bad bearings on the turbo.
Use a catch can guys it solves everything
I have used the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner a few times. All I have to do is to loosen the intake hose/pipe and tuck in the straw and connect the hose again. The start the engine and use a stick to lightly press the throttle to raise the RPM. Then start spraying the chemical into the engine. Once emptied. Leave the engine rest for 1 hour then go for a drive at highway speed for a few miles.
I would deliberately leave the gear lower to rev the engine to around 3000RPM at highway speed.
This will make the engine and gearchange smooth like a new car. It's a very good way restore the car mpg and better response driving. I know for sure this method isn't as clean as walnut blasting but to me it is 80% of the job done with 1% of the effort.
I did a chemical clean of my N54 intake valves to save money and was wholly unprepared. I made sure the valves were closed, then I filled up the entire cavities with a mix of brake clean and CRC intake port cleaner that I got from another video here on TH-cam. I was able to get the sidewalls super clean, better than walnut blasting, but just could not for the life of me get the bottom of the ports/top of the valves clean. I tried getting shoving paper towels down there but it only soaked up the liquid and left the carbon buildup sitting at the bottom. Tried wiping it out but couldn't reach it. Tried taping a straw to my wet/dry vac to suck it out, didn't work. Tried to blow it out with my wet/dry vac, didn't work. Plus it took way too long to do and my back was aching lol.
If you can find someone to do it for less than 300, I'd say do it just for the convenience alone.
Dude my hamstrings are still killing me from leaning over the car!
Did you try scrapping the valves with a flat head or pick?
@@luispina317 of course
Zip ties, in a drill, aggressively. See other videos.
very important tip, make sure to only clean with valves closed otherwise you'll get crap into your combustion chamber.
How to close the valves when some of it are open?
Thanks again 50's Kid. your a rock star on the forums lol. Just a quick suggestion, maybe an E30 on the channel sometime soon?
I have used the CRC cleaner a few times. You need two full cans to do the car. You spray about 1/4 of the can into the port and let it sit about 20 min. You need to scrub a little with a tooth brush or something and then give it a rinse with the crc. Blow out and you are good to go.
Your video is right on time! I planned to clean my e46 intake this week !
Just curious, I think E46 has port injection … so is it necessary to clean the intake ports?
@@sbmallik2 The intake manifold is very dirty and the place where it connects to intake port has also about 2-3mm thick oily dirt. Have not looked inside with a torch yet.
@@pa4uakan well - in that case it’s worth to inspect the intake ports … thanks.
Wonderful vid tutorial. Loved the way you trouble shot this and showed the different cleaning options. Just starting mine.
Just a tip: having a endoscope helps see the valves better and easier.
Brother I have a 18' Kia Soul with the 2.0 GDI engine. I used Berrymans. With a hose and ran it into the intake and let it set for 30 minutes. When I fired her back up the car smoked out my street lol. The neighbor came out thinking my house was on fire lol. She runs better. I haven't tried and thing else because I've been using Berrymans for 20 years. I had a 91' Thunderbird LX Sport 5.0. I tried all the shelf cleaners. STP, LUCAS AND on and on and on. When I was working at Advanced Auto in the commercial area they had Berrymans Intake and fuel system cleaner. I never heard of it before but I tries it. My car wouldn't spin the tires in the dirt. After that she would spin the tires and I've used Berrymans ever since.
What about spraying seafoam into the intake manifold with the engine running to clean out the valves?
I’ll bet this would be a perfect job for dry ice blasting. You’d still have to worry about the carbon pieces but you would have no media to vacuum and could look directly where you are cleaning so it would be very fast too.
I wish I had a dry ice blaster!
dry ice did not work with carbon clog: was tested and had zero efficiency, best is walnut
Lexus IS and GS had the same issue, and in a few years, they redesigned the engine to have both direct and port injectors. That solves all the issues.
Video on the balljoint from hell that is in picture on the floor 4:30!
Always good videos ! :)
Haha my makeshift light stand weights
Very nice video - thank you! Nonetheles a question: Isn't it necessary to have closed valves when cleaning the port? If so, the valves are not closed in all the ports simultaneously. However, you cleaned all ports whithout rotating the crankshaft to close them sequentially. Am I wrong? Best regards!
Nice guide/test and great explanation!
Regarding EGR i would like to inform you about a very important detail. EGR was originally designed only as an emission control system, however over the years manufactures have figured out how to exploit it to keep combustion temperature in check, which on petrol cars means they can(and does) now run higher compression without risk of detonation. That point is very important, as even today i see "EGR deletions/blocking" advised in many car enthusiast forum, which will (yes, will, not perhaps) cause occasional detonations, a effect all petrol heads know is an engine killer
The EGR only opens at light load so I'm doubtful that deleting the EGR would be used to prevent denotation or pre-ignition. At high load, you're more likely to have detonation and the EGR stays close.
High static compression itself doesn't cause pinging because you can adjust the fuel and spark to prevent ignition.
@@brarautorepairs Well that's what the car engineers says and besides you could just check Google. Here's literally the first search result: "Knocking noises from the engine can be caused if the EGR is constantly closed. This is because at low rpm the fuel ignites early when it meets the high temperature. Detonations are also common as a second ignition can occur after the normal ignition." Besides I'm pretty sure you misunderstood what I wrote. I was explaining why deleting a EGR is a fairly bad idea, modern engines NEED their EGR
BTW how small an engine is needed before you can define regular road use as high load? Pretty sure most people don't run their engines like a race car, so most of a cars life the EGR plays a big role
The crc is to be used while the vehicle is running spary it after your map sensor and let it hot soak for an hour i think the directions say but crc works really well i use it in my diesels and it cleans my systems very well but you have to do exactly as the directions say
As others have said, it's preferable to let the cleaner sit in place longer so it will dissolve the carbon. Once you start on a port, you should not rotate the engine until it's done, to be sure that nothing falls into the cylinder. If you're going to use walnut blasting, you're supposed to block off the PCV passage at the top of each intake port to prevent media from going up into the valve cover PCV passages, because it will end up back in the intake ports and go through your engine. You do this by inserting a feeler gauge between the valve cover and the top of the cylinder head.
could you expand and give play by play of inserting feelier guage between the valve cover and top of the cylinder head?
Great topic. If you’re a diy, you prob have a compressor, and the gear for walnut blasting is not expensive and is highly effective!!
I just did this on a VW Tiguan, probably $100 buying a blaster, 25 pounds of walnut shell at HF, and the port blasting fixture from Amazon. No way would I ever put a wire brush in there, one stray piece of wire and your engine is toast. Good luck!
Thank you for sharing! The engine bay looks clean at 150k. I think car owners would probably do a more thorough cleaning job than someone on the clock ⏰
Jason, great to see your forward.
Man, you look like a totally different guy. 👍
As always, thanks for your video.
Bruh I recognized his voice and the bandana, but further... Hahah
That tiny amount of walnut will body born off. It's bodily just the dust that hangs on. That's why you use walnut. If any gets into the combustion chamber it just burns up. Don't worry about the dust too bad.
I bet Berryman's B 12 would work great.
There's an aftermarket intake manifold (some of them are just a spacer) for these N54s that has bungs for auxiliary port injectors. Gives you the best of both worlds but also requires a flash to adjust injector pulses...otherwise you'll run rich and melt your catalytic converter.
It's best to install along side a catch can (preferably with return line) right after walnut blasting...You can also prevent carbon buildup by installing the VRSF charge pipe and adding a water meth kit...both options are actually supported with your JB4 piggyback box.
Both options are probably cheaper than your time is worth if you avoid cleaning your valves 2 or 3 times over the lifetime of the vehicle...Performance also stays more consistent.
It really shows that you have never done this before. You needed to leave the walnut blaster open. Those half-shots are not enough abrasive material to do any real cleaning. Yes you go through more walnut media but really does an amazing job.
I don't have the gear for walnut blasting so have been doing chemical + scrubbing clean. From experience, the CRC GDI cleaner works well, but I'd fill up the intake port about 50% and leave it over night. Makes it much easier to scrub the carbon off the next morning. Then rotate the crank and repeat on the remaining ports. With low-side catch can and the head vacuum ports blocked, the deposit would still come back every six months or so.
So basically it takes 6 nights to the process?
@@syedalam3513 Have done it over a single weekend when my car was a daily for work during the week, but now that it's a weekend car, I do have the luxury of time. Start Friday night, soak overnight for 4 of the cylinders and then do the next three saturday night. Button car up on Sunday and back to work Monday.
Keeping it real as usual. My sister just paid $800 in LA for that service on her e90 and she said other shops were asking far more than that. Insane prices for auto repair this year .i bought a trans service kit (fluid and filter )for my e39 and they wanted $200 just for the labor. . Ended up diy,ing it .
Wow man, your sister got jacked! $800 for something like 4 hours of work.
Do you see how much work that was? What do you want, free labor?
It's like this whole video is an ad for using a catch can.
It’s critical for a boosted engine, take it to heart, it really helps reduce the amount of oil vapor going into the engine.
What are your air compressor specs?
Thanks for such a comprehensive video. How do you guard against risk of damage from the steel shaft that holds the brush media or metal wand from the walnut blaster? Thanks again.
awesome vid bud, you are very skilled
Need to have both. Port and direct
Have almost 90k on my N54 and sometimes it does hiccup a little when idling from cold, or accelerating there's a little pause or hiccup as well. Nothing major but I was starting to wonder if its my Ignition Coil packs.. After watching this video I'm now wondering if my intake valves are all clogged up.
Wouldn’t a oil catch can help cut down on the carbon
Great video as always! Lots of work but needed.
Did a power balance test after compression spark and fuel tested good Suspecting cylinder one has Carbon build-up causing no change unplugging the injector
That sensor was the map (manifold absolute pressure)sensor . . .the air temperature sensor is the one on the charge pipe aka maf (mass air flow) sensor
Mine is doing this and it smokes from passenger engine side and smokes from exhaust. I changed valve cover gasket and same problem. I was told it was my turbo seals even though car boost fine and runs good further daily could potentially blow turbo and waste more oil. I am upgrading to 19t twin turbos as they are more affordable route to go to
New intro for Jason, Classic!
We moved on to n54 now ?! That’s dope man !
Great video. Brake cleaner works on too if you do good picking and scrubbing.
What a great and informative video, thank you for your time to relay the process and lend a helping hand
Great blaster. I have same and use for Soda blasting. Now want dual purpose for adding walnut media.
Great video as always!
P-Chi
Is this procedure the same on an E61, 523i with the N53 engine? It doesn't have a turbo, but I believe it has an EGR, so the gunk should be built up as well? I don't think this has been done for maaany years in my car that I took over cheap from my brother. Was thinking of doing this procedure after i've fixed the E039 Nox-issues that it is having.
HES BACK.
Hi .I like your video and I like your honesty. Cheers from Tassie Australia..
Remember when walnut blast cost $300 and index 12s were $1,000. Good old days
Who da fis this?!?!!!!! OMG, i die not recognize him and did not belive it was him, until i heard his voice. Glad to see himback!!!
Love your videos man, very informative and great content, thank you :)
Would it be a more efficient process to:
1. Soak with cleaner
2. Use pick/abrasive to break down major parts
3. Use air compressor/rag method to remove remaining cleaner
4. Use walnut method for finishing?
This way the cleaner doesnt get in the shopvac and cause any hazards, and the cleaner also gives more effectiveness vs using just a mechanical tool going against hard substances.
The one thing I dread with direct injection. Probably a pay someone to do it thing. As always good content!
Did you read the instructions on the CRC? It isn't made as a cleaner like you did. It's made to run through the engine and heat soak afterwards. It is something I use every oil change (6k miles) as well i install a catch can. I was pleasantly surprised the amount of oil the catch can caught that would have made it into the intake. The $16 for the CRC and the less invasive way to clean, helps out for cleaning between major walnut cleanings.
Correct. I was going to mention this but you just did.
I used to do that until it killed my Cat
Could you use dry ice to clean carbon build up? There would be no cleanup necessary. 🤔🤔
You should try Carbon X Combustion Chamber Cleaner K1+K2... would of cleaned it good
excelent vid bro! loved it.
hmmm i wonder if you could use dry ice blaster and get it done much cleaner.
12:50, you definitely do not have to jack up the car for that, you just have to loosen enough screws under the splash shield so you can pry the front off the bumper, also helps if you accidentally dropped tools in your engine bay
Nice job there. I need this treatment urgently
What air compressor do you use and what is the minimum air compressor do I need to use the walnut blast?
That was a good video. The only thing you can do is scarp it off with a wire brush. I have been quoted $1200. for the walnut blast and I will not spend that.
Buy the xtool walnu blaster kit $400
It happens because not all manufactures care enough about their customers to add port injection along with direct injection. That’s the only reason it happens.
Good to see this as a Video, but also, you did not read the instructions on how to use the Chemicals. I have a GDI, and the CRC does well. You were supposed to run the car to help cleaning... but, at 150k, you definitely had to get in there with tools. The chemicals are more like maintenance between, helping to keep the Carbon in the intake manifold and intake system (TB and Turbo) down. Not only does a Catch Can help with the garbage, it helps keep the Gas from the unburning from attacking the Oil in the Oil system. After you drain the Oil, put all the oil into a container, and you can smell and see the Fuel in the Oil from a GDI vs Port Intake injection.
Why didn't you clean the intake manifold?
Foxwell 510 scan tool has a diagnostic function under Engine electronics MEVD "start-up following walnut blasting". Next screen states: The stroke adaption of the intake valves is retained with the service function. This must be performed after cleaning the intake ports and intake valves. The carrying out of this service function can take about 25-60 min.
Has anyone run this or similar (using different scan tool)?
HELP!! My son and I recently tore into his 2004 E46 (325ci) to replace his valve stem seals. After we got it all put back together (timing reset and all that stuff) it cranks but doesn't start. The electrical box under the air intake buzzes if the key is in position 2, and for a few seconds after the key is turned back off.
We did get a P1625 pedal position code, double checked all the connections, and the code hasn't reset since, but still the engine is turning but not firing up. Sounds a bit funny too.
Any ideas what could be wrong, what we should try to double check first?
Back to basics. Check for spark and fuel
@@50sKid Will do tomorrow evening. The electrical box humming seems new to me, did it always I never noticed?
Btw, thanks soo much for your videos and for replying. Seriously very awesome of you.
@@nimrod6207 the idle air control valve on just about any car makes an annoying hum when the ignition is on. You can try unplugging it and the noise should go away. If it’s something other than that, it’s a problem.
@@50sKid Jason You Are....Mr NICE GUY! Thanks for being you!
subaru upper engine cleaner is my go to. I think 3 bond make a similar product now which is for diesels and is a bit cheaper
Funny how new, improved technology (i.e. direct injection) creates more problems that weren't an issue before.
Super clean or purple power
would Sea Foam down the throttle body work ok?
Nothing will remove the hard deposits other than scraping with a physical tool. Besides, why send all that gunk through your engine only to have it potentially clog your cats? 😮
Kid...your videos are awesome good and time and mainly, $$$ saving, tx!!!!
The CRC has to be applied with a RUNNING HOT engine.
Yes, and then sit idle 1/2 hour then drive the vehicle.
Crc worked for me without it being warm, you just fill the valve base full of it crc . Then fill the rest of the port with non-chlorinated brake cleaner like a 50/50 mix , let it simmer for 20mins. Then suction some of the chemical stew up...agitate the remaining chemical with a brass pope brush. Then suction it out.
This this to my GDI 2016 Honda civic at 143,000. I became the second owner at 142,000. The valves look great! Not 100% but 90-95% clean. I can live with that , rather than pay an absurd cost at a shop for walnut blasting...which no one near me nor the dealership offered. Instead all did an air induction cleaning which I knew would not do the job with 143000 worth of carbon build up
Lucas the best
@@georgemoomaw9437this is not what it says on the directions, follow directions or don't complain when it causes issues or doesn't work
For this instance,no , it is used as solvent to resolve it.
Great job i like your honesty
About your job
Excellent. Great video!
I try using them chemical cleaner and they're just junk. It doesn't do crap to clean the heavy carbon build up on the intake valve.
That nozzle you bought looks like a piece of oversize brake line ?!
The bmw engines are some of the easyest engine to clean with vallnut, on some engines is the access catastrophic , so is the chemical cleaning more util
Great video!
No I'm not really a fan of the blasting technique could cause issues what you want to do is try some WD40 30% mixed in with acetone and a couple drops of washing up liquid mixit thoroughly and leave it for half an hour then go in with your little brushes while it's still liquid in it. Might find if you cut a bit of the end of the brushes stem that goes in the drill leaving yourself about three quarters of an inch sticking out attach a hose tightly and on the other end of the hose just using extension so it's flexible. I think the tie rap method is quite good but you really want to use a lot of tie wraps jammed in the drill and cut them off at an angle not straight
What type of walnut shell is ?
U said u didn't spray enough crc so is this really a fair comparison?
The CRC instructions are nothing remotely close to how he is using it in this video
Why did you delete the seican video?
as an engine builder, please do not scrub with hard brushes due to the fact you may shave down the valve from minimum specification. If you scrubbing is your only option due to budget, stick with soft brizzles brush.
People port their valves all the time by removing material
What do you think about 505 CRO and CRF cleaning ? Scotty Kilmer highly recommended them
Since I have no experience using them I really can’t comment on their effectiveness!
@@50sKid probably a good idea for a video, there is zero info about this, it could be good
@@lx4118 yeah I’ll see if I can find them
in another channel I saw other TH-camr use WD-40 as a 1st step to penetrate the carbon for 5 minutes and 2nd step they use carb cleaner/ injector cleaner spray, soak it for 5 minutes and the last step, they use detailers brush to scrub the carbon, and finished it with air compressor and the results is better
CRC continues to work for around 1,000 miles depending on your engine and driving habits. It stays wet for a long time on purpose, so it works over time with the heat of your engine during drive time. CRC also says to heat soak for 1 hour before taking it out driving for at least 10 minutes at robust speeds.
All these "trials" of CRC that don't wait for the heat soak, don't take the car on the road, don't wait 100s of miles at least before checking valve condition changes are really a waist of time. I've never seen another product that makes the claim that it continues to work after spraying like CRC. I'm about to test it out though! Time will tell... or should I say... miles will tell? 😉
Not to mention that of the stuff I've seen TH-camrs use.... the distilled water worked as well or better than any of the chemicals. Who knew? lol
Thanks for the tip of using the lawn sprayer - I didn't know how to apply the distilled water, but I do now!! Brilliant!!
Being an e46 owner, this direct port injection problem is the biggest reason I'm switching to Tesla instead of upgrading to a newer BMW
combine the chemical with the walnut, the chemical reacts with and breaks down the carbon build up, and loosens up the molecular chains, combining it with the media blasting would likely give best result.
Why don't you try using paint thinner or diluted sulphuric acid
Carburettor cleaner works great 👍