As mentioned in a couple of the comments, some of my terminology is a bit off regarding components on this vehicle as this was my first experience with this vehicle. The fix seemed solid. My buddy sold the car a few months after this video was made and had no further issues with it.
I had the same problem ordered a new actuator/valve for 75 bucks and it completely fixed the car! NO NEED TO BUY A BRAND NEW TURBO and pay 7k! (mine is an 07 rdx and has 176k miles)
@@AtulVerma-ir1qp So from what I've been reading a P2263 can be related to the valve for the Variable turbine flow which is what he was pointing at in this video. If you get P0234 Overboost it may be related to the wastegate which is hidden on the bottom and difficult to get to without removing the turbo. I'm getting the P0234 overboost code and had to pull the turbo to test the wastegate and vacuum lines.
Thanks for the tip. I have the same turbo overboost error code. Of course the dealer says to replace the entire turbo. NO THANKS! And yes my wastegate valve is sticking. Did you notice when you accelerate the car jolts (built up air pressure) and then the SH-AWD and check engine lights would appear? This is the current behavior of my car now. I will have my guy perform this and provide an update.
I get jolts and lurches but not when I accelerate... the jolting/lurching I get happens when it's down-shifting and my foot is *not* on the gas, OR the brake - any updates from your fix?
Jimmy Ng , for mine the check engine comes on some times when the turbo kicks in with the Emissions code and some time the awd , I changed the air filter checked for possible air leak and cleaned the intercooler , no luck here ... the dealer charges me 3k for refurbished/used turbo and 7k for new
Great video but that is not a wastegate actuator you are pointing to. The wastegate actuator and rod is sandwiched between the cylinder head and compressor/turbine housing and cannot be seen in the video. The RDX uses a Variable Turbine Geometry turbo which includes a PCM controlled wastegate and a PCM controlled variable flow geometry actuator. The actuator you were pointing to in this video is the variable flow geometry actuator, it's job is to reduce spool time and speed up boost response in low and high RPM's. Think of it as a IMRC Acura uses on their intake manifolds to increase torque in low RPM's and horsepower in high.
hi there, this is the code I got from car diagnostic scanner because I got the check engine light appear in my 2007 acura rdx. I'm not a mechanic but how much would a mechanic charge fix this problem?
I was actually looking into picking one of these up ,but was unsure about this because it's a new engine for these year RDX I always shy away from the new year models, and am typically in favor of getting a model a few years after because of part revisions and normally mid year models might have less annoying problems.
I don't think this is a real fix; the error codes will come back. In this case you likely need to replace that VGT actuator (the part where the hole is worn). You might not be actually adjusting anything, the 10mm barrel moves up one threaded rod while the other end backs off another threaded rod... I'm not actually sure the distance between the two ever changes. More information and other options: This video is talking about the "VGT actuator arm" or "variable flow geometry actuator". Sometimes its hole gets worn into an egg shape, and maybe you can adjust it as seen in this video, but I suspect this won't fix the problem, and the worn part will eventually lead to full turbo failure when it breaks. There's a guy in Canada who will fabricate this part for you for about $250. You can replace it without removing the turbo, as long as you have some patience and a couple 10mm wrenches. Here's a video of that install: th-cam.com/video/H4rlQv34Mz4/w-d-xo.html Sometimes it's not just the actuator arm hole that gets worn, sometimes the linkage gets worn too. I'm not sure how to replace that. Replacing the worn actuator will help reduce the total amount of slop. One guy took a wire wrap, and wrapped it around the actuator arm and the linkage to hold them tightly together as a "temp" fix (he kept it there for 2 years... not sure how great of an idea that really is). Also, if your boost gauge seems like it just stays at 0% or 100%, check your DIAPHRAGM actuator. There's an actuator with a washer which opens/closes it, and sometimes the washer breaks off. If you weld a washer back on it'll fix that problem. If you take your car to the dealer with most of these problems, they'll say you need to replace your whole turbocharger (which is a $4k-7k job). Also, sometimes it's a bad turbo boost pressure sensor. That's under $500 to replace. Check out this forum thread for more info on all of this: acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-problems-fixes-160/p2263-turbo-problems-861782/
I have an 08 throwing p2263, p0420 and p0299 Got it at an auction today. Feels underpowered. Boost gauge moves up a little but not all the way. Also I reset the codes drive it 30 miles home. Still lack of power but I’m wondering if That is the fix. Also 250$ for a small tiny part ? That seems a little crazy if it’s the small part I’m seeing in the other video. Is there anything else I can test or check or replace cheaply just to narrow it down?
CoreyP don’t know if you fixed this, but my RDX currently has the P2263 issue, read the thread, you can get links to eBay where you can also search for the same part which can now be had for $40-$60. there is another part listed on there which I believe is the OEM turbo actuator that you can get new for around $250 or less. I mention that because you’re throwing more codes which may necessitate additional parts. Hope you got it worked out either way.
Thank you, Henry! This video is helpful and presented very properly.
As mentioned in a couple of the comments, some of my terminology is a bit off regarding components on this vehicle as this was my first experience with this vehicle. The fix seemed solid. My buddy sold the car a few months after this video was made and had no further issues with it.
Did you have to remove the turbo or use any special tools to adult waste gate on the rdx turbo?
Adjust
I had the same problem ordered a new actuator/valve for 75 bucks and it completely fixed the car! NO NEED TO BUY A BRAND NEW TURBO and pay 7k! (mine is an 07 rdx and has 176k miles)
Where did you end up ordering a new actuator/valve?
wakawu had a junkyard pull it from a wrecked rdx!
Mr Lopez, did you change the wastegate control valve and actuator?
@@AtulVerma-ir1qp So from what I've been reading a P2263 can be related to the valve for the Variable turbine flow which is what he was pointing at in this video. If you get P0234 Overboost it may be related to the wastegate which is hidden on the bottom and difficult to get to without removing the turbo. I'm getting the P0234 overboost code and had to pull the turbo to test the wastegate and vacuum lines.
@@wakawu what did you find after you pulled the turbo thanks?
Thanks for the tip. I have the same turbo overboost error code. Of course the dealer says to replace the entire turbo. NO THANKS! And yes my wastegate valve is sticking. Did you notice when you accelerate the car jolts (built up air pressure) and then the SH-AWD and check engine lights would appear? This is the current behavior of my car now. I will have my guy perform this and provide an update.
Theavy Horn this one didn't jolt. May not have been as out of adjustment as yours might be. Good luck
Hope you get it fixed quick and cheap!
same problem here
I get jolts and lurches but not when I accelerate... the jolting/lurching I get happens when it's down-shifting and my foot is *not* on the gas, OR the brake - any updates from your fix?
Jimmy Ng , for mine the check engine comes on some times when the turbo kicks in with the Emissions code and some time the awd , I changed the air filter checked for possible air leak and cleaned the intercooler , no luck here ... the dealer charges me 3k for refurbished/used turbo and 7k for new
Any update @Theavy Horn? Mine is doing the same as yours. Thank you!
Tried this fix, was able to remove the play in it but check engine cam back after 45 miles.
Great video but that is not a wastegate actuator you are pointing to. The wastegate actuator and rod is sandwiched between the cylinder head and compressor/turbine housing and cannot be seen in the video. The RDX uses a Variable Turbine Geometry turbo which includes a PCM controlled wastegate and a PCM controlled variable flow geometry actuator. The actuator you were pointing to in this video is the variable flow geometry actuator, it's job is to reduce spool time and speed up boost response in low and high RPM's.
Think of it as a IMRC Acura uses on their intake manifolds to increase torque in low RPM's and horsepower in high.
mike roy I can confirm this. This comment is 100% accurate. Furthermore it isn’t vacuum controlled, it is pressure controlled.
Ahhh! Makes sense... First experience with one of these.
hi there, this is the code I got from car diagnostic scanner because I got the check engine light appear in my 2007 acura rdx. I'm not a mechanic but how much would a mechanic charge fix this problem?
I couldn’t get the clip on do y’all think I’ll be fine?
Where did you get the part from
9000.00$ quote here in Massachusetts for turbo at dealer
Hi where did you get the wastegate actuator?
I was actually looking into picking one of these up ,but was unsure about this because it's a new engine for these year RDX I always shy away from the new year models, and am typically in favor of getting a model a few years after because of part revisions and normally mid year models might have less annoying problems.
Wastegate Actuator is operated by Boost Pressure NOT Vacuum!
Hi where did you find the wastegate actuator?
are these cars reliable?
Very , it's from honda , but you need to know what you doing .
You turn it clockwise or counter?
I dont remember which way. You wont have to turn it far one way or the other and you will know if it is correct
@@Supercrewchief got it in. just needed some wd40
Wear i can get.The part
Dunno. I didn't buy one.
I don't think this is a real fix; the error codes will come back. In this case you likely need to replace that VGT actuator (the part where the hole is worn). You might not be actually adjusting anything, the 10mm barrel moves up one threaded rod while the other end backs off another threaded rod... I'm not actually sure the distance between the two ever changes.
More information and other options:
This video is talking about the "VGT actuator arm" or "variable flow geometry actuator". Sometimes its hole gets worn into an egg shape, and maybe you can adjust it as seen in this video, but I suspect this won't fix the problem, and the worn part will eventually lead to full turbo failure when it breaks. There's a guy in Canada who will fabricate this part for you for about $250. You can replace it without removing the turbo, as long as you have some patience and a couple 10mm wrenches. Here's a video of that install: th-cam.com/video/H4rlQv34Mz4/w-d-xo.html
Sometimes it's not just the actuator arm hole that gets worn, sometimes the linkage gets worn too. I'm not sure how to replace that. Replacing the worn actuator will help reduce the total amount of slop. One guy took a wire wrap, and wrapped it around the actuator arm and the linkage to hold them tightly together as a "temp" fix (he kept it there for 2 years... not sure how great of an idea that really is).
Also, if your boost gauge seems like it just stays at 0% or 100%, check your DIAPHRAGM actuator. There's an actuator with a washer which opens/closes it, and sometimes the washer breaks off. If you weld a washer back on it'll fix that problem.
If you take your car to the dealer with most of these problems, they'll say you need to replace your whole turbocharger (which is a $4k-7k job).
Also, sometimes it's a bad turbo boost pressure sensor. That's under $500 to replace.
Check out this forum thread for more info on all of this: acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-problems-fixes-160/p2263-turbo-problems-861782/
I have an 08 throwing p2263, p0420 and p0299
Got it at an auction today. Feels underpowered. Boost gauge moves up a little but not all the way. Also I reset the codes drive it 30 miles home. Still lack of power but I’m wondering if That is the fix. Also 250$ for a small tiny part ? That seems a little crazy if it’s the small part I’m seeing in the other video. Is there anything else I can test or check or replace cheaply just to narrow it down?
CoreyP don’t know if you fixed this, but my RDX currently has the P2263 issue, read the thread, you can get links to eBay where you can also search for the same part which can now be had for $40-$60. there is another part listed on there which I believe is the OEM turbo actuator that you can get new for around $250 or less. I mention that because you’re throwing more codes which may necessitate additional parts. Hope you got it worked out either way.
????????
I've owned 3 RDXs, but after being told it will cost $9,500 to replace the turbo because of this stupid little problem I will NEVER buy another RDX.