Have the exact same car. Problem is these engines are oil burners. Buy the spark plug + coil kit from ECS Tuning and replace them once. Everytime it starts misfiring just remove them and clean both plugs and coils with electrical cleaner. Problem solved. Been doing this for 80k miles and still solves this issue.
hi there, this is the code I got from car diagnostic scanner because I got the check engine light appear in my 2007 acura rdx. I'm not a mechanic but how much would a mechanic charge fix this problem?
Large spark plug gaps cause high current demand and higher wear on coil packs until failure or poor performance. New coil packs can disguise badly gapped plugs hence the problem seems to go away and then comes back. If a coil pack fails then you must ask why before installing another one that may also fail soon. Thanks for the video. Essentially a tighter plug gap is required for all boosted engines vs a larger gap for normally aspirated.
My 2.0t passat started misfiring after i stage 1 tuned it, but that makes sense now with your explenation, anyway going to change my sparkplugs and one of the coils
It is sometimes the coils. Sometimes the plugs and sometimes the crancase vent module. Easy test is to open the oil cap and observe excessive vacuum. Coils and plugs are maintenance items anyway. Cheers.
Thanks for the video. I own a 2007 A4 Quattro and it has a 2.0T FSI engine and it’s misfiring right now. It’s done this before and I replaced coil packs and spark plugs and it was fixed or so I thought. I’ll check the spark plug gaps on mine and hopefully that’ll save me some time and money
You're 99% correct. Yes the plug gap is important. Especially on turbo engines. That said, it's not high velocity air blowing out the spark. Spark blowout is a bit of a misnomer. Fuel and air are actually insulators. As more fuel and air are fed into the cylinder, he density of the material inside the cylinder naturally increases. This increases the insulating effect and thus more energy is required to jump the spark plug gap.
Great video - those 3 words - spark plug gap! Thank you. I have a 2008 Passat 2.0 and I was ready to sell it in 2010 while still covered under the "certified pre-owned warranty". Cylinder 1 was the most common problem I dealt with and VW fixed it 3 times under warranty. I experience higher than normal oil consummation - 1/2 - 3/4 quart between oil changes. VW told me that's normal for turbo-equipped engines. I was fed up and contacted a Lemon Law attorney and sued VW Corp. for breach of contract in the amount of 6.5K - I pocketed $4K while the attorney got his $2.5K. My engine light is on today, again, with the infamous P0301 code. I never thought to check the spark plug gap on such a well designed engine. On my way to the garage now. Many thanks, Charles.
I hope that does it for you. Good luck! The oil consumption seems normal with these too. I wouldnt be concerned with it. Mine is running strong today. 204k miles.
I had the same problem ordered a new actuator/valve for 75 bucks and it completely fixed the car! NO NEED TO BUY A BRAND NEW TURBO and pay 7k! (mine is an 07 rdx and has 176k miles)
@@AtulVerma-ir1qp So from what I've been reading a P2263 can be related to the valve for the Variable turbine flow which is what he was pointing at in this video. If you get P0234 Overboost it may be related to the wastegate which is hidden on the bottom and difficult to get to without removing the turbo. I'm getting the P0234 overboost code and had to pull the turbo to test the wastegate and vacuum lines.
I don't think this is a real fix; the error codes will come back. In this case you likely need to replace that VGT actuator (the part where the hole is worn). You might not be actually adjusting anything, the 10mm barrel moves up one threaded rod while the other end backs off another threaded rod... I'm not actually sure the distance between the two ever changes. More information and other options: This video is talking about the "VGT actuator arm" or "variable flow geometry actuator". Sometimes its hole gets worn into an egg shape, and maybe you can adjust it as seen in this video, but I suspect this won't fix the problem, and the worn part will eventually lead to full turbo failure when it breaks. There's a guy in Canada who will fabricate this part for you for about $250. You can replace it without removing the turbo, as long as you have some patience and a couple 10mm wrenches. Here's a video of that install: th-cam.com/video/H4rlQv34Mz4/w-d-xo.html Sometimes it's not just the actuator arm hole that gets worn, sometimes the linkage gets worn too. I'm not sure how to replace that. Replacing the worn actuator will help reduce the total amount of slop. One guy took a wire wrap, and wrapped it around the actuator arm and the linkage to hold them tightly together as a "temp" fix (he kept it there for 2 years... not sure how great of an idea that really is). Also, if your boost gauge seems like it just stays at 0% or 100%, check your DIAPHRAGM actuator. There's an actuator with a washer which opens/closes it, and sometimes the washer breaks off. If you weld a washer back on it'll fix that problem. If you take your car to the dealer with most of these problems, they'll say you need to replace your whole turbocharger (which is a $4k-7k job). Also, sometimes it's a bad turbo boost pressure sensor. That's under $500 to replace. Check out this forum thread for more info on all of this: acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-problems-fixes-160/p2263-turbo-problems-861782/
I have an 08 throwing p2263, p0420 and p0299 Got it at an auction today. Feels underpowered. Boost gauge moves up a little but not all the way. Also I reset the codes drive it 30 miles home. Still lack of power but I’m wondering if That is the fix. Also 250$ for a small tiny part ? That seems a little crazy if it’s the small part I’m seeing in the other video. Is there anything else I can test or check or replace cheaply just to narrow it down?
CoreyP don’t know if you fixed this, but my RDX currently has the P2263 issue, read the thread, you can get links to eBay where you can also search for the same part which can now be had for $40-$60. there is another part listed on there which I believe is the OEM turbo actuator that you can get new for around $250 or less. I mention that because you’re throwing more codes which may necessitate additional parts. Hope you got it worked out either way.
the voltage required to jump a gap increases as air pressure increases. it probably runs just fine when it's not under load, but add boost and there isn't enough voltage. at least that's what i've always heard about needing smaller gap on turbo engines.
why do americans insist on talking incessantly at the start of their videos. people just wanna see the fix, not hear you talking about shit. this video fucking sucks
I was actually looking into picking one of these up ,but was unsure about this because it's a new engine for these year RDX I always shy away from the new year models, and am typically in favor of getting a model a few years after because of part revisions and normally mid year models might have less annoying problems.
Grant Gundlach also, my car has nearly 200k miles on it and uses ~1 quart of oil every couple thousand miles. It has not gotten worse and is acceptable to me. Keep in mind that turbocharged engines operate under higher pressures than naturally aspirated and will have a tendency to use more oil. As far as I'm concerned that is a price for higher performance and not necessarily a concern as long as it is not getting worse. Keep in mind that the oil lost can come from several other areas in these engines aside from worn piston rings and is not necessarily a sign of poor engine health.
As mentioned in a couple of the comments, some of my terminology is a bit off regarding components on this vehicle as this was my first experience with this vehicle. The fix seemed solid. My buddy sold the car a few months after this video was made and had no further issues with it.
Thanks for the tip. I have the same turbo overboost error code. Of course the dealer says to replace the entire turbo. NO THANKS! And yes my wastegate valve is sticking. Did you notice when you accelerate the car jolts (built up air pressure) and then the SH-AWD and check engine lights would appear? This is the current behavior of my car now. I will have my guy perform this and provide an update.
I get jolts and lurches but not when I accelerate... the jolting/lurching I get happens when it's down-shifting and my foot is *not* on the gas, OR the brake - any updates from your fix?
Jimmy Ng , for mine the check engine comes on some times when the turbo kicks in with the Emissions code and some time the awd , I changed the air filter checked for possible air leak and cleaned the intercooler , no luck here ... the dealer charges me 3k for refurbished/used turbo and 7k for new
Great video but that is not a wastegate actuator you are pointing to. The wastegate actuator and rod is sandwiched between the cylinder head and compressor/turbine housing and cannot be seen in the video. The RDX uses a Variable Turbine Geometry turbo which includes a PCM controlled wastegate and a PCM controlled variable flow geometry actuator. The actuator you were pointing to in this video is the variable flow geometry actuator, it's job is to reduce spool time and speed up boost response in low and high RPM's. Think of it as a IMRC Acura uses on their intake manifolds to increase torque in low RPM's and horsepower in high.
Sir: I have a Paxton supercharged 340 Duster. Major psi leak discovered via the power brake booster!! This hose needs to be pulled off of the base and plug with a carb nipple. Good presentation. We put on a spread board 800 dual feed double pumper distributor timing was the same as unblown didn't need to change the advance curb
Would realy like to know how the mod works for power valve. I dont see how you could segregate it from vacume to work soley on boost. The way those work is on or off. Vac=off /0 vac (or +pressure) on. And the chamber must be sealed to hold either. I have done alot of "boost reference " pv's for supercharged carbs but would like to learn more.
Hi, did you permanently solve the P2633 issue with this RDX?
I couldn’t get the clip on do y’all think I’ll be fine?
Have the exact same car. Problem is these engines are oil burners. Buy the spark plug + coil kit from ECS Tuning and replace them once. Everytime it starts misfiring just remove them and clean both plugs and coils with electrical cleaner. Problem solved. Been doing this for 80k miles and still solves this issue.
Worst spelling I’ve ever seen my dear child
Bruh poor predator
!aaaa
Can I be the next?
I've owned 3 RDXs, but after being told it will cost $9,500 to replace the turbo because of this stupid little problem I will NEVER buy another RDX.
????????
Hey man I have 2011 Volkswagen cc 2.0t and it’s misfiring I have changed the coil and spark plugs and the evap line misfire and it’s still misfiring
reduce spark plug gap to .020" and give that a shot
hi there, this is the code I got from car diagnostic scanner because I got the check engine light appear in my 2007 acura rdx. I'm not a mechanic but how much would a mechanic charge fix this problem?
0.30" cool. Thanks
Large spark plug gaps cause high current demand and higher wear on coil packs until failure or poor performance. New coil packs can disguise badly gapped plugs hence the problem seems to go away and then comes back. If a coil pack fails then you must ask why before installing another one that may also fail soon. Thanks for the video. Essentially a tighter plug gap is required for all boosted engines vs a larger gap for normally aspirated.
You turn it clockwise or counter?
I dont remember which way. You wont have to turn it far one way or the other and you will know if it is correct
@@Supercrewchief got it in. just needed some wd40
Thank you, Henry! This video is helpful and presented very properly.
Where did you get the part from
My 2.0t passat started misfiring after i stage 1 tuned it, but that makes sense now with your explenation, anyway going to change my sparkplugs and one of the coils
Time and money pit turbo 😂
It is sometimes the coils. Sometimes the plugs and sometimes the crancase vent module. Easy test is to open the oil cap and observe excessive vacuum. Coils and plugs are maintenance items anyway. Cheers.
I do have suction coming from my oil cap and dipstick, could this be that module ?
What fuel pump
Magnafuel 750 now. Was a walbro 255 or something then
@@Supercrewchief how you like it?
Stop buying cheap coils and spark plugs and this will stop lol
So how do you gap the spark plug? Sorry I missed the video. I have my VW Mk6 and it has alot of misfires especially when I clock past 3000 RPM
Hello! Pretty simple, but would be best for you to watch a youtube video on how to do it.
Thanks for the video. I own a 2007 A4 Quattro and it has a 2.0T FSI engine and it’s misfiring right now. It’s done this before and I replaced coil packs and spark plugs and it was fixed or so I thought. I’ll check the spark plug gaps on mine and hopefully that’ll save me some time and money
Dink water
9000.00$ quote here in Massachusetts for turbo at dealer
You're 99% correct. Yes the plug gap is important. Especially on turbo engines. That said, it's not high velocity air blowing out the spark. Spark blowout is a bit of a misnomer. Fuel and air are actually insulators. As more fuel and air are fed into the cylinder, he density of the material inside the cylinder naturally increases. This increases the insulating effect and thus more energy is required to jump the spark plug gap.
Ah! Makes sense... Thank you!
ebay 49389-18470 U.S.A.
Wear i can get.The part
Dunno. I didn't buy one.
Great video - those 3 words - spark plug gap! Thank you. I have a 2008 Passat 2.0 and I was ready to sell it in 2010 while still covered under the "certified pre-owned warranty". Cylinder 1 was the most common problem I dealt with and VW fixed it 3 times under warranty. I experience higher than normal oil consummation - 1/2 - 3/4 quart between oil changes. VW told me that's normal for turbo-equipped engines. I was fed up and contacted a Lemon Law attorney and sued VW Corp. for breach of contract in the amount of 6.5K - I pocketed $4K while the attorney got his $2.5K. My engine light is on today, again, with the infamous P0301 code. I never thought to check the spark plug gap on such a well designed engine. On my way to the garage now. Many thanks, Charles.
I hope that does it for you. Good luck! The oil consumption seems normal with these too. I wouldnt be concerned with it. Mine is running strong today. 204k miles.
Tried this fix, was able to remove the play in it but check engine cam back after 45 miles.
So what gap did. U gap it at sorry if I missed it in your video.
I had the same problem ordered a new actuator/valve for 75 bucks and it completely fixed the car! NO NEED TO BUY A BRAND NEW TURBO and pay 7k! (mine is an 07 rdx and has 176k miles)
Where did you end up ordering a new actuator/valve?
wakawu had a junkyard pull it from a wrecked rdx!
Mr Lopez, did you change the wastegate control valve and actuator?
@@AtulVerma-ir1qp So from what I've been reading a P2263 can be related to the valve for the Variable turbine flow which is what he was pointing at in this video. If you get P0234 Overboost it may be related to the wastegate which is hidden on the bottom and difficult to get to without removing the turbo. I'm getting the P0234 overboost code and had to pull the turbo to test the wastegate and vacuum lines.
@@wakawu what did you find after you pulled the turbo thanks?
Hi where did you get the wastegate actuator?
I don't think this is a real fix; the error codes will come back. In this case you likely need to replace that VGT actuator (the part where the hole is worn). You might not be actually adjusting anything, the 10mm barrel moves up one threaded rod while the other end backs off another threaded rod... I'm not actually sure the distance between the two ever changes. More information and other options: This video is talking about the "VGT actuator arm" or "variable flow geometry actuator". Sometimes its hole gets worn into an egg shape, and maybe you can adjust it as seen in this video, but I suspect this won't fix the problem, and the worn part will eventually lead to full turbo failure when it breaks. There's a guy in Canada who will fabricate this part for you for about $250. You can replace it without removing the turbo, as long as you have some patience and a couple 10mm wrenches. Here's a video of that install: th-cam.com/video/H4rlQv34Mz4/w-d-xo.html Sometimes it's not just the actuator arm hole that gets worn, sometimes the linkage gets worn too. I'm not sure how to replace that. Replacing the worn actuator will help reduce the total amount of slop. One guy took a wire wrap, and wrapped it around the actuator arm and the linkage to hold them tightly together as a "temp" fix (he kept it there for 2 years... not sure how great of an idea that really is). Also, if your boost gauge seems like it just stays at 0% or 100%, check your DIAPHRAGM actuator. There's an actuator with a washer which opens/closes it, and sometimes the washer breaks off. If you weld a washer back on it'll fix that problem. If you take your car to the dealer with most of these problems, they'll say you need to replace your whole turbocharger (which is a $4k-7k job). Also, sometimes it's a bad turbo boost pressure sensor. That's under $500 to replace. Check out this forum thread for more info on all of this: acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-problems-fixes-160/p2263-turbo-problems-861782/
I have an 08 throwing p2263, p0420 and p0299 Got it at an auction today. Feels underpowered. Boost gauge moves up a little but not all the way. Also I reset the codes drive it 30 miles home. Still lack of power but I’m wondering if That is the fix. Also 250$ for a small tiny part ? That seems a little crazy if it’s the small part I’m seeing in the other video. Is there anything else I can test or check or replace cheaply just to narrow it down?
CoreyP don’t know if you fixed this, but my RDX currently has the P2263 issue, read the thread, you can get links to eBay where you can also search for the same part which can now be had for $40-$60. there is another part listed on there which I believe is the OEM turbo actuator that you can get new for around $250 or less. I mention that because you’re throwing more codes which may necessitate additional parts. Hope you got it worked out either way.
the voltage required to jump a gap increases as air pressure increases. it probably runs just fine when it's not under load, but add boost and there isn't enough voltage. at least that's what i've always heard about needing smaller gap on turbo engines.
Interesting. I had no idea. I wonder if air velocity has an effect as well.
Ok
did you get it? what size squirters are you using ?im putting together a twin turbo c4 vette and will be tuning a 750 dp . blow through
why do americans insist on talking incessantly at the start of their videos. people just wanna see the fix, not hear you talking about shit. this video fucking sucks
I was actually looking into picking one of these up ,but was unsure about this because it's a new engine for these year RDX I always shy away from the new year models, and am typically in favor of getting a model a few years after because of part revisions and normally mid year models might have less annoying problems.
Thanks for the insight. I just picked up a 2006 Passat 2.0. Looks like the same engine. We're you experiencing oil loss with this problem?
Grant Gundlach I did have oil loss but was unrelated to this problem. My oil lost was due to a faulty PCV valve.
Grant Gundlach also, my car has nearly 200k miles on it and uses ~1 quart of oil every couple thousand miles. It has not gotten worse and is acceptable to me. Keep in mind that turbocharged engines operate under higher pressures than naturally aspirated and will have a tendency to use more oil. As far as I'm concerned that is a price for higher performance and not necessarily a concern as long as it is not getting worse. Keep in mind that the oil lost can come from several other areas in these engines aside from worn piston rings and is not necessarily a sign of poor engine health.
@@Supercrewchief 30 thousands of an inch okay thank you
are these cars reliable?
Very , it's from honda , but you need to know what you doing .
Wastegate Actuator is operated by Boost Pressure NOT Vacuum!
Hi where did you find the wastegate actuator?
As mentioned in a couple of the comments, some of my terminology is a bit off regarding components on this vehicle as this was my first experience with this vehicle. The fix seemed solid. My buddy sold the car a few months after this video was made and had no further issues with it.
Did you have to remove the turbo or use any special tools to adult waste gate on the rdx turbo?
Adjust
Thanks for the tip. I have the same turbo overboost error code. Of course the dealer says to replace the entire turbo. NO THANKS! And yes my wastegate valve is sticking. Did you notice when you accelerate the car jolts (built up air pressure) and then the SH-AWD and check engine lights would appear? This is the current behavior of my car now. I will have my guy perform this and provide an update.
Theavy Horn this one didn't jolt. May not have been as out of adjustment as yours might be. Good luck Hope you get it fixed quick and cheap!
same problem here
I get jolts and lurches but not when I accelerate... the jolting/lurching I get happens when it's down-shifting and my foot is *not* on the gas, OR the brake - any updates from your fix?
Jimmy Ng , for mine the check engine comes on some times when the turbo kicks in with the Emissions code and some time the awd , I changed the air filter checked for possible air leak and cleaned the intercooler , no luck here ... the dealer charges me 3k for refurbished/used turbo and 7k for new
Any update @Theavy Horn? Mine is doing the same as yours. Thank you!
Did you open up restrictors on primary power valve, I opened mine to 5/64 and I also have boost referenced power valve
Sam Zweber I didn't open them on this one. Had plenty of fuel under boost.
Great video but that is not a wastegate actuator you are pointing to. The wastegate actuator and rod is sandwiched between the cylinder head and compressor/turbine housing and cannot be seen in the video. The RDX uses a Variable Turbine Geometry turbo which includes a PCM controlled wastegate and a PCM controlled variable flow geometry actuator. The actuator you were pointing to in this video is the variable flow geometry actuator, it's job is to reduce spool time and speed up boost response in low and high RPM's. Think of it as a IMRC Acura uses on their intake manifolds to increase torque in low RPM's and horsepower in high.
mike roy I can confirm this. This comment is 100% accurate. Furthermore it isn’t vacuum controlled, it is pressure controlled.
Ahhh! Makes sense... First experience with one of these.
Speak up next time you make a video you mute asscock.
Mike Feur I hope this vid helped you ya asshat!
Mike Feur oh and will do.
Sir: I have a Paxton supercharged 340 Duster. Major psi leak discovered via the power brake booster!! This hose needs to be pulled off of the base and plug with a carb nipple. Good presentation. We put on a spread board 800 dual feed double pumper distributor timing was the same as unblown didn't need to change the advance curb
PPaco N. Martinez-Garoutte Sounds like an awesome setup! Thanks for the tip. Think i will get a vaccuum canister with check valve for brakes
Would realy like to know how the mod works for power valve. I dont see how you could segregate it from vacume to work soley on boost. The way those work is on or off. Vac=off /0 vac (or +pressure) on. And the chamber must be sealed to hold either. I have done alot of "boost reference " pv's for supercharged carbs but would like to learn more.
what wideband o2 kit are you running?
Bobby S AEM kit
What size are your rally sport rims?
David Gonzalez 15 x 8 or 8.5. Not exactly sure on the width
hi, I'm running a similar setup. I wanted to know how is the distributor timing set? any advance curbs?
John Connor it has an LS1 with turbos in it now. The dizzy was locked in this setup.