Thanks a lot, removed my air filter cover on my Toyota Land cruiser, to check the rubber seal, and found my diesel sensor disconnected. Pushed it back in, closed the filter cover, and it solved 2 problems in one go: the engine light turned off, and my diesel gouge stopped giving false reading of low fuel. Again, many thanks, Big Like from Israel.
I have a 2005 Ford 500 Limited that's been meticulously maintained. My "Check Engine" light recently came on and the problem was the gas cap. Be advised the light WILL NOT go off immediately. It will take a couple of cold starts to reset. Thanks man!!
Did it just come on and stay on or did it come on flashing? Mine just happened tonight but I also thought after watching this video it’s could be my gas cap as well, since the other day I started my car and I smelled kind of strong gas and could not figure out why but did go get gas a couple days or a day prior.
@@rachelaimer6284 If the check engine light is flashing it definitely isn't the gas cap. That means it's something that needs immediate attention and you should stop driving. It could be you have a misfire if you smell gas. Misfires are when the spark plug in one or more of your cylinders isn't sparking to ignite the fuel/air mixture. This could be caused by a bad plug(s), a bad coil pack(s), clogged fuel injector(s) a bad signal from your ECM. The best thing to do is have it scanned. That will show you the error code that caused the check engine light to come on. Just remember, that only shows you where to start looking. You might pull a P0171 Fuel Trims are Lean. There are a few reasons why this could be. An 02 sensor might trigger it. You DO NOT want to just replace that sensor because there are other reasons that cause a GOOD sensor to send an error code. So many people do this. Then they reset the check engine light after replacing the part only to have it come back on in two days. Remember, it's just a code to let you know what to look at and narrow down the problem so you know you've got it. Vacuum leaks, a bad or dirty MAF sensor, tons of things can be off to trip that light. But...if it's flashing it's warning you that the problem is not good to keep driving. You could do permanent damage to you engine. You can buy a cheap scanner for about $20. More advanced ones run more. But a simple code reader is fairly cheap. I bought one for $20 that gives me the code and live engine data via Bluetooth to my Android. I can look at long and short term fuel trims, (very important on diagnosing how your car is running), misfire codes, 02 sensor readings, Catalytic converter temps. Remember, your cars ECM will make adjustments to things like fuel/air mixture to keep a 14.7/1 air to fuel ratio in your engine. So even though your car is running great you might still have a problem. You just don't know it yet because the sensors haven't hit the max to trip a code and have the check engine light turn on. If you notice your gas mileage has gotten terrible, you smell gas in the exhaust, these are signs that the ECM is making adjustments because something is off. The car will still run great but there's a problem. A vacuum leak after your Mass Air Flow Sensor is allowing un-monitored air into your intake throwing off that 14.7/1 air ratio your engine and ECM want. The ECM doesn't KNOW there's a vacuum leak. It just knows that there is more air than fuel. So, the ECM will send MORE GAS to your cylinders making your fuel trims go crazy. If they hit a max you'll get a P0171 code. Fuel Injection System Too Lean Bank 1 (or 2 if you have a V-6 or V-8). Most likely a loose vacuum hose, Dirty MAF Sensor or even a Dirty Air Cleaner. I know there is a lot of info here and you might not understand most of it. But a sensor code doesn't necessarily mean that sensor is bad. In fact most of the time it doesn't. So my point was to just save you money buying parts you DON'T NEED. You can email me if you have any questions. I'm happy to help anyone save money from rip off auto parts stores that WILL TELL YOU to buy this or that. They are WRONG 90% of the time. I hope this helps you. Feel free to ask any questions you have any.
@@RickyPisano Hi thank you! I do have one more and your response was actually very helpful and anything I didn’t know I just googled to find out so no biggie. When I started it up this morning the light did not appear. Could it be possible that it came on as warning? It is winter and there was a snow storm and I don’t think my grandfather pulled my car in his driveway after letting it warm up, I believe he just started it up and went to park it and then it shut off on him and he floored my gas pretty ruff to get it from the end of his driveway. I will still check as I had no time to do it in the mist of already having so much to do to add on to this. I’m hoping it was just a warning to not do that again or if not something very minor that can be fixed.
@@rachelaimer6284 If it went off and it's running OK then you should be fine. Keep an eye on your gas mileage and if the engine runs smooth. Like it normally does. If something is off the light will come on again. It may have been a very temporary low oil pressure signal because of the cold. That would be my guess by what you described. I wouldn't worry about it if the light went off on it's own. Something like a loose gas cap that triggers it will usually turn back off after a couple of cold starts once it's tightened. No biggie. I think you'll be fine. The newer engines post 2005 or so don't need to be warmed up. They have thinner, usually synthetic oil like 5W20 and when cold the ECU automatically runs the engine rich (open loop) until it's warm and hits operating temp and the O2 sensors kick in (Closed Loop). Then the air/fuel mixture is automatically adjusted by those readings. The old carbonated V-8's, Slant/straight 6's and 4 cylinders had way thicker oil like 10W40 and it would get like molasses in very cold weather and had to be warmed up to pump through the engine effectively. The Choke on the old carburetors would be open to make the engine idle higher on those engines and you actually had a "gas pedal". On these newer ECM controlled engines you don't. The pedal you press is actually an "air pedal" that opens and closes the flap on the Throttle body to allow more or less AIR into the engine as the ECM is in full control of your fuel that enters the engine based on the amount of air entering it at different speeds and RPMs. The air coming in is measured by the Mass Air Flow Sensor or MAF positioned in front of the throttle body to maintain that 14.7/1 air to fuel ratio. I still let my 2005 V-6 warm up a bit though before I put it in gear and take off. I still think it's a good idea to do that when it's really cold out to make sure oil pressure is ok and no warning lights stay on. I think you'll be fine though as long as the light is off and the engine is running like it normally does. I hope this helps you.
Thank you so much for this. I was on my way to collect my Grandchildren from school, tried the petrol cap tip & the light went off! Thanks again, saved me the trouble & money of going to the mechanic. Sincerely & so grateful Joan
Hi and thanks for watching! Yep, we live in the countryside, that's the reason. Interferes a bit with the video but I hope people don't mind :-) All the best to you!
Thank you for this video. What I don't like about a franchise shop like the one I went to diagnose my issue, they always recommend to change to new parts vs cleaning it first. That would not be a good place to go so now I realize those small independent shops would do a better job. Never have them replace the part until they've look at everything and do the cleaning up under the hood. I have an engine check light again after 2 years now. The first time my O2 sensor was changed but it did not help, the shop had no idea. Finally we checked out the air intake and that was cleaned. It did the trick as I looked up the obd2 code online to find other areas of concern.
Well you sir are my savour , i was a 100 miles from home in my campervan when the dreaded light came on, reading in the manual it said it was the catalytic converter and drive to the nearest garage at 40 miles an hour?? I contacted the vw transporter site and there advise me to put my boot down to clear it ??? Be confused i stubbled onto your video , wow couldnt believe it but I tighten my fuel cap problem solved light went straight out , thank you so much 👍👍👍👌
Hi David and thanks for watching! You're right the present system has a lot of flaws and is sometimes unreliable, even to the point that some good old thinking and old-school problem-solving does a better job. Perhaps someday a car will have some sort of its own self-diagnostic system which will give more precise information. All the best to you!
They don’t have a censor that tell you what’s wrong because there’s no money on that if you know the problem then they won’t b able to charge u 500 dollars to tell you there’s something wrong and if u wanna know what it is it’s another 300 dollars and if u wanna fix it then it’s half the cars actuall price
Thank you for this video my Fiat had an engine warning light and saying start/stop not available and my car wasn't getting much power and cut out on me, my mechanic has found it was a loose air hose to the engine, cross fingers the problem has been sorted
You don’t have to replace or clean O2 Sensors all the time sometimes you can clean them by using high quality fuel and when you have a chance put your foot down and it cleans them out I did it on the last car I had I got over 100.000 Kay’s and the cod didn’t come back
I just cleaned my petrol cap and top of the petrol tank with WD40 and the light went away. Thank you for your help! I do think that providing the car is running well this isn't something to be worried about too much. Although I am glad this has now gone!
Number 1 gas cap typically P0455 or P0456 with message fuel canister / evap being a bad seal I totally agree. I have resolved several of these. Usually the fill neck has started to rust preventing a good seal. A few rubs on the rust with sand paper followed by a bit of grease (Vaseline in a pinch) on the corroded surface will resolve.
I have the light on my mazda 2006 tribute with 90K miles The mechanics said its the air to fuel ratio and are quoting $3,000 to fix a list of different problems lol
What happened to me the other day the car spitting and sputtering all of a sudden and I pulled over and stole that check engine light came on I waited a couple minutes to start it up but the transmission wouldn't shift to the second gear where do you think that would be a Somerset throttle control valve
Had my light on so I called AA (UK breakdown cover) diagnosed it and it turns out it's the Transmission Control Unit, however the car drives absolutely fine and no loss of power, the light went off itself within an hour as well, the car is Mitsubishi Colt diesel semi automatic. The AA man said its just a minor fault and just leave it and keep driving the car as long as it drives fine and there's no loss of power. We only had bought the car so we're not going to be overly concerned at the minute and hoping the light doesn't come on again lol.
Hi and thanks for watching the video! I think that the AA man gave you some good advice. The check engine light is notorious for coming up for minor faults like weak electric connections, loose hose clamps or other while the codes show more serious problems. Anyway, drive the car until the check engine light comes up more often or more serious symptoms appear. Just pay some extra attention in the meantime. Otherwise, you could just end up spending money and replacing parts that maybe don't need to be replaced. This is all from experience, btw. All the best to you and hope the light doesn't come up again :-)
Same exact thing happened to me. My check Engine light came on. Scanned with scan tool. Pulled 2 codes. One was gas cap. The other was bad battery connection. I was just about to get it fixed and the light went off. Drives, idles fine. No power loss.
So my new Hyundai i20 started showing that light on, garage schedules but engine power is clearly limited... and it sounds like a paper on the wind sometimes, weird stuff... wonder if you could give some light on a possible issue.
Hi and thanks for watching! To be honest, it's hard to say with this information but it probably loses power since it goes into limp mode when the check engine light goes on. Regarding the sound, I would first check if everything on the air intake is OK and properly set and tightened. Especially do this if there was recent maintenance done. Hyundai is a good and well-built car and I doubt that something serious is wrong. Hope this helps.
This is a great video! Ive gone through all these except change 2 of my 02 sensors and clean the catal converter after taking my 2007 wm statesman to a mechanic without a resolution. The odbc gives off the p01010 (code that refers to the maf sensor..) unfortunately replacing with a new bosch one still didn't resolve it.. I may have that odbc code wrong above but it was for the maf... if the mechanic who is over 30 years qualified can't resolve im not sure what else I can try :(
I have paid $918.10 at one shop, engine light back on next day, took another shop, paid $141.00, engine light back on, called mobile mechanic paid $100, check engine light back on, took to another shop paid $749.04, check engine light back on, they Firestone said bring back Tuesday morning see what else they need to do... they said need to reset the memory so that can pass inspection.... SMH ... 2008 DTS
Hi and thanks for watching the video! My goodness, that's a truckload of money :-(. The check engine light is known to be a money pit problem. One of the points of the video was to try and give a hint to avoid such expenses. Lots of times the error code is induced by other systems and parts that the error code doesn't show. Hence the constant unneeded replacament of parts: an expensive system of elimination that comes from the owner's pocket. This writing won't help a bit to solve your problem but at least ask the next people that come to exactly pinpoint the problem and stand behind their words. Best of luck with the repair.
Very well explained, I have 2004 VW Polo, 1.4L petrol engine. OBD code shows MAF sensor. Replaced it, but Check Engine light keeps coming back on, with same code. Will try to check Gas Cap, and Air Intake box. Thank You
I found that sometimes when the car has some age on it, the computer system can go a bit haywire. Try this, it worked for my 2004 Pontiac Vibe. Disconnect completely, your battery, then turn your light switch on, wait 5 minutes, reconnect battery, then turn off lights. This resets the computer, in most cases. We do the same thing to our cell phones. Try this, it may remedy the check engine light. Get a portable scanner, plug it under driver's dash, and scan for codes, find what they mean, and go from there. Could be: 1: Faulty gas cap 2: O2 sensor 3: Mass air flow Just suggestions. 👍ALOHA
Hi and thanks for watching! If you're talking about the temperature sensor, yes it will, it's a common fault on VW group cars of that era. We're making a video soon just about that.
Hi and thanks for watching the video! If Scotty says so, then it's the truth :-). Big fan of his. In fact, I think he's totally right. Trying to solve a check engine problem without a real symptom can end up in spending lots of money and time on repairs only to achieve nothing. Best regards to you!
Once I have changed the Gearbox, this engine check light getting ON in red color. It is only appears when I travel to 5 or 6km continuously. If I stop the engine and start again, the indicator getting OFF. What may be the issue? Please advice me
I’ve got the warning light come up on my car.On inspection I’ve got oil on the spark plugs and coil packs on two out of the four cylinders.Sounds like the value gasket needs replacing.Would these cause the light to come on ?
Thanks for this informative video. In my car the coolant warning symbol came on, I let it rest and drove to my nearest destination and the check engine light came on. Took it the garage and they poured water in the radiator and but the light is still on. What would be the next best course of action?
so i just done my AC flushing service two days ago. but after tha i noticed that my throttle is a lil bit stuttering. and suddenly the check engine light is on steadily. please help me
Mine was on and later battery died. Now I changed the battery the engine light is off. I also suspect my gas cap but will monitor it for now if it comes back wil change the gas cap
The check engine light only came ON after I had changed the battery. How do you reset this? Should I remove the ground cable of the battery for 1min and reconnect to see if it goes away? Please advice. Thanks
Hi Dominga and thanks for watching! Yes, you can try to do that. When you take off the battery terminal, also press the horn to discharge the system totally. Keep the door or window open just in case, so you have access to the passenger cabin. If this doesn't work, then using an OBD tool is the next best thing. Hope this helps. Don't know why it showed up after the battery replacement, it shouldn't be that way. .
My check engine light keeps coming on because what the service desk manager at Pep boys told me it's because of condensation/moisture building up in the system. Could you please explain this and what is the solution to prevent or resolve this issue with condensation build up in order to prevent the check engine light keep coming on? I have a 2013 Chevy Equinox SUV
Just putting it out there.... My Management light came on. I felt sick to say the least. Had it reset and it came on AGAIN the next day. Turned out to be my petrol filter. Phew ! Car is running like a dream and no light. Its been 2 weeks 😊
Hi, and thanks for watching! It depends on the car model but sometimes yes, it can. However, like on the Skoda for instance, there is a separate warning light for that.
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a question, but maybe it's a stupid one. When I put the key in and I can see that all warning lights appear, then disappear one-by-one, except one (light engine), but that also disappears when I start the engine, is that a problem or not?
My engine light came on, my radiator needle went straight up to the top and we heard a rattling noise. The water and oil was fine. I've just checked my petrol cap and that is all good. My husband put coolant in the radiator (not much) The next day, the engine light was off and the radiator needle was normal. Do you know what my problem could be?
Hi and thanks for watching! There could be a couple of reasons, if the rattling sound is still present when the engine is running check when the water pump was last replaced. Also, check the coolant fan radiator. Hope this helps.
Thanks for your guidance. I resolved my ‘Engine Check Light” problem by removing earth terminal of battery for one minute, pressing horn and then re-fixing the battery terminal. Check light gone. Thanks again
What mean when the check engine apear only before starting the engline ...all light disapear and engine stays...but after starting the engine the light disapear and never go on again during drive . Even my manual dosnt telling me much ...only says malfunction .... I dont know if i have to change fuel filter ... i been to the service for water pump CHANGE and drived only 1500 miles / 2 month ago and the full check done on the service was OK ...
Hi there I have a massive problem my Toyota 4zz manual. It's keeps having a very slow delay with clutching and slow in taking off. Infact is it has power loss when driving uphill and engine light is forever on.
Good morning what you think could be the problem... when the car is used for long . I get trouble accelerating anything over 60 the engine light comes on and it goes down I literally have to use my toe to drive to accelerate very very slow and try and keep it at 60
Hi and thanks for watching! It could be lots of things. If you want to solve the problem you'll have to hook up an OBD tool and get an error code. Depending on the engine and the car model, It could be a dirty throttle body, a bad MAF sensor and the list goes on.
Hi, and thanks for watching! The best way to find out is to connect an OBD tool and get an error code. You can also check for basic problems like the gas tank cap or minor air leaks. Those are very well-built cars, so hopefully it shouldn't be a big problem 🙂
Hello, I got a Toyota D-Cat and the engine light is on, but also the vsc and trac light. When this happens, the car loses ALOT of power and can after a while reach 80 km/h. We have scanned the car and got one code, P0400. We have checked almost everything, air filter, MAF sensor, 02 sensor, swapped EGR but with no success. Have any tips on what to do before we send it in to a mechanic? Thank you for a great video anyways!
Hi Tim thanks for the kind words and for watching! You've checked more or less everything. I would check once more for an air leak (like punctured hoses, loose clamps, or else). Sorry for the late reply and hope this helps.
@@DespairRepair I'm not too sure but a mechanic has told me my exhaust needs replacing couple days after I experienced this. Would any type of exhaust problem cause the engine light and traction control to come on while the car shakes? Appreciate the reply.
@@latenightsurvivors18 a check engine light (regarding the exhaust)appears, in most cases, due to clogged filters (like the DPF for instance) or a clogged catalytic converter. The main reason is a clog in the system which impacts how the engine runs. But if the exhaust is only punctured or in any other way physically damaged (or rusty) then those symptoms shouldn't appear. I didn't ask, what's the car?
All my car needed replacing my brake pads! Problem solved, Engine light went off, and hasn’t came back on, I can’t believe this man didn’t know your brake pads could be worn. Bought my car brand new, only had 34 thousand miles on it, when the engine light came on. The rotors, and drums were fine.
Hi i have a question.. i have the BMW M3 COMPETITION and when i just start ignition not the motor all the warning lights illuminate and disappear except for the engine light. But when i start the motor press 2x the ignition button its all off no warnings car status ok etc. Is this normal at bmws?
Hi and thanks for watching! First of all, congrats on the car, very nice piece of machinery. Regarding the check engine light, best connect an OBD tool and see if there are any errors, just in case. It might be just an electronic glitch of some sort but check it out.
Hi my car have same issue 2012 VW jetta.. battery already dead i hope this is the issue. However I check with OBD showing plug 3 misfire and engine pressure is low. What should I do Could you help me....
My check light comes on just for fun. About once a month it happens. I simply turn the engine off momentarily and when I restart, its off again until next month!😀
@despair repair if the fuel cap is loose or broken so air can get in will the van jolt when started up or turned off? Because I’ve just bought a used transit and the engine light is on and I’ve just noticed the fuel cap is broken 🙄🤦🏻♂️so I’m ordering a brand new one can the engine sort itself out once there’s a brand new fuel cap and a air tight seal is made or will it require further maintenance?
@@DespairRepair the engine doesn’t jolt I perhaps worded that wrongly 🤔let me try again when I start the engine it struggles for a second to start and at the second it’s as if the whole engine is moving to the point it wants to explode but once it’s running it’s fine and settles down to normal and the same thing happens when turning the engine off it kind of rattles and shakes slightly when coming to a standstill
Sir, my engine, oil, and battery light gets on while switch on. And instantly all dessapears after the ignition. Its like that since i bought the hilux from toyota showroom.
Thanks a lot, removed my air filter cover on my Toyota Land cruiser, to check the rubber seal, and found my diesel sensor disconnected. Pushed it back in, closed the filter cover, and it solved 2 problems in one go: the engine light turned off, and my diesel gouge stopped giving false reading of low fuel.
Again, many thanks, Big Like from Israel.
Hi, you're welcome and glad the video helped! Thanks for watching and all the best to you :-)
Light on today. Straight to youtube ! Thank you. Best video here on this issue
You're welcome and thanks for watching! 🙂
Excellent presentation. Spoken clearly without shouting!
Thank you very much for the kind words and thanks for watching!
Thank you so much - sensor light was all due to the fuel cap. In the past I have been quoted thousands to fix this same issue.
did chek engine light go off emidietly after you change gas cap? and on which car?
@@jaskosijaric4021 Kodiaq & no it didn't go off immediately. After a few cold starts.
I have a 2005 Ford 500 Limited that's been meticulously maintained. My "Check Engine" light recently came on and the problem was the gas cap. Be advised the light WILL NOT go off immediately. It will take a couple of cold starts to reset. Thanks man!!
Your welcome and glad the video helped!
You're right, in most cars that's the situation. Thanks for the contribution and all the best to you! :-)
Did it just come on and stay on or did it come on flashing? Mine just happened tonight but I also thought after watching this video it’s could be my gas cap as well, since the other day I started my car and I smelled kind of strong gas and could not figure out why but did go get gas a couple days or a day prior.
@@rachelaimer6284 If the check engine light is flashing it definitely isn't the gas cap. That means it's something that needs immediate attention and you should stop driving. It could be you have a misfire if you smell gas. Misfires are when the spark plug in one or more of your cylinders isn't sparking to ignite the fuel/air mixture. This could be caused by a bad plug(s), a bad coil pack(s), clogged fuel injector(s) a bad signal from your ECM. The best thing to do is have it scanned. That will show you the error code that caused the check engine light to come on. Just remember, that only shows you where to start looking. You might pull a P0171 Fuel Trims are Lean. There are a few reasons why this could be. An 02 sensor might trigger it. You DO NOT want to just replace that sensor because there are other reasons that cause a GOOD sensor to send an error code. So many people do this. Then they reset the check engine light after replacing the part only to have it come back on in two days. Remember, it's just a code to let you know what to look at and narrow down the problem so you know you've got it. Vacuum leaks, a bad or dirty MAF sensor, tons of things can be off to trip that light. But...if it's flashing it's warning you that the problem is not good to keep driving. You could do permanent damage to you engine. You can buy a cheap scanner for about $20. More advanced ones run more. But a simple code reader is fairly cheap. I bought one for $20 that gives me the code and live engine data via Bluetooth to my Android. I can look at long and short term fuel trims, (very important on diagnosing how your car is running), misfire codes, 02 sensor readings, Catalytic converter temps. Remember, your cars ECM will make adjustments to things like fuel/air mixture to keep a 14.7/1 air to fuel ratio in your engine. So even though your car is running great you might still have a problem. You just don't know it yet because the sensors haven't hit the max to trip a code and have the check engine light turn on. If you notice your gas mileage has gotten terrible, you smell gas in the exhaust, these are signs that the ECM is making adjustments because something is off. The car will still run great but there's a problem. A vacuum leak after your Mass Air Flow Sensor is allowing un-monitored air into your intake throwing off that 14.7/1 air ratio your engine and ECM want. The ECM doesn't KNOW there's a vacuum leak. It just knows that there is more air than fuel. So, the ECM will send MORE GAS to your cylinders making your fuel trims go crazy. If they hit a max you'll get a P0171 code. Fuel Injection System Too Lean Bank 1 (or 2 if you have a V-6 or V-8). Most likely a loose vacuum hose, Dirty MAF Sensor or even a Dirty Air Cleaner. I know there is a lot of info here and you might not understand most of it. But a sensor code doesn't necessarily mean that sensor is bad. In fact most of the time it doesn't. So my point was to just save you money buying parts you DON'T NEED. You can email me if you have any questions. I'm happy to help anyone save money from rip off auto parts stores that WILL TELL YOU to buy this or that. They are WRONG 90% of the time. I hope this helps you. Feel free to ask any questions you have any.
@@RickyPisano Hi thank you! I do have one more and your response was actually very helpful and anything I didn’t know I just googled to find out so no biggie. When I started it up this morning the light did not appear. Could it be possible that it came on as warning? It is winter and there was a snow storm and I don’t think my grandfather pulled my car in his driveway after letting it warm up, I believe he just started it up and went to park it and then it shut off on him and he floored my gas pretty ruff to get it from the end of his driveway. I will still check as I had no time to do it in the mist of already having so much to do to add on to this. I’m hoping it was just a warning to not do that again or if not something very minor that can be fixed.
@@rachelaimer6284 If it went off and it's running OK then you should be fine. Keep an eye on your gas mileage and if the engine runs smooth. Like it normally does. If something is off the light will come on again. It may have been a very temporary low oil pressure signal because of the cold. That would be my guess by what you described. I wouldn't worry about it if the light went off on it's own. Something like a loose gas cap that triggers it will usually turn back off after a couple of cold starts once it's tightened. No biggie. I think you'll be fine. The newer engines post 2005 or so don't need to be warmed up. They have thinner, usually synthetic oil like 5W20 and when cold the ECU automatically runs the engine rich (open loop) until it's warm and hits operating temp and the O2 sensors kick in (Closed Loop). Then the air/fuel mixture is automatically adjusted by those readings. The old carbonated V-8's, Slant/straight 6's and 4 cylinders had way thicker oil like 10W40 and it would get like molasses in very cold weather and had to be warmed up to pump through the engine effectively. The Choke on the old carburetors would be open to make the engine idle higher on those engines and you actually had a "gas pedal". On these newer ECM controlled engines you don't. The pedal you press is actually an "air pedal" that opens and closes the flap on the Throttle body to allow more or less AIR into the engine as the ECM is in full control of your fuel that enters the engine based on the amount of air entering it at different speeds and RPMs. The air coming in is measured by the Mass Air Flow Sensor or MAF positioned in front of the throttle body to maintain that 14.7/1 air to fuel ratio. I still let my 2005 V-6 warm up a bit though before I put it in gear and take off. I still think it's a good idea to do that when it's really cold out to make sure oil pressure is ok and no warning lights stay on. I think you'll be fine though as long as the light is off and the engine is running like it normally does. I hope this helps you.
Solved the issue in check 1. Probably saved me a few hundred "analysis" from a tech, so thank you!
You're welcome, thanks for watching, and glad if the video helped!
Excellent advice, just saved me £114 diagnostic test at Honda garage by cleaning around rubber seal on fuel cap🥳
You're welcome and glad if the video helped!
You explain everything very well and correctly!
Thank you!
But you need too mention the mileage with these problems because that's a big issue when looking at the problems ?
Thank you so much for this. I was on my way to collect my Grandchildren from school, tried the petrol cap tip & the light went off! Thanks again, saved me the trouble & money of going to the mechanic. Sincerely & so grateful Joan
You're welcome and glad if the video helped! 🙂
3 years WOW,I couldn't help from stressing that long.
But thank you for sharing that.😅
Thanks for watching!
Such nature behind! Birds are chirping and peaceful and lush greeny area! Just wOw!
Hi and thanks for watching!
Yep, we live in the countryside, that's the reason. Interferes a bit with the video but I hope people don't mind :-)
All the best to you!
Amazing view 😍
Thank you for this video. What I don't like about a franchise shop like the one I went to diagnose my issue, they always recommend to change to new parts vs cleaning it first. That would not be a good place to go so now I realize those small independent shops would do a better job. Never have them replace the part until they've look at everything and do the cleaning up under the hood. I have an engine check light again after 2 years now. The first time my O2 sensor was changed but it did not help, the shop had no idea. Finally we checked out the air intake and that was cleaned. It did the trick as I looked up the obd2 code online to find other areas of concern.
You're welcome, thanks for watching and sharing information on the topic!
You're absolutely agree. Don't go to franchise setup. I don't mind paying more than to be rip-off
Well you sir are my savour , i was a 100 miles from home in my campervan when the dreaded light came on, reading in the manual it said it was the catalytic converter and drive to the nearest garage at 40 miles an hour?? I contacted the vw transporter site and there advise me to put my boot down to clear it ??? Be confused i stubbled onto your video , wow couldnt believe it but I tighten my fuel cap problem solved light went straight out , thank you so much 👍👍👍👌
Glad if the video helped and thanks for watching!
Thank you so much!!!! My cap was very loose after I got gas. I was rushing and didn’t notice that I didn’t turn it closed all the way!!!🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
No one is around, so I want to tell someone...I just burned my nose hairs while lighting a miniature bowl. It sucked. That is all. 😂
lmao what??? 😂
Be careful. Or roll a doobie instead.🙂
love this
😂😂😂😂
Did u get a buzz though despite that
They can send a man to the moon, but they can't make a sensor that tells you what problem your car has?
SAD! 😢
Hi David and thanks for watching!
You're right the present system has a lot of flaws and is sometimes unreliable, even to the point that some good old thinking and old-school problem-solving does a better job.
Perhaps someday a car will have some sort of its own self-diagnostic system which will give more precise information.
All the best to you!
It’s not that they can’t make a sensor that tells you, they don’t want to. They want you to have to take it to an authorised dealer. ££
try FIXD
They don’t have a censor that tell you what’s wrong because there’s no money on that if you know the problem then they won’t b able to charge u 500 dollars to tell you there’s something wrong and if u wanna know what it is it’s another 300 dollars and if u wanna fix it then it’s half the cars actuall price
but did they send a man to the moon think about it
Just tightened my gas cap and it went off!!!!!; Thank you Sir!
You're welcome and glad if the video helped!
Bro your the best, bought a new gas cap for 6 bucks problem solved thank you have a great day love IceMan
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Thank you. My EML was on because of loose petrol cap. I tightened it and EML went out. Thanks pal great video
You're welcome and glad the video helped!
@@DespairRepair by
Thank you for this video my Fiat had an engine warning light and saying start/stop not available and my car wasn't getting much power and cut out on me, my mechanic has found it was a loose air hose to the engine, cross fingers the problem has been sorted
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Is the Toyota Yaris 2011 Terra Sporty engine belted or chained?
You don’t have to replace or clean O2 Sensors all the time sometimes you can clean them by using high quality fuel and when you have a chance put your foot down and it cleans them out I did it on the last car I had I got over 100.000 Kay’s and the cod didn’t come back
Hi Roger, thanks for watching and the good comment!
Thank you sir for summarizing those usual CEL problems. I think those are true for most make and model of vehicles.
I’m doing same way I block the engine light by my arm and I’m not look this way
I just cleaned my petrol cap and top of the petrol tank with WD40 and the light went away. Thank you for your help! I do think that providing the car is running well this isn't something to be worried about too much. Although I am glad this has now gone!
You're welcome, thanks for watching, and glad that the video helped!
Number 1 gas cap typically P0455 or P0456 with message fuel canister / evap being a bad seal I totally agree. I have resolved several of these. Usually the fill neck has started to rust preventing a good seal. A few rubs on the rust with sand paper followed by a bit of grease (Vaseline in a pinch) on the corroded surface will resolve.
Hi, thanks for watching and for sharing, much appreciated 🙂
My check engine light came on but I couldn't get an appointment in town. I went to get gas an discovered my cap wasn't tight?
Thank you ❤️
@@ginapereira8948 you're welcome and thanks fpr watching!
I have the light on my mazda 2006 tribute with 90K miles
The mechanics said its the air to fuel ratio and are quoting $3,000 to fix a list of different problems lol
Air getting into the tank will not change the air fuel mixture. The light come on because vapors are leaking out of the tank.
Excellent job Excellent video and thank you so much. From Andres j. In florida
Thank you very much for the kind words and thanks for watching!
Congratulations nice explanation regarding engine alarm light. As my experience car sir..
Thanks you sir 😁🌏💕
What happened to me the other day the car spitting and sputtering all of a sudden and I pulled over and stole that check engine light came on I waited a couple minutes to start it up but the transmission wouldn't shift to the second gear where do you think that would be a Somerset throttle control valve
Thank you,sir,for providing this very important information.Sincerely,N.Sanders.
You're welcome and thank you very watching us!
Thank you sir,just cleaned my gas tank cap with a clean dry cloth and immediately it went off 😊😊
You're welcome, thanks for watching, and glad if the video helped.
Had my light on so I called AA (UK breakdown cover) diagnosed it and it turns out it's the Transmission Control Unit, however the car drives absolutely fine and no loss of power, the light went off itself within an hour as well, the car is Mitsubishi Colt diesel semi automatic. The AA man said its just a minor fault and just leave it and keep driving the car as long as it drives fine and there's no loss of power. We only had bought the car so we're not going to be overly concerned at the minute and hoping the light doesn't come on again lol.
Hi and thanks for watching the video!
I think that the AA man gave you some good advice.
The check engine light is notorious for coming up for minor faults like weak electric connections, loose hose clamps or other while the codes show more serious problems.
Anyway, drive the car until the check engine light comes up more often or more serious symptoms appear. Just pay some extra attention in the meantime.
Otherwise, you could just end up spending money and replacing parts that maybe don't need to be replaced.
This is all from experience, btw.
All the best to you and hope the light doesn't come up again :-)
Same exact thing happened to me. My check Engine light came on. Scanned with scan tool. Pulled 2 codes. One was gas cap. The other was bad battery connection. I was just about to get it fixed and the light went off. Drives, idles fine. No power loss.
So my new Hyundai i20 started showing that light on, garage schedules but engine power is clearly limited... and it sounds like a paper on the wind sometimes, weird stuff... wonder if you could give some light on a possible issue.
Hi and thanks for watching!
To be honest, it's hard to say with this information but it probably loses power since it goes into limp mode when the check engine light goes on.
Regarding the sound, I would first check if everything on the air intake is OK and properly set and tightened. Especially do this if there was recent maintenance done.
Hyundai is a good and well-built car and I doubt that something serious is wrong.
Hope this helps.
This is a great video! Ive gone through all these except change 2 of my 02 sensors and clean the catal converter after taking my 2007 wm statesman to a mechanic without a resolution. The odbc gives off the p01010 (code that refers to the maf sensor..) unfortunately replacing with a new bosch one still didn't resolve it.. I may have that odbc code wrong above but it was for the maf... if the mechanic who is over 30 years qualified can't resolve im not sure what else I can try :(
I saw the video
And l check my car l slove just the cup of gas not closed properly thank you so much l appreciate you for sharing ur video
Wow thanks very much for your explanations. I have to checked mine because the lights been on for a while
You're welcome and I hope you solve the problem!
Thanks a lot for your video bro on mu way to airport and this popped up you helped sending you love ❤️
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
I have paid $918.10 at one shop, engine light back on next day, took another shop, paid $141.00, engine light back on, called mobile mechanic paid $100, check engine light back on, took to another shop paid $749.04, check engine light back on, they Firestone said bring back Tuesday morning see what else they need to do... they said need to reset the memory so that can pass inspection.... SMH ...
2008 DTS
Hi and thanks for watching the video!
My goodness, that's a truckload of money :-(.
The check engine light is known to be a money pit problem. One of the points of the video was to try and give a hint to avoid such expenses.
Lots of times the error code is induced by other systems and parts that the error code doesn't show.
Hence the constant unneeded replacament of parts: an expensive system of elimination that comes from the owner's pocket.
This writing won't help a bit to solve your problem but at least ask the next people that come to exactly pinpoint the problem and stand behind their words.
Best of luck with the repair.
Thnx for the tips. I believe i had a problem with the tankcap. Thanks again.
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Very well explained, I have 2004 VW Polo, 1.4L petrol engine. OBD code shows MAF sensor. Replaced it, but Check Engine light keeps coming back on, with same code. Will try to check Gas Cap, and Air Intake box. Thank You
Hi Firoz and thanks for watching!
Certainly, worth the try, hope that any of the tips help!
....sever the wire, to that engine light......
Sounded silly but I cleaned the petrol cap with WD40 and it worked. Many thanks.
You're welcome and glad if the video helped!
Camera coverage is poor.
But Sir your explanation is superb.
Hi, thanks for watching and sorry for the late reply.
Thank you for the kind words :-) hopefully the footage will get better over time.
Now i can see what exactly a problem on my car,thanks for a video and a clear message about why my engine light come on
You're welcome and glad if the video helped
What is a tool with Exclamation mark light means on Toyota Aqua?
Thank you
In what sequence should you check the possible faults? Clearly, the most expensive (replacing catalyst) should be the last.
Hi and thanks for watching! Yes, that's the right way, start from the gas tank cap and go from there.
My light's been on for 3 years....no problems.
I found that sometimes when the car has some age on it, the computer system can go a bit haywire. Try this, it worked for my 2004 Pontiac Vibe. Disconnect completely, your battery, then turn your light switch on, wait 5 minutes, reconnect battery, then turn off lights. This resets the computer, in most cases. We do the same thing to our cell phones. Try this, it may remedy the check engine light. Get a portable scanner, plug it under driver's dash, and scan for codes, find what they mean, and go from there. Could be:
1: Faulty gas cap
2: O2 sensor
3: Mass air flow
Just suggestions. 👍ALOHA
Good information ,will the heat sensor turn it on?
Hi and thanks for watching!
If you're talking about the temperature sensor, yes it will, it's a common fault on VW group cars of that era.
We're making a video soon just about that.
Scotty Kilmer said ignore it till it gets worse unless light is blinking/flashing
Hi and thanks for watching the video!
If Scotty says so, then it's the truth :-). Big fan of his.
In fact, I think he's totally right. Trying to solve a check engine problem without a real symptom can end up in spending lots of money and time on repairs only to achieve nothing.
Best regards to you!
Once I have changed the Gearbox, this engine check light getting ON in red color. It is only appears when I travel to 5 or 6km continuously. If I stop the engine and start again, the indicator getting OFF.
What may be the issue? Please advice me
What are some causes of it cutting out? Mine keeps acting like a shift problem , cuts out like it wants to die out.
same idk what the problem is let me know if you found out?
Very informative it solved my problem in like 30 seconds thank you
You're welcome and glad if the video helped!
Can I hole on the windshield washer reservoir cause this ?
Very good video. If the flexi pipe's broken can cause the EML problem?
Hi, thanks for watching and for the kind words 🙂
If you're talking about the pipe for the air intake, yes it can.
Thank you so much I owe you that one but how to make the Light disappear after fixing it
You're welcome, glad the video helped, and thanks for watching!
How does the fuel tank cap relate to engine light management?
Hi and thanks for watching! Air gets into the fuel intake and causes a disturbance in the air-fuel mixture triggering the check engine light.
That was very helpful, thanks.
You're welcome and glad if the video helped!
I’ve got the warning light come up on my car.On inspection I’ve got oil on the spark plugs and coil packs on two out of the four cylinders.Sounds like the value gasket needs replacing.Would these cause the light to come on ?
Thanks for this informative video. In my car the coolant warning symbol came on, I let it rest and drove to my nearest destination and the check engine light came on. Took it the garage and they poured water in the radiator and but the light is still on. What would be the next best course of action?
Disconnect car battery for few minutes and connect. Might be that computer need reset.
Yes because the light does not turn off immediately
@@mariuszmoraw3571 you can also just disconnect the negative terminal witch is easier.
Thank you,after put in gas the check engine light turn on,i clean the cap now,the light is off. Thanks.
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
so i just done my AC flushing service two days ago. but after tha i noticed that my throttle is a lil bit stuttering. and suddenly the check engine light is on steadily. please help me
Mine was on and later battery died. Now I changed the battery the engine light is off. I also suspect my gas cap but will monitor it for now if it comes back wil change the gas cap
Thanks mate it was my gas tank cap, easy fix cheers 👍
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
what was your car doing .to make u change gas cap?
The check engine light only came ON after I had changed the battery. How do you reset this? Should I remove the ground cable of the battery for 1min and reconnect to see if it goes away? Please advice. Thanks
Hi Dominga and thanks for watching!
Yes, you can try to do that. When you take off the battery terminal, also press the horn to discharge the system totally.
Keep the door or window open just in case, so you have access to the passenger cabin.
If this doesn't work, then using an OBD tool is the next best thing.
Hope this helps. Don't know why it showed up after the battery replacement, it shouldn't be that way.
.
Very well explained and I fixed my vehicle as you said thank you God bless you 🙏.
You're welcome and thanks for watching, glad the video helped!
Excellent the reset worked. Engine light now off. Liked!
Thank you and glad if the video helped 🙂
My check engine light keeps coming on because what the service desk manager at Pep boys told me it's because of condensation/moisture building up in the system. Could you please explain this and what is the solution to prevent or resolve this issue with condensation build up in order to prevent the check engine light keep coming on? I have a 2013 Chevy Equinox SUV
Just putting it out there.... My Management light came on. I felt sick to say the least. Had it reset and it came on AGAIN the next day. Turned out to be my petrol filter. Phew ! Car is running like a dream and no light. Its been 2 weeks 😊
Hi and thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing and glad you solved the problem 🙂
Just watched the Tigra video of yours, congrats on the fix, it's very valuable information for someone with the same problem.
@@DespairRepair Thanks. A girls gotta do what a girls gotta do 🤣
What do you call that equipment that checks the lights on the dashboard of your car so yo will know in details ? Thanks
Hi, and thanks for watching!
If we're thinking about the same thing, it's the Onboard Diagnostic reader, aka OBD reader
What about a bad power steering pump, can that cause the light?
Hi, and thanks for watching! It depends on the car model but sometimes yes, it can.
However, like on the Skoda for instance, there is a separate warning light for that.
Very helpful tips > gas tank cap was wrong. Thank you so much. Otherwise mechanic will charge unnecessary $$$. God bless you !
You're welcome and glad that we could help 🙂.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your knowledge. I was able to repair my vehicle.
Is this for every car?
Yes, it is meant as a general explanation
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a question, but maybe it's a stupid one. When I put the key in and I can see that all warning lights appear, then disappear one-by-one, except one (light engine), but that also disappears when I start the engine, is that a problem or not?
That doesn’t mean anything. Mine does that too
@@mrkalenda4911 Thank you!
have to change all 12 plugs in my Bentley continental gt my question is do I need any other parts to take with me other then the 12 plugs?
Thank you for a clear and concise video.
You're welcome, thanks for the kind words and for watching!
My engine light came on, my radiator needle went straight up to the top and we heard a rattling noise.
The water and oil was fine. I've just checked my petrol cap and that is all good. My husband put coolant in the radiator (not much)
The next day, the engine light was off and the radiator needle was normal.
Do you know what my problem could be?
Hi and thanks for watching!
There could be a couple of reasons, if the rattling sound is still present when the engine is running check when the water pump was last replaced.
Also, check the coolant fan radiator.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for your guidance. I resolved my ‘Engine Check Light” problem by removing earth terminal of battery for one minute, pressing horn and then re-fixing the battery terminal. Check light gone.
Thanks again
You're welcome, glad the video helped, and thanks for watching!
Thank you.thank you and very very thank you for sharing video clip. Its very helpful.thank you.
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
What mean when the check engine apear only before starting the engline ...all light disapear and engine stays...but after starting the engine the light disapear and never go on again during drive .
Even my manual dosnt telling me much ...only says malfunction ....
I dont know if i have to change fuel filter ... i been to the service for water pump CHANGE and drived only 1500 miles / 2 month ago and the full check done on the service was OK ...
Hi there I have a massive problem my Toyota 4zz manual. It's keeps having a very slow delay with clutching and slow in taking off. Infact is it has power loss when driving uphill and engine light is forever on.
Hi and thanks for watching!
That's a pretty broad explanation.
Try using an OBD tool and see if you get an error code.
The best things to do is use OBD scanner to be specific. The OBD reading give you accurate guide.
Very helpful!
Thank you 🙏🏾
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Hello what is the reason for the check light not to come on could you please tell me the reason thank you
Good morning what you think could be the problem... when the car is used for long . I get trouble accelerating anything over 60 the engine light comes on and it goes down I literally have to use my toe to drive to accelerate very very slow and try and keep it at 60
Hi and thanks for watching!
It could be lots of things. If you want to solve the problem you'll have to hook up an OBD tool and get an error code.
Depending on the engine and the car model, It could be a dirty throttle body, a bad MAF sensor and the list goes on.
Hi just got my Honda civic 2018(auto) serviced and engine management light came on 😢 any idea what that could be? Thanks
Hi, and thanks for watching!
The best way to find out is to connect an OBD tool and get an error code.
You can also check for basic problems like the gas tank cap or minor air leaks.
Those are very well-built cars, so hopefully it shouldn't be a big problem 🙂
@@DespairRepair I am going to take it to the Honda dealership tomorrow, as they serviced it today
@@R.KHAN86 in that case that's maybe the best solution. It's probably a minor fault
Hello, I got a Toyota D-Cat and the engine light is on, but also the vsc and trac light. When this happens, the car loses ALOT of power and can after a while reach 80 km/h. We have scanned the car and got one code, P0400. We have checked almost everything, air filter, MAF sensor, 02 sensor, swapped EGR but with no success. Have any tips on what to do before we send it in to a mechanic? Thank you for a great video anyways!
Hi Tim thanks for the kind words and for watching!
You've checked more or less everything. I would check once more for an air leak (like punctured hoses, loose clamps, or else).
Sorry for the late reply and hope this helps.
Hi my insignia 2019 does not have a removable gas cap :( light keeps coming on intermittently usually in start stop traffic
Hi and thanks for watching! Sorry to hear that, that's probably an expensive fix 😞.
Maybe you can just change the gasket on the cap or something?
My eml light started flashing and car started shaking also had the traction control light come on. If the exhaust was faulty would this be the reason?
Hi and thanks for watching!
Depends on what kind of fault you have on the exhaust.
@@DespairRepair I'm not too sure but a mechanic has told me my exhaust needs replacing couple days after I experienced this. Would any type of exhaust problem cause the engine light and traction control to come on while the car shakes?
Appreciate the reply.
@@latenightsurvivors18 a check engine light (regarding the exhaust)appears, in most cases, due to clogged filters (like the DPF for instance) or a clogged catalytic converter.
The main reason is a clog in the system which impacts how the engine runs.
But if the exhaust is only punctured or in any other way physically damaged (or rusty) then those symptoms shouldn't appear.
I didn't ask, what's the car?
@@DespairRepair thank you so much. Its a vauxhall astra petrol.
Liked and subscribed.
Have a blessed day
@@latenightsurvivors18 good car.
Thank you very much for subscribing it means a lot to us 🙂 and hope any of this helps
Any problem for long distance drive.. this light glowing.
All my car needed replacing my brake pads! Problem solved, Engine light went off, and hasn’t came back on, I can’t believe this man didn’t know your brake pads could be worn. Bought my car brand new, only had 34 thousand miles on it, when the engine light came on.
The rotors, and drums were fine.
Hi i have a question.. i have the BMW M3 COMPETITION and when i just start ignition not the motor all the warning lights illuminate and disappear except for the engine light. But when i start the motor press 2x the ignition button its all off no warnings car status ok etc. Is this normal at bmws?
Hi and thanks for watching!
First of all, congrats on the car, very nice piece of machinery.
Regarding the check engine light, best connect an OBD tool and see if there are any errors, just in case.
It might be just an electronic glitch of some sort but check it out.
Really thanks it works I do have Skoda rapid , follow the protocol fuel tank was not closed properly hence solved thanks cheers 🎉
Hi and thanks for watching. Glad that the video helped and that you solved the problem. By the way, nice car you have there.🙂
Thank you so much🤝Just now I retightened the gas tank lid and the light went OFF!!!
You're welcome!
Just did same and the light went off…thanks
Hello you Are very good teacher.thank;s.
Hi my car have same issue 2012 VW jetta.. battery already dead i hope this is the issue. However I check with OBD showing plug 3 misfire and engine pressure is low. What should I do Could you help me....
My check light comes on just for fun. About once a month it happens. I simply turn the engine off momentarily and when I restart, its off again until next month!😀
🙂🙂🙂 thats one way of solving the problem, sometimes better then the usual one 🙂.
Thanks for watching!
@despair repair if the fuel cap is loose or broken so air can get in will the van jolt when started up or turned off? Because I’ve just bought a used transit and the engine light is on and I’ve just noticed the fuel cap is broken 🙄🤦🏻♂️so I’m ordering a brand new one can the engine sort itself out once there’s a brand new fuel cap and a air tight seal is made or will it require further maintenance?
Hi and thanks for watching! The check engine light may go away, but the jolting will be caused by something else, I think.
@@DespairRepair could in be the turbo booster? Or the fuel injector converter?
@@DespairRepair the engine doesn’t jolt I perhaps worded that wrongly 🤔let me try again when I start the engine it struggles for a second to start and at the second it’s as if the whole engine is moving to the point it wants to explode but once it’s running it’s fine and settles down to normal and the same thing happens when turning the engine off it kind of rattles and shakes slightly when coming to a standstill
Best thing to do on new gas cap is spray the inside rubber seal with wd 40
recommended (budget)OBD reader?
Hi and thanks for watching! From experience: the CG Sulit reader, we've made a review about it so if you have the time you can take a look.
Sir, my engine, oil, and battery light gets on while switch on. And instantly all dessapears after the ignition. Its like that since i bought the hilux from toyota showroom.