Love the great job you’re doing the details are awesome. That helps us guys that do this stuff at home with paying attention to the details. That is what matters keep up the great work make more videos we need them.
Great work as always …. Love the real world demo from a true pro ….. my buddy worked at a high end shop and did exact same with his 🤚 hands on every job we did together
I see a lot of diy painters turning the exhaust fan off and on during the process of their paint jobs.... creating a sudden burst of air flow/new draft over again which wil pick up dirt/trash/dried over spray off the floor/shelves etc other surfaces. It's best to leave the exhaust fan on once you start the draft. The exhaust fan should also be left running a couple/3 hours or longer is better' after the paint job is completed. Chemical gas off will settle back on the vehicle which is one of the most common causes of solvent pop . I've seen both diy and experienced painters make these mistakes.
You are 100% right on both those thoughts. Leave the fan on low the whole time - won't kick up dust and continues to pull out fumes and gases. It does have a negative effect on the shine too if left in a garage with those gases.
You're AWESOME!!! I love how you dispelled all the myths at once. I always wondered if it was a good idea to wet the floor. Because the water evaporates and some would condensate on the vehicle. So now I know, Thank You!!
You're welcome - never wet the floor in a paint booth either - the dust would come from the dirty filters or it was on the panel already - thanks for the kind words my friend :)
Never..... You absolutely have to scuff right to the edge though - never paint over un-scuffed shiny paint. Also keep your tape off the surface you'll paint :)
You can have the best paint booth or cleanest environment your going to have some dust nibs even cars at the factory get nibs in them they usually get nibbed out in final process at the factory I have also seen solvent pops in new cars on the lot
Hi, what i do also to prevent dust nibs is spraying some grease remover in the air using a spraying gun, so to "catch" all the particles of dust flying in the spraying area, and then i proceed with wiping the car and then using a tack rag...it works pretty well for me.
I always wait 10 minutes between coats of base coat. Then wait an hour before clear - dont want to disturb the metallic flakes. Then 10 minutes between coats of clear. Spray around 70 degrees. Have a great weekend River :)
I enjoy your videos very much. This car came out dust free for sure. When I was painting professionally, it seemed liked the dust found a way onto the horizntal surfaces such as the hoods and tops of the cars. I would often have to color sand and buff a dust nib out. Very rarely had dust on the sides. Gravity still works to pull a dust particle onto the big flat surfaces. They look huge when one puts a show car shine on it. Quick question: what was the aerosol can near the end of the video? You didn't mention what that was. Curious.
Thanks - this will answer your ? about the aerosol can. You might like this horizontal panel - can't get dust in this 'cause you can't buff - th-cam.com/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/w-d-xo.html I had a few specs actually but not that many :)
It depends on temperature, but it doesn't take long at all for it to tack up. When in doubt, I will touch a masked off section that has clear on it to see if it's tacky enough for the next coat. Also they make different "speeds" of hardener, so for instance if you're working in colder weather you could use a "fast hardener", or if it's hot you'd want a "slow" hardener. Same goes for reducers. You don't generally use reducer in clear, but you do in basecoat and primers(sometimes LOL).
Steven makes some good points. I set my watch for 10 minutes and try to stay in the house - have a coffee or something 'else I'll go out there and screw with it - mess something up. 👍🍻😊
That came out gorgeous! BTW, the video title doesn't do it justice - there's a whole lot more you're showing us here than just how to get it dust free. At the same time, you showed that I need to up my game in the dust-prep part of the job. I've always figured any specs in the paint came from dust in the air.
Thanks so much - I really appreciate the kind words. I used to get frustrated with dirt in jobs even in paint booths till one day I wiped the panels with my hand just before painting and felt tons of specks and dust - the panels are magnetized and attract dirt- you have to get them spotless before the first coat.👍🎃😊
nice to see that paint job, and you didnt speed the vid up where it most counted when i needed to see. please say about your breathing apparatus, id like to know . thanks again mate!
I'm really glad to hear that - that's exactly why I didn't speed it up. The mask I use is in the video description. Changing them out often is the key to safety - folks keep the same mask for years and the charcoal filter gets saturated - not good. You shouldn't smell anything when you have a fresh one on 🎃👍😊
Yes. Don't worry about the environment at all - unless you're outside and wind is kicking up dust, etc. You can paint in a barn if no one is kicking up dust and the surface was spotless before the first coat. Promise :)
Hey Jerry, how tacky is the clear when put down the second coat. Do you wait past when it is still stringy on to the glove when you touch (checking on the tape beside the panel of course)? Do you wait longer so clear is dryer for coat 3? Thanks!
I set my watch for 10 minutes (70 degrees or hotter). Same with basecoat. You're right on though - you'll want the previous coat to be at least tacky dry (not too stringy) before the next coat. Sometimes on the last coat you can double coat to make sure everything is wet but be careful 👍
A long time ago in the '70's a shop I worked at as a kid used a product called Gonz or Gone-z to get rid of the wax and oil residue. It was basically naptha which is like lighter fluid. I had a guy that did painting and bodywork on the side paint my car when I was in the Navy (mid '80's). There was a lot of trash on the deck lid, which might be able t o be buffed or corrected. He painted it in a barn and said the stuff came off the rafters or ceiling (he said). Actually, I wouldn't have cared as much about that as the fact he picked the WRONG shade of green metallic. There were 2 green codes that year. I'm betting he didn't check and guessed and picked the wrong one.
@LakesideAutobody no. He repainted the whole car. Jambs and all. Yah, to clarify, the guy was a welder and worked for the state highway department, but did bodywork and painting as a 'side' job.
@@LakesideAutobody I would have been happy if it was only a spot repair. You can't really tell the original color with out some digging or looking at the paint code. He did the whole shooting match. Trunk, under the deck lid, jambs, underhood, firewall, fender sides. Basically a whole color change I didn't want because he probably didn't want to waste the paint after he figured out the screwup, if it was before he shot it. I would have ate the difference just not to have to fix it now. Paint back then (1986) was under $100 a gallon. Way under. Just plain Acrylic enamel.
What's a good cheap WnG remover right now?I had been using a can of Acetone I got the better part of ten years ago but now with prices of things I don't feel like going that route.
A lot of folks on YT have been using rubbing alcohol - I've used it on plastic bumpers and never had an issue. Used it on other stuff too - no issues. I've used mineral spirits, reducer, and acetone before too - no problems. Maybe try EBAY - UPOL, etc.
The real wax and grease remover smells just like mineral spirits. That's what I use. It's a mild chemical evaporates really slowly which is what you want.
Hey Jerry I just wanted to say I really enjoy your content-your technique is spot-on, and I always pick up something new from your videos. I’d love to send you a few of our automotive paint prep products to try out. If you’re interested, let me know-I think it’d be great to collaborate sometime down the road. Thanks for all the awesome work you share
Po odmuchaniu auta pył unosi się w pomieszczeniu a filtry kabinowe są niedoskonałe. Proponuje zakupić za jakieś 250 usd domowy oczyszczacz powietrza z filtrem HEPA a wyłączyć wentylację kabinową. Filtr HEPA w ciągu kilkunastu minut powinien oczyścić powietrze z drobinek do 2 micronów.😅 Można lakierować!
@LakesideAutobody coraz lepiej choć teraz mamy rząd lewacki i proniemieckie. Mimo to pamiętam czas komunizmu i potem dużego bezrobocia, wejścia do UE. Dziś do pracy przyjeżdżają tu ludzie z całego świata a coraz więcej Polaków wraca do ojczyzny bo jak mówią że dziś Ameryka w Polsce. Warszawa wygląda jak mały Nowy Jork i praca jest a w starej UE ludzie nie mają pracy jak np Italia czy Hiszpania i niektórzy tu przyjeżdżają... Dawniej to było nie do pomyślenia. To tak jakby z USA wyjeżdżali do Meksyku! Pozdrawiam.
@LakesideAutobody coraz lepiej. Warszawa to taki mały Nowy Jork a ludzie wracają do kraju, wielu cudzoziemców tu przyjeżdża za pracą nawet z Europy co 20 lat temu przy wysokim bezrobociu było niemożliwe. Lakiernik zarabia ok 50 USD na godzinę co w porównaniu z innymi zawodami to sporo. Ale tu Europa, musisz mieć kabinę bo ci zakład zamkną😅
You have explained to me in the past, still bows my mind that you don't take the handles and belt mouldings off. That name plate is not that expensive either. Laugh out loud. Thats for the lesson
@@billsmith-ms9pu First thing I noticed. I'm not one to cut someone down, but there are so many red flags in this video. I couldn't bring myself to paint this job like that.
You're welcome 😊 A couple bosses of mine wanted us to tape everything off to eliminate messing it up putting it together. I loved it - un mask, wash and send it. No chance of scratching. I promise you'll scratch it, or mess up the paint more often than not 👍
@@LakesideAutobody Very, very rare occasion of repaint due to reassembly in the shops I've worked at. Haven't painted an assembled car in 25 years. To each his own I guess.
@@billsmith-ms9pu I've painted everything detrimmed for the past 25 years also. I understand that people learn different techniques. The red flags here are painting around handles, mouldings and emblems running a risk of runs, de-lam or dry paint behind the handles. Tell me how to make that look presentable if you have a run flowing off an emblem. Not to mention the next guy who inherits that mess when he does it properly and finds all these tape lines when it's detrimmed. I know. I've been there. Cleaning up this mess when working 100% commission. These procedures are old school and should not be promoted in videos like they are industry standards. People that view these how to videos should learn the correct way which this is not. By the way, your original post confirms everything I posted. I was agreeing with you. Check your original post and my original reply again. I thought we're on the same page. 🙄
Always appreciate the videos but being in the trade myself for 30 years, I can tell your a body man and definitely not a painter 😆to many applicaton errors here to note lol. Main one being painting edge to edge and not over lapping panels.
Never had any issues spraying that way - along with a smaller pattern - smaller patterns worked great for eliminating mottling in single stage paints -we'd spray from further back to create a crop dusting effect - bingo - no blotchy silvers, etc. Thanks for the comment Kenny - have a good weekend.
@@AdamA-pm3yn Am sure he knows there’s absolutely no malice intended with that comment there. He is a top class body man, far more skills than I cld ever dream off. Iam a painter. Have bein taught how to paint that’s it. I would say the same to a pal or work colleague. Nothing wrong with his work wat so ever, the application process isn’t how we get taught or teach for multiple reasons. Over the years av learned the hard way myself. We all know he does good work, hense av bein subscribed since day 1.
This guy is lost, the guy that painted cars where I was at used to touch the panels like this cat and where there was only cleared in the blends areas his handprint would appear after about one month, looked like a milky ghost of his hand including fingerprints that had to be repainted when he was told stop touching the panel the problem disappeared, never touch the panel once it has been solvent cleaned, NEVER, you risk transferring body acid that eats through the finish. Most of these guys go in and out of the booth when putting coats down how would you go and rewipe a panel that has one coat on??? Its fresh paint and stickier than glue, this old boy is lost, paint is a plastic product and gets statically charged by the air any dust on the person or the area gets drawn statically even Mr Clean ain't that clean, tell him to spray a large hood and you will see it will be full of dirt the sides are much more forgiving..
Sorry my friend, TV, blogs, and magazines steer you wrong. - you'll have o work in a body shop if you want the truth. Here's the hood you asked for - th-cam.com/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/w-d-xo.html 😁
Brilliant Mate!! Perfect Factory Finish!!☻
Thanks so much RK - always good to hear from you - thanks for watching. Enjoy your weekend 👍🎃😊
Love the great job you’re doing the details are awesome. That helps us guys that do this stuff at home with paying attention to the details. That is what matters keep up the great work make more videos we need them.
That makes my day Kenny - thanks for the kind words. I'll keep them coming - thanks for watching my friend - enjoy the weekend 👍🎃😊
I was wondering about this recently, good information.
Your paint laid out really slick. Nice job. Enjoy the rest of your weekend Jerry
Thanks Greg - enjoy the rest of your weekend too! 👍🎃😊
Great video as usual. Thanks. Have a great week. Bob
You too my friend 👍🎃😊
Beautiful job Jerry. No one will ever know that the car was repaired. Your videos are always well produced and informative.
Thanks Tom - I always appreciate your comments. Hope your vacations are going well. 🛫🛬
Great work as always …. Love the real world demo from a true pro ….. my buddy worked at a high end shop and did exact same with his 🤚 hands on every job we did together
Thanks LCPD - I appreciate the support and kind words my friend - enjoy the weekend 🏈😊
Looks great good job. Al, NJ
Thanks my friend - have a great day :)
Hey nice work
Thanks 👍🎃😊
BRAVO Excellent body work
Awesome Man
Great tip to get a nice clean paint job. Thanks for the instructions
You're welcome - enjoy the weekend 👍🎃😊
I see a lot of diy painters turning the exhaust fan off and on during the process of their paint jobs.... creating a sudden burst of air flow/new draft over again which wil pick up dirt/trash/dried over spray off the floor/shelves etc other surfaces. It's best to leave the exhaust fan on once you start the draft.
The exhaust fan should also be left running a couple/3 hours or longer is better' after the paint job is completed.
Chemical gas off will settle back on the vehicle which is one of the most common causes of solvent pop . I've seen both diy and experienced painters make these mistakes.
You are 100% right on both those thoughts. Leave the fan on low the whole time - won't kick up dust and continues to pull out fumes and gases. It does have a negative effect on the shine too if left in a garage with those gases.
You're AWESOME!!! I love how you dispelled all the myths at once. I always wondered if it was a good idea to wet the floor. Because the water evaporates and some would condensate on the vehicle. So now I know, Thank You!!
You're welcome - never wet the floor in a paint booth either - the dust would come from the dirty filters or it was on the panel already - thanks for the kind words my friend :)
thank you for common sense approach.
You're welcome - glad you liked the video. Enjoy the weekend 👍🎃😊
Have you ever had any problems with the clear back peeling from taping the door handles and emblems instead of removing?
Never..... You absolutely have to scuff right to the edge though - never paint over un-scuffed shiny paint. Also keep your tape off the surface you'll paint :)
You can have the best paint booth or cleanest environment your going to have some dust nibs even cars at the factory get nibs in them they usually get nibbed out in final process at the factory I have also seen solvent pops in new cars on the lot
True :)
Hi, what i do also to prevent dust nibs is spraying some grease remover in the air using a spraying gun, so to "catch" all the particles of dust flying in the spraying area, and then i proceed with wiping the car and then using a tack rag...it works pretty well for me.
Interesting - thanks for your input my friend 👍🏈😊
Jerry how long do you wait between base coats and between clear coats?
Thanks for the advice
I always wait 10 minutes between coats of base coat. Then wait an hour before clear - dont want to disturb the metallic flakes. Then 10 minutes between coats of clear. Spray around 70 degrees. Have a great weekend River :)
Thank you taking the time to answer Jerry
Cheers!
You are a machine, man!
Thanks my friend - glad you like the video - I appreciate the kind words 👍🎃😊
Great job, Jerry. You make it look easy I have learn so much watching 👀 you my friend thanks for sharing with us
You're welcome - thanks for checking it out Luis - have a great weekend my friend :)
Exactly, your hands will be as dry as dry can be in this trade.
Clean clean clean 👌
You got it my friend - thanks for the support - have a great weekend 👍🍻😊
I enjoy your videos very much. This car came out dust free for sure. When I was painting professionally, it seemed liked the dust found a way onto the horizntal surfaces such as the hoods and tops of the cars. I would often have to color sand and buff a dust nib out. Very rarely had dust on the sides. Gravity still works to pull a dust particle onto the big flat surfaces. They look huge when one puts a show car shine on it.
Quick question: what was the aerosol can near the end of the video? You didn't mention what that was. Curious.
Thanks - this will answer your ? about the aerosol can. You might like this horizontal panel - can't get dust in this 'cause you can't buff - th-cam.com/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/w-d-xo.html I had a few specs actually but not that many :)
Jerry you should have been a hand model
Thanks - not really proud of my hands actually - they're pretty beat up and unkept 😔
Perfect finish as always. So how long in between each coat of clear?
It depends on temperature, but it doesn't take long at all for it to tack up. When in doubt, I will touch a masked off section that has clear on it to see if it's tacky enough for the next coat. Also they make different "speeds" of hardener, so for instance if you're working in colder weather you could use a "fast hardener", or if it's hot you'd want a "slow" hardener. Same goes for reducers. You don't generally use reducer in clear, but you do in basecoat and primers(sometimes LOL).
@steven-ky2ps Thank you ! Wasn't sure if it's supposed to be tacky or fully cured
Steven makes some good points. I set my watch for 10 minutes and try to stay in the house - have a coffee or something 'else I'll go out there and screw with it - mess something up. 👍🍻😊
Great information nice job keep up the good work and have a great weekend
You're welcome - I appreciate the kind words - you too. 👍🎃😊
Very nice
Hi Jerry, awesome vid, have a great weekend bud :)
Thanks GM - enjoy your weekend too👍🎃😊
Very nice. Thank you.
You're welcome - have a good weekend:)
@@LakesideAutobody You and your family also.
My rattle can clear coat is making my gloss blac base coat wrinkle/bubble, what am I doing wrong?
It's probably lacquer based clear. Make sure you are using enamel. Let me know what you find out :)
That came out gorgeous! BTW, the video title doesn't do it justice - there's a whole lot more you're showing us here than just how to get it dust free. At the same time, you showed that I need to up my game in the dust-prep part of the job. I've always figured any specs in the paint came from dust in the air.
Thanks so much - I really appreciate the kind words. I used to get frustrated with dirt in jobs even in paint booths till one day I wiped the panels with my hand just before painting and felt tons of specks and dust - the panels are magnetized and attract dirt- you have to get them spotless before the first coat.👍🎃😊
Also, cannot tell, but did you sand the entire front door?
Scuffed it with the grey scuff pad - you can get away with using the red too actually. You won't see the fine scratches through the clear 👍
nice to see that paint job, and you didnt speed the vid up where it most counted when i needed to see.
please say about your breathing apparatus, id like to know . thanks again mate!
I'm really glad to hear that - that's exactly why I didn't speed it up. The mask I use is in the video description. Changing them out often is the key to safety - folks keep the same mask for years and the charcoal filter gets saturated - not good. You shouldn't smell anything when you have a fresh one on 🎃👍😊
So do you do your final spraying in the same area you use to sand and do body work?
Yes. Don't worry about the environment at all - unless you're outside and wind is kicking up dust, etc. You can paint in a barn if no one is kicking up dust and the surface was spotless before the first coat. Promise :)
Hey Jerry, how tacky is the clear when put down the second coat. Do you wait past when it is still stringy on to the glove when you touch (checking on the tape beside the panel of course)? Do you wait longer so clear is dryer for coat 3?
Thanks!
I set my watch for 10 minutes (70 degrees or hotter). Same with basecoat. You're right on though - you'll want the previous coat to be at least tacky dry (not too stringy) before the next coat. Sometimes on the last coat you can double coat to make sure everything is wet but be careful 👍
Wow.
👍🏈😊
A long time ago in the '70's a shop I worked at as a kid used a product called Gonz or Gone-z to get rid of the wax and oil residue. It was basically naptha which is like lighter fluid. I had a guy that did painting and bodywork on the side paint my car when I was in the Navy (mid '80's). There was a lot of trash on the deck lid, which might be able t o be buffed or corrected. He painted it in a barn and said the stuff came off the rafters or ceiling (he said). Actually, I wouldn't have cared as much about that as the fact he picked the WRONG shade of green metallic. There were 2 green codes that year. I'm betting he didn't check and guessed and picked the wrong one.
So one side of the car was a different shade of green? I guess you only look at one side at a time so hey 👍🍻😊
@LakesideAutobody no. He repainted the whole car. Jambs and all. Yah, to clarify, the guy was a welder and worked for the state highway department, but did bodywork and painting as a 'side' job.
@@LakesideAutobody I would have been happy if it was only a spot repair. You can't really tell the original color with out some digging or looking at the paint code. He did the whole shooting match. Trunk, under the deck lid, jambs, underhood, firewall, fender sides. Basically a whole color change I didn't want because he probably didn't want to waste the paint after he figured out the screwup, if it was before he shot it. I would have ate the difference just not to have to fix it now. Paint back then (1986) was under $100 a gallon. Way under. Just plain Acrylic enamel.
What's a good cheap WnG remover right now?I had been using a can of Acetone I got the better part of ten years ago but now with prices of things I don't feel like going that route.
A lot of folks on YT have been using rubbing alcohol - I've used it on plastic bumpers and never had an issue. Used it on other stuff too - no issues. I've used mineral spirits, reducer, and acetone before too - no problems. Maybe try EBAY - UPOL, etc.
The real wax and grease remover smells just like mineral spirits. That's what I use. It's a mild chemical evaporates really slowly which is what you want.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry.
Hey Jerry I just wanted to say I really enjoy your content-your technique is spot-on, and I always pick up something new from your videos. I’d love to send you a few of our automotive paint prep products to try out. If you’re interested, let me know-I think it’d be great to collaborate sometime down the road. Thanks for all the awesome work you share
Thanks so much! I'm always open to trying new products. You can email me if you want schoolvideolibrary at gmail - Jerry
good job, looks like its beerthirty sir
Thanks YY 👍🍺🍺🍺
Po odmuchaniu auta pył unosi się w pomieszczeniu a filtry kabinowe są niedoskonałe. Proponuje zakupić za jakieś 250 usd domowy oczyszczacz powietrza z filtrem HEPA a wyłączyć wentylację kabinową. Filtr HEPA w ciągu kilkunastu minut powinien oczyścić powietrze z drobinek do 2 micronów.😅 Można lakierować!
Dobry pomysł, przyjacielu. Jak wygląda życie w Polsce? 👍🍻😊
@LakesideAutobody coraz lepiej choć teraz mamy rząd lewacki i proniemieckie. Mimo to pamiętam czas komunizmu i potem dużego bezrobocia, wejścia do UE. Dziś do pracy przyjeżdżają tu ludzie z całego świata a coraz więcej Polaków wraca do ojczyzny bo jak mówią że dziś Ameryka w Polsce. Warszawa wygląda jak mały Nowy Jork i praca jest a w starej UE ludzie nie mają pracy jak np Italia czy Hiszpania i niektórzy tu przyjeżdżają... Dawniej to było nie do pomyślenia. To tak jakby z USA wyjeżdżali do Meksyku! Pozdrawiam.
@LakesideAutobody coraz lepiej. Warszawa to taki mały Nowy Jork a ludzie wracają do kraju, wielu cudzoziemców tu przyjeżdża za pracą nawet z Europy co 20 lat temu przy wysokim bezrobociu było niemożliwe. Lakiernik zarabia ok 50 USD na godzinę co w porównaniu z innymi zawodami to sporo. Ale tu Europa, musisz mieć kabinę bo ci zakład zamkną😅
You have explained to me in the past, still bows my mind that you don't take the handles and belt mouldings off. That name plate is not that expensive either. Laugh out loud. Thats for the lesson
@@billsmith-ms9pu
First thing I noticed. I'm not one to cut someone down, but there are so many red flags in this video. I couldn't bring myself to paint this job like that.
You're welcome 😊 A couple bosses of mine wanted us to tape everything off to eliminate messing it up putting it together. I loved it - un mask, wash and send it. No chance of scratching. I promise you'll scratch it, or mess up the paint more often than not 👍
@@LakesideAutobody
Very, very rare occasion of repaint due to reassembly in the shops I've worked at. Haven't painted an assembled car in 25 years. To each his own I guess.
@@class5bodyworks What red flags, we all do it different. I was tought to R@I bumpers, belt mldngs, ects, before paint. Some learn different.
@@billsmith-ms9pu
I've painted everything detrimmed for the past 25 years also. I understand that people learn different techniques. The red flags here are painting around handles, mouldings and emblems running a risk of runs, de-lam or dry paint behind the handles. Tell me how to make that look presentable if you have a run flowing off an emblem. Not to mention the next guy who inherits that mess when he does it properly and finds all these tape lines when it's detrimmed. I know. I've been there. Cleaning up this mess when working 100% commission. These procedures are old school and should not be promoted in videos like they are industry standards. People that view these how to videos should learn the correct way which this is not.
By the way, your original post confirms everything I posted. I was agreeing with you. Check your original post and my original reply again. I thought we're on the same page. 🙄
Always appreciate the videos but being in the trade myself for 30 years, I can tell your a body man and definitely not a painter 😆to many applicaton errors here to note lol. Main one being painting edge to edge and not over lapping panels.
Never had any issues spraying that way - along with a smaller pattern - smaller patterns worked great for eliminating mottling in single stage paints -we'd spray from further back to create a crop dusting effect - bingo - no blotchy silvers, etc. Thanks for the comment Kenny - have a good weekend.
@@AdamA-pm3yn Am sure he knows there’s absolutely no malice intended with that comment there. He is a top class body man, far more skills than I cld ever dream off. Iam a painter. Have bein taught how to paint that’s it. I would say the same to a pal or work colleague. Nothing wrong with his work wat so ever, the application process isn’t how we get taught or teach for multiple reasons. Over the years av learned the hard way myself. We all know he does good work, hense av bein subscribed since day 1.
This guy is lost, the guy that painted cars where I was at used to touch the panels like this cat and where there was only cleared in the blends areas his handprint would appear after about one month, looked like a milky ghost of his hand including fingerprints that had to be repainted when he was told stop touching the panel the problem disappeared, never touch the panel once it has been solvent cleaned, NEVER, you risk transferring body acid that eats through the finish. Most of these guys go in and out of the booth when putting coats down how would you go and rewipe a panel that has one coat on??? Its fresh paint and stickier than glue, this old boy is lost, paint is a plastic product and gets statically charged by the air any dust on the person or the area gets drawn statically even Mr Clean ain't that clean, tell him to spray a large hood and you will see it will be full of dirt the sides are much more forgiving..
Sorry my friend, TV, blogs, and magazines steer you wrong. - you'll have o work in a body shop if you want the truth. Here's the hood you asked for - th-cam.com/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/w-d-xo.html 😁
@@marcumexe Where's your TH-cam channel?