Captain! We've managed to re-couple the forward impulse couplings however the magnetic interlock power subsystems are shot! We need more time to re-rout power before we can get underway!
Hey @AvE ! I am a John Deere Product Engineer II (Electrical Engineer by training), that works on these products in Horicon, WI. I saw @Jackattack left some good comments, here it is in shorter form. TLDR for engaging 4WD on your machine: 1. 4WD Switch ON 2. wheel speed =2300 Longer Comment: Your gator is pre-MY21 (when the park position was introduced in the transmission, and 4WD updates were made). So your 4WD system is "On-Demand"...which is marketing speak for it works when the rear wheels are already spinning, presumably when you would be slipping. Not as intuitive as you first thought ehh? We changed this in Model Year 21 with a new 4WD engagement mechanism and solenoid, so when you click the switch it goes into 4WD as long as you are traveling at a slow enough speed for engagement. 1min 43sec into the MY21 announcement video: th-cam.com/video/q9XeTe9UVdk/w-d-xo.html For 4WD engagement on YOUR MACHINE and pre-MY21 gators with 4WD: 1. 4WD Switch ON 2. wheel speed =2300 Seeing ~2V on the connector with no-load connected is normal as the controller checks inputs and outputs. So to test your 4WD engagement in your current setup (all wheels off the ground like I saw, machine safe and otherwise supported/restrained), with the solenoid plugged in to the original harness, press the accelerator when its in gear and 4WD switch is ON. I think you will see it kick in around 3mph or when the engine gets above 2300RPM. From MY21 onwards however the engagement solenoid, mechanics, and logic were updated so you can engage 4WD at 0 wheel speed when you are just parked idling before you take off, due to customer feedback. #JohnDeereEmployee #itscompanypolicytoclearlyidentifyourselvesonsocialmedia #loveyourvideos #Idonthashtagmuchsothisisnewtome
@Captain MufDyven Sounds like he didn't want to pay for OSHA basics. Bottom line and all that. Greedy bastard. Turns out that the time spent removing safety guards is actually *cheaper* than the cost of medical bills, liability, unemployment, and lawsuits. Who knew?
Guess who's sticker shipment is now gonna show up with them stuck back to back with a nice note that says "sorry about the packing technique, I was unexpectedly short on time, almost never happens!" 🤣👍
I was trained from an early age how to aim, and pay attention. Especially to not shine in the mechanics eyes. Six decades of experience tells me how much my Dad taught me.
Whoa the flashbacks... " Hold that still! Now give me the wrench,... No the other one!" Working with dad was a good primer for reading minds, which of course is a prerequisite for dealing with the better half later in life. He was teaching valuable life lessons and I didn't know it.
If I wanted the light in my eyes, I would look right at the damn thing. Where my hands are ,boy... bring me a 9/16" and tri quarter. Learnt my fractions by kindergarten. He fixed or made everything from steam power to caterpillars. Gramps made me what I proffers to be today. Fabricobler, millwright, all around handy dude. And if I'm paid, my projects always turn out...my own stuff at home farm...more often than not...generally speaking.
From t'net...correct one-possible..... Theory of Operation: The 4WD function is an electromechanical system that uses logic control to activate or deactivate the system. When the 4WD switch is pressed, battery voltage is sent to the display panel (J2, pin E) which illuminates the 4WD indicator light. When the 4WD switch is pressed, battery voltage is also sent to the relay module (J3, pin 8 - “4WD switch input”). The relay module then provides a path to ground (J3, pin 14 - “4WD solenoid driver”) to the EMFWD lock solenoid. This engages the solenoid and 4WD. If machine ground speed exceeds approximately 9 mph, the relay module will not allow the 4WD driver signal and 4WD will not engage until ground speed is reduced. However, if 4WD is engaged under 9 mph, it will remain engaged after that speed is exceeded.
MFWD Service Kit Operation and Wiring Schematics Theory of Operation Pressing the brake pedal opens brake switch contacts B-D, interrupting the signal between the vehicle harness and the MFWD solenoid. Flyback diode MFWDC-97 affords protection from inductive kickback.
Theory of Operation Pressing the throttle opens throttle switch contacts B-D and removes the voltage (high signal) from throttle delay module pin 5, triggering the delay timer. After 1 sec. of no voltage (low signal), the timer activates the delay module relay. This action completes the connection between the vehicle harness and the MFWD solenoid. Releasing the accelerator pedal immediately turns off the relay and resets the module timer. Flyback diode MFWDC-97 affords protection from inductive kickback. The ground circuit of harness AM147221 is isolated from the MFWD solenoid connections. This change allows the service kit to be compatible with early production vehicles that use a low-side connection to activate the MFWD solenoid.
4WD Drive Circuit Operation (EMFWD) (SN -060000) Function: To control the 4WD drive function as well as display a LCD symbol to alert the operator of the 4WD engagement status. Operating Conditions: •Key switch in run position •Transmission in gear •MFWD switch in the engaged position •4WD engagement sensing switch on •Machinemustbetravelingapproximately9mphorles s. Theory of Operation: The 4WD function is an electromechanical system that uses logic control to activate or deactivate the system. When the 4WD switch is pressed, battery voltage is sent to the display panel (J2, pin E) which illuminates the 4WD indicator light. When the 4WD switch is pressed, battery voltage is also sent to the relay module (J3, pin 8 - “4WD switch input”). The relay module then provides a path to ground (J3, pin 14 - “4WD solenoid driver”) to the EMFWD lock solenoid. This engages the solenoid and 4WD. If machine ground speed exceeds approximately 9 mph, the relay module will not allow the 4WD driver signal and 4WD will not engage until ground speed is reduced. However, if 4WD is engaged under 9 mph, it will remain engaged after that speed is exceeded.
4WD Drive Circuit Operation (EMFWD) (SN 060001-080000) Function: To control the 4WD drive function as well as display an LCD symbol to alert the operator of the 4WD engagement status. Operating Conditions: •Key switch in run position •Transmission in gear •MFWD switch in on position •Machinemustbetravelingapproximately9mphorles s. Theory of Operation: The 4WD function is an electromechanical system that useslogiccontroltoactivateordeactivate4WDoperation . A magnetic pickup sensor mounted on the transaxle generates the pulses used by the relay module to calculate ground speed. Placing the 4WD switch in the on position sends a “High” (battery voltage) signal to the relay module (J1, pin 12 4WD switch input). Logic inside the module compares the “request” for 4WD operation to the measured ground speed. If the logic determines that conditions are met, the relay module then provides battery voltage (J1, pin 15 - “4WD solenoid driver”) to engage the EMFWD lock solenoid and activate the 4WD icon on the display panel. If machine ground speed exceeds approximately 9 mph, the relay module will not allow the 4WD driver signal and 4WD will not engage until ground speed is reduced. However, if 4WD is engaged under 9 mph, it will remain engaged after that speed is exceeded. Schematic Components A1 - Relay Module A2 - Display Panel A3 - ECU B30 - Speed Sensor G1 - Battery S3 - Key Switch S34 - 4WD Switch Y35 - EMFWD Lock Solenoid
I fix a lot of ATV's and such. Usually when I get a voltage issue like that, it tends to be one of three things. 1. Bad ground connection in the offending circuit. 2. Bad switch contacts. 3. Water ingress on a connector in the circuit.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 my guess is 1 because of 3 if the power side was bad you would measure 0 v. And the mouse nest is also a clue that maybe one of these made some tiny tooth marks so water could get in and broke the neg line.
Yep I have a odd intermittent PTO solenoid on a tractor that started as a weak ground,(took a while to find it because it was hidden and very quiet unless using motion to get it to eventually engage) over time either the partial engagement or low voltage permanently damaged the solenoid magnet or alignment im guessing...😐 Its now a manually activated push/pull PTO via that old solenoid because that can wait till next year... - now 6 years ago 😁👍
It was an emotional rollercoaster. I particularly enjoyed the part which highlighted the importance of using quality paint products on critical support structures.
Best way to get even with someone is to give Styrofoam to their kids.... I applaud the grace you afforded the little guy. And thanks for the adventure with the gator, it's always fun to armchair troubleshoot!
Children + Glitter should be considered a WMD 🤣 (sadly they'll have to wait a few years to end up below us on all the new lists... I just wanna know who the thousands of people signing up for new made up job openings are 🤷♂️) Between all the letter agency expansions they need like 10,000 people specifically with Military/Law Enforcement training to fill the roles... Who is signing up for that, that can also pass evaluation standards, especially mental? 🤔 Anyhow remember when everyone's house had carpet in damn near every room... One glitter incident was like nuclear fallout until the house was remodeled and the carpets changed out 😄👍
I was half expecting the root cause of the problem to be that it lost its Wifi settings, which meant it couldn't download an updated 4WD DRM license, so the 4WD stopped when the old license expired. Glad to see it was something a little more traditional.
Since you're getting partial voltage, the next step is to check at that 2WD/4WD switch- input should be 12V, output should be 0V or 12V depending on position. If your input is 12V and output is still 3, your pixies are getting clogged in the switch like Tinkerbell through the keyhole. Doesn't happen often, but it happens. And if you're only getting a 3V input to the switch, run a new wire off fused power and get it to the input for that switch, and it should work Edit because autocorrect tried facking with my grammar- as if I don't know the difference between my "your"s and "you're"s
I used to work for deere. I don’t remember if those newer model gators were this way or not but they have a sequence in order for the 4wd to engage. If I remember right you have to have the 4wd switch on and give it throttle for the ECM to energize the solenoid. There may be a certain mph involved too. I wish I still had access to service advisor but I do not. Put your meter on the solenoid connector and drive it with the 4wd switch engaged and see if you get power when you give it throttle
Did I seriously just watch 12 minutes of him sleuthing out his repair? And did I thoroughly enjoy it? As I always do? Keep it up AVE. Thanks for being you. From all the crap You Tube tries to get me to choke down, yours is the good stuff.
Mighty fine parenting teaching brother bear responsibility with a helping hand - With Christmas coming up just thought I'd say the festive videos by the fire last year were awesome! Cheers
Holy crap does time ever fly. I remember when chicken was a chickadee and when brother bear was just an idea. Look at that fella. Almost old enough to hold a flashlight. Father Time comes for us all!
Finds a grease fitting he didn't know about. With absolutely no guilt in his voice. A true man of Zen. I get a needle in my eye feeling looking at a spline that dry.
Thanks for the PTSD relapse, same for me with the addition of 6 trips to the basement to find the tool, on the last trip having heard all the explicatives... it was in the garage but somehow my fault :)
The next manual will state "check set screws on bearings on driveshafts at 100 hour intervals" much easier than making something of proper strength the first time, it will be sent out to the dealerships as a page that they glue over the original page in the manual, or since it's probably online only accessible through a secret back door portal, it will be changed and no one will ever know it wasn't there in the first place. There's your million doll hair idea, service manual Wikipedia, the service writers would edit them everyday adding multipliers to the time tables and adding, nonsensical yet, important sounding things to the 100hr service. And adding disclaimers like "If the date and hours are written on the oil filter with a sharpie, the warranty is null and void, as there could be an issue of the alcohol in the ink bleeding through the steel and thus contaminating the oil. I was a mechanic, my favorite thing was when they swapped out the old manuals for the "updated" one, thus they sold, at a discount, the manual that had the notes from the shop mechanics in it.
8:51 ... Been watching AvE for many years and have had many a chuckle. Several things over the years have been said that reminded me of my father(passed '07 and I know would have loved the no BS of this channel) But this comment, as I'm sure did with many, made me think, remember and laugh!!! "Happy memories" indeed! Thank you! and 9:26 ... LOL!!!
That "I'll help you" at the end was preceded by the briefest of pauses, and delivered with a subtle tone of voice that I recognise. It's the old brainbox calculating the effectiveness of teaching the lad he has to tidy up after himself, or "helping" so you know it'll be done properly.
Check with a lamp as that 3 volts could well be a ghost voltage, the number of times I have seen that when testing with a digital meter, why they invented low z on some meters. If ghost voltage it is most likely a fuse or relay.
When I see a Deutsch connector on a solenoid, I think PWM. Is the confuser actually supplying 12v at 40% duty and the multi meter is doing math? Either way, supplying an actual load to the circuit is a good recommendation.
Ah that glorious trip down memory alley. I may be wrong but its since dads stopped fixing things and roaring at the wee torchbearers that the world went insane.
It is important to note that at Deere we use a "smart" 4wd which only engages when it feels it needs to. That means that if you put it all four wheels in the air, only two will turn.
Many of these electronic 4WD systems won't engage the front diff until there is wheel slip sensed on the rear wheels. You might want to check it out by driving it again on loose gravel to see if the front diff engages when you mash the go fast pedal. The solenoid is probably controlled by the ECU.
The first time you yelled about holding the light still, I jumped, literally. Took me back in time about 54 years. Thanks, I think or firetruck you, maybe.
It's possible the common grounding point where the negative side of that solenoid plug ties off at is corroded or just plain old loose from vibration. That's why you're not getting a full 12v across that plug. It'd be interesting to see what the voltage was while referencing directly to the battery neg terminal.
I second the grounding issue. I had really strange trailer light problems on the RV this summer. Measured 6V instead of 12 at the trailer connector, both directionals came on for left turn, behavior changed when lights were on, real hair puller. RV tech in Dawson Creek heard my list of symptoms, finished his coffee, came out and added a ground wire from the directional light to frame ground and everything started working.
Just Ohm out the line from the return side of the connector to chassis. If not 0 then find out where the problem is from there. Might need to do the same on the hot side. But on the hot side it's probably best to unhook the battery to save your meter.
I ask the same question after a hard day in the shop too Brother Bear. Unfortunately, I am the only one working in the shop, so yes I do have to clean it up, and all by myself. Fortunately, I am also the only one who has to wade through the junk and dig through piles of tools I was too "busy" to put away. I could put that healing bench to shame some days.
Check derr switch I tells ya, corrosion on the pins will do this and as others have suggested check the earth pin to the battery for le resistance. Side note, the diff lock locks the axles and the power divider/transfer case is what gives you 4wd. I got a little confuser with some of the double dutch.
3ish VDC can be either one of two things. Bad ground (high probability. Check to known good/battery ground) or a case of the green crusties/bad pin crimp etc on the positive side. Use the Schwartz!
I used to drive these at work. Expensive vehicles. Did the job, but work "limited" the speed with bolts under the pedals, meaning we could never run them even halfway open, caused some issues.
(Aooogah!) "Not that one." "Keep your Richard in a bad habit." I'll likely never work on any mechanical stuff again (getting old sucks...) but watching these videos is hilarious.
My buddy has a Kawasaki Mule which runs great, but for some reason he's plastered it with John Deere stickers, he reckons it helps performance. I wonder if it works the other way around?
Biggest problems I always had with JD's in service were always electrical. I cant imagine the engineer team for the side by side market is any better than there heavy equipment teams. Its gonna suck but that grass fire waiting to happen and the 3 volt drain is making think theres a shorted wire there.
Voltage drop test should figure this one out. With the circuit plugged back together and some back probing (no laughing at the back) with the system live you should have 12v (assuming it's a 12v circuit) on the live all the way from the fuse to the solenoid. As the solenoid is the only consumer on the circuit it should then read 0v after the solenoid. It it's reading 3v before the solenoid (again, the system needs to be fully connected) then 9v is been used to push through a point of resistance before the solenoid on the live side, if it's 3v after the solenoid then 3v is needed to push through a bad earth. Either way, the solenoid is getting starved of pixies but you'll know which side of the circuit to look at
As a John Deere Engineering Supervisor, I've sent @Jackattack an application for employment. As he would be the only one on the team that can read, he will be moved up to a senior position over a group that I have hand selected for him! The small bearing was tested against a larger one and lost but its cheaper so we ran with it. Regards to Ms. Babydoll.
Does that switch on the dash go direct to the solenoid? Or through the ECM? If straight to the solenoid, then I’d make sure the contacts in that switch are good.
Not sure how they do it in those miniature vehicles, but I'm wondering if it could be a grounding issue... Is it also 3v in the fuse box? Does the wiring from the solenoid run all the way back to the switch/fuse panel?
I couldn't agree more. You can test continuity from the solenoid connector, each side to ground, and each side to either the relay slot or switch. One of those will point you in the right direction. The other test, is again at the solenoid connector. Test both leads to ground for voltage. One ought to be zero -- test that side to battery +. Got 12volts? Then the opposite lead to ground WITH the 4x4 switch turned on. got 12volts? This will show you where to look next.
I had a similar problem with a forklift I bought. The reverse solenoid always had about 3V going through it. I could start it up and go forward no problem, but if I put it in reverse I couldn't go forward again without shutting it off. The 3V was enough to hold the solenoid when it was disengaged, so both the forward and reverse were open at the same time. It turned out it was getting power from the reverse lights, and with the solenoid coil acting as the other half of a voltage divider that was explaining the 3V. I didn't feel like chasing the wires all around, so I just wired the reverse solenoid directly into the reverse relay and it fixed it right up. Reverse lights even work.
Your videos, are the only thing guaranteed to make me laugh, just like that projectfarm dude with his ‘tism graphics, are able to engage me thoroughly. Thanks Man!
Nice to hear Little Dude chiming in. My daughter and I would love a Chickadee update. As it happens, the only videos she and I bond over these days are Chickadee Engineering or Beavis and Butthead.
You did better than I would have. I'd have lit the thing on fire and cried arson to the insurance company. Though with things the way they are today the insurance company would say they don't cover mostly peaceful protests.
Might be so obvious that you already tried it... But did you try to engage it with it running? Maybe it will only energize while running or at least on position. Not privy to John Deere stuff personally but worth a try.
Sure reminded me of my boat after its been sat for a month. Ground goes south, voltages are puny.... 3 - 4 volts until suddenly.... full voltage again - lights come on, switches work, etc.
Vehicle brain boxes usually create more problems than they solve. And they make trouble shooting twice as hard. However, I would probably check the ground first. And if it's still a brain box problem, bypass it and put a relay after the switch straight to the solenoid.
Absolutely fascinating. I enjoy your video entries so much that I refuse to skip any of the commercials. Of course that’s usually the time I get up to run for another cup of coffee.😂
Always enjoy following along thanks for sharing your daily life 😀 and stories of keeping equipment verking 😂🤣👍 good information is key .... some models may vary not necessarily as seen in picture!
Captain! We've managed to re-couple the forward impulse couplings however the magnetic interlock power subsystems are shot! We need more time to re-rout power before we can get underway!
In ST:NG, they always simply realignd the deflector array and emit tachyon particles. Those were simpler spaceships back then.
It the dylithium crystals..
Going to try to refuckulate the carbonater and land on Juniper for some space weed.
@@scrout good one, just beat me to that!!!
Quickly give her a shot of cosby sauce and redline it
Hey @AvE !
I am a John Deere Product Engineer II (Electrical Engineer by training), that works on these products in Horicon, WI. I saw @Jackattack left some good comments, here it is in shorter form. TLDR for engaging 4WD on your machine:
1. 4WD Switch ON
2. wheel speed =2300
Longer Comment:
Your gator is pre-MY21 (when the park position was introduced in the transmission, and 4WD updates were made). So your 4WD system is "On-Demand"...which is marketing speak for it works when the rear wheels are already spinning, presumably when you would be slipping.
Not as intuitive as you first thought ehh? We changed this in Model Year 21 with a new 4WD engagement mechanism and solenoid, so when you click the switch it goes into 4WD as long as you are traveling at a slow enough speed for engagement. 1min 43sec into the MY21 announcement video: th-cam.com/video/q9XeTe9UVdk/w-d-xo.html
For 4WD engagement on YOUR MACHINE and pre-MY21 gators with 4WD:
1. 4WD Switch ON
2. wheel speed =2300
Seeing ~2V on the connector with no-load connected is normal as the controller checks inputs and outputs.
So to test your 4WD engagement in your current setup (all wheels off the ground like I saw, machine safe and otherwise supported/restrained), with the solenoid plugged in to the original harness, press the accelerator when its in gear and 4WD switch is ON. I think you will see it kick in around 3mph or when the engine gets above 2300RPM.
From MY21 onwards however the engagement solenoid, mechanics, and logic were updated so you can engage 4WD at 0 wheel speed when you are just parked idling before you take off, due to customer feedback.
#JohnDeereEmployee
#itscompanypolicytoclearlyidentifyourselvesonsocialmedia
#loveyourvideos
#Idonthashtagmuchsothisisnewtome
I gave this a thumbs up so that he has a better chance of seeing it.. and to ask you how it feels to work for the Empire?
That is a helpful post!
The question is why make such a complicated system..why not just a toggle on the dash, on or off,,no need for minimum or max speeds, etc etc
Joe! Funny to find you on this posting! :-) How's it going? Tell John and John and Zach and Les that I said, "Hi!"
Obligatory engagement comment, to boost the OP comment's position in people's feed!!!!!!??????!!!😀😁😉
#engagement
#greatcomments
#johndeere
Dave's rule...The stranger the electrical problem is the more likely it's a ground issue
Did you test straight to ground or through harness ground?
Who is dave? You?
Specially with a funky voltage.
Yeah, seems about right. And comparing hot to a known, good ground as well as the harness ground is always a good idea
Said me a Cherokee owner without a factory temp gauge.
My advise... if you leave the access panels off... you wont have to take them off next time.
Found the guy who works at the Quick Lube.
Won't hold the grass fire against the JD
But it will take you longer to pressure wash/ pick out the caked mud from the soft undersides the panels once protected.
@Captain MufDyven Sounds like he didn't want to pay for OSHA basics. Bottom line and all that. Greedy bastard.
Turns out that the time spent removing safety guards is actually *cheaper* than the cost of medical bills, liability, unemployment, and lawsuits. Who knew?
And without the panels the mice won't have a place to build their nests.
"Do I have to clean this up? By myself?" Sounds like my 5 year old 😆
"No, I'll help you." AvE has just insured that his fine son will gladly, lovingly care for him in his feeble dotage.
Actually sounds like me in my shop.
Probly not the first time youve been too hard on Babydolls gearbox.
Giggidy.
I wish this channel was a tavern sometimes. I swear we would all laugh our asses off over some cold beers. 🍻
Guess who's sticker shipment is now gonna show up with them stuck back to back with a nice note that says "sorry about the packing technique, I was unexpectedly short on time, almost never happens!" 🤣👍
@@JBAutomotive794 not been to many taverns then? Warm beers and peanuts all round!
Evidence points that he went to hard not once but twice!
After fixing JD's for years, I've found the easiest way to get at the underside is to use the chain hoist and hang them from the nose
That or an adjustable lift?
This is for the vehicles or the engineers who designed them?
@@cerealport2726 As an JD employee i firmly agree.
@@cerealport2726 vehicles, although not putting a harder lift bar on the tractors when the deck has bronze pins has made me want to set people on fire
@@handyman75657 in for a penny, might as well go full send when picking it up
Excellent diagnostic work, thanks for taking us along. I can't believe how big Brother Bear is now.
Yes… I remember when he was born and when I saw him I said no way!!
I was thinking the same thing. They grow up fast.
Oh my the memories brought back by a man screaming about my flashlight skills
I was trained from an early age how to aim, and pay attention. Especially to not shine in the mechanics eyes. Six decades of experience tells me how much my Dad taught me.
Dad's disappointment intensifies...
I was the best light holding apprentice ever = double the tirade & profanity as I age...... 8^)
Whoa the flashbacks... " Hold that still! Now give me the wrench,... No the other one!" Working with dad was a good primer for reading minds, which of course is a prerequisite for dealing with the better half later in life. He was teaching valuable life lessons and I didn't know it.
This. Exactly this.
And yet we always hung around them waiting for the next order…..Memories.
This for sure
"I'll help you" hahaha, you're a good dad, very patient and kind. And hilarious
Warmed me cockles, did that.
If I wanted the light in my eyes, I would look right at the damn thing. Where my hands are ,boy... bring me a 9/16" and tri quarter.
Learnt my fractions by kindergarten.
He fixed or made everything from steam power to caterpillars.
Gramps made me what I proffers to be today.
Fabricobler, millwright, all around handy dude. And if I'm paid, my projects always turn out...my own stuff at home farm...more often than not...generally speaking.
From t'net...correct one-possible.....
Theory of Operation: The 4WD function is an electromechanical system that uses logic control to activate or deactivate the system.
When the 4WD switch is pressed, battery voltage is sent to the display panel (J2, pin E) which illuminates the 4WD indicator light. When the 4WD switch is pressed, battery voltage is also sent to the relay module (J3, pin 8 - “4WD switch input”). The relay module then provides a path to ground (J3, pin 14 - “4WD solenoid driver”) to the EMFWD lock solenoid. This engages the solenoid and 4WD. If machine ground speed exceeds approximately 9 mph, the relay module will not allow the 4WD driver signal and 4WD will not engage until ground speed is reduced. However, if 4WD is engaged under 9 mph, it will remain engaged after that speed is exceeded.
Thank you! Since 4wd light illuminates, I will re-check the relays and the ground.
MFWD Service Kit Operation and Wiring Schematics
Theory of Operation Pressing the brake pedal opens brake switch contacts B-D, interrupting the signal between the vehicle harness
and the MFWD solenoid. Flyback diode MFWDC-97 affords protection from inductive kickback.
Theory of Operation Pressing the throttle opens throttle switch contacts B-D and removes the voltage (high signal) from throttle delay module pin 5, triggering the delay timer. After 1 sec. of no voltage (low signal), the timer activates the delay module relay. This action completes the connection between the vehicle harness and the MFWD solenoid. Releasing the accelerator pedal immediately turns off the relay and resets the module timer. Flyback diode MFWDC-97 affords protection from inductive kickback. The ground circuit of harness AM147221 is isolated from the MFWD solenoid connections. This change allows the service kit to be compatible with early production vehicles that use a low-side connection to activate the MFWD solenoid.
4WD Drive Circuit Operation (EMFWD) (SN -060000) Function: To control the 4WD drive function as well as display a LCD symbol to alert the operator of the 4WD engagement status. Operating Conditions: •Key switch in run position •Transmission in gear •MFWD switch in the engaged position •4WD engagement sensing switch on •Machinemustbetravelingapproximately9mphorles s. Theory of Operation: The 4WD function is an electromechanical system that uses logic control to activate or deactivate the system.
When the 4WD switch is pressed, battery voltage is sent to the display panel (J2, pin E) which illuminates the 4WD indicator light. When the 4WD switch is pressed, battery voltage is also sent to the relay module (J3, pin 8 - “4WD switch input”). The relay module then provides a path to ground (J3, pin 14 - “4WD solenoid driver”) to the EMFWD lock solenoid. This engages the solenoid and 4WD. If machine ground speed exceeds approximately 9 mph, the relay module will not allow the 4WD driver signal and 4WD will not engage until ground speed is reduced. However, if 4WD is engaged under 9 mph, it will remain engaged after that speed is exceeded.
4WD Drive Circuit Operation (EMFWD) (SN 060001-080000) Function: To control the 4WD drive function as well as display an LCD symbol to alert the operator of the 4WD engagement status. Operating Conditions: •Key switch in run position •Transmission in gear •MFWD switch in on position •Machinemustbetravelingapproximately9mphorles s. Theory of Operation: The 4WD function is an electromechanical system that useslogiccontroltoactivateordeactivate4WDoperation . A magnetic pickup sensor mounted on the transaxle generates the pulses used by the relay module to calculate ground speed. Placing the 4WD switch in the on position sends a “High” (battery voltage) signal to the relay module (J1, pin 12 4WD switch input). Logic inside the module compares the “request” for 4WD operation to the measured ground speed. If the logic determines that conditions are met, the relay module then provides battery voltage (J1, pin 15 - “4WD solenoid driver”) to engage the EMFWD lock solenoid and activate the 4WD icon on the display panel. If machine ground speed exceeds approximately 9 mph, the relay module will not allow the 4WD driver signal and 4WD will not engage until ground speed is reduced. However, if 4WD is engaged under 9 mph, it will remain engaged after that speed is exceeded. Schematic Components A1 - Relay Module A2 - Display Panel A3 - ECU B30 - Speed Sensor G1 - Battery S3 - Key Switch S34 - 4WD Switch Y35 - EMFWD Lock Solenoid
I fix a lot of ATV's and such. Usually when I get a voltage issue like that, it tends to be one of three things.
1. Bad ground connection in the offending circuit.
2. Bad switch contacts.
3. Water ingress on a connector in the circuit.
Thank you!
@@arduinoversusevil2025 my guess is 1 because of 3 if the power side was bad you would measure 0 v. And the mouse nest is also a clue that maybe one of these made some tiny tooth marks so water could get in and broke the neg line.
With all of the evidence of the freeloaders living inside, maybe it can be something as simple as a chewed wire.
Yep I have a odd intermittent PTO solenoid on a tractor that started as a weak ground,(took a while to find it because it was hidden and very quiet unless using motion to get it to eventually engage) over time either the partial engagement or low voltage permanently damaged the solenoid magnet or alignment im guessing...😐 Its now a manually activated push/pull PTO via that old solenoid because that can wait till next year... - now 6 years ago 😁👍
My moneys on 1 but caused by three, the stealership would tell ya ya need a new machine
They never had these kind of problems with the lunar rover 😉
You could have a reliable vehicle if you are willing to pay 5 million per vehicle. In fact, cancel that, there is one parked on the moon going free.
Because its a Willy's Jeep.
Because it wasn't metric 😜
Old tech is best tech! Yutu rover traveled 0.1km in 2013, Curiosity 9.9km currently, but Apollo 17 Rover managed 36km in 1972!
@@arduinoversusevil2025 loony rover must be due a service by now…….
It was an emotional rollercoaster. I particularly enjoyed the part which highlighted the importance of using quality paint products on critical support structures.
I remember when brother bear was just born. Seems like just yesterday. Great video you had me laughing pretty good actually at the firetruck comment.
Well did you check the voltage reservoir? Perhaps you need to add more fluid.
don't forget your muffler bearings and piston springs too!
@@Nebbia_affaraccimiei nha men you need to top up the blinker fluid to make this electron go brrrr
If you own something with no jumper wires on it do you really own it?
I'm glad you made your goodbye PG!!!! I was rolling with the "keep your Richard in a bad habit" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Best way to get even with someone is to give Styrofoam to their kids.... I applaud the grace you afforded the little guy. And thanks for the adventure with the gator, it's always fun to armchair troubleshoot!
I gave my 4 year old nephew a gift card in a refrigerator box full of packing peanuts for xmas. I was not the only one laughing.
kick-start the operation with a good dose of sugar - for those more deserving cases!
If you really hate them ... give their children glitter....
giant pixie sticks, whistles and sharpies.
Children + Glitter should be considered a WMD 🤣 (sadly they'll have to wait a few years to end up below us on all the new lists... I just wanna know who the thousands of people signing up for new made up job openings are 🤷♂️) Between all the letter agency expansions they need like 10,000 people specifically with Military/Law Enforcement training to fill the roles... Who is signing up for that, that can also pass evaluation standards, especially mental? 🤔 Anyhow remember when everyone's house had carpet in damn near every room... One glitter incident was like nuclear fallout until the house was remodeled and the carpets changed out 😄👍
I was half expecting the root cause of the problem to be that it lost its Wifi settings, which meant it couldn't download an updated 4WD DRM license, so the 4WD stopped when the old license expired. Glad to see it was something a little more traditional.
After 300 hours you have to pay a subscription to activate that feature
Since you're getting partial voltage, the next step is to check at that 2WD/4WD switch- input should be 12V, output should be 0V or 12V depending on position. If your input is 12V and output is still 3, your pixies are getting clogged in the switch like Tinkerbell through the keyhole. Doesn't happen often, but it happens. And if you're only getting a 3V input to the switch, run a new wire off fused power and get it to the input for that switch, and it should work
Edit because autocorrect tried facking with my grammar- as if I don't know the difference between my "your"s and "you're"s
Power probe is great for switch tests
Pure poetry.
I used to work for deere. I don’t remember if those newer model gators were this way or not but they have a sequence in order for the 4wd to engage. If I remember right you have to have the 4wd switch on and give it throttle for the ECM to energize the solenoid. There may be a certain mph involved too. I wish I still had access to service advisor but I do not. Put your meter on the solenoid connector and drive it with the 4wd switch engaged and see if you get power when you give it throttle
Speed sensor bad maybe?
Never would have broke If there were more plastic covers
The "hold the flashlight" line really brought back some memories 😂
And all this time I checked for continuity first because I liked to make it beep. Apples to apples I guess.
Damn night shift. Always the night shift.
It's always the fucking sparkies :P
Funny...the night shift says the same thing about the day shift. I should know. I'm the night shift...
Did I seriously just watch 12 minutes of him sleuthing out his repair? And did I thoroughly enjoy it? As I always do? Keep it up AVE. Thanks for being you. From all the crap You Tube tries to get me to choke down, yours is the good stuff.
Mighty fine parenting teaching brother bear responsibility with a helping hand - With Christmas coming up just thought I'd say the festive videos by the fire last year were awesome! Cheers
Someone once told me that a certain part of my equipment could do with being about 4 sizes bigger too.
Fuse?
Only 4 sizes, lucky guy, she told me I needed to go up 9 sizes... well fak
@@WeighedWilson it's a euphemism.
@@danielbuck85 He probably doesn't know what that word means.
just pray she meant in millimeter increments, my solution is just put a bit of angulation on the work angle, cross section appears to be thicker :)
Holy crap does time ever fly. I remember when chicken was a chickadee and when brother bear was just an idea. Look at that fella. Almost old enough to hold a flashlight.
Father Time comes for us all!
We're on to you. You only published this video to show off your prybar collection.
That comment about Fievel... An American Tail was one of my favorite movies as a kid. Remember when cartoons were still good?
Finds a grease fitting he didn't know about. With absolutely no guilt in his voice. A true man of Zen. I get a needle in my eye feeling looking at a spline that dry.
Good to see that brother bear will have his own healing bench full of regret when he grows
Thanks for the PTSD relapse, same for me with the addition of 6 trips to the basement to find the tool, on the last trip having heard all the explicatives... it was in the garage but somehow my fault :)
The next manual will state "check set screws on bearings on driveshafts at 100 hour intervals" much easier than making something of proper strength the first time, it will be sent out to the dealerships as a page that they glue over the original page in the manual, or since it's probably online only accessible through a secret back door portal, it will be changed and no one will ever know it wasn't there in the first place.
There's your million doll hair idea, service manual Wikipedia, the service writers would edit them everyday adding multipliers to the time tables and adding, nonsensical yet, important sounding things to the 100hr service. And adding disclaimers like "If the date and hours are written on the oil filter with a sharpie, the warranty is null and void, as there could be an issue of the alcohol in the ink bleeding through the steel and thus contaminating the oil.
I was a mechanic, my favorite thing was when they swapped out the old manuals for the "updated" one, thus they sold, at a discount, the manual that had the notes from the shop mechanics in it.
"Hold that flashlight still...." I just reverted back to a scared 6 year old boy sitting under a '73 Dodge Dart.
The little engineer is well on his way to success, making messes that are hard to put back together already! Thanks for sharing!
Your videos always brighten my day. Even if it's dark outside. Thanks
8:51 ... Been watching AvE for many years and have had many a chuckle. Several things over the years have been said that reminded me of my father(passed '07 and I know would have loved the no BS of this channel) But this comment, as I'm sure did with many, made me think, remember and laugh!!! "Happy memories" indeed! Thank you!
and 9:26 ... LOL!!!
That "I'll help you" at the end was preceded by the briefest of pauses, and delivered with a subtle tone of voice that I recognise. It's the old brainbox calculating the effectiveness of teaching the lad he has to tidy up after himself, or "helping" so you know it'll be done properly.
This spot on!
I would check voltage drop across that rocker switch. Those rockers are always failing on us.
Check with a lamp as that 3 volts could well be a ghost voltage, the number of times I have seen that when testing with a digital meter, why they invented low z on some meters. If ghost voltage it is most likely a fuse or relay.
When I see a Deutsch connector on a solenoid, I think PWM. Is the confuser actually supplying 12v at 40% duty and the multi meter is doing math? Either way, supplying an actual load to the circuit is a good recommendation.
Ah that glorious trip down memory alley. I may be wrong but its since dads stopped fixing things and roaring at the wee torchbearers that the world went insane.
Speaking of the Mystery Machine, did y'all hear that it's been a Subaru Outback this entire time?!
Nice! That got a LOL.
Where they found to be vaping while drifting in the Costco parking lot?
It is important to note that at Deere we use a "smart" 4wd which only engages when it feels it needs to. That means that if you put it all four wheels in the air, only two will turn.
"by myself? - I'll help you" because otherwise the outcome might be sub optimal
Ah, memories.
My dad held the light for me the other day. His form was perfect.
This is precisely why I bought a beater nissan frontier instead of a side-by-side. :-D
Can get a lot more firewood in the truck too.
Many of these electronic 4WD systems won't engage the front diff until there is wheel slip sensed on the rear wheels. You might want to check it out by driving it again on loose gravel to see if the front diff engages when you mash the go fast pedal. The solenoid is probably controlled by the ECU.
See the John Deere tech's advice above...about the same!
Judging from the parts, this is Fiat 500, not a piece of farm equipment.
This is why I bought a Honda Pioneer for a redneck golf cart and not a Deere John.
‘Local comedic miner mechanic stricken with a new variant of Hantavirus now dubbed the Axeljobvirus, more at 11.’
The first time you yelled about holding the light still, I jumped, literally.
Took me back in time about 54 years.
Thanks, I think or firetruck you, maybe.
It's possible the common grounding point where the negative side of that solenoid plug ties off at is corroded or just plain old loose from vibration. That's why you're not getting a full 12v across that plug. It'd be interesting to see what the voltage was while referencing directly to the battery neg terminal.
I second the grounding issue. I had really strange trailer light problems on the RV this summer. Measured 6V instead of 12 at the trailer connector, both directionals came on for left turn, behavior changed when lights were on, real hair puller. RV tech in Dawson Creek heard my list of symptoms, finished his coffee, came out and added a ground wire from the directional light to frame ground and everything started working.
Just Ohm out the line from the return side of the connector to chassis. If not 0 then find out where the problem is from there. Might need to do the same on the hot side. But on the hot side it's probably best to unhook the battery to save your meter.
"it looks blurry because it is"
Truer words have ne'er been spoken.
Integrated power management is the bane of my existence
Just curious did you check the switch. John deere has a problem with rocker switches
SON! Put the light where I'm working not where you're looking!
😂
You must have known my old pops
You forgot the driving rain, stabbing wind and to start work on it at 3 in the morning!!
I ask the same question after a hard day in the shop too Brother Bear. Unfortunately, I am the only one working in the shop, so yes I do have to clean it up, and all by myself. Fortunately, I am also the only one who has to wade through the junk and dig through piles of tools I was too "busy" to put away. I could put that healing bench to shame some days.
Same here, except I can barely get in my workshop 🤔 detritus, tools and bits everywhere 🤣
Check derr switch I tells ya, corrosion on the pins will do this and as others have suggested check the earth pin to the battery for le resistance.
Side note, the diff lock locks the axles and the power divider/transfer case is what gives you 4wd. I got a little confuser with some of the double dutch.
3ish VDC can be either one of two things. Bad ground (high probability. Check to known good/battery ground) or a case of the green crusties/bad pin crimp etc on the positive side. Use the Schwartz!
I flinched when you yelled at me about the flashlight..😂🤣
The front axle only engages when the ecm detects slip. Spin the back wheels likely will work fine.
the last 3 words of this video define the man.
I used to drive these at work. Expensive vehicles. Did the job, but work "limited" the speed with bolts under the pedals, meaning we could never run them even halfway open, caused some issues.
Those sort of 'fixes' just beg to be overridden.
"You can't hurt my feelings. I held the flashlight for my dad." - Paul Cox (Fabrats)
(Aooogah!) "Not that one." "Keep your Richard in a bad habit." I'll likely never work on any mechanical stuff again (getting old sucks...) but watching these videos is hilarious.
When all else fails bypass safety. Works every time.
My buddy has a Kawasaki Mule which runs great, but for some reason he's plastered it with John Deere stickers, he reckons it helps performance. I wonder if it works the other way around?
He's mistaken, it only increases the cost of repair parts.
You can"t hurt my feelings. I used to hold the flash light for my dad.
Flashlight holder.
Takes me right back.
Biggest problems I always had with JD's in service were always electrical. I cant imagine the engineer team for the side by side market is any better than there heavy equipment teams. Its gonna suck but that grass fire waiting to happen and the 3 volt drain is making think theres a shorted wire there.
I love it! You're hilarious and give me an education every time.
"I'll help you"
Best ending ever
B’eni Tabernacle!
I give you one job to do, HOLD IT STILL for Le Christ Sak’e ! Lol, oh the memories lol😅
Voltage drop test should figure this one out. With the circuit plugged back together and some back probing (no laughing at the back) with the system live you should have 12v (assuming it's a 12v circuit) on the live all the way from the fuse to the solenoid. As the solenoid is the only consumer on the circuit it should then read 0v after the solenoid. It it's reading 3v before the solenoid (again, the system needs to be fully connected) then 9v is been used to push through a point of resistance before the solenoid on the live side, if it's 3v after the solenoid then 3v is needed to push through a bad earth. Either way, the solenoid is getting starved of pixies but you'll know which side of the circuit to look at
That shaft needs a couple of strategically placed flats for those set screws to land on.
Holes. Always machine holes for set screws. You're setting it up on the mill anyway.
As a John Deere Engineering Supervisor, I've sent @Jackattack an application for employment. As he would be the only one on the team that can read, he will be moved up to a senior position over a group that I have hand selected for him! The small bearing was tested against a larger one and lost but its cheaper so we ran with it. Regards to Ms. Babydoll.
Nothing beats the old wheel mounted mechanical selection for 4wd.
Does that switch on the dash go direct to the solenoid? Or through the ECM? If straight to the solenoid, then I’d make sure the contacts in that switch are good.
Not sure how they do it in those miniature vehicles, but I'm wondering if it could be a grounding issue... Is it also 3v in the fuse box? Does the wiring from the solenoid run all the way back to the switch/fuse panel?
Hmmm. Good question. Weird voltages are often grounding issues... Maybe I'm too quick to blame the confuser.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 The 4wd switch still lights up. Seems to be the wire coming out of the switch, going to the solenoid.
@@njvw177 or the relay switching the solenoid.
In AC tools, when I find a funny voltage it's always a broken wire.
I couldn't agree more. You can test continuity from the solenoid connector, each side to ground, and each side to either the relay slot or switch. One of those will point you in the right direction. The other test, is again at the solenoid connector. Test both leads to ground for voltage. One ought to be zero -- test that side to battery +. Got 12volts? Then the opposite lead to ground WITH the 4x4 switch turned on. got 12volts? This will show you where to look next.
I had a similar problem with a forklift I bought. The reverse solenoid always had about 3V going through it. I could start it up and go forward no problem, but if I put it in reverse I couldn't go forward again without shutting it off. The 3V was enough to hold the solenoid when it was disengaged, so both the forward and reverse were open at the same time. It turned out it was getting power from the reverse lights, and with the solenoid coil acting as the other half of a voltage divider that was explaining the 3V. I didn't feel like chasing the wires all around, so I just wired the reverse solenoid directly into the reverse relay and it fixed it right up. Reverse lights even work.
That's Velma who fires up the Mystery Machine. Thelma is Louise's close friend...
You gave me ptsd about holding the light
Oh good, A Raiman Ray video.
Your videos, are the only thing guaranteed to make me laugh, just like that projectfarm dude with his ‘tism graphics, are able to engage me thoroughly. Thanks Man!
Nice to hear Little Dude chiming in. My daughter and I would love a Chickadee update. As it happens, the only videos she and I bond over these days are Chickadee Engineering or Beavis and Butthead.
You did better than I would have. I'd have lit the thing on fire and cried arson to the insurance company.
Though with things the way they are today the insurance company would say they don't cover mostly peaceful protests.
Might be so obvious that you already tried it... But did you try to engage it with it running? Maybe it will only energize while running or at least on position.
Not privy to John Deere stuff personally but worth a try.
Green machine with high gears and a [heated?] hot box. I've never thought so highly of a John.
Sure reminded me of my boat after its been sat for a month. Ground goes south, voltages are puny.... 3 - 4 volts until suddenly.... full voltage again - lights come on, switches work, etc.
Much like your jack stand paint, the friction dangles are structural
Vehicle brain boxes usually create more problems than they solve. And they make trouble shooting twice as hard. However, I would probably check the ground first.
And if it's still a brain box problem, bypass it and put a relay after the switch straight to the solenoid.
Absolutely fascinating. I enjoy your video entries so much that I refuse to skip any of the commercials. Of course that’s usually the time I get up to run for another cup of coffee.😂
Always enjoy following along thanks for sharing your daily life 😀 and stories of keeping equipment verking 😂🤣👍 good information is key .... some models may vary not necessarily as seen in picture!